La Sportiva Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/la-sportiva/ Live Bravely Sun, 25 Dec 2022 05:27:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png La Sportiva Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/la-sportiva/ 32 32 Athlete Sponsorship Programs Are Broken. Here鈥檚 How We Can Fix Them. /business-journal/issues/athlete-sponsorship-programs-are-broken-heres-how-we-can-fix-them/ Tue, 31 Aug 2021 01:31:34 +0000 /?p=2567184 Athlete Sponsorship Programs Are Broken. Here鈥檚 How We Can Fix Them.

Today鈥檚 athlete sponsorships are rife with dangerous pressure, inequality, and unfair compensation. It鈥檚 time for things to change.

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Athlete Sponsorship Programs Are Broken. Here鈥檚 How We Can Fix Them.

On April 16, 2019, David Lama, Hansj枚rg Auer, and Jess Roskelley died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockies. All three were on The North Face climbing team.

At the time, the trio was seeking the second ascent of a route called M-16, which had been climbed once, back in 1999. The first ascensionists described pitches of overhanging ice, blinding spindrift, and collapsing cornices that nearly killed one of their party.

But in alpine climbing, unrepeated routes are rare trophies, and Lama, Auer, and Roskelley were some of the best in the world. Why wouldn鈥檛 The North Face give them its blessing? And perhaps the brand was right to do so; according to photos recovered from Roskelley鈥檚 phone, the three made it to the summit. That was before the avalanche.

From left: David Lama, Hansjorg Auer, and Jess Roskelley. (Photos: The North Face)

When I heard the news, I grieved with the rest of the climbing community. In the past few years, I鈥檝e lost two friends to the mountains. This tragedy felt too familiar.

I wondered if Lama, Auer, and Roskelley would have chosen to team up if it weren鈥檛 for the convenience of sharing a sponsor. If they would have picked a less hazardous route if they hadn鈥檛 been vying with other athletes for The North Face鈥檚 limited pool of funding. If they would have turned back earlier had Roskelley and Lama not been so new to The North Face鈥檚 team鈥攐nly about a year each鈥攁nd perhaps still trying to prove themselves. If they would have called it sooner if not for the expenses already incurred.

Hadley Hammer, Lama鈥檚 girlfriend and an eight-year member of The North Face ski team, believes Lama鈥檚 motivations on Howse Peak were purely intrinsic. The North Face global sports marketing director Jamie Starr added that, for many years, the brand has had a rigorous team peer review process for expeditions and is careful to never put any external pressure on athletes to take undue risk鈥攊ncluding on Howse Peak. Still, these are familiar worries for many athletes. And there are other concerns with the current sponsorship system, particularly for winter ambassadors who have only a short season with uncertain conditions to accomplish many contractual obligations, Hammer said.

鈥淭wo of my three injuries occurred while filming,鈥 she explained, noting that it鈥檚 impossible to say whether they would have happened without a camera present. Both injuries left her with medical debt, which she was left to pay on her own. 鈥淲hile there isn鈥檛 direct pressure to perform crazy stunts, there remains an inevitable pressure,鈥 she said. 鈥淎nd I don鈥檛 think it has to be that way.鈥

When these three men died, The North Face, by all accounts, rose to the occasion, footing the bill for loved ones鈥 flights and travel expenses. Providing therapy and support. Paying for the funerals.

None of this was required鈥攁thlete contracts rarely mention, let alone cover, such expenses. And all of it is certainly costly to a brand. The North Face stepped up, said Hammer. It did the right thing, handling it all in just the right way.

But while members of The North Face team certainly grieved, the brand, through no fault of its own, ultimately emerged looking like a hero, its reputation untarnished.

Stories like this highlight the imbalances that exist in the sponsorship equation. Today, controversy accompanies everything from how athletes are selected, to their role in hitting a brand鈥檚 DEI targets, to the contracts they sign. As that equation becomes more critical to the success of outdoor brands, it may be time to rethink it.

A Broken Model

When news broke of the tragedy on Howse Peak, Horst Eidenm眉ller, a law professor at the University of Oxford, was in the midst of examining some of the same questions about the hidden pressures athletes face. In August and September of 2018, he conducted interviews with 40 sponsored athletes across a range of adventure sports, from alpine climbing to big-mountain skiing to freestyle motocross, and later published his findings in the Marquette Sports Law Review.

Eidenm眉ller鈥檚 conclusion: 鈥淭hese contracts are unbalanced,鈥 he said. 鈥淪ponsors鈥攍et me be blunt鈥攖hey are ripping off the athletes.鈥 The trouble is that athletes are easy prey; most interviewees told Eidenm眉ller that they鈥檙e more passionate about their sports than they are about money. That lets brands get away with paying them, on average, $5,000 to $20,000 a year for what often amounts to a quarter- to half-time job. That鈥檚 barely enough to cover their training, health care, avalanche education, and other expenses. Even top-tier athletes like Alex Honnold, who make salaries somewhere in the six-figure range, are a steal, Eidenm眉ller said.

That鈥檚 because marketing today relies heavily on personality, dynamic storytelling, and dialogue, explained Jonathan Retseck. Retseck is a founder and managing partner of talent management firm RXR Sports and represents an impressive roster of outdoor industry bigwigs, like Jimmy Chin, Alex Honnold, Scott Jurek, and Kate Courtney. 鈥淲e鈥檙e also seeing more and more consulting work integrated into [athlete] contracts,鈥 Retseck added, explaining that brands increasingly rely on athletes to help develop new products, provide design input, and shape marketing campaigns. 鈥淎ll of that is extremely valuable to a brand.鈥

Just how valuable? From his analysis of annual revenues and marketing budgets of some top sponsors, Eidenm眉ller estimated that big international brands are making as much as millions of dollars in additional revenue from their household-name athletes. Compared to that, he said, even a six-figure salary is a paltry sum.

鈥淭he picture that emerges is that of a market tilted heavily towards satisfying the interests of the sponsors,鈥 Eidenm眉ller said.

Thanks to the COVID-19 boost, the outdoor sector is booming. That influx of revenue has allowed more brands to create athlete teams or expand existing ones. And thanks to the recent push for brands to improve representation of diverse adventurers, athlete teams have been hauled even further into the spotlight.

After all, athletes are the faces of a brand. They鈥檙e also usually inexpensive, on short contracts (typically just one to three years), and easy to turn over to meet the needs of the day.

