Fishing Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/fishing/ Live Bravely Thu, 25 Sep 2025 21:00:37 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Fishing Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/fishing/ 32 32 These Remote Lodges Are a Dream Escape for Anglers and Wildlife Lovers /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/anglers-vancouver-island-resorts/ Fri, 05 Sep 2025 21:00:45 +0000 /?p=2714497 These Remote Lodges Are a Dream Escape for Anglers and Wildlife Lovers

Moutcha Bay and Newton Cove Resort are sister resorts on Vancouver Island's 鈥渟almon highway鈥

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These Remote Lodges Are a Dream Escape for Anglers and Wildlife Lovers

Ever come across an incredible hotel that stops you mid-scroll and makes you think,听 Wow, wouldn鈥檛 it be something to stay there?听We do, too鈥攁ll the time. Welcome to听Friday Fantasy, where we highlight amazing hotels, lodges, cabins, tents, campsites, and other places perched in perfect outdoor settings. Read on for the intel you need to book an upcoming adventure here. Or at least dream about it.

After a long day of travel, I woke up and walked outside my cedar yurt overlooking the Nootka Sound on Vancouver Island. The still green water perfectly reflected the tree-covered hills and mountains on the opposite shoreline, as the heavy fog slowly gave way to sunlight. A few anglers prepped their boats for a day of fishing, while a lone sea lion briefly made an appearance before disappearing under the water. Two chatty kayakers paddled across the bay, while some double-crescent cormorants made a momentary appearance before disappearing into the fog. I could have sunk into a lounger and watched the scene for hours, but there were too much to get into here to stay idle any longer.

This July, I traveled more than 2,500 miles to catch some wild Pacific coho salmon and check out two fishing lodges I鈥檇 been hearing so much about. and , both owned by Nootka Marine 国产吃瓜黑料s, are located on the coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, surrounded by Sitka spruce forests and the Pacific Ocean鈥攁nd minutes from 鈥渟almon highway,” a prime spot to catch salmon on their migratory path June though September.

Lodging

The two lodges each have their own appeal. Moutcha Bay is a little bit fancier, with the cedar yurts and waterfront chalets almost demanding you slip into a fluffy robe, sink into a comfy chair, and stare out into the surrounding beauty. Newton Cove is more remote, only accessible by seaplane or boat. Comfortable outdoor seating areas, each surrounding a propane fire pit, encourage camaraderie among the anglers. It is the perfect spot for spinning stories about the ones that got away.

Newton Cove Resort is a floating wilderness resort tailored to anglers.
(Photo: Newton Cove Resort)

My first day on the water was mostly spent looking for bears and other wildlife, eventually making do with a gaggle of sea otters floating across the water and the occasional bald eagle overhead. The other boat passengers and I eventually made our way to Yuquot, a small First Nations village where we briefly chatted with Sanford Williams, a master carver of totem poles as he labored on his newest creation, and then hiked to a rocky beach where we had a light lunch.

After two nights at Moutcha Bay, I took a 45-minute boat ride to its sister property Newton Cove, a floating resort just off the Esperanza Inlet. At first glance, the surroundings seem a bit non-descript, but when I entered my room and the various common areas, I felt immediately comfortable, like being wrapped in a Winslow Homer painting. Everything was impeccably clean and well organized. Enjoying听a cocktail around the fire pit in the evening, while watching the sun disappear behind the mountains and hearing the shoreline come alive with life, was a great way to cap the day.

Fishing Along Salmon Highway

I came all this way to fish, and it was finally the day. Rolling out in one of the resort鈥檚 fishing boats, we traveled where the fish had been biting recently, a stretch of unprotected water where the waves kept bouncing the front of the moving boat like an angry trampoline. I rarely ever get seasick when fishing, but by the time we reached our destination and began trolling, I was vomiting off the side of the 32-foot boat. But that wasn鈥檛 going to stop me from catching fish.

Soon I watched the fishing rod directly in front of me violently jerk up and down, signaling a fish had taken the bait, inadvertently setting the hook in its mouth. With wobbly legs, I stood up, grabbed the rod, and started reeling. The fish had other ideas though. As I took a quick rest, I watched as the line zipped off the reel, as the wily fish dove deeper into the ocean, trying to escape. For the next few minutes, I鈥檇 fight for a bit, then it would fight, and back and forth until the salmon had exhausted itself. I finally lifted my defeated adversary into the boat, and after a moment of compassionate unpleasantness, placed it in a cooler with the rest of the day鈥檚 fish.

Rob Annis Fishing
(Photo: Robert Annis)

When fishing in British Columbia, you need to be cognizant of the province鈥檚 regulations. Chinook and coho salmon must be hatchery-raised and larger than 45 cm (17.7 inches) and 30cm (11.8 inches), respectively, to keep. You can keep a maximum of two per species per day. That meant that most of the fish we caught needed to return to the ocean. I reeled in at least a dozen while keeping three, while my buddy caught just as many and kept one massive chinook that had me green with envy (or maybe that was just the seasickness). Upon returning to Newton Cove, we compared our catches with the other boat that docked around the same time, happily sharing fish stories from our day on the water.

The resort staff will clean, filet, and freeze your catch, boxing it for your return trip home. The next time I鈥檇 see my coho would be on a plate, drenched in butter and lemon, atop a bed of asparagus, while the rockfish would be diced, seasoned with Tajin, and served on tortillas. I couldn鈥檛 help but smile, again.

Rob Annis
(Photo: Robert Annis)

国产吃瓜黑料 Intel

If you鈥檙e new to saltwater fishing, Nootka Marine 国产吃瓜黑料s offers an which pairs guests up with experienced guides who will not only get you 听some fish, but also teach you about marine safety, how saltwater tides affect fishing, where to fish, and more. Upon graduation, there鈥檚 no cap-and-gown ceremony, but you will receive a discount on boat rentals during subsequent visits.

While fishing is the main attraction for both resorts, there are plenty of other options for fun. Folks driving to Moutcha Bay traverse the so-called Tree to Sea Drive from Gold River. The fairly rough gravel road is just over 36 miles, with Moutcha Bay around the middle, the Tahsis village at the terminus, and opportunities for adventure scattered throughout. I crossed at least a half dozen creek and river access points that made me kick myself for not bringing my fly rod and waders.

About 10 miles along the road, you鈥檒l find a trail leading to Upana Caves, where you can do a self-guided tour through the caverns, leading to both a waterfall and an underground river. Given my rather crippling claustrophobia, I chose to ignore that sign, but luckily there are three other above-ground waterfalls along the route that you can hike to and capture听some beautiful selfies in front of the flowing water.

Malaspina Lake is a great place to swim, fish for stocked rainbow trout, or watch wildlife like bald eagles, black bears, and the occasional cougar. Leiner River Recreation Site offers some fun hikes, while the Boulder Patch Trail leads to a popular rock-climbing spot along the river.

Wildlife watching is a must at the floating Newton Cove Resort.听 Start your mornings at the beach, looking for brown bears foraging for clams, sea lions, and various aquatic wildlife. Most boat rides also include a wildlife watching element, where you can see bears, whales, and sea otters among others.

Kayak and stand-up paddleboards are available to rent at both locations. Nothing beats a quiet, solitary paddle through gorgeous environments to get you centered and ready to start your day.

Room Intel

Moutcha Bay鈥檚 cedar yurts are gorgeous and modern, featuring a bedroom with an听attached bathroom which is, in turn, also attached to the living room and kitchen area. A second bedroom is located in an upstairs loft.听 Massive windows look over the bay, but if you鈥檇 rather breathe in the sea air, you can relax on a lounger on the deck, which also boasts a grill and outside dining area.

For folks on more of a budget, Moutcha Bay offers a small campground with several waterfront sites as well.. The 28 RV-friendly sites have both water and power hookups and are located a short walk away from washhouses with flush toilets and hot showers

The rooms at Newton Cove are a bit more basic than Moutcha Bay鈥檚 yurts, but still very clean and comfortable. The scenery surrounding the resort makes it nearly impossible to not be outside enjoying it.

Newton Cove Resort is a floating wilderness resort tailored to anglers.
Newton Cove Resort is a floating wilderness resort tailored to anglers.

Eat and Drink

Being a floating resort makes food deliveries more difficult, so Newton Cove鈥檚 breakfast menus are fairly limited鈥攐melets, breakfast sandwiches, and the like. While dinners are typically pre-prepared by the chef and customized based on allergies and dietary restrictions. During my visit, each three-course dinner was more amazing than the last. The perfectly prepared scallops were a personal favorite, as well as the steak and broccolini dish that served as my party鈥檚 send off. Meals and drinks are part of Newton Cove鈥檚 all-inclusive package, so you鈥檙e encouraged to get your money鈥檚 worth.

At Moutcha Bay, meals are a la carte, leaning heavily on upscale pub fare like ling cod tacos, tuna tataki, pizza, and poutine. (It鈥檚 still Canada, after all.) My friends and I paired our meals with a variety of Vancouver-area craft beers and custom cocktails.

If you ask the staff at either resort nicely, they may even cook your freshly caught fish that evening for your dinner.

When to Go

Moutcha Bay Resort is open from June to September, while you can stay at Newton Cove from July to September. July and August are generally the prime months for salmon fishing.

How to Get There

Fly into Comox (YQQ) on Vancouver Island, then drive approximately three hours to Moutcha Bay. The last 45 minutes to an hour will be on a lumpy dirt road, but the bumps and jostles will be worth the trip. Reaching Newton Cove requires a less than one-hour boat ride from Moutcha Bay. You can reach either resort by direct seaplane flight from Seattle, Vancouver, or Gold River.

Details and How to Book

Prices at Moutcha Bay start at around $949 CAD per person for a basic two-night stay, with a three-night stay with two days of self-guided fishing beginning at $1,849. Newton Cove rates begin at $5999 CAD for a three-night fully guided fishing trip in a private suite for two guests, three full days of guided fishing, fish processing services, and meals.

offers standard itineraries for individual lodges, but they can also do custom bookings that include combinations of听 both Moutcha Bay, Newton Cove, and a third lodge, Nootka Sound.

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Op-Ed: Yvon Chouinard Says Newsom鈥檚 Billion-Dollar Salmon Bet Is Doomed to Fail /culture/opinion/yvon-chouinard-gavin-newsom-salmon/ Thu, 21 Aug 2025 22:51:35 +0000 /?p=2713711 Op-Ed: Yvon Chouinard Says Newsom鈥檚 Billion-Dollar Salmon Bet Is Doomed to Fail

Hatcheries won鈥檛 save salmon. Free-flowing rivers might.

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Op-Ed: Yvon Chouinard Says Newsom鈥檚 Billion-Dollar Salmon Bet Is Doomed to Fail

In May, California Governor Gavin Newsom announced upgrades to and dams in an effort to increase salmon populations. But Newsom鈥檚 plans are misguided and misleading.

These schemes would waste our tax dollars on ineffective and never-ending boondoggles that fail to solve the destructive impacts of dams on our fisheries and watersheds. Hatcheries harm endangered California salmon without addressing a major cause of their decline: migration-blocking dams that degrade our treasured watersheds.

These hatcheries and their derelict relative, trap-and-truck, which are also promoted by Newsom, require carbon-intensive facilities, diesel-powered fish 鈥渕igration,鈥 and billions in tax dollars to keep stumbling along indefinitely. No amount of upgrades can retrofit an entirely misguided concept. Advertising them to the taxpayer as climate resiliency measures is disingenuous.

These backward directives will use your money to into programs that, contrary to what proponents say, will not lead to salmon recovery and will compromise climate commitments.

An adult King salmon swims upstream towards the holding pool before spawning at the Nimbus Fish Hatchery in Sacramento, California
An adult King salmon swims upstream towards the holding pool before spawning at the Nimbus Fish Hatchery in Sacramento, California (Photo: NurPhoto/Getty)

Just ask hatchery and trap-and-truck promoters if these programs will lead to wild fish 鈥渞ecovery.鈥 They can鈥檛, because by definition, hatcheries and trucking fish do the opposite. They require endless human intervention. This model will never achieve 鈥渨ild, self-sustaining鈥 salmon populations, as required by the Endangered Species Act, to achieve recovery and delisting.

When hatchery salmon are released into our waters, they suffocate their wild counterparts with sheer numbers, weaken the gene pool, spread disease, and increase predation. , based on 50 years of data and published in the journal Fisheries, found that 83 percent of salmon hatcheries caused adverse effects on local wild populations. , published in the Environmental Biology of Fishes, found that wild juvenile Chinook salmon have a survival rate of between听 7 and 31 percent. Hatchery salmon came in at 1.3 percent. An analysis from the Columbia River found the cost to citizens to harvest a single hatchery Chinook salmon was $68,031. Wild salmon do it for free.

California’s own Steelhead Restoration and Management Plan makes a timely point: “There is a risk that operation of an artificial production facility [hatchery] to rebuild a depleted population … can mask the real problems and delay implementation of long-term solutions.” Artificial truck migrations do the same.

What rings just as true today: recovered wild fish don鈥檛 ride in trucks鈥攁nd they aren鈥檛 born in plastic mixing bowls at hatcheries either.

There is a proven way to solve the problem, and Newsom should know it: restore unassisted fish migration to natural habitats they鈥檝e been blocked from by removing dams in favor of more climate-resilient water and energy solutions.

We can see the benefits of this action happening now in Northern California and Southern Oregon. On the , thousands of Chinook salmon regained access to 400 miles of habitat after four dams were removed. that plagued the former reservoirs have been replaced with a cleaner, free-flowing river.

Removing dams will also help us transition to smarter water storage solutions. is showing us a better way to capture stormwater on expanded floodplains that can still be farmed, provide wildlife habitat, safeguard communities, and recharge our depleted groundwater aquifers.

Some say removing dams is crazy. What’s actually crazy is our water agency鈥檚 lack of foresight to count on inefficient dams in a changed climate: According to in the U.S., their reservoirs lost the equivalent of 93 percent of the annual U.S. public water supply through evaporation. California鈥檚 own our depleted groundwater basin storage capacity is over 17 times greater than all the major reservoirs in California combined. Storing water underground eliminates evaporation waste and persistent reservoir storage loss to sedimentation.

Some state leaders are falsely touting hydropower as 鈥渃lean energy鈥 when the dams and their methane-emitting reservoirs are huge climate culprits. Dam removal eliminates this ignored emission source while restoring massive carbon sinks as these reservoir areas regrow into productive forests, grasslands, and forgotten farmlands. Legendary investor Warren Buffett owned those removed Klamath dams. PG&E is wisely throwing in the towel on its . Are these business leaders crazy to get rid of these dam liabilities? Or are California leaders crazy to double down with our tax dollars on degrading dams and welfare salmon smokescreens?

Fortunately, Newsom did come around to supporting the recent privately owned dam removal efforts. But what about the many California dams that we, the public, own? Why should we shoulder the financial burden to upkeep deadbeat dams when and more reliable solutions exist? Does Newsom want his legacy to be generations of Californians financing a future of decaying dams, receding reservoirs, Mack truck migrations, and hatchery hubris? With ambitions past the Governorship, this is an opportunity for Newsom to show his leadership on a key national issue. We need a leader to move us toward truly climate-resilient and safe water supplies, low-carbon energy alternatives, self-sustaining wild fisheries, and reduced tax burden for generations to come.

Yvon Chouinard is the founder of California-based outdoor apparel company Patagonia.

Matt Stoecker is a California farmer and fisheries ecologist.

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Exploring Tennessee’s Top Lakes /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/exploring-tennessees-top-lakes/ Wed, 13 Aug 2025 13:48:10 +0000 /?p=2710985 Exploring Tennessee's Top Lakes

The state鈥檚 most famed fishing legend partners with its most beloved lakes to protect and improve premier destinations for angling adventures

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Exploring Tennessee's Top Lakes

Anyone who knows Tennessee knows about its abundance of freshwater. Anglers in particular can thank the varied geography and Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) history of hydroelectric development for its verdant waterways and winding miles of shoreline both natural and manmade. The Volunteer State also has another treasured resource when it comes to fishing: Bill Dance. Known as 鈥渢he world鈥檚 most-loved angler,鈥 the pro bass fishing legend and longtime TV personality recently partnered with the state to continue introducing generations of outdoor adventurers to the joy of fishing.

The Bill Dance Signature Lakes program now showcases 14 world-class lakes across Tennessee, each selected and enhanced to provide top-tier fishing and recreation opportunities. The initiative combines habitat improvement, intensive fisheries management, stocking, access upgrades, and ongoing conservation to make Tennessee a leading destination for freshwater fishing across all skill levels. To date, the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency has already stocked over 13.1 million fish into the 14 Bill Dance Signature Lakes!

 

And though Dance is a true believer in these recreational opportunities, having long represented the state in his signature University of Tennessee ball cap, he is eager to explain exactly why these lakes (often adjacent to amenity-packed state parks) are so beloved. We recently sat down with Dance for a deeper look at Tennessee鈥檚 top lakes for premier fishing and summer trip planning.

国产吃瓜黑料: What inspired you to partner with Tennessee on this initiative?

Bill Dance: Tennessee is family to me. It鈥檚 home鈥攎y people, my places. And we all go above and beyond for what we love. I am a native, my family are all Tennesseans. There鈥檚 a love and loyalty here, as I suspect it is with other regions, but it is hard for me to imagine it anywhere else, because all I know for sure is Tennessee. Also, we have been a partner with Tennessee Tourism for nearly 20 years.

