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Most national parks have an entry fee, but not these. And they鈥檙e all awesome places to visit.

The post Entry to These 20 National Parks Won鈥檛 Cost You a Dime appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Entry to These 20 National Parks Won鈥檛 Cost You a Dime

Many of America鈥檚 63 national parks charge an entrance fee, usually $30-$35 per vehicle or $15 if you鈥檙e walking or on a bike. Or you can get an for just $80. The fee covers you for seven days, and the money goes to a good cause: according to the NPS, 80 percent is used within the park, helping to improve trails, campsites, and roads, and 20 percent goes to other park sites. And there are six or so .

You can also have a national-park experience for free another way, by visiting one of the 20 national parks that don鈥檛 charge an entrance fee ever. Come and go as you please without dropping a dime. Many of them are among our least-visited national parks, which means you might have these landscapes to yourself.

Looking for more great travel intel? Sign up for 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 .

These are the 20 national parks that are free to visit every day. If you’re wondering whether these are good ones, they鈥檙e not鈥攖hey鈥檙e great ones.

1. Biscayne National Park, Florida

scuba diver, coral and fish, Biscayne National Park
Biscayne National Park, as viewed from below the surface. You can see reefs and shipwrecks, and the park contains 600 species of fish. (Photo: Courtesy Shaun Wolfe/NPS)

A coastal park located in south Florida where the mainland transitions to the Keys, Biscayne National Park is a collection of islands, mangroves, coral reefs, and open water that鈥檚 largely inaccessible except by boat. While entering the park doesn鈥檛 cost a thing, if you鈥檙e bringing a boat and want to anchor at certain areas, expect a $25 docking fee on weekends and holidays.

Best Time to Visit: Summer is hot and buggy (with temps in the 90s and mosquitoes), and hurricanes are possible in the fall. Shoot for winter, when temps hover in the mid 70s and the storms and bugs are dormant.

boat on Biscayne Bay
NPS boat trawls along in Biscayne National Park, Florida. (Photo: Courtesy Matt Matt Johnson/NPS)

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Biscayne Bay is known for its shipwrecks, and the Mandalay, a schooner that sank in the 鈥60s, is one of the top sites, as the hull sits in shallow enough water to be seen by snorkelers as well as divers. This wreck is part of the which includes five others. Don鈥檛 want to spend your time underwater? Head to Boca Chita Key, also part of the park, a 32-acre island with camping ($25 a night, first-come, first-served), hiking, and a lighthouse. The half-mile trail that circumnavigates the small island leads to its beaches.

2. Channel Islands National Park, California

hikers on Santa Rosa, Channel Islands National Park, California
Hikers wind along a scenic route above the cliffs of Santa Rosa, Channel Islands National Park, California. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Channel Islands National Park encompasses five rugged islands in the Pacific Ocean about 30 miles off the coast of Los Angeles. If you ever wondered what Southern California would look like without the development and traffic, this is it. The park is full of remote beaches, steep cliffs, expansive meadows, and pristine forests.

Best Time to Visit: Summer, as the water and air temps are both in the 70s, a little cooler than most of Southern California but still warm, so you can make the most of those beaches scattered throughout the park.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: I hit Channel Islands last summer as part of a seven-day adventure cruise, but the easiest way (compared to arriving via seaplane or private boat) to reach the park is by ferry, with (day trips from $96). Get dropped off on Santa Rosa Island and hike the 12-mile out-and-back to Skunk Point, a prominent peninsula with sand dunes and cliffs jutting into the Pacific. You鈥檒l pass rare Torrey pines, a gnarled-looking, wind-twisted type of tree only found on the Channel Islands and in La Jolla on the mainland, and have copious views of the ocean and island along the way.

Or book a sea-kayaking tour with and paddle to sea caves and gaze at natural rock arches (from $145 per person).

3. Congaree National Park, South Carolina

raised boardwalk Congaree National Park
The Boardwalk Loop Trail at Congaree National Park, South Carolina, amid cypress trees and floodplain waters (Photo: Mark C. Stevens/Getty)

You could say Congaree National Park is a swamp, and you wouldn鈥檛 be wrong, but the word doesn鈥檛 do the place justice. The 26,692-acre Congaree holds the largest intact old-growth bottom-wood forest in the South, boasting trophy-sized loblolly pines and cypress that rise straight from the water. The same forest has one of the tallest canopies in the eastern United States, with an average tree height of more than 100 feet.

Best Time to Visit: Avoid summer because of the sweltering heat and bugs. Winter and spring are fine, but you might as well show up in the fall when the weather is perfect, the rivers are full from seasonal rains, and the hardwoods, like tupelos and sweet gums, are popping with color.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Most of the fun in Congaree is water-based, so bring a canoe or paddle board and slowly make your way through the , a 15-mile marked 鈥減ath鈥 that winds through old-growth cypress. The current is mellow enough to paddle up or downstream, so you don鈥檛 need a shuttle.

4. Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Ohio

Cuyahoga Valley National Park Towpath, Cuyahoga Valley National Park
Friends walk the Canal Towpath, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Ohio, to the backdrop of gorgeous autumn colors. (Photo: Courtesy Victoria Stauffenberg/NPS)

An oasis of public land sandwiched between the bustling cities of Cleveland and Akron, Cuyahoga Valley holds 33,000 acres of forest and historic farmland surrounding the Cuyahoga River. What the park lacks in towering peaks or grand vistas, it makes up for in waterways, waterfalls, and cultural significance; you can ride your bike beside the Ohio and Erie Canal, which connected the Ohio River with Lake Erie, key to the country鈥檚 western expansion during the early 1800s.

Best Time to Visit: It鈥檚 a four-season park (although winters can be cold and snowy), and I could make an argument for every season. Fall brings bright foliage, and spring is mild and uncrowded, but show up in summer and you can take advantage of the many farmers鈥 markets in and around the park. The Cuyahoga Valley is still a very active agricultural hub of the Midwest.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: You have to bike at least a section of the , a 100-mile crushed-gravel trail that follows the Ohio and Erie Canal. Roughly 20 miles of the Towpath sit inside the park, passing through small towns and meadows full of wildflowers, like trillium and bloodroot, with deer and foxes along the way.

5. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Arrigetch Peaks, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska.
Alpenglow in the remote and magnificent Arrigetch Peaks, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Want remote wilderness? Go to Alaska, then keep heading north into the Brooks Range, and you鈥檒l find Gates of the Arctic, a 13,000-square-mile expanse of mountains and river valleys north of the Arctic Circle. There are no roads in Gates of the Arctic, nor a visitor center or gift shop, nor even established trails. Just herds of caribou, the glow of the northern lights, and several federally designated Wild and Scenic Rivers winding through the tundra.

Best Time to Visit: Hands down, summer has the warmest temps, as well as rivers that are full from snowmelt and a landscape that comes alive as everything from wildflowers to grizzly bears makes the most of the sunshine. There鈥檚 plenty of that, too; you鈥檙e so far north, you can expect daylight for up to a month at a time in the summer.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Try, if you can, to see this park from the hull of a boat. Consider paddling the Noatak, a sinuous river that鈥檚 carved a broad valley through the Brooks Range. You鈥檇 plan for a 10-day canoe-camping trip, with mostly calm water and a few stretches of class II rapids on the 60-mile section inside the park. You鈥檒l float past meadows full of alpine sunflowers and snow buttercups, fish for arctic char, and keep an eye out for grizzlies, wolves, and Dall sheep ( from $8,900).

6. Gateway Arch National Park, Missouri

Gateway Arch and grounds at sunrise
Gateway Arch National Park, Missouri, commemorates St. Louis and Thomas Jefferson for their roles in the United States鈥 westward expansion, and Dred and Harriet Scott, enslaved persons who sued for their freedom in the Old Courthouse in 1946. (Photo: Courtesy Sue Ford/NPS)

Gateway Arch isn鈥檛 like other national parks on this list. It鈥檚 an urban park, located in St. Louis, that was originally set aside to commemorate the cultural significance of our country鈥檚 push westward. It鈥檚 only 91 acres, tucked into the banks of the Mississippi River, and has the 630-foot Gateway Arch as its centerpiece. Fun fact: this is the tallest arch in the U.S. Inside the park are five miles of paved trails for walking and running along the Mississippi.

Best Time to Visit: Show up in fall or spring, when the weather is mild and the crowds are minimal.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Really, ride the tram to the top of the arch. The journey takes you through the structure鈥檚 hollow legs and ends at a viewing platform with a panorama of the Mississippi River and its many bridges below. The only catch? The ride will cost you $19.

7. Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Wheeler Peak, Nevada
Wheeler Peak on the way up the Summit Trail, Great Basin National Park, Nevada. The Great Basin for which the park is named extends from the Sierra Nevada Range in California to parts of Utah and Oregon. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

It takes some effort to reach Great Basin National Park, in eastern Nevada roughly 285 miles north of Las Vegas, but once you鈥檙e there, you won鈥檛 need to contend with crowds. Only 140,000 people a year venture to Great Basin, compared to 14 million visitors for Great Smoky Mountains National Park听in 2023. Yet Great Basin has towering 13,000-foot peaks; groves of shimmering aspen as well as old-growth bristlecone pines, which are believed to be the oldest known tree species in the world; and a fascinating system of caves to explore.

Best Time to Visit: Much of the park can be inaccessible during winter, when the 12-mile Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive, which ascends from 6,700 to 10,180 feet in elevation, is unplowed but open to skiers and snowshoers, and there are various other winter closures. So going between late spring and early fall is your best bet. Late summer will give you the best chance for snow-free trails.


Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: The cave tours are popular, but I say hike to the top of 13,063-foot Wheeler Peak, where views of the Great Basin Desert, the only 鈥渃old鈥 desert in America鈥攖he precipitation comes from snow鈥攕tretch in every direction for 100 miles on a clear day. It鈥檚 a 6.1-mile that gains 3,000 feet, much of which is above tree line, so take it slowly if you鈥檙e coming from sea level. Interested in something milder? Hike the 2.7-mile , which brings you to the edges of Teresa and Stella Lakes, both pools surrounded by evergreens.

8. Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee

A woman hiker on summit of Mt. LeConte, Great Smoky Mountains National Park
A hiker takes in the view on a summer day from high on Mt. LeConte, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee. (Photo: Billy McDonald/Getty)

This is the most popular national park in the country, with, as said above, some 14 million visitors annually. Fortunately, there are 500,000 acres of mountains in Great Smoky Mountains National Park听for all those people to explore, with more than 900 miles of trail that access 6,000-foot peaks, pristine trout streams, and historic farming valleys.

Best Time to Visit: There鈥檚 no bad time to hit GSMNP. The foliage goes nuts come fall, winter can bring snow and solitude, and spring is budding with renewed life鈥ut I like summer in the Smokies. Sure, some parts of the park are crowded, but the temperatures are perfect for splashing in the waterfalls and swimming holes.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Most visitors stick to the scenic Newfound Gap Road and its short nature trails, but I recommend hiking the 11-mile out-and-back up to LeConte Lodge, a backcountry inn on top of the 6,000-foot peak of the same name. Some sections of the trail are so exposed you use cables for safety, and you鈥檒l pass through Alum Cave, a rock overhang with a long-range view into the park. If you can鈥檛 score overnight reservations at the lodge, purchase a sack lunch from the kitchen for a picnic in some quiet spot with a view before heading back down to the trailhead.

9. Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas

An aerial view shows Hot Springs Bathhouse Row, Hot Springs National Park, Garland County, Arkansas, in summer amid the region’s green hills. Video courtesy Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism

Forget rugged cliffs or backcountry lakes. Hot Springs National Park protects a small town that was built on top of thermal springs that attracted travelers for centuries before the area ever became a national park. Today, you鈥檒l find two brick bathhouses for soaking your weary muscles and public fountains where you can fill a jug with natural spring water for drinking.

Best Time to Visit: The weather in the park is generally mild, so it鈥檚 a popular destination year round, but winter feels like the right time to sit in a tub of hot water.

mountain biker smiles on Pullman Trail, Hot Springs National Park, Ouachita National Forest
If you want to get out of the water….A mountain biker has some fun on Pullman Trail, Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas. (Photo: Courtesy Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage and Tourism)

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Can relaxing be an adventure? Who cares? When in Hot Springs National Park, you sit in hot water. The Buckstaff Bathhouse has small private tubs, while the has a series of larger, Roman-style pools for group bathing as well. A man-made steam cave captures the radiant heat from the 143-degree water (from $25 per person). You can also hike the trails here and are welcome to bike on any of the paved roads and the Pullman Trail.

10.听 Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska

the rugged Mount Stellar, Alaska
Mount Steller, part of the Aleutian Range, looms over Hallo Bay, Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Katmai National Park is surely best known for its live bear cams, where you can watch massive brown bears fish for salmon from the comfort of your office chair. But this 4-million-acre park in Southern Alaska is more than just an internet sensation; it鈥檚 a playground of lakes, rivers, and mountains, with an active volcano.

Best Time to Visit: Show up in July when the temps approach 70, and the brown bears are actively hunting for fish.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Try to get a campsite or lodge room at the float-plane accessible (make reservations starting January 5, $18 per campsite per night) on the edge of Naknek Lake, and hike the 1.2-mile out and back to Brooks Falls, where the 辫补谤办鈥檚 most popular bear cam catches grizzlies poking around the water for salmon. Don鈥檛 worry, the hike ends at an overlook a safe distance from the action.

11. Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska

Three Hole Point, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
Water and mountains surround the aptly named Three Hole Point, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The heart of Kenai Fjords is the Harding Icefield, a 700-square-mile sheet of ice that has shaped Alaska鈥檚 Kenai Peninsula by leaving glaciers and carving fjords. Visitors to the park have 600,000 acres of fjords to paddle, many trails to hike, and innumerable icy crevices to explore, with 听options available.

Best Time to Visit: Technically, Kenai Fjords is open year round, but winters are cold and snowy, and the only way into the park is by fat bike, XC skis, or dogsled. Show up from June through August and the trails are open to hikers, the roads are clear, and wildlife is most visible, as animals actively look for food.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: This is your chance to explore a glacier in all its shrinking glory. A paved road leads to the edge of Exit Glacier, which forms the tail end of the Harding Icefield. From here a system of trails explores the valley carved by the glacier, offering a variety of views. Hike the 8.2-mile out-and-back , a strenuous climb through cottonwood forests and meadows, then above a tree line ridge that stops at the edge of the massive expanse of ice.

12. Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

Kobuk Valley is one of the least-visited units of the national-park system (just over 17,000 people made the trip in 2023), but that鈥檚 more a reflection of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 location north of the Arctic Circle than its landscape, which is a mix of rivers and sand dunes that are populated by a hell of a lot of caribou traveling along the Kobuk River. No roads lead into Kobuk Valley, so most visitors arrive via . The other option would be a very long paddle in.

Best Time to Visit: Shoot for June or July, when you鈥檒l enjoy nearly 24 hours of light every day, blooming wildflowers like the herbaceous locoweed, and temperatures in the mid 60s. Or show up in August when the caribou begin their migration through the park.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: With no established trails or campgrounds inside the park, you need to be self-sufficient. Most people show up to camp in the 25-square-mile Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, or paddle and fish for salmon and whitefish along the 61 miles of the Kobuk River within the 辫补谤办鈥檚 borders. Either way, keep an eye out for caribou, which look like lean reindeer.

13. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Three people above Turquoise Lake, Lake Clark
Laughs, snacks, and a rainbow above Turquoise Lake, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Alaska.听Zara Kanold-Tso sits in the foreground, with her parents, Judy Tso on the left and Patrick Kanold to the right. (Photo: Amy Cyr)

Much like Kobuk Valley, Lake Clark has no roads leading into the park and is typically accessed by small plane. But make the effort and you鈥檒l see 4 million acres of quintessential Alaskan terrain with 10,000-foot peaks, backcountry lakes, glaciers, and wild rivers, all about 100 miles southwest of Anchorage.

Best Time to Visit: It鈥檚 Alaska, so summer will give you the longest days and warmest weather of the year. The brown bears are active too, filling up on salmon running up the rivers, so it can be a once-in-a-lifetime thrill seeing them (from a safe distance).

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Catch a to Crescent Lake and spend your time on a boat, fishing for sockeye salmon, which fill the lake in July during their annual migration, or lake trout. Bring your binoculars too, as the lake is a hub for brown-bear activity during the summer.

14. Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky

flower-like formation in Mammoth Cave
See marvels like this delicate-looking gypsum flower, found in the New Discovery section of Mammoth Cave, Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky. (Photo: Courtesy homas DiGiovannangelo/NPS)

Most national parks wow you with what鈥檚 above ground, but Mammoth Cave鈥檚 secret sauce lies beneath the dirt; the park protects the largest cave system in the world, with more than 400 miles of mapped passages.

Best Time to Visit: Mammoth might be the truest year-round park in the system, as the temperature in the caves is a consistent 54 degrees through every season. But visit in the fall and the hardwoods above ground are bursting with color.

boating on Green River, Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky
Kayaks wait on a gravel bar along the Green River, Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky. (Photo: Courtesy Ashley Decker/NPS)

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: The landscape offers plenty to do above ground, from paddling the Green River to mountain biking the 辫补谤办鈥檚 20 miles of singletrack, but you鈥檙e here for the caves. The Historic Cave Tour is the classic introduction, a two-hour guided adventure that hits the biggest rooms and tight channels alike ($24 per person). Or if you鈥檙e feeling adventurous, sign up for a Wild Cave Tour and crawl through tight passages that lead to lesser-seen rooms over 5.5 miles of exploration ($79 per person).

15. National Park of American Samoa

Tutuila, Pola Islands, American Samoa
The Tutuila coastline, Pola Islands, National Park of American Samoa (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Looking for something remote and tropical? American Samoa is a collection of seven islands located 2,600 miles south of Hawaii. National Park of American Samoa protects pieces of four of those islands, boasting tropical rainforests, steep peaks, remote beaches, and access to the surrounding ocean and coral reefs.

Best Time to Visit: It鈥檚 warm year round in American Samoa, but winter can be rainy. The dry season runs from June to September, offering the best chances of good weather for hiking and clear water for snorkeling.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Tutuila, the largest island of Samoa, is loaded with hiking trails that lead through rainforests to dramatic viewpoints over the coast. If I ever get to go, I鈥檓 visiting Ofu Island, which has a remote shoreline with pink sand that has been called the most beautiful beach in the world. The is amazing too, as the water is clear, the coral reefs are close to shore and packed with colorful fish, and the area hosts more than 950 species of fish.

16. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, West Virginia

New River Gorge and famous bridge
The rafting, climbing, hiking, and biking are all primo at the New River Gorge, West Virginia. Here boaters glide beneath the bridges of the New. The higher one, at nearly a mile long, is the longest steel span in our hemisphere. (Photo: Jay Young/)

New River Gorge National Park packs an adventurous punch in its svelte 73,000 acres, protecting 53 miles of the class IV New River and the steep, rocky gorge around it. Rock climbing, mountain biking, whitewater rafting鈥ou can do it all inside this relatively small park.

Best Time to Visit: Summer brings the warmest weather for rafting, but if you鈥檙e looking to climb, show up in the fall when the humidity dissipates, temps drop, and the leaves pop.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: It鈥檚 hard to pick just one here, but rafting the New has to top the list. The river drops 750 feet inside the 辫补谤办鈥檚 boundaries, unraveling in a series of III-IV wave trains, drops, and big pillows. A number of outfitters , from half-day milder water options to two-day overnight adventures.

17. North Cascades National Park, Washington

Winchester Lookout, North Cascades National Park
The Winchester Mountain Lookout on Mount Baker provides a view of the Picket Range, one of the most rugged mountain chains in the continental U.S., in North Cascades National Park, Washington. (Photo: Javaris Johnson/ Snipezart)

North Cascades might be close enough to Seattle for a day trip, but this landscape is a world removed from the bustling city, with high alpine terrain full of evergreen forests, craggy peaks, backcountry lakes, and more than 300 glaciers鈥搕he largest collection in any park outside of Alaska.

Best Time to Visit: Late June to late September has the most user-friendly weather and the best chances for snow-free trails.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Take on , a steep 9.4-mile hike from the edge of Ross Lake that passes through meadows toward sweeping views from a historic lookout tower that Jack Kerouac once lived in while working as a fire scout. On the horizon are the craggy, fin-like Hozomeen Peak and a portion of the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.

18. Virgin Islands National Park, Virgin Islands

Saloman Beach, Virgin Islands National Park
Looking west from Saloman Bay beach, Virgin Islands National Park. This white-sand beach with its aqua waters is accessible only by trail. (Photo: Courtesy Anne Finney/NPS)

Protecting two-thirds of the island of St. John, Virgin Islands National Park is packed with beaches, lush mountains, and tropical rainforests. Visitors will split their time between water activities, lounging on beaches, and hiking through the hills.

Best Time to Visit: Summer can be hot and rainy and fall brings hurricanes, but winter in the Virgin Islands is delightful, with temps in the 80s and minimal rainfall.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: Explore Salomon and Honeymoon Bay, dueling white-sand beaches separated by a rocky point. Snorkelers have colonies of coral reefs teeming with tropical fish to explore. Or go for a swim in Brown Bay, from a beach that鈥檚 only accessible by boat or a 1.5-mile hike on Brown Bay Trail.

19. Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota

starlight and the aurora borealis, Voyageurs National Park
The northern lights dance and shimmer over Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota. (Photo: Courtesy Dimse/NPS)

Situated on the Canadian border in Northern Minnesota, the 218,055-acre Voyageurs National Park is known for its series of lakes interconnected by 60 miles of canoe trails. Moose and wolves thrive inside the park, which is also a good spot for seeing the northern lights.

Best Time to Visit: Visitor centers and tour operators open in June and the lakes are busiest in the summer, but September brings changing colors and fewer crowds. The season ends quickly, though, and October can feel more like winter than fall.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: People visit Voyageurs to canoe and fish the lakes for walleye and northern pike. The larger lakes can be busy with motorboat traffic, but the smaller interior lakes are linked by a series of marked canoe trails and backcountry campsites. Paddle the 13-mile Chain of Lakes trail, which traverses four small lakes on the Kabetogama Peninsula via small creeks and short portages. Each lake has a campsite, and the park service stages boats for use by those with camping .

20. Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

woman in helmet explores Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota.
A caver gazes upon stalactites in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

One of the oldest national parks in our system, established in 1903 by Theodore Roosevelt, the 33,000-acre Wind Cave protects a landscape in transition, where the Great Plains give way to the Black Hills. Above ground, the park boasts broad swaths of grassland occupied by herds of bison and elk, but underneath that bounty of wildlife are 143 miles of mapped cave passages.