According to two former La Sportiva athletes who asked to remain anonymous for fear of being passed over for future sponsorships, La Sportiva dropped about half its North American athlete team鈥攃lose to 45 people鈥攅arlier this year via a mass email. A number of the new 2021 La Sportiva athletes are people of color and best known for being outspoken on social media on issues of race and social justice.

鈥淲e reviewed our current situation and future plans and ultimately made some tough calls,鈥 said Quinn Carrasco, marketing manager for La Sportiva North America. 鈥淚t鈥檚 been a huge learning process.鈥 The brand primarily offers athletes one-year contracts, requires regular social media posts in exchange for gear, and offers no monetary compensation to most ambassadors. La Sportiva dropped a similar percentage of athletes in 2020. Carrasco said it鈥檚 hard to let ambassadors go but that turnover is an inevitable part of any athlete program and will naturally fluctuate from year to year.

Steve House, a legendary alpinist who now consults for brands building athlete teams, explained that this high-quantity, high-turnover system does make sense for some brands.

鈥淭he thing is that you have no idea who鈥檚 going to pan out,鈥 he said. 鈥淵ou have 100 athletes and one of them is going to be Alex Honnold, and you have no idea which one.鈥

Mentorship Over Sponsorship

Scarpa CEO Kim Miller, who is Asian American, also noticed a hole in the demographics of Scarpa鈥檚 athlete team in 2020. But for Miller, the answer wasn鈥檛 to bring on a host of green, unvetted athletes.

鈥淭he first thing I realized was that there just aren鈥檛 many people of color in our outdoor sports, industry, and community,鈥 Miller said. 鈥淎nd the second thing is that you can鈥檛 just walk into a field and say, 鈥楪row, plants, grow!鈥 These things really have to be developed.鈥

For Miller, the answer was to start a mentorship program for up-and-coming athletes. The program would allow the brand to both maintain existing relationships with its athletes and give new athletes the resources they need to navigate the industry, advance in their respective sports, and market themselves effectively.

Called the Scarpa Athlete Mentorship Initiative, or SAMI, the six-month program matches each mentee with an existing Scarpa athlete. It also provides mentees with gear and networking opportunities. However, mentees aren鈥檛 required to use or post about Scarpa gear; there are no strings attached, Miller explained. 鈥淭his was never about creating more athletes on our team.鈥

Aidan Goldie, a science teacher, ski mountaineer, and diversity advocate based in Carbondale, Colorado, was selected as part of the inaugural SAMI class. He and his mentor, Chris Davenport, ski together and text on a regular basis.

AtAthlete sponsoshiphlete sponsoship
Scarpa mentee Aidan Goldie skis with his mentor, Chris Davenport, near Aspen, Colorado. (Photo: Fred Marmsater)

鈥淚t鈥檚 a really intentional program that makes sure these athletes from diverse backgrounds are set up for success,鈥 Goldie said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 given me a lot of connections in the industry. And Chris has been a great resource.鈥

The mentorship program, he said, is doing exactly what it set out to: bridge historic inequities by lifting new voices up.

The Third Model

Over the past year, a third model of sponsorship has emerged: eschewing the somewhat elitist idea of the athlete altogether and instead sponsoring changemakers from diverse backgrounds who can speak to new audiences and untapped markets.

Backcountry pioneered that model when it launched its Breaking Trail program this April. Instead of scrambling to start new relationships with people of color, which could come off as tokenizing, the brand moved to sponsor seven prominent advocates and community leaders with whom it had already built close relationships.

While plenty of outdoor brands had partnered with culturally diverse advocates for occasional campaigns, this reimagined take on sponsorship broke new ground. Ambassadors were selected not based on past ascents or expeditions, but on their nonprofit involvement. And the brand intends to add new ambassadors and build upon the program in the future.

Diversity Without Exploitation

Widening the definition of who can be a sponsored athlete is certainly a big step when it comes to inclusivity, but it doesn鈥檛 solve the power imbalances that Eidenm眉ller uncovered in his research. And some athletes believe the shift could exacerbate those imbalances.

After all, the current structure tends to provide less compensation to athletes who 鈥渁chieve鈥 less. But today, the role of an athlete isn鈥檛 just to tag summits, and some, like Andrew Alexander King, worry that the other, equally important work will go undercompensated.

King, who is African American, is a sponsored mountaineer pursuing the Seven Summits.

鈥淚 think athletes of color are often taken advantage of,鈥 he said. Part of that is because, due to historic inequities, athletes of color are less likely to have had the resources to understand how the sponsorship system works and negotiate effectively. 鈥淭hink of it like a race,鈥 he said. 鈥淎thletes of color have been standing outside the stadium, and the world has just let them in. But the race has already started, and by now, an athlete of privilege is already two laps ahead.鈥

In that sense, if the athlete is climbing or skiing at a lower level than an athlete from a privileged background, it鈥檚 perfectly reasonable, and shouldn鈥檛 result in fewer opportunities.

Plus, there鈥檚 the matter of supply and demand, King said. Athletes of color are few and far between, and right now an image of a Black man climbing in branded gear is extremely valuable. Many boilerplate contracts, which include lifetime licensing for images, don鈥檛 reflect that. So, when King talks to a potential sponsor, he starts by demanding changes.

鈥淵ou can have my photos for one year,鈥 he said. 鈥淎ny time after that you have to re-sign or go through contracts. If you put my face up in 2023 without my consent, you鈥檙e profiting off that, which is exploiting my story and my culture to benefit your profits.鈥

Brands, he said, would do well to listen. Or, better yet, offer athletes of color what they鈥檙e worth in the first place.

Calling for Change

King鈥檚 negotiations often catch sponsors by surprise. That鈥檚 because, Eidenm眉ller said, brands hold all the power in those conversations; they鈥檙e not used to negotiation.

Mentorship, 脿 la Scarpa鈥檚 SAMI program, could help bridge that power gap and give young athletes the tools they need to negotiate with confidence. More transparency around contract terms and salaries, which are currently guarded as 鈥減roprietary,鈥 would also give athletes and brands the information they need to reach fair terms.

While Eidenm眉ller believes athlete contracting would most benefit from regulatory oversight, he said the faster, more practical solution is for brands to take responsibility for the outsized power they hold over athletes. The onus should be on them to carefully spell out all the implications for new athletes or ambassadors, and to offer the stability of longer contracts, increased and stable financial compensation, and/or health insurance whenever possible.

Where the Responsibility Lies

As for limiting risk?

