When it comes to carrying gear while biking, there’s lots of options and lots of factors to consider. So much depends on whether you鈥檙e riding a hot lap, an all-day epic, if you have in-frame storage, or if you鈥檙e just riding gravel with some single-track connections. Our testers have done the leg work (pun intended)鈥攂iking up and down the West Coast on mountain bikes, across the Cascades on gravel bikes, embarking on multi-day adventures in the heat of the Utah high desert鈥攖o find the best solutions for your hip pack, riding pack/vest, and frame bag needs.

At a Glance

• Best On-Bike Storage:
• Best High-Capacity MTB Pack:
• Best Vest-Style Riding Pack:
• Best Hip Pack:
• Editor’s Favorite:
• How We Test
• Meet Our Lead Testers

Best On-Bike Storage

Mission Workshop On-Bike Storage System

Mission Workshop On-Bike Storage System

Pros and Cons
鈯� Easy to attach to bicycle frame
鈯� Easy access
鈯� Weather-resistant
鈯� Sold as a bundle or separately
鈯� Made in the USA
鈯� Universal size may not fit all frames
鈯� Expensive

Over the years, I have tried a variety of on-bike storage bags for both daily use and multi-day bike pack trips. My needs (in order of priority) are: durability, ease of access while riding, resistance to elements, and style. The on-bike storage system designed by Mission Workshop (Toro Handlebar Bag, Mission Saddle Bag, and Slice Frame Bag) meets all these criteria, including style. All three bags feature the X-PAC fabric (nylon face fabric with strategic fiber reinforcement, internal film, and backing taffeta), which is durable, water-resistant, and cleans up easily. The zippers were designed for ready access while pedaling, thanks to frame placement and wide zipper pulls, and the bags fit securely on most gravel and mountain bikes with no noticeable frame rubbing or wear. The bags have ample capacity for snacks, tools, phone, extra gloves, a light shell, and a spare tube.

Overall, I loved this system approach and was impressed with the quality and design. I may not need all three bags for every one of my gravel or dirt adventures, but I loved the ability to tailor my cargo carrying needs based on location, length of ride, and weather.

Best High-Capacity MTB Pack

CamelBak HAWG 20

Total Capacity: 20 L (3 L Bladder)
Weight: 1190 g

Pros and Cons
鈯� Well-designed storage pockets
鈯� Adjustability for different torso lengths
鈯� Bladder included
鈯� Expensive

CamelBak鈥檚 updated HAWG 20 is a comfortable, Mary Poppins鈥搇ike riding pack designed for long days and epic rides. The pack has 20 liters of capacity: 17 liters for cargo and a three-liter water bladder. The back panel has air channels for breathability, a vented mesh harness, a hip belt with zippered cargo pouches, a helmet carry, and an integrated tool roll. The back panel on the pack is adjustable for different torso lengths, and like most CamelBak packs, the sternum strap and harness allow for an individualized fit. It also includes a slot for the optional back protection panel (sold separately) for rowdy riders looking for extra protection.

I tested this bag on a four-day shoulder season mountain biking adventure on the White Rim Trail in Utah, where we encountered rain, snow, and mud, and was extremely impressed with the comfort and storage capacity. It easily allowed me to organize and stash everything I needed for long days on the bike in the elements.

Best Vest-Style Riding Pack

Nathan TrailMix 2.0 12 Liter Hydration Pack

Total Capacity: 12 L (1.5L Bladder)
Weight: 397 g

Pros and Cons
鈯� Lightweight and low profile
鈯� Bladder included
鈯� Lots of storage pockets for snacks
鈯� Hose is affixed to bladder

The best bike packs might not even be true bike packs. It only occurred to me last year to use running vests on mountain bike rides, and to my surprise, I loved it. The Nathan Trail Mix 2.0 is a sweet little vest-style pack. Its roll-top design maximizes storage, and it features a back zippered pocket with a 1.5-liter water bladder/hose, stretch mesh pockets on rear and front, and a bungee strap system on the back. If you prefer to remove the bladder, you can also stash 20-ounce flasks in any of the four front stretch and compress pockets. The pack was super breathable, easily adjustable, and was big enough to carry all the necessities as well as ample water for a one- to three-hour ride. For those who are not into fanny packs but want to add a little extra storage without a full-blown pack, the TrailMix is well worth a look.

Best Hip Pack

High Above The Venture

Total Capacity: ~2.2 L (No Bladder)
Weight: 282 g

Pros and Cons
鈯� Durable, stylish, high-quality pack
鈯� Sleek design
鈯� Not designed for a water bladder
鈯� Exterior quick-draws are an additional cost

The Venture, from Seattle-based High Above, is our go-to hip pack. This quietly stylish but thoughtfully designed item is another made-in-the-USA product. The Venture is 2.2 liters and crafted from robust Challenge Ecopak EPLX fabric, utilizes Fidlock buckles for a super secure and easy-to-use closure, and features three interior pockets as well as an external zippered pocket for organization. Additionally, you can deploy the included accessory straps to lash armor or a jacket to the Venture, and add two different water bottle types to the pack wings for longer rides via the bottle sleeve or quick-draw (the quick-draw model is $30 more). This bulletproof pack, with its compact design, easy-to-access opening, and removable Bottle Rocket, was designed with enduro racing in mind, but it鈥檚 perfectly sized for all the essentials for your average length mountain bike ride and then some.

Editor’s Favorite Riding Pack

EVOC Hip Pack Pro 3

Total Capacity: 4.5 L (1.5 L Bladder)

Weight: 308 g

Pros and Cons
鈯� Designed for water bottle storage or bladder usage
鈯� Unique waist belt keeps pack tight and secure
鈯� Affordable price point
鈯� Front pocket is difficult to close up when fully packed

The Hip Pack Pro 3 is a stylish and dialed-in pack that optimizes hydration and storage needs while prioritizing comfort. You can purchase the pack with or without the 1.5-liter bladder. For those who prefer a bottle鈥攐r those rides where 1.5 liters isn鈥檛 enough and you can鈥檛 fit a water bottle to your bike frame鈥攖here is a single bottle carrier sleeve adjacent to the main cargo pocket. The 3 liters of storage capacity is just enough for longer rides and offers well-designed compartments for quick access to the necessary tools, including front storage slots with zippered pockets and elasticized storage in the main compartment for multi-tools, spare tubes, and other necessities. There are also zippered pockets in the waist belt wings that are great for snacks. The waist belt itself is next-level in comfort and adjustability, thanks to its venting (which includes a mesh cover across the back pads to increase airflow) for the ups, as well as extra cinching for singletrack descents. This hip pack is everything you could want smashed into three liters of perfection: comfort, aesthetically appealing, and function all in one.

