Friday Fantasy - 国产吃瓜黑料 /tag/friday-fantasy/ Live Bravely Sun, 13 Apr 2025 20:17:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Friday Fantasy - 国产吃瓜黑料 /tag/friday-fantasy/ 32 32 Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful /adventure-travel/destinations/europe/deplar-farm-iceland/ Fri, 11 Apr 2025 09:00:42 +0000 /?p=2700092 Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful

Iceland's Deplar Farm is an extreme adventure outpost and luxury boutique resort ready to swaddle you in comfort.

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Yes, This Magical Icelandic 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodge Is Real鈥攁nd Wonderful

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Standing on the black-sand shore at the edge of Iceland鈥檚 Troll Peninsula, Jay Sweet tapped the top of his head twice and laughed when I stood up and returned the gesture, signaling I was fine after being walloped by a little wave I鈥檇 attempted to surf in the Arctic Ocean. Actually, I was much more than fine鈥攆or the second day in a row, in February, I was surfing (or, you know, trying) a dozen miles beneath the Arctic Circle. I was ecstatic.

Surfing iceland arctic circle
At Deplar Farm, in Iceland, you can go surfing a few dozen miles from the Arctic Circle. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Back in the States, Sweet is the executive director of the , the vaunted American institution where, yes, Dylan went electric six decades ago but has also long worked to expand the definition of what American folk can entail. But on the north shore of Iceland a few weeks per year, Sweet is also a de facto surfing instructor for , a 15th-century sheep farm that鈥檚 been converted into a boutique luxury resort and extreme adventure outpost 15 miles inland from where we sought our break.

Peeling waves.
Yes, the suring is legit. Cold, but legit. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Shuffling out of the water, with my entire body blanketed in borrowed neoprene, I could see , the Arctic recording outpost owned by Deplar鈥檚 parent company and the space I鈥檇 come to tour. (Sweet is a consultant there.) It is an isolated artist retreat where musicians look to go inward. My wife, Tina, and I clambered into a Toyota truck with Sweet, heat cranked and our boards hanging out of the back. We headed to the studio to prepare for the next journey. We had, after all, come to Iceland to go outward.

Studio location & equipment images shot for FLOKI Studio in Northern Iceland owned by Eleven (Deplar) Experience. This shoot was facilitated through Burkard Studio & contracted out to Joel & Vidir
Want to record your EP in between surf sessions? This is the place. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Indeed, during the 48 hours since our party of six had arrived, our lives had become a toggle between indoor comfort and outdoor escapades. As soon as we鈥檇 stopped surfing the day before, we鈥檇 retreated to a massive hearth in the recording studio鈥檚 lounge with warm bowls of soup. We鈥檇 then toured the valley on small but sturdy Icelandic horses renowned for their idiosyncratic and smooth gait know as the .

When that was over, we returned to the Farm itself, an unassuming black house with a living roof planted with tundra grass that unfolds in several levels and wings of luxury that are almost impossible to see from the road. I showered in my room, which instantly felt like home and headed for an enormous geothermal pool, slipping like a harbor seal beneath a glass wall to the heated outdoor half. I cycled between the pool, a sauna, and a hot tub for hours鈥攐r until it was time for dinner鈥攁 three-course meal of elegant updates to classic Icelandic fare like cod, lamb, and Icelandic Happy Marriage cake, all at a communal dining table that seated two-dozen. During those two hours, strangers from several countries became friends, the mood collectively enhanced by the realization that we were in a corner of wintry heaven, here at the end of the earth. As everyone drifted to the bar or their bedrooms, I stepped on our little porch and looked up, waiting for the Northern Lights to dance.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel听

When that second day of surfing was done, we had an appointment to keep鈥攁 group sauna session in a round house built into the side of the hill, the roof covered with towering grasses. Inside, a tattooed sauna keeper with muscles that looked like bundles of paracord talked us through the history of the Icelandic sauna, then snapped a towel in front of each of our faces to direct the heat toward us like a fireplace bellows. One by one, she marched us outside to a cold plunge pool dug into the hillside, with a spotlight aiming up from the bottom. She timed us before returning us to the sauna, repeating the process until we all relented.

Pool in Iceland
At Deplar Farm, life becomes a toggle between indoor comfort and outdoor escapades. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

That was supposed to be the end of our adventures, after the horses and the surfs and the hikes, and after we鈥檇 turned down chances to take fat bikes onto frozen lakes and go ice fishing. But ever since we鈥檇 arrived, Tina and I had eyed the tall ridges that surrounded Deplar Farm and talked (furtively, at first) of climbing one. When we finally broached the subject with S贸lr煤n鈥攖he knowledgeable and funny guide for our group, who insists you call her Maria if her real name is too difficult鈥攕he enthusiastically agreed we should give it a go. And since we鈥檇 be leaving in less than 16 hours, we knew this was our last chance. So we met her in Deplar鈥檚 gear barn, a cathedral of skis and poles and paddles and clothes and crampons. She would be watching us by GPS, she said, but we were free to go on our own with the help of the ice axes and spikes she鈥檇 supplied.

waterfall Iceland
Between skiing, fishing, horseback riding, biking, music-making, hiking, climbing, helicoptering, and exploring, you will hopefully never get bored at Deplar Farm. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

We ascended the steep face 2,000 feet until we realized we鈥檇 soon lose the battle with daylight, especially since the farm below had already disappeared behind a whiteout. We picked our way back down the slick faces, glissading the last few hundred feet on the banks of a frozen river. We returned to Deplar, covered in a little mud and bleeding from at least one knee and feeling totally victorious. It was my favorite moment at the Farm, the sensation that comes with the satisfaction of doing something about which the other guests weren鈥檛 so sure.

That flexibility and scope are key at Deplar. They will take you heli-skiing (for the price of the fuel) in aggressive terrain, or they will lead you on cross-country meanders. They will cut you loose to test your own skills on unknown slopes and trust that you will be back by dinner, or they will join you on a slow horseback trot along unpaved roads. Each morning, your guide presents some options and then lets you plot the course of your adventure, however heavy or light you hope to make it.

Eat and Drink

Deplar Farm’s culinary approach takes the standard fare of Iceland, sourcing as locally as possible, and then applying techniques imported from classic French cuisine. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

鈥淒id you see those lights up the road, on the top of the hill?鈥 the chef asked the table during our first night at Deplar Farm. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 where the lamb comes from.鈥 He was talking about the lamb shank that stood on each plate like an obelisk, surrounded by a sea of blood-red beet puree, perfectly tender potatoes, and succulent mushrooms. It was the night鈥檚 main course and emblematic of the place鈥檚 culinary approach鈥攖ake the standard fare of Iceland, source it as locally as possible, and then apply techniques imported from classic French cuisine. Dinner, then, was always full of surprises, where ingredients you came to anticipate, like cod, were recast in unexpected roles, as when the fish was diced so that it looked more like rice. Eating was a protracted and social process, too, each of the three courses patiently revealed and explained by the chef and sommelier.

Pancake with blueberries
Don’t worry, if you drink a few too many Kaldi’s, a plate of Icelandic pancakes will await you in the morning. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

But the true standouts were simpler. There was the ever-present table butter, so soft it seemed to spread itself over sourdough. There was the breakfast, dominated by crepe-like Icelandic pancakes and massive bowls of Skyr, Iceland鈥檚 wonderfully acidic and protein-loaded yogurt, piled generously with granola and fruit. And there were the blessed snacks, from the in-room refrigerator replenished each morning to standing spreads of nuts, trail mixes, and dried fruits, ready to be bagged before you headed out the door.

Deplar bar
The drinks at Deplar鈥攚hether NA or otherwise鈥攁re as generous as everything else. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

I should say that I stopped drinking years ago. But the drinks were so generous for everyone鈥攁nd the non-alcoholic options so plentiful for everyone else鈥攖hat I found myself playing bass during an impromptu karaoke jam with three women older than my mother on the final night as my successful, professional friends played beer pong nearby. When I woke up the next morning, the bar resembled the remains of a college party, and Wilco鈥檚 Sky Blue Sky was still playing. There were, suffice it to say, a lot of Icelandic pancakes at breakfast.

Choice Cabins

Bedroom at Deplar Farm
Each of the 13 rooms at Deplar has a deeply cozy design. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

In my first few days on the Appalachian Trail, I became Gunner, an ignominious trail name bestowed upon me by someone who has somehow become a best friend because I looked like Elmer Fudd. It felt a little like fate, then, when we arrived at our room to see 鈥淕unnar鈥 painted across the white door in a tight, black hand. It was presumably a reference to Gunnar H谩mundarson, a warring Icelandic leader a millennium ago. Each of the 13 rooms at Deplar has its own historic name, and they all share a deeply cozy design, from king beds piled high with sheepskin blankets to a slate shower with water hot enough to toast you after escaping the Icelandic winter. Each room is meant to be personalized, too, from separate sound systems in the bathroom and bedroom you can adjust yourself to a refrigerator that is constantly restocked with house-made hummus, jerky, and drinks.

Northern lights Deplar
At Deplar, you won’t want to miss watching the Northern Lights dance. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

But you鈥檒l want to leave your room for the common spaces, too鈥攁 library with mountain views, a media room with deep couches, multiple gyms, and, my favorite, a hearthside hangout zone equipped with towering hi-fi speakers, a fancy turntable, and an assortment of very good records. (, the company that owns Deplar and a string of properties on several continents, is named for .) Each morning in Iceland, I woke up very early to write a profile about the singer . The record perched by the turntable when I arrived? Panda Bear鈥檚 masterpiece, Person Pitch. It was a coincidence (I think) by studio engineer Wade Koeman, but it wasn鈥檛 the only bit of magic I encountered at Deplar, where the tall troll hill feet from the front door is treated as sacred space.

When to Go

Northern lights at Deplar Farm
It says a lot when the Northern Lights are only part of the appeal. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

As we left Reykjavik, our small Icelandair plane shuddered when it broke through the clouds, pushing through the gray of the day in the capital city. But an hour later, we landed in Akureyri鈥攁 town of 20,000 at the edge of one of Iceland鈥檚 longest fjords鈥攁mid a blue-bird day, the sky so bright and the ground so free of snow you might not have guessed it was winter in Iceland. The two-hour drive to Deplar Farm was all horizon, cliffs tumbling into oceans into infinity. By the next morning, though, our valley was a mix of ocean air and white, a strange snow globe with no visibility. The conditions shifted constantly between these two states.

Ski mountains Deplar Farm
Come for the surf. Stay for the skiing. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

All this to say: Go anytime. Every person I spoke to at Deplar Farm recommended a summer return, when the hiking, biking, and fishing were as endless as the green of the valley. They also suggested being there with more snow, so that the barn of DPS skis and the stable of snowmobiles could take us far and fast.

How To Get There

Deplar was formerly a 15th century sheep farm. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Two airports serve Reykjavik. In all likelihood, you鈥檒l fly into Keflav铆k International, a hub for Icelandair, which has 20 direct stateside destinations. A Deplar emissary will scoop you there, shuttling you either to a quaint guesthouse they keep near the city鈥檚 harbor for the night or straight to the second airport, Reykjavik Domestic. You鈥檒l fly to Akureyri, at the country鈥檚 northern edge, and again be picked up by a Deplar representative, your adventure guide for your stay. Sit on the right side of the van for the best scenery, and don鈥檛 fret too much about the one-lane tunnels that cut beneath mountains. Deplar isn鈥檛 the easiest place to reach, but Akureyri is working to expand its international flights. And the remoteness, after all, is part of the reward.

Don鈥檛 Miss

As an American, it is tempting to look at Iceland as a speck of sparsely populated lava rock between two oceans, smaller than the state of Tennessee, and assume you can see it all quickly. If you鈥檙e spending major money to go stay at a luxe spot where your every wish becomes someone else鈥檚 task, isn鈥檛 that enough? How much can there really be to see? Don鈥檛 make that mistake.

View of water and mountains in Iceland
Deplar Farm might feel like it has everything you could ever need鈥攂ut don’t forget to explore Iceland itself. (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

As exceptional as my stay at Deplar Farm was, my time outside of it might have been my favorite part of my first Icelandic visit. After we returned to Reykjavik, Tina and I grabbed some pastries from the incredible bakery and a tiny rented Kia and headed for , where a volcano and glacier lord over a peninsula with a coastline so rugged it makes the crags of Maine look like a small-scale model. We climbed atop and drove into craters, waded into water loaded with seals, and stood on a beach where the tide lurched in and out of smooth lava rocks, creating one of the most psychedelic sound experiences of my life. There were hot springs, commanding columns of basalt, and, at the cheap motel we found halfway back to Reykjavik, the best Northern Lights of our trip. (Many hotels have a sign-up sheet; when the Lights appear, they call you, no matter the hour.) Don鈥檛 let guided adventures, however great, replace a self-guided one, especially in a country with as many uncanny spectacles as Iceland.

Surfing in Iceland
Surf in the Arctic Ocean in February? Sure! (Photo: Chris Burkard Studio)

Details

Price: From $3,970 (winter) or $4,377 (summer), three-night stay required

Address: 570 Fljot, 脫lafsfj枚r冒ur, Iceland

Book Deplar Farm


Why was 国产吃瓜黑料 hiking columnist and Backpacker contributor Grayson Haver Currin touring a music studio in Iceland? Long before he had finished the Triple Crown of Hiking, ever since he was a teenager in North Carolina, he was a music journalist. He continues to write about music for GQ, The New York Times, Pitchfork, and many more.

Grayson Haver Currin

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This Hawaii Lodge Overlooks an Active Volcano /adventure-travel/national-parks/volcano-house-hawaii/ Fri, 21 Mar 2025 09:32:27 +0000 /?p=2698697 This Hawaii Lodge Overlooks an Active Volcano

Located in Volcanoes National Park, Volcano House overlooks the K墨lauea Crater. Here's what to know.

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This Hawaii Lodge Overlooks an Active Volcano

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

When K墨lauea volcano in Hawai鈥檌 Volcanoes National Park began to erupt last December, spewing lava 300 feet into the air, I knew I had to see it in person. And there was only one place I wanted to stay.

As the lodge closest to the mammoth K墨laueaCrater, is a highly sought-after spot among lava lovers. On any particular day鈥攁nd especially during eruptions鈥攖he back of the property is jam-packed with people watching for a telling orange glow or bubbling magma. During an active period, it鈥檚 not unusual for 1,000 people to pass through Volcano House鈥檚 doors daily. And given that the area is one of the most volcanically active spots in the world, this happens more often than you might think.

Why I Love the Volcano House

volcano house
Witnessing K墨lauea erupting from the comfort of Volcano House is a singular experience. (Photo: Janice Wei)

There was a crackling energy when I walked through the doors; I鈥檓 still not sure if it was from the excitement surrounding the recent eruption or some sort of shared energy between us and the volcano. (K墨lauea had another minor eruption听the day before my arrival in the park.) I was hopeful I鈥檇 be there for a follow-up.

Volcano House staff have plenty of stories from previous eruptions. Food and Beverage Manager Tina Balubar remembers when part of K墨lauea crater was filled by a lava lake. (This lasted from 2008-2018 when the lava burst through steam vents further along the island, destroying the Leilani Estates community and causing Volcano House to briefly close.) She showed me a photo of nearby Mauna Loa erupting, K墨lauea glowing a deep orange.