Best time to Visit: Summer is hot and thunderstorms with hail are common, while winter brings snow and sub-freezing temps. Hit Wind Cave in the shoulder seasons (spring or fall) for mild weather and to see active wildlife.

Signature 国产吃瓜黑料: The only way to explore the caves is on a . The Natural Entrance tour is a good family-friendly option, as visitors experience the winding opening of the cave system before exploring some of the larger interior passages, known for walls that look like honeycombs. If you want more of an adventure, sign up for the Wild Cave tour, which will have you crawling through smaller, undeveloped passages deep down in the system ($17 per person).

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. Based in Asheville, North Carolina, he is fortunate enough to live within a few hours of three free national parks. He recently wrote about the best hikes in Joshua Tree National Park, his favorite mountain town, and the national park he chose as the most adventurous.

author photo graham averill
Graham Averill, author (Photo: Liz Averill)

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25 Easy, Scenic National-Park Hikes Under 5 Miles /adventure-travel/national-parks/easy-short-national-park-hikes/ Mon, 24 Jun 2024 11:00:35 +0000 /?p=2672300 25 Easy, Scenic National-Park Hikes Under 5 Miles

Panoramas, waterfalls, and other natural wonders await you on these quick, rewarding routes chosen by our national-parks expert

The post 25 Easy, Scenic National-Park Hikes Under 5 Miles appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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25 Easy, Scenic National-Park Hikes Under 5 Miles

Hiking in our national parks is high on the list of many visitors, and long trails don鈥檛 always equate to the best views. In fact, many short, scenic options are just as worthy.

I love a good short hike, and on my adventures to all 63 U.S. national parks, I discovered that you don鈥檛 always have to go big to get big views. Maybe you have young kids in tow or are simply seeking a mellow day in nature. So I鈥檝e compiled a list of my favorite short hikes in national parks, each of which is postcard-worthy. All distances mentioned are round-trip.

Acadia National Park, Maine

Trail name:

Distance: 2.1 miles

Groups of people enjoy a summer-sunset walk across the sandbar at low tide to Acadia National Park鈥檚 Bar Island.
A summer sunset walk across the sand bar at low tide to Acadia鈥檚 Bar Island (Photo: John Tlumacki/The Boston Globe/Getty Images)

I鈥檝e raved about the Bar Island Trail for 国产吃瓜黑料 before, naming it one of the best wheelchair-accessible hikes in the country. I still maintain that this gravel strip north of downtown Bar Harbor is one Acadia鈥檚 most unique hikes, because it鈥檚 an utterly accessible stroll that鈥檚 technically off-trail. Grab a , because the pathway trail is only water-free for 90 minutes before and after low tide, and say goodbye to those storybook cottages in favor of Bar Island鈥檚 rocky beaches.

Big Bend National Park, Texas

Trail name:

Distance: 听1.6 miles

A view of the Rio Grande as it wends through Santa Elena Canyon in Texas鈥檚 Big Bend National Park
The Rio Grande cuts through Santa Elena Canyon, whose limestone walls rise up to 1,500 feet. Bring your binoculars for a good birding outing; you might spot a nesting peregrine falcon. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

When I visited Big Bend鈥檚 Santa Elena Canyon in 2020, I rushed to get there just as the sun was setting, so I could watch that big fireball in the sky paint the limestone walls of the canyon in hushed, warm hues. But take your time driving the 30-mile to the trailhead, too. It鈥檚 home to the aptly named Mule Ears rock formations, as well as impressive Chihuahuan Desert vistas.

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Trail name:

Distance: 1.8 miles

The author holding hiking poles jokes like she's about to cartwheel into the huge canyon below Grand View Point in Canyonlands National Park.
One big step. It takes most hikers about 40 minutes to walk this out-and-back route. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Of all the trails I鈥檝e hiked on my three trips to Moab, Utah, this trek over to Grand View Point in Canyonlands has got to be the best low-effort, high-reward journey. Start from Grand View Point Overlook and, if you鈥檙e not afraid of heights and cliff edges, meander along tangerine-tinted cliffs on a relatively flat, 0.9-mile trail, with views stretching into a maw of the earth, where the Colorado and Green Rivers converge.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

Trail name:

Distance: 1.25 miles

Illuminated stalagtites and stalagmites are visible in the Big Room of Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico.
No hike on this list is as fantastical as the stalagtite- and stalagmite-filled Big Room Trail at this park. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

I couldn鈥檛 create a list of the best easy national-park hikes without including something from Carlsbad Caverns, one of the most family-friendly and wheelchair-accessible parks of the lot. This trail can be accessed via the visitor center鈥檚 elevator, which travels 750 feet into the belly of the earth, or the 1.25-mile Natural Entrance Trail (yes, you can take the elevator back up to ground level). Then get ready to marvel at thousands of stalactites and stalagmites, many of which resemble hanging jellyfish and posh chandeliers.

Crater Lake National Park, Oregon

Trail name:

Distance: 1.8 miles

The author sits atop Watchman Lookout, in Crater Lake National Park, with an incredible view of the entire lake.
Wheelchair- and kid-friendly, the trail to this lookout is accessible without much effort鈥攁bout 400 feet of elevation gain. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

July is my favorite month to summit 7,881-foot Watchman Peak, when the high-elevation wildflowers鈥攑urple lupine and bright fuchsia beardtongues鈥攁re in full bloom. Not only will you glean better views of Wizard Island as you climb, but from the top, you can check out a .

Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Trail name:

Distance: 2 miles

A section of the Savage River Loop, at Denali National Park and Preserve, heads toward the eponymous river. Sharp-tipped mountains are in the distance.
This flat, well-maintained trail takes a little more than an hour to complete. Expect to get your boots muddy and dress in layers, as it鈥檚 frequently windy. (Photo: Jay Yuan/Getty)

There aren鈥檛 many maintained trails in Denali (or Alaska, for that matter), but the Savage River Loop is an excellent choice if you鈥檙e on one of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 famous hop-on, hop-off green transit buses that run between the entrance and the deep interior. In summer, enjoy the verdant tundra and views of the Alaska Range鈥檚 foothills as you follow the rushing Savage upstream for a mile before turning around. Bring your bear spray if you鈥檙e hiking in Denali鈥搕his trail was closed to hikers when I visited in 2020, due to a surly mama bear.

Glacier National Park, Montana

Trail name:

Distance: 5 miles

Thin waterfalls drop down into Avalanche Lake, which is surrounded by green hills and brush. The lake is just five miles east of Glacier National Park's Lake Macdonald Lodge.
Avalanche Lake, almost too green to be believed. The trailhead is to this hike is only five miles from the 辫补谤办鈥檚 Lake Macdonald Lodge. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Avalanche Lake Trail is one of the most popular in Glacier鈥搃t鈥檚 shaded, has moderate elevation gain, and ends at a mirror-clear alpine lake, studded with waterfalls鈥攖he scene is like one from middle-earth. You can extend your trip into a six-mile journey if you stroll along the shoreline to escape the throngs at the turnaround point. Pro tip: if you plan to picnic at the lake, be sure to hide your food from crafty marmots out for a free lunch.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Trail name: South Kaibab Trail to

Distance: 1.8 miles

The panorama of the Grand Canyon from Ooh Ahh Point is a sight to behold in person.
The trail to this panorama is open year-round. Wear shoes with grippy soles to avoid slipping on the gravel. (Photo: Wirestock/Getty)

When I first laid eyes on Ooh Aah Point, I chuckled鈥攈ere was one of the most appropriate signposts for a view that I鈥檇 ever seen inside a national park. From this drop-dead gorgeous spot, located just 0.9 miles and 600 feet below the South Kaibab Trailhead, you鈥檒l be able to take in a mind-blowing assemblage of rust-red sandstone plateaus and mesas, stretching out as far as the eye can see. Feeling frisky? Extend your hike to (3.1 miles round-trip) for even more canyon magic.

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Trail name: (also known as String Lake Loop)

Distance: 3.6 miles

Two mountains lightly covered in snow reflect onto the waters of String Lake, Wyoming, in Grand Teton National Park.
Swimming and paddling on shallow String Lake are popular in the summertime. Deeper lakes lie just north of String if you want to portage your boat. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

For easy hikes in Grand Teton, I鈥檇 stay near the 辫补谤办鈥檚 shimmering , which boast impressive views of the immense, pointed mountains and but are home to trails that are relatively flat. This particular loop circumnavigates String Lake, with scene-stealing vistas of Rockchuck Peak and Mount Saint John along the way. Bring your SUP along and ply the lake鈥檚 cool waters after your jaunt.

Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Trail name:

Distance: 2.8 miles

The author stands beside a tall, ancient bristlecone pine at Great Basin National Park.
Trekking to an ancient tree is worth the effort. This one, the author discovered, is 3,200 years old. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

When I hiked this path with my partner in late May 2020, we ended up breaking trail in thigh-deep snow, but from June through September, this is an easy trek to many of the oldest trees on earth. Meditate among these gnarled beauties in the shadow of Wheeler Peak鈥攖he state鈥檚 second highest, at 13,065 feet鈥攁nd its myriad boulders. Want a longer variation? Continue along the same path to the Wheeler Peak Glacier for a 4.4-mile trip.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee

Trail name:

Distance: 2.6 miles

Hardwood trees begin to yellow along the Trillium Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
When fall begins to color the hardwood trees鈥 leaves in the park, this trail is transformed into world of brilliant foliage. (Photo: Louise Heusinkveld/Getty)

Beat the heat in America鈥檚 most-visited national park on this shaded stroll to a cascading waterfall, bookended by mossy boulders. You鈥檒l likely spot salamanders near the cool creek as you stroll through an old-growth hemlock forest and end up at the 25-foot-high Grotto Falls. Dip your feet into the refreshing water before turning back the way you came.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii Island

Trail name:

Distance: 2.9 miles

A couple stands in the twilight looking at the glow of Kilauea, on Hawaii Island.
Kilauea last erupted on June 3, 2024. To check out a webcam of the site, visit the . (Photo: Courtesy Tor Johnson/Hawaii Tourism Authority)

It鈥檚 rare to walk through a tropical rainforest, check out hissing steam vents, and witness an active volcano all in a single trail, but Hawaii Volcanoes is not your average national park. For the best experience, park near the visitor center, hike this well-maintained path at sunset, and try to spot the otherworldly pink glow of lava from the as it gets dark.

Isle Royale National Park, Michigan

Trail name:

Distance: 4.3 miles

The author heads back from the end of Scoville Point on Isle Royale, Michigan.
En route to Scoville Point, seen here, you鈥檒l pass sites where Natives dug for copper hundreds of years ago. They used the metal for tools. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

If you鈥檝e only got one day in Isle Royale, this is the trail to take. Beginning in the popular Rock Harbor area, on the main island鈥檚 eastern edge, the trail travels in and out of boreal forest and across dark gray volcanic rocks until it reaches Scoville Point, with its sweeping views of Lake Superior. When you鈥檝e had enough of feeling like you鈥檙e standing at the edge of the known world, return via the north side of the peninsula for even better forest bathing.

Katmai National Park, Alaska

Trail name: Brooks Falls Trail

Distance: 2.4 miles

A brown bear nabs a spawning salmon at Brooks Falls in Alaska鈥檚 Katmai National Park.
The author snapped this shot at the Brooks Falls. The site sees the most tourists in July, but the bears feed on fish at the falls through October. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Yes, getting to Katmai is a long adventure that involves a floatplane from Anchorage. I鈥檝e had the distinct pleasure of visiting the park twice, and it blew my mind both times. For starters, it鈥檚 a fantastic place to watch salmon swimming upstream from July through September. This also means it鈥檚 one of the best places in the state to watch hungry grizzly bears fattening themselves up on the spawning fish. Stow your food at , then cross the Brooks River on an elevated boardwalk trail. Once you reach the falls, have that camera ready to snap photo after photo of the ornery beasts feeding.

Lassen Volcanic National Park, California

Trail name:

Distance: 3 miles

The landscape of Lassen National Park鈥檚 Bumpass Hell Trail is otherworldly, with white and yellow hills and a turquoise-colored pool.
The otherworldly landscape of Bumpass Hell, named after a European, Kendall Bumpass, who explored the area and accidentally stepped into a boiling spring. That leg had to be amputated. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Want to be wowed by sizzling hydrothermal features, but don鈥檛 want to travel all the way to Yellowstone? Lesser-known Bumpass Hell, apart from having an amazing name, is home to some seriously cool steam vents, scalding hot springs, and bubbling mud pots. After stretching your legs on the trail, take a dip in Lake Helen, just across Lassen National Park Highway, and crane your neck up at 10,457-foot-high Lassen Peak.

Mount Rainier National Park, Washington

Trail name:

Distance: 4.7 miles

Myrtle Falls, backed by a snowcapped Mount Rainer in summer.
You鈥檒l need a timed-entry reservation to enter the Paradise area of the park, and you should call ahead to make sure access to the falls is open. Snow can cover the trail well into June. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

The Paradise area is my favorite section of this gorgeous park, and while I trekked along this moderate hike, I saw a huge, fluffy mountain goat and had terrific views of Rainier鈥檚 serrated glaciers. 72-foot-tall Myrtle Falls is the real showstopper, though, because it鈥檚 perfectly framed by trees beneath Rainier. If you鈥檇 prefer an ever mellower day out, you can turn this trek into a simple stroll via the Golden Gate Trail.

New River Gorge National Park, West Virginia

Trail name:

Distance: 3.2 miles

The author stands atop Long West point and looks down over West Virginia鈥檚 New River gorge and a bride spanning two green hillsides.
This trail begins west of the gorge and heads upriver. You’ll gain 344 feet elevation before hitting the lookout point. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Though New River Gorge is perhaps best known for its rock climbing and whitewater rafting, I thoroughly enjoyed hiking its many forested trails when I visited in 2021. This out-and-back to Long Point meanders through a forest of spruce and hemlock before popping you out onto a rocky ledge with one of the best New River Bridge photo ops in the park.

Redwood National Park, California

Trail name:

Distance: 3.5 miles

The author sits on a bench gazing up at the towering redwoods found on the Tall Trees Trail at Redwood National Park.
At the end of an 800-foot descent, you’ll arrive at a grove of redwoods that tower to heights upward of 300 feet. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

You鈥檒l need to to hike this lollipop loop, which meanders through some of the tallest trees on the planet, but any hassle is well worth it. Drive down a washboard road just east of Orick for roughly 6 miles and park in the designated dirt lot before descending 700 feet to the Tall Trees Grove, keeping your eyes peeled for epic oyster mushrooms and sword ferns along the way. I鈥檇 plan on spending at least an hour quietly perusing these ancient redwoods. This is forest bathing at its finest.

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Trail name:

Distance: 5 miles

Sun sets over the Rockies as seen from the high-alpine tundra hills on the Ute Trail in Colorado鈥檚 Rocky Mountain National Park.
Alpine tundra is typical of the Ute Trail, which was used by the Ute and Arapaho tribes between hunting seasons. (Photo: Lightphoto/Getty)

Technically, the Ute Trail is an eight-mile round-trip hike, but the best thing about one-way hikes is that you can make them as short as your heart desires. Beginning at the Alpine Visitor Center, which sits at a lofty 11,796 feet, this trail winds along moderately graded tundra slopes and offers awesome views of the Never Summer Mountain Range. Hike it in the morning to avoid the dangerous afternoon lightning storms鈥攎y partner and I once had to jam to find shelter on a too thrilling post-lunch trek.

Sequoia National Park, California

Trail name:

Distance: 2.8 miles

A wooden sign marks the Congress Trail at California鈥檚 Sequoia National Park.
On this trail you will pass a group of giant trees named in 1922 as the Senate Group. There is also, fittingly, a cluster of trees named the House. (Photo: Blake Kent/Design Pics/Getty)

If you鈥檙e in Sequoia and planning on visiting the , which is the largest by volume on earth), I heartily recommend extending your forest-bathing stroll to include the Congress Trail. A mostly flat lollipop loop, it passes the enormous trees within the Giant Forest. Best of all? A few hundred feet past General Sherman, you鈥檒l escape the lion鈥檚 share of the crowds.

Virgin Islands National Park, St. John

Trail name:

Distance: 2.7 miles

The author walks Salomon Beach, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, while turquoise waters lap at her feet.
The hike’s payoff: a white-sand beach with gorgeous waters and nary another visitor in sight. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Though this trail starts from an unassuming trailhead, right behind the 辫补谤办鈥檚 Cruz Bay Visitor Center, it quickly redeems itself with incredible views of aquamarine water, following a brief climb to 160-foot-high Lind Point. From there, you鈥檒l curve through the lush, humid forest and switchback down, down, down to Salomon Beach, which has all the tropical beauty of nearby Honeymoon Beach鈥攂ut none of the crowds.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Trail name:

Distance: 3.5 miles

Rapids dot the Yellowstone River as it flows through Yellowstone National Park.
You can鈥檛 get this view from a car; you must hike in. It鈥檚 an easy passage, though, with about 250 feet of altitude gain. (Photo: Louis-Michel Desert/Getty)

After taking obligatory pictures of the and its roaring waterfall, I made a random left turn onto an uncrowded trail and quickly uncovered one of my favorite hikes in the National Park System. This trip out to Point Sublime showcases the churning Yellowstone River, hundreds of feet below, while following a forested edge of the canyon whose crimson-and-marigold-colored slopes plunge toward the current for the entirety of the hike.

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Trail name:

Distance: 1.5 miles

Castle Geyser at Yellowstone National Park spews water and air into the sky, creating a rainbow.
Castle Geyser creates a rainbow. It erupts approximately every 14 hours. According to the National Park Service, most of the world鈥檚 most active geysers can be found in the Upper Geyser Basin. (Photo: Westend61/Getty)

This is the trail that most people think of when they picture Yellowstone鈥檚 most famous attraction, Old Faithful, with that meandering boardwalk stretching far beyond it. And, to be honest, it鈥檚 pretty darn incredible in person. Cross the Firehole River, and check out one of the world鈥檚 largest assortments of hydrothermal features on this flat, wheelchair-accessible loop. Be sure to download the app, which offers info on the predicted eruption times. My personal favorite geyser is Castle, which gushes up to 75 feet high and for as long as 20 minutes.

Yosemite National Park, California

Trail name:

Distance: 4.4 miles

The author sits on a rocky overlook and turns her head up to the sun. Yosemite鈥漵 Illilouette Falls is right below her.
Fewer visitors know of this Yosemite waterfall, which is one of the reasons to take this hike. If you head there in early summer, the flow is heavier and wildflowers dot the trail. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Sure, this trek might not routinely crack the top ten听Yosemite trail listicles, but it鈥檚 the first place I take my friends who have never been to the park before. You鈥檒l set off from the iconic Glacier Point viewing area and then enjoy second-to-none panoramas of Half Dome, Liberty Cap, and 594-foot-high Nevada Fall for nearly the entirety of the hike. It鈥檚 also an ideal way to remove yourself from the Glacier Point parking-lot crowds and fully immerse yourself in the surrounds.

Zion National Park, Utah

Trail name:

Distance:听1 mile

Low clouds hover over the rock massifs and valley at Zion National Park, as seen from the end of the Canyon Overlook Trail.
Although the finale of this short trek is the incredible view, the trail itself is lovely, passing over slickrock and past ferns and a grotto. Parking nearby limited, and if you want to join the crowds at sunset, find a spot early. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Move over, Angel鈥檚 Landing. In terms of low-effort, high-reward hikes, this is easily the best one in Zion. Park near the Zion鈥揗ount Carmel Tunnel, on the less traveled eastern side of the park; from there this path climbs 163 feet, past vermillion layer-cake-like hoodoos and scrubby pin帽on pines. My favorite part is the turnaround point: you鈥檙e greeted with jaw-dropping views of the craggy Temples and Towers of the Virgin, sandstone monoliths that appear on park postcards. Keep your eyes peeled for bighorn sheep.

The author sitting on an edge of rock at Zion鈥檚 Canyon Overlook.
The author on the edge of things, always seeking an amazing outdoor experience听(Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Emily Pennington is a freelance writer based in Boulder, Colorado. Her book came out in 2023. This year she鈥檚 tackling loads of short hikes in the Rocky Mountains to get ready for a trip to remote East Greenland.

The post 25 Easy, Scenic National-Park Hikes Under 5 Miles appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The 10 Most Historical Trails in the U.S. That You Can Hike /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/historical-hiking-trails/ Thu, 07 Sep 2023 12:00:51 +0000 /?p=2644180 The 10 Most Historical Trails in the U.S. That You Can Hike

Feel the spirit of infamous explorers where the Donner Party was stranded in California's High Sierra or the remnants of the great Chacoan civilization in New Mexico on these incredible trails

The post The 10 Most Historical Trails in the U.S. That You Can Hike appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The 10 Most Historical Trails in the U.S. That You Can Hike

Some hikes seem to transport you to another world鈥攁nd others to an entirely different time. A peaceful place where you pause today may be where another once stood in defense, defeat, or determination.

I love seeking out places that connect me to people听who passed through long before. I鈥檝e hiked the Reef Bay Trail in the U.S. Virgin Islands and the Towpath Trail听in Ohio鈥攂oth described below鈥攁s well as the Battle Road Trail at Minute Man National Historic Park in Massachusetts. While many national historic trails in the United States retain physical evidence of long-ago travelers, including old foundations, artifacts such as copper kettles used for colonial sugar production, or visible wagon-wheel ruts, sometimes simply feeling the same earth under our feet helps connect us to another person鈥檚 journey years or centuries ago.

hiking on tow path
The author, originally from Ohio, always wanted to investigate the state’s historic Towpath, seen here.听(Photo: Aaron McKinney)

See if you feel the spirit or sadness of yore as you trace the footsteps of proud high chiefs or the victims of the Donner Party disaster, while walking these incredible historic trails. They鈥檙e also in beautiful places.

1. Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, Hawaii Island

Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail
Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, the 鈥渢rail by the sea鈥听(Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

Traverse past lava fields, ancient petroglyphs, and the landscapes of Kailua-Kona, where ruling chiefs once presided over settlements that held rituals for rain and fertility on this 175-mile corridor. The 鈥渢rail by the sea鈥 passes through four of听Hawaii Island鈥檚 six regions, connecting prime west-coast beaches while preserving natural and cultural components like caves and anchialine pools (enclosed water bodies with subterranean links to the sea) within lava rocks, where red shrimp and fresh water supported early communities. According to legend, one such pool (in a cave now closed to visitors)听sheltered the Hawaiian princess Popoalaea when she fled from her cruel husband.

Ala Loa
The main segment of the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail is Ala Loa, following along or near the coast between听Kealakekua and Keauhou. (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

The Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail follows the stunning white-sand coastline in the 16,451-acre parcel, which in July of 2022 became part of 听Volcanoes National Park ($30 per vehicle). Some parts of the trail cross through private lands, but you can always access it through any of (entrance fees vary).