How We Test

• Number of Products Tested: 12
• Number of Testers: 3

Packs were selected with input from Pinkbike staff, mountain bike testers, and industry colleagues. Testing was mostly done in the vicinity of Hood River, Oregon, in the late summer through fall, with long-term testing pulled from Pinkbike staff feedback. All the testers are accomplished cyclists who spend a lot of time in the saddle riding, coaching, or racing.

The main trails where we tested in Hood River include the iconic Post Canyon system just on the outskirts of town. The Post Canyon system offers a vast network of forested trails, dropping 3,000 vertical feet from the top point, with a mix of jumps, drops, berms, and rocks. We also rode the 44 Trails system, which is about an hour south of town on the flanks of Mount Hood. The infamous Gifford Pinchot National Forest is just across the Columbia River on the Washington side, which also provided an abundance of testing opportunities.

Fall is the perfect time for testing in the Pacific Northwest, as the dry summer heat fades away and the moisture makes for some epic trail conditions. We encountered a variety of temperatures, from below freezing to uncomfortably sunny and hot.

Meet Our Lead Testers

Nikki Rohan has been mountain biking for over 20 years and testing mountain biking gear for Pinkbike for almost a decade. She resides in Hood River, Oregon, with her husband, three kids, two dogs, and a grumpy cat. She spent a chunk of time competing in enduro races in the PNW, as well as events like Trans BC, Trans Provence, Downieville Classic, Grinduro, and the occasional CX or gravel race. When she is not working or chasing her kids, you will find her on the local trails or exploring the endless forest roads.

Annick Chalier is a longtime Pacific Northwesterner. She has a passion for all things cycling and has been a mountain bike coach, raced road bikes professionally, raced cyclocross, and dabbled in some endurance mountain bike racing. Through the years of training for racing, mountain biking always remained the counterbalance to the structured intervals: a way to be creative and connect with nature, dance down the trail hootin鈥� and hollerin鈥� with friends, and find distance from the outside world by being focused on the moment with the bike.

Megan Barton started riding mountain bikes in 2017 after spending many years running silly long distances on trails. She has years of coaching for both Dirt Series and Brave Endeavours, a Hood River鈥揵ased program. When she鈥檚 not on two wheels, you can find her running, rafting, hiking, or working her day job as a nurse practitioner.

The post These Are the 5 Best Bike Packs for Every 国产吃瓜黑料 appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

The electric-mountain bike market has grown exponentially in the last decade, and this year鈥檚 options are better than ever. Whether you鈥檙e looking for a whip that feels the same as a regular mountain bike, or a hard-charging chop-crusher, we singled out the best seven eMTBs of 2025.

Best eMTBs

• Editor鈥檚 Choice:
• Best All-Rounder:
• Full Power Without the Weight:
• Best Enduro eMTB:
• Best Mid-Power eMTB:
• Best Race eMTB:
• Best Lightweight eMTB:
• How to Choose an eMTB
• How We Test Electric Mountain Bikes
• Meet Our Lead Testers

Editors’ Choice

Trek Slash+

Tested Build: 9.9 X0 AXS T-Type
Weight: 46 lbs
Wheels: Mixed 27.5鈥�/29鈥�
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 172.2 mm rear; 177 mm fork
Motor: TQ HPR50
Battery: 580 Wh, 160 Wh extender

Pros and Cons
鈯� Top-notch descending performance
鈯� Best in class battery range
鈯� Could be your only bike
鈯� Limited size range
鈯� Build kits should be better for the price

Trek chose the Slash as the platform for their newest lightweight eMTB, and boy did they stick to the prompt. The Slash+ is an electrified Slash, and nothing else鈥攂ut that’s what makes it so great. It has a decently powerful motor, truly impressive battery range, and suspension feel that competes with any long-travel mountain bike, electrified or otherwise.

With a TQ motor and battery system, the Slash+ gains some pounds over the analog equivalent, but still comes in at a very impressive 46-pound total build weight, even with some appropriately capable parts bolted to it, such as the RockShox Zeb fork, Vivid air shock, and SRAM Maven brakes. The spec is very solid, although the price of the complete bike is on the higher side compared to other options in this category.

This is an eMTB with the same suspension kinematics, geometry, and body position as the notably impressive Slash. There are only four sizes, though, compared to the five available for the regular Slash, which could make it slightly trickier to choose the right size.

By electric mountain bike standards, the Slash falls into the lightweight eMTB category, where overall weight takes precedence over having as much power as possible at the wheel. That said, the TQ motor can put out an impressive amount of wattage鈥攊t does a great job of making big grinds seem a whole lot mellower. As an added bonus, it鈥檚 damn near silent. It鈥檚 also quite efficient when it comes to battery usage鈥� it鈥檚 possible to put in some serious vert without running out of juice.

Part of the joy of riding an e-bike is the stupid climbs you can throw yourself at, just to see what’s possible. Though the motor output is less punchy than a full-power bike, the Slash+ can still hang. The rear wheel grip pays dividends here, and is helped along by the TQ motor’s natural feeling power delivery鈥攜ou can meter effort in an intuitive way and expect that the bike will follow suit.

The Slash+ is one of the best descending bikes we’ve ridden in recent memory, thanks to excellent rear suspension feel, balanced geometry, and that little extra stability that comes from the motor and battery weight. In comparison to the non-motorized Slash, that last detail is the clincher, as the extra weight near the bottom bracket keeps the bike just a bit more planted over chattery trail noise.

The electric Slash鈥檚 geometry looks good on paper, with a wide range of adjustments that make it possible to customize its handling, and it feels even better in real life. The chainstay length increases nearly 18 millimeters through the travel due to the rearward axle path, which provides stability when you’re pushing into the bike the hardest, but doesn鈥檛 feel too sprawled out in corners and techy sections. The balance here is really impressive. Though the design caters towards erasing bumps at speed鈥攁nd that’s where it feels best鈥攊t doesn鈥檛 compromise on predictable cornering.

Best All-Rounder

Santa Cruz Vala

Tested Build: X0 AXS RSV
Weight: 48.1 lbs
Wheels: Mixed 27.5鈥�/29鈥�
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 150 mm frame travel; 160 mm fork
Motor: Bosch CX
Battery: 600 Wh

Pros and Cons
鈯� Easy handling, adaptable performance
鈯� Impressively reliable frame and electronics
鈯� Excellent build kit
鈯� Battery capacity will disappoint some (but a range extender is available)
鈯� Requires attention on steep climbs

The Vala is the first Horst link bike that Santa Cruz has ever made, and it might represent a more significant change in the brand鈥檚 approach to bike design. Santa Cruz claims that the choice to implement the 4-bar design revolves around packaging constraints brought on by the Bosch CX motor. That may be the case, but the new layout also makes it easier to achieve the suspension curves they’ve been honing in on with VPP bikes over the past few years.