What specifically about Tennessee separates it from other states?听

Can there be a better place for fish-related projects than the Volunteer State? We have miles of water, from creeks, to rivers, to state park lakes, to TVA reservoirs. We literally have more species of fish than any other state (350 or so). Think about that for a minute: can there be a better place for a fisherman to be, than Tennessee?

And I do wear this T cap. True, I started wearing it because I thought it was lucky. But it鈥檚 funny, over time I wear it proudly for the love for this wonderful place I call home.

Dance, enjoying a catch on Reelfoot Lake in the state’s northwest corner. (Photo: Tennessee Tourism )

Which lake holds your most memorable fishing experience?

Hands down, it鈥檚 Pickwick Lake. I鈥檝e always listed this lake as my home waters. Pickwick is where I learned (through the inspiration of veteran angler Glen Andrews) to fish deep, open water鈥攁nd I mean 25-35 feet. I knew to be successful at tournament angling on the big stage, I鈥檇 have to learn to do this. The pursuit of this knowledge at my training ground of Pickwick led to tournament success, which led to TV shows, and so many more of my other accomplishments in the world of fishing.

The bottom line? Pickwick is simply a great place to fish, and that鈥檚 on the lake or in the tailrace below its dam. There鈥檚 something to fish for year-round. One can鈥檛 go wrong visiting Pickwick.

How has this initiative helped shape the future of fishing in Tennessee?

Few are the people that do not enjoy fishing. And honestly, I believe those that don鈥檛 enjoy it, have never been. The initiative is all about the opportunities fishing offers. True, it provides and enhances great places to go fishing. If you go to these lakes, you’ll catch fish and lots of them. But the complementing layers to the initiative are many; it will likewise boost economies in the area, and provide added recreational opportunities as well. People need added recreation in a hurried world. Together time is a big deal for family and friends. And few things can do this like the sport of fishing. I can only imagine the memories this initiative will spawn and the legacy it will have.

Family fishing in Natchez Trace State Park, home of Browns Creek Lake, about halfway between Memphis and Nashville. (Photo: Tennessee Tourism)

What advice do you have for first-time anglers visiting these lakes?

To begin, look for the specific areas that have marinas with guides. A guided trip is worth the money because novice anglers can learn so much in a very short amount of time. Another route could be to research the area via the Internet. With a little time on your laptop or phone, you鈥檇 be amazed what you can know about a new body of water before you ever make that first cast. Of course, actually calling someone (yes, I鈥檓 old school), isn鈥檛 a bad idea, either. A knowledgeable contact is a winning strategy, whether it鈥檚 sound advice at nearby chambers of commerce, visitor centers, or any other local contacts. They鈥檙e out there if you dig.

Take advantage of the access and lodging amenities at Douglas Lake in Dandridge, Tennessee. (Photo: Tennessee Tourism)

And once you鈥檙e at the lake?

Pick the brains of locals! Though all fishermen tell tales, my experience shows rare are the anglers who are not willing to help other newcomers to public waters catch fish鈥specially families. This is why the phrase, ‘What are they biting?’ is so woven into the fabric of fishing. We help each other.

What makes Tennessee stand out as a fishing destination in comparison to other states?

Variety. We have more fish species than any other state. It obviously comes from our geographic locale as well as our diversity of waters. On one end, Tennessee has the Mississippi River, one of the largest in the world, and Reelfoot Lake, the famed Quake Lake [created by early 1800s earthquakes]. As you move eastward, you find diverse oxbows, rivers and creeks, many -managed lakes, huge TVA Reservoirs, and mountain streams, in the east. An angler only has to ask, 鈥榃hat do I want in the way of freshwater fishing,鈥 and Tennessee has it.

Sunset over Kentucky Lake at Paris Landing State Park in Buchanan, Tennessee. (Photo: Tennessee Tourism)

Beyond fishing, what activities make these lakes a regional draw for weekend adventures?

Again, Tennessee offers diversity in fishing opportunities, with so many geographical changes. Likewise, each area surrounding the lakes has its own regional charm. This includes the people, the dining, the lodging, the history, and cultural experience. Opportunities abound with a surprising number of added activities available if you research the areas you plan to visit. For example, maybe there鈥檚 a state park golf course you want to try, or a local diner that鈥檚 especially unique to the area. Off the water, ramble around and see exactly why so many of us love Tennessee.

 

What other off-water developments or lakeside curiosities would you consider must-do?听

There鈥檚 so many. Picking just a few would do the others an injustice. It鈥檚 hard to go wrong with the in affordability, lodging, food, etc. Our parks always seem to be a win-win. But don鈥檛 let me sway you. Do your research. Go and ramble about. That鈥檚 part of the fun: exploring. And sometimes fishing for the side-trips, especially on family outings, can be the most fun part of your angling adventure as well.


Bill Dance Signature Lakes is a collaborative effort between Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, Tennessee State Parks and Tennessee Department of Tourist Development to improve and enhance Tennessee Lakes, increase visitation and honor Dance鈥檚 legacy. Tennesseans will benefit from increased stocking, habitat and fisheries management, as well as improved access for fishing and boating at 14 designated lakes across the state. This multi-agency partnership has committed more than $25.4 million to improvements both above and below the water at lakes bearing Tennessee icon Bill Dance鈥檚 stamp of approval. For more information, visit 听

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The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest /adventure-travel/national-parks/best-road-trips-southwest/ Wed, 19 Feb 2025 10:00:05 +0000 /?p=2695788 The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest

From Arizona's canyons to Utah's buttes and beyond, our national parks columnist shares the most adventurous Southwest road-trip itineraries

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The 7 Best Road Trips in the Southwest

The Southwest always seems to me like a bit of a fever dream. The country鈥檚 deepest canyons, wildest buttes, and broadest deserts spread here from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific Ocean, offering a landscape so unlike any other in the country, you might think you鈥檝e left earth altogether. It is a hot, inhospitable territory that demands respect, but it is also outrageously beautiful, with rock outcroppings that seem painted in shades of red and white, blooming cacti, and shifting dunes that undulate like waves onto the horizon.

The easiest and most efficient way to explore the Southwest is by car, bouncing from one breathtaking adventure to the next, so I鈥檝e created seven different road-trip itineraries, one in each state of this stunning slice of our nation. I鈥檝e driven the majority of these routes, while the remaining few are on my list of dream adventures. And each of these has something for everyone鈥攂eaches, sand dunes, cliffs, rivers, hikes, bike rides, fishing holes, and more.

Set your playlist, and pack the sunscreen. Here are the seven best road trips in the Southwest.

Destinations Newsletter

Want more of 国产吃瓜黑料鈥檚 Travel stories?

1. Nevada

Las Vegas to the Valley of Fire

馃搷 Distance: 175 Miles
馃殫 Duration: 3 days

man rides his bike in the desert around Rock Rock Conservation Area, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Desert mountain biking in the vast recreational spaces found amazingly close to Las Vegas (Photo: Courtesy Las Vegas Cyclery/Escape 国产吃瓜黑料s)

The obvious, and most common, road trip from Vegas would be to beeline straight for the Grand Canyon, but you do not want to overlook the suite of public lands that rings Sin City. The fun begins just 20 miles west of downtown Las Vegas at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, a 195,000-acre park that is internationally known for its multi-pitch rock climbing, though my epic adventures here have been of other types.

My favorite way to explore Red Rock is by road bike, pedaling the 13-mile Scenic Drive through the heart of the park. The road has one-way traffic and a big shoulder, so there鈥檚 plenty of room, and you鈥檒l have both long-range and up-close views of the surrounding red sandstone cliffs and canyons. has bike rentals (from $40 a day). If you show up in the summer, do your adventures early in the morning before the heat gets unbearable.

Next skirt around the south side of Las Vegas for 70 miles to Lake Mead National Recreation Area, home to the massive Hoover Dam. I like Lake Mohave, a shallow, narrow reservoir below Hoover that follows the original path of the Colorado River through a series of canyons. If you鈥檙e looking for a full-day (or multi-day) adventure, paddle a piece of the 30-mile Black Canyon National Water Trail, which begins at the base of the dam and ends in Arizona, passing beaches, hot springs, and side canyons.

woman canoes in calm water in the Black Canyon, Nevada
Joyce Kehoe of Boulder City, Nevada, paddles in the Black Canyon below Hoover Dam on the Colorado River. (Photo: Courtesy Desert 国产吃瓜黑料s)

Only boaters with commercial licenses can launch below the dam, so hook up with , which offers DIY rentals and shuttles or guided trips throughout the water trail. Or for a quicker adventure, drive directly to Willow Beach, and paddle two miles upstream to Emerald Cave, a narrow side canyon with clear, shallow water below 75-foot sandstone walls (tours from $139 per person; rentals from $80 per boat).

Emerald Cave, near Las Vegas
A paddler explores the green waters of the Emerald Cave, in the Black Canyon,听roughly 60 miles from Las Vegas and only accessible via boat. (Photo: Courtesy Desert 国产吃瓜黑料s)

has tent sites and RV sites in the hills above the sandy beach from $45 a night.

Driving north, you can stop at Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada鈥檚 largest state park at 46,000 acres, where red and pink sandstone cliffs and canyons fill the valley, the walls popping out of the tan, scrubby dirt. Catch the area at sunset and you could think the whole valley is on fire. The park is full of short, scenic trails for hikers. The 3.3-mile loop takes in iconic features, from a narrow slot canyon to the sinuous Fire Wave, where the striped sandstone seems to flow like water.

Snag a campsite at one of the two developed campgrounds from $10.

2. Utah

Bryce Canyon National Park to Capitol Reef National Park

馃搷 Distance: 125 miles
馃殫 Duration: 3 days

hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Bryce Canyon National Park has the world’s most abundant collection of the slender desert spires known as hoodoos. You can see them while walking the Rim Trail past the famous overlooks of Inspiration Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point, or descend below the rim and hike among them. (Photo: Courtesy )

It鈥檚 tempting to try to hit all of Utah鈥檚 national parks in a single trip, but you鈥檇 have to cover more than 1,000 miles and spend more time in your vehicle than on the trails. Instead, focus on this slice of Utah by driving the 122-mile Scenic Byway 12, which connects Bryce Canyon National Park with Capitol Reef National Park, hitting Grand Escalante National Monument in the middle. I drove this route last fall and was in constant awe of its beauty and diversity, as we cruised through sandstone tunnels at one point, then climbed to an aspen forest at another.

Pick up Highway 12 in the small town of Panguitch, about 50 miles east from Interstate 12, and keep driving east to Bryce Canyon National Park. Bryce, known for its hoodoos (sandstone spires that rise from the valley floor) is one of the country鈥檚 smallest national parks at just 35,835 acres, which means you can see a lot in a short amount of time. Combine Queen鈥檚 Garden Trail with Navajo Loop Trail for a that begins on the rim of the canyon, then drops into the belly, passing hoodoos, arches, and tall cliffs.

Burr Trail, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
This view from the historic Burr Trail, a 66-mile scenic back road that winds through sections of Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, shows the Lower Gulch approaching Longs Canyon. The road also offers views of the Henry Mountains and the famous geological feature known as the Waterpocket Fold. (Photo: Devaki Murch)

Heading north, Highway 12 moves through the heart of the massive Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a 1.9-million-acre park with expanses of slick rock and sandstone canyons stretching all the way to the horizon. I was lucky enough to spend a couple of days in the monument, scrambling down slot canyons and bushwhacking through the heart of a broad canyon before reaching the lush Escalante River. It鈥檚 beautiful but unforgiving terrain that delivers plenty of solitude. Drive the unimproved dirt Hole-in-the-Rock Road (high-clearance two-wheel drive vehicles are usually OK) 33 miles south to the Dry Fork Slots to hike a through Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons, where the passage narrows to about a foot wide at certain points, and scrambling is mandatory. Too adventurous? Try hiking to , a 6.5-mile loop through a smooth canyon that ends at a 124-foot waterfall.

There鈥檚 plenty of camping and lodging around the town of Escalante. , inside the monument, offers seven primitive sites ($10 a night) with no frills. Or go upscale and snag a cabin or Airstream at , a camping-and-cabin resort with a drive-in movie theater, pool, and food truck (cabins from $175 a night).

cabins, movie screen, Airstreams, and lodge at Ofland Escalante, a stop on one of the best road trips in the southwest
Aerial view of Ofland Escalante, just near the town of the same name, in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, southern Utah (Photo: Courtesy The Nomadic People)

Driving 65 miles further north on Highway 12, you鈥檒l climb Boulder Mountain through Dixie National Forest before hitting the town of Torrey and Capitol Reef National Park. Here, you鈥檒l find historic fruit orchards, sandstone domes, and more canyons than you could ever hope to explore. Start your journey with , a 3.4-mile out-and-back that crosses broad sections of slickrock before ending at a 125-foot-wide natural arch. Or hook up with and go canyoneering, dropping into the belly of narrow canyons deep inside the park ($300 for the first person).

For a longer adventure, check out our sister publication’s “.”

3. Colorado

Colorado National Monument to Rocky Mountain National Park

馃搷 Distance: 310 miles
馃殫 Duration: 3-5 days

Grand Lake, Colorado
Grand Lake is the western gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, with its own bounty of recreational opportunities. (Photo: Courtesy Grand Lake Chamber)

Colorado offers a ton of incredible scenery, and this particular road trip takes you from the desert canyons of Colorado National Monument to the high alpine terrain of Rocky Mountain National Park. The diversity of adventure is off the charts, too, with opportunities for sandstone-heavy hikes, big mountain-bike descents, and whitewater rafting.

Start near the western border of the state, at Colorado National Monument, a 20,000-acre park with sheer cliffs and vertigo-inducing sandstone towers. Just driving the 23-mile Rim Rock Drive is worth the price of admission, with near-constant views of the canyon below, including of the massive Independence Monument, a 450-foot tall sandstone pillar.

Independence Monument
Independence Monument was climbed by a trail builder and blacksmith named John Otto in 1911. Otto hammered metal bars into the rock and even carved footholds in places. He also lobbied fervently for protection for the wild lands of the area, and was key in the establishment of Colorado National Monument that year. (Photo: Graham Averill)

But you鈥檒l definitely want to get out of your car and explore this monument by foot. The Devil鈥檚 Kitchen is an easy, 1.2-mile out-and-back that gives you the chance to scramble over boulders and explore narrow sandstone channels. Get up close to Independence Monument on the , a 5.2-mile point-to-point that meanders past some of the monument鈥檚 most recognizable rock formations, including the set of rounded pillars dubbed the Coke Ovens and a tower known as the Kissing Couple, because it looks like two people entwined.

rider on the Palisade Plunge stopping for a mountain bike lap along one of the best road trips in the southwest
A rider feels the open air on the 32-mile Palisade Plunge, starting off the Grand Mesa at nearly 11,000 feet and descending about 6,000 feet into the town of Palisade, Colorado. The much-anticipated trail, over two years in the making, opened in summer 2021. (Photo: Graham Averill)

After exploring the monument, head east for 25 miles to the town of Palisade, where you can tackle a piece of the , a 32-mile mostly downhill piece of singletrack that drops 6,000 feet off the rim of the Grand Mesa into the edge of downtown. The trail has multiple access points, so you don鈥檛 have to bite off the entire distance. Palisade Cycles has shuttles and rentals starting in March (check then for prices).

Head 75 miles northeast to Glenwood Springs to spend the night at , which has van-life sites on the Colorado River (from $112 a night) as well as glamping tents and cabins (from $179 a night). You can book a half-day on the Colorado, which includes the 1.5-mile-long class III Shoshone Rapids (from $75 per person), or just soak in one of the 17 different pools at , where each tub is tailored to a different temperature (from $44 per person).

When you鈥檙e refreshed, or worn out, drive northeast for 125 miles through to Rocky Mountain National Park, one of the most popular national parks in the country (4.1 million visitors in 2023). Don鈥檛 worry, most of those visitors enter through the Estes Park side, while you鈥檒l access the park on the much-less crowded Grand Lake entrance. I remember, on a trip with my kids, seeing a moose in the valley near Grand Lake and marveling that we were the only people on the trail at the time.

Head to the for a choose-your-own-adventure sort of hike. For a short jaunt that packs a big punch, hike the three-mile out-and-back Green Mountain Trail up to Big Meadow, which in the summer is full of wildflowers and hosts the occasional moose. Or if you really want to get after it, combine the Green Mountain Trail, Tonahutu Creek Trail, and Hayach Lakes Trail for a 17-mile out-and-back that culminates at Hayach Lake, a natural pool that sits at 11,000 feet in elevation in the shadow of the craggy Nakai Peak. Turn it into an overnight if you like, choosing among multiple backcountry campsites along the way ($36 fee for a ).

For a longer adventure, check out our sister publication’s “.”

4. Texas

San Antonio to the Gulf

馃搷 Distance: 250 miles
馃殫 Duration: 3-5 days

Padre Island National Seashore
Padre Island National Seashore, looking from the north to the south (Photo: scgerding/Getty)

Texas is big, so you need to narrow your focus for a road trip here, because getting from point A to point B can sometimes take you all day. This particular route starts with some urban exploration in San Antonio and ends on one of the longest undeveloped beaches in the country. In between are quiet swamps, beach campsites, and plenty of paddle trails.