Another heavenly beach along Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

Three rewarding, fairly flat hikes include the 2.8-mile round-trip Kiholo Bay walk, which takes you near sea turtles, over a black sand beach, and by an anchialine pool; the bumpy 1.8-mile portion from Spencer Beach Park past the white sands of Mau鈥檜mae Beach to Waiulaula Beach; and a pleasant through lava rock and soft sand at Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park.

2. Donner Party Trail, Truckee, California

Donner Peak Donner Pass
Hikers on beautiful Donner Peak in the Sierra, scene of a tragic chapter in American history听(Photo: Paul Hamill Photography)

Revisit a harrowing moment in American history on the moderate 6.2-mile (round trip) Historic Donner Pass Trail, which wends through flat, damp railroad tunnels before ascending an exposed loop path to mountaintop views. During the winter of 1846鈥47, emigrants en route from Springfield, Illinois, to California were stranded for months here in the Sierra by heavy snowfall. Forty-four of the 91-person Donner Party died, and it is generally accepted that others were forced into cannibalism to survive.

The disaster occurred in part because the group followed the harsher, less traveled Hastings Cutoff route, rather than the more traditional South Pass.

Mount Judah near Donner Pass
A hiker on Mount Judah, a mile southeast of Donner Pass in the Tahoe National Forest听(Photo: Paul Hamill Photography)

The train tunnels found on the trail today were built by Chinese immigrants in the 1860s, and within them are squeaky bats and gaps overlooking the valley below. Ambitious hikers can continue beyond the last tunnel onto a steep loop trail, which traverses loose, gravelly terrain to reach sweeping views over Donner Lake. This trail is best done in summer to avoid ice and snow, and a headlamp or flashlight will help you navigate the dark tunnels. Park across the road from the first tunnel entrance at Donner Ski Ranch on Donner Pass Road. You can also join the annual led by area guides. ( are other hikes in the area as well.)

3. Nez Perce Trail, Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana

Nez Perce Trail
A sign describing the forced Snake River crossing during high water听(Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

This 1,170-mile-long memorializes the bravery of the Nez Perce,听forced from their ancestral territory. In 1877, in a reversal of treaties, Chief Joseph was ordered to relocate his people from their homelands in Wallowa Valley, Oregon, to the Lapwai reservation in Idaho. The contingent, which included the elderly as well as children, was forced to cross the Snake River on May 31 during high spring runoff, and many of their livestock were lost.

Native Americans on horseback at commemoration for battle on Nez Perce National Historic Trail
A commemoration at the Big Hole National Battlefield near Wisdom, Montana, on the Nez Perce National Historic Trail (Photo: Courtesy Roger M. Peterson/U.S. Forest Service)

Hostilities broke out shortly after on the Salmon River, and Chief Joseph, initially seeking the protection of Crow allies to the east, fled with about 750 men, women, and children on a protracted route through Idaho, Wyoming, and Montana from late June to October, with the U.S. Army on their heels.

Woman hikes in Packer Meadow, the Nez Perce Historic Trail
Camas in bloom in Packer Meadow, Lolo Pass, Idaho, along the Nez Perce National Historic Trail. (Photo: Courtesy Roger M. Peterson/U.S. Forest Service)

The Army caught up to the Nez Perce at Bear Paw, Montana, where the Natives surrendered just 40 miles shy of sanctuary in Canada. Here Chief Joseph is believed听to have said the famous words, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.鈥

Nez Perce National Historic Trail
Along the Nez Perce National Historic Trail, near Florence, Montana (Photo: Courtesy Roger M Peterson/U.S. Forest Service)

The trail passes through in four states. Notable hikes include the moderate 1.25-mile loop trail around Bear Paw Battlefield; a paved 0.5-mile loop path past Idaho鈥檚 Heart of the Monster, the Nez Perce people鈥檚 sacred creation site; and the moderate five-mile (one-way) in Oregon鈥檚 site of the Snake River crossing. The trailhead is two miles north of Cow Creek bridge on Forest Road 4260.

4. Reef Bay Trail, Virgin Islands National Park, U.S. Virgin Islands

Ruins along Reef Bay Trail
Ruins from the Danish period in the 18th and 19th centuries are seen along the Reef Bay Trail. (Photo: Theresa McKinney)

I never knew how much one valley could encapsulate the history of a place until I hiked the moderate two-mile (one way) on the island of St. John, in Virgin Islands National Park. Beginning at the Centerline Road Trailhead, you鈥檒l descend 900 feet on a well-maintained, initially rocky trail through shady Reef Bay Valley, passing kapok trees, pinguin plants, and petroglyphs left behind by the pre-Columbian Taino (1,000-1,300 years ago to the mid 1400s). There are sugar-plantation ruins dating from the Danish occupation (1718 to 1917) and traces of post-emancipation life, such asthe Par Force plantation ruins, where from 1848 to the early 1900s, 25 newly freed African Americans continued to grow sugarcane, raise livestock, and tend coconut and lime trees despite a mass population exodus from the island.

Reef Bay sugar factory ruins
The remains of an old sugar factory, Reef Bay Trail (Photo: Theresa McKinney)

If you鈥檙e hiking on your own, turn onto the quarter-mile petroglyph spur trail on the right, about a half-mile from Reef Bay Beach, to see an ancient site where the Taino communed with their ancestors.

Reef Bay petroglyphs
Petroglyphs near the Reef Bay Trail (Photo: Theresa McKinney)

Although I鈥檇 made the four-mile round-trip to Reef Bay before, I recently skipped the uphill on the return by joining ($75 per person) just after a 2022 post-pandemic reboot. The tour bused our group to the trailhead and guided us down the path, at the shore听boating us back to our cars on The Sadie Sea, a 37-foot Lindsey Trawler with a smooth ride and a cheerful crew.

5. The Oregon Trail, Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon, and Washington

sunset Mt Jefferson, Three Sisters, Mount Bachelor
Sunset on Mount Jefferson, Three Sisters, and Mount Bachelor along the Oregon Trail (Photo: Courtesy U.S. Forest Service/Pacific Northwest Region)

Nostalgic millennials who played The Oregon Trail computer game during the 1990s can experience the real deal by exploring a section of the over 2,000 well-trodden miles of this , which spans six states heading west from Missouri. Witness astounding landscapes like Wyoming鈥檚 Devil鈥檚 Gate and 狈别产谤补蝉办补鈥檚 Chimney Rock, once important landmarks for hopeful emigrants journeying west on covered wagons from the 1830s.

Atim Enyenihi, left, and Cody Kaemmerlen at Idaho鈥檚 City of Rocks National Reserve. The California Trail, an offshoot of the Oregon Trail from the Raft River, 50 miles away, passed through here. (Photo: Nikki Smith/Pull Photography)

狈别产谤补蝉办补鈥檚 ($6 for residents; $12 for non-residents) offers views of miles of rugged prairie from atop the paved Windlass Hill Trail鈥檚 steep 0.5-mile (out-and-back) trek. Here too, you can see ruts created when pioneers鈥 locked wagon wheels scraped the earth while the occupants carefully navigated downhill to Ash Hollow鈥檚 freshwater spring, which hikers can reach by descending the easy 0.4-mile round-trip Ash Hollow Trail.

Names carved on rocks on Oregon and California trails
Many emigrants on the Oregon and California trails signed or carved their names on rocks to mark their journeys. The inscriptions in the photo remain visible on Camp Rock, City of Rocks, Idaho. The area was the homeland of Shoshone, Paiute, and their ancestors. (Photo: Nikki Smith/Pull Photography)

Additional simple hikes along the Oregon Trail include Wyoming鈥檚 Register Cliff (0.4 miles round trip) and Independence Rock (a 1.3-mile loop), where you can still see name carvings left by travelers heading west.

6. Towpath Trail, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Valley View, Ohio

historic hike towpath
A hiker walks along the canal waters past a stone bridge.听(Photo: Theresa McKinney)

This 98-mile path transports you to the 19th century, when the Ohio & Erie Canal opened up trade between the East Coast and Midwest, bringing prosperity to northeast Ohio (my home for 29 years), as well as the nation, through accessibility to domestic goods. Having always wondered what became of this 听I recently wandered down the Towpath Trail, a canal-side path once traversed by mules hauling cargo and people.

historic hikes Towpath Trail
The trailhead at Lock 38, by the visitors center in Cuyahoga Valley National Park (Photo: Theresa McKinney)

Starting at the Lock 38 Trailhead (a lock is a chamber that raises and lowers water levels for boats to pass), my husband and I walked the flat dirt path north along the marshy canal for 1.8 miles to reach the overgrown stone-wall remains of Lock 39. The Native American Heritage Walking Tour interpretive signs along the way described the Indigenous groups who once lived here鈥攆rom the Paleoindians (13,000 to 10,000 years ago) to the Whittlesy People (1,000 to 400 years ago)鈥攈unting big game, fishing, and growing maize and beans in Cuyahoga Valley. You can peruse exhibits at the wheelchair-friendly Canal Exploration Center, which once served as a tavern, store, and residence, and on summer weekends, the center holds lock demonstrations.

7. Chilkoot National Historic Trail, Alaska and British Columbia

Chilkoot Trail
The Beaver Ponds section of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail (Photo: Courtesy Sandra Snell-Dobert/National Park Service)

The 33-mile (one way) , designated as such in 2022, chronicles a former Tlingit trading route that transformed into a busy passage during the 1897鈥98 Klondike gold rush. The 16.5-mile U.S. portion travels from Dyea, Alaska, to and continues over the Canadian border to Lake Bennett, British Columbia.听En route you’ll see belongings鈥攊ncluding canvas boats, a steam boiler, and a gas-engine winch鈥攐f the former gold seekers.

Chilkoot Trail
Along the Chilkoot Trail, Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

Flooding in 2022 closed all but the first mile and a half on the U.S. side, but the Canadian segment of the trail remains open. Bring a buddy, pack bear spray, and be prepared for no cell service. The full hike from Dyea to Bennett, which is , Alaska, is expected to recommence in May 2024, so you can start planning now. Permits (see and are required for summer hiking, and in shoulder season you must still register for all campsites.

8. Pueblo Alto Trail, Nageezi, New Mexico

Pueblo Bonito from overlook
The great house of Pueblo Bonito as seen from a cliff on this backcountry loop in Chaco Culture National Historical Park (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

This moderate 5.1-mile in ($25 per vehicle) transports hikers back听a thousand years to a time when the thriving Chacoan civilization dominated Chaco Canyon. Between 850 and 1250 CE, roads emanated from this ceremonial, administrative, and cultural center, leading outward to 150 great houses (multistory buildings that were likely public spaces) in the region.

Pueblo Alto National Historic Trail
Chetro Ketl, a Cachoan great house and archeological site, as seen from an overlook on Pueblo Alto National Historic Trail (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

This trail, leaving from the Pueblo de Arroyo Parking Area, begins with a steep, exposed scramble before delivering sweeping mesa-top views over the San Juan Basin, and it links archeological sites such as Pueblo Alto, the impressive ninth-century, 600-room Pueblo Bonito great house, and the Chacoan steps. This remains a spiritual place for Chacoan descendants, including several Navajo clans. Because Chaco Culture National Historical Park is remote, with few amenities, bring plenty of water, dress for varying weather, and expect a bumpy ride in.

9. Unicoi Turnpike on the Trail of Tears, Coker Creek, Tennessee

The Trail of Tears National Historic Trail
A section of the Trail of Tears National Historic Trail (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

This 2.5-mile (one way) trail through traces part of an ancient pass that connected the Cherokee capital of Chota, located in what is now Vonore, Tennessee, to coastal Cherokee settlements before becoming a toll road called the Unicoi Turnpike in the early 19th century. In the 1820s, the discovery of gold near Coker Creek brought an influx of white prospectors to the Cherokee Nation, prompting the U.S. government to establish Fort Armistead in a half-hearted attempt to keep the interlopers from overrunning Cherokee lands. Ironically, this fort, which is currently , became a holding area for the Cherokee in 1838 after the Indian Removal Act of 1830 compelled them to leave their fertile lands on a forced journey west.

Trail of Tears Chattanooga
When displaced to Oklahoma, Cherokee detachments took the road by this structure (not open to the public, but significant for its history and existing architecture) in what is now Chattanooga. (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

Thus the Unicoi Turnpike became part of the Trail of Tears, a network of trails covering 5,000 miles and parts of nine states as Natives from the Southeast were displaced to present-day Oklahoma. Numbers vary, but according to the 10,000 died en route or shortly after the relocation; according to a doctor who accompanied the Cherokees estimates that 4,000, or one-fifth of them, were lost.

The free parking area and trailhead for the hikeable portion of this sit 2.9 miles southeast on County Route 40 from the Coker Creek Welcome Center.

10. Wanderer Memory Trail, Jekyll Island, Georgia

Jekyll Island Wanderer Memory Trail
Educational panels on the Jekyll Island Wanderer Memory Trail听depict historic events through the eyes of a young boy captured from Africa. (Photo: Courtesy Explore Georgia)

At Jekyll Island鈥檚 St. Andrews Beach Park, take this 0.5-mile family-friendly down a flat, gravel path (which is wheelchair-accessible) to learn about the history of the Wanderer, one of the last ships to smuggle enslaved Africans into the United States. The Wanderer was carrying about 400 captured people when it ran aground here on November 28, 1858. The trail鈥檚 eight exhibits take you on the ship鈥檚 perilous journey through the eyes of Umwalla, a captive African boy. This trail has received a Unesco Slave Route Project 鈥淪ite of Memory鈥 designation as a .

Wanderer Memory Trail
Walkers begin the Wanderer Memory Trail amid Spanish moss-covered trees beside the beach. (Photo: Courtesy Jekyll Island Authority)

Linger at the park to enjoy sunset views and dolphin sightings. provides free beachgoing wheelchair use on a first-come, first-served basis (call 912-635-2368 for reservations and delivery), and a ramp at St. Andrews offers access to hard-packed sand.

All vehicles entering the island must pay a $10 daily parking fee.

Wanderer Memory Trail
Generations explore the Wanderer Memory Trail together. (Photo: Courtesy Jekyll Island Authority)

Theresa McKinney lets her keen interest in history guide her travels, whether it鈥檚 navigating a new city like Copenhagen, Denmark, or exploring a new trail in Virgin Islands National Park.听

Theresa McKinney on Towpath Trail
The author by a lock on the Towpath Trail in Cuyahoga Valley National Park (Photo: Aaron McKinney)

For more by this author:

National Parks After Dark: 12 Best Things to Do

For more info on Gaia mapping:

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The 10 Most Beautiful Beaches in U.S. National Parks /adventure-travel/national-parks/national-park-beaches/ Mon, 10 Jul 2023 11:00:08 +0000 /?p=2638191 The 10 Most Beautiful Beaches in U.S. National Parks

From sea caves to marsh channels, wild campsites and sandy paths, these are the most beautiful beaches in U.S. national parks. Bring your snorkel, your surfboard, your kayak, or bare feet.

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The 10 Most Beautiful Beaches in U.S. National Parks

The beach was disorienting. There was just so much of it, spreading north and south as far as I could see: only sand, dunes, and ocean. No high-rise condos. No putt-putt courses. No boardwalk crammed with souvenir shops. It was just raw.

It was my first time in North Carolina’s Cape Hatteras National Seashore, and I was in awe over the wild nature of the land and seascape鈥攖he exact emotion that our national park system is supposed to induce.

wild ponies and surfers on assateague
Surfers in the water, wild ponies on the shore at Assateague Island, Maryland. (Photo: Lisa Zimmerman)

The park system protects many pristine beaches, long stretches of sand or secluded rocky coves just as awesome as a 14,000-foot mountain peak or 5,000-foot-deep canyon. And it鈥檚 summer, the perfect time to go to the beach. There鈥檚 no better place to do that than in a wild national park. Here are my top ten to visit.

1. Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin

sea caves lighthouse shoreline
Devils Island and the area’s signature sea caves (Photo: S. Palmer/NPS)

The sea caves of are truly stunning. Dozens of them, where Lake Superior has eaten holes in the orange and red sandstone cliffs, are scattered along the mainland of Wisconsin and the 21 islands that comprise this national lakeshore. But don鈥檛 ignore the beaches between these cliffs, which are just as spectacular. The great Meyers Beach, which is on the mainland strip of this park unit and accessible by car, is the easiest choice. But if you truly want wild sand, strike out for one of the isles that sit deeper in Lake Superior.

Several of those islands have beaches you can only reach by boat, and most are beautiful. But Lake Superior鈥檚 water temperature is notoriously cold, so my advice is to head to Julian Bay, on Stockton Island, where on sunny days a protected, shallow bay offers water temps in the 70s. The 1.5-mile-long beach wraps around the bay, giving you plenty of opportunity to find your own patch of sand with views that stretch across Lake Superior. Better yet, especially for kids, the sand 鈥渟ings鈥 when you brush it with your hand, because of the shape of the grains. It actually sounds like a seal barking.

woman kayak apostle islands
You can kayak to empty stretches of sand in Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Wisconsin (Photo: Per Breiehagen/Getty)

Though you can kayak to some of the islands in this park, Stockton is 14 miles from the mainland, so consider taking a water taxi or hopping on the from Bayfield, Wisconsin ($52). The boat will dock at Presque Isle Bay. Walk the .4-mile Julian Bay Trail to Julian Bay Beach and relax. You can bring camping gear, but the ferry runs morning and afternoon service so you could just spend the day.

Logistics: There鈥檚 no entrance fee to the park. Getting around requires aquatic transportation, though.

Stay the night: Stockton has a waterfront campground with 21 sites tucked into the pines of Presque Isle Bay. ($15 a night.) Make reservations at .

2. Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia

cumberland island georgia
The extensive beach on Cumberland Island, Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia (Photo: Thinkstock/Getty)

There鈥檚 a lot of human history to be discovered on , a 36,415-acre barrier island near the Georgia-Florida border that has been both the home of a freed-slave settlement and the resort mansions of the Carnegie family. Those slaves earned their freedom by fighting for the British in the War of 1812. Meanwhile, descendants of the Carnegies still retain rights to live on the island.

The natural beauty is a mix of marsh channels, live oak forest, and wide-open beaches. There are castle-like ruins to explore and听 also plenty of wildlife to keep an eye out for鈥攁lligators dominate the interior marshes, and a herd of feral horses, descendants of a pack left behind in the late 1800s, roam the island. Almost 10,000 acres of Cumberland is federally designated wilderness. The beach is extensive, running for 17 miles along the eastern edge of the island.

ruins cumberland island
Dungeness ruins from the 18th and 19th centuries, Cumberland Island National Seashore. (Photo: Education Images/Universal Images Group/Getty)

Crowds are scarce because the ferry from St. Marys can only bring a maximum of 300 people over on any given day, so it鈥檚 easy to find a slice of sand to yourself if you鈥檙e willing to hike. The majority of day trippers stick to Sea Camp Beach, on the southern end of the island, less than half a mile from the ferry drop. You can rent a bike ($16 a day) and ride Grand Avenue north, or hike along the beach until you find a spot with the right amount of solitude. The waves are generally too little to surf, but perfect for swimming, reading trashy novels, and taking naps.

Logistics: Catch a from St. Marys ($40 per person). Entrance fee is $15 per person.

Stay the Night: Cumberland Island has . Sea Camp is the most developed and easiest to reach, just a half mile from the ferry dock. It has 18 sites situated in a live oak forest with plenty of shade a quarter mile from Sea Camp Beach ($22 a night). Stafford Beach is your other developed option, with 10 sites and cold showers (which is fine鈥攊t’s hot here, so you wouldn’t want a warm shower), flush toilets, and potable water. It鈥檚 a 3.5-mile hike from the ferry dock, but puts you in the middle of the island with fewer crowds and quick access to the north side of Cumberland. ($12 a night.)

3. Olympic National Park, Washington

rialto beach washington
Sea stacks on a moody day at Rialto Beach, Olympic National Park, Washington (Photo: Javaris Johnson/ Snipezart)

Olympic National Park encompasses some of the most diverse terrain of any park in the country. Protecting nearly a million acres, the terrain varies from glaciated peaks to rocky beaches. There are 73 miles of coastline within the 辫补谤办鈥檚 boundaries, including the popular and picture-perfect Rialto and Kalaloch beaches.

beach at sunset
A sunset walk at one of the many beaches in Olympic National Park, which goes from sea level to rainforest to the Olympic Mountains. (Photo: Courtesy Kalaloch Lodge)

But if you want a wilder experience, hike beyond these vehicle-accessed destinations and deeper into the Olympic National Park鈥檚 Wilderness Coast. Just be prepared for an arduous hike: a mix of forested paths, boulder hopping, and steep, rope-assisted trails that climb and descend tall headlands. You also have to pay attention to the tides; high tides can close out the beach.

Ozette Ranger Station, in the middle of the Wilderness Coast, is the perfect starting point. From there, you can do short, three-mile boardwalk hikes to Cape Alava or Sand Point, or begin multi-day treks 20 miles south to Rialto Beach or . If you head north,听 you鈥檒l be inundated with tidepools full of starfish, tall cliffs with sweeping views, and more sea stacks rising from the surf than you can count.

Shi Shi itself offers two miles of hard-packed sand bookended by tall cliffs and sea stacks. It鈥檚 a popular spot, so don鈥檛 expect to have it to yourself, but you won鈥檛 find a better sunset on the West Coast. The waves are good too, and people surf here, but that means lugging your board on the hike.

Logistics: There鈥檚 a $30 entrance fee to enter Olympic. If you plan to hike the Wilderness Coast, you can arrange for a shuttle with .

surfer shi shi beach
A surfer scanning the waves before paddling out at Shi Shi Beach. (Photo: Jim Smithson/Getty)

Stay the Night: Get a wilderness ($8 per person per night) and you can camp in one of the traditional forested campsites adjacent to the beach or pitch a tent on the sand itself. You can build a fire on the beach below the high-tide line, but may only gather driftwood, not wood from the forest. Shi Shi Beach, 15 miles from the Ozette Ranger Station, is a popular destination for backpackers.

4. Virgin Islands National Park, Virgin Islands

tropical bay
Cinnamon Bay, St. John, Virgin Islands National Park (Photo: cdwheatley/Getty)

The U.S. Virgin Islands are a collection of three tropical keys in the Caribbean that range from the touristy (St. Thomas) to the culturally significant (St. Croix). Virgin Islands National Park protects more than 7,000 acres of the decidedly more rustic St. Johns, comprising roughly half of the island鈥檚 total footprint and offering a mix of lush, forested hiking trails and picture-perfect beaches.