The Vala’s resemblance to the new Bronson, its non-motorized sibling, extends beyond the geometry chart, with on-trail feel that bridges the bike-electric-bike gulf impressively well. The extra weight from the motor and battery is apparent, but not always to a detriment鈥攖hat extra mass can help calm things and keep the bike on line through rougher patches of trail, where a bike might otherwise deflect. Cornering feels intuitive, and the bike tips into steeper turns without any fuss. At times, those situations are where heavier e-bikes can make things harder, as the bike weight can make the bike reluctant to cut into turns as easily as a non-electric bike might; luckily that’s not the case here.

Bosch’s new CX motor is impressively powerful, and pedals intuitively, closely mapping your power output to match expected drive force. The front end of this bike can feel a little “lifty” when power is high and the climb is steep, but it’s nothing better body position can’t fix.

Santa Cruz did a great job with their first foray into the 4-bar world, providing an active yet predictable ride feel that offers consistent support through the travel. Their recommended suspension setup worked very well, and felt balanced on flat and steep trails alike. When it comes to suspension performance, the Vala hits a nice spot, riding high without feeling like it’s pitching your weight forward. It can handle just about anything you throw at it, but errs on the fun side of things, with proportions and weight meant more to mimic regular bikes than to maximize the monster truck e-bike characteristics.

Full Power Without the Weight

Cannondale Moterra SL

Tested Build: LAB71
Weight: 44 lbs
Wheels: Mixed, dual 29鈥� compatible
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 142-149 mm rear travel (size-specific), 160 mm fork
Motor: Shimano EP801
Battery: 601 Wh

Pros and Cons
鈯� Low weight, high power combo
鈯� Adaptable geometry
鈯� Confident handling on tech trails
鈯� Potentially too low and slack in the stock configuration
鈯� Non-removable battery and no range extender options

The Moterra SL promises to let you have your cake and eat it too. It’s a full-power eMTB weighing no more than many SL (Super Light) e-bikes. The Shimano EP801 motor provides the full 85 Nm of oomph to send you up steep hills and the 601Wh internal battery is big enough to do long rides without skimping on assistance. That said, it would be nice to see the addition of a range extender option for completing even longer missions, but at the moment there isn鈥檛 one available.

The combination of a full-power motor and mid-power weight might sound like a recipe for the ultimate climbing e-bike, but unless you’re against the clock, we don’t think there’s a noticeable advantage compared to heavier (around 55 lbs) eMTBs with the same motor. On the other hand, when compared to other SL e-bikes with less power, it is in another league.

Out of the box, the Moterra SL鈥檚 geometry numbers are fairly typical, with the exception of the very slack 62.5-degree head angle. To get the most out of the bike, it鈥檚 worth trying the headset in the steeper geometry setting in order to liven up the handling and make it feel less lethargic on mellower terrain.

The Moterra SL has a fairly damped and predictable feel that deals with small to medium bumps sensitively without feeling too soft or getting lost in the travel. The flex-pivot suspension doesn’t throw up any unusual quirks. The pounds saved compared to other full-power e-bikes pay dividends in complicated sections, particularly when maneuvering the bike through tight trees, sharp corners, or off-camber roots. While still not quite the same as riding an analog bike, it’s a lot more intuitive and engaging than a traditional eMTB.

The combination of a high-torque motor and 44-pound weight is genuinely game-changing in the eMTB world. The Moterra makes other SL e-bikes look limited in range and technical climbing abilities, powering up steep scrambles where mid-power motors struggle and stall. At the same time, it offers a refreshingly “normal” ride compared to full-fat eMTBs when pointed downhill. It falls into the all-mountain category, with the parts spec and power to tackle steep climbs and a wide variety of descents.

Best Enduro eMTB

Orbea Wild

Tested Build: M-LTD
Weight: 49 lbs
Wheels: 29″ (27.5″ link available)
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 170 mm
Motor: Bosch Performance CX
Battery: 600 Wh

Pros and Cons
鈯� Calm and composed handling
鈯� Very quiet while descending
鈯� Excellent power delivery while climbing
鈯� Still has thru-headset cable routing
鈯� Even shorter cranks would be nice to see
鈯� Motor cover is a mud magnet

While the geometry and the overall look of the bike remain the same, the Orbea Wild received a 10-millimeter increase in travel for 2025, putting it at 170 millimeters front and rear, and it’s equipped with the latest version of Bosch鈥檚 Performance CX full power motor. It鈥檚 also mixed-wheel compatible, an option that can be chosen at checkout.

On the trail, the overall position of the Wild is upright and comfortable thanks to the fairly steep seat angle and tall stack. The overall handling is fairly neutral, although we鈥檙e still talking about a slack, full-powered e-bike here鈥攊t takes more effort to maneuver compared to something like the Rise, Orbea鈥檚 lighter weight, more trail-oriented offering.

The Wild may be a descent-focused eMTB, but the Bosch Performance CX motor helps make climbing much more entertaining, with a controlled output that makes it easy to deliver just the right amount of power to the rear wheel.

The new Wild still has that punching bag-like quality that made the last version so enjoyable鈥攊t does a great job of absorbing hits without getting rattled. Speaking of rattling, the new motor is nearly silent while descending, and overall the Wild is extremely quiet, even compared to non-motorized bikes.

The previous Wild was (and still is) a great bike, so it makes sense that the new one received only a slight revision rather than a dramatic overhaul. Gripes about headset cable routing aside, the Wild strikes a very good balance when it comes to its handling and suspension performance on the climbs and descents. It’s a bigger, full power ebike that hides its weight and wheelbase length relatively well, which means you don’t need to be on the absolute rowdiest trails to still have a good time on it.

Best Mid-Power eMTB

Devinci E-Troy Lite

Tested Build: GX AXS 12S
Weight: 43 lbs (size M)
Wheels:Mixed 27.5鈥�/29鈥�
Frame: Aluminum
Travel: 150 mm rear, 160 mm front
Motor: Bosch Performance Line SX 55Nm
Battery: 400 Wh

Pros and Cons
鈯� Confident and playful descender
鈯� Top-performing and natural-feeling Bosch motor
鈯� Excellent value for components and a Made in Canada frame
鈯� The walk mode isn’t the easiest to use
鈯� Noisy on the downhill

The new Devinci E-Troy Lite will convert the e-mountain bike skeptics out there. It delivers power so seamlessly and naturally that it makes you feel like you鈥檙e a fitter version of yourself on the climbs. Not only is the climbing smooth and enjoyable, but the E-Troy Lite is a supremely confident descender with well-balanced suspension.