The San Antonio Riverwalk in San Antonio, Texas
The San Antonio River Walk in San Antonio, Texas, is an inspiration for waterfront pathways in many other cities. Some sections are lively, with waterside tables and umbrellas, and others are quieter amid greenery. (Photo: Robert D. Barnes/Getty)

San Antonio might not seem like the perfect place to start an adventure trip, but the city鈥檚 15-mile River Walk, expanded in the late 1990s, has served as an inspiration for other similar projects ever since and it鈥檚 still one of the coolest urban bike rides you can do. Five miles of the path cruise through downtown, but the best biking is just south of town in the , an eight-mile linear park that connects historic missions, grasslands, and wildflower meadows, all protected as the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park.

San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, Texas
The ancient Mission Espada Bell Tower stands tall behind Pride of Barbados flowers at San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, Texas. (Photo: Courtesy Andrew Shirey/NPS)

After spinning around San Antonio, drive east towards the Gulf of Mexico, making a pitstop at Palmetto State Park鈥攁 small stretch just 25 miles east of San Antonio, that鈥檚 home to the sort of tropical jungle you鈥檙e more likely to find in Florida鈥攃omplete with dwarf palmettos blanketing the forest floor. If you bring your own boat or paddleboard, you can slide along the languid San Marcos River, or explore Palmetto鈥檚 small Oxbow Lake. Hiking trails lead through swampy marshes with light-green water filling the forest floor. If you鈥檙e not in a hurry, pitch a tent in the park鈥檚 ($12 a night) before heading to the beach.

Head south on Highway 183 to Mustang Island State Park, which separates Corpus Christi Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. The park protects five miles of Gulf-facing coastline, and has 50 drive-up where you can pitch a tent on the beach ($13 a night, first-come, first-served).

The beach is the obvious draw here. The Gulf is typically calm and warm, although some people are known to surf during hurricane swells. But the park also has more than 20 miles of marked paddling trails that traverse the western edge of the island, weave through islands in Corpus Christi Bay, and offer shallow water for fishing for redfish and speckled trout. runs daily guided trips (from $90 for two people) and rentals (from $50).

turtle heads out to sea at Padres Island National Seashore
At Padre Island National Seashore, a type of sea turtle known as Kemp’s Ridley returns from nesting to the water. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

If you need more beach (and who doesn鈥檛?) scoot 15 miles down the coast to Padre Island National Seashore. If you have a 4WD vehicle, you can down-island for up to 60 miles until you leave the crowds behind. The national seashore is a hot spot for birding, with 380 different species reported, thanks to the island鈥檚 location on a major migration route. Look for the endangered piping plover or the super colorful painted bunting.

5. New Mexico

Taos to the Bisti Badlands

馃搷 Distance: 275 miles
馃殫 Duration: 3-5 days

Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area
Hoodoo formations stand watch over De-Na-Zin Badlands, in the Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area, New Mexico (Photo: Brad McGinley Photography/Getty)

I haven鈥檛 spent enough time in New Mexico. Or seen enough of it. The last time I was there, on a fly-fishing trip, I couldn鈥檛 bring myself to leave the Taos area. So many fish, so many green chili dishes. But I regret my solitary focus, because the state has much to offer. This particular road trip delivers a variety of adventure and landscapes that I鈥檓 convinced only New Mexico has.

The trip begins with a bang by rafting a tumultuous section of the Rio Grande, just 30 miles southwest of Taos. Different run options offer a variety of adventure, but the classic is a 17-mile portion through the Rio Grande Gorge, also dubbed the Taos Box because it is walled by black basalt cliffs. The trip brings a full day of whitewater action, with a six-mile section of non-stop class II and III rapids known as The Racecourse. If the weather is warm enough, you can swim in a few pools along the way, and good guides will point out petroglyphs on the rock walls. Book your trip with and you鈥檒l get hot fajitas for a riverside lunch (from $110 per person).

Ojo Caliente resort, near Taos
Ojo Caliente, near Taos, is a hot-springs resort with pools of various sizes and temperatures nestled among cliffs and trees.听(Photo: Courtesy Ojo Spa Resorts)

Spend the night at the wellness retreat of Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa, where the natural springs feature arsenic, Lithia, soda, and iron, all minerals thought to have healing properties (from $239 a night).

Keep heading southwest to , a super volcano that erupted 1.2 million years ago, creating a 14-mile-wide circular depression that has evolved into a lush basin full of creeks and meadows. Think of Valles Caldera as a mini Yellowstone, complete with hot springs, wildlife-viewing opportunities, and broad grasslands. A large elk population calls the caldera home (look for them in the meadows during early morning and evening), and keep an eye out as well for prairie dogs and coyotes. The Valle Grande Exploration Trail is a short, .8-mile walk through a prairie to a manmade pond that served as a watering hole when the area was a private cattle ranch. The South Mountain Trail is a bit more involved, taking you four miles up a narrow valley and to the top of South Mountain, where you鈥檒l enjoy a view of the entire basin.

Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico, a stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
The Frey Trail looks down upon the site of an ancient Tyuonyi village, at Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. The area was home to the Ancestral Puebloans. (Photo: Courtesy Sally King/NPS)

You鈥檒l only be 20 miles west of Bandelier National Monument, which protects 33,000 acres of canyons and mesa that were the Ancestral Puebloans鈥 home until 1550. They used blocks of soft volcanic rock to build homes at the bases of cliffs, carving additional rooms into the walls themselves. Hike the 1.4-mile Pueblo Loop Trail to see some of these archeological sites first hand. You鈥檒l even get to climb ladders into some of the rooms carved into the side of cliffs. Grab a campsite at the monument鈥檚 ($20 a night, reserve up to six months in advance).

It鈥檒l add some mileage, but you need to cap this road trip off with a walk on the moon, or at least, as close as most of us will ever come to walking on the moon. The , in northwestern New Mexico, are loaded with some of the strangest rock formations you will ever see, with cap stones and some massive cliffs actually in the shapes of manta rays, all rising from rolling taupe shale hills. The Bisti Badlands are part of the BLM鈥檚 60-square-mile Bisti/De-Na-Zen Wilderness Area, which has no formal trails or paved roads. The De-Na-Zin parking area, off county road 7500, will give you access to the dry Bisti Wash, which you can hike into the heart of the badlands to see all of the weirdness for yourself.

6. Arizona

Grand Canyon to Monument Valley

馃搷 Distance: 250
馃殫 Duration: 3-5 days

grand canyon vista along one of the best road trips in the southwest
Don’t miss the Grand Canyon on your southwest roadtrip. It’s so big, it’s one of the few visible landforms on earth from outer space. (Photo: Courtesy Ecoflight)

I spent most of my youth believing Arizona was a desert wasteland, but in recent years I鈥檝e had the chance to turn that around with some of the state鈥檚 wonderful signature adventures. Yes, much of Arizona is desert, but it is no wasteland. It鈥檚 a vibrant landscape full of life and adventure. I鈥檝e driven ATVs across the desert, biked lonely gravel roads near the border of Mexico, and ridden a mountain bike into a cactus on the outskirts of Scottsdale. In short, I love Arizona, and as much fun as I鈥檝e had in that state, I still have so much to discover. The following road trip meanders through Northern Arizona, beginning in Grand Canyon and connecting a few waypoints that I still need to tick off my bucket list.

You could argue that all adventure trips in Arizona need to feature Grand Canyon National Park, and I wouldn鈥檛 disagree, so we鈥檙e hitting that 6,000-foot-deep ditch first. Also, Grand Canyon Village is just 1.5 hours from Flagstaff, so it鈥檚 a logical first stop. Is the Grand Canyon crowded? Yes. But the vast majority of visitors stick to a few scenic overlooks. The last time I was at the South Rim, I lost the crowds after hiking about a mile on the . But you鈥檙e going to do a lot of hiking on this road trip, so consider biking The Hermit Road, which hugs the south rim of the canyon for seven miles from the village, offering copious views along the way. The best part? It鈥檚 closed to private vehicles from March through November. rents cruisers (from $30).

Grand Canyon viewpoint
Everyone must see the Grand Canyon at least once in their lives. It’s truly breathtaking. (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North Parks and Resorts)

Try to get a room at El Tovar, an iconic national park lodge if there ever was one (from $391 starting in March). Or snag a coveted site at , which is first-come, first- served.

Heading north for 130 miles, you鈥檒l hit the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, a 280,000-acre geological wonder of buttes, canyons, and cliffs that tends to get overshadowed by its grand neighbor. Still, you may have seen photos of the swirling pink and tan sandstone layers of rock in the Coyote Buttes known as The Wave. It鈥檚 a stunning scenic reward that requires a tough hike through the desert. Accessing the Coyote Buttes requires a ($6). Grab one four months in advance, or try your luck with the daily lottery.

river canyon at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, worth a stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
Hiking through passageways at Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, Arizona (Photo: Courtesy Bob Wick/BLM)

If you can鈥檛 score a permit, try hiking the 1.2-mile out-and-back through White Pocket. There are no marked or maintained trails in the monument, but cairns will guide you through more wavy sandstone features. Wherever you hike, look towards the sky for the endangered California Condor, which are hatched and released in the monument each year. And bring (or rent) a 4WD vehicle, as there are no paved roads inside the monument. Grab a site at the BLM鈥檚 , which views a cluster of sand-white buttes ($12 per site, first come/first serve).

Roughly 100 miles east, near the border of Utah, sits the 91,696-acre , a broad valley where 1,000-foot-tall sandstone towers rise abruptly from the earth. You can see some of the most iconic features, the Mitten Buttes and Merrick Butte, from the visitor center, but you鈥檒l want to hike the Wildcat Trail, a four-mile loop that wraps around the West and East Mitten Buttes. It鈥檚 the only self-guided trail open within the park, so to explore any more requires hiring a local Navajo guide with . A number of operators run auto tours of the 17-mile scenic loop road within the park, but consider booking a stargazing tour, also with Monument Valley Tribal Tours, that focuses on nighttime photography, framing the buttes within the context of the Milky Way and surrounding stars (from $95).

7. California

So Cal Coast to Mojave Desert

馃搷 Distance: 300 miles
馃殫 Duration: 4-5 days

young girls learning to surf manage a high five
High fives and a whole lot of fun at a kids’ surf camp off San Onofre State Beach, Southern California (Photo: Courtesy Endless Summer)

Because this is a collection of road trips through the Southwest, I鈥檓 focusing on Southern California, as the terrain in the area is more complementary to the Southwest vibe than, say, that of California鈥檚 Redwood National Park or Yosemite Valley.

This trip starts on the coast and ends with the dunes in the Mojave Desert, so there鈥檚 plenty of sand along the way, as well as big rocks, desert camping, and hiking. Keep the L.A. fires in mind when you鈥檙e traveling to Southern California. Hopefully the worst of that fire will be in the rearview by the time you make this trip, and while this route steers clear of the burn areas, the disaster has impacted residents throughout the region. Be considerate.

California鈥檚 coast is loaded with state parks, but San Onofre State Beach has a rugged character that鈥檚 hard to match, with cliffs rising directly from the beach and whales and dolphins often spotted in the water. If you fancy yourself a worthy surfer, you can paddle into the lineup at the world-famous Trestles break on the north end of the park, which has been ground zero for Southern California鈥檚 surfing culture since the 1940s. The park offers beginner breaks, too. In fact, San Onofre has one of the more gentle waves in Southern California. offers beginner lessons at the San Onofre Bluffs Beach, which is flanked by 100-foot cliffs (from $100 per person).

adult surf class at San Onofre Bluffs Beach, a worthy stop along one of the best road trips in the southwest
San Onofre State Beach in Southern California may have the fearsome Trestles break, but it also has gentle waves suitable for beginners. Here, participants gather for an adult surf camp at the San Onofre Bluffs Beach. (Photo: Courtesy Endless Summer)

Try to score a site at the (reserve up to six months in advance, starting at $45 a night) or San Mateo Camp, a couple of miles inland.

Leave the beach and head east, making a pit stop at the sleeper destination Anza-Borrego Desert State Wilderness, an often overlooked member of California鈥檚 crowded public-lands portfolio. The park is packed with palm oases, slot canyons, and after a wet winter, fields of wildflowers. Stretch your legs on the , a three-mile out and back that begins near the park鈥檚 visitor center and climbs up a canyon, ending at an overlook of a palm oasis (currently recovering from a previous wildfire) with a seasonal waterfall.

Arch Rock, Joshua Tree
A moderate, two-mile loop takes you to the breathtaking sight of Arch Rock. You can also fork detour out to take in Heart Rock along the way. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Continuing east for 60 miles, and you鈥檒l wrap around the Salton Sea to hit Joshua Tree National Park鈥檚 southern entrance (if you鈥檙e tired or showing up late, look for free campsites on BLM land between I-10 and the park鈥檚 entrance). Spring is a great time to visit the park, as the temperatures are manageable, and the local cacti and Joshua Trees for which the park is named could still be sprouting flowers. Lace up your hiking boots and hit the trails. The easy 1.4-mile is a no-brainer loop that delivers you to a natural arch, with plenty of opportunity to scramble on sandstone boulders along the way. For a bird鈥檚-eye view of the park, climb the 5,456-foot Ryan Mountain via its and for a vista stretching clear to the 11,000-foot San Gorgonio Mountain. I tried running to the top of Ryan Mountain the last time I was in the park, but the 1,000-foot elevation gain got the better of me.

Aside from the BLM land near the south entrance, the park has six with sites you can reserve up to six months in advance. They鈥檙e all good.

Still want more desert? Great, because you鈥檙e heading 70 miles north of Joshua Tree into the heart of the Mojave National Preserve, 1.6 million acres of dunes, cliffs, and cactus that somehow only gets half a million visitors a year. You have to hike the , a 45-square-mile expanse that will have you thinking you鈥檙e in the Sahara. The popular three-mile Kelso Dunes Trail will take you to the top of the tallest mound, which rises 650 feet.

Also, the easy, mile-long Lava Tube Trail provides access to an actual lava tube, where the sun pours in through a 鈥渟ky light鈥 in the stone. Wherever you explore, keep an eye out for the desert tortoise, a threatened species that lives in the Mojave鈥檚 valleys and moves slowly through the heat. The preserve has three developed campgrounds. Try to reserve a spot at , which has potable water ($25 per night).

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. He鈥檚 been in love with road trips since he read Jack Kerouac鈥檚 On the Road at age 17. His longest road trip to date was a month-long romp through the Southwest with his wife and twin then four-year-olds. Recently, he wrote about bucket-list golf courses, the best hikes in Joshua Tree National Park, and the nine national parks that will need timed-entry reservations this year. One of the weirdest places he鈥檚 ever slept for a story was a renovated lookout tower in the middle of the ocean.

graham averill, chilling on his tailgate after a long hike in joshua tree national park
The author after a long, hot hike in Joshua Tree (Photo: Graham Averill)

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These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break /adventure-travel/national-parks/national-parks-spring-break/ Tue, 04 Feb 2025 10:30:10 +0000 /?p=2694564 These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break

I found big adventure and warm weather in these national-park units spread across the Southeast and Southwest

The post These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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These Are the 7 Best National Parks to Visit for Spring Break

Planning spring break is high pressure. You only get a one-week respite from school or work, and the timing, late March or early April, makes it tough to find a location with consistently good weather. Those months could offer spring ski conditions or prime surf weather鈥攐r not.

More than a few times, I鈥檝e had to pivot at the last minute, having thought it would be warm enough for family surfing on the Outer Banks for spring break and then found temperatures in the low 50s. We moved our vacation further south.

Yes, south is the operative word. So relax, because I鈥檝e found seven national-park units in the Southeast and Southwest that offer gorgeous landscapes, many days鈥 worth of adventures, and just-about-guaranteed warm weather for the perfect spring break trip.

1. Cumberland Island National Seashore, Georgia

Best for: Swimming, Camping, and Contemplating History

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from mid 70s to mid 80s

seashells and empty beaches at Cumberland Island National Seashore
A bounty of seashells on Cumberland Island National Seashore, a barrier island shrouded in history (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Cumberland Island is wild. The largest barrier island off the coast of Georgia, Cumberland is a 17-mile-long, 36,000-acre swath of pristine beaches, tall dunes, maritime forests, fresh lakes, and marshy canals. Even though the Carnegie family once owned the island, and descendants still have some private property, Cumberland protects almost 10,000 acres of federally designated wilderness. The only way to reach the island is by a 45-minute ($20 one way) or private boat, and once you鈥檙e there the only way to get around is by foot or bike on hiking trails and 50 miles of sandy roads.

dirt road Cumberland Island National Seashore
No joke that this place is wild. This dirt road in the maritime forest of Cumberland Island is the main drive, and otherwise you travel on foot or bike.听(Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The island has no stores, so bring everything you鈥檒l need, and be prepared to pack it all back out. You鈥檒l see some ruins from a Victorian-era mansion built in 1884 as a winter home for Thomas Carnegie, as well as the remnants of a freedmen鈥檚 community of former slaves. You may spot members of the colony of feral horses that still roam the island, which are likely descendants of the horses brought over by the British during the War of 1812.

As for beaches, Cumberland offers 15 miles of undeveloped sand and dunes facing the Atlantic. For solitude, keep heading north away from the docks until you reach a patch of sand that鈥檚 too far for day-trippers to claim. It鈥檚 tough to find this much raw beach on the East Coast, so soak it in. The Atlantic is rough, but fine for swimming. Stay out of the marshes on the west side of the island, as they鈥檙e popular hangouts for alligators.