鈥淚 grew up near a volcano, so I don鈥檛 get scared,鈥 Balubar says. 鈥淲hen an eruption happens, I make all the employees stop, look up, and take it all in. That鈥檚 why [many of us] are here.鈥

Volcano House鈥檚 history stretches back further than the establishment of the Hawai鈥檌 Volcanoes National Park in 1916鈥攁ll the way back to 1846. Increased tourism caused the original thatched inn to give way to larger wooden lodges. (The original building was later moved and now serves as the park鈥檚 art gallery, where you can find听oil paintings, sculptures, and photographic prints of previous eruptions in the park.) Over the years, dignitaries like Mark Twain, Jack London, Princess Victoria Kaulani, Amelia Earhart, and President Franklin Roosevelt have stayed at one Volcano House iteration or another.

volcano house
Volcano House Facade circa 1918-1921. (Photo: National Park Service)

In 1921, a new two-story wing was built, upping the capacity to 115 people. Unfortunately, that version of Volcano House was destroyed by a fire (started in the kitchen, not by the volcano) in 1940; the current iteration was erected in 1941 and expanded yet again in 1961. The lodge鈥檚 current capacity is 33 rooms.

Given its position on the National Register of Historic Places, updating the lodge presents a host of challenges. Painting the building exterior took more than five years, Balubar says, because a laboratory had to analyze layers of existing paint to determine the original shade used in 1941.

I took a peek inside the old steam room, where volcanic steam was piped in for the enjoyment of male guests in the 1940s. (Back then, women weren鈥檛 allowed to sweat, apparently.) When upkeep and repair costs became too high, they filled in those steam vents with concrete, rendering it obsolete.

Room furnishings are a bit dated, but comfortable. The ratan lobby furniture fits perfectly with that aesthetic.听But let鈥檚 be honest: When you鈥檙e visiting Volcano House, you鈥檙e really here for the volcano.

Floor-to-ceiling windows face K墨lauea, allowing guests to watch for eruptions in climate-controlled comfort. Across the lobby, a stone fireplace featured a sculpted image of the Hawaiian volcano goddess Pele inset in the rock. Oil paintings of previous eruptions ringed the room, while a flat-screen television played a never-ending loop of past eruption videos.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

volcano house
Volunteers cutting and clearing invasive Himalayan ginger in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. (Photo: Robert Annis)

Considering the current administration鈥檚 war on our national parks, I felt the need to do something positive to give back to the protected land听during my visit. Each Saturday, , an NPS-approved group of volunteers, meet up to fight invasive species in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I joined more than a dozen others armed with loppers, all prepared to cut as much Himalayan ginger as we could. For three hours, we slashed and stacked the plant, ultimately clearing about an acre of the fast-growing plant. By the end, I felt like you could see the accomplishment radiating off of听 me鈥攂ut you probably could only smell the sweat.

With the work out of the way, I had time left for more traditionally听 fun activities. I spent the remainder of my first day hiking much of the , which traverses the north end of K墨lauea before connecting with the. The next morning, I was reluctant to move away from the K墨lauea overlook outside Volcano House, not wanting to miss the expected eruption, but there are too many things to do in the park to stay in one place for too long.


Parking at the K墨lauea Iki trailhead, I hiked to the short .2-mile lava tube before descending into the K墨lauea Iki Crater. The trail, my favorite in the park, winds down a series of switchbacks beneath a rainforest canopy to the crater floor.

volcano house
Descending into the K墨lauea Iki Crater is akin to entering another world. (Photo: Robert Annis)

The change of environments, from lush forest to arid lava rock,听 is a bit jarring. Walking onto the crater surface for the first time, I felt more like an astronaut than a hiker. As the cinder crunched under my feet, I wondered what would happen if the next eruption happened here. I found myself moving a little faster afterward.

Choice Rooms

volcano house
The author’s room featured a full view of the volcanic action, ensuring he wouldn’t miss a thing. (Photo: Robert Annis)

While my own room offered comfort and stunning views of the crater, front desk agent Pam Bowers suggests asking for room 11, a.k.a. Uncle George鈥檚 Room. The former abode of the longest-tenured owner of Volcano House (and the namesake of its bar), the deluxe room is among the lodge鈥檚 most spacious, with gorgeous hardwood floors and one of the best views of the crater. It鈥檚 the most requested room by far, so be sure to book well in advance.

Can鈥檛 get a room at Volcano House? Check out the lodge鈥檚 , located about five minutes from the front entrance gate.

Eat and Drink

Volcano House鈥檚 menu is a mix of familiar favorites, like pizza and burgers, and more upscale offerings. The seafood is top notch. I overheard a few other diners raving about the barbecued prawns and New York Strip. But after a busy day on the trails and in the woods, all I wanted was a cheeseburger and a beer. Volcano House鈥檚 signature burger with cheddar cheese and avocado aioli, served on a punuluu sweet-bread bun, hit the spot perfectly.

When to Go

K墨lauea in all its glory. (Photo: Tina Balubar)

You can reserve rooms a year in advance, and Volcano House is typically fully booked about two months ahead. If you wait until a volcano starts burping lava to reserve a room, you鈥檙e probably going to be too late. But that doesn鈥檛 stop the calls when the volcanic activity starts.

鈥淎 while back, we had an eruption that started at 4 A.M.,鈥 Bowers says, 鈥淭he phone didn鈥檛 stop ringing until at least 2 P.M.鈥

It鈥檚 a roll of the dice as to when the next eruption might happen, but for the best chances of getting a room, try booking for the spring or summer.

As my time at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park came to an end, I was reluctant to leave. Not just because K墨lauea hadn鈥檛 yet erupted during my visit, but also the hospitality I was shown at Volcano House made me want to stay. But given the volcanic upheaval here, I鈥檓 sure I鈥檒l be back at some point.

How to Get There

Volcano House is less than an hour鈥檚 drive from Hilo International Airport (ITO) and about 140 minutes from Kona International (KOA). There鈥檚 no airport shuttle, but you can reserve a car from any number of rental companies on site.

Don’t Miss

volcano house
The view of Paliku Cliffs from Haleakal膩 Crater. (Photo: National Park Service)

If you鈥檙e crossing the ocean to visit Hawai鈥檌 Volcanoes, you should also make a point to visit Hawaii鈥檚 other national park, Haleakal膩 on Maui. Both spots used to be known collectively as Hawaii National Park, but were split into two distinct parks in 1960. The flight between Maui and the Big Island is fairly inexpensive and lasts about 30 minutes.


I enjoyed a day hiking throughout Haleakal膩 and a night near the summit, observing the stars with ( , from $250). Ironically, Haleakal膩鈥檚 crater summit isn鈥檛 volcanic, but rather another form of geographical upheaval: two valleys merging at the summit of a volcano.

If you want to stick to one island for your visit, check out on the Kona side of the island, about two hours away. You鈥檒l learn about the lives of ancient native Hawaiians, as well as the geologic history of the island.

Details

volcano house
In the thick of it: A jungled trail near the entry to Volcano House. (Photo: Robert Annis)

Price: Room prices start at $285 for a standard room, $335 for a room with a crater view.

Address: 1 Crater Rim Drive,
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, HI 96718

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This Costa Rican Treehouse Hotel Elevated My Jungle-国产吃瓜黑料 Expectations /adventure-travel/destinations/central-america/treehouse-hotel-costa-rica/ Fri, 14 Feb 2025 10:33:01 +0000 /?p=2694516 This Costa Rican Treehouse Hotel Elevated My Jungle-国产吃瓜黑料 Expectations

I wanted off the tourist track, and these unique bungalows, set amid a canopy home to butterflies, iridescent birds, and monkeys, delivered

The post This Costa Rican Treehouse Hotel Elevated My Jungle-国产吃瓜黑料 Expectations appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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This Costa Rican Treehouse Hotel Elevated My Jungle-国产吃瓜黑料 Expectations

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Why My Family and I Love the Suitree Experience Hotel

A teenage boy stands, and his mom lays back, on an outdoor deck at the Suitree Experience Hotel in Costa Rica, with views of the green jungle.
Jungle hooked, jungle booked: the author and her family were enticed in large part by the property鈥檚 incredible views; here, from its outdoor lookout platform. (Photo: Courtesy Lisa Jhung)

It was my 13-year-old son who first became obsessed with the idea of staying at a treehouse in Costa Rica. So, when I found online, I quickly called him over. We stared, mesmerized, at the website鈥檚 drone footage of the treehouses鈥 disc-like rooftops set in a verdant rainforest on a hillside amid the clouds.

These aren鈥檛 your typical treehouses. Suitree鈥檚 four individual podlike dwellings are propped up on 30-foot-high steel stilts to better survey the scenery, with winding staircases leading to 110-square-foot 鈥渞ooms.鈥 Additionally, two ground-level bungalows can accommodate two, while their elevated counterparts can sleep up to four. On-site common areas include a lookout platform (offering views of the surrounding tree-covered hills), four pools (one with a swim-up bar), and an open-air restaurant.

Looking for more great travel intel? Sign up for 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 .

Suitree opened in 2018 in the northwestern province of Guanacaste, just six miles from the closest Pacific beach. Its Italian owner enlisted an architecture firm in the capital city of San Jos茅 for help in developing his idea: an immersive, canopied modern treehouse. (A note from the firm: Not a single tree was harmed in the making of this hotel.)

Fairly unfamiliar with Costa Rica, I asked a friend who lives in the province about Suitree and Sardinal, the closest town. 鈥淚t鈥檚 where?鈥 He balked. 鈥淭here鈥檚 nothing out there.鈥

I booked it for a night anyway. Although Sardinal is roughly eight miles from Playa Hermosa, winding dirt roads make travel slow鈥攁nd confusing. Apple Maps suggested we drive through a private horse pasture. Fortunately, we found another way without trespassing.

鈥淭hat鈥檚 part of the experience,鈥 says Nidia Bravo, a Costa Rican travel specialist who represents Suitree. While the property provides transfers from Liberia Guanacaste Airport, roughly 45 minutes away, guests with their own vehicle can make an adventure of their time here, just as we opted to.

We spent the morning playing in the ocean and trekking the trails in the shorefront town of Las Catalinas before heading toward Suitree. En route, we pulled off to enjoy a zip-lining adventure and monkey sanctuary. Had we foregone these detours, our drive from the coast would鈥檝e taken about 30 minutes.

Upon our arrival, a golf cart transported us and our luggage up a steep, narrow cobblestone path to the base of our magical treehouse, which struck me as a modern Ewok village. At ground level was a private swing sofa. Our winding staircase led to what seemed like a trap door in the center of the elevated pod. Once through the hatch, we stepped into a gorgeous teak interior. There was a king-size bed, a bunk-bed nook, a writing desk, and a seemingly hidden鈥攂ut spacious鈥攂athroom. Nearly the entire space was encased by floor-to-ceiling windows.

We made the most of our wraparound deck, which afforded 360-degree views of the valley, mountains, and treetops. I did my there. And one of us was usually perched on the deck with the room鈥檚 pair of high-powered binoculars, scanning the surrounding canopy in search of wildlife. I could鈥檝e stared out at the surrounding hills, listening to birdcalls and monkey howls for hours, but we had four bright blue pools to explore before dinner.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

A woman swims in the middle of three connected pools, surrounded by lush foliage.
This trio of pools were designed to evoke a sense of the region’s naturally formed river pools, or pozas.听 (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

While Guanacaste is known for surfing鈥攊ts 400-mile Gold Coast is home to popular beach breaks like Tamarindo and Playa Grande鈥攖he interior is where you鈥檒l find monkeys and sloths and birds (oh my!).

For an additional fee, Suitree staff will book all sorts of guided tours, from a horseback ride through a savannah, to a rainforest hike at the base of the Arenal volcano, to an all-day excursion of the colonial city of Grenada, Nicaragua, about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Suitree. If we鈥檇 had more time, I would鈥檝e loved to try one of the many self-guided adventures available, including mountain biking and e-biking, hiking, and buggy rides into the jungle.

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Instead, we floated in Suitree鈥檚 connected stone pools (at one point next to a resident iguana) and walked among hundreds of white and yellow butterflies. We laid out on the netting at the lookout while listening to the screeches of howler monkeys, and peered through binoculars in search of them and the other area residents: white-faced capuchin and squirrel monkeys, sloths, , , and 948 species of birds, many of them wonderfully colorful.

Various butterflies wing from bush to bush at Suitree Experience. Costa Rica is home to 1,500-plus butterfly species, and the rainier months between May and November are when more tend to be spotted. (Video: Courtesy Lisa Jhung)

My husband rose early and spotted red and blue tanagers in the adjacent tree canopy, along with an iridescent purple and green fellow that he identified as a spectacular motmot. Over coffee, I spent a solid 20 minutes staring through the binoculars at a brown spot on a faraway hillside to see if it moved鈥擨 was desperate to see a sloth. While I鈥檒l never know if I accomplished my mission that morning, I did see a variety of birds and fell in love with the fluttering butterflies who hovered so close that they seemed to be wanting to tell me something.

Each night, bright stars speckled the sky. I regret heading straight to bed instead of out on the deck to stargaze, but fell asleep happily to the jungle鈥檚 nocturnal noises.

Choice Treehouse

A woman stands on the porch of her Suitree room, looking at the jungle surrounds. We also see the floor-to-ceiling windows and some of the room's interior.
The treehouse suites afford singular views that puts you at eye level with the surrounding treetops. (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

While the hotel accommodates various wants and needs, including a wheelchair-friendly bungalow, its four treehouses are the main attractions. Do you choose the one with a private jacuzzi? Or the one that overlooks the stone pools? Or the one with a newly installed private pool?

We picked the one with the pool view. (The treehouse with its own pool was completed after our stay, and, because I鈥檓 obsessed with water, that’s where we would have wound up.)

An aerial view of Suitree Experience鈥檚 treetop suite with private pool
The treetop suite with private pool can accommodate up to four people and offers plenty of solitude (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

Eat and Drink

With no restaurants within easy walking distance, guests will inevitably gather for a meal at Suitree鈥檚 on-site restaurant, Taru. Its menu features fresh, locally sourced ingredients and dishes inspired by regional traditions.

A group of six people sit at a table at Suitree鈥檚 restaurant, Taru, at dusk; you can see an adjacent pool and deck with tables and chairs
Dinner at Taru is a laid-back environment. The adjacent deck often hosts live music in the evenings. (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

We started dinner with fresh guacamole prepared tableside, followed by our entrees: a mahi-mahi with seasonal vegetables for my husband and myself, and osso buco with spaghetti al bronzo (a tomato jus) for the boys.

A plated dish of risotto with vegetables, topped b a grilled fish with greens, from the Suitree Experience Hotel in Costa Rica
Also on the menu: rice with vegetables topped with fish and greens, one of the many healthy, locally sourced dishes. (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

Breakfast is included with your stay, and my sons and I were thrilled when the friendly staff offered to serve us at the swim-up bar. (My husband, less obsessed with water, dined at a regular table.) We swam over to stone stools submerged in cool water and my sons ordered pancakes, while I indulged in incredibly fresh fruit, yogurt, and honey foam.

Two teenage boys sit on underwater stools at Suitree Experience鈥檚 swim-up bar, enjoying breakfast
Swim right up and enjoy the most important meal of the day鈥攂reakfast鈥攑oolside. (Photo: Courtesy Lisa Jhung)

When to Go

An aerial view of Costa Rica鈥檚 calm Playa Hermosa, on the Pacific coast, with people swimming and beach-going.
Playa Hermosa, which means 鈥渂eautiful beach,鈥 is known for its calm, clear waters, and visitors are often seen boating, kayaking, and stand-up paddleboarding. (Photo: Kryssia Campos/Getty)

Suitree closes for renovations each October, toward the end of the rainy, less-touristed months (typically May through November). Rain can make outdoor activities more challenging and travel along this area鈥檚 numerous dirt roads difficult, but it also keeps this country green and doesn鈥檛 often last all day, every day.

The dry season is December through April, when prices are highest and temperatures hottest.

We visited in June and experienced torrential rains for less than 3 days of our 12-day trip, mostly at night. High temperatures were in the eighties, with more than 80 percent humidity.