Trunk Bay is the most famous, largely because of its natural beauty; the white sand forms a horseshoe around light blue water, islands rise from the sea just off the beach, and mountains frame the horizon. Yes, it鈥檚 crowded, but it鈥檚 worth it. The Underwater Snorkel Trail is also a great way to get acquainted with the unofficial sport of the Virgin Islands鈥攕taring at fish through goggles.

Snorkeling off St. Johns, the U.S. Virgin Islands (Photo: Wolfgang Kaehler/LightRocket/Getty)

But don鈥檛 spend all your time at Trunk Bay. Hit a few of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 beaches to get a taste of the variety of terrain. Brown Bay has a small spit of flat sand that鈥檚 only accessible by boat or trail, offering more solitude than Trunk Bay. Maho Bay is known for an abundance of sea turtles thanks to its healthy seagrass beds, and Honeymoon Bay has two beaches split by a rocky point where several species of coral offer habitat for colonies of colorful fish. I recommend visiting as many beaches as you can while you鈥檙e on the island, and bring goggles and a snorkel. The park protects roughly 5,000 acres of coral reefs and seagrass beds beneath the surface of the clear water.

Logistics: There鈥檚 no entrance fee to the park, but Trunk Bay charges a $5 amenity fee.

Stay the Night: The privately run operates within the national-park boundaries, complete with its own beach. You can bring your own tent, but we say opt for one of the campground鈥檚 eco-tents, which have queen beds, fans, and shaded decks. (Two-night minimum; $165 per night.)

5. Assateague Island National Seashore, Maryland

Pets are permitted in the Maryland part of the Assateague Island National Seashore on leash. Also, several nature trails are wheelchair accessible. (Photo: Lisa Zimmerman)

is a 32-mile-long barrier island that splits its zip codes between Maryland and Virginia, though most of the national seashore is located in Maryland. It is a wild expanse of land known for its maritime forests, salt marshes, and mellow interior bays.

The Atlantic side of the island is dominated by a primitive beach that stretches for miles between choppy surf and tall dunes. Oh, and Assateague also has a population of magnificent wild ponies. Legend has it that the equine are descendants of ponies that swam to shore from a sunken Spanish ship in the 1500s.

The national seashore is just a couple hundred miles from Washington, D.C., so it can be crowded, but the beach is gorgeous, and there鈥檚 a good chance you鈥檒l build a sand castle a couple hundred yards from a pony.

beach and bay assateague island
Both sides of the long strip that is Assateague Island, Maryland and Virginia. (Photo: Joseph Holihan/Unsplash)

Take a break from the beach and paddle the Sinepuxent Bay, a shallow sound on the inland side of the island, where you鈥檒l have a good chance of seeing the wild ponies as they graze on the tall grass that borders the water. has boat rentals and tours (rentals start at $20, tours start at $50). is a thing on the island. In Maryland, crabbing season runs from April 1 to December 31. Only keep crabs you鈥檙e planning to eat, and only if they鈥檙e at least five inches across.

Logistics: Entrance fee is $25. Get a to explore the Over Sand Vehicle (OSV) zone ($110, valid for one year), which is 11 miles long and offers your best chance of avoiding the crowds.

woman with surfboard
A woman at Assateague Island sets off carrying the essentials. (Photo: Lisa Zimmerman)

Stay the night: The many camping options here range from the developed campground of 鈥攁n 800-acre state park on the same island as the national seashore with 350 campsites ($27.50 a night)鈥攖o the primitive beach camping within the Bullpen area of the OSV zone ($200 for a year). Note that you must camp in a hard-sided vehicle with an approved waste-management system. Campfires are allowed on the beach below the high-tide line.

6. Redwood National Park, California

sea stacks at sunset
Sunset on the sea stacks at Wilson Creek Beach, False Klamath Cove in Redwood National Park California (Photo: benedek/Getty)

Redwood National Park is best known for protecting some of the world鈥檚 largest trees, which can rise to more than 350 feet tall. The park also encompasses 40 miles of northern California鈥檚 coast, where sandy beaches hide beneath bluffs holding old-growth spruce forest.

Gold Bluffs Beach makes for a good introduction to the coast, with miles of gray sand flanked by orange-colored cliffs. It鈥檚 a popular beach with easy road access, so you鈥檒l need to apply for a if you鈥檙e visiting between May 15 and Sept. 15, and pay a $12 day-use fee.

Gold Bluffs isn鈥檛 your only destination in Redwood National Park. The California Coastal Trail stretches for 70 miles through the national park and adjacent public lands, connecting a number of less crowded beaches. You can visit a few gems by hiking an portion of the CCT from False Klamath Cove south to the Klamath River. The trail mostly traverses the wooded hillside above the ocean, but short side spurs lead to secluded beaches without any road access.

One of the best is Hidden Beach, where a gray-sand cove is flanked by grass-covered hills, and massive rocks jut out of the Pacific surf. A pile of driftwood has collected at the high-water mark of the beach, and small boulders are sunk into the sand. The whole scene has a misty, moody vibe that feels more Pacific Northwest than California.

Logistics: No entrance fee required, but the parking lot at Gold Bluffs has a $12 day use fee.

Stay the Night: Grab a site at which sits within Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, and has 26 sites you can reserve up to six months in advance ($35 a night) with quick access to the beach below and the California Coastal Trail.

7. Cape Cod National Seashore, Massachusetts

cape cod
Cape Cod National Seashore has some of the most beautifil beaches in New England. (Photo: Denis Tangney Jr/Getty)

protects 40 miles of the coast where Massachusetts meets the Atlantic, defining the edge of New England, and is so beautiful that in the 1800s Henry David Thoreau wrote about this place: 鈥淎 man may stand there and put all America behind him.鈥 The seashore has no shortage of beaches, but Race Point, in Provincetown, offers an idyllic slice of the region.

This expanse isn鈥檛 rugged and dramatic like some of the West Coast鈥檚 beaches. Instead of tall cliffs and jagged sea stacks, you have soft sand and rolling sand dunes speckled with wispy grass. The beach itself is mellow, conducive to relaxation and the occasional nap. The sand next to the parking lot ($25 fee) in Provincetown can get crowded, but Race Point stretches for several miles around the tip of the Cape, so if you have the legs for it, keep walking until you find a quiet spot.

The thick grassland that separates the beach from the road and parking facilities gives you a more rustic vibe than a lot of more overdeveloped East Coast beaches. Spring is whale-migration season, so bring some binoculars and look for right and humpback whales cruising the channels off the coast.

Logistics: $25 entrance fee.

Stay the Night: There鈥檚 no camping within Cape Cod National Seashore, but the park has a that put you close to the 辫补谤办鈥檚 beaches (from $170 a night).

8. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida and Mississippi

florida beach aerial
Aerial view of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, showing Perdido Key near Pensacola, Florida. (Photo: Art Wager/Getty)

The beaches along the Gulf of Mexico are known for their sugar-white sand, like those found on , which protects pieces of the coast of Mississippi and Florida and islands within the Gulf. The national seashore hosts a mix of historic military forts, coastal forest, and pristine beaches.

The best sand of the lot is on Horn Island, an 8-mile-long, 1-mile-wide barrier island off the coast of Mississippi, protected as a federally-designated wilderness, and only accessible by boat. Horn is located seven miles off the coast of Mississippi, sitting in the Mississippi Sound of the Gulf of Mexico. No commercial ferries service the island, so you鈥檒l need your own boat (or to hire a private charter) to reach it.

A sandy path connects the two sides of the island. The beach on the south side, facing the Gulf, features soft sand flanked by small, grassy dunes. The interior of the island has warm lagoons and tall pine trees with tufts of green nettles at their tips, looking like giant bonsai trees. You鈥檒l find the occasional alligator on Horn, as well as nesting ospreys. Anglers wade into the shallow waters of the Gulf and cast for speckled trout and redfish, but mostly, you just soak in the deserted-island vibes.

sandy path and water on island
Follow this sandy trail from one side of Horn Island to the other. (Photo: NPS photo/Kiss)

Logistics: There鈥檚 no entrance fee to visit Horn Island, and you don鈥檛 need reservations to camp. But you do need a boat. There鈥檚 no regular ferry service to Horn, but you can find .

Stay the night: You鈥檙e allowed to on the beach here, as long as you stay off the dunes and any vegetation. There are no facilities and no drinking water, so bring everything you need on the boat. You can have a campfire below the high-tide line. No permits or reservations needed, but there is a 14-day maximum stay.

9. Channel Islands National Park, California

lookout from santa cruz island
A lookout from Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the eight islands in the Channel Islands archipelago and Channel Islands National Park, California (Photo: Priya Karkare/Unsplash)

If you ever wondered what California was like before all the people showed up, take a 20-mile boat ride out to Channel Islands National Park, a five-island archipelago with craggy coastlines, rugged mountains, and remote coves where you鈥檒l find more sea lions and seals than suntanned bodies. Santa Cruz Island is the largest within the national park, with a total of 77 miles of shoreline, and has regular ferry service. It also has the best beaches.

scuba diver plays with sea lions
Sea lions play in the surf grass above a scuba diver at Anacapa Island in Channel Islands National Park. (Photo: Douglas Klug/Getty)

Start by exploring and snorkeling in Scorpion Beach, a rocky patch of land between two cliffs with clear water and underwater kelp forests. If you want a more adventurous beach, hike four miles across the island from Scorpion Beach to Smuggler鈥檚 Cove Beach, a mix of dark sand and rock tucked into a protected cove surrounded by steep headlands. You might see some sailboats anchored off the beach, but probably won鈥檛 have to share the sand with anyone.

Regardless of the beach you choose, keep an eye out for gray, blue, and humpback whales frolicking in the water near the islands in the summer and fall. You can also sign up for a to explore the sea caves that punctuate the rocky coast ($186 per person).

Santa Rosa
Santa Rosa, part of Channel Islands National Park, California (Photo: Antonio Busiello/Getty)

Logistics: Entrance to the park is free. If you don鈥檛 have a boat, from Ventura, California. It鈥檚 a 20-mile cruise to Santa Cruz. (From $31)

Stay the Night: Santa Cruz has one developed campground, , with 31 sites and fresh water. It鈥檚 just a half-mile walk from the boat landing. You can make reservations six months in advance. ($15 per night.)

10. Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina

cape hatteras lighthouse
The classic Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina. Swim, surf, kayak, walk … nap. (Photo: wbritten/Getty)

stretches for 70 miles, protecting a string of barrier islands off the coast of North Carolina. The park is a mix of dune-flanked beaches, meandering channels, historic lighthouses, and small, thriving towns. This is the wild Outer Banks that has attracted visitors from the pirate Blackbeard, looking to lay low from the law in the 1700s, to surfers today seeking consistent East Coast barrels.

A single highway connects most of the Outer Banks with a series of bridges, with quality beaches along the entire length of this park. But Ocracoke Beach, on Ocracoke Island, is your destination, because it鈥檚 largely undeveloped, and it鈥檚 less crowded than most other beaches in the area; the island is isolated on the southern end of the national seashore. To reach it, you need your own boat or to catch a ferry ride from the mainland.

Development is centered around the harbor on the southern end of the island, complete with a lighthouse, while the rest of the spit is left mostly untouched. Ocracoke Beach is 16 miles of sand, tall dunes, and relentless surf. Bring a board, or ($25 a day), some fishing gear, and a 4WD vehicle; sections of the beach are open to offroad vehicles with a permit.

man kayaking cape hatteras north carolina
Kayaking at Nags Head, Cape Hatteras National Seashore, North Carolina听(Photo: Cavan Images/Getty)

Logistics: There鈥檚 no entrance fee to the park, but you need to catch a from either Cedar Island or Hatteras Island to reach Ocracoke ($15 one way). You can get an to drive on sections of Ocracoke Beach ($50 for a 10-day permit).

Stay the Night: Ocracoke Island has a (136 sites) with gravel tent pads situated just behind the dunes, so you can hear the waves crash as you drift to sleep in your tent. ($28 per night.)

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. He is constantly having an internal debate about whether it鈥檚 better to live at the beach or in the mountains. Right now, because it鈥檚 summer, the beach is winning.

 

author photo graham averill smiling on beach
The author, Graham Averill, right where he should be (Photo: Liz Averill)

 

 

 

 

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National Parks After Dark: 12 Best Things to Do /adventure-travel/national-parks/national-parks-after-dark/ Wed, 07 Jun 2023 10:00:19 +0000 /?p=2634462 National Parks After Dark: 12 Best Things to Do

Check out this host of outdoor nighttime activities, from scorpion searches and nature hikes and tours to star parties and bioluminescence watches. And our country has one of the few places on earth to see synchronous fireflies.

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National Parks After Dark: 12 Best Things to Do

In early June three years ago, waiting in line for a table at Flyers Bar and Grill on a marina in St. Croix, I looked on in amazement as a group of kayakers gathered at the waterfront for a tour. Watching them paddle off into the dusk, I wondered what was so interesting that people would skip dinner in exchange for insect bites and navigating barely visible waters. Bioluminescence was not yet a word in my vocabulary.

I鈥檝e since warmed right up to nighttime sights outdoors, having witnessed the Northern Lights dancing in Iceland or the Milky Way above a remote cabin in New Hampshire. While I had begun experimenting with astrophotography during a 2018 trip to Virgin Islands National Park, these once haphazard sessions have now become a full-fledged hobby.

full moon party
Full moon party, White Sands National Park, New Mexico (Photo: NPS)

If my growing fascination with the natural world after sundown has taught me anything, it鈥檚 that the night sky offers endless adventure. Our national and state parks and other organizations are working to protect dark skies and host events to engage people of all ages and abilities to see nighttime landscapes, nocturnal critters, and to stargaze and contemplate UFOs.

The park nighttime activities below offer curious minds a chance to explore moonlit paths and bays that glow.

1. Stargazing and UFOs

Trade an evening of Netflix for a chance to gaze at galaxies and be reminded that, like those stars above you, earth is just a tiny dot. The big question is: could it really be the only life-supporting dot?

Learn About the Cosmos鈥攁nd UFOs鈥攁t Joshua Tree National Park, California

night sky joshua tree
Night skies at Joshua Tree National Park (Photo: Lian Law/NPS)

There鈥檚 a lot to marvel about in Joshua Tree National Park, known for its lunar landscapes and energy vortices. Located in the Morongo Basin, a hotbed for claims of UFO sightings, and a certified International Dark Sky Park site, Joshua Tree regularly attracts stargazers and truth seekers. In fact, it鈥檚 the 2013 birthplace of the annual Contact in the Desert Conference, the 鈥淲oodstock of UFO conferences,鈥 which draws thousands of attendees.

Though the conference has since moved to Indian Wells, California, you can still seek signs of extraterrestrial life while in Joshua Tree by joining a 90-minute Stargazing and UFO Tour run by ($150) using Gen 3 military-grade night-vision binoculars. This technology delivers an even more captivating stargazing experience than is available to the naked eye, so you can see stars, nebulas, planets, and distant galaxies in a way that far surpasses what was observable even to our ancestors gazing at pitch-black skies a thousand years ago.

Attend a Star Party at Glacier National Park, Montana

star party
St. Mary Astronomy Program, Glacier National Park (Photo: NPS)

Far from the brightness of big cities, Glacier is a go-to destination for visitors who not only want to see the Milky Way but also the elusive northern lights, visible any time of year but especially September through April.听Also an International Dark Sky Park,听Glacier embraces its role as a steward of the night sky.听Events like are held every year to make visitors aware of the ecological and cultural importance of dark skies, offering a chance to gaze at our galaxies through high-powered telescopes while learning about the solar system from park rangers, astronomers, and members of the Big Sky Astronomy Club.

Star parties are held on select summer nights from 10 P.M. until midnight and cost $5 per vehicle (in addition to the park entrance fee). Unable to attend? See the above link for other astronomy programs in the park throughout the year.

stargazing
The night skies at Glacier National Park invite stargazing. (Photo: Jacob W. Frank/NPS)

2. Bioluminescence

If you don鈥檛 believe in magic, you鈥檝e never witnessed the blue-green glow of microorganisms in a dark saltwater bay.

Paddle a See-Through Kayak in the Salt River Bay, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

Enjoy one of nature鈥檚 most wondrous displays with a glass-bottom kayak tour of one of St. Croix鈥檚 bioluminescent bays.听Salt River Bay National Historic Site and Ecological Preserve, which for two millennia served as an entry point for Indigenous people and colonizers, is home to one of just seven full-time bioluminescent bays in the world.听 tour ($55) sets out at dusk and heads about three-quarters of a mile past the mangroves to Salt River Bay, where kayakers paddle around in amazement, watching as the water disturbance triggers a chemical reaction in plankton known as dinoflagellates, which light up beneath them. Children ages eight and up (who must be accompanied by an adult) are welcome to explore these rare ecosystems. No prior kayaking experience is necessary.

Paddle the Magical Waters of Castine Harbor, Maine

nighttime kayaking
Explore a bioluminescent bay near Acadia National Park, Maine. (Photo: Karen Francoeur/Castine Kayak 国产吃瓜黑料s)

Combine time in the quaint seaside town of Castine with an epic evening adventure exploring what local tour operator Castine Kayak 国产吃瓜黑料s refers to as a 鈥渇loating planetarium鈥濃攁 bioluminescent bay located just one hour from Acadia National Park. These waters鈥攍ocated between the Penobscot and Bagaduce waterways鈥攁re off the radar for most tourists, and offer an awe-inspiring glow, thanks to the nutrient-rich silt floor of Castine Harbor.

See a bioluminescent bay in Castine Harbor in Maine. (Photo: Karen Francoeur/Castine Kayak 国产吃瓜黑料s)

An hour after sundown, visitors can join on a tour ($90) that leaves from the harbor to watch these waters come to life. Children ages ten and older are welcome (and must be accompanied by an adult), and prior kayaking experience is recommended as tidal currents can be strong. For first-timers, the company offers a day-and-night kayak package ($155) from May through mid-October for those who would prefer to learn paddling basics in the daylight.

Note: To protect these fragile ecosystems for future generations, participants are asked to avoid the use of bug spray, deodorant, perfume, or sunscreen out of an abundance of caution, as they often contain harmful chemicals that kill the bioluminescence.

3. Night Hikes

Whether you鈥檙e interested in a moonlit stroll or one in the darkness of the new moon, exploring at night affords a different experience of landscape viewss.

Follow the Ram Head Trail in Virgin Islands National Park, St. John

Hike out to the Ram Head, Virgin Islands National Park, St. John. (Photo: Theresa McKinney)

This 2.3-mile out-and-back trail on a peninsula in Virgin Islands National Park covers mostly exposed terrain, with the sound of crashing waves. You鈥檒l have expansive views across sea and sky as you approach the Ram Head, a rocky abutment at the trail terminus, to watch the moonrise over the endless horizon. This hike is self-guided and does not require prior registration, so take extra precautions. The peninsula has some small rocky cliffs, so stay on the trail, bring a headlamp or flashlight, and consider a daytime familiarization hike.

Hike Under the Full Moon in White Sands National Park, New Mexico

moonrise white sands new mexico
Marveling at the moonrise, White Sands, New Mexico (NPS)

This monthly ranger-led hike shows off the 辫补谤办鈥檚 famous white sands illuminated under the light of the moon. Hikers cast shadows onto the bright landscape as they follow the 1.3-long, moderately difficult Dune Life Nature Trail loop, an adventure that can last up to two hours round trip. The path is initially flat but then ascends up the steep sand dunes鈥攁 boost in difficulty eased by listening to the guide鈥檚 tales about the park. Guests must , and ticket sales open up two months before each scheduled hike. Cost is $8 (or $4 for children under 15), not including the park-entry fee.

Hike Under the New Moon in the Valley of Fire, Nevada

Valley of Fire State Park offers monthly guided or self-guided new-moon hikes (see the guided here, although hikes may not be published until about a week ahead, or check on a rotating array of trails. Located an hour northeast of Las Vegas, the 辫补谤办鈥檚 red-rock landscapes are obscured at night, but the setting offers a reprieve from the bright lights of the Strip in exchange for a wander under the Milky Way. Hikes start at 6:30 P.M. and distances range from one to two and a half miles. These excursions are family-friendly and open to all ages. A red-light flashlight is suggested to safely navigate the trails without impairing your night vision, and expect to pay a $15 park fee ($10 for Nevada residents).

See Twilight in Shenandoah National Park, Virginia

This guided three-hour mountaintop amble through Shenandoah National Park鈥檚 Big Meadow sets out at the golden hour and ends under the stars. Watch the colors of sunset erupt across the sky as an expert guide identifies signs of wildlife and points out seasonal plants. Twilight hikes ($25) run from May through August and are scheduled in . Each covers about one mile round trip, with frequent stops for discussions of unique flora and fauna. All ages and abilities are welcome. Preregistration is required, and the fee does not include park admission.

Stay safe on nighttime hikes with Gaia GPS maps for and (recent excursions include Fire Wave and White Domes Loop).

4. Nighttime Nature Tours

Discover creatures that roam the night and other wonders that otherwise lie hidden.

Tour El Yunque Rainforest, Puerto Rico

While many visitors to the island are heading out for dinner and drinks to wrap the day, the nocturnal residents of the El Yunque Rainforest are only just starting up. For the richest wildlife experience here, visit in the evening, as 60 percent of its inhabitants are nocturnal. A guided evening walk with ($55) departs close to sunset and ends just after dark. With expert help, you鈥檒l be able to identify various species of tree frogs, glimpse screech owls, and see scorpions and tarantulas just before they scurry into the shadows. Expect to be out for two and a half hours and cover minimal ground (about three-quarters of a mile out-and-back).

Go Yooperlite Hunting in the听Upper Peninsula, Michigan

glowing rocks
What is a Yooperlite, and why do I want to see one? (Photo: Pure Michigan)

What in the world is a Yooperlite, and why should you care?听Two words: glowing rocks.听 Discovered by Erik Rintamaki in 2017, Yooperlites are syenite rocks rich in the fluorescent mineral sodalite, which causes them to glow neon shades of orange and yellow at night when subjected to UV light.听No two rocks are the same. Some are merely speckled with the luminescent mineral, while others display brilliant patterns or emit an all-over radiance.听Rintamaki offers on select dates from July through October along Lake Superior to hunt for Yooperlites, which you otherwise might overlook as eemingly ordinary gray rocks.

Watch Synchronous Fireflies at Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee and North Carolina

These magical summertime creatures come in a variety of species, some of which even have the ability to synchronize their flashing patterns. One of the few viewing spots on earth to observe synchronous fireflies is Great Smoky Mountains National Park in the Elkmont area near the Little River and Jakes Creek Trailheads, which are temporarily closed off to ordinary visitation. An annual is held in April for permits for people in 960 cars over eight nights to witness the only American species of synchronous firefly during its brief annual appearance. The lottery costs $1 and allows applicants to select two potential viewing dates. Those people selected are automatically charged $24 and assigned a specific evening to view the fireflies between late May and mid-June.