Where to Stay: is an all-inclusive hotel operating in one of the Carnegies鈥 former vacation homes (from $895 a night), but most visitors . Sea Camp has bathrooms and showers and allows fires (from $22 a night). Stafford Beach is more remote, requiring a three-mile hike from the docks, and it, too, has bathrooms with showers (from $12 a night). Book your spot early, up to six months in advance.

2. Big Bend National Park, Texas

Best for: Hiking, Biking, Climbing, Canoeing, Stargazing

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to high 70s

Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park
A summer shower passes through the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park, Texas. These mountains are considered the heart of the park, with many of the best hikes in the region, particularly in summer when the high elevation offers cool temps. (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

The 800,000-acre Big Bend National Park has been a spring-break destination for decades. My mother-in-law still talks fondly about spending college spring breaks camping there during the 1960s.

Late March and early April are the busiest times to visit the park. But 鈥渃rowded鈥 is a relative term; I hit the place a few years ago at the end of March and never felt overwhelmed or discouraged by other visitors, mainly because the park and its neighboring Big Bend Ranch State Park are so large. I hiked, rode my bike, camped, and enjoyed the 鈥淔ar West Texas鈥 vibe of it all.

The Big Bend landscape is straight out of a Western, with its vistas of canyons, the towering Chisos Mountains, and big stretches of rocky desert. It鈥檚 a great place to explore by boot, bike, or boat, an ideal multi-sport national-park trip.

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Hikers should tackle the 5.5-mile out and back Window Trail, which descends 1,000 feet from the Chisos Trailhead, at 5,400 feet elevation, through Oak Creek Canyon to a sheer drop-off framed by towering cliffs. Be prepared (and take water) for the steady climb back to the trailhead. Depending on recent storms, there could be a small stream in the center of the canyon, but the trail is still navigable. Subject to changes in the water level, you can paddle a 20-mile section of the Rio Grande through Santa Elena Canyon, which narrows to 100 feet wide, with limestone cliffs blotting out the sun. The area has been in a drought for the last couple of years, so spring trips aren鈥檛 guaranteed, but check with for water levels and trip options (from $160 per person).

 

 

 

Rio Grande Angell Expeditions video by Taylor Reilly

Just outside the national park is , with its bounty of mountain biking, where you can pedal to a backcountry oasis and through a slope filled with sparkling gemstones. Regardless of what you do, at the end of the day you must soak in the historic hot springs that are carved out of the Rio Grande.

octillo plant in Big Bend area
Octillo blazes red in fall in Big Bend Ranch State Park, Big Bend area, Texas (Photo: Gary Nored/AnEyeForTexas)

Where to Stay: Chisos Mountain Lodge inside the park has 72 rooms, a restaurant, and a general store (from $170 a night). has 60 sites up almost a mile high in elevation; make reservations up to six months in advance ($16 a night).

3. Death Valley National Park, California

Best for Cycling, Hiking, Stargazing

Average Temps in March and April: Highs from 65 to 75

lake in Death Valley National Park
In Death Valley National Park, rains can create ephemeral lakes on the salt flats. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

It would be borderline crazy to visit Death Valley National Park in the summertime, but in early spring, the temperatures are chef鈥檚-kiss perfect. Visitors in spring may also have the huge bonus of seeing the wildflowers pop off, particularly in the lower elevations, in fields of desert gold, poppies, and verbena. If you鈥檙e really into hitting the park during peak flower power, watch the rangers鈥 on which wildflowers are blooming throughout spring and summer.

Also cool: the park is home to one of the world鈥檚 rarest fish, the Devils Hole pupfish, an endangered species found only in a water cavern in Devils Hole here. The pupfish are visible during the annual spring migration as they move within the hole seeking warmth from direct sunlight. Scientists counted 191 of them last April, the highest count in 25 years.

You don鈥檛 need to be a cyclist to enjoy Death Valley鈥攖here are plenty of hiking trails鈥攂ut two wheels is a hell of a way to explore this landscape, with 785 miles of roads open to bikes. Cruise through otherworldly terrain like salt flats, expansive sand dunes, and red-rock formations, before climbing into mountains of up to 11,000 feet.

starry skies at Death Valley National Park
Death Valley National Park is an International Dark Sky Park. Come see the skies. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

Artist鈥檚 Drive, a paved nine-mile one-way loop, is the park鈥檚 signature ride. It climbs from below sea level to 880 feet above it, offering views of the surrounding moon-like white sands and mountains on the horizon. At the crest, you鈥檒l be surrounded by pink and tan hills, which narrow to canyon-like proportions on the fun downhill to finish the loop. To give you a sense of the terrain, parts of the Star Wars franchise were filmed off this road.

Where to Stay: If you鈥檙e looking for nice digs, will put you in the heart of the action, and with a pool (from $507 a night). is the best developed campground in the park, with 136 sites on the valley floor and mountain views. Book up to six months in advance (from $30 a night).

4. White Sands National Park, New Mexico

Best for Hiking and Sand Sledding

Average Temperatures in March and April: 70 to 80

Sand dunes at sunrise, White Sands National Park
Sunrise highlights the white sand dunes and far San Andres Mountains at White Sands National Park, New Mexico, established as a national monument in 1933 and receiving the further designation only in 2019. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

One of the newest national parks (established in 2019), White Sands isn鈥檛 huge, just 175,000 acres, but it protects half of the world鈥檚 largest gypsum-crystal field. The dunes roll through the Tularosa Basin like bright white waves, creating a landscape unlike anything else on this planet. You can see the San Andres Mountains on the horizon beyond the park, but it鈥檚 the sloping dunes that will mesmerize you.

father and daughter sled on Great Sand Dunes
If you walk up, you will be able to sled down. A father and daughter will remember the slide at Great Sand Dunes National Park, New Mexico. (Photo: Courtesy NPS)

The eight-mile Dunes Drive scenic road delivers you into the center of the dunes from the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle, and the road also accesses the park鈥檚 five different hiking trails. The Dune Life Nature Trail is an easy one-mile loop that serves as a good intro to the landscape. But if you really want to dig into the dunes, hike the five-mile , which traces the edge of an ancient lake that has been replaced by the waves of dunes. You鈥檒l climb and descend 60-foot sandy mounds throughout.

full moon night concert
Full-moon night concert, White Sands National Park, New Mexico (Photo: NPS)

If you can time it right, hit the park on a , when White Sands is open into the night, and ranger-led programs include guided hikes. And definitely bring a sled (or buy one in the park gift shop). The dunes at the are open to sledding, and the gypsum hills behave exactly like snow slopes.

Where to Stay: There is currently no camping inside the park: its backcountry campsites are closed for rehabilitation, with no timeline as to when they will be in service. The town of Alamogordo, 15 miles east of the park, has a variety of chain hotels.

 

 

5. Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida and Mississippi

Best for Island Hopping, Swimming, Surfing, Fishing, Birdwatching

Average Temperatures in March and April: Low to mid 70s

white sand dunes and sunset sky at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Florida
White quartz sand dunes glow in the light of sunset along the Gulf of Mexico at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Santa Rosa County, Florida. With clear water and bright sand, the beach is excellent for swimming and fishing. (Photo: Marica van der Meer/Arterra/Universal Images Group/Getty)

A lot of people have discovered the Gulf Islands National Seashore. In 2023, visitation jumped 40 percent, from 5.7 million to 8.2 million people, making this unit the fifth-most-visited in the park service. People are showing up for the white-sand beaches on the mainland and for barrier islands that you can only reach by boat. The national seashore is made up of a series of parks, beaches, and islands, split between Florida and Mississippi, and all surrounded by clear, aqua-blue waters that are home to gopher tortoises, bottlenose dolphins, starfish, crabs鈥nd the 300 species of birds that migrate through the area.

The easiest island to reach is Ship, 12 miles off the coast and accessible by regular from Gulfport and Biloxi ($44 per person, round trip). Once you鈥檙e on the island, you can explore the historic fort, lounge on the beaches, or swim in the Gulf. The recreation area is fully developed with concessions and restrooms, so it鈥檚 a convenient getaway.

woman paddleboarding, Gulf Islands National Seashore
Liz Averill goes paddleboarding in the waters of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Visitors also canoe, kayak, fish, and camp. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you鈥檙e looking for something wilder, consider venturing to , an eight-mile-long barrier island protected as a federally designated Wilderness area, so there are no commercial ferries to the island and no facilities on the ground. But if you have your own boat or want to hire a charter (from $675 at ), you鈥檒l find an island ringed with sugar-white sand beaches and grassy dunes, while pine trees and lagoons pack the interior. Mind the occasional alligator.

pelican flies over Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore
A brown pelican rides the air currents above Opal Beach, Gulf Island National Seashore, Navarre, Florida. The national seashore is known for its birdwatching. (Photo: Courtesy Owens/NPS)

Where to Stay: The campground, on the mainland near the town of Ocean Springs, sits inside a maritime forest, with marshes and fishing docks ($25 a night, book six months in advance). You鈥檙e also allowed to on the beach on a few of the barrier islands (Petit Bois, West Petit Bois, and Horn Island) inside the park, but stay off the dunes and any vegetation, don鈥檛 bring any mechanical devices (ie, no coolers with wheels), and be prepared for a true wilderness experience, as there are no facilities.

6. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Utah and Arizona

Best for Boating, Swimming, Hiking

Average Temperatures in March and April: Highs from 60 to 69

smiling woman and friends packrafting in Glen Canyon
Lizzy Scully, left, packrafting guide, smiles while balancing, yes, a bike on her boat on a trip in Glen Canyon. On the right is Steve “Doom” Fassbinder. The two own Four Corners Guides, a multi-sport outfit based in Mancos, Colorado. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Glen Canyon protects the incredible 1.25 million acres of land and water where the Colorado River pours into Lake Powell. The blue water of the lake contrasts sharply with the red and pink sandstone walls that rise directly from the edge, and the lake has countless fingers and canyons to explore by boat.

The water levels of Powell are constantly shifting, and have generally been in decline the last 20 years. Check the park site鈥檚 to make sure the boat ramp or launch you have in mind is operational. The lake was low when I visited a few years ago on a biking and paddle trip, and we had to contend with some mud on the banks, but the place was no less stunning.

The Antelope Point ramp typically has the least boat traffic, so it鈥檚 conducive to use of kayaks or canoes. From there, you can head south on the lake for a mile and paddle into Antelope Canyon, a narrow slot canyon that鈥檚 also a no-wake (no motorboating) zone. Under normal water levels, you can follow the creek upstream for about a mile. offers rental kayaks (from $75 a day). You can also launch directly from the beaches at Lone Rock Beach and Stanton Creek and explore the lake surrounding those alcoves.

Camping on the banks of Glen Canyon
Cheers! Pretty hard to beat camp beers in Glen Canyon, Utah. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Off the water, an easy 1.25-mile hike leads to one of the overlooks at , where the Colorado River takes a drastic turn around a massive sandstone escarpment.

Where to Stay: All inside the recreation area are first-come, first-served. Lees Ferry Campground has 54 sites, potable water, and restrooms ($26 a night). Lone Rock Beach has primitive sites on a sandy beach right next to the water ($14 per night).

7. Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, Arizona

Best for Overlanding, Hiking, and Seeking Solitude

Average Temperatures in March and April: High 50s to mid 60s

river canyon of Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument
Established in 2000, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is operated by the National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management. Once the land of the Southern Paiute and other groups, it contains burial sites, art panels, and other troves, also old mining and homestead sites and ruins. It offers solitude, camping, hiking, and dark skies. (Photo: Courtesy R. Seely/NPS)

The Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument is primitive. This Northern Arizona park has no facilities, no campgrounds, and no paved roads. Instead, visitors are treated to the sights of 1 million acres of expansive plateaus, rugged canyons, and Mojave Desert, all traversed by a series of unimproved dirt roads and hiking trails. In other words, this monument is ideal for self-contained overlanding. I spent three days cruising Grand Canyon-Parashant in a side-by-side with a rooftop tent, while hiking and biking at various spots throughout, and was as mesmerized by the solitude as the grandeur of the landscape.

overlanders camp at Grand Canyon Parashant
Overlanders converge at Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument, which is stacked with backcountry dirt roads and scenic viewpoints. (Photo: Graham Averill)

If you have a high-clearance 4WD vehicle, the monument is yours to explore. The park service details an 80-mile adventure to that cruises through a variety of terrain, from cattle fields to ponderosa forests, and ends on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. If you choose this route, you鈥檒l also have the chance to get out and stretch your legs on the Burnt Canyon Trail, an easy three-mile out-and-back on a grassy road bed that leads to a big view of the western edge of the Grand Canyon. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mount Charleston, just outside of Las Vegas.

I took a roundabout, multi-day route to reach , with its long view into the Canyon, and an optional side hike down to the water. The last seven miles to Whitmore Point drop 1,500 feet over rocky, rutted terrain that was super fun to bomb on a mountain bike. The fastest way to this perch is a 50-mile traverse from Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse.

Where to Stay: Primitive camping is allowed throughout the monument, but if you鈥檙e looking for a bit of refinement in the midst of all this rugged adventure, the has hotel rooms and covered wagons on an inholding close to the northern rim of the Grand Canyon. It鈥檚 only accessible by a 70-mile dirt-road drive through the national monument or an airplane (the place has its own landing strip), but once you鈥檙e there, you鈥檒l be able to refuel your vehicle and have a damn fine dinner (starting at $172 a night).

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national-parks columnist. Every year, he agonizes over how to maximize his kids鈥 spring break, dragging them to campsites in Florida, beaches in South Carolina, and lakes all over the Southeast. He recently wrote about hiking in Joshua Tree National Park and his absolute favorite mountain town on the East Coast. His latest article is all about visiting national parks for free.

Graham Averill, author
Graham Averill on-site at Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

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鈥楾he Fish Thief鈥 Explores a Crisis in the Great Lakes Caused by the Sea Lamprey /culture/books-media/fish-thief-lamprey/ Fri, 17 Jan 2025 17:22:42 +0000 /?p=2693997 鈥楾he Fish Thief鈥 Explores a Crisis in the Great Lakes Caused by the Sea Lamprey

The invasive sea lamprey brought Great Lakes fishing to its knees in the fifties and sixties, until local communities and scientists battled back. The new film 鈥楾he Fish Thief鈥 explores the fight.

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鈥楾he Fish Thief鈥 Explores a Crisis in the Great Lakes Caused by the Sea Lamprey

If you grew up on any one of the Great Lakes, like I did, you may have heard of the sea lamprey鈥攁 vampiric creature that literally sucks the life out of a lake trout. As a kid, I thought they were a myth, a horror story that parents liked to tell kids on fishing trips. I wasn鈥檛 aware of the havoc this parasitic fish wrought on the entire region when it first wiggled its way from the Atlantic Ocean into the largest freshwater ecosystem on earth.

A new documentary, The Fish Thief: A Great Lakes Mystery, unpacks the ecological crisis created by the lamprey, and the extraordinary effort to contain it. 鈥淭he sea lamprey is what put invasive species on the map in the Great Lakes,鈥 says director Lindsey Haskin. 鈥淔or many people, it was the first time they become aware of the scale of damage that鈥檚 possible.鈥

The Great Lakes鈥擮ntario, Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior鈥攕traddle the border between Canada and the U.S. Five million people fish them every year, reeling in tasty catches like yellow perch and walleye, and even coho salmon, which was introduced for sport fishing in the late 1960s. Recreational and commercial fishing in the Great Lakes region is a $7 billion industry. Growing up in Cleveland, Ohio, on the shore of Lake Erie, my earliest outdoor memory is fishing with my dad from the Neff Road breakwall.

Oscar-winning actor J.K. Simmons narrates The Fish Thief. Simmons describes how sea lampreys worked their way into the Great Lakes from the Atlantic Ocean via the St. Lawrence Seaway to Lake Ontario. For most of history, Niagara Falls prevented them from spreading any further.

A sea lamprey attaches itself to a fish (Photo: The Fish Thief/A. Miehls )

That changed in the early 1900s, with improvements to the Welland Canal, which bypasses Niagara Falls to create a shipping channel between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. The first sea lamprey was found in Lake Erie in 1921. By 1938, sea lampreys had infiltrated the rest of the lakes, all the way to the farthest corners of Lake Superior.

Sea lampreys resemble eels with their long tubular shape. But their mouths are unmistakable: a suction cup lined with concentric circles of fangs, spiraling down to a toothed tongue. They latch onto other fish, create a wound with their razor-sharp teeth and tongue, and suck out blood and other fluids.

In the Atlantic Ocean, where sea lampreys have lived for more than 340 million years, they are mere parasites, attaching themselves most often to sharks and other sea mammals. But in the Great Lakes, very few fish are large enough to escape unscathed from a sea lamprey encounter. By the 1940s, the blood-suckers were killing their hosts鈥攍ake trout, lake whitefish, and ciscoes鈥攊n droves.

The region鈥檚 fishing industry began to collapse in the 1950s, paralyzing towns and Indigenous communities on every shoreline. By 1960, the annual Great Lakes catch, once around 15 million pounds of fish, had plummeted by 98 percent to a mere 300,000 pounds.

The Fish Thief, which has won awards on the environmental film festival circuit in North America and Europe, is the first to tell the story of the lamprey in its entirety, from the initial mystery of droves of dead fish, to the resulting ecological crisis, to the efforts to find a solution. It was eight years in the making.