How to Get There

San Jos茅 International Airport is a four-hour drive from Suitree, but the closer option is the region鈥檚 Liberia airport. The hotel offers luxury transport to and from Liberia for $120 each way for up to four people. Alternatively, you can book a shuttle or a taxi.

Don鈥檛 Miss

Selfie of man extreme-zip-lining in Costa Rica
Extreme zip lining dives you into the Costa Rican canopy headfirst. (Photo: F.J. Jimenez/Getty)

There鈥檚 zip lining in Costa Rica, and then there鈥檚 extreme zip lining in Costa Rica. Sign up for the latter. My family and I had our extreme experience at in Artola, less than 30 minutes from Suitree, halfway to the Pacific coast (from $45). We also tacked on a walk through its monkey sanctuary (from $54).

Strapped into a full-body harness, each of us in a completely horizontal, prone position, we whirred through the jungle canopy on five different zip lines, the longest of which was a quarter-mile. I stretched my arms out to enhance the feeling of flying above the gorgeous landscape.

Details

An aerial view of Suitree Experience Hotel鈥檚 treehouse bungalows perched amid the rolling hills of Costa Rica's interior at dusk.
Night falls in the jungle. Suitree鈥檚 remote location means you鈥檙e surrounded by the sounds of nature throughout your stay. (Photo: Courtesy Suitree Experience Hotel)

Price: From $294

Address: Guanacaste, Sardinal de Carrillo
Obandito, 50503, Costa Rica

To Book:

Author Lisa Jhung takes a photo of the jungle with her phone while standing on the deck at Suitree Experience Hotel in Costa Rica.
Just can鈥檛 get enough: the author snaps more shots of the scenery during her summer visit. (Photo: Courtesy Lisa Jhung)

Raised near the coast of San Diego, but living a mountain life in Boulder, Colorado, Lisa Jhung finds every excuse to travel to a beach. That said, she found herself drawn to Costa Rica鈥檚 interior on this trip, wowed by its jungles, wildlife, and adventures. Jhung鈥檚 most recent articles for 国产吃瓜黑料 Online include a story on ways to make a family ski trips easier and the best winter running shoes.听

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Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/ofland-escalante/ Fri, 31 Jan 2025 10:30:33 +0000 /?p=2695121 Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too.

This lodge is all about its spectacular location, within a national monument and between two national parks. It also has fire pits, free s鈥檓ores, and access to endless trails and rivers.

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Want to Wake Up in Utah Canyon Country? We Do, Too.

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Ten feet overhead in a desert canyon in Utah, a jammed log spanned the gully, left by a recent flash flood. In the next passage in Harris Wash in听Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah, our group gazed up at a tangled brown stripe of debris from the same flood, adorning a green cottonwood tree like Spanish moss.

DeMarco Williams and Meredith Holser in a canyon in Utah
Two visitors, DeMarco Williams and Meredith Holser, enter a passageway in Harris Wash, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah. (Photo: Alison Osius)

All our lives we marvel at nature鈥檚 power. Here we also appreciated the immovability of geology鈥攔ock walls鈥攁s our group of nine, all staying in the region at听the complex, at first walked and then arduously wormed through a narrowing slot canyon. When the sides pinched down to only a foot wide, my friend DeMarco Williams, athletic and deep-chested, said from two feet ahead, 鈥淚 don鈥檛 know if I can do this.鈥 He was pinned.

Ofland Escalante, two miles from the town of Escalante, is situated amid the landscape of the national monument and between two national parks. (Video: Eric Vega)

I had it easier, being smaller. As a climber, I鈥檝e been in squeeze chimneys before; they can be awful and claustrophobic, and you just want out, but have to make it happen.

DeMarco pressed on, and something gave, and he scraped through the constriction. I followed, ducking, and emerged into the light, where he waited smiling. At each obstacle, following canyoneering practices shown us by Rick Green, owner of the guiding outfit , one of us waited to help the next person.

wedged log canyon Utah desert
A well-wedged log 10 feet above the sandy floor attests to the power of a recent flash flood. (Photo: Alison Osius)

This trip last August was to the treasure that is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, where friends and I all stayed two nights at Ofland Escalante, an ideal, central base located within the national monument and two miles west of the pioneer town of the same name. (Harris Wash was some 25 miles from town, with much of the drive on a washboard road.)

Not everyone in our group loved our several-hour canyoneering experience. Some cried, and some half-laughed, half-cried. But no one will forget it.

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Toward the end, having split into two groups (one with Amie Fortin of the same outfit), we all convened for lunch in a bowl among blunt buttresses that were once ancient sand dunes, the slickrock around us inscribed with fine criss-cross lines. Sage and grasses waved in the wind, with hardy pi帽on-juniper trees in clumps nearby. Paiute, Ute, and Navajo tribes once dwelled in this region. So did dinosaurs. We saw no one else all day.

Rick Green, owner of Excursions of Escalante
Lunchtime in a wide bowl: Rick Green, owner and guide at Excursions of Escalante, shares a laugh. The outfit offers slot-canyon hiking and canyoneering outings in the many canyons of the national monument. (Photo: Neil Tandy)

As we all looped back out of the canyon, we scrambled a little, but much of the return was just a quiet, reverent walk through washes and passages. Tracing the undulating wind- and water-sculpted walls, I peered into natural niches like little altars, holding swirls of sediment.

The Lodge

Closed each winter but slated to reopen March 12, Ofland Escalante is located just off Highway 12. Opened in 2021 on the site of an old RV park and drive-in movie theater, the place was in recent years, per the website, a 鈥渓uxury RV park鈥 known as Yonder Escalante. In May 2023 the new owners added 鈥渄eluxe鈥 cabins, and last year renamed the place (鈥淥fland鈥 is for 鈥渙f the land鈥). Ofland has varying services and prices, and brings people together in communal spaces.

deluxe cabin with deck and driveway at Ofland Escalante
A Deluxe Cabin has a deck with chairs and a table, and walls of windows.These cabins have private baths, but the others have shared ones labeled “spa quality,” with towels and blow dryers. (Photo: Alison Osius)

The place offers four types of accommodations. I bunked in a Deluxe Cabin, simple and boxy with floor-to-ceiling windows, able to sleep up to four people. Also available are vintage Airstreams, tiny cabins, and campsites.

The central common area draws visitors with a fire pit, picnic tables, complimentary hot drinks, and shelves of books, board games, and cards. Our crew brought over s鈥檓ores supplies from our rooms and gathered at the tables for spirited rounds of Uno.

common area at Ofland Escalante has drinks and fire pit
Visitors come and go under the central pavilion all evening, for the fire pit, s’mores, Uno, and old books. (Photo: Alison Osius)

On Ofland Escalante鈥檚 22-acre grounds, you can still enjoy the vintage outdoor 鈥渄rive-in鈥 theater, where you watch from inside one of nine in-situ classic cars. Other property diversions include a hot tub and swimming pool.

map of scenic highway 12 in southern Utah
Map showing scenic highway 12 and the region (Photo: Courtesy Ofland Escalante)

But the big deal is the place鈥檚 location amid the wonders of the Utah desert. The nearby town of Escalante is on the northern border of the 1.87-million-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and just off the 123-mile-long U of scenic highway 12, which runs between Panguich, 67 miles west of the town, and Torrey, 65 miles north of it. Escalante sits between two national parks, about 50 miles east of Bryce Canyon and 67 southwest of Capitol Reef. Highway 12 links them all.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

canyoneering Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
Meredith Holser sees the light while waiting for a slightly stuck companion. Canyoneering practice means passing backpacks forward out of narrow sections, and also, one person at a time, waiting to offer help to a companion reaching an obstacle such as a wall, jammed chockstone, or tree or stump. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Escalante (and Ofland Escalante) are in road-trip reach of five national parks, four state parks, another national monument, and the vast Dixie National Forest, all boasting a myriad of .

You鈥檙e also in the high-elevation desert here. The town of Escalante is set at 5,800 feet, and the surrounding area rises to about 8,600 feet, while reaches 9,000 feet. So ascend gradually and, while you are outside and exerting, pay attention to your water intake.

hoodoos in amphitheatre in Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon National Park, southern Utah, has one of the world’s largest collections of hoodoos, slender spires created by eons of erosion. Ofland Escalante is only two miles from the historic town of Escalante, 48 miles (an hour) from Bryce Canyon.听 (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Escalante is famous for its slot canyons, and Excursions of Escalante can take you out, set up rappels, and use their guides鈥 situational experience to avoid dangerous floods. The outfitters gave us packs, helmets, and water bottles, but you should arrive wearing good trail shoes and clothes that take being abraded.

 

A little on-site commentary from a canyon in Harris Wash, the Utah desert (Video: Neil Tandy)

A Utah friend tells me that , a 6.7-mile out-and-back starting 19 miles northeast of Escalante, is her favorite hike ever. It has birdwatching鈥攆or hawks and ravens, and she once saw a condor鈥攁nd 鈥渁 little of everything鈥 else, from steep sections to sandy patches and a 125-foot waterfall.

two hikers examine petrified rock at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park
Michelle Forsgren of Southwest 国产吃瓜黑料 Tours and Chris Outhier, visiting from Phoenix, examine a multicolored chunk at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. You can see the ancient tree bark and tree rings clearly.听(Photo: Alison Osius)

For me, a dark-horse favorite was also . We hiked the Rainbow section (and added a few other loops), where we saw petrified wood in scattered chunks, from wastebasket- to coffee-table size, with hues of sulphur yellow and iron red but also deep blues and violet. The starts on an uphill past a tram-size balanced rock overlooking Wide Hollow Reservoir, where you can camp, swim, or .

Please do not pocket any pieces of petrified wood. Things in the desert are supposed to stay there. Besides, I’ve , and taking one only brings you ill luck.

Choice Rooms

tiny cabins and vintage Airstream trailers at Ofland Escalante
Tiny cabins on the left abut the fleet of vintage Airstream trailers at Ofland Escalante. (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

My Deluxe Cabin鈥檚 outside shower was heaven. The water was plenty hot, and I could gaze out at the sky and the surrounding scrub-covered dun bluffs.

The Deluxe Cabins (from $259 per night) are the most cushy places, the only ones with private bathrooms and their own driveways. Each has a kitchenette and Wi-Fi, a deck with picnic table, and a queen bed and pull-out sofa such that it can sleep up to four. From the cabins it鈥檚 a five-minute walk to the main lodge. ADA cabins are available as well, and the lodge has golf carts for transport around the property.

Ofland Escalante Cabins
Ofland offers these tiny cabins and open fire pit, with a sheltered fire pit a few steps away in the central pavilion or common area. (Photo: Courtesy Kim and Nash Finley)

Other options include vintage Airstreams ($175 per night), which sleep up to three people, and tiny cabins ($169), located just paces from the common area. The cabins have front decks and the Airstreams step out to picnic tables and fire pits. Both use shared bathrooms with amenities and open-air showers.

interior of an Airstream at Ofland Escalante
Feeling nostalgic? You can walk back in time into a vintage Airstream. (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Ofland also has five campsites (from $99, per night). Each comes with a picnic table, grill, fire pit, filtered-water hookup, power, and bathroom access.

Eat and Drink

Pop over to the on-site food truck, prepare your own meals in your kitchenette, or go out for dinner at in the delightfully small and funky town of Escalante. 4th West offers 30 types of beers; burgers, paninis, and nice spicy tacos; a pool table, where my friends played half the night; and a nice local vibe. The evening was cool, so we skipped the outdoor seating, but in warm temps it would be wonderful to enjoy the view from there over dinner.

guest sits at Kiva Koffeehouse patio
Michelle Forsgren enjoys the patio at the Kiva Koffeehouse, with its views of the Escalante River Canyon and surrounding striated rock buttresses. (Photo: Alison Osius)

, 14 miles east of town and located within the national monument, is a magical-looking complex overlooking the startlingly green forest lining the Escalante River. It offers vegetarian-friendly Southwest fare, indoor and outdoor seating, and lodging.

Thirteen miles farther north is in the town of Boulder. The place, which has a devoted following, features ethically sourced ingredients and its own organic garden. The owners practice Buddhist principles and are committed to social responsibility.

At the end of Highway 12, in the town of Torrey, is the family-owned Wild Rabbit Cafe, with an on-site coffee roaster, and vegan and vegetarian options.

When to Go

Ofland Escalante is open mid-March through October. Spring and fall will have you cozying up around the fire pits, and maybe hitting the hot tub. Summer is bound to put you in the swimming pool. All indoor accommodations have heat and A/C.

How to Get There

classic view of Long Canyon
A dusting of snow accentuates the lines of Long Canyon, a hiking destination in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, east of Boulder, Utah. (Photo: Devaki Murch)

The small Bryce Canyon Airport is just four miles north of Bryce Canyon National Park, 48 miles from Escalante. Most visitors and rent a car for the amazing 294-mile drive south and back with its section on Highway 12.

Don鈥檛 Miss

Hike to the 100 Hands Pictograph Panel, actually site of three major rock-art panels, via a family-friendly 1.2-mile round-trip off Highway 12, starting from the Escalante River Trailhead 14 miles east of Escalante. Ancient petroglyphs鈥攕heep, deer, a snake鈥攁re visible just five minutes along the trail. The trail contours up to an alcove where you see the 100 Hands (more like 160 Hands) panel, and beyond that is the Shaman and Hunter panel, with a bowhunting scene and collection of shaman figures wearing headpieces.

Forty miles beyond Escalante, stop and get out at the Homestead Overlook, at 9,600 feet elevation, to see the tableau of the Grand Staircase鈥揈scalante National Monument, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Waterpocket Fold of Capitol Reef National Park, with their oceanic deposits and sedimentary layers, red and gold desert against the bumpy skyline of the Henry Mountains. Descending, you pass the Fishaven Reservoir and may see some sandhill cranes, before winding through the treed hamlet of Boulder, volcanic rocks and basalt scattered along the roadway.

Details

Price: From $99

Address: 2020 UT-12
Escalante, UT 84726

Alison Osius is a senior editor in travel at 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine and 国产吃瓜黑料 Online. She is a longtime climber and a former editor at Climbing and Rock and Ice magazines. She’s recently written about seeing the Utah desert from a lodge made of glass sky domes; hiking the memorial Storm King Trail, scene of one of our country’s greatest firefighting tragedies; and how to approach traveling to altitude (which starts with: paying attention). Oh, and if you were wondering, here are 8 simple rules for visiting your friends in mountain and waterfront towns.

Alison Osius in Harris Wash, Utah desert
The author in a passage in Harris Wash, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (Photo: Alison Osius Collection)

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7 Amazing Resorts in the U.S. and Canada That We鈥檇 Love to Return To /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-destination-hotels/ Mon, 30 Dec 2024 10:40:47 +0000 /?p=2693012 7 Amazing Resorts in the U.S. and Canada That We鈥檇 Love to Return To

Our travel writers spent weekends at some fabulous places: a red-rock retreat, stargazing domes, and one of the national parks鈥 hardest-to-book cabins. Here鈥檚 where we鈥檙e sending our friends next year.

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7 Amazing Resorts in the U.S. and Canada That We鈥檇 Love to Return To

If there鈥檚 one travel thing I splurge on each year, it鈥檚 amazing hotel stays. I鈥檝e no regrets, because they so often make for a next-level vacation.

This year 国产吃瓜黑料 sent me and some of our other travel writers and editors to check out new, recently revamped, or iconic properties that have been on our radar. Talk about unique adventuring in gorgeous locations鈥攐ne is in a deep red-rock canyon, another in a secluded dark-sky area, and still another has its own private entrance to a national park.

These are the places that blew us away. We鈥檇 return to any of them again.