鈥淚 think athletes bear some responsibility to know their own limits, and to know them before they鈥檙e in a place where those limits are being tested,鈥 Hammer said. 鈥淧lus, it鈥檚 the athletes [who are] coming up with these ideas. We鈥檙e asking the brand to support us. Even if The North Face or other brands scaled back [on their interest in dangerous expeditions], I don鈥檛 know if we would.鈥

Athlete sponsorship
Backcountry launched its new ambassador team, the first of its kind, this April. (Photo: Wyn Wiley/Pattie Gonia)

Difficult realities are easier to absorb if we have someone to blame. Preferably, a faceless entity with deep pockets. But deep down, I know Hammer is right.

At least one of the friends I lost in the mountains was chasing a personal speed record at the time of his death. Eventually, he hoped to be sponsored. But both friends had gone out, first and foremost, in search of the sublime. In a world without funding, social media, or external gratification, they would have done it anyway.

As La Sportiva鈥檚 Carrasco said, 鈥淯ltimately, our goal with sponsorship is just to align projects鈥攚e want to work with people who are highly motivated. When our goals align with theirs, that鈥檚 when we can help each other out.鈥

But even if brands don鈥檛 push their athletes or demand certain objectives, they are still in the business of selecting and paying people with enough passion and grit to push those limits. For that reason, contracts need to clearly stipulate who is responsible when the worst happens, Eidenm眉ller said. If someone gets injured or sick, how long until they have to be performing again? If someone dies in the mountains, who foots the bill?

The Future of Sponsorship

As brands get bigger and add to their athlete rosters, more people than ever before will be sponsored in some way, Eidenm眉ller said. The market will grow more competitive as it crowds with voices talking up their own achievements鈥攁nd more jaded as audiences wisen to influencer marketing, which right now, House said, is likely coming off the peak of its popularity.

鈥淚 think the reality is that social media influencers don鈥檛 have much influence,鈥 he said. 鈥淎udiences today can see right through those sponsored posts. The reality is that they just don鈥檛 work.鈥 In the future, he expects the age of the social media influencer to fizzle, and for authenticity to once again dominate the playing field.

This presents a golden opportunity for brands to get ahead of the shift and select athletes who are both champions of their sport and genuine pillars of their community鈥攏ot just salespeople. To do that right, they鈥檙e going to need to allocate more marketing budget to find the right ambassadors, build quality relationships, and compensate them like they would any other employee, said King.

Quality over quantity鈥攊n how athletes engage with their communities and how brands treat their ambassadors鈥攊s about to become the rule of the day. And the brands that figure that out fastest will come out on top.

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The Push to Make the Ski Industry More Sustainable /business-journal/issues/fresh-tracks/ Sat, 06 Mar 2021 05:03:50 +0000 /?p=2568225 The Push to Make the Ski Industry More Sustainable

A handful of smaller snowsports brands lead the industry in greener production practices. Can everyone else catch up?

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The Push to Make the Ski Industry More Sustainable

In 2017, Matt Sterbenz was heading up a company he鈥檇 founded, 4FRNT, a successful ski brand known for launching the freeskiing movement. 4FRNT鈥檚 skis are crisp, light, and torsionally stiff鈥攁nd, like pretty much all skis, they鈥檙e also made of materials that are horrendous for the environment. The vast majority of the brands constructing the tools that move us across snow use some of the most polluting materials on the planet, such as petroleum-based resins, plastics, and carbon fiber. Sterbenz had to use these, too, because no alternative had yet been created. But a businessman named Charles Dimmler was about to hand him a solution.

Dimmler is the founder of Checkerspot, a company that uses algae to bio-manufacture oils that can be used in polyurethanes and textile coatings. Polyurethane makes up the plastic components in a typical ski, and it鈥檚 traditionally made of petroleum-based chemicals, so it has a large environmental footprint: According to one German lifecycle assessment, the production of a single ski emits about 60 pounds of carbon (in comparison, burning one gallon of gasoline emits 20 pounds). Ski manufacturing also typically has a very large water footprint, a long supply chain, and generates huge amounts of waste. The irony is striking: Building skis and other winter hardgoods contributes significantly to the climate change wreaking havoc on our ski seasons.

But Dimmler and Sterbenz were about to make a breakthrough. The company that emerged from their collaboration, WNDR Alpine, uses renewable energy to fashion boards with sustainably harvested aspen wood from Utah and polyurethane made from algae, not petroleum. The brand is also reducing waste in its manufacturing process (in 2020, WNDR diverted 1,200 pounds of trash from the landfill). Its efforts seem to be resonating with consumers: Last year, WNDR sold out of the most popular sizes of its Intention 110 backcountry ski. And in 2021, with backcountry skiing predicted to explode (see p. 33), the company expects the same.

WNDR isn鈥檛 the first snowsports brand to innovate with the environment in mind. In Europe, Capita Snowboards鈥 factory runs on 100 percent green energy, and Grown Skis uses eco-friendlier basalt instead of carbon fiber, sustainably harvested wood, and glues made from pine tree resin. Among U.S. brands, Mervin and Niche lead the way. Niche, founded in 2010, builds its snowboards from sustainably harvested wood cut near its factory in Utah, uses basalt as well, and digitally prints its top sheets using water-based inks. It also partnered with a company called Entropy Resins to create its patented Snappy Sap Bioresin, made of renewable materials from the industrial waste streams of the paper pulp and biofuels industries.

Mervin (parent company of Lib Tech, Gnu, and Roxy) uses the eco-friendliest materials available, produces zero hazardous waste, and runs its operation primarily on wind and hydroelectric power. It also formed an extensive recycling program, as well as a sawdust-to-soil compost program. Together, such innovations have taken these brands to the next level in eco-friendly manufacturing. What will it take for everyone else to catch up?

Too Big鈥攁nd Small鈥攖o Change

Some big ski brands are taking steps to make the hardgoods industry greener. Atomic鈥檚 North American Brand Manager Sean Kennedy said, 鈥淎tomic uses tons, literally tons, of recycled plastics in our ski boot assortment. We also power all of our ski presses with reclaimed wood [from factory scraps], and the excess heat from this process is then recaptured to heat our entire factory and adjacent facilities.鈥

Vo虉lkl has eliminated hazardous substances from many stages of production. Rossignol uses wood cores from certified sustainable sources in its Black Ops skis, 100 percent recycled steel in its edges, and 30-percent recycled plastic in the bases. And La Sportiva switched from carbon to wood in all of its skis, and is using FSC-certified woods for the 2021 line.