A fish with two lamprey wounds (Photo: The Fish Thief/R. Shaw)

Haskin, who grew up in the region, near Detroit, says they filmed in a variety of regions, 鈥渇rom the far east extremes of Lake Ontario all the way to Duluth, Minnesota, and down to Chicago.鈥

What stood out most for Haskin about the project was the tenacity of the people involved devising a solution to the lakes鈥 ecological collapse. 鈥淭he original title for the film was Relentless, which applied to the sea lamprey, but also to the people that did battle with it,鈥 Haskin says. 鈥淭heir original ideas failed, but they just stuck to it and kept going and kept going and kept going and eventually found a solution that has been workable for almost 70 years now.鈥

Part of the challenge was the cross-border cooperation required to study, test, and, eventually, implement processes to bring the ecosystem back into balance. It required federal government oversight, which most of the fishing industry, and many of the states and provinces bordering the Great Lakes, were hesitant at first to enlist. But eventually, they ran out of options. There was nothing left to do but trust that the government (and science) could find a solution. In 1955, the U.S. and Canada formed the Great Lakes Fishery Commission, the first joint agency of its kind.

Scientists examine juvenile sea lampreys in 1958 (Photo: The Fish Thief/R. Shaw)

The commission confirmed that it was impossible to eradicate sea lampreys from the Great Lakes. But scientists could greatly reduce the invasive species鈥 numbers by attacking them during their larval stage, when they live as filter-feeders in lake tributaries. Some 6,000 compounds were tested to find the best 鈥渓ampricide,鈥 a pesticide capable of destroying lamprey larvae without significantly impacting other organisms, or causing long-term damage to the ecosystem.

Administering the pesticide to larvae in tributaries, as well as using barriers and traps to prohibit full-grown sea lampreys from making it out of the tributaries into the Great Lakes, cut the 鈥渧ampire fish鈥 population by 90 percent. The Great Lakes Fishery Commission, in partnership with U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Fisheries and Oceans Canada, and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, has been working to keep sea lampreys at that benign level ever since.

The sea monster of my youth is real. The next time someone from back home brings up sea lampreys, I鈥檓 going to have a whole lot more to add to the story.

The Fish Thief: A Great Lakes Mystery is set to release on January 31, 2025 in the U.S. and Canada, where it will be available to stream, download, or rent on platforms including Apple TV/iTunes, Amazon, Google/YouTube, and Tubi.

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The 9 Wildest Golf Courses in America /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-golf-courses-america/ Sun, 24 Nov 2024 13:00:48 +0000 /?p=2688532 The 9 Wildest Golf Courses in America

Golf is a great outdoor sport, and it鈥檚 also changing. These courses are on the cutting edge of sustainability鈥攁nd they're close to adventure.

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The 9 Wildest Golf Courses in America

Golf gets a bad rap. The sport has a reputation for being too expensive and too resource-intensive, which are true in some cases. There are private clubs so expensive you need to be a billionaire to join, and courses where the landscape was bulldozed to make way for overwatered and overfertilized fairways.

But not every golf course is that way.

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A movement is afoot to make golf more accessible and sustainable. How do I know? I鈥檓 an avid golfer. I play twice a week, mostly on public courses that are cheap and built over repurposed farmland. Affordable golf is actually easy to find, but better yet is the sustainability movement that鈥檚 creeping into destination courses.

鈥淭he golf industry has made tremendous strides in the area of sustainability over the past 20 to 30 years,鈥 says Frank LaVardera, director of environmental programs in golf for , which operates America鈥檚 first and most comprehensive green-golf-course certification program. 鈥淭raditional courses use a significant amount of water and chemicals, but many courses are reducing their amount of managed turf鈥濃攖he manicured lawns that require so much water and fertilizer鈥斺渁nd creating native areas that require less water, while enhancing wildlife habitat.鈥

Big Cedar golf course in Missouri
Cliffs and waterfall at Payne鈥檚 Valley Golf Course, Big Cedar Lodge, in the Ozark Mountains of Missouri. The public-access course was designed by Tiger Woods and Johnny Morris. (Photo: Matt Suess/mattsuess.com)

What an Eco-Conscious Golf Course Means

Audubon International鈥檚 certification process can take years, and requires evaluation of a course鈥檚 impact on wildlife habitat, water quality and conservation, pest management, and energy efficiency. In turn, eco-minded course managers reduce the amount of turf, use recycled gray water to irrigate, emphasize walking over use of gas-powered carts, and create wildlife habitats with natural grasses and trees that attract birds, bees, and even the occasional bear. Since 2001, when the program was introduced, Audubon鈥檚 Cooperative Sanctuary Program for Golf has grown to include more than 2,000 certified courses in the U.S. and beyond.

The timing of this sustainability movement couldn鈥檛 be better, as America has rediscovered its love of golf. According to the (NGF), 3.4 million new people played golf in America last year. Each of the past 10 years saw more than 2 million beginners, with the past four topping 3 million.

Golf’s Changing Demographics

The that since the pandemic era, women and people of color have been flocking to the game; the biggest demographic jump has come from traditionally under-represented populations, with the number of Asian, Black and Hispanic golfers rising by 43 percent in the last five years. Of the 26 million people who play golf recreationally, 23 percent are people of color and 26 percent are women.

The demographic makeup of the Professional Golf Association (PGA) is still skewed (80 percent of pro golfers are white), but the game is changing from the ground up as recreational players trend toward being younger and more diverse. The most sought-after clothing brands in the sport, like Malbon and Eastside Golf, bring streetwear aesthetics to the golf industry, while many prolific and successful golfers on social media are women and people of color. If you鈥檙e not following on Instagram, you should be.

Kids' golf class at Lakota Links, New Castle, Colorado
The sport is getting younger, too: a kids’ golf class was offered weekly this past summer at Lakota Links, New Castle, Western Colorado (Photo: Michael Benge)

Part of the issue with diversifying the outdoors is access. There were 480 ski resorts in operation last year, with most of them located in remote, mountainous regions. Compare that to the 16,000+ golf courses scattered all over the country. I live in a southeastern mountain town that is not known for its golf, but I can play on any of 10 courses situated within half an hour of my home. There are three courses within three miles of downtown, and I play on two of them for under $20 a round. A program called enables members aged 18 and under to play any of its 2,133 enrolled courses across the U.S. for just $5 a round.

My 15-year-old son is a YOC member, and able to play half a dozen courses within 10 miles of our home. He and I can walk nine holes of golf for $20 combined, $35 if we want to play 18.

teenager learning golf in Colorado
Rafael Gonzales, age 13, of Rifle, Colorado, works on his swing under the gaze of a pro at Lakota Links, New Castle, Colorado. (Photo: Michael Benge)

Why I Love Golf

As for the argument that golf shouldn鈥檛 be considered an outdoor sport because of its environmental impact, most things we do leave footprints. I鈥檝e been a dedicated skier since age 12, and I don鈥檛 love the fact that the ski industry has gotten cartoonishly expensive and is resource-intensive, especially in water use. But I do love skiing. I have the same relationship with golf. It鈥檚 not perfect, but I love it.

This surprises people because I make a living writing about adventure sports, and I have the scars and expensive-gear habit to prove it. People assume golf and surfing or mountain biking are a world apart, but look closely in my garage and you鈥檒l see a set of golf clubs tucked between my mountain bike and longboard.

When I play, I always walk, carry my bag, and try not to focus too much on my score. It鈥檚 a slow, meditative walk in the woods. I like the challenge of golf as well. I recently picked the sport up again after a 20-year-hiatus, and I鈥檓 consumed with the pursuit of getting better, but I also know that I鈥檒l never master golf. No matter how good I get at hitting a little white ball in the air, there will always be room for improvement.

Golf is cerebral and thought-provoking in a way that the other fast-paced sports I love are not. The game is 99.99 percent mental, allowing me to see how my thoughts impact my actions. Golf is a chance to clear your head and be outside.

Fortunately, there are certain destinations where golf and adventure go hand in hand. Some of the most sustainable golf courses in America are located in places that could be on any adventure-traveler鈥檚 radar, so you can play 18 holes one afternoon and go mountain biking or surfing the next morning.

Here are nine of the wildest, most sustainable golf courses in the world, each paired with a local adventure to round out the perfect weekend.

If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside. Learn more.

1. Bear Trace, Harrison, Tennessee

Fee: Starting at $41 for 18 holes

Bear Trace at Harrison Bay State Park, Tennessee
Bear Trace at Harrison Bay State Park, outside of Chattanooga, was designed by the grandmaster Jack Nicklaus. (Photo: Courtesy Tennessee State Parks)

Even if you鈥檙e not a golfer, you know the name of Jack Nicklaus, one of the game鈥檚 most famous professionals. Not only was Nicklaus a legendary golfer, he was also a designer, creating courses all over the country, including this 18-hole masterpiece sits in the 1200-acre Harrison Bay State Park, 20 miles outside of Chattanooga. In the last two decades, managers have addressed every aspect of the course to minimize its impact, converting the greens from bentgrass to a less-thirsty Bermudagrass, removing 50 acres of turf to cede that area to natural grasses, and eliminating irrigation beyond the greens. The place has also purchased all-electric maintenance equipment, and installed mallard nesting tubes, wood duck boxes, and feeders for bluebirds and wild turkey.

As a result, as of 2008, Bear Trace is a certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, and restored the wildlife habitat to the point where the course was home to a pair of nesting bald eagles for a decade.

Harrison Bay State Park has golf.
Sunset at Harrison Bay State Park, which has boating, hiking, camping, as well as golf. Each of the golf destinations in this article sits near stellar spots for other outdoor pursuits. (Photo: Jesse Hunter/Getty)

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Paddling on in Harrison Bay State Park makes for a fun afternoon (paddle boards are $8 an hour through the park). If you鈥檙e looking for something more adventurous, , 45 miles west of the state park, offers trips (from $50 per person) on class III-IV whitewater full of play spots and wave trains that formed the 1996 Olympic whitewater course.

2. Big Cedar Lodge, Ridgedale, Missouri

Fees: 听Starting from $80 for the 13-hole short course

airy course at Big Cedar Lodge
Big Cedar Lodge is a top American destination, and considered the best public golf in the Midwest. It was the first golf resort in the world to receive Audubon International鈥檚 highest certification for sustainable practice. (Photo: Courtesy Big Cedar Lodge)

OK, is a behemoth. The brainchild of Johnny Morris, the founder of Bass Pro Shops, the 4,600-acre retreat features five distinct public golf courses, all set amid a dramatic Ozark Mountains backdrop, with routing that regularly nears ancient limestone cliffs. In recent years, Big Cedar Lodge has become one of the country鈥檚 top golf destinations, regarded as the best public golf in the Midwest.

Big Cedar Lodge was the first golf resort in the world to receive Audubon International鈥檚 highest certification, the Signature Sanctuary status, given for all five of its courses. Water conservation and improving wildlife habitat are priorities, with more than 75 percent organic fertilizer used, while chemical runoff and water use are addressed through a water-recycling program with reclamation ponds, as well as moisture meters embedded in the ground to help minimize watering in general.

One of Johnny Morris鈥 founding principles is the notion of connecting people and the outdoors. On several holes his courses put the golfer between towering limestone cliffs, and, extra cool, those who play Big Cedar Lodge鈥檚 Buffalo Ridge course can spy herds of bison that roam and feed on the natural-grass prairies surrounding the fairways.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: You could spend your entire weekend playing different courses at Big Cedar Lodge, but bring your mountain bike, too. The resort is on the edge of , which has 11 miles of cross-country trails in a stacked-loop system that hugs the shoreline of Table Rock Lake. Or you could hit the gravity-minded , which has 10 trails and a pump track and skills area. The place has something for everyone, from the kid who鈥檚 just learning how to brake, to the adult who thinks he鈥檚 a kid sending gaps (day passes start at $45).

3. Streamsong Golf Resort, Bowling Green, Florida

Fees: Starting at $249 for 18 holes

Streamsong Golf Resort, Bowling Green, Florida
The Chain, shown here, is a short 鈥渃hoose your own adventure鈥 course at Streamsong Golf Resort, Bowling Green, Florida. The resort is built on land once used by a phosphate strip mine. Much of the land is now covered in dunes. (Photo: Courtesy Streamsong Golf Resort)

This massive golf retreat 60 miles east of Tampa wins my vote for best use of scarred land. built its courses on 16,000 acres of land that was previously used for a phosphate strip mine. After the mining ended, sand dunes took over, and course designers used all of that bumpy elevation to create a whimsical playground where fairways wind through grassy mounds and small ponds.

Course designers used compost in the soil before grassing to reduce the need for fertilization, and limited the acreage of maintained turf, opting instead for natural grasses and dunes beyond the fairways. The resort has a water-treatment facility that captures rainwater, and reuses it for irrigation. Streamsong features three 18-hole courses, and a short course, called The Chain, that has no set tee boxes or suggested pars. This short course is a 鈥渃hoose your own adventure鈥 sort of experience.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: You can keep the reclaimed land theme rolling by driving 25 miles west to , 7,714 acres of surprisingly hilly terrain on a former phosphate mine, with more than 20 miles of mountain biking and hiking trails through a forest and alongside lakes and the banks of the Alafia River. Streamsong wasn鈥檛 impacted much by Hurricane Milton when it hit October 9, both because the courses were designed to manage water and the place had few trees for high winds to damage. But much of this area of Florida was devastated by the storm, so check with surrounding businesses and parks before exploring the area.

4. Chambers Bay, University Place, Washington

Fees: Starting at $85 for 18 holes

golf Chambers Bay course
The Chambers Bay golf course overlooks Puget Sound in Washington. (Photo: intradesigns/Getty)

This 18-hole course is links-style, meaning that like Scotland’s St. Andrews, believed to be the oldest course in the world, it has little to no manipulation of the land, resulting in rugged terrain, with many dunes covered in tall grasses. Similarly set on a craggy shoreline of Washington, it might also be the pinnacle of sustainable design. was built on reclaimed mine land, turning a former gravel pit into a championship course that now enhances the landscape. Designers shaped the course with native plants and wildflowers like douglas iris, and sodded with drought-resistant fescue grass species.

golf Puget Sound Washington State
The winners’ circle for age 10-11 girls (from left, Elin Wendorf, Ananya Vasantha Venkataraghavan, and Jody Li) is all smiles at the Drive, Chip and Putt Regional Final, Chambers Bay, University Place, in September. (Photo: Stephen Brashear/Getty)

The fairways are irrigated with recycled gray water and fertilized with treated bio-waste from the county鈥檚 wastewater plant. Chambers Bay doesn鈥檛 have golf carts; it鈥檚 a walking-only facility. (Some courses in the U.S. require golfers to use carts on weekends to maintain a quick pace of play.) Maybe the best part is that Chambers Bay is a municipal course, with affordable fees. It鈥檚 also located within a county park with trails adjacent to the links and coast, so you don鈥檛 have to play golf to enjoy the scenery.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Chambers Creek Regional Park, which is home to the golf course, is a 930-acre preserve with two miles of shoreline and more than five miles of paved trails with views of Puget Sound. You should also drive 50 miles east to Mount Rainier National Park, where you can hike the 5.5-mile loop on , bagging copious views of the eponymous 14,411-foot active volcano in all its glaciated glory.

5. Black Desert Resort, Ivins, Utah

Fees: Starting at $300 for 18 holes

Black Desert Resort is in the Utah desert
Black Desert Resort, built a year and a half ago in Ivins, Utah, is only 600 acres, with 75 acres of turf. (Photo: Brian Oar)

A 19-hole course that opened in May 2023, was built from the ground up with the surrounding environment in mind. The entire property is only 600 acres, with just 75 acres of turf, all irrigated with non-potable gray water, and the fairways are made from a drought-tolerant bentgrass species that needs less maintenance and fertilizer than many other common turf grasses. Almost 70 percent of the grounds are dedicated as protected open space, and sustainability was a factor throughout the property鈥檚 design, from having a low-voltage power infrastructure for the resort to using an irrigation system in a grid, where each section can be adjusted individually.

The coolest aspect of the course is that it鈥檚 become a haven for endangered fish species. The property managers partnered with the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources to relocate 400 Virgin River Chub, a kind of rare minnow, to the lakes on the golf course, so they can live and breed in a stable environment. The course itself is gorgeous, running through fields of black lava rocks with views of the surrounding red cliffs.

Black Desert Resort
The resort is located nine miles from St. George and 48 miles from Zion National Park, with all their recreational opportunities. (Photo: Brian Oar)

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Long-term plans for Black Desert include building several miles of hiking trails. Moreover, the resort sits nine miles north of St. George, just an hour (48 miles) west of Zion National Park. If it鈥檚 your first time to Zion, snag a ($3 plus a $6 registration fee) and hike , a 5.5-mile out-and-back that involves a bit of scrambling and ridgeline traversing and might just lead to one of the most iconic photo sites in our national-park system.

To dig deeper into the park, consider trekking through , a slot canyon where the walls of Zion Canyon rise 1,000 feet up while pinching to 30 feet wide at certain points. You鈥檒l be hiking through the river, so be prepared to get wet. The shortest route is a 9.5-mile out and back from the Temple of Sinawava, a red-walled natural amphitheater, to Big Spring, which is as far as you can go without a permit, but hits some of the skinniest portions of the gorge. Just don鈥檛 attempt it when there鈥檚 rain in the as flash floods are common and fatalities have occurred. Save it for a stellar day.

6. The Mountain Course at Spruce Peak, Stowe, Vermont

Fees: Starting at $165 for 18, and you need to stay at The Lodge at Spruce Peak to play (rooms start at $249).