Enchantment Resort

A bird's-eye view of the Enchantment Resort casitas amid pine trees and backed by the high walls of Boynton Canyon
Enchantment Resort was a 鈥渢ennis ranch鈥 in the 1980s; several courts remain, but the property is now noted for its award-winning spa and a place with great hiking in a canyon known as a vortex site. (Photo: Courtesy Enchantment Resort)

Sedona, Arizona

Price: From $400

Set amid the stupefying red-rock wonder that is Boynton Canyon, one of four major vortex sites in Sedona, my fall stay at Enchantment was emotional but also grounding. I hiked with one of the resort鈥檚 vortex experts, whose sage ceremony at a viewpoint overlooking the high-desert landscape made me feel lighter than I had in months. And my chakra-balancing treatment and sound bath at the guests-only Mii Amo spa were as fantastically spiritual and woo-woo as I hoped they鈥檇 be.

You could easily spend four days hiking or mountain-biking around Sedona. The property鈥檚 on-site Trail House is home to equipment and guides for both, and staff can organize far-flung excursions to the Grand Canyon in a helicopter and Prescott for climbing adventures, if your time and budget allow.

The resort鈥檚 Southwestern adobe architecture is designed to blend into the surrounding scenery, the indoor-outdoor restaurants are upscale but not stuffy, and the range of outdoor activities and classes is impressive: pop between its four pools, play tennis or pickleball, or sign up for yoga or . Staff are incredibly friendly, which is to be expected at destination resorts, but one thing that really stood out for me.

Of all the trips I took in 2024, my memories of this property have stayed with me most. And since my review came out, I鈥檝e received feedback from other guests who shared similarly moving experiences at Enchantment. It鈥檚 that powerful a place.

What I鈥檇 do differently if I returned: I wanted to head to one of the pools late at night and float around staring up at the stars, since Sedona is a Dark Sky Community. But the hiking and spa treatments had me fairly worn out by day鈥檚 end鈥攁nd sleeping soundly through the night.


Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon

new glamping resort Utah desert
The Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon collection of sky domes is tucked into a secluded valley near Bryce Canyon National Park. (Photo: Courtesy Alison Osius)

Cannonville, Utah

Price: From $525

When Alison Osius visited this new Clear Sky Resort in August, she was ready to spend hours admiring the starry skies鈥攖he main draw for guests who look forward to gazing up at the firmament from their own geodesic dome. Unfortunately, it rained during her short stay.

But Osius didn鈥檛 let bad weather dampen her exploration of Bryce Canyon National Park, just a 20-minute drive from the property. She motored around the park with a fourth-generation guide, hitting highlights like Natural Arch and the Bryce Amphitheater, both beautifully shrouded in mist, and got a hoot out of hearing about local escapades of legendary outlaw Butch Cassidy. Eventually, the clouds did clear and she was able to hike the 1.8-mile .

Clear Sky has some unique amenities, including a robot concierge who offers outdoor-recreation beta, a caf茅 with a gleaming boomerang-shaped bar, fire pits and cornhole, and stargazing tours. The domes themselves are fun, futuristic, and encourage group visits. Osius was surprised to learn that one has a dance floor, disco ball, and flashing lights.

Off-site, she was won over by the barbecue in a joint called in the town of Tropic, and loved the live cowboy music at in Bryce Canyon City. Her vacation gave her different viewpoints of the West and an appreciation of this area鈥檚 otherworldly landcapes, which include the greatest concentration of hoodoos in the world.

What Osius would do differently if she returned: A second visit would ideally happen when the stars were out and shining, said Osius, though she did think it was cool to watch rivulets of rain run down her dome. And the next time, she鈥檇 stay longer and hike way more in Bryce Canyon.


Lodge at Marconi

A group of people sit in Adirondack chairs around the central fire pit at Northern California鈥檚 Lodge at Marconi.
Lodge at Marconi鈥檚 evening fire entices guests from the surrounding lodge rooms to gather. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Marshall, California

Price: From $299

I鈥檝e visited several outdoor-adjacent properties in the Bay Area over the years, but none within a state park. The experience felt like a sophisticated, laid-back,听 improved version of summer camp. Lodge at Marconi is a newly remodeled, 45-acre property that spans from the water鈥檚 edge of eastern Tomales Bay鈥攁n hour鈥檚 drive north of San Francisco on Highway 1鈥攖o bluffs with incredible views westward to Point Reyes National Seashore and north to the Pacific Ocean.

The weekend I was in town, the property was hosting an indoor-outdoor wedding as well as young couples there with their toddlers and dogs, day-trippers picnicking beneath shady oaks, and friends using it as a base camp for a local foodie tour. Come dusk, everyone gathered around the massive communal fire pit and hung out for hours, occasionally popping into the on-site store for a bottle of regional wine.

This is a fantastic place to do some wildlife- and bird-watching. Wild turkeys were running around while I was there, and I spent 15 minutes one morning looking down at a huge school of fish feasting on bugs in the bay. Tule elk wander Point Reyes and elephant seals laze on its beaches. Bring your best binoculars.

One of the best things about Marconi, though, is its quick access to fantastic eating in these parts. The waterfront Marshall Store is just a mile away, the must-visit Hog Island Oyster Company a mile farther (take the tour and then have lunch), and, after that, Nick鈥檚 Cove, where I love to have a casual seafood dinner and drink. This trip I also wandered around the town of Point Reyes Station, eight miles south, where I discovered buffalo-milk soft serve and a sandwich shop with 18 gooey melts. Delicious, both.

What I鈥檇 do differently if I returned: The next time, I鈥檓 bringing my girlfriends, renting out Marconi鈥檚 spacious A-frame cabin, and enjoying an evening at its cute new little cocktail bar and restaurant, Mable鈥檚, which I missed because it opened two weeks after my visit.


Phantom Ranch

One of the 11 Phantom Ranch cabins designed by renowned architect Mary Jane Colter.
One of the 11 Phantom Ranch cabins designed by renowned architect Mary Jane Colter. This was where writer Stephanie Vermillion stayed in 2023. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

The Grand Canyon, Arizona

Price: From $213.50 for two people

It鈥檚 really hard to get a reservation to Phantom Ranch, a group of historic cabins and dorms at the floor of the Grand Canyon, and you have to try for one 15 months in advance. But Stephanie Vermillion lucked out and snagged a last-minute winter opening. Her review of the property offers tips to scoring a stay there, too.

If you are able to book Phantom Ranch, you also have to be prepared to get there. Vermillion chose the easier route down, from the South Rim: a seven-mile (one-way) zigzagging descent via the South Kaibab Trail that you have to then ascend after check-out. Pack light鈥攏o need to bring food, because you can pay for hot meals at the ranch鈥攁nd take your trekking poles. It鈥檚 about a vertical mile of elevation gain each way.

Worth it, said Vermillion, to stay in the stone cabins designed by renowned architect Mary Jane Colter. And to amble along the mightly Colorado River; if you have more than one night at the property, Vermillion suggests hiking the to Phantom Overlook. It鈥檚 nine miles round-trip but you鈥檒l see parts of the canyon seldom explored by visitors.

What Vermillion would do differently if she returned: I鈥檇 go lighter on the camera gear I brought鈥攖he weight of two cameras and a bulky tripod made the tough uphill return trip even more challenging.


Dunton Hot Springs

An in-room hot spring is the attraction at Dunton鈥檚 Well House Cabin.
Well House Cabin houses one of Dunton鈥檚 five hot springs鈥攖his one you can have all to yourself. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

Dolores, Colorado

Price: From $1,165 for two people

We鈥檙e recommending this ghost-town hot-springs resort, because it鈥檚 a secluded slice of the Wild West where you can not only soak to your heart鈥檚 content but also fish for trout, hike and bike the Rockies, and dine at a saloon. Writer Emily Pennington said it was the best wellness retreat she鈥檇 ever been to.

Dunton is located in southwestern Colorado, about 30 miles from beautiful Telluride. In the late 1800s it was a mining settlement, and Butch Cassidy actually scratched his name into the bar, which you can pony up to while you鈥檙e visiting. The 15 log cabins are cozy and encircle the wooden bathhouse home to a pool with rich mineral waters and decorated with a hammock and a small fireplace. When Pennington visited in March, the snow was coming down and the hot springs were just the respite she was looking for.

As anyone who lives in Colorado can tell you, March does not mark the end of winter. Pennington took a cat-ski ride up to Dunton Meadows and spent a few hours snowshoeing (the resort loans out gear). The next morning she took a yoga class. She made use of her room鈥檚 clawfoot tub. And she and the other five guests there at the time ate incredible meals, including blue-corn johnnycakes and house-cured bacon for breakfast, a hearty Mexican posole and tostadas for lunch, and a multi-course dinner that featured bison one evening. The whole experience was something she鈥檇 looked forward to for months鈥攁nd it did not disappoint.

What Pennington would do differently if she returned: As an avid hiker, Pennington loves the idea of exploring the stunning San Juan Mountains in the summer months. And that steamy, historic hot-spring building would look even more tantalizing after a thigh-busting trek, she said.


The Nami Project

An exterior view of The Nami Project, set against the cedar trees of a rainforest, with waves crashing against the rocky shoreline
The sound and the fury of winter weather draw trip-goers to Nami Project, where rooms look directly at the crashing swell of the Pacific.听(Photo: Courtesy Braden Stanley)

Ucluelet, British Columbia

Price: From $343

Western Vancouver Island is a known storm-watching destination, and 国产吃瓜黑料 travel columnist Jen Murphy had to experience it firsthand herself. So we sent her to Nami Project, a collection of suites that overlook the ocean, to watch the winter swells roll in from her room鈥檚 floor-to-ceiling windows.

But the views were too stunning for staying holed up inside. Murphy donned rain gear and set out to explore neighboring , hiking amid the tall Sitka spruce on a trail that hugs the coast. During the wildest storms, you can watch 20-foot-high waves crash into the coast. After braving the elements, Nami Project鈥檚 cedar hot tubs, sauna, and heated floors felt pretty great.

Tide-pooling, surfing, and hiking through the rainforest are popular activities year-round, and in the warmer months, you can rent a bike and pedal the 15 miles up to Tofino. Murphy, who is a foodie, also raved about the area fare, especially the hyperlocal tasting menu at the restaurant .

What Murphy would do differently if she returned: Witness the world’s largest gray-whale migration while soaking from her room鈥檚 hot tub. As many as 20,000 whales can be spotted swimming offshore beginning in February.


The Swag

A woman in the hotel pool, staring out at the Appalachians in the distance
Unbeatable pool views are part of the package at The Swag. (Photo: Courtesy The Swag)

Waynesville, North Carolina

Price: From $875, all-inclusive

Graham Averill and his wife spent a few glorious days holing up at The Swag and hiking from its 250-acre premises directly into Great Smoky Mountains National Park, a perk that offers your own private entrance to a lesser visited corner of America鈥檚 most visited national park.

The couple, who visited in late summer, spent an afternoon trekking through rhododendron tunnels and past a waterfall, topping out at a knob with valley views. Averill also did some trail running along a 5,500-foot ridge with spectacular panoramas to the distant Black Mountains. There were lawn games and a pool, and Averill鈥檚 room had a fireplace and an outdoor shower. Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton were in regular rotation on the house playlist.

Needless to say, you can work up an appetite here, and the reward is getting to indulge in home cooking. Averill couldn鈥檛 get enough of the grilled pigeon. And the iced tea. And the smoked Old Fashioneds. And the chocolate-chip pie served with ice cream. 鈥淓very course set in front of me was the best thing I鈥檇 ever had, until the next course came out and it became the best thing I鈥檇 ever had,鈥 he wrote.

The experience鈥攖he scenery, the proximity to the park, the opening drive from parking to the property in an electric Volvo XC90鈥攚as top-notch from start to finish. 鈥淚magine if your grandmother had generational wealth, exceptional taste, and lived to spoil you鈥攖hat鈥檚 what a stay at The Swag feels like,鈥 he said.

What Averill would do differently if he returned: The Swag鈥檚 super complex wooden jigsaw puzzle baffled Averill on his last visit, and he鈥檇 like to spend more time sipping cocktails in front of the fireplace while trying to put it together.


The author sits at a weathered picnic table, with Tomales Bay behind her and, farther in the distance, Point Reyes National Seashore.
The author enjoying a cool fall day at Hog Island鈥檚 Boat Oyster Bar, not far from Lodge at Marconi in Northern California听(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Tasha听Zemke is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 managing editor and a member of the 国产吃瓜黑料 Online travel team. She still has yet to satiate her wanderlust, and next year she鈥檚 most looking forward to attending Mountainfilm, in what her colleague called Colorado鈥檚 most beautiful town; hiking with friends in Ireland; and kayaking off Baja Sur, Mexico.

The post 7 Amazing Resorts in the U.S. and Canada That We鈥檇 Love to Return To appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Sedona鈥檚 Enchantment Resort Is a Powerful Nexus of Nature and Vortex Energy /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/enchantment-resort-sedona/ Fri, 15 Nov 2024 11:00:12 +0000 /?p=2687923 Sedona鈥檚 Enchantment Resort Is a Powerful Nexus of Nature and Vortex Energy

I was in need of transformation, but wasn鈥檛 so sure chakra-balancing treatments and hikes through a mystical vortex site would help

The post Sedona鈥檚 Enchantment Resort Is a Powerful Nexus of Nature and Vortex Energy appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Sedona鈥檚 Enchantment Resort Is a Powerful Nexus of Nature and Vortex Energy

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Why I Love the Enchantment Resort

A bird's-eye view of the Enchantment Resort casitas amid pine trees and backed by the high walls of Boynton Canyon
Enchantment was a tennis ranch resort in the 1980s; several courts remain, but it鈥檚 now known for its award-winning spa and great hiking in a canyon considered to be a vortex site. (Photo: Courtesy Enchantment Resort)

Sedona, Arizona, is best known听for two things: the stunning red-rock landscape, which draws thousands each year for hiking and mountain biking, and its vortex energy, a contested phenomenon that has drawn plenty of curious people and turned this high-desert city into听a metaphysical mecca. The is the nexus of both.

From its location at the base of Boynton Canyon, the 70-acre luxury property is surrounded by high sandstone cliffs听that make you and your problems feel minuscule (that鈥檚 a good thing). The canyon has long been considered sacred by Native people and, more recently, holy by pilgrims and unique by New Age mystics and psychics who believe in its spiritual powers.听Today, Enchantment Resort tends to draw guests seeking change in their lives, managing director Stan Kantowski told me, or those hoping for peace and resolution in the wake of some tough change. 鈥淚t鈥檚 an emotional place,鈥 he said.

The mystery of just how transformative an experience听this could be intrigued me. The regenerative powers of nature are proven, but would I feel different hiking in a high-energy vortex zone, said to induce physical effects like tingling or hair-raising?听Would I return home convinced in the merits of carrying crystals in my pockets, newly grounded by hours spent among听heavy red rocks that have loomed large here since before the dinosaurs? And would the Mii Amo spa鈥檚听long list of alternative (and expensive) treatments鈥攆rom sound baths and chakra balancing to manifesting-new-moon ceremonies and reiki鈥攔elease the bad and let in the good?

I wanted to be convinced, to be cared for. My personal life had been taking a nosedive, and I longed for something magical to happen. So I called one of my best friends to meet me for a short stay, and we headed there with open minds.

What Exactly Is a Vortex, and Why Is Sedona Known for Them?