We reviewed back in January before the Canadian brand released the E-Troy Lite this spring, Devinci’s first lightweight e-mountain bike. It comes with a Bosch Performance Line SX motor with 55 Newton-meters of torque compared to the 85 Newton-meters of torque on the full-powered bike and has a smaller battery as well. With the same amount of travel but a slightly steeper headtube angle, the E-Troy Lite weighs over 10 pounds less than the full-powered bike. All sizes of the E-Troy Lite have mixed wheels.

While climbing, there are four assist modes that are easy to toggle through using the small wireless shifter on the thumb-actuated mini remote. While on eMTB mode, it really feels like you’re being rewarded for putting down watts since the motor reacts to rider input. I spent the majority of the time in the Tour+ (second) and eMTB (third) modes on singletrack climbs since they provided the perfect amount of assistance without burning through the battery or feeling like they were overpowering me. I never felt like I needed to jam on the brakes on a climb, which is certainly a feeling I’ve had with some full-powered eMTBs. Without a range extender, I found that the E-Troy Lite could do an 18-mile ride with about 3,200 feet of climbing (though that number will change based on your effort, the mode, your weight, and the trails).

There are some bikes that you just feel comfortable on out of the box while descending, and the E-Troy Lite is absolutely one of them. The geometry is dialed with a 63.6-degree head tube angle, putting you in a confident and strong position when things get steep and rough. While the bike is able to track well and absorb trail chatter, it also feels lively and light, thanks to the active suspension. My current daily rider weighs around 34 pounds, so the extra weight of the E-Troy Lite doesn’t feel as unwieldy as a full-powered e-mountain bike does. Most importantly, I found the E-Troy Lite perfectly manageable to slow down and control on descents, which isn’t something that I take for granted on a full-powered eMTB. There’s still more fatigue in my hands at the end of a long descent than on a lighter bike, but decidedly less so than on a full-powered eMTB.

While it’s a touch noisy on the descents, the E-Troy Lite makes up for it by being a joy to both climb and descend. In addition, the aluminum frame is made in Canada and the parts are well-selected for the bike’s intended use and it comes at a reasonable price. 鈥擲arah Moore

Best Race eMTB

Canyon StriveOn

Tested Build: CFR LTD
Weight: 50.9 lbs (size L)
Wheels: Mixed 27.5鈥�/29鈥�
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 160 mm, 170 mm fork
Motor: Bosch CX or CX Race
Battery: 625 or 750 Wh

Pros and Cons
鈯� Relatively light, making it easy to handle
鈯� Quiet and unobtrusive motor
鈯� Smaller battery limits max ride length

Canyon鈥檚 new StriveOn has a penchant for racing, with an unabashedly full-powered 85Nm of torque and a maximum 600-watt power output delivered by the Bosch CX motor. The highest-end model can be equipped with Bosch’s CX Race motor, which is 150 grams lighter and provides extra overrun in Race mode for an additional climbing boost.

The geometry of the StriveOn isn’t too far off from its non-electric counterpart but with the notable omission of the Strive’s adjustability. Starting from the Strive’s downhill position, the Strive:On gets longer chainstays and a steeper seat tube angle to better navigate tech climbing, plus a shorter reach in the handlebars to keep the bike maneuverable.

With four size options, and a reach range from 450 to 525 millimeters, the fit of the StriveOn is definitely biased towards bigger riders. Canyon’s reach numbers are generally pretty aggressive for how long they are per size, but riders looking to size down for more agility will hit the low end of the range pretty quickly. Looking at the StriveOn as a standard enduro bike, it’s simply a well-sorted machine, with great geometry and handling characteristics. Where the head angle and reach might seem a bit extreme relative to current high-level pedal bikes, the extra system weight makes that long reach and slack front end feel calmer than you鈥檇 expect.

All told, the StriveOn proved to be an excellent bike for tackling gnarly terrain. The Strive is eager to remind you that you’re on an ebike on the climbs, but there were plenty of moments on the descents where the extra bulk faded away, making for some truly excellent runs.

Best Lightweight eMTB

Specialized Turbo Levo SL

Tested Build: S-Works
Weight: 39.3 lbs (size S4)
Wheels: Mixed or dual 29″
Frame: Carbon
Travel: 150 mm, 160 mm fork
Motor: Specialized SL 1.2 motor
Battery: 320 Wh battery, 160 Wh range extender (inc. w/S-Works)

Pros and Cons
鈯� Lightweight for a 50Nm eMTB
鈯� Adaptable for most riding zones or style
鈯� Plush suspension is the right amount of active
鈯� Expensive
鈯� Main battery isn鈥檛 easily removable

In my mind, the Levo SL is the pinnacle of what e-bikes could be鈥攐r all bikes, for that matter. First, it weighs as much as some enduro bikes, which includes its motor. This S-Works model is shod with the cream of the crop components; Fox Factory suspension that is tuned specifically by Specialized, SRAM鈥檚 bulletproof XX Transmission shifting, and carbon nearly everywhere possible on the bike.

As for that tiny motor, it鈥檚 gained 15Nm of torque over the previous generation (50Nm up from 35). A tidy display screen that can be personalized using the straightforward Specialized app is built into the top tube. On the handlebars, you can shuffle through a few of the chosen screens, toggle the assist, and activate the walk mode with ease. A 320Wh battery is located in the downtube. If you鈥檙e looking for extra juice, a 160-watt-hour range extender nestles into the bottle cage and firmly locks onto the charge port.

Its impeccable FSR suspension handles everything from stutter bumps to eroded downhill tracks. The whole time we rode it, the chain and motor clutch barely made a peep. That鈥檚 perhaps the best part of all鈥攖he silence and buttery suspension make it easy to forget that you鈥檙e ripping downhill with a motor hidden in the frame.

Bottom Line: It can be as aggressive as current downhill bikes, or as upright as some cross-country mountain bikes. It works for hauling down the steeps or remaining sharp in rolling terrain. Overall, it鈥檚 just about as adaptable as its motorless sibling, the Stumpjumper Evo.

How to Choose an E-Mountain Bike

Electric bikes have evolved at a break-neck speed in the past five years or so, transforming from huge, bulky beasts into much more refined and svelte electric machines. Though there is still ample room for progress, many of the problems with the first couple of generations of ebikes have been smoothed out. However, buying an e-mountain bike has become even more of a project thanks to all of the new tech that has come out to solve said problems.

For a full rundown on how to buy an e-mountain bike in our current market, check out Pinkbike鈥檚 . Editor in Chief Mike Kazimer provides tips by asking questions like: What are you friends riding? How far do you typically go? What type of riding are you planning on doing? How much money do you want to spend? Of course, you can opt to go for a regular mountain bike that isn鈥檛 motored, but if you鈥檙e set on going electric, make sure you鈥檙e paying close attention to these factors.