Search for Scorpions in Maricopa County, Arizona

scorpion
Scorpion under UV light (Photo: Arizona State Parks and Trails)

Scorpions are known as fearsome, venomous creatures to avoid. So it might come as a surprise that various parks around this county, which contains the state capital of Phoenix, hold summertime events where families can go looking for the pincered predators. Sound unsettling? Rest assured that scorpions are far more likely to run from humans than sting them, and that people are unlikely to die from scorpion venom.

To take part in these outings, join rangers at Lost Dutchman State Park, in Apache Junction, or McDowell Mountain Regional Park, in Fountain Hills, on select summer nights ($5).听Bring your own flashlight to illuminate the path, as well as a black light to spot the tiny scorpions scurrying through the dirt (the UV light gives them a fluorescent green glow).听To find an upcoming scorpion hunt, check the Lost Dutchman State Park , or head to the Maricopa County Regional Parks and select the Animals filter on the events calendar.

Author Bio: Always a lover of quiet and fresh evening air, Theresa McKinney (see ) has a growing appreciation for the night sky. In annual trips to Virgin Islands National Park, she has expanded her adventure repertoire from snorkeling and hiking to include late-night astrophotography sessions and pitch-black beach walks. On her second visit to Iceland, she proudly achieved her bucket-list goal of seeing the northern lights.

Theresa McKinney
The author, Theresa McKinney, a former accountant turned travel writer (Photo: Aaron McKinney)

 

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The Best Scenic View in Every National Park /adventure-travel/national-parks/best-view-in-every-national-park/ Tue, 23 May 2023 10:30:13 +0000 /?p=2631852 The Best Scenic View in Every National Park

As you鈥檙e visiting national parks this summer, don鈥檛 miss out on these spectacular outlooks, mountain summits, and lake vistas. We鈥檝e got the intel on how to reach them all.

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The Best Scenic View in Every National Park

There鈥檚 nothing better than rolling up to an incredible panorama in one of our storied national parks. The following views, of high-desert mesas, moss-cloaked redwoods, vast mountain ranges, and more, have something to stoke the inner wonder of just about everyone.

I鈥檝e visited every national park in America, and some the most awe-inspiring experiences in each are the stunning overlooks. So I鈥檝e selected a list of my favorite vistas in all 63 parks, with a keen eye for easy access and geological diversity. Of course, I threw in a couple of leg-busting treks and arm-churning paddles for those among us who like to sweat to earn their views, too.

Acadia National Park, Maine

Cadillac Mountain Summit

Sunrise at Cadillac Mountain
Sunrise atop Cadillac Mountain (Photo: Getty Images/Ultima_Gaina)

When a national park institutes a vehicle-reservation system, it can feel like a giant red flag to head elsewhere in search of solitude. Not so with Acadia鈥檚 famed Cadillac Mountain, which can get quite crowded. From October through early March, this granite dome receives the first rays of sun in the continental U.S., and view-seeking visitors can gaze out at a smattering of wooded islets dotting Frenchman Bay as the sky lights up in hues of rose and coral.

Best Way to Reach This View: Don a headlamp for the predawn pedal 3.5 miles up to the 1,530-foot summit. Or hike the 2.2-mile (one-way) Cadillac North Ridge Trail, with an elevation gain of approximately 1,100 feet. For a hiking route up the North Ridge Trail, check out .

Arches National Park, Utah

Fiery Furnace Overlook

The Fiery Furnace Overlook
The Fiery Furnace Overlook (Photo: Emily Pennington)

The next time you鈥檙e in Arches National Park, skip the masses at Delicate Arch and instead drive west to the labyrinth of striated red-rock pinnacles at Fiery Furnace, a scenic pullout that overlooks Utah鈥檚 La Sal Mountains. Serious hikers who want to get up close and personal with this vermillion jumble of rock need to nab a day-hiking permit ($10), or vie for the very popular ranger-guided tour ($16), bookable a week in advance.

Best Way to Reach This View: Motor the 14 miles north from the entrance station and follow the signs to the viewpoint. For a hiking route of the Fiery Furnace Loop鈥攁 valuable resource, as the Park Service warns visitors of the dangers of getting lost in the landscape鈥攃heck out .

Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Big Badlands Overlook

Big Badlands Overlook
Big Badlands Overlook (Photo: Emily Pennington)
Take a morning to enjoy a drive on Badlands Loop Road via the 辫补谤办鈥檚 northeast entrance and pull off at the first signed viewpoint, Big Badlands Overlook, for a sweeping panorama of the eastern portion of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 Wall Formation. Geology enthusiasts will marvel at the clay-colored stripes of the Oligocene-era Brule Formation and the charcoal gray of the Eocene-era Chadron Formation.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the town of Wall, take Highway 90 southeast for 20 miles, then turn south on Route 240 and continue for another five miles. The overlook is located just past the northeast entrance station.

Big Bend National Park, Texas

South Rim Viewpoint

Big Bend is a park that defies Texas landscape conventions, encompassing the verdant Chisos Mountains as they rise over 7,000 feet from the Chihuahuan Desert below, and the South Rim Trail is the best way to experience the majestic scenery. The southern tip of this 12.9-mile loop is where the viewpoint lies, with a vista of sprawling arid hilltops that spill into northern Mexico.

Best Way to Reach This View: Start at the Chisos Basin Visitor Center. At the fork, head either southwest toward Laguna Meadows or southeast toward the Pinnacles (the steeper pick). Expect an elevation gain of 3,500 feet and about six and a half hours to finish the entire thing. For a hiking route of the South Rim Trail, check out .

Biscayne Bay National Park, Florida

Boca Chita Key Lighthouse

One of the most scenic keys, Boca Chita is also one of the most interesting, home to a fascinating history of lavish parties thrown by wealthy entrepreneurs in the early 1900s. Legend has it that an elephant was once brought to the island for a wild soiree. These days the raucous festivities have died down, but the 65-foot lighthouse and its observation deck still offer a pretty swell view of shimmering Biscayne Bay, mangrove-lined lagoons, and the hazy Miami skyline.

Best Way to Reach This View: Book a guided boat trip with the Biscayne National Park Institute for an expert-led journey through the keys, with a stop at Boca Chita. Call in advance to find out whether a Park Service employee will be around to open the observation deck.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado

Painted Wall Overlook

Painted Wall Overlook
Painted Wall Overlook (Photo: Emily Pennington)

If you make it to Black Canyon and don鈥檛 want to dirty your hands on the 1,800-foot scramble down into the maw of its craggy cliffs, make a beeline for Painted Wall Overlook, which peers out at the tallest cliff in the state (a whopping 2,250 feet from river to rim). If you鈥檙e lucky, you might even spot a few intrepid climbers scaling the face of dark gneiss and rose-tinted pegmatite.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the South Rim Campground, drive or bike five miles north on Rim Drive Road (closed November through April) until you reach the parking lot for the overlook; from there it鈥檚 a five-minute walk.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Sunrise Point

With its many-layered view of crumbling Technicolor hoodoos and a singular limber pine tree with roots akimbo, Sunrise Point is a fantastic place to start a day in Bryce Canyon. From here, you鈥檙e at a fantastic jumping-off point for exploring the rust-colored sandstone of Bryce鈥檚 namesake amphitheater via the Queen鈥檚 Garden Trail.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the 辫补谤办鈥檚 visitor center, it鈥檚 just 1.2 miles to the Sunrise Point parking lot. The walk to the lookout is another half-mile farther and is both pet- and wheelchair-friendly.

Canyonlands National Park, Utah

Grand View Point

Grand View Point
Grand View Point (Photo: Getty Images/Jim Vallee)

There鈥檚 a little something for everyone in this area of the park (Island in the Sky), whether you鈥檙e simply craving thoughtful moments gazing at the panorama at Grand View Point, or want to immerse yourself even more amid the natural surrounds with a mile-long cliffside stroll to a second viewpoint (Grand View Point Overlook) with even more jaw-dropping scenery, followed by class-two scramble if you鈥檙e so inclined. Whichever you choose, you鈥檒l be wowed by the amber and crimson mesa tops of the Canyonlands as you gaze down at White Rim Road and the churning Colorado River.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the Island in the Sky Visitor Center, head 12 miles to the end of Grand View Point Road for the initial viewpoint. It鈥檚 an easy amble to the second viewpoint, though unpaved.

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

Panorama Point Overlook

Capitol Reef Panorama Point
Panorama Point (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Easily overlooked in favor of crowd-pleasing hikes to Chimney Rock and Cassidy Arch, Panorama Point is at its viewpoint best when the sun starts to set and the stars twinkle into being. The highlight is the cathedral-like red-rock towers that comprise the 辫补谤办鈥檚 famous Waterpocket Fold Formation, a 100-mile-long wrinkle in the earth鈥檚 crust.

Best Way to Reach This View: Panorama Point is a mere 2.5 miles west of the Capitol Reef Visitor Center. From its parking lot, it鈥檚 just 0.1 mile to the viewing area.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

Temple of the Sun

It鈥檚 tough to pick the most notable view in a cave-centric park that actor Will Rogers once called 鈥渢he Grand Canyon with a roof over it,鈥 but Carlsbad Cavern鈥檚 Temple of the Sun, with its mushroom-like stalagmite surrounded by thousands of spindly stalactites, takes the cake. Accessible via a ranger-led tour or a self-guided jaunt along the wheelchair-friendly Big Room Trail, these miraculous natural limestone sculptures are a bucket-list-worthy detour on any road trip.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the natural entrance, it鈥檚 1.25 descent to the Big Room via a paved pathway. Alternatively, you can drop deep into the cavern via an elevator, and then make our way to the Temple of the Sun.

Channel Islands National Park, California

Inspiration Point

Inspiration Point
Inspiration Point (Photo: Getty Images/benedek)

In spring, tiny Anacapa Island bursts into bloom, and Inspiration Point is the best place for photographers and flower aficionados to admire the display of brilliant orange poppies, pale island morning glories, and canary-yellow sunflowers. Because the point faces west, head up to see the sun dip into the Pacific.

Best Way to Reach This View: Book a day trip to the islands with Island Packers, keeping an eye out for migrating gray whales en route. Inspiration Point is located at the halfway point of its namesake 1.5 mile loop, a flat route that begins at the Anacapa Visitor Center.

Congaree National Park, South Carolina

Weston Lake Overlook

Years ago, we named Congaree鈥檚 Boardwalk Loop Trail one of the best wheelchair-accessible hikes in America, and Weston Lake Overlook is a phenomenal place to soak up the 辫补谤办鈥檚 shady expanse of old-growth hardwood forest. It鈥檚 also a great spot to birdwatch鈥搆eep your eyes peeled for the prothonotary warbler, American woodcock, and red-headed woodpecker.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the Sims Trail, branch off on the 4.4-mile Weston Lake Trail (marked by yellow blazes) and continue 2.4 miles along the wooden planks to the lookout.

Crater Lake National Park, Oregon

Watchman Overlook

Watchman Lookout
The author taking in the view at Watchman Lookout (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Featuring one of the most spectacular views of Wizard Island, a volcanic cinder cone at the western end of Crater Lake, Watchman Overlook and its eponymous observation station are must-see sites on any trip to this southern Oregon park. Look out for lilac-tinted phlox and delicate yellow buckwheat blossoms in the summertime. When you reach the summit, it’s everything you鈥檇 hope for: a 360-degree view of the deep sapphire tarn.

Best Way to Reach This View: Head out from the Watchman Overlook parking lot. You鈥檒l ascend 413 feet to the observation station and encounter a series of switchbacks near the top. The 1.6-mile out-and-back takes about an hour to complete.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Ohio

Brandywine Falls

Brandywine Falls
Brandywine Falls (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Tucked away between the urban centers of Cleveland and Akron, Cuyahoga Valley is a locally renowned national park full of lichen-splotched sandstone ledges, riverside biking paths, and picturesque waterfalls, of which Brandywine Falls is the most famous. Fall is a spectacular time to visit, when the 60-foot-tall cascade is surrounded by a fiery collage of foliage. Hikers who want more of an outing can stretch their legs on the 1.5-mile Brandywine Gorge Loop to take in bright red sugar maples against the smoke-hued ravine.

Best Way to Reach This View: Though there is a designated parking lot for the falls, it鈥檚 often full, so plan to arrive before 10 A.M. or after 4 P.M. for a spot. From there, the upper viewing point is just a few hundred feet away via a boardwalk trail.

Death Valley National Park, California and Nevada

Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point
The author at Zabriskie Point (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Catching the sunrise at Zabriskie Point is the stuff of photographers鈥 dreams. Undulating ripples of golden and umber badlands stretch out all the way to Badwater Basin, a staggering 282 feet below sea level. In the distance, 11,049-foot Telescope Peak (the highest in the park) rises like an apparition as the morning鈥檚 first rays paint the summit of Manly Beacon in honeyed tones.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the Furnace Creek Visitor Center, within the park, drive five miles south on Highway 190 to the viewpoint.

Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Wonder Lake

With only one byway through its 4,740,091-acre wilderness, Denali is a place where it pays to spend a little extra time exploring. Wonder Lake is about as close as you can get to the High One (as Native tribes refer to North America鈥檚 tallest peak) without donning a pack and making that arduous trek, and it鈥檚 the best spot to nab a photo of Denali reflected in a pool of mirror-clear water. Pro tip: Plan ahead and book a campsite at Wonder Lake Campground to enjoy dreamy morning vistas and evening ranger programs.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the park entrance, drive 85 miles west along the 92.5-mile-long Park Road.

Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida

Fort Jefferson Rooftop View

From atop Fort Jefferson
From atop Fort Jefferson (Photo: Emily Pennington)

An enormous structure built with 16 million bricks, Fort Jefferson was a key defensive structure during the Civil War, used to protect Union shipments heading to and from the Mississippi River. Nowadays it鈥檚 the defining feature of Dry Tortugas National Park. From its cannon-dotted rooftop, you can spot shallow reef systems and admire the sandy beaches and endless aquamarine ocean.

Best Way to Reach This View: Take the daily from Key West to Garden Key, home to Fort Jefferson; entrance to the fort is included in the price of your ferry ticket (from $200). Head up to the uppermost tier during a guided ranger tour or on your own.

Everglades National Park, Florida

Anhinga Trail Covered Observation Deck

In a mostly flat park full of sawgrass slough, slow-moving brackish water, and tangles of mangrove trees, choosing a memorable view in the Everglades is a tricky task. Wildlife is the real showstopper, and along the Anhinga Trail, animal-savvy guests have a high chance of spotting purple gallinules, great blue herons, nesting anhingas, and the 辫补谤办鈥檚 most notorious resident鈥攖he alligator. Take a break in the shaded observation deck (and don鈥檛 forget the binoculars).

Best Way to Reach This View: The 0.8-mile (round trip) paved Anhinga Trail starts and ends at the Royal Palm Visitor Center. It is wheelchair accessible.

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska

Aquarius Lake 1, Arrigetch Valley

Arrigetch Peaks
The Arrigetch Peaks are the author’s favorite mountains to hike in. (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Rising out of the treeless tundra, the towering granite fins of the Arrigetch Peaks, in northern Alaska, look more like gods than monoliths. It鈥檚 a view worthy of the arduous journey to get to these reaches of the park, an area sometimes called the Yosemite of Alaska. The experts at Alaska Alpine 国产吃瓜黑料s offer guided trips (from $6,000), or if you鈥檙e fine seeing the razor-sharp summits from a plane window, Brooks Range Aviation (from $785) can arrange flightseeing tours.

Best Way to Reach This View: Visitors headed to the Arrigetch Peaks will do so via bush plane, landing on a gravel riverbank. Then it鈥檚 an eight-mile hike to set up camp in the valley below the peaks.

Gateway Arch National Park, Missouri

Luther Ely Smith Square

Gateway Arch is a park rife with human history, from the once massive Native city of Cahokia to the famed Dred Scott court case, which hastened the Civil War when the Supreme Court judged that no Black people were entitled to citizenship. The best vantage point from which to take it all in is Luther Ely Smith Square, which, in addition to boasting a sky-high view of the iconic chrome arch, overlooks the historic Old Courthouse.

Best Way to Reach This View: The square, a downtown St. Louis greenspace, is located between the Old Courthouse and the Mississippi River.

Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska

Margerie Glacier

Flip through any traveler鈥檚 photos from Glacier Bay, and you鈥檙e likely to see snaps of the icy, serrated teeth of the Margerie Glacier, dramatically calving into the Tarr Inlet from the Fairweather Mountain Range. Stay on the lookout for harbor seals and playful sea otters on recently separated icebergs.

Best Way to Reach This View: Book a ($262.44) for the best access to this rapidly changing river of ice.

Glacier National Park, Montana

Swiftcurrent Lake

Swiftcurrent Lake
Swiftcurrent Lake (Photo: Getty Images/Naphat Photography)

The Many Glacier area of Glacier National Park is such a coveted road-trip stop that the Park Service instituted a new vehicle-reservation system for it this year. The most striking panorama of Grinnell Point, Mount Wilbur, and Angel Wing鈥攁ll visible from the 鈥攊s worth any extra entry-permit effort.

Best Way to Reach This View: Lace up your boots for an easy 2.7-mile hike that circumnavigates the lake. Better yet, book a room at Many Glacier Hotel so you鈥檒l have the view all to yourself when the day crowds disperse.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Desert View Point

Sure, Mather Point steals most of the attention when it comes to the Grand Canyon鈥檚 South Rim, but I prefer Desert View, near the 辫补谤办鈥檚 eastern boundary, for its peaceful campground and dearth of visitors. Plus, the site鈥檚 famous watchtower, designed by Parkitecture maven Mary Colter, was inspired by the Ancestral Puebloan peoples of the Colorado Plateau, and it makes a fantastic focal point when snapping photos of 鈥渢he big ditch.鈥

Best Way to Reach This View: For the most scenic route, head 23 miles east along Desert View Drive from Grand Canyon Village.

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Jenny Lake Overlook

Jenny Lake
Jenny Lake (Photo: Getty Images/Allen Parseghian)

Go early to skip the Grand Teton鈥檚 throngs and park at Jenny Lake Overlook to admire second-to-none views of craggy Cascade Canyon and the razor-like protrusions of igneous granite that rise sharply from its depths. From here, visitors can take in the sheer enormity of the Teton Crest, with outstanding photo ops of Mount Moran and Teewinot Mountain. If you鈥檙e up for a hike, try the seven-mile Jenny Lake Loop, which offers even more epic lake scenery, as well as potential sightings of moose and bald eagles.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the town of Moose, within the park, head nine miles north on Teton Park Road to the lake.

Great Basin National Park, Nevada

Mather Overlook

Mather Overlook
Mather Overlook (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Nearly every national park has a Mather Overlook, named after the first director of the National Park Service, and at Great Basin, in eastern Nevada, his namesake viewpoint offers a grand perspective of 13,000-foot Wheeler Peak, the second highest in the state. Flanked by ancient bristlecone pines, which can live up to 5,000 years, the mountain is split dramatically in two, with the breathtaking Wheeler Cirque crumbling into a sepia-stained bowl beneath the prominent summit.

Best Way to Reach This View: This is an overlook that can only be accessed between June and late October due to hazardous conditions that close roads in winter. From the eastern park entrance, head west along the 12-mile Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. A pullout for the overlook is about halfway.

Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

High Dune on First Ridge

Though it鈥檚 the most popular day-hiking objective at Great Sand Dunes, in southeastern Colorado, the trek up to High Dune is sure to leave even the most seasoned hiker huffing and puffing. With a lofty elevation of over 8,000 feet, and the effort required to plod uphill against the drag of sand, be prepared for burning calves and bring plenty of water for the 2.5-mile slog to the summit. The view from the top is truly spectacular, however, with awesome sights to the听 towering Sangre de Cristo Mountains鈥揾ome to ten fourteeners.

Best Way to Reach This View: There are no trails in the entire park, but you鈥檒l see the High Dune from the main parking lot. Cross Medano Creek and then start making your way up to the top, logging an elevation gain of 700 feet. For most hikers, getting up and back takes two to four hours.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina and Tennessee

Charlies Bunion

The final ascent on the Appalachian Trail to Charlies Bunion
The final ascent on the Appalachian Trail to Charlies Bunion (Photo: Getty Images/Wirestock)

The four-mile (one way) hike to Charlies Bunion is one of the most thrilling in Great Smoky Mountains, due to the sheer number of iconic sights along the way. You鈥檒l be wowed by rolling, verdant mountains and wend through northern hardwood forests and past rhododendron shrubs before topping out at 5,565 feet.

Best Way to Reach This View: Park at Newfound Gap, on the Tennessee鈥揘orth Carolina state line, then hitch a left onto the Appalachian Trail and proceed to the summit. For a hiking route up Charlies Bunion, check out .

Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas

Salt Basin Dunes

Salt Basin Dunes
Salt Basin Dunes (Photo: Getty Images/RobertWaltman)

Ask any ranger in Guadalupe Mountains National Park where to watch the sun set over the 鈥淭op of Texas,鈥 and they鈥檒l tell you the remote Salt Basin Dunes, in the 辫补谤办鈥檚 northwestern corner. Made of bright white gypsum, this sandy expanse showcases the unbelievable prominence of conifer-topped Guadalupe Peak, once a sprawling coral reef when the Delaware Sea covered a large swath of America roughly 275 million years ago.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the Pine Springs Visitor Center, it鈥檚 a 47-mile drive to the Salt Basin Dunes parking area; from here, hike a mile and a half to reach the actual dunes.

Haleakala National Park, Hawaii

Puu Ula Ula Summit

A colorful crater view from the summit of Haleakala
A colorful crater view from the summit of Haleakala (Photo: Getty Images/Pierre Leclerc Photography)

Much like Acadia鈥檚 Cadillac Mountain, you鈥檒l need a special timed reservation to take in the sunrise atop Haleakala鈥檚 10,023-foot summit (reservable up to 60 days in advance), but after 7 A.M., day-use visitors can enjoy the show as well. From this incredible vantage point鈥攖he highest on Maui鈥攜ou can enjoy top-down views of the huge, richly colored crater, as well as the Big Island if the weather鈥檚 clear.