Spruce Peak golf course
Spruce Peak, the name of a golf course and a community built around sustainable principles, sits at the base of the venerable Stowe Mountain Resort, northern Vermont. (Photo: Courtesy Anderson James/Spruce Peak)

Surrounded by 2,000 acres of preserved land, the rambles along the flank of the mountain it is named for, with views of the adjacent Mount Mansfield, Vermont鈥檚 tallest peak, to boot. Spruce Peak, which sits at the base of Stowe Mountain Resort, was designed with the environment in mind, input from Audubon International, and a focus on preserving local black-bear populations by routing around their preferred habitat of beech trees. Designers also created buffers around streams and ponds to protect water quality, and planted a mix of native flowers and grasses, like milkweed and false sunflower, around tee boxes.

Peregrine Lake serves as a water feature for golfers to admire and avoid, but also a reservoir capturing rainwater that is used to feed snowmaking operations at Stowe Mountain Resort. Course management hosts an annual field trip to teach a local fifth-grade class about the elements of water quality.

golf Spruce Peak
The Mountain Club at Spruce Peak, in the greenest of states, Vermont. That is, until the fall foliage explodes. (Photo: Courtesy Anderson James/Spruce Peak)

The course fits into the greater ecosystem of the Spruce Peak community, a resort and residential property at the base of Stowe Mountain Resort that was built around eco-sensitive principles like a property-wide composting program and a renewable energy program that provides more than 50 percent of its power.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: You鈥檙e close to Stowe, a town renowned for its ski culture (and beer). Sadly, ski season and golf season don鈥檛 overlap. But don鈥檛 fret; during the warmer months, there is plenty of hiking, fly fishing, and climbing nearby. Do it on your own or if you want a guide, Spruce Peak Resort offers hiking and fly fishing adventures. If you鈥檙e into climbing, runs trips on the granite walls around the Stowe area, from top-roping routes suitable for beginners to multi-pitch cliffs that will please experienced trad climbers (from $250 per person).

Check flights to Stowe, Vermont

7. Bandon Dunes, Bandon, Oregon

Fees: From $50 for the par 3 courses

Bandon Dunes golf
A view of the Lodge at Bandon Dunes with the green on the 18th hole on the public Bandon Dunes Course in Bandon, Oregon (Photo: David Cannon/Getty)

has become one of the most coveted golf destinations in America, with seven public courses spread throughout the 2,525-acre coastal resort. All seven courses have earned Audubon International Sanctuary status, too, as the designers have kept Oregon鈥檚 coastal beauty and environmental harmony in mind throughout the process, from construction to management.

The course looks wild, thanks largely to the use of native plants and grasses, including the threatened silver phacelia, outside of the fairways, while for the turf on those mowed areas Bandon Dunes uses fescue, a type of grass that requires less fertilizer than others. And when fertilizer is applied, it鈥檚 organic and used sparingly. Roughly 85 percent of the resort鈥檚 energy is supplied by renewable resources, with more solar panels still to be installed throughout the property. The maintenance department has moved to electric-powered equipment.

Bandon Dunes
Some walking and wildlife viewing at Bandon Dunes, Oregon (Photo: David Phipps)

Most of the resort鈥檚 landscape holds native plants that require no irrigation, but with six courses, roughly 600 acres that need to be watered. The resort鈥檚 own wastewater-management system supplies non-potable gray water for the job, recycling roughly 50,000 gallons of water daily.

One of the courses, Bandon Preserve, puts net proceeds directly to local conservation projects in Oregon鈥檚 southern coast through a , which has helped restore salmon fisheries and funded mountain bike trails. Bandon Dunes is working towards the lofty goal of becoming a completely carbon neutral resort.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Bandon Dunes sits on Oregon鈥檚 southern coast, which is a multi-sport adventurer鈥檚 dream, with miles of singletrack and wild beaches punctuated by dramatic sea stacks. Go for a trail run at , where several miles of trail wind through a pine forest and access five miles of hard-packed beach.

The surfing is good too, with beach breaks found throughout this part of the coast. Head north for 25 miles to Coos Bay, where the bluffs of Yoakam Head hang over the breaks, which have something for all levels of surfers. Beginners should head to Bastendorff Beach for a wide, sandy-bottom break with a cool backdrop of rocky headlands. The water temperature is cold year round, but winter brings the most consistent waves, so in that case pack a thick wetsuit.

8. The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado

Fees: Starting at $110 for 18 holes

golf at the Broadmoor
Golfers play and walk on the golf course at The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs. with Cheyenne Mountain in the distance. Some holes have views of Pikes Peak, a well-known Colorado Fourteener. (Photo: Barry Winiker/Getty)

The a resort five miles south of Colorado Springs, is home to two of the most respected golf courses in the U.S., designed by legends Donald Ross and Robert Trent Jones and hosting marquee tournaments like multiple U.S. Amateurs, U.S. Women鈥檚 Opens, and U.S. Senior Opens. At 6,250 feet in elevation, the course was the highest in America when it first opened in 1918, and several holes feature views of Pikes Peak.

The place has become significantly more eco-friendly with age. Managers have replaced more than 50 acres of turf with native grasses and wildflowers, and use gray water to irrigate the fairways and greens. Mulching mowers return grass clippings back to the soil, and the property uses no pesticides Over the years the resort has added bird-nesting boxes and habitats for bees and butterflies. All of the carts are electric, and otherwise the place promotes walking and its caddy program. Resort chefs harvest honey from the property鈥檚 own hives, and source meat from the Wagyu beef raised on the ranch. Even the resort鈥檚 cooking grease is recycled into biodiesel.

The Broadmoor participates in one of the most heartwarming recycling programs I鈥檝e ever heard of: all of their spent tennis balls are donated to local senior-citizen facilities to be used on the ends of walkers and canes.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Colorado Springs offers so much to do. The 14,115-foot Pikes Peak, with trailheads six miles from town, has to be the most accessible fourteener in the U.S.; you can drive your car or take a train to the summit, but I say earn it by hiking the ($20-$37 parking fee, depending on day of week), a 13-mile one way trek that gains more than 7,000 feet on its way to the top. Don鈥檛 worry, you can take the down from the summit ($30). Or go explore the iconic red sandstone fins that rise from the center of Garden of the Gods Park. operates half and full day trips for all abilities (starting at $221).

9. Rising Sun Golf Course, Emigrant, Montana

Fee: Greens fees are included in the cost of your stay (one week minimum, and you must contact the for pricing).

golf Montana
Yes, really. This beautiful place exists in the Paradise Valley amid the Absaroka and Gallatin Mountains. (Photo: Courtesy Rising Sun)

It鈥檚 hard to beat Rising Sun鈥檚 location. The 18-hole course sits on the 17,000-acre Mountain Sky Ranch, within the aptly named Paradise Valley and with near-constant views of the surrounding Absaroka and Gallatin Mountains. This is the biggest splurge on this list, and for most, a once-in-a-lifetime situation at best, but the rest of us can dream, right?

Rising Sun is not an easy course to play, thanks to its remote location and the fact that tee times go only to guests of the ranch, but you couldn鈥檛 ask for a more beautiful setting, and the Rising Sun was the first course in Montana to be designated an Audubon International Cooperative Sanctuary. The course was built on a hayfield with an emphasis on maintaining as much natural habitat as possible, converting dry pastures to prairie grass, and maintaining native plant buffers along bodies of water.

Course managers also installed bird-nest boxes to encourage multi-species nesting, and have put in bat houses. They regularly consult with Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks on issues concerning elk and Yellowstone Cutthroat Trout. Aided by a dry, cold environment, course managers use no pesticides for the turf and greens, and they鈥檝e limited water usage by keeping the irrigated acreage to only 52 acres, almost a third of the average 18 hole course in America. Maintenance crews regularly monitor the quality of water in the course ponds as well as Big Creek.

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Mountain Sky Ranch is an adventure-minded 鈥渄ude ranch鈥 with a host of activities located on property. The resort also offers guided horseback tours in Yellowstone National Park, with an entrance just 30 miles south. But I say to pair a round of golf here with some fly fishing. If you鈥檙e new to the sport, Mountain Sky has a trout pond where pros can teach you the nuances of casting, but if you can hit the ground running, head to nearby Big Creek, which is loaded with cutthroat and rainbow trout. Or sign up for a of the iconic Yellowstone River, which offers opportunities for long, wide open casts that just might net a cutthroat or brown. (From $595)

golf Montana
Big sky, big dreams. The golf course is set on a dude ranch with much to do and easy access to Yellowstone National Park. (Photo: Courtesy Rising Sun)

Nearby 国产吃瓜黑料: Mountain Sky Ranch is an adventure-minded 鈥渄ude ranch鈥 with a host of activities located on property. The resort also offers guided horseback tours in Yellowstone National Park, with an entrance just 30 miles south. But I say to pair a round of golf here with some fly fishing. If you鈥檙e new to the sport, Mountain Sky has a trout pond where pros can teach you the nuances of casting, but if you can hit the ground running, head to nearby Big Creek, which is loaded with cutthroat and rainbow trout. Or sign up for a of the iconic Yellowstone River, which offers opportunities for long, wide open casts that just might net a cutthroat or brown (from $595).

Check flights to Bozeman, Montana

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist and an avid golfer who is dying to play every course on this list. Follow his golf shenanigans on Instagram at @the_amateur_golf. Graham recently wrote 鈥This Is What It鈥檚 Like to Live in Asheville After Hurricane Helene鈥 and answered some questions about it while standing in line at FEMA offices. He has also recently written 鈥9 Most Underrated National Parks for Incredible Fall Foliage,鈥 鈥8 Surf Towns Where You Can Learn the Sport and the Culture,鈥 and 鈥The 9 Most Fun 国产吃瓜黑料 Lodges in North America.鈥

Graham Averill plays golf outdoors
The author out on the golf course near his home in Asheville, North Carolina (Photo: Graham Averill Collection)

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The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic /adventure-travel/essays/into-the-thaw-jon-waterman-excerpt/ Tue, 22 Oct 2024 12:00:22 +0000 /?p=2684071 The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic

In an excerpt from his new book, 鈥業nto the Thaw,鈥 Jon Waterman vividly depicts one of his most painful expedition moments ever

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The Worst Kind of Type 2 Fun in the Arctic

More than 40 years ago, the then park ranger Jon Waterman took his first journey to Alaska鈥檚 Noatak River. Captivated by the profusion of wildlife, the rich habitat, and the unfamiliar landscape, he spent years kayaking, packrafting, skiing, dogsledding, and backpacking in Arctic North America鈥攐ften alone for weeks at a time. After three decades away from the Noatak, he returned with his 15-year-old son, Alistair, in 2021 to find a flooded river and a scarcity of the once abundant caribou. The Arctic had warmed nearly four times faster than the rest of the world.

The next year, 2022, Waterman took a last journey to document the changes. The following is excerpted and adapted from his prologue in Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder amid the Arctic Climate Crisis (Patagonia Books, November 12).

A former ranger in Rocky Mountain听and Denali national parks, Waterman is the author of 17 books, including Atlas of the National Parks (National Geographic Books), In the Shadow of Denali, Kayaking the Vermilion Sea, Running Dry, and Arctic Crossing. He has made five films about adventure and wild places.

Jon Waterman kayaking among icebergs in the arctic
Jon Waterman among icebergs at the end of his 2,200-mile journey across the Arctic in September 1999. (Photo: Jon Waterman Collection)

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The below is adapted from Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder amid the Arctic Climate Crisis.

A Certain Type of Fun, July 10-12, 2022

Noatak Headwaters
In eventually reaching the Noatak Headwaters and passing through different ecosystems, Waterman and Chris Korbulic, his partner on the 2022 journey, will see stands of fireweed, known to colonize areas recently burned in wildfires. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

My hands, thighs, and calves have repeatedly locked up in painful dehydration cramps, undoubtedly caused by our toil with leaden packs in eighty-degree heat up the steep streambed or its slippery, egg-shaped boulders. After my water bottle slid out of an outside pack pocket and disappeared amid one of several waist-deep stream fords or in thick alders yesterday, I carefully slide the bear spray can (looped in a sling around my shoulders) to the side so it doesn鈥檛 get knocked out of its pouch, an action I will come to regret. Now, to slake my thirst, I submerge my head in Kalulutok Creek like a water dog.

Kalulutok Creek would be called a river in most parts of the world. Here in Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, amid the largest span of legislated wilderness in the United States, it鈥檚 just a creek compared to the massive Noatak River that we鈥檙e bound for. But in my mind鈥攁fter we splash-walked packrafts and forded its depths at least 30 times yesterday鈥擪alulutok will always be an ice-cold, wild river.

Chris Korbulic surveys the Noatak headwaters valley in smoke and haze
Chris Korbulic surveys the Noatak headwaters valley, increasingly overgrown with shrubs and hazed by wildfire smoke; over 3 million acres burned in Alaska in 2022. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

It drains the Endicott and Schwatka Mountains, which are filled with the most spectacular granite and limestone spires of the entire Brooks Range. One valley to the east of us is sky-lined with sharp, flinty peaks called the Arrigetch, or 鈥渇ingers of the outstretched hand鈥 in I帽upiaq.

As the continent鈥檚 most northerly mountains, the sea-fossil-filled Brooks Range鈥攚ith more than a half-dozen time-worn peaks over 8,000 feet high鈥攊s seen on a map as the last curl of the Rocky Mountains before they stairstep into foothills and coastal plains along the Arctic Ocean. The Brooks Range stretches 200 miles south to north and 700 miles to the east, where it jabs into Canada. Although there are more than 400 named peaks, since the Brooks Range is remote and relatively untraveled, it鈥檚 rare that anyone bothers to climb these mountains. My river-slogger companion, Chris, and I will be exceptions.

Chris Korbulic and Jon Waterman fly into Brooks Range in bush plane
Chris Korbulic (front) and Jon Waterman fly into Walker Lake on the south side of the Brooks Range, in early July 2022. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

We carry a water filter, but it would be silly to use it. We鈥檙e higher and farther north than giardiasis-infected beavers and there is no sign of caribou. The creek is fed from the pure ice of shrunken glaciers above and ancient permafrost in the ground below. In what seems like prodigious heat for the Arctic, the taps here are all wide-open.

Inuit man and sled dogs
An Inuit man praises his qimmiq (Eskimo husky) on the sea ice in Elu Inlet Nunavut, Canada, in May 1999. The qimmiq has served for 4,500 years of travel across the Arctic but is now threatened with extinction by snowmachines. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

Thirty-nine years ago, I decided to learn all I could about life above the Arctic Circle. As a climber, I traded my worship of high mountains for the High Arctic. I felt that unlike the study of crevasse extrication and avalanche avoidance鈥攜ou couldn鈥檛 just read about the Arctic or sign up for courses. You have to go on immersive journeys and figure out how the interlocked parts of the natural world fit together. Along this path, acts of curiosity out on the land and the water can open an earned universe of wonders. But you must spend time in the villages, too, with the kindhearted people of the North to make sure you get it right. And you can鈥檛 call the Arctic 鈥渢he Far North鈥濃攊t is 鈥渉ome鈥 rather than 鈥渇ar鈥 to the many people who live there.

Jon Waterman, sleds, sled dog in Arctic
The author on the sea ice outside the village of Tuktoyaktuk, the Northwest Territories in April 1998, with his dog Elias, preparing to set out on a long solo journey across the Northwest Passage. (Photo: Jon Waterman Collection)

So, after twoscore of Arctic journeys, in the summer of 2022, I鈥檓 on one more trip. I could not be on such an ambitious trip without all the previous experiences. (The more I learn, it sometimes feels like the less I know about the Arctic.)

But this time the agenda is different. I hope to understand the climate crisis better.

Chris Korbulic and I are here to document it however we can. Since my first trip above the Arctic Circle in 1983, I have seen extraordinary changes in the landscape. Only three days underway and we鈥檝e already flown over a wildfire to access our Walker Lake drop-off point. And yesterday we trudged underneath several bizarre, tear-drop-shaped landslide thaw slumps鈥攁.k.a. thermokarsts鈥攃aused by the permafrost thaw.

packrafting in Gates of the Arctic National Park
Beneath multiple thermokarst landslides caused by permafrost thaw, the author and his friend tow packrafts up Kalulutok Creek in Gates of the Arctic National Park to avoid bushwhacking in the valley, now overgrown with brush. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

In much of Alaska, the Arctic Monitoring and Assessment Programme (AMAP) says that permafrost thaw from 2005 to 2010 has caused the ground to sink more than four inches, and in places to the north of us, twice that. The land collapses as the permafrost below it thaws, like logs pulled out from beneath a woodpile. AMAP believes this will amount to a 鈥渓arge-scale degradation of near-surface permafrost by the end of the twenty-first century.鈥 Roads and buildings and pipelines鈥攁long with hillsides, I帽upiat homes, forests, and even lakes鈥攚ill fall crazily aslant, or get sucked into the ground as if taken by an earthquake.

village of Kivalina, Alaska
The Alaskan village of Kivalina鈥攄oomed, like many I帽upiat villages, Waterman observes鈥攊s surrounded by the Chukchi Sea and the lagoon fed by the polluted Kivalina and Wulik Rivers. (Photo: Chris Korbulic)

On this remote wilderness trip, we don鈥檛 expect a picnic鈥攌nown as Type 1 Fun to modern-day adventurers. A journey across the thaw on foot and by packraft for 500-plus miles won鈥檛 resemble a backcountry ski trip or a long weekend backpack on Lower 48 trails. We have planned for Type 2 Fun: an ambitious expedition that will make us suffer and give us the potential to extend ourselves just enough that there will be hours, or even days, that won鈥檛 seem like fun until much later when we鈥檙e back home. Then our short-circuited memories will allow us to plan the next trip as if nothing went wrong on this one. An important part of wilderness mastery is to avoid Type 3 Fun: a wreckage of accidents, injuries, near-starvation, or rescue. We鈥檝e both been on Type 3 Fun trips that we鈥檇 rather forget.