How We Test Electric Mountain Bikes

The bikes included in this roundup are the result of rolling testing done in Whistler, Squamish, and Bellingham throughout the year by the Pinkbike crew. We also rode some bikes at Crankworx Whistler, one of a multi-stop series of mountain bike festivals put on at multiple locations around the world every year.

Conditions ranged from dusty, rutted-out downhill trails to muddy, technical rides in the rainforest of Squamish. We took some bikes out for over and tested them in as many different types of trails as possible. Testers particularly considered the electric mountain bike’s climbing prowess, descending abilities, and sound levels.

Meet Our Lead Testers

: Managing tech editor for Pinkbike, alien skeptic.

: Tech editor for Pinkbike, based in Bellingham, Washington.

: Tech editor for Pinkbike, former World Cup Downhill racer.

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The post The 7 Best Electric Mountain Bikes of 2025 appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

This year鈥檚 round-up of trail mountain bikes ranges from hard-charging, downhill-oriented crushers to more cross-country-style rippers. Our testers and editors tested 25 trail bikes in the category from Bellingham to Squamish, in all kinds of conditions. After months of testing, these picks are the ones that came out on top.

Updated May 2025: We added three new bikes to this list for 2025, including our new Editors’ Choice pick, the Canyon Spectral. We also updated pricing and info on bikes we previously tested and still highly recommend.听

Best Trail Mountain Bikes at a Glance

• Editors’ Choice:
• Best Adjustability:
• Best Value:
• Best Descender:
• Best High-Pivot:
• Most Versatile:
• Best for Getting Air:
• How to Choose a Trail Mountain Bike
• How We Test Trail Bikes
• Meet the Lead Testers

Editors’ Choice

Canyon Spectral

Build: CF9
Weight: 32.4 lb (size M)
Travel: 140 mm rear, 150 mm fork
Frame: Carbon
Wheels: 29″

Pros and Cons
鈯� Versatile
鈯� Good value
鈯� Supportive suspension
鈯� Not a lot of room for a water bottle

Canyon’s goal with the latest version of the Spectral was to make it more of an all-around trail bike, as opposed to an all-mountain rig. As we’ve established, mountain bike categories are harder to define than ever, but to accomplish that goal, Canyon reduced the rear travel by 10 millimeters, dropping it to 140 millimeters, and equipped the bike with a 150-millimeter fork. The bike can be set up with dual 29-inch wheels (the way we tested it) or with mixed wheels, thanks to a flip chip on the chainstay. Other than the change in rear travel, the other main revision to the Spectral was the addition of in-frame storage. It’s not the roomiest compartment out there, but it’s a handy spot to stash a tube, tire levers, and a CO2 inflator just in case.

The new Spectral has the snappy, energetic manners that you’d hope to find in a trail bike. Step on the pedals and it happily surges forward鈥攖here isn’t any wallowing down or sluggishness. The head angle is on the slacker side, but that didn’t seem to hinder its uphill abilities.

Rather than feeling like a slightly shorter travel enduro bike, the Spectral feels at home on a broader range of trails. It’s just as entertaining to ride on smooth, flowy singletrack as it is on tighter, jankier trails. The suspension sits high when you want it to, but still provides enough traction to keep that rear wheel tracking on choppier climbs.

The supportive suspension that helps the Spectral shine on the climbs translates very nicely to the descents鈥攊t was a crowd pleaser on faster, flowier trails, where you could really push it into steep bermed turns and pump every roller to for maximum speed. On rougher, natural tracks, the fact that there’s less travel than bikes like the Santa Cruz Bronson is noticeable, but it never felt chattery or overwhelmed. Even without a hydraulic bottom-out feature on the shock, there weren’t any harsh bottom-out events, and it saw its fair share of sizeable sends.

Yes, you’ll feel more feedback compared to those longer travel options, but the Spectral does a very good job of managing its travel. Smack into something hard and it’s like punching a memory foam mattress. The Spectral is one of those bikes that’s easy to recommend to just about any rider, no matter their skill level. It’s tons of fun on mellower, more meandering terrain, and it can still hang on rougher, rowdier trails. It鈥檚 a versatile trail bike that left us impressed by its unflappable nature in a wide variety of terrain.

Best Adjustability

Trek Top Fuel

Build: 9.9 XX AXS
Weight: 28.2 lbs (size L)
Travel: 120 mm, 130 mm fork
Frame: Carbon
Wheels: 29″ (MX compatible with 140 mm fork)

Pros and Cons
鈯� Wide range of adjustment
鈯� Clean-looking frame
鈯� All modern amenities included
鈯� Underpowered brakes
鈯� Should be lighter for the price

It’s easy to obsess over a bike’s actual weight, but there’s something to be said about how a bike feels out on the trail. With the Top Fuel, it feels fast and eager to accelerate, even with tires and wheels that aren’t all that light. The Top Fuel manages to be quick and efficient without any harshness, a feat that’s not easy to accomplish. The suspension remains calm under harder pedaling, while retaining enough compliance to keep chunkier climbs from feeling jarring.

The geometry is nicely balanced, too: the chainstay length and overall wheelbase have grown compared to the last model, but if anything, I’d say that improves the bike’s handling while climbing and descending. On the climbs, it helps create a more centered position, which makes it easier to maintain traction on steep sections or to pause for a brief trackstand in the middle of a particularly tricky jumble of roots.

With the Top Fuel Gen 4, when the trail points downhill, the handling is quick without feeling sketchy. It’s right at home on rolling, meandering trails, and it does a great job of maintaining speed on descents that require pumping and pedaling to avoid getting hung up. Just like on the climbs, there’s support for those moments when an extra pedal stroke or two is required, and enough small bump sensitivity to keep the wheels gripping on slippery, awkward sections of trail.

At its core, the Top Fuel is a truly excellent bike, a prime example of how well-rounded a modern trail bike can be. Sure, it’s not as light as it once was, and there are a few spec choices that could be improved, but the ride quality and sheer number of possible configurations help make up for that. For riders on the hunt for a bike they can customize to perfectly suit their favorite local trails, the Top Fuel is well worth considering.