Yet the vast majority of brands use plastics and resins made from toxic petrochemicals. Experts estimate it can take 500 to 1,000 years for these materials to decompose in a landfill. So brands still aren鈥檛 addressing one of the industry鈥檚 key environmental hazards.

鈥淎s an industry with a future dependent on consistent winters, our industry is uniting around climate change and we’re working hard to give every brand opportunities to step up to meaningfully address it,鈥 said Chris Steinkamp, director of advocacy for Snowsports Industries of America鈥檚 ClimateUnited initiative.

But 鈥渟tepping up鈥 isn鈥檛 that simple, said WNDR co-founder Xan Marshland: 鈥淓conomically, our industry is a drop in the bucket compared to larger ones, like aerospace or automotive. There鈥檚 not much incentive to innovate beyond what鈥檚 already available.鈥 According to NPD, the ski and snowboard industry generates $2.3 billion in annual revenue (compared to, say, the apparel industry鈥檚 $368 billion).

And even if suppliers did make changes, 鈥渓arger brands will require more time to get adequate infrastructure set up to support a new [production] process,鈥 said Marshland. For larger brands, which can produce more than a million pairs of skis every year, obtaining enough green materials also appears to be a challenge. Niche, for example, uses a resin-hardener called Recyclamine that allows skis and snowboards to be fully recycled. 鈥淚鈥檓 not sure the supply chain is large enough yet for everyone to be able to switch,鈥 said founder Ana Van Pelte.

The Upside of Small

In some ways, greening a company is easier for new brands that are starting from the ground up. Mervin founder Pete Saari said, 鈥淲orking towards sustainability and nontoxic, recyclable boards has been part of Mervin鈥檚 DNA since we began in the early 鈥80s. We knew we were going to be building every day, so we didn鈥檛 want to work with toxic resins or materials for personal safety and health reasons.鈥

The brand was broke when it started, Saari says. 鈥淸But while] scarcity and 鈥榥o money鈥 sounds bad, when it comes to creating motivation to maximize material usage, it鈥檚 a strength.鈥 From the beginning, Mervin was able to 鈥渟cour the world of materials,鈥 looking for ones that met both the company鈥檚 performance and sustainability standards. Today, it鈥檚 a profitable business.

And now WNDR has created a line of skis with its AlgalTech technology, using plastics derived from oils secreted by microalgae. These plastics replace conventional materials derived from fossil fuels (carbon fiber, plastic, polyurethane), and create a ski that has a short supply line, high performance, and a lower impact on the environment than traditional skis.

But all of these companies still impact the environment simply by manufacturing something. That鈥檚 why Cyrus Schenck, founder of Renoun Skis, believes there is no such thing as a truly green ski (or snowboard). In his view, the best thing skiers can do is ride the skis they already own longer. 鈥淭he average lifespan of a pair of skis is 100 days, yet the average American skis 2.7 days a year,鈥 he said. Most buy skis far more often than once every 37 years.

Schenck scoffs at the idea of stopping ski production entirely, 鈥渂ut a company can offset skis and shipping by buying carbon credits,鈥 he said. Renoun does what it can to green up its manufacturing, but ultimately, Schenck believes the best way brands can minimize impact is by encouraging skiers to ride their boards longer and participate in takeback programs (which WNDR offers) when they鈥檙e done.

Getting It Done

Of course, creating products with dramatically lower environmental impacts and encouraging customers to use them longer aren鈥檛 mutually exclusive. And Mervin, Niche, and WNDR believe that it鈥檚 possible for other companies鈥攊ncluding long-established ones鈥攖o make changes to shrink their environmental footprints.

The main excuses from bigger brands? Cost, accessibility, and scalability. Four decades after starting Mervin, Saari said, 鈥淓ven today we find there is some resistance from the business community on sustainable efforts, with [some] studies by business experts saying that consumer purchasing decisions aren鈥檛 significantly impacted by environmental efforts or practices.鈥

Niche鈥檚 Van Pelte added, 鈥淚 don鈥檛 want to name any names, but bigger companies than ours have the money and resources to do more and better than we do, and their failure to act on pushing the technology further is really unfortunate. They should be putting their money where their mouths are and stepping up to the plate, if they truly care about the environment as much as they claim to.鈥

WNDR, for one, is willing to share its technologies for the greater good. 鈥淪ix or seven brands throughout the snowboard and ski space鈥 have reached out about partnerships to incorporate AlgalTech into their product lines, said marketing director Pep Fujas. This bodes well for giving greener skis a bigger share of the market.

And though it may take time, Van Pelte believes the environmental methods Niche and others use 鈥渁re absolutely stuff that anyone could adopt and put into practice. It might be more expensive, but the more people who adopt it, the easier and more affordable it will become.鈥

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The Puzzle of Inventory During the Pandemic /business-journal/retailers/the-puzzle-of-inventory-during-the-pandemic/ Sat, 07 Nov 2020 06:14:12 +0000 /?p=2568806 The Puzzle of Inventory During the Pandemic

2020 has been a year of supreme uncertainly for specialty retail. Empty shelves, cancelled orders, and lopsided demand have forced shop owners to get creative to meet customers needs. Here's what several retail owners say about the challenges they've faced.

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The Puzzle of Inventory During the Pandemic

“If there’s any pattern to all this, it’s to聽expect delays. Which categories, brands, or products鈥攖hat’s anybody’s guess. It’s best to just assume everything will be delayed and end up pleasantly surprised if it’s not.”

That’s Eastside Sports owner Todd Vogel’s take on the state of inventory challenges at this point in the pandemic, nearly eight months in.

“If there’s a delay, you pivot. Delay, pivot,” said Vogel, whose shop is based in Bishop, California. “That strategy has kept us going. It’s all about flexibility.”

It’s no secret that sellers of outdoor goods have been scrambling this year, trying to keep pace with a retail landscape strained by聽supply chain disruptions, rapid shutdowns, unpredictable demand, and other hardships. Still, one way or another, many retailers are finding ways to keep their shelves stocked鈥攖o some degree鈥攁nd customers happy.

To figure out what retailers are seeing on the ground level, and how they’re coping, we got in touch with several shop owners and buyers to ask about what’s going right, what’s going wrong, and how everyone is bracing for the upcoming season.