Best Way to Reach This View: The drive to the top from the Summit District entrance takes up to three hours and sees a change in elevation of 3,000 feet, so get ready to rise early and be fully awake before you attempt the narrow, winding road.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii

Kilauea Overlook

If you鈥檙e in Hawaii and eager to see some lava, head for this park鈥檚 Kilauea Overlook, located near the southern end of the Big Island. A hike will allow you to take in the dramatic aftermath of the site鈥檚 2018 eruption and subsequent summit collapse, but if you鈥檇 rather not work up a sweat, park at the viewpoint鈥檚 lot at sunset and stand in awe of the otherworldly pink glow emanating from the bowels of the earth.

Best Way to Reach This View: Trek the flat, 2.5-mile (one way) Crater Rim Trail, which can be accessed from a handful of popular tourist spots along Crater Rim Drive.

Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas

Hot Springs Mountain Pavilion

The Hot Springs pavilion
The author at the Hot Springs pavilion (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Much of the joy of a visit to this national park is relaxing in the town鈥檚 historic Bathhouse Row. If, however, you鈥檙e willing to get in a bit of exercise on your spa-cation, there are some sincerely stellar views to be had of this quaint Ouachita Mountains community鈥攁nd the hike to this pavilion is at the top of my list. (Many also buy a ticket and ride a 216-foot elevator to the top of Hot Springs Tower for expansive vistas of the surrounding Diamond Lakes area after reaching the initial viewpoint.)

Best Way to Reach This View: Take in the stately architecture of thermal-bath palaces on the Grand Promenade, then ascend the 0.6-mile Peak Trail, just off the promenade, until you reach the pavilion, which faces south.

Indiana Dunes National Park, Indiana

Lake View Beach

Right next to the park鈥檚 Century of Progress Homes, a gaggle of experimental houses left over from the 1933 World鈥檚 Fair in Chicago, is Lake View Beach, which gazes out from the southern tip of Lake Michigan. On a fair-weather day, visitors can make out the right angles of the Windy City鈥檚 high-rises, but at sunset, the sky turns to breathtaking shades of fuchsia and the waves crashing along the sandy shore feel more like an ocean than a Great Lake.

Best Way to Reach This View: It鈥檚 55 miles from the center of Chicago to the town of Beverly Shores. Look for the parking area dedicated to the beach.

Isle Royale National Park, Michigan

Scoville Point

Scoville Point
The author hiking at Scoville Point (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Named some of the best 100 miles of trail in the entire national park system by , the day hike to Scoville Point showcases this region鈥檚 boreal forest at its best. Not only does the path run parallel to the shoreline for near constant views of Lake Superior, it also boasts some striking scenery. Hunt for moose munching among stands of balsam fir, and at the end of the trek, feast your eyes on rocky islets dotted with conifers, a trademark of Isle Royale鈥檚 archipelago.

Best Way to Reach This View: Though there鈥檚 more than one way to arrive at the point via the Stoll Memorial Trail and then the Scoville Point Trail, the easier (and shaded) way is to amble adjacent to Tobin Harbor to the tip of the peninsula.

Joshua Tree National Park, California

Keys View

Named after the Keys family, who built and maintained one of the most successful homesteads in Southern California鈥檚 arid Joshua Tree desert, Keys View is a thrilling destination for road-tripping travelers who want to feel as though they鈥檙e standing at the edge of the known universe. A 500-foot, fully paved loop allows guests to savor a vista of the Little San Bernardino Mountains, Coachella Valley, and Salton Sea.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the Joshua Tree National Park Visitor Center, drive 21 miles south to the terminus of Keys View Road.

Katmai National Park, Alaska

Brooks Falls

Brooks Falls Viewing Platform
The author at the Brooks Falls viewing platform (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Most travelers to Katmai National Park are there for one thing and one thing only鈥grizzly bear viewing鈥攁nd the boardwalk overlook at Brooks Falls is perhaps the best spot in the U.S. to watch these 700-pound mammals fish. You won鈥檛 be disappointed.

Best Way to Reach This View: Following a brief, ranger-led bear orientation, take the 1.2-mile (round trip) Brooks Falls Trail to a wooden platform overlooking a roaring waterfall, which, if you鈥檙e lucky, will give you the experience you came for鈥攗rsine creatures hungrily snatching salmon from the air. For a hiking route to Brooks Falls, check out .

Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska

Aialik Glacier

Aialik Glacier
The author in front of Aialik Glacier (Photo: Emily Pennington)

It takes effort to get out to Aialik Glacier (typically a two-hour boat ride, followed by three miles of kayaking), but along the way, you can search for wriggling sea otters, playful Dall鈥檚 porpoises, spouting humpback whales, and soaring bald eagles. Once face to face with this moving sheet of ice, the most rapidly calving in Kenai Fjords, paddlers have the opportunity to watch and listen for 鈥渨hite thunder,鈥 the sound huge hunks of ice make when they crash into the sea.

Best Way to Reach This View: I used Kayak 国产吃瓜黑料s Worldwide for my adventure to Aialik Glacier (from $489; trips available mid-May through early September), based in Seward. You鈥檒l first take a water-taxi trip south to Aialik Bay, a fantastic way to spot all kinds of wildlife, before suiting up at a beach and sliding into your kayak. Expect to paddle for three hours.

Kings Canyon National Park, California

Evolution Lake

This one鈥檚 for all my backpacking brethren. As a predominately wilderness-designated area (meaning that trails can only be used for hiking and horseback riding, and human development is extremely minimal), Kings Canyon is a mecca for trekkers who鈥檇 rather don a pack for dozens of miles than motor around to car-friendly overlooks. The lake is a sparkling cobalt gem flanked by glacier-polished granite peaks. One thing鈥檚 for certain鈥搚ou鈥檒l find pristine solitude when you arrive.

Best Way to Reach This View: The lake can be accessed via the 211-mile John Muir Trail, a 36-mile loop departing from Bishop, or a pack-animal trip out of Muir Trail Ranch.

Kobuk Valley National Park, Alaska

Great Kobuk Sand Dunes

Kobuk Valley Dunes
Kobuk Valley dunes (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Kobuk Valley often rounds out the list of least-visited national parks, but there鈥檚 a small landing strip situated at the edge of its most noteworthy geological feature, the Great Kobuk Sand Dunes, that makes this far-out park accessible for anyone who can tolerate bush planes.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the small town of Kotzebue, hop onto a flightseeing day tour with Golden Eagle Outfitters, or splurge on a 12-day hiking and packrafting trip with Alaska Alpine 国产吃瓜黑料s that starts and finishes in Fairbanks.

Lake Clark National Park, Alaska

Turquoise Lake

Flanked by 8,000-foot peaks and a colorful array of tundra plants like crowberry and reindeer lichen, Turquoise Lake is a quintessential example of an outrageously teal, glacially fed tarn. It鈥檒l take a bit of extra effort to get there (compared to commercial-flight-accessible Port Alsworth), but expert guiding services offering kayaking and hiking trips will handle all the logistics for you, so you can relish the extraordinary ridges and ravines of the Alaska Range.

Best Way to Reach This View: There are no roads in the park. You鈥檒l have to take a small plane in to reach the lake. We suggest going on an outfitted trip, again with .

Lassen Volcanic National Park, California

Cinder Cone Summit

Lassen Cinder Cone
Lassen cinder cone (Photo: Emily Pennington)

After a hamstring-busting two-mile ascent to the top of Cinder Cone, in Northern California鈥檚 often overlooked Lassen Volcanic National Park, hikers have a chance to view one of the most eye-catching geological features in the entire park system. The aptly named Fantastic Lava Beds surround the 辫补谤办鈥檚 incredible painted dunes, a series of warm-toned hills of oxidized volcanic ash. Grab a site at Butte Lake Campground to revel in marvelous night skies, just a short jaunt from the trailhead.

Best Way to Reach This View: Take Highway 44 about 24 miles from the 辫补谤办鈥檚 northwest entrance to a six-mile dirt road that leads to the Butte Lake Day Use Area. Cinder Cone Trailhead is located near the boat ramp.

Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky

Drapery Room

Home to the longest known cave system in the world, Mammoth Cave, in central Kentucky, is not a park that鈥檚 typically recognized for its naturally sculpted cave formations (like those found in Carlsbad Caverns). However, guests who embark on the ranger-led Domes and Dripstones tour can witness remarkable stalactites and stalagmites, plus wavy drapery-style limestone formations that look like a canopy on a princess鈥檚 four-poster bed.

Best Way to Reach This View: You鈥檒l have to sign up for a tour at the visitor center and be able to descend and climb back up a series of stairs.

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

Cliff Palace Overlook

Cliff Palace Overlook
Cliff Palace Overlook (Photo: Getty Images/Rebecca L. Latson)

 

No visit to Mesa Verde is complete without a trip to Cliff Palace Overlook, which offers a majestic view of the largest Ancestral Puebloan dwelling in the park. With over 150 rooms and 21 kivas (ceremonial spaces), this site was thought to be a vibrant gathering place with a population of roughly 100 people. You鈥檒l see and learn about 800-year-old stone structures. Ranger-guided tours are also available for a closer glimpse of Ancestral Puebloan architecture.

Best Way to Reach This View: Head down Chapin Mesa to the six-mile Cliff Palace Loop and pull off at the designated parking area.

Mount Rainier National Park, Washington

Myrtle Falls

Myrtle Falls and Mount Rainier
Myrtle Falls and Mount Rainier (Photo: Getty Images/aoldman)

The imposing face of 14,410-foot Mount Rainier, the most glaciated peak in the lower 48, looms perfectly above the idyllic cascade of Myrtle Falls, creating a postcard-worthy photo op for passing hikers. Along the hike in, learn about the 辫补谤办鈥檚 remarkable wildflower displays and try to spot purple penstemon, crimson paintbrush, and porcelain bear grass from the path.

Best Way to Reach This View: Take a 0.8-mile stroll (round trip) along the Skyline Trail, located in the 辫补谤办鈥檚 popular Paradise area.

National Park of American Samoa, American Samoa

Pola Island Trail

Near the tiny village of Vatia, on the northern shore of Tutuila Island, the forested 0.1-mile Pola Island Trail boasts a jaw-dropping view with minimal effort. Park in the shade near a sign marking the well-worn, easy path, then hop over a boulder-strewn beach to soak up incomparable views of ragged Pacific coastline, swaying palm trees, and the craggy cliffs of Pola Island, one of the park鈥檚 most important nesting sites for seabirds like boobies and frigates.

Best Way to Reach This View: To reach the trailhead, drive past the last house at the end of the road in Vatia. The road then turns to dirt, and you鈥檒l come upon a small parking area. You鈥檒l see a sign for the short trail leading to the beach.

New River Gorge National Park, West Virginia

Long Point

Long Point
The author, at Long Point, recently chose New River Gorge as the most family-friendly national park. (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Yes, you could drive up to New River Gorge鈥檚 namesake bridge for kickass views, but my favorite photo op of the famous roadway lies at the end of the 1.6-mile (one way) trail to Long Point. Not only will visitors here get to meander through a forest of hemlock, beech, and white oak, but they鈥檒l also glean outstanding glimpses of rafters floating down the New if they time their outing just right.

Best Way to Reach This View: The Long Point Trailhead is off of Gateway Road, about two miles from the town of Fayetteville.

North Cascades National Park, Washington

Sahale Glacier Camp

Dawn at Sahale Glacier Camp
Dawn at Sahale Glacier Camp (Photo: Getty Images/Ian Stotesbury/500px)

One of the most memorable things about North Cascades (apart from its generally crowd-free hiking trails) is its plethora of hanging glaciers, strung between high alpine summits. The moderate 3.7-mile (one way) trek to Cascade Pass will wow you with sensational panoramas of granitic cliffs plunging into Pelton Basin, but for a real showstopper, plan an overnight backpacking trip and continue up the broad shoulder of Sahale Mountain, pitching a tent at Sahale Glacier Camp and enjoying its bird鈥檚-eye view of the Triplets, Mount Baker, and Mount Shuksan.

Best Way to Reach This View: You鈥檒l reach the starting point for the Cascade Pass Trailhead at the end of Cascade Pass Road. For a hiking route to Sahale Glacier Camp, check out .

Olympic National Park, Washington

Rialto Beach

Consult a tide chart before heading out, then motor over to Rialto Beach, on the northwestern shoreline of Washington鈥檚 Olympic Peninsula. There you鈥檒l find enormous driftwood logs, rocky sea stacks, and bold surfers braving the chilly Pacific Ocean. If you feel like stretching your legs, an easy three-mile (round trip) walk along the coast will bring you past tidepools crawling with life to Hole in the Wall, a volcanic outcropping with a natural arch that鈥檚 perfect for pictures.

Best Way to Reach This View: The beach is about 75 miles from Port Angeles. Once you reach Olympic, you鈥檒l be on Highway 101, the road that goes around the park. Exit onto La Push Road and drive eight miles. Then turn onto Mora Road, and after about five miles you鈥檒l find the parking lot for the beach.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona

Kachina Point

Kachina Point
Kachina Point (Photo: Getty Images/Nancy C. Ross)

Though the park is best known for its logs of crystallized conifers, Petrified Forest is also home to some seriously colorful painted-desert hills. At Kachina Point, located just outside the 1930s-era Painted Desert Inn, the rich reds and tangerines of these undulating knolls are on full display. After a quick photo break, be sure to check out Hopi artist Fred Kabotie鈥檚 gorgeous murals on display inside the inn.

Best Way to Reach This View: The point is located about two miles from the north entrance of the park. Stroll on the accessible trail behind the Painted Desert Inn National Historic Landmark to the overlook.

Pinnacles National Park, California

Condor Gulch Overlook

Pinnacles is a funny little sleeper park that鈥檚 often overshadowed by California鈥檚 celebrity public lands like Joshua Tree and Yosemite, but anyone who鈥檚 ventured into the 辫补谤办鈥檚 golden breccia spires knows that they鈥檙e a worthy road-trip destination. Condor Gulch Overlook gives guests a chance to enjoy an up-close view of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 famous pinnacles on a well-worn, family-friendly path. Bring your binoculars and try to spot an endangered California condor.

Best Way to Reach This View: The overlook is one mile from the Bear Gulch Nature Center.

Redwood National Park, California

Tall Trees Grove

When in Redwoods, it鈥檚 necessary to make a pilgrimage to Tall Trees Grove, a stand of old-growth sempervirens that protect the tallest trees on earth. Don your hiking shoes for a 4.5-mile (round trip) moderate hike around a lush forest of mossy coastal redwoods that鈥檒l have even the grinchiest people believing in fairies. The whole hike takes around four hours.

Best Way to Reach This View: First reserve a free for an access code to the area鈥檚 restricted road to the Tall Trees Trail. It鈥檚 an hour drive, parts of which are on a narrow and winding dirt road, from the park visitor center to the trailhead.

Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Mills Lake

Mills Lake
Mills Lake (Photo: Getty Images/tupungato)

On my first-ever trip to this national park, 国产吃瓜黑料 writer Brendan Leonard told me that if I only made it to one lake inside the park, it had to be Mills Lake, and boy, was he right. Start at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead and hike 2.6 miles鈥攑ast rushing waterfalls and huge granite boulders鈥攂efore dipping your toes into the frigid snowmelt of Mills Lake, which overlooks the dramatic northern crags of Longs Peak.

Best Way to Reach This View: Head south on Bear Lake Road for about eight miles and park at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. Ascend the trail from there to Mills Lake. Arrange a vehicle reservation (or free park shuttle) if you鈥檙e traveling between May and October. For a hiking route to Mills Lake, check out .

Saguaro National Park, Arizona

Wasson Peak

When you鈥檝e had enough of Saguaro鈥檚 thorny, many-armed cacti from the vantage point of your car window and you鈥檙e ready to get your heart rate up, head to the commanding summit of 4,688-foot Wasson Peak, the tallest in the park鈥檚 western section. Keep your eyes peeled for petroglyphs as you ascend past saguaro, ocotillo, and prickly pear cactus. Once you reach the top, give yourself a high five and look out across the urban breadth of Tucson all the way to the 辫补谤办鈥檚 eastern Rincon Mountain District.

Best Way to Reach This View: Park at the Kings Canyon Trailhead and then expect a strenuous four-mile hike (and nearly 2,000 feet of elevation gain) to the summit.

Sequoia National Park, California

Bearpaw Meadow

Bearpaw Meadow
The author soaking up the awe at Bearpaw Meadow (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Bearpaw Meadow is one of those miraculous, only-in-the-parks vistas that dreams are made of, and getting there is an adventure all its own. You鈥檒l be treated to soul-stirring views of the imposing granite domes and summits of the remote Sierra Nevada. Set up your tent at Bearpaw Meadow鈥檚 backcountry campground, or, if you鈥檙e feeling spendy, get a glamping tent and dinner at High Sierra Camp.

Best Way to Reach This View: From the park鈥檚 iconic Crescent Meadow area, which hosts a grove of towering old-growth sequoias, hike for 11.4 miles to Bearpaw Meadow along the High Sierra Trail, taking in inspiring views of Moro Rock, the powerful Kaweah River, and the Great Western Divide.

Shenandoah National Park, Virginia

Hazel Mountain Overlook

Rise before dawn and cruise along Shenandoah鈥檚 winding, 105-mile Skyline Drive to admire profound sunrise views from this east-facing overlook. An unusual outcropping of ancient granite makes the perfect ledge from which to enjoy Virginia鈥檚 rolling pastoral hillsides as the sky turns from apricot to bright blue.

Best Way to Reach This View: Enter the park at the Thornton Gap Entrance Station. The overlook is at mile 33 on Skyline Drive.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

River Bend Overlook

The large stone shelter at River Bend Overlook, in eastern North Dakota, makes for a picturesque family portrait, with a backdrop of shrub-speckled badlands and a U-shaped swerve in the serpentine Little Missouri River. It鈥檚 a vast and gorgeous view out onto the river valley.

Best Way to Reach This View: Enter the north unit of the park on Scenic Drive. The overlook is about eight miles in. Park and walk up a short trail to the viewing deck. For a closer look at the 辫补谤办鈥檚 iron-impregnated sandstone and wavering grasslands, hop onto the 0.8-mile Caprock Coulee Trail and saunter away from the automobile crowds.

Virgin Islands National Park, Virgin Islands

Cruz Bay Overlook

Cruz Bay Lookout Point
Cruz Bay Overlook听(Photo: Emily Pennington)

So much of Virgin Islands National Park, on the island of St. John, is about appreciating the scenery beneath the waves. But the Cruz Bay Overlook, on the moderate Lind Point Trail, is a great stopover between snorkeling trips. Pull off at the signed viewpoint for a commanding look at the boat traffic sailing to and from gorgeous Cruz Bay, the island鈥檚 main port. If you鈥檙e looking for a little more exercise, continue on to Solomon Beach for a secluded white-sand oasis.

Best Way to Reach This View: The Lind Point Trail starts just behind the park visitor center and ends at Honeymoon Bay or Solomon Bay. A spur off the trail leads to the Cruz Bay Overlook.

Voyageurs National Park, Minnesota

Kabetogama Lake Overlook

Kabetogama Lake
Kabetogama Lake (Photo: Getty Images/Kyle Kempf)

Whether you鈥檙e just driving through Voyageurs or you鈥檙e renting a houseboat for the entire family, this wheelchair-accessible overlook on the edge of enormous Lake Kabetogama will provide a fantastic cross section of the area鈥檚 natural wonders. Tiny islets are freckled with boreal forest. White and red pines intersperse with fir and spruce trees. And the distant, mournful call of a loon can often be heard at dusk.

Best Way to Reach This View: It鈥檚 an easy 0.4-mile trail to reach the overlook. The trailhead is at the third parking area on Meadowood Drive near the Ash River Visitor Center.

White Sands National Park, New Mexico

Roadrunner Picnic Area

In the heart of White Sands, the Roadrunner Picnic Area offers guests a cozy resting place, surrounded by a vast expanse of glowing white gypsum dune fields. The site鈥檚 futuristic picnic tables, complete with corrugated metal awnings to protect against ferocious wind and sun, are a fabulous spot from which to enjoy and explore this New Mexico park as the sun sets beyond the Organ Mountains.

Best Way to Reach This View: The picnic area is located about six to seven miles on the main road from the fee station.

Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota

Rankin Ridge

The historic fire tower atop Rankin Ridge dates back to 1956, and though visitors are not permitted to climb it, it sits on the highest point in Wind Cave (5,013 feet) and makes for an excellent photo backdrop. You鈥檒l look down at the park, which is home to some of the last preserved mixed-grass prairie in the country.

Best Way to Reach This View: From Custer, take Route 16A East for 6.5 miles and turn south on Highway 87. After 13 miles, look for an access road leading to the trailhead. It鈥檚 a short and easy half-mile hike through fragrant ponderosa pines to the top.

Wrangell鈥揝t. Elias National Park, Alaska

Root Glacier Trail

The Root Glacier Trail
The author walking alongside Root Glacier (Photo: Emily Pennington)

Brave the bumpy, winding McCarthy Road all the way to the once thriving mining community of McCarthy and cross the footbridge to get to Kennecott, a historic town that serves as the center for all things Wrangell鈥揝t. Elias, including the majestic trail along the colossal Root Glacier. Bring your bear spray and go it alone, or hire a guide to learn more about the site鈥檚 copper-mining past. Spoiler alert鈥搚ou can also book a crunchy crampon trek atop the glacier. Either way, you鈥檒l be treated to awesome views of Mount Donoho and the 6,000-foot-tall Stairway Icefall.

Best Way to Reach This View: The Root Glacier Trail starts in Kennecott, and about 1.5 miles in you鈥檒l reach the glacier. If you plan to walk on the glacier, hire an experienced guide and wear crampons.

Yellowstone National Park, Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming

Artist Point

Artist Point
Artist Point (Photo: Getty Images/Jayjay adventures)

Named for its proximity to a famous oil painting by 19th-century painter Thomas Moran, Artist Point is the most stunning place from which to gaze at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its mighty waterfall. That being said, it does get crowded in summer months. If you fancy a short hike with similarly epic vistas, amble along the signed trail to Point Sublime (2.6 miles round trip) for an even better glimpse of the canyon鈥檚 multicolored walls.

Best Way to Reach This View: For a hiking route to Artist Point, check out .

Yosemite National Park, California

Glacier Point

After a yearlong closure in 2022 for road rehabilitation, travelers can once again drive to Glacier Point and see the broad panoramas of Half Dome, Nevada Fall, and Mount Hoffman. Wander around the accessible, paved pathways near the gift shop or hitch a ride onto a portion of the Panorama Trail for a similar view, sans the crowds at this very popular park.

Best Way to Reach This View: Drive 13 miles on Wawona Road from Yosemite Valley, then turn onto Glacier Point Road at the Chinquapin intersection. Hikers: Start at the Four Mile Trailhead in Yosemite Valley. It鈥檚 a strenuous 9.6 mile (round trip) hike to the point.