Best Value Trail Bike

Specialized Stumpjumper 15

Build: Comp Alloy
Weight: 36 lbs (s4)
Travel: 145 mm, 150 mm fork
Frame: Aluminum frame
Wheels: 29″ or MX

Pros and Cons
鈯� Sensitive suspension
鈯� Extensive adjustment capabilities
鈯� Descends like a bigger bike
鈯� Heavy

The Stumpjumper is Specialized’s now ubiquitous do-everything trail bike, with adjustability and adaptability integral to the bike’s character. This year’s update to the 15th iteration of the bike wasn’t some massive overhaul, but more of a refinement, with very similar geometry to the outgoing Stumpjumper EVO, and the introduction of the Genie shock. While not necessarily required, this shock is core to the bike’s purported improvement in suspension performance, and does achieve some impressive marks on paper.

The Stumpy’s ability to hum through rough and technical terrain is very impressive, thanks in part to its active suspension feel. Rear wheel traction is plentiful, meaning you can focus on putting down power without worrying about spinning out when things get tricky.

As terrain smooths out and climbs hit a more consistent gradient, the Stumpjumper 15 isn’t the most energetic of the bunch, due more to the active suspension and slack seat angle. Those looking to maximize the pep in the new Stumpjumper platform would benefit from adding more spacers to the Genie to reduce the extra volume and add some support through the main portion of the stroke. There’s a tradeoff with grip, but that’s to be expected.

The Stumpjumper 15 shines brightest in its stock setup, with the neutral headset orientation and high bottom bracket setting. No painting yourself into a corner鈥攖his is simply where the Stumpy feels most adaptable and ready to tackle varied terrain.

The geometry and corresponding handling of the bike feels natural, intuitive, and well-rounded, which lends itself to the varied riding one might expect to do on a capable trail bike. A few of us regularly referred to the bike as “safe” feeling, thanks to an easygoing nature that managed to extend even into some pretty gnarly sections of trail.

The Stumpjumper 15 should work well for new riders and experienced folks alike, growing with that skillset and adapting well to changes in terrain.

Best Descender

Scor 2030 GX

Build: 2030 GX
Weight: 29.9 lbs (size M/L)
Travel: 120 mm, 140 mm fork
Frame: Carbon
Wheels: 29″

Pros and Cons
鈯� It’s a better descender than most 120-millimeter travel bikes
鈯� Very quiet, no cable rattle or excessive chainslap
鈯� Your enduro bike might start collecting dust

It only takes one three-letter word to summarize why the Scor 2030 is our 2024 Editor鈥檚 Choice winner: FUN. With its stubby back end and relatively slack head angle, the 2030 is incredibly entertaining, especially on technical, rolling terrain. Pumping, manualing, and jumping are the 2030’s strong suits, but it also squeezes every last drop of performance out of its 120 millimeters of rear travel. That trait allows it to shine brighter than most bikes in this travel bracket when faced with chunky, technical sections of trail.

The 2030 is more focused on the descents than some other bikes in this category (like the), but Scor’s designers didn’t forget that it needs to go uphill, too. It’s an energetic pedaler, free of any wallowing or mushiness while still delivering enough traction to keep that low-profile Rekon tire from spinning wildly. The perfect balance between efficiency and grip can be tricky to achieve, but the 2030 does it very well. It has the quickness you’d hope to get from a 120-millimeter bike without any accompanying harshness.

The geometry plays a large part in how comfortable the bike feels in the steeps, but the suspension deserves a mention, too: the Deluxe Ultimate shock is very well controlled, with a smooth ramp up at the bottom of the stroke. It’s a trait we noticed with the Scor 4060 a couple of years ago鈥攖here’s no harshness towards the end of the travel, which makes it easier to plop off a drop or push through a pointy rock garden without worrying about running out of travel.

Yes, there are limits鈥攚e’re still talking about a 120-millimeter trail bike here鈥攁nd I’m not about to say it can go wheel-to-wheel with a full-on enduro bike. However, the fact that it can handle those more technical trails while also remaining entertaining on mellower ones is worth noting. The suspension opens up nicely at higher speeds, and it can deal with quick impacts very well.

The frame itself ticks all the boxes when it comes to the features we’d expect to see on a modern trail bike鈥攖here’s in-frame storage, angle-adjusting headset cups, well-sealed bearings, and effective chainslap protection that keeps the 2030 satisfyingly silent. The 2030 is one of those bikes that makes you want to keep on riding, sneaking in as many miles as possible before it’s time to return to reality.

Best High-Pivot Trail Bike

Forbidden Druid V2

Build: GX FX
Weight: 32.4 lbs (size M)
Travel: 130 mm, 150 mm fork
Frame: Carbon
Wheels: 29″ or MX

Pros and Cons
鈯� Descends like a longer travel bike
鈯� Extremely quiet ride
鈯� The extra idler wheel can require more servicing
鈯� A unique spin on geometry means the XL frame鈥檚 chainstay grows extremely long through the travel

If you鈥檝e ever ridden an idler-equipped high-pivot bike鈥攎eaning the bike鈥檚 main pivot is placed above the top of the chainring and the rear wheel axle鈥攜ou know the calming effect that the rearward axle path brings to the nature of the ride. Forbidden has taken that to a trail bike, something seldom utilized on a 130-millimeter-travel bike. The original Druid won over fans of shorter travel bikes with its ability to handle descents as if it had magical powers鈥攏ow, it鈥檚 transcendent. Even with a longer-travel model in the lineup, Forbidden鈥檚 enduro racer, Rhys Verner, claimed the top spot this season aboard the Druid V2.

We took the Druid V2 out on singletrack uphills and downhills with chunky rock outcrops, and the bike felt superbly balanced. Thanks to the high pivot design and the Super Deluxe rear shock, the Druid handled technical bumps with ease and had no trouble carrying speed. The Druid V2 thrives in singletrack because you can stay seated upright and comfy, and you don鈥檛 lose much speed when pedaling across roots.

However, the admirable suspension qualities of high-pivot bikes don鈥檛 come easily鈥攖hey typically require more upkeep to maintain maximum drivetrain efficiency. Due to the precise placements of the pivots on the Druid V2, you cannot adjust the geometry. To pick between a 64 or 64.5-degree head tube angle, you鈥檒l need to choose the specific frame member that houses either a 27.5 or 29-inch rear wheel. Although the brake line鈥檚 routing passes through the seatstay, it鈥檚 not a swap you鈥檒l be making in the parking lot. On that note of chainstays, Forbidden scales their front to rear center lengths proportionally per size, so the same ratio is kept on all frame sizes. Even taller riders may have trouble wielding the 466-millimeter chainstay found on the XL frame size.

Overall, the Druid V2 is one of the more capable short-travel bikes for riders who prefer snappy handling. It might take a while for some riders to acclimatize to its lengthy rear triangle, but the unbelievably smooth descent is worth it.