Chris Korbulic kayaking in Arctic North
Chris Korbulic paddles on the vast Noatak River in the most recent expedition, two years ago. (Photo: Jon Waterman )

Today, to get Chris, a caffeine connoisseur, to stop, I simply utter, 鈥淐offee?鈥 His face lights up as he throws off his pack and pulls out the stove. I pull out the fuel bottle. Since Chris isn鈥檛 a conversational bon vivant, I鈥檝e learned not to ask too many questions, but a cup of coffee might stimulate a considerate comment or two about the weather. As I fire up the trusty MSR stove with a lighter, we crowd around and toast our hands over the hot windscreen as if it鈥檚 our humble campfire. We鈥檙e cold and wet with sweat and we shiver in the wind. But at least we鈥檙e out of the forest-fire smoke鈥攖his summer more than two million acres have burned in dried-out Alaska.

Chris Korbulic paddling on Noatak River
Chris Korbulic is able to ditch his giant pack inside the packraft here on the Noatak River headwaters alongside Tupik Creek (Photo: Jon Waterman)

Today, with the all-day uphill climb and inevitable back-and-forth route decisions through the gorge ahead, we鈥檒l be lucky to trudge even five miles to the lake below the pass. Why, I ask myself, as Chris puts on his pack and shifts into high gear, could we not have simply flown into the headwaters of the Noatak River instead of crossing the Brooks Range to get here? I heave on my pack and wonder how I鈥檒l catch Chris, already far ahead.

Shards of caribou bones and antlers lie on the tundra as ghostly business cards of a bygone migration, greened with mold, and minutely chiseled and mined for calcium by tiny vole teeth. We kick steps across a snowfield, then work our way down a steep, multicolored boulderfield, whorled red and peppered with white quartz unlike any rocks I鈥檝e seen before. As rain shakes out of the sky like Parmesan cheese from a can, we weave in and out of leafy alder thickets while I examine yet another fresh pile of grizzly feces. I stop to pick apart the scat and thumb through stems and leaves and root pieces. This griz appears to be on a vegetarian diet.

鈥淗ey, bear!鈥 We yell the old cautionary refrain again and again until we鈥檙e hoarse. I hold tight to the pepper spray looped over my shoulder to keep it from grabby alder branches.

grizzly bear among flowers
A male grizzly (brown bear) grazes like a cow amid willow and fireweed. Several thousand grizzlies roam throughout Alaska. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

A half mile farther the route dead-ends so we鈥檙e forced to descend into the gorge again. With Chris 20 yards behind, I plunge step down through a near-vertical slope of alders and play Tarzan for my descent as I hang onto a flexible yet stout branch, and swing down a short cliff into another alder thicket. A branch whacks me in the chest and knocks off the pepper-spray safety plug. When I swing onto the ground, I get caught on another branch that depresses the trigger in an abrupt explosion that shoots straight out from my chest in a surreal orange cloud. Instinctively I hold my breath and close my eyes and continue to shimmy downward, but I know I鈥檓 covered in red-hot pepper spray.

When I run out of breath, I squint, keep my mouth closed, breathe carefully through my nose, and scurry out of the orange capsaicin cloud. Down in a boulderfield that pulses with a stream, I open my mouth, take a deep breath, and yell to Chris that I鈥檓 O.K. as I strip off my shirt and try to wring it out in the stream. I tie the contaminated shirt on the outside of my pack and put on a sweater. My hands prickle with pepper.

Then we鈥檙e off again. As we clamber up steep scree to exit the gorge, my lips, nasal passages, forehead, and thighs burn from the pepper. The pepper spray spreads from my thighs to my crotch like a troop of red ants, but I can hardly remove my pants amid the incoming storm clouds and wind. With the last of the alders below us, we enter the alpine world above the tree line. By the time we reach the lake, the drizzle has become a steady rain. I鈥檓 nauseous and overheated underneath my rain jacket with the red pepper spray that I wish I had saved for an aggressive bear instead of a self-douche. Atop wet tundra that feels like a sponge underfoot, we pitch the Megamid tent with a paddle lashed to a ski pole and guy out the corners with four of the several million surrounding boulders left by the reduction of tectonic litter.

lake and wildflowers seen from the pass above the Noatak headwaters
Boykinia, one of many protein-rich plants that bears eat, bloom alongside the lake camp on the pass above the Noatak headwaters. (Photo: Jon Waterman)

I fire up the stove and boil the water, and we inhale four portions of freeze-dried pasta inside the tent. We depart from wilderness bear decorum to cook outside and away from the tent because it鈥檚 cold and we鈥檙e tired. Chris immediately heads out with his camera. His eyes are watery from just being within several feet of me.

I鈥檝e been reduced like this before鈥攚ounded and exhausted and temporarily knocked off my game. So, I tell myself that this too will pass, that I鈥檒l get in gear and regain my mojo. That maybe, I can eventually get my shy partner to loosen up and talk. That we will discover an extraordinary new world鈥攖he headwaters of the Noatak River鈥攆rom up on the pass in the morning. And that I will find a way to withstand my transformation into a spicy human burrito.

Snow feels likely tonight. It’s mid-July, yet winter has slid in like a glacier over the Kalulutok Valley.

I am too brain-dead to write in my journal, too physically wiped out and overheated in the wrong places to even think of a simple jaunt through the flowers to see the view that awaits us. I pull down my orange-stained pants and red underwear, grab a cup filled with ice water. I try not to moan as I put in my extra-hot penis and let it go numb.

Type 2 Fun for sure.

Into the Thaw book jacket
Into the Thaw: Witnessing Wonder Amid the Arctic Climate Crisis (Patagonia Books)

Jon Waterman lives in Carbondale, Colorado. An all-round adventurer, he has climbed the famous Cassin Ridge on Denali in winter; soloed the Northwest Passage; sailed to Hawaii picking up microplastics; dogsledded into and up Canada鈥檚 Mount Logan; and run the Colorado River 1,450 miles from source to sea. He is a recipient of the National Endowment for the Arts Literature Fellowship and three grants from the National Geographic Society Expeditions Council. Into the Thaw is available to purchase from Patagonia Books and for pre-order on Amazon for November 19.

Jon Waterman., author, conservationist
The author, Jon Waterman, in the field (Photo: Chris Korbulic )

For more by this author:

A Former National Park Ranger Reveals His Favorite Wild Places in the U.S.

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11 Most Beautiful Hot-Springs Resorts in the U.S. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/best-hot-springs-resorts-us/ Sun, 06 Oct 2024 14:45:33 +0000 /?p=2683408 11 Most Beautiful Hot-Springs Resorts in the U.S.

It鈥檚 a tough job, but I鈥檝e been testing these warm-soak places for many years. Here are my all-time favorites.

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11 Most Beautiful Hot-Springs Resorts in the U.S.

As chilly weather approaches and the leaves turn, it鈥檚 time to swap out staying in your favorite camping tent in favor of a hot-spring resort or cabin.

As a self-proclaimed hot-springs addict, I鈥檝e been on the prowl for seven years for the most gorgeous, steamy soaking pools across the globe. Having lived in the geothermal meccas of California and Colorado for years, I鈥檝e experienced the good, the bad, and the muddy when it comes to naturally fed soaking ponds. I鈥檝e trekked to remote warm springs in the Sierra Nevada and the Rocky Mountains, in Iceland and even Antarctica, and stripped down to splash into every single one of 鈥檈m.

Even though I love a solid hike-in hot spring, my favorite way to enjoy geothermally heated pools is on a splurge-worthy weekend trip to a lodge or a resort with private cabins, where I can soothe my tired muscles in peace, without crawling into a sleeping bag in a van or tent afterwards. Here are a few of my all-time favorite U.S. hot-springs resorts.

If you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. This supports our mission to get more people active and outside.听Learn more.

1. Ojo Caliente, New Mexico

Nearest town: Taos
Prices from: $239 for rooms per night, $40 for camping

woman in pool at retreat in Ojo Caliente
The adobe-style Ojo Caliente resort is close to Georgia O’Keeffe country and beautiful hiking. (Photo: Courtesy Ojo Spa Resorts)

Tucked away between Santa Fe and Taos sits the vibrant , a gaggle of adobe-style suites, retro cottages, and a historic hotel, surrounded by hiking paths, bike trails, and loads of soaking ponds.

The resort at Ojo Caliente opened in 1868, and it鈥檚 been revered as a healing sanctuary ever since, offering mineral pools rich with soda, lithium, and iron. These minerals are said to aid digestion, boost moods, and bolster your immune system, respectively. The resort鈥檚 high-end spa offers a huge variety of treatments, from sound healing to blue-corn-and-prickly-pear-sea-salt scrubs. But this retreat is not all soaking and spa time鈥搃n between baths, you can treat yourself to a yoga class, hike the or chow down on piping-hot tortilla soup and chicken mole at the on-site Artesian Restaurant and Wine Bar.

Ojo Caliente near Taos
Ojo, as locals refer to it, is 41 miles from Taos and 47 miles from Santa Fe. The cottonwoods are spectacular in fall. (Photo: Courtesy Ojo Spa Resorts)

2. Esalen Institute, California

Nearest town: Big Sur
Prices from: $540 (for three days/two nights)

Esalen Institute
The Esalen Institute, an alternative-education and retreat center in Big Sur, California, offers soaking pools high above the Pacific Ocean. The author also hiked in one of the area’s state parks while here. (Photo: Kodiak Greenwood)

has long been a haven for holistic hippies and New Age types looking to embark on week-long or weekend escapes filled with meditation, clean eating, therapeutic workshops, and oceanfront hot-springs access.When I stayed at Esalen a few years ago, I skipped the institute鈥檚 famed expert-led workshops and booked a self-guided weekend exploration with my partner, so that we鈥檇 have ample free time.

We still attended a wide variety of open classes, from ecstatic dance to yoga to the study of native plant botanicals. This approach allowed us tons of time to hike among the coastal redwoods at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and spend our nights soaking in the property鈥檚 outstanding Slate Hot Springs, which overlook the wild Pacific Ocean.

Esalen Institute as shown along the Big Sur coast
Looking south from Esalen, in Big Sur. The non-profit was founded in 1962 to explore human potential in a restorative environment. (Photo: Kodiak Greenwood)

3. Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort, Colorado

Nearest town: Nathrop
Prices from: $243 a night

Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort
Mount Princeton Hot Springs, eight miles from Buena Vista, Colorado, offers pools, with nearby hiking, fishing, rafting, nordic skiing, and golf. About 35 miles away, the town of Leadville claims the country’s highest highest golf course, at 9,680 feet. (Photo: Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort)

Unlike many hot-springs retreats, which brand themselves as adults-only relaxation hubs, offers family-friendly pools, cabins, and lodge rooms, with a seasonal waterslide and an infinity pool overlooking the sky-high Mount Princeton and Mount Antero.

Guests can choose between minimalist lodge rooms, log cabins, and motel-style cliffside stays with epic mountain views. I heartily recommend the luxe Creekside Suites, complete with kitchenettes, balconies, and fireplaces, where my partner and I stayed this fall for a hike-and-soak couples鈥 retreat. Not only are the suites close to the natural-stone warm pools along Chalk Creek, they鈥檙e tucked back behind the main lodge and pools for maximum serenity. When you aren鈥檛 getting pruney fingers in the springs, indulge in a CBD massage (my favorite treatment) at the spa or a Rocky Mountain elk filet at the on-site restaurant.

Mount Princeton Hot Springs resort, Nathrop, Colorado
Some of the resort lodging is on the banks of Chalk Creek, which offers the natural-stone warm pools. (Photo: Lisa Seaman)

Check Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort Availability

4. Quinn’s Hot Springs Resort, Montana

Nearest town: Paradise
Prices from: $269 a night

large outdoor hot springs in Montana
Summer at Quinn’s Hot Springs Resort, near Paradise, Montana. You can hike in the area, and fish and paddleboard in the adjacent river. (Photo: Noah Couser Photography)

Situated a mere hour from the outdoorsy mecca of Missoula, serves up elevated, mountain-chic lodge rooms, cozy riverfront cabins, and naturally fed springs with water temperatures up to 106 degrees, which is steamier than your average hot tub.

The soaking pools at Quinn鈥檚 are open year-round and offer vistas of forested hillsides, which, in winter months, are topped with snow. The site鈥檚 Canyon Cabins boast the most direct access to the springs, but its River View Cabins, set on the banks of the Clark Fork, offer outstanding views. When you鈥檙e not taking a dip or casting a line for native westslope cutthroat trout, enjoy hearty Americana fare like bison carpaccio and wild-game meatloaf at Harwood House Restaurant, which won a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2024.

Quinn Hot Springs
The resort is set on the banks of the Clark Fork and open year-round, in winter offering steamy snow-fringed pools. (Photo: Courtesy Noah Couser Photography)

5. Breitenbush Hot Springs, Oregon

Nearest town: Detroit
Prices from: $112 for camping / $117 for rooms

Breitenbush Hot Springs, Oregon
Two hours from Portland, Breitenbush Hot Springs is a co-op and spiritual retreat that has been rebuilt in phases following the devastating wildfires of 2020. (Photo: Courtesy Breitenbush Hot Springs)

Following a devastating fire back in 2020, Oregon鈥檚 is back in action, with three newly built Grove Rooms, plus mushroom yurts, glamping tents, and vehicle-friendly campsites.

This off-grid, clothing-optional sanctuary is a mere two-hour drive from Portland and is open year-round. It鈥檚 a designated substance- and device-free space, so travelers can unwind and unplug while connecting with community members. Natural rock-bottom hot-spring pools and clawfoot tubs adorn the forested property, and organic vegetarian meals can be added onto any booking, including day passes.

Not keen on soaking all afternoon? Spend some time cruising the West Cascades Scenic Byway or hike the .

6. Chena Hot Springs Resort, Alaska

Nearest town: Fairbanks
Prices from: $20 for camping / $200 for rooms a night

Chena Hot Springs, Alaskan interior
The mineral-laced Chena Hot Springs are about 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks, Alaska. The drive passes through the Chena River State Recreation Area, which offers hiking, backpacking, climbing, fishing, camping, hunting, and canoeing. (Photo: Cavan Images/Getty)

Want to kick back in a remote hot spring while the green tendrils of the Northern Lights dance above your head? At , a retreat center in Alaska鈥檚 rugged interior, this far-flung dream can become a reality.

Choose between the hotel-style Moose Lodge Rooms, the cozy budget-friendly Fox Rooms, woodsy cabins, camping yurts, and RV-friendly campsites, then relax. With an average water temperature of 106 degrees, this soaking site is prime for year-round visitors, no matter how gnarly the Alaska weather gets. Aromatherapy and hot stone massages are also available in an adorable cabin near the main Pool House. Spend your days cuddling sled-dog puppies, touring the ice museum, or dog sledding, and when the sun sets, bundle up for an .

Check Chena Hot Springs Resort Availability

7. Avalanche Ranch Cabins and Hot Springs, Colorado

Nearest town: Carbondale
Prices from: $135 a night

pools and a rainbow at Avalanche Ranch, Redstone, Colorado
The three tiered pools of Avalanche Ranch, a retreat in the Crystal River Valley, Redstone, Western Colorado. You can soak and also hike, fish, bike, and go rafting or cross-country skiing here. (Photo: Courtesy Avalanche Ranch)

With day pass rates of $32 and lodging starting at $135, the clear, uncrowded pools of have become a Colorado favorite, with overnight guests often having to book four to six months out.

I first heard about Avalanche Ranch back in 2019, when a canceled flight out of Aspen gave me a day to kill near Carbondale. Lucky me. Because it was a frigid weekday, I was able to make a last-minute day reservation and warm my post-ski bones with a view of snowy Mount Sopris and its rounded twin summits. It was as close to a perfect day in the mountains as you can imagine, but next time I head to Avalanche Ranch, I鈥檒l spend a little extra to bed down in one of the property鈥檚 colorful, pet-friendly log cabins. Overnight guests can use the springs 24 hours a day; day passes allow four-hour access from 9:00 A.M. to 1:00 P.M. or 1:00 to 5:00 P.M. (The pool closes Wednesdays for cleaning.)

Penny Hot Springs, Redstone, Colorado
Bonus! Only 1.3 miles from Avalanche Ranch are the Penny Hot Springs, occurring naturally in the Crystal River. (Photo: Campbell Habel)

8. Burgdorf Hot Springs, Idaho

Nearest town: McCall
Prices from: $150 a night

Burgdorft Hot Springs, Idaho
The Burgdorf Hot Springs retreat, near McCall, Idaho, offers basic amenities and asks visitors to turn off electronic devices. Set in the Payette National Forest, the place also offers access to a plethora of hiking, biking, and horseback riding. (Photo: Courtesy Burgdorf Hot Springs)

Accessible by regular vehicles all summer long and by snowmobile in the winter months, and its historic cabins look more like a rustic ghost town than a real-deal soaking resort. However, this off-grid haven is a slice of paradise for those who don鈥檛 mind booking a cottage without electricity and running water, and are willing to bring their own bedding.