Zion National Park, Utah

Canyon Overlook

Canyon Overlook
Canyon Overlook (Photo: Getty Images/janetteasche)

Canyon Overlook, in Zion鈥檚 eastern section, is one of the most impressive low-effort, high-reward hikes in the country. The reward is a breathtaking view of the cathedral-like golden spires of Towers of the Virgin, in the 辫补谤办鈥檚 main canyon.

Best Way to Reach This View: Park near the tunnel on the eastern side of the Zion鈥揗ount Carmel Highway, then take a series of stairs and sandstone slabs for a mere 0.5-miles (one way) until you reach the lookout on the edge of the cliffs.


As our 63 Parks columnist, Emily Pennington, visited and wrote about every single national park in the U.S. She鈥檚 also the author of the recent book Feral: Losing Myself and Finding My Way in America鈥檚 National Parks.

The author in her happy place鈥攁 national park (Photo: Emily Pennington)

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9 Beautiful Island Campsites in the U.S. to Pitch Your Tent All Winter Long /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/island-camping-us/ Fri, 18 Nov 2022 12:30:08 +0000 /?p=2611878 9 Beautiful Island Campsites in the U.S. to Pitch Your Tent All Winter Long

From tropical beaches to wildlife-watching outposts, we鈥檝e rounded up the perfect campsites to escape the cold-weather blues

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9 Beautiful Island Campsites in the U.S. to Pitch Your Tent All Winter Long

Taking an island vacation doesn鈥檛 have to mean splurging on some ritzy all-inclusive resort. You can grab your tent and get away from it all for a fraction of the cost year-round. Even better, the winter season on these U.S. islands has a different feel, marked by diminished crowds, an abundance of waterfront space, and a quiet beauty.

I love camping on islands, especially those with empty beaches. In honor of National Camp Day, on November 19, I鈥檝e compiled a list of nine U.S. island destinations that beckon with warm weather and plenty of outdoor adventure.

1. Santa Rosa Campground
Santa Rosa Island, Channel Islands National Park, California

Santa Rosa Campground at sunrise
Santa Rosa Campground at sunrise (Photo: Courtesy Alexandra Gillespie)

($15) is nestled in a beautiful valley on the northeast side of Santa Rosa Island, the second-largest island in this national park, just 50 miles off the Southern California coast. Book your passage over with (from $55 one-way), which leaves from Ventura Harbor. The ferry will drop you off at the pier, and from there it鈥檚 an easy 1.5-mile hike to the campground, which offers potable water and modern bathrooms.

Each of the 15 sites has a wind shelter, which is key this time of year, as gusts can whip through the valley. I鈥檓 speaking from experience鈥攜ou want to pitch your tent behind that shelter. But even a windy night is worth waking up to the sound of the Pacific crashing on the beach below the nearby cliffs, and the sunrises are spectacular鈥攂ook sites one through four for the best views.

I recommend fishing or diving for your supper from the bay by the pier; although 20 percent of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 waters are marine-protected areas, fishing is allowed everywhere else in accordance with state (permits from $9). During my trip here, it was easy to collect overpopulated urchin and spear rockfish.

Hikers can enjoy the island鈥檚 many trails, which range from a mile to 28 miles, and keep an eye out for the adorable foxes鈥擨 counted 14 when I was there!鈥攐ne of the 辫补谤办鈥檚 281 endemic species.

2.听Cinnamon Bay Beach and Campground
Saint John, U.S. Virgin Islands National Park

Cinnamon Bay in the U.S. Virgin Islands
Cinnamon Bay (Photo: cdwheatley/iStock/Getty)

Kick it in the Caribbean when you bunk at the only in U.S. Virgin Islands National Park. Visitors can choose from a variety of tent sites ($50) or cottages ($285) December through April and pop in to the on-site Rain Tree Caf茅 for options like smoothies or food to go. This is a paradise that begs exploration by land and by sea; take to the more than 20 trails in the park, some leading to petroglyphs and an old sugar mill, or rent snorkeling gear at the campground and spend hours swimming the island鈥檚 turquoise waters and coral reefs home to some 400 species.

3. Cannabis Farm and Greenhouse Garden
Mountain View, Big Island, Hawaii

Cannabis Farm and Garden
Cannabis Farm and Garden (Photo: Courtesy Hawaii Cannabis)

Campers on the eastern side of the Big Island can choose between two unique sites at this forest 鈥攏ext to the cannabis grove or within the greenhouse deck ($45 for two people per night). Enjoy hot outdoor showers, but expect to pay for electricity.

The host offers one-hour cannabis tours ($50 for two people), surf lessons ($75), and customizable island tours. Or head off on your own to explore the nearby Wao Kele o Puna rainforest, sacred home of the goddess Pele as well as native habitat to the endangered apapane and akohekohe birds. The hot spot of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is also just ten miles away.

4. A Gulf Coast Island Retreat
Gibsonton, Florida

Island Retreat Florida
A campsite at Island Retreat Florida (Photo: Courtesy Island Retreat Florida)

Now鈥檚 your chance to cosplay Robinson Crusoe: an with four campsites is available to rent in the middle of the Alafia River, about a 20-minute drive south of Tampa (from $65). Designed with elevated wooden platforms for your tent, an outhouse, a fire pit, and a picnic table, you pack in the essentials (including water) and pack out all your trash.

Although the island host offers shuttle service for a fee, renting one of his kayaks or canoes for the quarter-mile crossing is your best bet: you can paddle to area mangroves, catching sight of dolphins and stingrays; request a river tour; or, for a night out, tie your boat up at the across the water.

5. Stafford Beach Campground
Cumberland Island National Lakeshore, Georgia

Wild horses grazing at Cumberland Island National Seashore
Wild horses grazing at Cumberland Island National Seashore (Photo: Dan Reynolds Photography/Getty)

Only 300 visitors a day are allowed on Cumberland Island, a barrier island more than twice the size of Manhattan. ($12) has ten sites and offers necessities like flush toilets, fire rings, potable water, and (cold) showers. A 45-minute from the town of St. Marys will drop you off at the pier. From there, you鈥檒l take a 3.5-mile trail to the campground, part of a 50-plus-mile island-wide network.

Or bring your bike and cruise around with your binocs鈥攖here鈥檚 plenty of wildlife to see, including wild horses, loggerhead turtles, and alligators. Saltwater fishermen can look to hook species like catfish and crocker. Historical relics also remain an attraction; tour Dungeness Ruins, a former mansion occupied by the British in the War of 1812, and Plum Orchard, once the winter home of the Carnegie family, built at the turn of the 20th century.

6. A Private Horse Farm
Saint Helena Island, South Carolina

Saint Helena Island's Coffin Point Road
Saint Helena Island鈥檚 Coffin Point Road (Photo: David Madison/Getty)

This 70-acre , set on the property of Camelot Farms Equestrian Center, is a working farm once part of the Coffin Point Plantation. Its five sites ($15) rest between two ponds below a grove of oak trees, potable water is available from a spigot, and campfires and pets are permitted. (There are no bathrooms.)

with the farm ($100), or head three miles down the road to (from $5), the filming location for Forrest Gump鈥s Vietnam War scenes, where birders can check oystercatchers and yellow-rumped warblers off their list this time of year, hikers can enjoy more than nine miles of trails, and anglers can rent a rod and reel and try their luck at the end of a renovated pier or along the shore.

7. Bird Island Basin Campground
Padre Island National Seashore, Texas

Long-billed curlews are one of many bird species found on South Padre Island.
Long-billed curlews are one of many bird species found on South Padre Island. (Photo: Courtesy Padre Island Expeditions)

Bird Island Basin鈥檚 steady wind and warm shallows qualify it as one of the best windsurfing spots in the country. You can pitch your tent at one of the first-come, first-served sites ($8, plus a $25 vehicle entrance fee) along Laguna Madre and then make the easy two-minute walk to for a windsurfing class (from $70) or to rent kayaking or paddleboarding gear.

If you鈥檙e there for the birds鈥攑lenty are, as it鈥檚 located on the Central Flyway鈥攚inter sees thousands migrating through the area, and the double-crested cormorant and snowy egret. Aficionados might tack on 鈥 six-to-eight-hour birding tour ($600 for up to four people). Come prepared with food and firewood, as the nearest stores are 12 miles away.

8. Rainforest Camping
Utuado, Puerto Rico

Monoliths at Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Park
Monoliths at Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Park (Photo: Walter Bibikow/Getty)

Leave the mainland behind for this ($30) in the mountains 90 minutes southwest of San Juan. Ask the host for a map of the property when you arrive and hit the trails in search of waterfalls. Amenities include an outdoor shower, a bathroom with hot water, fire pits, and potable water. There鈥檚 also a on the property ($59), and breakfast and dinner can be ordered for an additional fee.

Up for an eco-adventure? Host-led tours include hiking, exploring subterranean rivers, caving and more. Or venture into the town of Utuado for rappelling, river caving, and horseback riding on a coffee farm,听or to visit the pictographs and stone monoliths of Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Park,听an ancestral site of the native Ta铆nos.

9. Kahua Lehua (Hoomaluhia)
Oahu, Hawaii

Hoomaluhia Botanic Garden
Imagine camping here. (Photo: Courtesy the City and County of Honolulu)

A campsite within Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden? And just nine miles from the island鈥檚 beloved Lanikai Beach and 12 miles from central Honolulu? Yes, please! At Kahua Lehua ($32), you鈥檒l have access to the sprawling 400-acre property, which features plants from major tropical regions around the globe as well as those indigenous to Hawaii.

Birders can request its garden-specific checklist, which includes local species like the Pacific golden plover and black-crowned night heron. Five campsites are available (each can accommodate groups of up to ten) and offer picnic tables and fire circles. The required permit is available for purchase two weeks ahead of time, so be ready to book鈥攖his place is popular.

Alexandra Gillespie is a travel writer whose work has appeared in National Geographic,听Scuba Diving, and NPR. She lives in Southern California, where she spends much of her free time shore diving.

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Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn鈥檛 Be. /adventure-travel/national-parks/virgin-islands-national-park-63-parks-traveler/ Mon, 29 Aug 2022 17:05:11 +0000 /?p=2597973 Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn鈥檛 Be.

Whether you鈥檙e seeking soft sandy beaches, hiking, or snorkeling and other water sports, this stunning park on the Caribbean island of St. John should be on your visit list

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Virgin Islands National Park Is Often Forgotten. It Shouldn鈥檛 Be.

63 Parks Traveler started with a simple goal: to visit every U.S. national park. Avid backpacker and public-lands nerd saved up, built out a tiny van to travel and live in, and hit the road, practicing COVID-19 best safety protocols along the way. The parks as we know them are rapidly changing, and she wanted to see them before it鈥檚 too late. Virgin Islands National Park is her 56th park visit.


After navigating the bustling Miami airport, sweating in a KN95 mask for a packed three-hour flight, swerving through the traffic of St. Thomas in a taxi, and zipping across the seas on a breezy 20-minute ferry ride, I arrived on St. John, exhausted and dizzy from a year of near constant travel.

The Caribbean island is home to one of the country鈥檚 rare tropical national parks, . Once part of the Danish West Indies and a hub for cotton and sugar plantations, most of the land on St. John was donated to the U.S. government by Laurance Rockefeller in 1954, with the express interest that it be preserved in perpetuity as a park. It has been a popular destination for Americans ever since but was severely affected by Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017, leaving many lodging options shuttered, not to mention locals homeless. However, the Virgin Islands have bounced back considerably, and I was excited to see St. John听firsthand, as soon as I pushed through the mental fog that had set in from a lack of sleep and my disorientation at having arrived in yet another new place.

Sensing that this park would be my last chance at anything resembling a respite before a mad dash to see the final seven parks on my quest to visit them all, I allowed myself to touch down slowly with a . Instantly befriending the bartender, who wasted no time in serving me a locally brewed , I milled about the boat and watched the sun sink and the clouds light up in a hundred shades of honey and pink.

At sunset aboard a sailboat cruise, the Virgin Islands are cast in silhouette.
At sunset aboard a sailboat cruise, the Virgin Islands are cast in silhouette.

Ever the Type A traveler, I decided to challenge myself to unwind and go with the flow on my three-day visit to the Virgin Islands, a far cry from the maxed-out calendar of dates, deadlines, and park destinations I鈥檇 subjected myself to over the past year. On day two, I woke up and lounged in my twin-size hostel bed for over an hour before lazily making a bowl of granola, heading outside into the humid air, and sauntering up a random trail near the National Park Service visitor center. I passed cacti and West Indian as I ascended to a spectacular view of Cruz Bay, freckled with tourist boats. Moments later, a sign marked a turnoff for and, with nothing on my agenda, I hung a left and continued down a path rutted with gnarled roots, nearly tripping over a hermit crab as I neared the beach.

It looked like one of those cheesy postcards you鈥檇 buy on vacation to make your friends back home jealous鈥攁 thin strip of sugar-soft, white sand framed by sea grape鈥攂ut in my travel delirium, this beach seemed a perfect opportunity to check my desire to constantly do more, to instead simply bask in the sunshine and salt water. I laid out my towel and pulled out my Kindle.

I鈥檝e never been a beach person, but something about the metronomic whooshing of the waves lulled me into a state of bliss, and I passed the entire day reading and plunging into the ocean to cool off. My planning-addicted mind began to loosen its grip, thanks to my surroundings, and time began to dilate wildly.

Have I been out here an hour? I wondered. Five? Hands on a clock didn鈥檛 seem to matter much at the moment. Sure, I had a snorkeling trip the next morning, but that was for future Emily to worry about. Right now all I had to do was breathe and enjoy.

It was a mental shift I would carry with me for the remainder of the trip, soul food in the best possible way.

 

63 Parks Traveler Virgin Islands Info

Size: 15,052 acres

Location: St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands

Created In: 1956 (national park)

Best For: Snorkeling, scuba diving, boating, fishing, hiking, relaxing on the beach

When to Go: Winter (66 to 79 degrees) and spring (67 to 83 degrees) are the driest months and considered high tourist season for this park. Summer (72 to 86 degrees) and fall (69 to 85 degrees) bring fewer crowds and more affordable lodging, due to the Atlantic hurricane season, when more frequent and severe storms hit the region that can result in torrential rain, flooding, heavy winds, and canceled flights, not to mention damage to coral reefs in extreme cases.

Where to Stay: I enjoyed a private, hostel-style twin room in town at , just a short walk from the Cruz Bay ferry dock. It had clean bathrooms, a mini fridge for groceries, and, best of all, afforded easy access to everything in that central area. If you鈥檙e jonesing for a more rustic experience, offers tent and glamping sites inside the national park.

Where to Eat: , full of funky street-art vibes (courtesy of artist ), serves up delicious Sonoran-style Mexican food, with a few epic options for vegetarians. The restaurant is committed to helping reduce single-use plastic, and all take-out orders are served in recycled, biodegradable materials.

Mini 国产吃瓜黑料: Hike to . Picturesque and chock-full of the silky white sand visitors expect in the Caribbean, their beaches are worth exploring, and this 2.5-mile hike to both is a mellow way to spend an afternoon. At Salomon, you鈥檒l get a chance to explore and revel in a bit of solitude, while Honeymoon features more creature comforts, like hammocks, , and live music.

Mega 国产吃瓜黑料: Go for an all-day snorkeling trip. offers a plethora of different options, from five-hour trips with a floating lunch stop to half-day swims in secluded coves. I opted for the daylong trip on my visit and tripped out on the colorful coral reefs, sea turtles, and my first-ever restaurant-boat experience.

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A Visual Vacation in the Virgin Islands /video/not-just-parks-virgin-islands/ Tue, 02 Feb 2021 00:00:00 +0000 /video/not-just-parks-virgin-islands/ A Visual Vacation in the Virgin Islands

From beaches and bays to ruins and sugar mills, this time lapse of the Virgin Islands is a breathtaking virtual adventure

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A Visual Vacation in the Virgin Islands

听visited St.听John, one听of the U.S.听Virgin Islands, where it听explored every trail and waterway in听Virgin Islands National Park. This timelapse shows how the landscape听has听recovered from the damage caused by听Hurricane Maria听in 2017.

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Hurricane Irma Destroyed My Childhood Paradise /outdoor-adventure/environment/irmageddon/ Thu, 15 Mar 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/irmageddon/ Hurricane Irma Destroyed My Childhood Paradise

As a kid, you can鈥檛 control where you grow up. To land somewhere like St. John, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, takes luck鈥攁nd in my case an adventurous mother.

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Hurricane Irma Destroyed My Childhood Paradise

As a kid, you can鈥檛 control where you grow up. To land somewhere like St. John, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, takes luck鈥攁nd in my case an adventurous mother.

My fraternal twin brother, Sean, and I were five years old when our mom decided that she was tired of commuting from Westport, Connecticut, to New York City. So in December 1985, she and her boyfriend bought a 41-foot sailboat named Yahoo, we packed everything we owned into 19 duffel bags, and we headed south.

St. John, half of which is covered by , offered singular beauty鈥攁nd plenty of places to anchor our new floating home. Mom took a job as a landscaper in Fish Bay and eventually got her real estate license. Sean and I fell in with a rat pack of kids who congregated after school to play tackle football, catch tarantulas and lizards, and crawl under barroom floors in search of quarters. We grew up boogie boarding and surfing on the south shore. One day we took turns reeling in a 350-pound shark off the west end of Jost Van Dyke, next door in the British Virgin Islands.


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After two years on the boat, Mom bought a house. A house that, on September 6, 2017, was completely destroyed by Hurricane Irma. At the time, my mother was on the mainland for a wedding and a visit with Sean and me in Colorado, where we both live with our families. Four days after the storm, we found a YouTube video with aerial footage of our neighborhood. It was annihilated; I didn鈥檛 recognize our home, a modest two-story structure that had survived hurricanes for 30 years. It looked like someone had shot a missile into it. So did our neighbors鈥 houses. I watched the video five times. Despite studying the footage, which covered at least a quarter mile in all directions, I could not locate our roof.

It had been more than 15 years since I鈥檇 lived on St. John, but I still considered it home. It鈥檚 where I learned about the world, everything from fishing to race. When we were nine, my brother and I spent an entire spring glued to a chain-link fence watching St. John鈥檚 all-black Little League team practice. The West Indian coaches, former pro prospects Orville 鈥淐hopper鈥 Brown and Terry 鈥淐hino鈥 Chinnery, asked if we鈥檇 like to join the team the following year. We did. On September 16, 1989, while practicing in the island鈥檚 main town of Cruz Bay, I got hit by a pitch and broke my elbow. As the doctor wrapped it in a cast, he said, 鈥淗ave you heard about the storm coming?鈥

Devastation at Bitter End Yacht Club, on Virgin Gorda
Devastation at Bitter End Yacht Club, on Virgin Gorda (Steve Simonsen)

He said it was called Hugo and that the territory was in line for a direct strike. The Virgin Islands have a long, fatal history with tropical cyclones. The first recorded major hurricane hit the island in 1697. Devastating storms followed in 1772, 1819, 1867, and 1916. It had been decades since a legitimate threat had materialized.

By then we were in our new house a half mile above Cruz Bay; other residents live in small communities scattered above bays and beaches. We were oblivious to the storm鈥檚 power. Instead of installing hurricane shutters or armor screens, like people do now, we duct-taped an X over each of the six sliding glass doors and sat on our living room couch as Hugo roared through with 150-mile-per-hour sustained winds. We watched a neighbor鈥檚 roof peel off, a shed get picked up by a tornado, and a restaurant鈥檚 roof slam into our yard like a kite. When the glass started to bow, Mom told us to hide under the bed.

In 1995, Hurricane Marilyn landed another roundhouse. Sean and I were in Connecticut when it hit; Mom rode out the storm on a boat in Hurricane Hole, a sheltered bay that offers some protection from the wind. Though the boat held its position, people who hunkered down in more vulnerable locations on shore still insist that the winds were substantially stronger than the 115-mile-per-hour forecast.

I recall images from those storms, but the damage I saw on the Irma video was in a class by itself鈥攖hree or four times as bad as Hugo and Marilyn combined, locals estimated. 鈥淭he forces were just incomprehensible compared with previous storms,鈥 says Rafe Boulon, a St. John native and retired scientist whose great-grandfather opened the U.S. Weather Bureau office on Puerto Rico in the early 1900s. 鈥淪ome places lost probably 10,000 years of sand and vegetation in a matter of three hours.鈥


As soon as Irma听formed as a tropical storm off the west coast of Africa on August 30, it grabbed scientists鈥 attention. Weak upper-level winds over the Atlantic and sea-surface temperatures that were two degrees warmer than average made for an ominous mix as the storm moved toward the Caribbean.

鈥淚t鈥檚 amazing how much difference just one or two degrees can make at that water temperature in terms of how strong a hurricane can get,鈥 says Jay Hobgood, an associate professor of atmospheric science at Ohio State University who tracked Irma and has been studying hurricanes since the 1970s.

Despite a roughly 400-mile diameter, Irma had to thread a needle to inflict catastrophic damage on populated places. Most destruction occurs in a hurricane鈥檚 eyewall, a band of brutally violent wind spinning counterclockwise around the eye; beyond that, winds drop off quickly. This creates a 40-to-60-mile-wide path where you don鈥檛 want to be. Almost all hurricanes pass between Trinidad, just north of South America, and Bermuda. But most of them track north of the U.S. Virgin Islands, which have only a 3 percent chance of being hit by a hurricane that鈥檚 Category 3 or stronger.

Irma soon grew to Category 5, with maximum sustained winds of 185 miles per hour鈥攖he second-highest speed on record for an Atlantic hurricane. The day before it hit, Chopper got a call from his son, 颅Okyeame, who works in intelligence for the U.S. Navy and is Sean鈥檚 and my godson. At 61, Chopper is built like a defensive end and remains as imposing as when he served as the island鈥檚 unofficial patriarch, someone who mothers would bring their sons to for discipline and direction. Okyeame told his father that he had researched the storm and it was a monster鈥攏othing like it had hit St. John in generations, if ever. Chopper felt a wave of fear wash over him.

Four days after the storm, we found a YouTube video with aerial footage of our neighborhood. It was annihilated.

The same day, I called my closest friend from childhood, Galen Stamford, who was living in the one-bedroom apartment on the first floor of my mom鈥檚 house with his wife and six-year-old daughter. Sean and I met Galen our first week in the Virgin Islands. He grew up to be one of the top surfers in the region and a beloved island figure. Like everyone else, he had been watching Irma鈥檚 advance with dread. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 think your mom鈥檚 house is going to survive this one,鈥 he said. He had decided to stay at a friend鈥檚 concrete house in Peter Bay, on the north side of the island, where the windows and doors would be protected by a large armor screen. They had stocked enough food and water to last three months.