Most Versatile

Cannondale Habit Carbon LT 1

Build: Sram GX Eagle
Weight: 31.4 lbs (size L)

Pros and Cons
鈯� Balanced and composed in tricky situations
鈯� Not super efficient on the uphill

When we covered the , it struck us just how sensible and conventional it was. There was no quirkiness to it, at least on the surface, and everything about it seemed to be pragmatic and well-judged. The Habit LT’s geometry, frame features, and simple layout all scream modern, sensible trail bike. The frame has some nice subtle features, with a rubber cover to stop your chainstay from gobbling up rocks, non-guided routing that is very easy to work with thanks to a removable panel on the downtube, ISCG threads, and a tried-and-true threaded bottom bracket.

Though it is a typical four-bar bike, the Habit has a comparatively low anti-squat value. This may be bad news for all-out efficiency on smooth roads, but it鈥檚 good news if you need your suspension to adapt to terrain on rougher climbs. The Habit is comfortable on undulating terrain thanks to that higher stack, and the suspension tracks and grips well. We sometimes used the climb switch for hard-pack fire roads or tarmac stretches, but for anything remotely rough, we set it to open and let it flow. It might not be the most suited to out-of-the-saddle pedaling hard, but the bike does strike a great balance between tracking and efficiency. The Habit LT is weighted on the front, balanced on most trails, and able to handle very steep trails because of this well-proportioned and pragmatic geometry. We’re not big believers in massive reaches, especially when combined with short rear ends鈥攖he grip the Habit achieves on any type of trail is a testament to this. Extra-regular is no bad thing.

Overall, this is a very well-executed bike that simply works very well. Balance, composure, maneuverability, and comfort can oftentimes seem like ideologies that are opposed to one another in bikes, and you can merely have two or three out of the four at best. The Habit LT makes a very strong argument that, as riders, we might just be able to have it all.

Best for Getting Air

Commencal Tempo LTD

Build: Tempo LTD
Weight: 30.9 lbs (size S)
Travel: 125 mm rear, 140 mm fork
Frame: Aluminum
Wheels: 29″

Pros and Cons
鈯� Quick and lively
鈯� Never met a jump or corner it didn’t like
鈯� Thru-headset cable routing can make maintenance more difficult

No matter which direction the trail points, the Tempo is fast. It has a satisfying snappiness that rewards hard pedaling efforts, especially on rolling terrain where the bike can be pumped and pushed to maintain that momentum. It’s also a very energetic climber, which will be a welcome trait to anyone coming off of a longer travel machine with more subdued pedaling manners. Compared to longer, slacker bikes where you need to swing wide to navigate awkward switchbacks, the Tempo is happiest taking the inside line, following a tight, precise arc on its way upwards. We’d be tempted to call it a trail bike for riders who prioritize the climbs鈥攅xcept that it’s a blast on the downhills too.

The Tempo is the type of bike that can breathe new life into mellower trails while also holding its own on the rowdier stuff. Modern mountain bike categories can be nebulous at times, but this is a trail bike in the truest sense of the term, well-suited to spinning out the miles while also goofing off and hitting every lip and landing possible. Do we wish it didn’t have thru-headset cable routing and better-sealed frame bearings? You bet, but we wouldn’t consider either of those deal-breakers. The overall ride characteristics of the Tempo are overwhelmingly positive, enough so that we’d be willing to deal with a little extra shop time.

How to Choose a Trail Bike

The trail bike category is the most saturated in mountain biking, so it鈥檚 understandable if you鈥檙e feeling a bit overwhelmed. Fortunately, there are a few easy questions you can ask yourself to narrow the field.

What kind of riding will you be doing?

As much as you may want to answer this one with flowy, singletrack heaven, it鈥檚 important to be realistic about what you鈥檒l actually be riding. This can be determined by the time of year that you mostly get out there (which will determine what the conditions will be like), which trails are most accessible to you, and which region you bike in. Are you planning on taking big trips consistently, or will you mostly stay local?

Will you be riding lift-accessed trails?

If most of the riding you鈥檒l be doing is lift-accessed, you may want to look in the enduro category. If you鈥檒l be doing a mix of both and are planning on hitting jumps, look for a bike that has enough travel but doesn鈥檛 compromise on the uphill either.

What鈥檚 your riding style?

If you prefer to charge through steep, technical sections, you could be looking at a very different bike than if you鈥檙e a more playful rider who likes to find side hits. Again, be honest with yourself about this. How do you actually ride, and what鈥檚 aspirational?

What鈥檚 your budget?

Yes, mountain bikes are expensive. But you do have options. Consider buying used (the market has finally gotten more reasonable this past year), by checking out or looking on Craigslist. Or, check out our best value bikes page for cheaper new bikes. If you鈥檙e thinking about buying a used bike (which can be an excellent option), watch from Pinkbike Originals.

Are you able to test it out?

You must take a bike at least for a spin around the block before you pull the trigger. You might find that you鈥檙e uncomfortable on a bike with a certain geometry that you鈥檙e not used to鈥攁nd although sometimes it does take some more time on the bike鈥攜ou鈥檒l know if you鈥檙e just not sitting right. Taking it for a spin will also help the shop determine which size is best for you.

How We Test Trail Bikes

• Number of Testers: 6
• Number of Products Tested: 25

Pinkbike leads our mountain bike testing and just like in previous years, the team took out as many trail bikes as they could over the whole year. They tested trail bikes in Bellingham, Washington, and Squamish, BC, in a wide range of conditions that included everything from muddy, rainy days to ones with blue skies and perfect dirt. Testing was lead by Mike Kazimer, Pinkbike’s editor in chief, who is based in Bellingham, Washington and manages all mountain bike gear coverage.

Meet Our Lead Testers

Mike Kazimer is Pinkbike’s editor-in-chief, and has been entrenched in the mountain bike world for well over 20 years. From crushing cardboard boxes as a shop grom to his current role as Pinkbike, he鈥檚 long been fascinated with the elegant simplicity of human powered machines. Based in Bellingham, Washington, Kazimer鈥檚 no stranger to wet weather, and his favorite rides tend to be long, technical forays deep into the forest.

Dario DiGiulio is a tech editor for Pinkbike. You can find him biking the trails of Bellingham, Washington year-round.

Matt Beer is a tech editor for Pinkbike. He’s based in Squamish, B.C.

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The post Our Favorite Trail Mountain Bikes For Every Kind of Condition appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

The right bike rack makes transporting your ride easy, secure, and stress-free. Whether you鈥檙e hauling an e-bike, mountain bike, road bike, or fat bike, a well-designed rack should be intuitive to use and built to last. We tested 22 racks across 8 vehicles with a range of bike types, prioritizing ease of use in real-world conditions, including cross-country road trips in both summer and winter. From hitch racks to tailgate pads, here are the best bike transport options for every type of rider.