A woman wearing a backpack and trail-running shoes looks out over the high-desert landscape above the Enchantment Resort to greater Sedona.
This is vortex country. Boynton Canyon, where the resort is located, is one of four major vortices in Sedona. The others are Airport Mesa (visible just left in the distance from Danielle Gill), Cathedral Rock, and Bell Rock (neither visible here). (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)听

A vortex is a spot where some people believe intense energy is emitted (called an electric vortex) or pulled back into the earth (a magnetic vortex). It is believed to occur the intersection of ley lines, or electromagnetic threads of energy that听crisscross the planet. Boynton Canyon is considered to be one of four major vortices within an 11-mile radius in Sedona, its energy electromagnetic鈥攁 combo vortex of sorts.

Where there鈥檚 talk of heightened energy, there鈥檚 talk of spiritual awakening. Exactly what that means and how the area鈥檚 vortex energy will work for you鈥攐r whether it will at all鈥攄epends on the person and their intentions. In short, Sedona is 鈥渁 place to feel alive,鈥 said Carina Leveriza, who moved here 13 years ago after her husband died. She hiked every day for months as a way to heal. Now she leads vortex treks at the Enchantment Resort.

鈥淲hatever you bring to the vortex will be amplified,鈥 she said when I asked her what I might expect after a hike up the canyon. 鈥淚f you鈥檙e happy, you鈥檒l be effervescent. If you鈥檙e grumpy, you鈥檒l be grumpier.鈥

Vortices are also thought to be portals to other dimensions, and especially so in Boynton Canyon. In her book Earth Frequency, Melissa Alvarez writes that 鈥渢he veil to other dimensions is believed to be thinner in Sedona than it is at other vortex sites鈥 (which, in the United States, include Mount Shasta, in California; Sugarloaf Mountain, in Utah; and Ni鈥檌hau Island, in Hawaii). The Sedona canyons are believed, she writes, to enhance 鈥渟piritual growth and an intrinsic connection to universal knowledge.鈥

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

Two women hike a trail amid ponderosa pines and high-desert brush at the base of the Boynton Canyon Trail in Sedona, Arizona.
Heading into the back of Boynton Canyon via its eponymous trail. Bears live here, as do javelinas, mule deer, coyotes, and bobcats.听(Photo: Courtesy Danielle Gill)

Enchantment Resort offers access to 400 miles of trails, for hiking and mountain biking (with equipment available from the on-site Trail House), and staff can arrange guided tours to suit your interest and skill level.

My friend Danielle Gill and I set off on the easy 2.6-mile Boynton Canyon Trail one afternoon with Leveriza, who was a fount of good energy, eager to tell us personal stories and lore, receptive to our infinite inquiries, and generally ambling along in an upbeat way. The beautiful sandy path led past pines and succulents, and Leveriza stopped occasionally to point out some of the more than 180 ancient cave dwellings on the box canyon鈥檚 walls, quartz crystals (said to be a source of clarifying energy) flecking the red rocks, and twisted tree trunks and branches that she told us were evidence of the canyon鈥檚 spiraling vortex effects.

鈥淗ike with intention,鈥 she said, then asked us to stay silent for a few minutes to consider what was deep in our hearts. 鈥淧sychics have said that what pierces the portals here are our intentions.鈥

I vowed to have more resolve, to be more joyful, to devote more time for myself, and to make hard decisions rooted in kindness and fairness. In the quiet of the canyon, it all seemed possible.

As we arrived back at the resort, a group of women were meditating on the lawn. Javelinas munched the grass, and two deer hoofed slowly up a hillside toward a casita. Leveriza directed us to an incredible vista overlooking the property and the rock massifs听that make the greater Sedona panorama so magnificent. She lit a sage smudge stick, waved it slowly around our heads, and recited a meditation, the smoke lingering in the air as if it were a spirit listening in, too.

An older couple relaxes in the outdoor jacuzzi at the Enchantment Resort鈥檚 Mii Amo spa, with a soaring canyon wall in the background.
Mii Amo鈥檚 outoor pool (with a Jacuzzi, right) is one of four at the resort. All of the pools have incredible canyon views that beg you to look up and consider your place in the whole of things. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Hiking was a highlight for me, but Enchantment has several other recreational options, including swimming in four pools, stargazing鈥擲edona is an International Dark Sky Community鈥攁nd, in winter, a 鈥済lice rink鈥 for outdoor skating. There are tennis and pickleball courts; yoga, Pilates, and qi gong classes; chanting sessions; and educational sessions on nutrition and juicing. Curated, private high-end offerings around northern Arizona are also enticing,听if your budget allows, and include heli tours to the Grand Canyon; sommelier-led wine tours of Paige Springs, a growing viticulture destination; and climbing excursions in Prescott.

At the resort, the deeper dive into self tends to happen at Mii Amo spa, which reopened in 2023 after a multimillion-dollar renovation. Considered one of the best spas in the nation, it鈥檚 open only to Enchantment guests. Treatments aren鈥檛 cheap (the least expensive is $250 for 60 minutes), but there are many鈥攎ore than 50鈥攁nd they head into metaphysical terrain not normally on offer at a resort spa. I wanted to sign up for the hourlong sound bath to reduce stress, meditate deeply by walking a labyrinth, get a numerology or tarot or pendulum reading, undergo hypnosis to delve into past-life regression, and treat my doshas with a balancing wrap. When would I ever see a menu like this again?

A woman walks up steps to the Mii Amo spa at the Enchantment Resort
The entrance to Mii Amo. In addition to special seasonal treatments, it offers an array of treatments for body and soul for guests ages 16 and older.听(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)听

Instead, I opted to have my chakras (which I knew nothing about) balanced. The therapist who led me though this treatment was empathetic, her voice soothing, her touch gentle. I lay prone on the massage table, and as she rocked my body back and forth, I started heaving huge quiet sobs. She continued as if my crying was the most natural thing in the world, telling me that my heart chakra must have been blocked. I flipped over, and she massaged my muscles using a different scented oil for the 鈥攆ocal energy points in the body鈥攁nd then placed polished gemstones atop each, to amplify those energies.

I was tired. I padded to the lower floor of the spa in my slippers and robe to the dry and wet saunas and hot tub, and rotated between them all for another half-hour.

The Crystal Grotto at the Enchantment Resort鈥檚 Mii Amo spa has a sandy floor and a crystal platform in the center, as well as four different crystals marking the four compass points, situated around the circular room.
Mii Amo鈥檚 Crystal Grotto holds twice-daily guided sound baths. The sand floor is designed to ground you. On the summer solstice, light hits the crystal in the center of the room.听 (Photo: Courtesy Douglas Friedman)

That evening I popped into the Crystal Grotto, a dark, circular room with crystals the size of cats demarcating the four compass points. Before entering, you鈥檙e invited to write down something you鈥檇 like to let go of, with the promise that the sheets of paper would be burned, releasing those troubles to the universe. Then you remove your shoes so you can feel the bare ground beneath your feet. I wrote a note and deposited it into the little box of burdens; I curled my toes into the soft sand; and as the听grotto guide took up a singing bowl in the low light, I closed my eyes and zoned in on the听humming sounds, which research has shown to . Good vibrations.

Choice Rooms

Guest rooms are decorated in traditional southwestern style with kiva fireplaces and ceilings of wooden viga beams. The adobe style of the exterior is also typical of the Southwest,听and its color blends seamlessly into the canyon. (Photo: Courtesy Enchantment Resort)

The听resort has 38 adobe-style casitas, housing a total of 218 guest rooms, each with its own patio and views of the massive canyon walls. My room, 180, was spacious, with a living-room area adjacent to a queen bed, and a large bathroom with a deep bathtub. It was a five-minute uphill walk to the main reception area and restaurants, but guests anywhere can call for golf-cart service.

I asked the bellhop and our hiking guide which rooms were considered the best. Both liked casita buildings 37 and 38, situated higher on the grounds and deeper within the canyon than the rest. They face the eastern walls of the canyon, which glow in hues of orange, red, and russet as the sun sets.

Eat and Drink

At all of the resort鈥檚 three restaurants, the whole-foods-focused menus and relaxed ambiance come served with vast views. The hardest restaurant to book is Che Ah Chi, more of a fine-dining experience, but the one I liked the best is its newest, Hummingbird, located within Mii Amo. I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast there one morning while gazing up at hawks drifting in the thermals near the canyontops. The clouds looked liked they鈥檇 been painted by Georgia O鈥橩eeffe.

At the Enchantment Resort鈥檚 Mii Amo spa, the new Hummingbird restaurant has an outdoor terrace with canyon views.
The terrace at Hummingbird, the resort鈥檚 newest restaurant (Photo: Courtesy Douglas Friedman)

Off-site, I was wowed by , a vibrant, popular local place just 13 miles from the resort. On offer are 20 kinds of smoothies, superfood coffees, tonics, juice blends, and a grab-and-go selection of healthy treats that you can take to the trail. This being Sedona, you can also pick up herbal supplements targeted toward better focus, energy, mood, and sex drive.

A woman looks at the Local Juicery鈥檚 refrigerated selection of 26 juice combinations and "milks" (nut- or seed-based drinks) in Sedona, Arizona.
Some of Local Juicery鈥檚 selection of juice blends and nut- or seed-based 鈥渕ylks鈥澨(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Finally, for cheap eats, I asked locals for their recommendations. They like the Oak Creek Brewing Co., Eriberto鈥檚, Layla鈥檚 Bakery, and , for fresh tamales made daily.

When to Go

A car drives down the main road away from the Enchantment Resort in Sedona, Arizona. Snow covers the peaks of Boynton Canyon in the background.
The colors of Boynton Canyon pop after a dusting of snow. The 37-year-old resort, located at the end of the canyon road, is set at an elevation of 4,500 feet鈥攁bout 3,400 feet higher than Phoenix.听(Photo: Courtesy Enchantment Resort)

Spring and fall, when the weather tends to be most pleasant in northern Arizona, are the busiest months at Enchantment Resort. March sees the most rain.

The hottest month in Sedona is July, with an average high temperature of 97 degrees, though the summer monsoons, which usually听begin in June and can last as late as August, bring cooling afternoon rains.

December and January are the coldest months, with an average high of 57 degrees. While it only snows in Sedona a handful of times each year, staff tell me that Boynton Canyon covered in snow is a sight to behold. Guests in December can also look forward to live music every night.

How to Get There

Most out-of-state visitors fly into Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport, rent a car, and motor the 126 miles north via Highway 260.

I road-tripped in from New Mexico, and swung down from Flagstaff, a spectacular drive south on State Route 89A through Oak Creek Canyon鈥攚here the fall foliage was a brilliant听yellow in September鈥攁nd past Slide Rock State Park. It鈥檚 slow going, because everyone is rubbernecking at the scenery, but I thought of it as the easy introduction to, and grand finale of, my wellness journey at the resort.

Don鈥檛 Miss

A quartz bracelet, tiger eye stone, and brochure and report on the author's chakras.
Fun finds at Mystic Bazaar: a strawberry quartz bracelet, for inner love; a tiger eye gemstone, for strength;听a printout of the author鈥檚 aura; and a pamphlet on chakra balancing.听(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Crystal shops are everywhere in Sedona. Give in to your curiosity and check them out; it鈥檚 part of the woo-woo experience here, especially for first-time visitors.

Danielle and I spent an hour at 听after our spa treatments at the resort. We picked out gemstone bracelets for friends and mementos for ourselves. We had our aura photos taken; I听was happy to read that mine was reportedly now strong and radiant (no doubt thanks to my balancing session at Enchantment) and that my predominant color鈥攇reen鈥攔eflected growth and joy.

We weren鈥檛 able to book an immediate consultation with a medium or psychic鈥攖he time slots for the remainder of the afternoon were all taken. Maybe next visit.

***

After a few days at Enchantment Resort, I’d eaten well and exercised, I’d soaked up the vortex vibe in a beautiful canyon, and I’d pondered spiritual growth in a new way. I felt lighter about life. Maybe it was simply the effects of finally being on vacation after a lot of weary workweeks. But two months later, I still feel changed by the experience. I believed鈥攁nd that鈥檚 a big part of any trip here鈥攖here was genuinely something to it.

Details

A twisted juniper tree and a large agave plant.
The twisted nature of this juniper tree in Boynton Canyon is said to be evidence of the spiral energy found in vortices. To the left of it are agave plants.

Price: From $400

Address: 525 Boynton Canyon Road
Sedona, AZ 86336

To Book:


The author sitting on a log in Sedona鈥檚 Boynton Canyon
The author in Boynton Canyon听(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Tasha Zemke is 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 managing editor. She formerly lived on the Sicilian island of Pantelleria, where the phrase 鈥渁nything is possible鈥 was a common saying听and her in-laws believed in the evil eye. Her truest faith is in nature鈥檚 power to heal.

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What It鈥檚 Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah’s Darkest Skies /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/clear-sky-resorts-bryce-canyon/ Fri, 01 Nov 2024 10:00:32 +0000 /?p=2687158 What It鈥檚 Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah's Darkest Skies

I stayed in these glass-walled geodesic domes under dark skies, just a few miles from Bryce Canyon National Park and its world-renowned concentration of hoodoos

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What It鈥檚 Like to Stay in a Glass Dome Under Utah's Darkest Skies

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

Waking up in the middle of the night can be maddening. Unless you’re able to gaze directly up at the firmament.

The skies are the star attraction at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, a new property set in a quiet gulch just 16 miles southeast of Bryce Canyon National Park. Far from light pollution and adjacent to this certified International Dark Sky Park, it offers superb stargazing by night and an otherworldly landscape by day.

Bryce Point, Bryce Canyon National Park
The famous Bryce Point overlook at Bryce Canyon National Park, about 20 minutes away from the resort. The park offers the world’s greatest collection of the slender rock spires known as hoodoos. (Photo: Courtesy Peter Densmore/NPS)

Most nights, that is. I could consider it unfortunate that rain fell during my visit, but precipitation is good for the high desert. And while I lacked lucid starry skies, I enjoyed a daytime rainbow and an evening lightning show, both plenty compensatory. Upon waking at first light鈥攗sually discomfiting to this night owl鈥擨 watched raindrops run peaceful rivulets down the glass wall of my geodesic dome.

The resort is a collection of these futuristic structures, their surfaces half-glass and half-paneled. The window sides of each dome face up and also away from other units, though as darkness fell, I couldn鈥檛 help wondering (hey, a little) about anyone looking in. But all I had to do was close the lower tier of curtains, leaving the top ones open for viewing.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
All about the windows. Looking out through the glass triangles from within a dome. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Hal Feinberg, resort founder and co-owner, said in the dining hall that evening that he came up with the sky-dome idea after seeing a teepee hotel in Livingston, Montana, that felt close to nature yet offered decks and nice indoor furniture.

In 2021, he opened Clear Sky Resorts Grand Canyon, 30 miles from the South Rim, with 45 sky domes that, like the ones in Utah, are connected by paths to shared activity spaces. With the Bryce iteration, Feinberg upgraded from using clear PVC canvas windows to ones made of glass. The result, he said, 鈥渋s like going from a Chevy to a Corvette.鈥

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon opened August 9. It currently offers 25 domes, out of an intended final total of 62. Also underway is an employee-housing structure for up to 40 people.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon, Utah
High-stakes cornhole out on the deck at a three-gen family reunion (Photo: Alison Osius)

This is luxury glamping with a jazzy, celestial theme. In the lobby, I passed a robot whose concierge duties include greeting guests by name and pulling up hiking maps. The nearby dining-hall dome, also known as the caf茅, featured a gleaming central boomerang-shaped bar. That evening as friends and I stared out of the caf茅鈥檚 28-foot-tall window, the amber lights lining the surrounding gravel paths and access road glowed like airport jetways.

A singer-guitarist played during dinner, and afterward, between showers, we hung out around the decorative fire pit on the deck. Daytime, people lounged there at the outdoor tables, and a grandfather smiled as his two grandsons went at it with cornhole.

Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
So we got rainy skies, but hard to complain when a rainbow lights up the sky. Dome Number Six, aka Milky Way. (Photo: Alison Osius)

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

You can sign up for stargazing tours and outdoor yoga, or walk a pleasant mile or two around the property on the gravel paths and roadway. A nearby option is to drive ten miles to the northernmost hike in the national park, the moderate (0.8 mile one-way, with just 150 feet of elevation gain). This waterfall hike, a rarity for the area, winds along the park boundary.

Queen's Garden Trail, Bryce National Park
Bryce Canyon from the bottom: on the Queen’s Garden Trail, underneath the Queen Victoria hoodoo. (Her silhouette is the second hoodoo in from the right). (Photo: Neil Tandy)

But most visitors are here to explore the heart of . Friends and I intended to hike with April LeFevre, a fourth-generation area resident who drove shuttle groups in Bryce for 18 years before opening her own outfit, . Rain, however, nixed the morning鈥檚 hike, and instead we motored along on the main park road, UT-63, which stretches 18 miles north to south. Before doubling back to finish at the famed Bryce Amphitheater overlook near the entrance, we marveled at seeing the arch at Natural Bridge, 12 miles in, and two miles later the Hunter spire at Agua Canyon, come in and out of the mist.

Natural Bridge, Bryce
Natural Bridge emerges for a moment from the mist. Rock windows, like the area hoodoos, are formed of erosion and the ice-expansion that occurs in freeze-thaw cycles. Bryce, located in the desert but at altitude, receives both above- and below-freezing temperatures over 170 nights a year. (Photo: Alison Osius)

Along the way, LeFevre recounted many local tales, including that of LeRoy Parker, later known as the outlaw Butch Cassidy, who grew up 50 miles away in Circleville. His life changed when he was 13, LeFevre said, after he visited a mercantile to pick up a pair of overalls he鈥檇 had repaired, and, finding the place closed, slipped through a window to take them and a pie. He left a note regarding payment, but the owner pressed charges. Though acquitted, the youth henceforth resented authority. LeFevre also said that while Cassidy is thought to have died with his partner, the Sundance Kid, in Bolivia, an area rancher (now long gone) told her that Cassidy had returned to Circleville. The rancher claimed to have given the former robber a ride in his wagon. Some say Cassidy is buried in a secret location in Circleville.

Anyone visiting the park will want to see the spindly hoodoos, striated in red, gold, and white. Bryce Canyon has the greatest concentration of hoodoos in the world: 12 amphitheaters of them. According to an ancient Piaute , the hoodoos were once people who鈥檇 committed evil acts. A coyote spirit invited them all to a party, to trap them, and turned them to stone.

Queen's Garden Trail, Bryce Canyon, Utah
Visitors hike along Queen’s Garden Trail, the least arduous of the trails dropping from the rim into the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater. However, all the hikes are at altitude, increasing the difficulty for most people. (Photo: Alison Osius)

In geological terms, the hoodoos and holes in the walls are remnants from 50 million years ago when the area was a lake surrounded by rock walls. The spires formed from erosion, weather, and ice expansion during freeze-thaw cycles.

Later, when the clouds cleared, our crew hiked the , a 1.8-mile round-trip, to reach a formation that supposedly looks like Queen Victoria. I didn鈥檛 think too much of the resemblance, but marveled at the views of endless golden towers and labyrinths. This hike is commonly for a stellar three-miler. I鈥檇 have loved to do the 4.2-mile hike to see the top-heavy hoodoos of the .


Bryce is known as an otherworldly place to see the sunrise (head to Sunrise Point) as it lights up the hoodoos. Rangers offer in the park as well, and doing that would be amazing.

Full moon hike past hoodoos in Bryce Canyon
Rangers in Bryce Canyon National Park offer full-moon hikes (by reservation). (Photo: Courtesy Gaelyn Olmsted/NPS)

The landscape is also a bird-watchers鈥 dream, drawing hawks, eagles, peregrine falcons, and swifts. I delighted in seeing both ponderosa pine, which smells of vanilla, and, at the highest point of the canyon, ancient twisted bristlecone pines. The mellow one-mile cuts through a forest, with side views of hoodoos. (This trail is considered largely wheelchair accessible, with assistance.)

Much of the hiking at Bryce begins at about 8,000 feet, and the Bristlecone Loop reaches 9,100 feet, so in coming from lower elevation, be prepared to deal with altitude. Always bring water and pay attention to intake.

towers at Bryce Canyon National Park
Looking down from the 5.5-mile Rim Trail into an expanse that includes the freestanding tower of Thor’s Hammer, seen dead center (Photo: Alison Osius)

Choice Rooms

The Standard Sky Domes sleep two. I stayed in a Deluxe, called Milky Way, with more controls for lights and temperature and vents than I possibly knew what to do with. The place had a patio (some have decks) and kitchenette, a king bed and two twin beds in a loft, and a rad shower with six adjustable side jets. The Milky Way ($730) was dubbed an XL in that it slept four, and I thought about how much fun (aside from the snoring) it would be to have my husband and two sons here.

swinging chair in a dome at Clear Sky Resorts Bryce Canyon
Yes, this chair was comfortable, as well as cool-looking. I swing-tested it too. (Photo: Alison Osius)

The designs varied. One friend stayed in a two-occupant Deluxe called the Big Dipper ($630) with no loft but a cool swinging chair. Another was in Nova ($680), also double occupancy, that had, I kid you not, a dance floor, disco ball, and flashing lights. There鈥檚 a two-suite dome that sleeps eight ($1,125) if you want to go big.

Eat and Drink

The resort鈥檚 Sky Nova Caf茅 Bar and Grill, open to the public, affords wall-to-ceiling views of the canyon and sky and has a lot of fun themed touches, like little inverted domes within the water glasses and crazily multicolored silverware.

Entr茅es are generously sized and range from $20 and to $35, though the 20-ounce Atlas Ribeye is $49鈥攁nd that thing is a brick. I ordered the heavenly pan-seared Titan鈥檚 Trout with lemon-dill sauce.

i.d.k. barbecue in Tropic
Maybe you didn’t know how much you liked barbecue or even how hungry you were until going into the casual i.d.k. Barbecue in Tropic, Utah. (Photo: Alison Osius)

I didn鈥檛 know I liked barbecue that much until I had lunch at i.d.k. Barbecue, six miles from the resort in the town of Tropic. While I had the sweet chicken and baked beans, also on offer were pulled pork, beef brisket, slaw, potato salad, and cornbread.

Ebenezer鈥檚 Barn and Grill, 15 miles away in Bryce Canyon City, is a popular 鈥済ourmet cowboy鈥 music hall, with a fixed-price meal served to hundreds in turn. The night we visited, Due West, a country band founded in Nashville, Tennessee, played original tunes.

Ebenezer's Bar and Grill
Ebenezer’s Bar and Grill packs them in, in this case for original music and tales told by Due West out of Nashville. (Photo: Alison Osius)

When to Go

Clear Sky is open year-round, as is Bryce Canyon. Most visitors to the park come from June through September to take advantage of the warmer weather and clearest skies. The months of October through May are cooler but the upsides are fewer crowds, autumn foliage, and spring wildflowers. Some say the park is at its most beautiful with white snow atop the red rock.

How to Get There

The small Bryce Canyon Airport is just four miles north of the park. Most visitors fly into Salt Lake City and rent a car for the spectacular 294-mile drive south.

Don鈥檛 Miss

Bryce Canyon Lodge, Bryce Canyon National Park
Meeting hall with impressive stone fireplace in the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge, set in the forest just 700 feet from the canyon rim (Photo: Alison Osius)

Stick your head into the lobby of the Bryce Canyon Lodge, built in 1924 in the Rustic style of national-park architecture and one of some half dozen lodges designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it meshes development, landscape architecture, and the environment. The lodge is located in the forest only 700 feet from the canyon rim, and a beautiful half-mile walk from Sunrise Point.

Details

Price: From $525
Address: 855 UT-12, Cannonville, UT 84718

888 704 4445

To Book

 

Alison Osius is a senior editor at 国产吃瓜黑料 and part of the travel team. She lives in Western Colorado. Previously, she had only flown over Bryce Canyon, though in a small plane with a sunset view. This was a prized chance to explore the park from the ground.

author photo Alison Osius
The author was weathered out some of the time in Bryce Canyon National Park. Still, it’s magical to see towers and other formations come in and out of the mist. (Photo: Neil Tandy)

Looking for more great travel intel?

For more by this author, see a personal tale of years of hiking the Storm King Memorial Trail, just off Interstate 70, in Western Colorado, site of a famous firefighting tragedy.

See also this tribute to the most beautiful mountain town in Colorado.

And a lifetime’s accumulated camping tips.

 

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The Lodge at Marconi Opens the Door to Gorgeous Nature and an Incredible Local Food Scene /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/lodge-at-marconi/ Fri, 20 Sep 2024 10:40:50 +0000 /?p=2682425 The Lodge at Marconi Opens the Door to Gorgeous Nature and an Incredible Local Food Scene

Hidden along Highway 1, not far from the elk and elephant seals of Point Reyes National Seashore and celebrated oyster farms, the camp-like retreat is drawing city-goers eager to be surrounded by wilderness

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The Lodge at Marconi Opens the Door to Gorgeous Nature and an Incredible Local Food Scene

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

From my perch on the pine-covered grounds at the , I was staring down at Tomales Bay, an hour north of San Francisco, trying to make out what was splashing in the water. My mind went to the most obvious place: sharks.

In late summer, the white shark is known to frequent northern Tomales Point, on the Pacific. I calmed down, then reasoned: Maybe bat rays. The shape billowed and shrunk and appeared to be made up of separate pieces. It had to be a school of fish. Beautiful. I鈥檇 never seen anything quite like it.

Access to nature on this gorgeous, quiet stretch of Northern Cal abounds at Marconi. The newly remodeled, 45-room property feels like a sophisticated, laid-back, improved version of summer camp. But one with a sauna to shake off the coastal fog after a day of adventuring, a bar serving harder-to-find regional wines, a massive central fire pit for evening gatherings in the woods, and an ideal position on Highway 1 for quick foodie field trips or wildlife-watching.

In the span of a few hours, I observed a great blue heron stalk a gopher, a bugling bull elk with five-point antlers court a handful of females, and a wild turkey sprint across the road.

The Lodge

The setting is a hilly 62-acre , with a curious recent past that still resonates with the Bay Area鈥檚 present. In the early 1900s, Italian inventor Guglielmo Marconi used the site as a receiving station to test long-distance radio signals鈥攁 precursor to today鈥檚 Wi-Fi and the Bay Area tech community. In the sixties, the property changed hands from innovative to more eccentric owners: the founders of Synanon, which began as a therapeutic drug-rehabilitation center but was eventually called out as and closed.

Today the Lodge at Marconi is all good vibes. The September weekend I visited, I shared the property with a large wedding party, young couples carrying toddlers and strolling trails with the family pup in tow (dogs are welcome overnight), and day-trippers picnicking at tables shaded by oaks and surrounded by pink lilies, with postcard views of moored fishing boats bobbing at high tide.

Marconi is on the verge of attracting considerable attention from Bay Area city-dwellers seeking a rural, comfortable hideout they can head to with family and friends. An on-site indoor-outdoor restaurant will open at the end of September with dinner service and a small bar. A day spa is in the works, as is a vegetable garden and farm-style cottages.

Eight miles south, the town of Point Reyes Station has a burgeoning artist and music scene, says Leah Fritts Vitali, Marconi鈥檚 general manager, who has resided down the road for 12 years.

鈥淭here鈥檚 an energy shift happening,鈥 she told me, one that seems to reflect the interests and values of more visitors. Marconi appeals to those who want to learn about and buy food grown locally, eat meals made from scratch, and spend time exploring protected lands, notably Point Reyes National Seashore, across the bay. 鈥淗ere you have the wilderness and a luxury lodge at a state park, and then this great community. Is this the benchmark of what鈥檚 to come elsewhere?鈥

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

A panorama view of Tomales Bay and, across the water, Point Reyes National Seashore, California.
The panorama from the state park鈥檚 high point extends north to the Pacific and west to Point Reyes National Seashore.听(Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

The state park is crisscrossed by 3.5 miles of gently graded hiking trails. On an afternoon stroll, I topped out at the knoll called Tower Hill and looked toward the mouth of the narrow bay and across the water to the Point Reyes peninsula. Coastal clouds slid lazily over the low hills.

When the weather holds, the lodge offers free outdoor yoga on Sunday mornings, an ideal way to take in the eucalyptus- and pine-scented air. There are horseshoes and cornhole and volleyball and basketball courts. And whether you intend to or not, you鈥檒l be birding; I saw turkey vultures, red-tailed hawks, and woodpeckers during my stay. If you鈥檙e looking for something rare, keep your binocs trained to the shoreline at the base of the property for , a threatened species.

A flat trail on the Lodge at Marconi premises passes by trees covered in a unique lichen and sprays of pink naked lady lillies.
Trails at the Marconi property pass by 150-year-old trees covered by lichen only found on the eastern side of Tomales Bay and, in fall, pops of Naked Lady lilies, which are drought tolerant. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Trips afield should definitely be part of your stay at Marconi. Reception staff can book horseback riding, photography safaris, and kayak rentals or guided tours of the bay鈥攊f your stay coincides with a new moon, be sure to get out on the water one night to paddle through the .

Before check-in, I spent the morning hiking the 9.7-mile (round-trip) at the northern tip of Point Reyes in search of the resident Tule elk herd. I came upon a half dozen after a mile, practically right next to me, and another handful ambling up steep bluffs through the mist about a mile later. The park has countless possibilities for recreation, is a quick and beautiful 11-mile drive from the lodge, and admission is free.

Choice Rooms

An interior shot of a queen bed and side tables at the Lodge at Marconi.
The author鈥檚 room at the property; to the left, upstairs and not fully visible, is the loft space with a single bed, accessed via a staircase; to the right, also not visible, is a window facing moss-covered pines and the bay. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Marconi鈥檚 midcentury-modernistic buildings blend into the forested surrounds, with the fire pit as focal point. The popular spot is ringed with Adirondack chairs and just a quick trot to the lobby鈥檚 grab-and-go store, stocked with snacks and drinks. I loved how the main cluster of rooms so thoughtfully brought folks together.

If you鈥檙e a family, request one of the room configurations with a central downstairs bed and a loft with a second bed. I heard the mom in the room next to mine use that as an enthusiastic pitch to her youngster: 鈥淟ook, your own space!鈥 If your group is looking to sleep up to six, book rooms 304 and 305, which connect.

If you鈥檙e a couple here for a secluded getaway for two, the homey, singular A-frame is the best nest. The newlyweds who were married at the property holed up there, canoodling on the sunset-facing deck that overlooked the bay and eastern shores of Point Reyes. It provides a full kitchen, a huge, handsomely tiled bathroom with a tub, a spacious living room, and a king bedroom at the structure鈥檚 apex.

A shot of the Lodge at Marconi's A-frame cabin, looking from its spacious living room out to the porch and Tomales Bay in front of it.
The A-frame, built during the Synanon era, is the only lodging of its kind on-site. (Photo: Courtesy Asher Moss Photography)

Eat and Drink

Starting September 30, you can amble the short distance from your accommodation to a brand-new 63-seat restaurant and bar called Mable鈥檚 (a loose acronym for the marine atmospheric boundary layer鈥攖he air that cools the Northern California coast in summer). The Mediterranean menu and wine and cocktails will draw largely from local ingredients, and by the end of 2025, Mable鈥檚 is expected to offer breakfast and bag lunches that you can stick in your daypack.