What’s Causing Problems

To start things off, we wanted to know about specific pain points. In some sense, we were looking for a pattern, but that exercise quickly proved futile. After speaking with shop owners in several different states, the moral of the story seems to be that there’s no rhyme or reason to what goods or which brands are causing inventory problems on a consistent basis. All the retailers we spoke with say they’re trying their best to prepare for anything.

“Our biggest vendor overall is Patagonia,” said Sam Barg, a buyer at Ute Mountaineer in Aspen, Colorado. “Those orders have come in anywhere from 20 to 50 percent complete.聽They can鈥檛 promise anything. But then other stuff trickles in that we didn鈥檛 expect. Our reps have no idea what’s happening either. Week to week, we have to reassess and chase what we can.”

Barg says Ute Mountaineer has seen cancellations from at least half a dozen vendors that are critical to the shop’s core inventory: Patagonia, Kuhl, Columbia, prAna, Hoka One One, Black Diamond, and Sorrell.

“Those are the big brands a lot of people have had trouble with,” he said.

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Ute Mountaineer in Aspen, Colorado, says its had inventory problems with Patagonia, Kuhl, Columbia, prAna, Hoka, Black Diamond, and Sorrell, among others. (Photo: Courtesy)

Marinna Merkel, co-owner of Round House Ski and Sports Center in Bozeman, Montana, says she’s also had a lot of trouble with Patagonia and The North Face.

“Patagonia’s Powder Bowl Pant always does great for our store, and I can鈥檛 get them, none. That鈥檚 a staple piece for Patagonia, so it says something about where they’re at,” Merkel said. She also says the company expects not to see the bulk of its winter order from The North Face come through until late November鈥攁 huge problem for getting product out the door before ski season starts.

Across the state in Missoula, Todd Frank, owner of The Trail Head, says he’s experienced similar cuts from Patagonia.

“Patagonia is our biggest vendor. They cut about 40 percent of our pre-season order, but customer demand also dropped, so it evened out,” Frank said. “This year, we’re making a lot of concessions with product鈥攁ccepting different colors than we wanted, things like that鈥攂ut we’ve found that people are less picky about color and other small details these days. They’re willing to support us, even if they can’t get the exact product they want.”

Down in Flagstaff, Arizona, Steve Chatinsky says he’s had a lot of trouble with survival items his shop, Peace Surplus.

“I ran out of Reliance water containers for two weeks. We鈥檝e had three or four shipments of those since the summer, and we usually do one per year,” Chatinsky said. “We鈥檝e been a little slow on freeze dried food, too. We went seven or eight days without any at one time. But we鈥檝e been chasing it between multiple vendors.”

Perhaps Vogel, at Eastside Sports, summed it up best. “It’s hard to find a pattern,” he said. “Lots of things are in short supply, but it’s hard to predict. Tents have been hard to get your hands on; backpacking stoves and Black Diamond cams have been problematic. Bikes and car racks have been tough. Even bear canisters have been strangely difficult to get. What do all those things have in common?”

Answer: nothing. Inventory is simply tough right now across the board.

Areas of Success

It’s not all doom and gloom, however, these retailers were quick to point out.

“For us, footwear has done well鈥攖hough it’s hit or miss by brand,” Vogel said. “Other than Merrell, which basically ran out of shoes, we鈥檝e done pretty well. La Sportiva and Topo Athletic are two that have been outstanding in terms of getting us product.”

Merkel says that while inventory hasn’t been easy in any category this year, there have been areas with fewer challenges. Round House has most of the downhill skis it ordered for the season, as well as a healthy selection of Nordic hardgoods. Some of that, she noted, is carryover product from last year, but that hasn’t posed a problem; there’s more of an appetite for older gear this season.

“There鈥檚 something to be says for reminding consumers that we do have carryover product from last year,” Merkel said. “Brands are cutting back expansion of their lines, so there鈥檚 probably going to be a lot more carryover for the next few years as well. It’s good to get customers used to that now.”

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The Round House in Bozeman, Montana, has most of the downhill skis it pre-ordered for the season, but special orders have become virtually impossible with shipping delays. (Photo: Courtesy)

At The Trail Head in Missoula, Franks says he was pleasantly surprised by the performance of the vendors he uses for his watersports categories.

“All of our boat vendors did a really excellent job,” he said. “We struggled with kayaks and paddles and accessories a little, but not as much as you might have imagined.”

The Trail Head River Sports sales floor
In Montana, The Trail Head has kept most of its watersports products in stock throughout the year. “All of our boat vendors did a really excellent job,” said owner Todd Frank. (Photo: Brooke Redpath)

Softgoods vs. Hardgoods

Slicing things a different way, there’s no clear trend in supply differences聽between softgoods and hardgoods, according to the retailers we spoke with. Here, though, there’s at least some pattern in demand difference.

“Apparel is down by double digits this year,” Frank said of overall sales at The Trail Head. “The more casual it is, the more people don’t want it.”

Franks says that technical clothing has done well and hardgoods are flying off the shelves. He attributes the demand change to one simple factor: caution. Customers don鈥檛 want to try things on unless it’s something they absolutely need, like a raincoat, or something they feel safe trying on, like a ski boot.

“On the hardgoods side, we鈥檙e up 100 percentage points on uphill gear,” said Barg of his sales in Aspen. “Brands like Dynafit, Blizzard, and Technica are flying out the door. And surprisingly the inventory from those guys has been pretty good thus far.”

Again, though, there’s no clear pattern from a supply perspective, taking into account an experience like Merkel’s. She noted that, even though Round House has most of its pre-season ski orders filled by now, special orders are another story entirely.

“Our story with hardgoods is shipping delays,” sayidMerkel. “Companies are short-staffed, they don鈥檛 have the manpower to get special orders out, and that causes a trickle-down effect. We’ve been turning people away on the hardgoods side for special requests, just telling customers we’re sorry, but we can’t get them what they need.”

Add to that a massive fire this fall that burned down the main ski factory for Fischer, one of Merkel’s big vendors at Round House. Hardgoods have been wildly unpredictable, even with some modest success at getting orders filled, she says.

Solution: Sourcing from Multiple Vendors and Leaning on Relationships

One workaround many retailers have pursued is quick pivots to different vendors.

“We鈥檝e been able to keep things going because we have three or four vendors for each of the items in camping, which is a big category for us,” Chatinsky said of Ute Mountaineer. “For instance, in the past we’ve ordered solar showers from Tech Sport, Coghlan鈥檚, and Reliance. Those channels are all open, so if one of them closes, we lean more heavily on the other two.”