Across the 20-square-mile island, the 4,000 residents finalized preparations of their own. In Rendezvous Bay, on the island鈥檚 south side, Carlos Di Blasi, a 53-year-old restaurant owner, had decided to ride out the storm in the house that he and his wife, Maria, had built 16 years earlier. It had one-foot-thick concrete walls and a roof made of corrugated tin, three-quarter-inch plywood, and half-inch cedar.

Sailors in the area frantically rushed to secure their boats. Longtime skipper Richard Benson, 66, buzzed around in his dinghy helping other people get ready, including his son, Daniel. Benson owned one of St. John鈥檚 iconic charter boats, the all-black, 84-foot 鈥減irate ship鈥 Goddess Athena. He had a long blond beard and gold teeth, and he was known for his stern temperament and reliability. He and Daniel had five boats to prep between them, but as they worked, Daniel was fighting a stomach bug that left him barely able to speak. 鈥淚 felt terrible,鈥 recalls Daniel, a 26-year-old artist and surfer. 鈥淎ll I wanted was to be with my dad and help him.鈥

Before Benson steered the Goddess Athena to Coral Bay on September 5, he did something that was rare for him: he admitted regret. 鈥淲e should鈥檝e sailed south two days ago,鈥 he told a friend.

Benson didn鈥檛 have as many options as smaller-boat owners did for where to seek shelter. In Hurricane Hole, the National Park Service allots 105 spots across four bays where captains can clip onto a one-inch-thick chain strung across the ocean bottom. But boats longer than 60 feet aren鈥檛 allowed to use the chain, so Benson positioned the Goddess Athena in the shallower water and mud of Sanders Bay, across the harbor.

Just north of where Benson anchored, a 50-year-old lifelong sailor named Adam Hudson tied off his 27-foot Bristol, Solstice, in roughly the same spot he always did: in front of the old customhouse on the east side of the bay. The first time he rode out a major hurricane on the water鈥擧ugo, when he was in his early twenties鈥擧udson escaped a pileup of boats by jumping into chest-deep water and wading to shore as raindrops shelled his skin. He and his dad watched their boat get pounded for the next eight hours, irreparably damaged. This time he figured he鈥檇 be fine, if for no other reason than he鈥檇 always been fine in this spot鈥攖he same rationale Benson seemed to be using.

The night before Irma struck St. John, it mowed down Barbuda鈥攁n island three times the size of St. John鈥攍eaving 95 percent of its buildings uninhabitable. St. John颅ians who watched the radar that night were forced to accept a grim reality.

鈥淚magine you鈥檙e skydiving, and you pull the rip cord and nothing happens,鈥 Daniel Benson says. 鈥淵ou look at the ground, and the glance that you and the ground exchange, that moment of imminence鈥攖hat鈥檚 what it felt like.鈥


On the morning of September 6, the storm ramped up at different times in different places, but it happened quickly every颅where. In Peter Bay, Galen and his storm mates鈥攕even people and six dogs鈥攐bserved an almost instantaneous change when the eyewall arrived at around 11:15 A.M. 鈥淚t was like a snap of your fingers,鈥 he said. 鈥淭here was no warning. We went from 70- to 160-mile-per-hour winds like that. The bronze railings started to whistle. You could hear ceramic roof tiles getting ripped off one by one.鈥

Five miles south, Carlos Di Blasi and his family lounged in a bedroom watching a movie, wondering why it was so quiet. Their house faced east and was tucked against a mountain, sheltered from the west winds. Until 12:30 P.M., you could have heard a quarter hit the floor. Then a big gust shook the house, and Di Blasi decided that they should move downstairs to a more secure room. He walked to the closet to get his shoes as Maria and their 11-year-old son, Alejo, looked out the window.

Bang! A deafening explosion rang out鈥攕uddenly the dark room was light. Di Blasi looked at his 15-year-old son, Mateo. A long two-by-six beam had pierced the roof like a javelin and missed his son鈥檚 head by inches, spraying his hair with wood chips.

Bang! A second beam landed on the other side of Mateo. He stood there, frozen, as water gushed through the ceiling holes.

Bang! A third beam came through. Maria started screaming. The four of them raced downstairs to a bathroom under a concrete ceiling and listened as 11 more beams鈥攔ipped from another house by a tornado鈥斅璸enetrated their roof.

At the other end of the island, in Coral Bay, six-foot waves crashed down on Hudson鈥檚 boat, breaking its mast. At 1 P.M., he felt an anchor line snap, and the boat started taking on water. He knew it was only a matter of minutes until it sank, so he grabbed his savings鈥$5,000 in cash that he kept in a drawer鈥攃rawled onto the bow, and waited until the pulpit disappeared into the water. Then he began to swim for his life, greenbacks in one hand, ball cap in the other.

He estimates that he swallowed a gallon of saltwater during the swim. He reached the shoreline, crawled up to a rock, and clung to it for five hours in the fetal position, shivering and slurping rainwater.

Several islanders say they felt an earthquake at the height of the hurricane. Water rose through sink and shower drains, then disappeared. Walls expanded and contracted. 鈥淚 thought 10 percent of the people on island were going to die,鈥 Daniel Benson told me. 鈥淚 honestly thought that.鈥

Across most of St. John, the storm simmered down between 5 and 6 P.M. The eyewall had passed, and a hurricane鈥檚 outer bands usually bring more rain than wind. But high on Bordeaux Mountain, the island鈥檚 pinnacle at 1,283 feet, the fury was just 颅beginning.

Debby Roberts-Liburd, a grandmother whose family lives on a remote plot above southern Lameshur Bay, counted seven tornadoes between 5:30 P.M. and 1 A.M. She had already watched three relatives鈥 houses get blown apart when her own roof flew away at 10:30 P.M. Then the wind sucked the toilet straight up and out of the bathroom.

鈥淢a,鈥 yelled her son, L.J., 鈥渨e cannot stay in this room, because we all will be sucked out.鈥 As Debby hurried outside to take shelter on the lower floor, L.J. saw a tornado coming and knew she wouldn鈥檛 make it back inside before it arrived. He ran and grabbed her around the waist as she clung to a water drum. 鈥淒on鈥檛 look up,鈥 he said.

The wind lifted Debby鈥檚 legs off the ground and shook her like a fish. 鈥淛ust hold on, Ma!鈥 L.J. said. 鈥淒on鈥檛 loose off, 鈥檆ause if you loose off, two of us gone!鈥

When she felt her grip slipping, Debby prayed. Please, Lord, don鈥檛 let anything cut off my hands. Almost instantly, she heard a ssssssip, and the air went still. She ran inside.


The morning after felt apocalyptic. Not a leaf remained; the islands were so brown that the color even showed up in images from NASA satellites. Bizarre sights filled the landscape. Chopper came out of his house to find his dog eating his cat. Boats were stacked on shore like sticks in a campfire. Desperation set in. Looters ripped out ATMs. My mom worried that her belongings would be ransacked before she got home. Galen heard stories of people getting robbed at gunpoint, and he began sleeping with a spear.

At first, some 2,700 residents were unaccounted for鈥攎ore than half the population. 鈥淚 was getting two to four messages a minute for a while,鈥 says Jon Shames, president of St. John Rescue, a volunteer organization.

In the sailing community, boaters shared news of who they鈥檇 seen and who they hadn鈥檛, in what is known as the Coconut Telegraph. It soon became evident that nobody could find Richard Benson or the Goddess Athena. Daniel Benson spent days using a jury-rigged VHF radio to try and hail his dad. He got no response, but he heard the Coast Guard trying, too, which gave him hope.

Unfortunately, the Atlantic hurricane season was far from over. Two weeks after Irma passed, Maria walloped St. Croix and Puerto Rico鈥攎ajor hubs for the relief effort on St. John. Even though St. John dodged a direct strike, its supply chain was broken.

Richard Benson鈥檚 fate remained a mystery for 19 days, until someone saw a British news story about an unidentified man who was found nine miles northeast of Coral Bay, on Tortola鈥檚 coast, the day after Irma. 鈥淐aucasian, between the ages of 60 and 70, medium build, 5'7 to 5'8 and 160 lbs,鈥 read the description. 鈥淗e had a long blond beard and hair and was wearing blue coveralls like that of a marine engineer when he was found.鈥 Daniel took a helicopter to identify his father at the morgue. He was, remarkably, the only St. John resident to die during the storm.

Not long afterward, Daniel located the Goddess Athena鈥攐r at least the remaining 20 feet of her. The stern, one of 546 shipwrecks left by Irma in the U.S. Virgin Islands, had washed up inside the barrier reef at Johnson Bay, just southwest of Coral Bay. It was a skeleton. The steering wheel and helm were gone, and the interior was gutted except for a light bulb and a speaker. The only thing that Daniel found of his dad鈥檚 was his old underwater camera.

My mother arrived on St. John three weeks after Irma, the day the St. Thomas airport reopened. She spent long hours picking things out of the rubble, which she stored in her car, and doing laundry at a friend鈥檚 house where she was staying. She applied for FEMA aid. She got exhausted quickly and often.

Everyone kept asking what she was going to do, and she didn鈥檛 have an answer. Rebuilding at age 68 with a FEMA loan sounded daunting, but so did the alternative: leaving the island she loved.


I got my first view of St. John two months after Irma, on November 6. Sean and I joined Galen, two friends from Colorado, and my father-in-law to tear down our house to the foundation. Part of me feared the job, not for physical reasons but for emotional ones. Still, the rubble had sat long enough, and we knew Mom would need it gone if she decided to sell the land. (Before she paid off her mortgage five years ago, the bank required her to have hurricane insurance, which cost $18,000 a year. She got rid of the coverage once she settled the debt.)

It鈥檚 strange to take a sledgehammer to your childhood home鈥攄emolishing the kitchen counter and what鈥檚 left of your bedroom walls. But that was better than cleaning out the freezer, which had sat unopened for two months in 85-degree heat. Thousands of rotting maggots combined with shrimp scampi make a strong case for the world鈥檚 foulest smell.

As I broke down walls snared in vines, I couldn鈥檛 help but imagine how the house had come apart. Assuming that the roof went first, the west-facing wall must have been flattened by 200-mile-per-hour winds. The remaining walls likely collapsed after that, then the south deck and railings, everything swept into the bush.

Iguanas watched from the treetops as we shoveled soggy debris into buckets and piled it eight feet high in the driveway. In one shovelful, I collected a remote control, part of the kitchen table, a phone book, chunks of moldy drywall, and a bottle of vinegar. In the next, my high school ID, more moldy drywall, on DVD, and a Christmas card to 鈥淕ram鈥 from Sean鈥檚 kids.

I dug a box out of the mud that contained our grandparents鈥 Kodachrome slides from the 1950s. Mom found her Woodstock ticket stubs. We discovered a plastic bin full of a hundred framed photos from our childhood and hers, somehow sitting dry next to three bins full of water.

On the third day, a neighbor surveyed our work from his still standing deck. 鈥淪ee!鈥 Mom shouted up to him. 鈥淚 told you they鈥檇 come rescue me.鈥 For the first time in weeks, she sounded hopeful.


Despite spending that week on St. John, I knew I had seen only a portion of Irma鈥檚 impact on the region. So in late November I returned, joining local photographer Steve Simonsen on his boat. We motored all over the British Virgin Islands, which neighbor St. John, visiting people who had survived the eye and were now left to rebuild.

One of our first stops was the world-颅renowned Bitter End Yacht Club on the east side of Virgin Gorda, a 64-acre resort spread across a mile of sandy coastline. Sixty of its buildings鈥攊ncluding 40 rental villas鈥攚ere destroyed. 鈥淚t has to be totally reimagined,鈥 John Glynn, a marketing executive, told me.

We pulled up to the dock and met Henry Prince, a 20-year employee and Virgin Gorda native who guessed that it would take at least three years for Bitter End to look anything like it did before the storm. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not going to rebuild it the way it was. You have to rebuild it for the new type of hurricane,鈥 he said.

A long two-by-six beam had pierced the roof like a javelin and missed his son鈥檚 head by inches, spraying his hair with wood chips.

We headed across North Sound past Necker Island, where Sir Richard Branson has weathered every hurricane for the past 40 years. He told me that 300 of his private island鈥檚 600 flamingos survived winds that broke his anemometer when they hit 210 miles per hour. We stopped for lunch at Leverick Bay, one of the most devastated communities, where four out of every five buildings had been blown apart. Marina manager Nick Willis was sipping a beer on his deck when I found him. He told me about the damage but also how Irma had brought out the best in people. Like the rich Czech guy from Nail Bay who had paid hundreds of locals $10 an hour to work on their homes after the storm. Or the man who had boated up to the marina and handed Willis $100, asking only that he give it to someone who needed it. 鈥淚t just brings you to tears,鈥 Willis said.

We drove around Tortola with Chino, my old baseball coach, who mentors island kids and lives in Cane Garden Bay, a port famous for its beachfront restaurants, all of which were destroyed. We saw where the ocean had ripped graves out of the earth in Carrot Bay and flipped a 99-ton ferry upside down on Jost Van Dyke. We gaped at a battered airplane fuselage鈥攚ithout its wings or tail鈥攂alanced atop a ruined hangar at the Beef Island airport. I heard rumors that the British military measured gusts up to 285 miles per hour. (The unofficial wind speed record is 318 miles per hour, set by a 1999 tornado in Oklahoma City.)

None of the sights, however, compared with what we found on Cooper Island, a tiny cay off the south shore of Tortola. As we neared a concrete dock, an old West Indian woman walked toward us holding a knife above her head. I got off the boat and approached her slowly, introducing myself and asking if I could talk to her about Irma. 鈥淥f course. Come in!鈥 she said. She led me and Simonsen toward a makeshift white tent鈥攁ctually a sail draped over some coconut trees. A frail-looking man limped along the beach to meet us.

Jean and John Leonard explained that they weathered Irma right here at sea level. Jean, 84, came from Trinidad so long ago that she鈥檇 forgotten the year. John, 90, was born on Cooper Island and had lived here all his life. Before Irma they had eight boats and 15 fish pots just offshore. Like many Virgin Islanders, they鈥檇 seen their share of hurricanes and did not fear them, so when a boat arrived to take them to Tortola, they declined.

Their son, who lives on Tortola, sent his 15-year-old boy to stay with them during the storm, in case they needed some muscle. Soon after the deluge began, a sea grape tree fell on their roof, followed by a coconut palm. The house began to break apart. Ten-foot waves combined with the fast-rising surge almost pinned the Leonards to the bed they were hiding under. Their grandson kicked down the door, and they ran outside. As the wind and ocean raged, John turned to his wife of 54 years. 鈥淚 can鈥檛 make it anymore,鈥 he said. He lay down in the water. Jean grabbed a pile of dry clothes she鈥檇 stored in a drum and propped them under his head to keep him from drowning.

The next day, when their son came to check on them, he was stunned. 鈥淗e say he didn鈥檛 expect to see we alive,鈥 Jean told me in her Trinidadian accent. 鈥淗e didn鈥檛 expect to see we at all.鈥

Two dogs and hundreds of ducks, many still limping from Irma, scurried around in the sand next to an outboard motor and various buoys. Bags of corn for their animals鈥攖hey also have more than 80 goats, which they sell to a butcher on Tortola鈥攚ere stacked on the dock. I couldn鈥檛 help but notice a second sail fashioned into an A-frame, 50 feet down the beach. I walked over and peeked inside, seeing two old mattresses on rickety frames under the sail. This was where the Leonards were sleeping. Before the Royal Marines brought them sails, they鈥檇 slept in the open.


The Virgin Islands听face an uncertain future. The first three months after Irma were focused on solving basic problems and getting electricity restored. It helped that, in addition to local organizations, longtime St. John second-home owners Tom Secunda鈥攁 billionaire cofounder of Bloomberg鈥攁nd country-music star Kenny Chesney launched extensive relief and evacuation assistance. (By the end of the exodus, most believed that St John鈥檚 population had been cut in half.) FEMA had contributed nearly $300 million to the islands by mid-颅December, including loans, and at one point Virgin Islands National Park requested $68 million in hopes of catalyzing economic progress on St. John. 鈥淭he challenge is keeping this place on the radar for the American public and also for Congress,鈥 acting park superintendent Darrell Echols told me.

The long-term environmental fallout is unknowable. It took more than three months for the dangerously high levels of bacteria, possibly from runoff tainted by septic backups, to clear up on two popular north-shore beaches, Maho and Oppenheimer. The coral reefs have been stressed by the same runoff. One scientist told me that it could take decades for the red mangroves to recover.

As for reconstruction, David Rosa, an engineer who lives and works on St. John, said that he expects a change in building codes because of Irma. Currently, everything must be constructed to withstand 165-mile-per-hour winds. 鈥淚t wouldn鈥檛 surprise me if they went up to 180 or even higher,鈥 Rosa said. Still, stronger buildings are more expensive: one-inch rebar, for example, costs six times as much as half-inch.

The most important question is how and when tourism will rebound. Five of the resorts on St. John were still closed in early February, and the two biggest, Caneel Bay and the Westin, don鈥檛 expect to reopen until 2019. Arthur Jones, owner of Arawak Expeditions, said that he expects to lose two-thirds of his business over the next year. 鈥淲e are a tourism-based economy, and when tourists don鈥檛 come, we are going to be hurting,鈥 Jones said.

鈥淭hings are going to change here,鈥 said Miles Stair, an old friend who has lived on St. John for 46 years. 鈥淧eople will go, people will come. Are we going to have fewer restaurants? Are we going to see fewer tourist dollars? Is that good, bad, somewhere in between? I think it鈥檒l be years before we really gain a perspective.鈥

Richard Branson, who likened Irma鈥檚 damage to a nuclear strike, is leading an effort to unite the region so it will be less vulnerable to future storms. It鈥檚 called the Caribbean Climate-Smart Coalition, and he views it as a sort of Marshall Plan for the region. The goal: get the Caribbean islands鈥攊ncluding the U.S. and British Virgin Islands鈥斅璻ecategorized as a bloc, so they can receive lower-interest loans faster and better insurance terms. 鈥淚t鈥檚 much easier for, say, the World Bank to deal with all the islands at once instead of lots of individual islands,鈥 says Branson, who was forced to cancel bookings at his Necker 颅

Island resort through September 2018.

As for the likelihood of more megastorms hitting the Virgin Islands, it鈥檚 one aspect of climate change that scientists disagree about. In general, most believe鈥攁nd the models agree鈥攖hat we will see fewer Atlantic cyclones. But when conditions align, they could bring monsters.


Infrastructure aside, Irma鈥檚 remaining wounds are personal. Galen鈥檚 wife and daughter left St. John four weeks after the storm and will probably remain off island through the school year. They鈥檙e far from the only family living a fractured existence.

鈥淟ife is hard all over again,鈥 said Adam Hudson, the sailor who lost his boat in Hugo and then another in Irma, over a beer on the Coral Bay waterfront.

Daniel Benson was still processing his father鈥檚 fate when I met him one afternoon at Hart Bay. We walked out to the rocky point and sat next to the break where Sean and I had learned to surf. With his blond dreadlocks tucked under a bandana and tattoos honoring his roots鈥擴-S-V-I across his left fingers and Love City, Cruz Bay鈥檚 nickname, on his thigh鈥擠aniel pondered what happened to his dad.

He lay down in the water. Jean grabbed a pile of dry clothes she鈥檇 stored in a drum and propped them under his head to keep him from drowning.

Benson was believed to have had ten large anchors securing the roughly 40-ton Goddess Athena, so the fact that his boat was found elsewhere means he must have cut his lines. But why? Though friends have differing opinions, Daniel believes his dad lost his dinghy and couldn鈥檛 get to shore as the storm picked up. And if his anchors then started dragging, he may have decided to fire up the 200-horsepower diesel engine and roll the dice in the open ocean rather than be smashed on the rocks in the bay.

鈥淚 think he made it pretty far south, then a wave took him,鈥 Daniel said. 鈥淚 can only imagine hanging on to a steering wheel while duck-颅diving 20 feet of solid water. I just wonder how many waves he dove through before he finally said fuck it. Or maybe he didn鈥檛. Maybe the waves just broke the helm right off.鈥

In late November, a St. John Rescue truck carrying Benson鈥檚 remains led a procession through Cruz Bay. People lined the streets to say goodbye. 鈥淚 know everybody says my situation is maybe heavier than what they went through,鈥 Daniel said, 鈥渂ut from my perspective, the woman who crawled out from underneath her collapsed house in the middle of the storm, who barely had enough room to breathe, I think she went through something heavier than me in the storm. The girl who had to run out of her house because it exploded and got into a car, then had to go to another car because the first one exploded鈥︹ He trailed off. 鈥淓verybody has experienced a whole different kind of crazy with this hurricane.鈥

Sean and I have tried our best to support our mom after Irma. She put her property up for sale in early December, and she鈥檚 spending the winter near us in Colorado. In her bedroom, a sign reads Don鈥檛 look back. You鈥檙e not going that way.

It was hard for her to admit to people that she was leaving. So much of her identity is tied to St. John and enduring life on a volcanic rock in the middle of the ocean. I tried to remind her that the results were out of her control. As Galen said, 鈥淲e鈥檙e like the fleas on a dog, and we got hit by the paw.鈥

A handful of friends whose homes survived told me that they feel ashamed when people ask how they fared. Mom understands, despite landing on the opposite side of that fate. 鈥淚n some ways, I鈥檓 sad that I wasn鈥檛 actually here for the storms. I鈥檝e thought of that a lot,鈥 she said one night at dinner. 鈥溾夆楳issed out鈥 isn鈥檛 the right phrase, but I鈥檝e imagined what it must鈥檝e been like, even though it鈥檚 unimaginable.鈥

It鈥檚 a weird feeling to know that I can鈥檛 go home anymore. I think about sitting on our deck and watching the sunset, picking ripe passion fruit off our vine, hearing the roosters crow each morning. But I remind myself that the island will always be there.

One afternoon in late November, on our way back from the British Virgin Islands, Simonsen and I stopped at the Baths, a famous boulder-strewn beach on Virgin Gorda where you can swim in caves and jump off rocks and nap on soft white sand. Like most beaches in the wake of Irma, it was empty and stunning. I did some bouldering and squeezed through a couple of caves, then jumped into the water to cool off. A family of four, including two boys under ten, snorkeled by. I asked the father where they were from. 鈥淥riginally the UK,鈥 he said, before gesturing toward the lone sailboat in the bay. 鈥淩ight now we鈥檙e living aboard.鈥

I smiled to myself and told him they were lucky boys.

国产吃瓜黑料 correspondent Devon O鈥橬eil wrote about mountaineer and photographer Cory Richards in August 2017.

The post Hurricane Irma Destroyed My Childhood Paradise appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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