If you鈥檙e like most foodies, though, you already have a list of places nearby you intend to check out. One of those is probably the famous . Breakfast pastries from its downtown Tomales location are delivered to the lodge for guests to purchase, but you should go for yourself to indulge in the mouth-watering scents and test your power of restraint in the face of so many variations of warm bread. The waterfront Marshall Store, just a mile from the lodge, has all kinds of homemade sandwiches, soups, and goodies to satiate you during 听your stay or bring home to gift.

The Belly and Jelly melt from The Farmer鈥檚 Wife
The Belly and Jelly melt from The Farmer鈥檚 Wife (Photo: Courtesy Keren Espinoza )

I like to have lunch in Point Reyes Station at the , a micro food hall. Pony up to The Farmer鈥檚 Wife for some gooey goodness鈥攐ne of its signature seasonal melts. The menu boasts 18 of these sandwiches, and the Belly and Jelly鈥攚ith bacon, apricot conserve, and aged Cheddar and blue cheese鈥攊s a customer favorite. What I鈥檓 suggesting next could be dairy overdose, but you absolutely can鈥檛 leave town without trying Double 8 Dairy鈥檚 buffalo-milk soft serve paired with whichever daily fermented fruit soda Wild West Ferments has on tap. The combo is a one-of-a-kind . I鈥檒l say no more.

When to Go

A male Thule elk, lifting his five-point-antlered head up to bugle
Tule elk are the continent鈥檚 smallest species of elk, but a bull鈥攕een here, calling to his brood鈥攃an still weigh as much as 700 pounds. At last count, there were about 700 elk in Point Reyes. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Fall is the heralded season in West Marin, when the marine layer gives way to more frequent sunny days; that said, you should always pack a puffy and expect evenings that drop to the fifties this season. Elk rutting happens from August through October, when males are their most vocal.

Fritts Vitali likes the 鈥渄rama of the weather鈥 in winter. December is when elephant seals begin to appear on beaches at Point Reyes National Seashore, where they remain generally until March.

The spring months are the greenest of the year. Wildflowers are in full bloom mid-April through mid-June, and the spring bird migration is celebrated with a three-day in April.

Four species of whales can be spotted off the Pacific in the summer months. August through November, Tomales Bay tends to have more nights of bioluminescence, because the water is warmer and calmer鈥攅specially enjoyable conditions for night kayakers.

Visitors keep a safe distance from a vocalizing elephant seal bull at Drakes Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore.
Visitors to Point Reyes鈥檚 Drakes Beach share the shoreline with elephant seals certain months of the year. (Photo: Paul Chinn/The San Francisco Chronicle/Getty)

How to Get There

You鈥檒l want a car to reach the Lodge at Marconi and make the most of your time in the area. The closest airport is in Santa Rosa, 40 miles northeast, but if you鈥檙e coming from farther afield, fly into the international airports in San Francisco and Oakland, both some 60 miles south.

One word of advice: If you鈥檙e headed up from San Francisco and prone to carsickness or vertigo, avoid Highway 1. The more streamlined route to Marconi is via Highway 101, turning west in Novato and continuing to Point Reyes Station.

Don鈥檛 Miss

A tray of local sweet water oysters set amid ice, with a cup of lemons and some hot sauces and mignonette sauces placed within.
An oyster tasting for four people at Hog Island, with your choice of embellishments (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Although there are a handful of farms that harvest oysters in Tomales Bay, is my favorite, and here鈥檚 why: not only is it the most convenient to the Lodge at Marconi, but it鈥檚 sustainable, founded by two marine biologists devoted to responsible practices, and the only such local farm to offer regular educational tours to the public ($48).

Marconi staff can secure you a spot here鈥攖he 75-minute tours book up in advance, so it helps to have an in. You won鈥檛 go out on the water but you will have a chance to see the construction of the oyster beds, understand the whole process from seed to table, and end your schooling with a primer on how to properly shuck the bivalves and a tasting.

Lunch is set on a weathered wooden table at Northern California鈥檚 Hog Island Oyster Farm: a peach, tomato, and fennel dish, halibut ceviche, a Bloody Mary, and a platter of nuts and local cheeses.
Lunch is served at Hog Island鈥檚 Boat Oyster Bar, with a sampling of local produce, fish, and cheeses. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Stick around for a fantastic brunch at its simple and scenic bayfront Boat Oyster Bar. The ripe tomato, peach, and apple salad I ordered (above left) was just as bright as the sweetwater oysters in mignonette sauce, and all of it washed down nicely with one of the best sake Bloody Marys of my life. Tops.

Details

Guests sit in Adirondack chairs around a blazing fire one evening at the Lodge at Marconi in Northern California.
Guests enjoy the nightly fire and the warmth of each others鈥 company. (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Price: From $299

Address: 18500 Highway 1
Marshall, CA 94940

To book: Click to get a 15 percent discount when making your reservation or听 (If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.)

The author sits at a weathered picnic table, with Tomales Bay behind her and, farther in the distance, Point Reyes National Seashore.
The author enjoying a cool fall day on the bay at the Boat Oyster Bar (Photo: Courtesy Tasha Zemke)

Tasha Zemke is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 managing editor and a member of its online travel team. She thinks the greater Tomales Bay area is one of the best places in the world to work up an appetite outdoors and reward yourself with amazing locally sourced food and drinks.

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How to Get a Reservation at Phantom Ranch, the Grand Canyon鈥檚 Most Sought-After Lodge /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/phantom-ranch/ Fri, 26 Apr 2024 10:45:57 +0000 /?p=2666051 How to Get a Reservation at Phantom Ranch, the Grand Canyon鈥檚 Most Sought-After Lodge

Historic Phantom Ranch is the only park lodging on the floor of the Grand Canyon. Tens of thousands of people try to book a stay there, and very few get in. But our writer scored a night there recently, and if you follow her tips, you can, too.

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How to Get a Reservation at Phantom Ranch, the Grand Canyon鈥檚 Most Sought-After Lodge

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

If Grand Canyon National Park is for the masses鈥攁nd in 2023 it was America鈥檚 second most visited national park, with nearly five million visitors鈥攖hen historic , an architectural marvel located far from the crowds on the canyon floor, is for the chosen 1 percent. Literally. Its digs are so popular that they book up 15 months in advance via a lottery, and only 1 percent of anyone who visits the park ever stay here.

But my husband, Frank, and I got lucky. We scored one night there at the last minute in December.

The Phantom Ranch cabins were built in 1922 and initially only hosted those with enough time and wealth to reach the bottom of the Grand Canyon, where they often stayed for weeks.
The cabins were built in 1922 and initially only hosted those with enough time and wealth to reach the bottom of the canyon, where they often stayed for weeks. (Photo: /)

We鈥檇 planned our trip to the Grand Canyon six months ahead of time, nabbing a backcountry permit to stay at the nearby Bright Angel Campground, whose 33 sites are vied for by tens of thousands of people, up to four months in advance. (According to the , you have about a 43 percent chance of booking a stay here.) But I continued to check the every few weeks, just in case. Then, two days before our flight to Arizona, I nearly fell out of my chair: one of its 11 cabins was available.

Frank and I spent the entirety of our seven knee-grinding miles zigzagging down the switchback-laden South Kaibab Trail swapping variations of 鈥淚 can鈥檛 believe this is happening!鈥 The jaw-dropping natural attractions along our 4,600-foot descent only increased our awe鈥攖he gradual trek down through 1.8 billion years of geologic history, stored in strata of red rocks; the powerful Colorado River carving through them; and the possibility of seeing resident animals around any turn, from bighorn sheep and mule deer to pack mules toting supplies.

It wasn鈥檛 until we hit the canyon floor four hours later that our good fortune really set in, confirmed by a simple signpost: 鈥淧hantom Ranch Welcomes You.鈥 This dream trip was really happening. Here鈥檚 how we did it and how to make the most of your time below the rim.听

Booking and 国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

Each year the Grand Canyon sees some five million visitors. Only 1 percent ever make it into the base of the canyon.
Each year the Grand Canyon sees some five million visitors. Only 1 percent ever make it into the base of the canyon. It鈥檚 worth it. (Photo: Courtesy National Park Service)

One thing I couldn鈥檛 wrap my head around was how in the world Phantom Ranch was built. While I thought our rim-to-river trek was grueling, it was a cakewalk compared to those of construction crews in the 1920s. Renowned architect Mary Jane Colter wanted structures to incorporate native materials, particularly stone, for both a natural aesthetic and more efficient building process. While mules hauled supplies like windowpanes and plywood, crews and their working animals alike slogged up and down the vertiginous switchbacks and across narrow swinging bridges (later replaced with two sturdy steel suspension bridges that you cross today).

These efforts were all the more mind-blowing as we tackled the same exhausting route in and out of the canyon with nothing but our packs, and the feat only adds to Phantom Ranch鈥檚 allure.

All that to say: If you plan to hike to and from Phantom Ranch, you should be prepared and in good condition. It鈥檚 steep, challenging, and can seriously strain your knees (I highly recommend trekking poles). By the time you reach the bottom, it won鈥檛 be lost on you that you鈥檒l have to regain the elevation you lost鈥攁lmost a vertical mile鈥攕hortly thereafter on your way out (a maximum stay is four nights).

Fortunately, if you鈥檙e staying at Phantom Ranch, you can pack light, since food is available and bedding and towels are provided. You can also send your duffel up and down via a mule to travel even lighter; it costs $85.50 each way.

A convoy of mules herded by two riders heads up a trail from the canyon floor.
Mules have been a mode of transportation into the canyon for over a century, and they continue to haul packs and other supplies regularly from rim to river. (Photo: Getty/Peter Unger)

The Park Service tells trekkers that hiking out of the canyon generally takes twice as long as the journey in. It recommends using the steeper South Kaibab Trail down to the ranch and the Bright Angel Trail听out, because the latter has a gentler elevation gain over a longer distance. I鈥檝e written more about both options below, in How to Get There.

How to Land a Reservation at Phantom Ranch

  1. Start with the . This is an adventure in itself. Aspiring guests enter the drawing 15 months before their preferred dates, then learn their fate and next steps the following month via email. Any unsold inventory then goes through a second lottery for those who were unsuccessful in the first round (14 months out from your desired dates). December through February tends to be an easier time to get in, while early March through November are typically when visitors make the most requests.
  2. Look for any unsold inventory. If there鈥檚 still availability after the first two lotteries, Grand Canyon鈥檚 concessionaire, Xanterra, which operates Phantom Ranch, releases those cabins to the public on the first day of the next month鈥攕o 13 months out. This inventory is posted on the , which I bookmarked and checked regularly.
  3. Watch for cancellations if you can鈥檛 get in either of these ways. According to Xanterra spokesperson Sam Langner, finding a last-minute reservation 鈥渉appens all the time.鈥 Take my stroke of luck as proof. I picked up another insider tip over dinner at the Phantom Ranch canteen. A tablemate and 20-time ranch guest said that he checks for inventory around 45 days out from each trip. That鈥檚 because Xanterra has a for Phantom Ranch; guests who opt out before this will get a full refund, which means that anyone on the fence tends to cancel around this time.
  4. Apply for a backcountry permit for the adjacent Bright Angel Campground, available through (from $10 per permit, plus nightly charge of $15 per person). It may not be the full experience of Phantom Ranch, but campers can book dinner at the ranch鈥檚 canteen to get a sense of this legendary property.
  5. Join a tour. If the aforementioned logistics sound too cumbersome, this is the one surefire way to get in. Outfitters like and run Grand Canyon trips with an overnight or two at Phantom Ranch; they handle all booking, planning, and organization, but it comes at a price (from $3,299 and $1,650, respectively).

What to Do near Phantom Ranch

Many outdoors people dream about hiking or running the Grand Canyon from rim-to-rim or rim-to-rim-to-rim, but if you鈥檙e not in a hurry, what can you actually do down at the canyon floor?

The author's husband walking a trail that runs parallel to the Colorado River at the base of the canyon.
The author鈥檚 husband enjoys a ramble along the Colorado River, where cottonwoods were still golden-hued in December. Compared to the millions of visitors who never venture farther than the rim of the canyon, exploration the canyon floor鈥攔elatively quiet in comparison鈥攊s a unique experience. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

First, relax. We spent the sunny hours after we arrived playing cards. Then we gave our legs a shake-out on the nearby river loop,听a roughly two-mile path that crosses the Bright Angel Trail Bridge and skirts the Colorado before heading back toward Phantom Ranch across the South Kaibab Trail Bridge. It was a peaceful amble with a gentle grade鈥攁 welcome treat after the morning鈥檚 schlep鈥攁nd we enjoyed the slow pace and time to appreciate a rare view of this section of the canyon, pausing on the bridges to admire the rushing Colorado River and gazing up into the time capsule of rock, whose lower layers predate even the first land animals.

If you have more time than just one night at Phantom Ranch, you might enjoy the nine-mile (round-trip) jaunt to Phantom Overlook via the . You鈥檒l get to see a stretch of red crag few ever explore, with only 1,600 feet of elevation gain.

Choice Cabins

The author poses for a selfie inside one of the Phantom Ranch cabins.
The interiors of the cabins are rustic but the beds are comfortable, there鈥檚 hot water, and you don鈥檛 have to haul a heavy pack with supplies for miles in and out of the canyon. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

Phantom Ranch is the definition of . Its century-old buildings, made largely of native stones and boulders from nearby Bright Angel Creek, include cabins, a canteen, and hiker dormitories (which have been closed for several years due to needed pipeline and water-treatment improvements, with no reopening date set, according to Langner).

Cabin sizes vary and can sleep from two to ten people, and all accommodations share shower facilities. Rustic though they may be鈥攜ou鈥檒l be set up with either a queen bed or twin bunk beds, linens, a sink, a toilet, soap, and hand towels鈥攖hey do have a few nice amenities like electricity, air-conditioning in the summer, and heating in the winter. Wi-Fi is not available.

Instead of picking a cabin as you would at most national park lodges, the Phantom Ranch lottery is random. You won鈥檛 learn your cabin number until you arrive.

Eat and Drink

Hikers wait their turn in line at Phantom Ranch's canteen.
Phantom Ranch鈥檚 canteen is where meals are served, snacks and sundries are sold, and some quenching lemonade can be had. (Photo: Courtesy Julia Renn)

The first thing to know: everyone raves about the ranch鈥檚 lemonade. It鈥檚 a generic, sugary mix, but it tastes top-shelf after hours of trekking in and is a lovely way to celebrate your arrival to the canyon floor.

All Phantom Ranch guests eat family-style meals in one central dining room, known as the canteen. It鈥檚 a laid-back environment where you can swap stories and share travel tips over breakfast (from $31) and dinner (from $61). Both meals require advance reservation and payment; Xanterra suggests booking meals as soon as your accommodation is confirmed, as seating fills up quickly. However, you can buy snacks and drinks from the canteen during the day; cash or credit cards are accepted.

For dinner, there are two seatings: an earlier round at 5 P.M., in which steak is served, or a stew round at 6:30 P.M., with a choice of a meat or vegetarian option. In addition to the main course, everyone is offered salad, homemade cornbread, and a dessert du jour鈥攚hich for us was a deliciously gooey brownie. After that the canteen morphs into a beer hall, where guests can keep the trail talk going late.

Similarly, there are two time slots for breakfast鈥5:30 A.M. and 7:30 A.M.鈥攂ut both serve the same menu of pancakes, scrambled eggs, bacon, and fruit, as well as juice, coffee, and tea.

While we packed our own lunch of jerky, nuts, and granola bars for the day of departure, you can buy a take-away sack (from $26); inside each is a bagel with cream cheese and jelly, a sausage, an apple and an energy bar, cheese, and an electrolyte drink or juice.

When to Go

The weather at the Grand Canyon is best in spring and fall. In the summer months, the heat can be extreme (surpassing 100 degrees Fahrenheit), especially on the canyon floor, which year-round can be 20 degrees warmer than that on the rim, given the elevation change.听 Winter on the canyon floor ranges from 38 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit, while spring and fall see anywhere from 55 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit, according to Xanterra.