Chatinsky says that, in his view, that communication and multiple channels to source product are key to managing inventory chaos as the pandemic progresses.

“Of course, that’s just another way of saying it’s all about relationships,” he said. “When it comes down to crunch time, relationships will sink you or keep you afloat. When you call a vendor and get a friend on the other end of the line, that’s when things get done for you. Pay attention to who you do business with and why. It鈥檚 not all about price.”

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Peace Surplus in Flagstaff, Arizona, sources many items in its key categories from multiple vendors, which has helped with supply slowdowns among individual brands. (Photo: Courtesy)

Vogel echoed the sentiment, and says that another important factor is nimbleness.

“You have to be quick on your feet,” he said. “You have to anticipate shortages and either stock up ahead of time鈥攍ike we did with fuel canisters this summer鈥攐r pivot quickly and look for smaller quantities of similar items from different vendors.”

Of course, pivoting to new vendors and maintaining relationships are two strategies that don’t always play well together. Frank, at The Trail Head, says he chose not to introduce uncertainty for his vendors out of respect for their business. They rely on him just as much as he relies on them, after all.

“We talked about pivoting to new suppliers, but we wanted to stick with the people we鈥檝e always been working with,” Frank said. “We鈥檝e had some new vendors reaching out. I got an email yesterday from a big brand鈥擨 won’t say who鈥攖hat started as a direct-to-consumer operation and now wants to get into wholesale. We鈥檒l probably take a hard pass on that. We want to support people who have supported us in the past. That’s just how it works.”

For Merkel, the courtesy of sticking with your old partners has another benefit鈥攊t gives you room to ask for flexibility when needed. That give-and-take might include discounts, shipping assistance, or changes to invoice dating.

“The willingness to flex is different for each company,” Merkel said. “When we go and ask our vendors to ship additional product or cover freight, we know they鈥檙e in a hard spot too. But that doesn’t mean we haven’t done it. One area we鈥檝e succeeded in is asking our vendors to pay for expedited freight. We tell them we need such-and-such product, we can鈥檛 wait weeks, so we need you to ship it overnight and cover that cost. And most of the time they’re willing. Yes it’s a big ask, but ultimately it’s to support sell-through, which benefits them too.”

Frank says that his big ask always comes down to invoice dating. He doesn’t push his vendors too hard to ship product faster, but he does insist on keeping the timeline for payment at its agreed-upon length if an order arrives late.

“My standard approach is, if you ship something 30 days late, I鈥檓 adding 30 days to the dating for payment. I鈥檓 going to call up and ask for more time, because we had less time to sell it,” he said. “To me, that just makes sense.”

How Are Customers Handling It?

In the end, all these retailers seemed to agree that customer flexibility is a big factor鈥攑erhaps the biggest鈥攊n dealing with inventory challenges during the pandemic. If customers are willing to wait a little longer for their gear, reserve pickiness about color and other details, and occasionally shop around for carryover product from last season, much of the inventory chaos can be buffered enough to keep retailers and brands going until things even out again.

“Thankfully, there鈥檚 a push this year to shop local,” Merkel said. “People know that shipping is backed up, and they’re sympathetic. Many consumers still want to buy things locally. Even if we can’t guarantee special orders or promise to have every single new product in stock, the forgiveness of our customers can get us through. And we won’t forget that when things get back to normal.”

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5 Innovative Packaging Solutions That Can Help Your Company Kick Plastic /business-journal/issues/5-packaging-solutions-to-eliminate-plastic/ Thu, 22 Oct 2020 07:17:24 +0000 /?p=2568897 5 Innovative Packaging Solutions That Can Help Your Company Kick Plastic

If you鈥檙e serious about eliminating single-use packaging from your company and the outdoor industry, these five companies can help

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5 Innovative Packaging Solutions That Can Help Your Company Kick Plastic

The outdoor industry, more than most, is keenly aware of the effects of climate change and, in particular, the need to create greener supply chains. It鈥檚 the reason more than 377 outdoor brands have joined the Plastic Impact Alliance, committing to making our industry more sustainable by eradicating single-use plastic from their businesses.

Although everything from materials to manufacturing contributes to a company鈥檚 carbon footprint, it鈥檚 end-of-the-line packaging that really adds up and is often unable to be recycled curbside. Still, it鈥檚 arguably one of the easiest things to change and make more sustainable (not to mention, it serves as a significant touchpoint with customers, especially as ecommerce continues to trend upwards).

Only about 9 percent of all plastic waste is currently recycled and as such, single-use plastic packaging accounts for nearly half the plastic waste found in nature. In August, prAna, an early member of the Plastic Impact Alliance and a leader in sustainable, outdoor fashion, announced the Responsible Packaging Movement, a program designed to create industry-wide change. Since 2010, prAna has successfully eliminated more than 17 million polybags from the supply chain and its new initiative takes it a step further by collaborating with other industry brands.

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This year, prAna announced its new Responsible Packaging Movement, a program designed to create industry-wide change. (Photo: Courtesy)

In line with the Plastic Impact Alliance and prAna鈥檚 mission of sharing knowledge and transforming the industry together, we鈥檝e compiled this list as a resource for outdoor brands.聽From mailers to labels, protective wrapping to polybags, here are five companies out to revolutionize how we package and ship products. The first three innovations on this list were recent winners of the Sustainable Packaging Coalition聽2020 Protective Packaging Design Challenge.

Returnity

The Product

Chrysalis is a reusable shipping bag designed to replace poly-mailers and reusable shipping boxes.

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Returnity creates mailbags that can be聽transformed into totes, duffles, or makeup bags. (Photo: Courtesy)

How It Works

Brands work with Returnity to design mailbags that, once used for shipping, can be flipped inside out by the customer and transformed into a tote, duffle, or makeup bag. The boxes are made for companies engaged in a circular shipping model.

鈥淥ur view is that companies will not scale the use of reusables if it doesn’t make sense financially, so we enable them to make the switch by making it cost-effective,鈥 said Returnity CEO Michael Newman.

Returnity believes its packaging creates perfect social media moments once in the customer鈥檚 hands.