Intrepid wanderers will be rewarded with steaming pools of up to 113 degrees, with gravel bottoms and split log sides. Nestled in the conifer-dense Payette National Forest, Burgdorf is a hiker鈥檚 heaven, with awesome nearby hiking trails like Deep Lake, Ruby Meadows and Josephine Lake (don鈥檛 forget the bear spray). Just be sure to return to the springs in time for a dreamy, post-trek sunset soak.

9. Hot Springs Resort and Spa, North Carolina

Nearest town: Hot Springs
Prices from: $45

*Hot Springs Resort and Spa was damaged in recent flooding resulting from Hurricane Helene. Please see this gofundme page. Check back in early 2025 if you plan to visit and support this small town.

Though the East Coast isn鈥檛 revered for its hot springs, a handful of all-natural warm springs have kept travelers coming back for decades. North Carolina鈥檚 is one of the rare destinations where tent campers and RVers can enjoy both nature and the option to book a in a modern, jetted hot tub. The place has also become a favorite stopover for thru-hikers coming off the Appalachian Trail.

Campers can choose from among a myriad of options, which range from primitive tent sites to spacious group sites on the banks of the French Broad River. Not so into roughing it? Check out the resort鈥檚 deluxe cabins, complete with kitchenettes.

10. The Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia

Nearest town: Berkeley Springs
Prices from: $130 a night

the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia
The Country Inn of Berkeley Springs was in colonial times one of this country’s first warm-spring wellness retreats. Its spa, offering mineral baths, is the round building with the green roof in the upper right. (Photo: Courtesy The Country Inn)

First opened in 1933, this historic colonial-style hotel in the eastern panhandle of West Virginia boasts 70 guest rooms and an that offers everything from mineral baths to sugar scrubs and hot-stone massages.

The tiny hamlet of Berkeley Springs, less than two hours from Baltimore and Washington, D.C., is revered as one of the nation鈥檚 first warm-spring wellness retreats, with famous patrons like George Washington frequenting the area. Rooms at are adorned in elegant furnishings, but also provide modern amenities, like flatscreen TVs, mini-fridges, and high-speed Wi-Fi. Don鈥檛 miss live music at the Inn鈥檚 restaurant on Saturday nights.

Check Country Inn of Berkeley Springs Availability

11. The Gideon Putnam, New York

Nearest town: Saratoga Springs
Prices from: $229 a night

entry to the colonial style Gideon Putnam hotel in autumn colors
The Gideon Putnam, which contains the Roosevelt Baths and Spa, is in the historic wellness haven of Saratoga Springs, New York, and part of a state park. (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North)

This elegant New York retreat is set a short 35-minute drive from Albany, in the centuries-old wellness haven of Saratoga Springs, which was once visited by the likes of Oscar Wilde and Susan B. Anthony. Today, with updated East Coast colonial-style rooms, some of which are pet-friendly, guests can kick up their feet with modern conveniences like air conditioning, HDTVs, and Wi-Fi.

What truly sets , though, is that it鈥檚 the only hotel located inside Saratoga Spa State Park. This National Historic Landmark features two different golf courses, a large swimming-pool complex, and miles of nature trails that transform into a cross-country ski paradise in winter. Be sure to check out the Gideon Putnam鈥檚 luxurious Roosevelt Baths and Spa, named in honor of President Franklin D. Roosevelt for his role in helping preserve the Saratoga Springs area, and book yourself a mineral bath and a Muscadine Moonshine Sea Salt Scrub while you鈥檙e at it.

Gideon Putnam, Saratoga State Park, New York
In the spa, take a private bath in the area’s famous mineral water. While the water is cold when drawn from the ground, the spa adds hot water. Gideon Putnam is located in Saratoga Spa State Park. (Photo: Courtesy Delaware North)

Check Gideon Putnam Availability

Emily Pennington is a national-parks expert and self-proclaimed hot-springs addict who鈥檚 also a longtime contributor to 国产吃瓜黑料. To date, she鈥檚 visited every U.S. national park and hiked on all seven continents. Her book, Feral, Losing My Way and Finding Myself in America鈥檚 National Parks, was published in 2023. When she鈥檚 not frantically typing at her keyboard, you can find her exploring every hot spring known to humanity in her new home state of Colorado.

woman in tub at Mystic Hot Springs, Monroe, Utah.
The author enjoys Mystic Hot Springs, in Monroe, Utah. (Photo: Emily Pennington)

For more by this author, see:

I Visited Every U.S. National Park. My Favorite Might Surprise You.

The Best New Hotels with Easy Access to U.S. National Parks

These 10 National Parks Will Have Timed-Entry Reservations This Year

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I Stayed at This Coast Guard Station in the Middle of the Ocean. So Can You. /adventure-travel/destinations/north-america/frying-pan-tower-vacation-rental/ Wed, 11 Sep 2024 10:00:23 +0000 /?p=2681307 I Stayed at This Coast Guard Station in the Middle of the Ocean. So Can You.

The Frying Pan Tower is 32 miles offshore, way the heck up in the air, and the coolest vacation rental on earth

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I Stayed at This Coast Guard Station in the Middle of the Ocean. So Can You.

Don鈥檛 worry about the sharks. They鈥檙e large, yes, but they鈥檙e sand-tigers, which are relatively docile compared to other species in the water. It鈥檚 the barracudas you might consider. From where I鈥檓 standing, on the edge of a light tower in the middle of the ocean, I can see dozens of them floating around the structure, waiting for a snack.

鈥淭hey have a mouthful of K-9-like incisors. Creepy fish,鈥 says Dave Wood, one of the owners of the off the coast of Wilmington, North Carolina. 鈥淭hey typically leave people alone, but don鈥檛 wear anything shiny into the water. It gets them going.鈥

Not that I鈥檓 planning on falling in, but when you鈥檙e 32 miles out in the middle of the ocean, perched on top of a 60-year-old light tower, watching a bunch of predators swimming below, you wonder.

This is definitely the most adventurous and remote place I’ve ever stayed.

What Is the Frying Pan Tower?

light in old lighthouse, North Carolina coast
The Frying Pan Tower is 32 miles off the coast of North Carolina, with no land in site. A newly installed light reassures boaters in the area.听(Photo: Graham Averill)

The Frying Pan Tower is a decommissioned Coast Guard light station built on the tip of Frying Pan Shoals, an unusually shallow stretch of water running for 30 miles from the tower west to the Barrier Islands along the coast. Between the 1600s to the mid 1900s, hundreds of ships wrecked on the shoals鈥攌nown as the Graveyard of the Atlantic鈥攁nd the lighthouse was built in 1964 by the U.S. government to help keep mariners safe.

The building was decommissioned in the early 1990s when sailors started using GPS to navigate around dangerous obstacles. Frying Pan sat empty until 2010, when Richard Neal, fresh off a corporate job and looking for a project, purchased it in a government auction for $85,000. Since then, Neal has been working tirelessly to restore the structure, passing ownership on to 10 investors and taking over as the caretaker and head of a non-profit, FPTower Inc., tasked with keeping the tower from falling into the ocean.

sign for offshore lighthouse, North Carolina
The original signage for the lighthouse remains. Well, almost.听 (Photo: Graham Averill)

鈥淔rying Pan can still help keep mariners safe. It鈥檚 the only structure out here,鈥 Neal says. Various things can go wrong for ships out at sea, from systems failures to people getting injured. 鈥淎nd it鈥檚 a resource for scientific research. We鈥檝e had marine biologists out here, NASA, NOAA, people from MIT. Frying Pan can be a point to collect wave data, hurricane data, shark data鈥t still has value.鈥

The 国产吃瓜黑料s Are Endless at the Frying Pan

man fishing from lighthouse
Jason Guyot, one of the tower’s owners, fishes off the side. (Photo: Graham Averill)

It鈥檚 also one hell of a basecamp for adventure. Imagine all the benefits of ocean-front property, but put that property in the middle of the sea without any neighbors (or, granted, amenities like grocery stores). Frying Pan sits in only 55 feet of water. On a clear day, you can see the coral on the sandy floor from the catwalk that wraps around the living quarters.

These are ideal conditions for scuba, snorkeling, and free diving. Anglers can drop a line off the edge of the tower and pull up grouper and cobia for dinner. Several times during my two-day visit, I stood mesmerized on the edge of the catwalk watching sharks rise to inspect the bait we cast into the water.


lighthouse tower in ocean at night
The tower at night, with primo stargazing. An American flag flies daily and, shredded from wind, is replaced monthly.听(Photo: Graham Averill)

If you get bored with your immediate surroundings, you can explore the Greg Mickey, a fishing vessel about 1,000 yards north that was sunk in 2007 to become an artificial reef in honor of a fallen diver. Or take a 20-minute boat ride to the Gulf Stream for deep-sea fishing for wahoo and tuna.

鈥淚 would pass by this tower when I was a kid on small boats, and it was always a comfort to see, because you鈥檙e so far away from land,鈥 says Jason Guyot, an owner of Frying Pan who grew up fishing the area with his dad. 鈥淚t鈥檚 nice to know there鈥檚 something out here if things go bad.鈥

boat below lighthouse
A 27-foot fishing boat ferried the author to and from the tower. The trip there was in rough seas but all was calm for the cruise out. (Photo: Graham Averill)

And the view? Climb to the very top of the structure, 135 feet above the surface of the water where the actual Coast Guard light stands, and you see ocean. Flat and blue and all around you without a spec of land in sight. As far as vacation real estate goes, it鈥檚 one of a kind.

Staying on the Frying Pan

Originally intended to house a crew of 17 Coast Guard personnel, Frying Pan looks like an oil platform. The 5,000-square-foot living space boasts eight bedrooms, a commercial-grade kitchen, two bathrooms, and even an entertainment room with a pool table. A stainless-steel catwalk hangs outside the main floor of the tower, while a helicopter pad occupies the top deck. The actual lighthouse stretches out from that pad, standing 135 feet above the water.

helicopter landing on deck at lighthouse
The helicopter deck. The tower is powered by solar.听(Photo: Graham Averill)

While most lighthouses are located on land, the Coast Guard built seven of these offshore towers, modeled after oil platforms, in the 1960s for added safety. Three of those original towers have been dismantled because of their deteriorating structures; another was destroyed in a storm. The three remaining towers were all scheduled for dismantling until private owners stepped in to purchase them.

According to Neal, Frying Pan is in the best shape of the existing structures, but it still needs constant maintenance. There鈥檚 a small movement of private citizens working to preserve lighthouses in this country, and Neal is in the thick of it.

Frying Pan Tower
Olivia Johnson, a volunteer and family member of a tower owner, is lowered into the water for some freediving. (Photo: Courtesy FPTower Inc.)

When Neal took over Frying Pan nearly 15 years ago, it had been abandoned for decades. The windows were broken, bullets were embedded in the walls from vandals, it had no power, there were holes in the floors, and rust was eating away at much of the exterior structure.

Restoring the Frying Pan

Neal spends every other week on the tower, working through various projects, while others pop out as often as they can. The renovation project has attracted an interesting mix of investors, all of whom are DIY advocates. They come out together to weld, re-wire, re-build, and generally figure out how to maintain the building. They each bring something different to the situation. One is a helicopter pilot, another a retired contractor. Others are divers and anglers and carpenters, providing fish for the kitchen and practical skills for the restoration.

workshop in a lighthouse
The workshop, where the braces for the solar panels are being created. (Photo: Graham Averill)

Technically, Frying Pan is in international waters, so the owners could turn the tower into anything they want鈥揳 casino, a bordello, even its own sovereign nation. But they just want to make sure Frying Pan continues to be a resource to the maritime and scientific communities.

The biggest single room is the workshop, loaded with metal cutting-band saws, welding torches, cranes, chains, power cords, two wave runners on racks, massive diesel generators, canisters of oil and soy bean oil. Neal and his cohorts have replaced the windows, installed air conditioning, reconfigured the bedrooms to handle paying guests, and renovated the bathrooms. Neal estimates he鈥檚 put $300,000 of his own money into the tower, and it likely needs another $1 to $2 million more to be fully restored.

The largest hurdle in that restoration work is also Frying Pan鈥檚 greatest appeal: its location. It鈥檚 remote. For my trip, I take a 2.5-hour ride on a 27-foot fishing boat in rough seas and spend the majority of the time trying not to vomit. Supplies need to be either shipped in by boat or flown in by helicopter, neither of which is cheap. This means that Neal and his cohorts end up improvising a lot on site.

man repairing lighthouse
Richard Neal takes a break from welding to enjoy the view. (Photo: Graham Averill)

鈥淚 can鈥檛 just run to Home Depot. If I need something, I鈥檓 probably going to make it,鈥 Neal says. 鈥淚f I can鈥檛 make it myself, I try to find smart people who can.鈥

When I reach the tower, Neal and the owners are fabricating braces to hang on the side of the tower to support a row of solar panels, welding together custom-fit stainless-steel tubes. Neal stands on top of a six-foot-tall ladder, set on the edge of the catwalk, roughly 100 feet above the ocean, with a welding torch in his hand to burn a hole into the top of the exterior wall to fit a bracket that will eventually hold the brace for the solar panels.

鈥淚 love this stuff,鈥 Neal says, hanging precariously above the ocean with a lit torch in his hand.

golf clubs inside the Frying Pan Tower
As a visitor, you can hit biodegradable golf balls full of fish food into the sea. (Photo: Graham Averill)

While I鈥檓 on site, he works from sunup to sundown, tackling one task after another, the half-dozen other owners on the tower at the time working right alongside him. Most of the owners started out as working volunteers, spending a few days on Frying Pan scraping rust or putting down carpet, and fell in love with the property and the challenge of figuring out the solution to the next problem.

Later in the day, Neal and a volunteer will scuba dive below the tower to replace the that stream a live feed of the bottom of the ocean to . After the solar panels are in place, the team will replace some of the exterior doors that are rotting through. Eventually, they鈥檒l have to address some of the structural supports beneath the living quarters that are reaching the end of their shelf life. It all costs money, which is where guests play a part.

man lowered from a lighthouse to scuba dive
Patrick Hoffman is lowered by hoist for a dive to retrieve and replace a malfunctioning underwater camera. (Photo: Graham Averill)

How to Visit the Frying Pan

Frying Pan Tower hosts visitors every other week throughout the year, with the proceeds going straight back into restoration. Guests can sign up for a ($900), where they鈥檒l spend most of their time working alongside Neal, welding or cleaning or rewiring. Or they can sign up for an ($1,950) and spend their time diving or fishing or just soaking up the view. When I was there, a volunteer was cooking and the owners brought food, but on most trips you would bring food and cook it yourself.

(Photo: Courtesy Gaia GPS)

Most people who find themselves on Frying Pan are infatuated with the open sea. They鈥檙e divers and snorkelers, anglers casting off the sides of the tower or taking quick trips to the Gulf Stream. The tower has also seen cliff jumpers and free divers, scientists and Boy Scout troops.

The potential for adventure is only limited by your imagination. Jason Guyot dreams about bringing a kitesurfing rig to the tower and exploring the surrounding seascape. I want to come back with a paddleboard and snorkeling gear. I鈥檇 also love to bring my wife and kids; they鈥檇 have a blast snorkeling at the base of the tower and watching the sharks from above.

Frying Pan Tower
A guest room at the Frying Pan听(Photo: Courtesy FPTower Inc.)

The Stargazing Is Incredible

The night sky is the darkest I鈥檝e ever seen. Not a single light competes for the attention of the stars in any direction on the horizon. Our group of owners and volunteers gravitates to the helicopter pad after the sun sets, and settles in to watch the sky above for shooting stars. The Milky Way is a broad white paint stroke across the darkness.

man grills steak on lighthouse
Jason Guyot grills steaks on the helicopter pad, in a prime sunset-viewing position. (Photo: Graham Averill)

I don鈥檛 go in the water during my brief stay at Frying Pan, but I do help with restorations when I can, hit biodegradable golf balls filled with fish food into the sea below, cast for fish, and generally try to grasp the nuances of life in the middle of the ocean. This is the most isolated I鈥檝e ever been in my entire life. The nearest Starbucks is more than 40 miles due west. If something goes wrong, it would be hours before help arrives.

That sort of isolation makes a lot of people anxious. But for others, it鈥檚 relaxing. All of the distractions of life on the mainland are gone. Your priorities shrink. There is only the task at hand, whether it鈥檚 fishing or hanging a solar panel, food, and rest.

sunset and a cold beer on the water
Sunset from the tower and a cold drink, too (Photo: Graham Averill)

For dinner, we fire up a grill on the helicopter pad. Jason Guyot, who owns car dealerships and runs a real-estate business on land, is constantly in motion, cooking steaks brought in from a farm in eastern Carolina. He turns the meat slowly, looks around and says, 鈥淚 wonder what the rest of the world is doing right now?鈥

Graham Averill is 国产吃瓜黑料 magazine鈥檚 national parks columnist. His time on Frying Pan was brief, but he鈥檒l always remember the brightness of the Milky Way above and the sight of sharks feeding below.

man on top of lighthouse
The author, Graham Averill, 135 feet up on the high point of the tower. (Photo: Graham Averill)

For more by this author, see:

9 Beautiful Mountain Towns in the Southeast

The 10 Best Bike Towns in America, Ranked

8 Surf Towns Where You Can Learn the Sport and the Culture

 

The post I Stayed at This Coast Guard Station in the Middle of the Ocean. So Can You. appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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