Unpredictable weather and potential snow, particularly toward the rim, can hamper winter trekking to and from the ranch, so pack accordingly. It does get warmer as you trek down in the winter, so wear layers you can easily shed. (When we visited in early December, we came across a light dusting of snow on the rim but had sun and temperatures in the high fifties at the ranch.) Winter also brings decreased daylight hours, so start your hikes in and out of the canyon early, and pack a headlamp to be safe.

How to Get There

The South Kaibab Trail at dawn shows off the Grand Canyon鈥檚 varied colors of reds.
A sight to behold: the Grand Canyon at dawn from the South Kaibab Trail, with wonderful hues of reds鈥攁nd not another human being in sight. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

To reach Grand Canyon National Park (which requires a $35 entrance fee or an America the Beautiful pass), you could fly to Tusayan, Arizona, the closest airport, although many visitors simply road-trip from Las Vegas or Phoenix, both approximately four hours from the park鈥檚 south entrance.

From there, getting to Phantom Ranch itself requires one of three transit modes: a trek, a raft down the Colorado River, or a mule ride.

If you鈥檙e hiking, start your journey from either the North or South rim. Trips from the former cover more ground. The trip via the North Kaibab Trail is around 14 miles one-way, with a rim-to-river elevation loss of 5,850 feet. From the South Rim, the more popular starting point given its accessibility, you have two options: the 7-mile South Kaibab Trail, with an elevation change of 4,860 feet, or the 7.8-mile Bright Angel Trail, with an elevation change of 4,460 feet. Bright Angel is the Park Service鈥檚 recommended route out of the canyon; it reopened to the public on April 15 after months of maintenance-required closures.

You can also raft to Phantom Ranch with outfitters like (from $2,050) or (from $3,899).

And then there are the famous to Phantom Ranch, an option run by Xanterra (from $1,231). However, mule-ride operations have recently experienced on-and-off closures due to trail-infrastructure projects, so it鈥檚 best to check听for the most up-to-date information before making plans.

Don鈥檛 Miss

Starry skies shine brightly above the cabins and trees on the Grand Canyon floor.
The stars at night are big and bright, deep in the heart of the canyon. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

In 2016, light-pollution authority DarkSky International certified the Grand Canyon as an International Dark Sky Park. In the years since, ranger-led stargazing tours have become one of the most popular experiences鈥攁nd, from my nights of astrophotography here, I could see why, as the park鈥檚 efforts to curb light pollution have made sightings of planets, the Milky Way, and even nearby galaxies like Andromeda easily visible to the naked eye. The view gets even more glittery from the remote canyon floor.

Details

Yellow and blue inflatable rafts along the wide Colorado River have been brought ashore near Phantom Ranch.
Several outfitters run rafting trips down the Colorado River that either start or end at Phantom Ranch. (Photo: Courtesy Stephanie Vermillion)

To book:

Price: From $213.50 for two people per night; additional guests in cabins with larger capacity are $21.50 per night

Address: North Kaibab Trail
North Rim, AZ 86052

The author posing with her backpack in front of the Grand Canyon
The author in front of the Grand Canyon (Photo: Courtesy Frank Forde)

Stephanie Vermillion is a travel writer, photographer, and 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor based in Cleveland, Ohio. Her mom, who once worked at Grand Canyon National Park and raved about the below-rim adventures, inspired her to visit Phantom Ranch. The best part of the trip, she says, was sharing the trail with a bighorn sheep on the early-morning ascent.

The post How to Get a Reservation at Phantom Ranch, the Grand Canyon鈥檚 Most Sought-After Lodge appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Looking for a Wild West R&R Getaway? This Colorado Hot Springs Is Your Answer. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/dunton-hot-springs/ Fri, 19 Apr 2024 10:30:49 +0000 /?p=2665170 Looking for a Wild West R&R Getaway? This Colorado Hot Springs Is Your Answer.

Colorado鈥檚 Dunton Hot Springs was revamped from a mining town that once hid outlaws. Now it鈥檚 a secluded outpost where you can fish for trout, hike the Rockies, overnight in a log cabin, dine at a saloon鈥攁nd soak your heart out amid nature.

The post Looking for a Wild West R&R Getaway? This Colorado Hot Springs Is Your Answer. appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Looking for a Wild West R&R Getaway? This Colorado Hot Springs Is Your Answer.

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think, Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there? We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

I never imagined that staying in a ghost town frequented by outlaw Butch Cassidy would amount to the most fabulous wellness retreat I鈥檝e ever experienced, but then again, is full of surprises.

Strung out and exhausted after two straight months of work trips, deadlines, and family emergencies, I needed a break, and one that wouldn鈥檛 be interrupted by errant phone calls or the incessant whooshing of Colorado traffic. I鈥檇 seen photos of Dunton鈥檚 five steamy hot springs and knew that the 1,100-acre property鈥檚 location鈥攖ucked away in a beautiful valley of southwest Colorado, roughly 32 miles from Telluride鈥攚as just the respite I was after. I booked a two-night stay.

Dunton Hot Springs in summer is a joy to behold, surrounded by soft green and hillsides ready for roaming.
The settlement of Dunton was abandoned by miners by 1905 and became a ghost town. But today it鈥檚 a year-round outdoor playground. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

Dunton is comprised of 15 log cabins built at the turn of the century and encircling a wooden communal bathhouse and saloon. At first glance, the property looks more like a well-preserved mining village than a luxurious resort with a world-class spa and locally sourced meals. Snow was positively dumping as my friend Lexi and I pulled up its dirt driveway in March in her Subaru. We were greeted warmly by Lee Pillaro, Dunton鈥檚 activities manager. A quick tour totally bowled me over; the entire property听has been thoughtfully designed so guests can drop their worries at the door and truly unwind. Eureka.

The recently remodeled historic saloon and dance hall are complete with a massive communal table, rust-red wagon-wheel chandeliers, and the original settlement鈥檚鈥檚 wooden bar, which boasts two spots where Cassidy scratched his name.

Next was the moment we鈥檇 been waiting for: a visit to the bathhouse. It was so dreamy it nearly made me cry. Upon entering, to my right hung a lacy ivory-colored hammock; fragrant ponderosa and aspen smoke drifted toward the rafters from a small fireplace; and just beyond floor-to-ceiling windows stood an outdoor Scandinavian-style barrel sauna. But the pi猫ce de r茅sistance was its hot-spring soaking pool, five feet wide and three inches deep and taking up more than half the room. It鈥檚 been in use for more than 100 years and is haloed by verdant hanging vines and framed with monstera.

A woman soaks in Dunton's bathhouse, whose large windows look out at the mountains and a grove of aspens.
Restorative waters: the bathhouse pool鈥檚 calcium-bicarbonate hot springs are rich in iron, manganese, and a touch of lithium. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

It almost didn鈥檛 matter which of the property鈥檚 bohemian cabins we鈥檇 been assigned or what sweat-inducing activities we鈥檇 enjoy over the next three days. I knew where I鈥檇 be spending all my free time.

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

Unlike a lot of luxe retreats centered around a spa or hot-springs experience, Dunton is remarkably well-rounded, with a bevy of outdoor activities throughout the year for both hardcore adventurers and those who prefer leisurely walks in the woods.

During the resort’s busy season, summer, alpine wildflowers pop and fly-fishing is the highlight for many guests.听鈥淭his is one of the best places in the country to catch a grand slam,鈥 Pillaro told me, referring to anglers on a mission to hook all four species of trout鈥揷utthroat, rainbow, brook and brown鈥揻ound in the West Dolores River.

Two men try their luck fly-fishing in the West Fork of the Dolores River, Colorado.
Bring your rod and reel and ask the guides at Dunton what鈥檚 biting along their nine-mile stretch of the Dolores River.

Other popular summertime options include hiking to and , both of which can be done solo or with a hired Duntonguide. The resort also maintains a three-mile hiking trail with spectacular views into aspen- and conifer-lined river valleys. Horseback riding, mountain biking, and tastings at , 60 miles south in Cortez, are available, too.

If you鈥檙e game for a longer drive, Dunton Hot Springs is within day-trip distance to Canyon of the Ancients National Monument (61 miles) and Mesa Verde National Park (74 miles), both home to outstanding examples of Ancestral Puebloan ruins and petroglyphs. The adorable mountain town of Telluride is also worth visiting, known for its world-class skiing in听winter and its waterfall-strewn hiking trails in summer. You can stay in downtown Telluride at (from $608) if you elect to spend the night.

A woman in a colorful jacket has made first tracks with her snowshoes in a field looking at a gorgeous snowy mountain near Dunton Hot Springs, Colorado.
A snowcat will ride you up to 10,000 feet elevation, where you can set off snowshoeing or cross-country skiing with amazing views of the San Juan Mountains. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

When I visited Dunton in March, winter was still in full swing, and I was pleasantly surprised by the number of things to do, even when a mere six guests were staying at the resort and flurries were a common occurrence. A 45-minute snowcat ride (free to guests looking to nordic-ski on Wednesdays and Fridays) brought Lexi and I to the sprawling, powder-filled expanse of Dunton Meadows, with views of the surrounding sky-high peaks, including 14,252-foot Mount Wilson. We popped out and were temporarily blinded by the reflection of sunlight against the freshly fallen layer of white, but soon donned a set of snowshoes borrowed from the resort (cross-country ski gear is also available) and traipsed across the groomed three-mile nordic ski track. We gleefully returned to our cabin, shed our snow gear for swimsuits, and hit the hot springs. I also signed up for a free yoga class the following morning, to stretch out before hitting the road.

Choice Cabins

An in-room hot spring is the attraction at Dunton鈥檚 Well House Cabin.
Well House Cabin houses one of Dunton鈥檚 five hot springs鈥攖his one you can have all to yourself. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

Every cabin at Dunton Hot Springs is drop-dead gorgeous and decorated with original artwork and trinkets that the resort鈥檚 owners, Katrin Bellinger and Christoph Henkel, have amassed on their travels abroad. Lexi and I stayed in the during our sojourn, spreading out to enjoy its two bedrooms, each with its own bathroom and one featuring a clawfoot tub from a local brothel. (Vertical also has a loft with additional beds, and the entire cabin can sleep up to six, making it ideal for families or groups of friends. Like many accommodations at Dunton, it鈥檚 also dog-friendly.)

The interiors of Vertical Log Cabin are cozy and roomy.
The author and a friend stayed in the 1,400-square-foot Vertical Log cabin, which has two king beds and two full beds. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Chuck鈥檚 Cabin is the newest addition to the property, boasting a king bedroom, a queen bedroom, and two bedrooms with bunk beds for kids. Couples on a romantic retreat might prefer the Well House听cabin, with its own private hot spring and cold plunge. Echo听is the most affordable option at Dunton, with just 230 square feet of space and an outdoor-only shower.

The cabin Echo set against the hillside and wild grasses of summer, with a pathway leading to its entrance and two chairs.
Small-but-charming Echo (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

Two miles downriver is , a sister property managed as a separate resort from June through mid-October (from $2,192 for two people). With eight palatial canvas tents, all-inclusive food and beverages, and views of the West Fork of the Dolores, it goes way beyond most glamping. Pro tip: arrange a specific time with the resort if you鈥檙e interested in soaking in the hot springs.

Eat and Drink

A winter soup starts dinner one night at Dunton Hot Springs.
A winter soup starts the three-course meal one evening at Dunton. All meals are included in the price of stay. (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

All food and beverages (including alcoholic ones, save anything from its reserve list) are included at Dunton Hot Springs, so most guests elect to dine at the saloon and dance hall during their stay. I opted for that, as Dunton does a phenomenal job of sourcing sustainable ingredients, butchering its meat in-house, and catering to guests鈥 dietary restrictions.

Breakfast at Dunton

Served between 8 and 10 A.M., breakfast might include house-cured bacon, egg-white frittatas, blue corn johnnycakes, and smoked Rocky Mountain trout on locally baked bagels. A grab-and-go snack box atop the bar is stocked with items for those who want a few extra calories to help power their morning activities.

Lunch at Dunton

Depending on your exploration plans, lunch might be a wrap and a bag of chips or, alternatively, a fixed menu in the communal dining hall. One afternoon Lexi and I sat down to a hearty Mexican pozole with freshly prepared tostadas topped with smashed avocado and lime.

Dinner at Dunton

Supper, a fixed menu, was a special treat both nights. My favorite menu was a mouthwatering endive salad with Roquefort cheese, a cut of Native Plains bison with a smoked sweet potato puree, and house-made apple tartlets. As a fervent tea snob, I鈥檓 happy to report that the property鈥檚 tea menu is very on point.

Further, not only does the kitchen purchase a whole hog every week, staff also make a concerted effort to maximize that meat for everything from ham for lunch sandwiches to dinnertime pork roasts to happy-hour charcuterie.

When to Go

Snow covers the landscape many months of the year, but Dunton in winter has its appeals and recreational vehicles鈥攆at-tire biking.
Snow covers the landscape many months of the year, but Dunton in winter has its appeals and recreational vehicles鈥攆at-tire biking. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

There鈥檚 no bad time to visit Dunton Hot Springs, but you should consider the types of activities you鈥檙e interested in before swan-diving into the booking process. Keep in mind that its location at a lofty 8,850 feet elevation means snow can linger into June. During the warmer months (July through September), hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, and fly-fishing are going to be impressive. Late September through early October, fiery fall colors enhance the stands of aspen dotting the surrounds. And in winter, the hot springs are a great juxtaposition to snowy outings; these months also tend to be quieter, with fewer children and guests in general.

How to Get There

Dunton is convenient to four different airports, all of them the tiny regional sort. The closest is Cortez,听which is an hour鈥檚 drive from the property and sees direct flights from Denver and Phoenix. The airports in Durango, Telluride, and Montrose are farther afield. Road-tripping in from Denver or out of state? Make sure you to the hot springs before you lose cell reception.

Don鈥檛 Miss

The ancient cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park are an ideal way to get an understanding of Southwest history.
The ancient cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park are an ideal way to get an understanding of Southwest history. (Photo: Getty/YinYang)

Mesa Verde National Park, a 90-minute drive away, has some of the best-preserved Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings in the world. If you鈥檙e more interested in a townie adventure, check out Telluride. In addition to all manner of sports on its eponymous mountain, I like the cheekily named , which has been independently owned and operated since 1974. It鈥檚 hard to beat the Detroit-style pie at , or if you鈥檙e looking for a more refined good time, the , located within the Madeline Hotel, has fabulous cocktails and outrageously good charcuterie (think Humbolt Fog goat cheese, fresh honeycomb, and 箩补尘贸苍 from Iberian acorn-fed pigs).

Details

The 19th-century wooden bathhouse lit up to welcome guests with a hot-springs pool indoors and one outside.
The 19th-century bathhouse, with a hot spring inside and one outside, means you can soak however it pleases you, at whatever hour, in whatever weather. (Photo: Courtesy Dunton Hot Springs)

To Book:

Price: From $1,165, all-inclusive for two people; two-night minimum required

Address: 8532 Road 38
Dolores, CO 81323

Author Emily Pennington relaxes at Mystic Hot Springs in Utah
The author at Mystic Hot Springs in Monroe, Utah (Photo: Courtesy Emily Pennington)

Emily Pennington is a frequent 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor based in Boulder, Colorado. Her work has appeared in听 The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Cond茅 Nast Traveler, and Lonely Planet, and others. When she鈥檚 not backpacking through the Rockies, she鈥檚 hell-bent on soaking in as many steamy hot springs as possible.

The post Looking for a Wild West R&R Getaway? This Colorado Hot Springs Is Your Answer. appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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