鈥淚n addition to cardboard boxes and poly-mailer bags being wasteful, they鈥檙e just boring,鈥 said Newman. 鈥淔or so many retailers, this is the one physical touch point they have with the consumer. When you ship something in a reusable package, consumers take notice and love it.鈥

Environmental Credentials

All bags and boxes are made from recycled plastic bottles. Returnity is also working with a household name in outdoor fabric to turn used or deadstock fabrics鈥攖hings that may have failed color matching or quality control and might otherwise be landfilled鈥攊nto reusable shipping bags. Additionally, all of Returnity鈥檚 boxes have a layer of rigid plastic in between them, meaning they outperform cardboard in terms of strength, durability, and product protection. Returnity guarantees its packaging for 40 shipments and will even take products back from clients at the end of their life span in order to handle the recycling of the material.

Applications for the Outdoor Industry

Returnity鈥檚 willingness to work with brands on a case-by-case basis means its industry applications are endless. Although the company鈥檚 model is similar to LimeLoop, which is used by Toad & Co, it differs in the respect that its reusable packaging isn鈥檛 leased.

鈥淚’m super proud of our ability to adapt our reusables in a way that makes sense for almost any product,鈥 said Newman. 鈥淭he thing that we鈥檙e working on now is really enabling systems, so that if your company isn鈥檛 inherently circular we鈥檙e able to help you get there.鈥

Returnity counts O鈥橮ros Fly Fishing and Camp Rents among its current clients. In the coming weeks they will add a yet-to-be-name gear rental company plus another big name in outdoor apparel.

Mushroom Packaging

The Product

High-performing packaging made from hemp and mycelium that resembles pulp packaging or an egg carton, and easily could replace similar plastic versions as well. Additionally, it鈥檚 cost competitive, thermally insulating, and water resistant.

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Mushroom Packaging creates packing solutions from聽sustainable聽organic matter. (Photo: Courtesy)

How It Works

Every piece of Mushroom Packaging (powered by Evocative Design) is custom designed, using CAD software, and grown in just seven days. The product is a living material and spends four days in its tray before being removed to grow for two more days, and finally, dried for one to disable future growth.

Environmental Credentials

Mushroom Packaging takes just 30 days to break down in a home compost, no industrial composting required. (It takes 180 days in a marine compost.) Consumers simply have to break the packaging into small pieces and place it outside in the soil, allowing nutrients to return to the earth. Additionally, the trays used to grow the packaging are reused hundreds of times.

Applications for the Outdoor Industry

Mushroom Packaging has distribution centers in the U.S., Europe, Oceania, and the U.K. Paradise Packaging, located in California, is the main hub for growth and distribution across the U.S. and does have some standard shapes available. Incredibly versatile and with custom options available, this packaging could be used on everything from ski goggles to fly rods, from solar lights to camping stoves, or anything that benefits from a more rigid form of packaging.

Flexi-Hex

The Product

A range of plastic-free packaging solutions made from recycled cardboard that use a honeycomb design and are ideal for replacing bubble wrap.

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Flexi-Hex utilizes a unique structure that allows it to wrap a wide variety of objects safely. (Photo: Courtesy)

How It Works

The hexagonal cellular structure of Flexi-Hex means it can wrap a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and materials, including glass. Flexi-Hex Air is a lighter, tissue paper-based packaging ideal for smaller, fragile objects.

Environmental Credentials

Flexi-Hex鈥檚 mission is simple: remove plastic from the packaging industry and raise awareness of the threats currently facing the world鈥檚 oceans. Flexi-Hex is nontoxic, reusable, biodegrades readily, and is made of 100 percent recycled cardboard. The company is also currently investigating bio-adhesives in order to remove its reliance on petroleum-based glue.

Although much more low-volume than its plastic counterparts, Flexi-Hex is still manufactured in China and shipped around the world (distribution accounts for the majority of its carbon footprint, although the company does purchase carbon offsets to compensate). Internally, every Flexi-Hex employee also gets a personalized carbon footprint report complete with recommendations on how they can improve things like their travel habits, diet, and home energy use. As of 2020, the company is carbon-negative according to conservation organization Mossy Earth.

Applications for the Outdoor Industry

Flexi-Hex can be used to protect surf boards, skis, snowboards, bikes, small electronics, water bottles, tent poles, sunglasses, helmets, oats, lanterns, coolers鈥攜ou get the idea.

Vela

The Product

A durable, paper polybag alternative, Vela bags are weather resistant and protect their contents from humidity, moisture, and dust.

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The Vela bag was originally designed for apparel companies, but its potential uses extend much further. (Photo: Courtesy)

How It Works

A product of family-owned Seaman Paper, a company that now focuses on lightweight paper solutions used in packaging, the Vela bag officially launched at the beginning of this month. Although the bag was designed with apparel companies in mind, it has potential beyond that.

鈥淲e’re in testing with lots of global apparel brands whose names you would know,鈥 said Seaman Paper鈥檚 VP of business development, Julie Skibniewski. 鈥淲hat’s been surprising to us is the non-apparel inquiries we’ve had from consumer products companies.鈥

Environmental Credentials

Vela bags are made from paper, one of the most highly recyclable products in the world. What鈥檚 more, the Vela bag is made from Forest Stewardship Council-certified, sustainably harvested paper fibers; globally, FSC is considered the strongest system of forest management. Since Vela bags can be recycled four to six times, they also promote a circular economy where maximum value is extracted from raw material. Finally, Seaman has partnered with sustainable solutions firm South Pole to calculate the carbon footprint of producing Vela bags and to purchase corresponding carbon offsets.

Applications for the Outdoor Industry

In addition to prAna, the women鈥檚 fashion brand Mara Hoffman and sustainable clothing brand Outerknown are already using Vela bags. 鈥淭here鈥檚 really a limitless opportunity for Vela bags,鈥 said Skibniewski. 鈥淎nywhere you鈥檙e currently using plastic, you can use a Vela bag.鈥

EcoEnclose

The Product

EcoEnclose, based in Louisville, Colorado, isn鈥檛 a new company but its product line is extensive鈥攆rom mailers to boxes, packing tape to hemp twine鈥攁nd constantly evolving. We particularly like their focus on shipping supplies, specifically zero-waste shipping labels, which the company claims are the world鈥檚 most eco-friendly.

How It Works

Companies can request free, individual samples of specific products or full sample kits. EcoEnclose has the capacity to serve companies of all sizes, whether you need 1,000 units or 5 million. Additionally, the majority of its products can be custom branded.

Environmental Credentials

EcoEnclose offers two types of zero-waste shipping labels, the first being 100 percent recycled white labels, compatible with laser and inkjet printers, which come on EcoEnclose鈥檚 100 percent recycled and curbside recyclable liners. The second option is direct thermal labels that are compatible with standard thermal printers, also on the Zero Waste Release Liner. There are also several tape options that are better than the typical plastic stuff, including Cello Carton Sealing Tape, which combines cellulose backing with a natural rubber adhesive, making it plant-based, renewable, and biodegradable.

By 2030, EcoEnclose hopes to be an 鈥渆cologically net positive鈥 company, meaning that its products, operations, and supply chain are a positive, regenerative force for the planet. The company has a comprehensive sustainable packaging framework and is committed to innovation.

Applications for the Outdoor Industry

EcoEnclose鈥檚 outdoor industry clients already include La Sportiva, United By Blue, Adidas, and Fj盲llr盲ven.

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Opinion: Why Direct-To-Consumer Sales Are Killing Specialty Retail /business-journal/opinion-business-journal/im-fired-up-why-direct-to-consumer-sales-are-killing-specialty-retail/ Sat, 23 Jan 2016 06:55:43 +0000 /?p=2572521 Opinion: Why Direct-To-Consumer Sales Are Killing Specialty Retail

As gear companies increase their direct-to-consumer sales, 鈥減ro deals鈥 and 鈥渇riends and family" promotions, retailers protest that they can鈥檛 compete. They鈥檙e being undercut and left holding the bag on inventory they can鈥檛 possibly sell at the same discounts. Todd Frank, owner of The Trail Head, an independent Missoula, Montana-based specialty outdoor retailer, says enough is enough. If vendors continue to offer these discounts and lure his customers away, he鈥檒l stop doing business with them鈥攁nd he calls on other retailers to join him

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Opinion: Why Direct-To-Consumer Sales Are Killing Specialty Retail

We, the independent specialty retail shops, did all the legwork to create these customers. Without us, these companies wouldn’t be here. I鈥檓 not sure there are many vendors that could survive without us, so I鈥檓 trying to help vendors balance capitalizing on the opportunities that direct-to-consumer sales have without undermining our ability to build that relationship with the consumer and profit on our inventory.

What outdoor specialty does the best is introduce people to products. You have consumers who don鈥檛 know anything about a new category, if they鈥檝e invented a new kind of shoe or a new old fabric in the case of wool from Icebreaker. It took a tremendous amount of work on the part of a big retail network in America to put Icebreaker products into people鈥檚 hands and help people see the value in it. Growing a brand from its infancy to the point where it has relatively broad market awareness is something that retail stores are still going to do better than selling direct to consumers online.

We sell consumers on the brand, but we have a very limited assortment of it because it鈥檚 hard for small retailers to pioneer a brand and you can鈥檛 buy all of the available products and colors. So you introduce people to this new brand and eventually they go, 鈥淚 wonder what else there is?鈥 And that consumer ends up going to their website to look at the product breadth that we don鈥檛 have.

Immediately after consumers engage with their website, vendors hammer that consumer with email blasts and specials like free shipping and throwing in a pair of gloves or a free hat. They really work to steal that customer away from us.

Ibex is another serious offender. We essentially create the brand disciple and they steal them. I don鈥檛 think a company like Ibex could survive without direct-to-consumer business, but I also don鈥檛 think they ever would have been able to get off the ground by only doing direct-to-consumer business. We鈥檙e not going to win every battle, but if Ibex continues to do business that way, it鈥檚 going to be harder and harder for retailers to support them.

I recently threatened to drop Scarpa, one of the most important brands in backcountry skiing. By far, Scarpa has been the best telemark and alpine touring boot manufacturer to work with in my career, so why would I sever the relationship? Vendor partners are now our fiercest competitors. This year, it started with a free hoody if you bought boots from them, some free freight promos and then the now-common 鈥渇riends and family pro sale.鈥 In the days leading to Christmas, a group of vendors opened up the pro sales departments and wholesale pricing to all friends and family of legit pros. Scarpa, along with 33 other vendors, including Osprey, Cascade Designs, Rab, La Sportiva, Petzl, MSR, BCA, Mountain Hardwear, and Sierra Designs participated in this sales extravaganza run by Outdoor Prolink.

Outdoor Prolink's homepage. Screenshot taken Jan. 21, 2016.Outdoor Prolink’s homepage. (Screenshot: Todd Frank)

When I asked Scarpa to give me a reason why they did it, the simple answer was 鈥渕oney.鈥
They primarily sell a product that needs to be custom fit by a professional with the tools to do it. We have done thousands of boot fittings here over the last 18 years, and we are pretty good at it. Why would I want to do business with a brand that actively sells a product that needs my expertise to fit properly when that business aggressively under cuts what I can sell it for? Five years ago, I would have howled and said because they have the best boots. Now, there are seven or eight other vendors that have absolutely amazing product, too. (Editor鈥檚 note: To Scarpa’s credit, since receiving similar feedback from several retailers they have committed to no longer doing friends and family promotions.)

If we all have to pay the price of a problem equally, it will stop vendors from pushing direct-to-consumer sales and taking business away from us. They鈥檙e always going to have a better assortment than we do, and they can鈥檛 really fix that piece of it. But what they can do is work with us to make sure we can sell the product we stock profitably throughout the whole season. So I鈥檓 asking the vendors to come to us with creative ideas.

I just had an experience with a major vendor in the apparel industry who went off price on their web direct-to-consumer business in clear violation of their own policy that said 鈥淲e鈥檒l hold price until this point in time.鈥 For reasons that are all legitimate, they couldn鈥檛 wait. I went to the vendor and I said, 鈥淚 think you owe me some markdown credits. You didn鈥檛 go by the policy you鈥檙e asking me to go by.鈥 They were pretty happy to do it. That needs to happen on more levels.

Until a vendor is affected by the final transaction with the end consumer buying their product, they鈥檙e not going to change the way they do it. So I鈥檓 looking for more partnerships with vendors who are willing to do things like manage excess inventory, share costs, take product back, trade product out, use markdown credits, or simply guarantee a sustained margin. The only way we鈥檙e going to change vendors鈥 behavior is with our checkbooks, so I can鈥檛 keep saying to people, 鈥淵ou have to change the way you鈥檙e doing business,鈥 and continue to buy 10 percent more than I did last year. At some point I just have to get up from the table and say, 鈥淲e鈥檙e done.鈥 They鈥檝e got to feel the pain a little bit, and until they feel the pain, there鈥檚 no motivation for any change in behavior.

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