At a Glance

• Best Overall:
• Best Off-Roading Rack:
• Best Budget Hitch Rack:
• Best Trunk Bike Rack:
• Best Tailgate Pad:
• Best Vertical Rack:
• Best Bike Rack for Fat Bikes:
• Best Swing-Away Rack Adapter:
• How to Choose a Bike Rack
• How We Test
• Meet Our Testers

Best Overall

Kuat Piston Pro

Weight Limit: 67 lbs per tray
Capacity: 2 bikes with add-ons for up to 2 more
Wheel Diameter Range: 18-29 in.
Max Tire Width: 5 in.
Rack Weight: 63 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� No frame contact
鈯� Air-assisted arms
鈯� Durable
鈯� Expensive
鈯� Heavy

The Kuat Piston Pro sets a high standard for hitch racks. With its dual-arm, touchless design, loading and unloading bikes is as simple as pressing a lever. The button-operated pneumatic arms open wide, which makes loading and unloading bikes a breeze. The powder-coated aluminum construction ensures longevity, and the foot-operated tilt mechanism allows easy trunk access, even when loaded. You鈥檒l also score extra nonchalant cool points at the trailhead when, at the press of a button, the rack鈥檚 arms open wide, making it much easier to operate the rack while also holding your bike. 鈥淚鈥檝e never used a rack with arms that open on their own, and now it鈥檚 the only rack I want to use,鈥� noted one tester.

Like many racks of this style, the Piston Pro secures bikes at both tires, therefore avoiding frame contact, which makes it ideal for lightweight carbon frames and high-end builds. It accommodates a variety of wheel and tire sizes, including larger 29-inch mountain bikes and narrow road tires.

While it lacks some of the luxury features of the Piston Pro X, like gold stanchions and integrated tail lights, the Piston Pro remains the easiest and most refined tray rack available. It was favored by all of our testers for its ease of use and the wide range of bikes it can transport securely.

Best Off-Roading Rack

1UP Super Duty

Weight Limit: Up to 100 lbs per tray
Capacity: 2 bikes with add-ons for up to 2 more
Tire Diameter Range: 16 -29 in.
Max Tire Width: 5 in.
Rack Weight: 64 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Durable
鈯� Handles heavy bikes
鈯� Extremely stable
鈯� Heavy
鈯� Tilt lever is very difficult to use

The 1UP Super Duty was designed for rugged terrain, heavy loads, and transporting bikes in the toughest conditions. Its all-metal construction is overbuilt in the best way, with robust, ratcheting arms that hold bikes by the tires without frame contact.

While it lacks some of the creature comforts of Kuat鈥檚 Piston Pro, such as the auto-opening arms, the Super Duty is one of the most secure and versatile racks available鈥攑erfect for heavy e-bikes and off-roaders needing a rack that won鈥檛 rattle loose. The strong clamping mechanism ensures that even on rough roads, your bikes stay in place without shifting. Unlike many hitch racks, it lacks plastic parts, which can become fragile in cold weather and are more susceptible to UV damage, which bodes well for long-term durability.

Several of our testers noted that the lever used to tilt the rack is very hard to access, especially when the rack is fully loaded. We strongly recommend adding ($99). In our opinion, this should be a standard feature. While it鈥檚 not the most user-friendly rack in our round-up, it was voted 鈥淭he bike rack most likely to survive the apocalypse鈥� by one tester.

Whether you鈥檙e heading deep into bumpy backcountry roads or need a reliable option for heavier e-bikes, the 1UP Super Duty is the best option.

Best Budget Hitch Rack

Hollywood Racks Trail Rider Hitch Bike Rack

Weight Limit: 45 lbs per tray
Capacity: 2 bikes
Wheel Diameter Range: 20 – 29 in.Max Tire Width: 3 in.
Rack Weight: 37 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Affordable
鈯� Compact folding design
鈯� Easy install and adjustability
鈯� R Trunk access
鈯� Clamps to the bike鈥檚 frame
鈯� Less durable than premium options
鈯� Low weight limit

For those seeking an affordable yet functional hitch rack, the Hollywood Racks Trail Rider is hard to beat. While it lacks the features of higher-end models, its simplicity and effectiveness make it a solid choice for casual riders. The rack folds compactly when not in use and includes an easy-to-use yet basic tilt function for rear vehicle access.

This tray-style rack secures bikes via padded frame clamps and adjustable wheel trays. The ratcheting hooks contact bikes鈥� top tubes, which isn鈥檛 ideal for delicate carbon bikes, but for budget-conscious cyclists who need a reliable way to transport their bikes, this rack is a worthwhile option. Installation is straightforward, and it holds two bikes securely, making it an excellent choice for weekend riders or those new to hitch racks.

Best Trunk Bike Rack

Saris Bones EX 3-Bike

Weight Limit: 35 lbs per cradle
Capacity: 3 bikes
Rack Weight: 11 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Lightweight yet strong
鈯� Fits wide range of vehicles
鈯� Secure ratcheting straps
鈯� Folds for easy storage
鈯� Longer setup time
鈯� Obstructs rear visibility on many vehicles
鈯� Less stable

Launched back in 1996 with minimal revisions since then, the Saris Bones EX 3 remains one of the most user-friendly trunk racks on the market. Its injection-molded arms and legs are lightweight yet strong, and the arc design helps fit a wide range of vehicles, including hatchbacks and many SUVs. The ratcheting straps make securing bikes quick, though the bikes are more prone to contact each other than with tray-style hitch racks. Thanks to its low weight, installation is easy. It also folds down for storage when not in use, making it perfect for cyclists who are short on space.

While trunk racks inherently require more setup time than hitch racks, the Bones EX 3 is the easiest to use in its category.

Best Tailgate Pad

Race Face T3

Capacity: 6 bikes
Rack Weight: 5 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Allows tonneau covers to fully close
鈯� Secure
鈯� Versions available for compact and full-size trucks
鈯� Removable downtube attachments
鈯� Not as theft-resistant as hitch-mounted racks
鈯� Only compatible with trucks

If you have a large group of riding buddies that you need to transport via pickup truck, a tailgate pad is essential. Though less secure than traditional racks, tailgate pads are affordable, and some of the latest models鈥攊ncluding the Race Face T3 do an excellent job of preventing bikes from knocking against each other during transport.

A rigid, compression-molded foam pad protects fork crowns and keeps the front of up to six bikes secure, preventing unnecessary movement. While testing, we found the Race Face T3 did the best job of keeping bikes separated thanks in part to the ribbed fork pad that prevents bikes from swaying side to side.

Unlike many other tailgate pads, the T3鈥檚 thick foldaway downtube padding swings out of the way, allowing your tonneau cover to fully close and lock when bikes are removed鈥攏o more gaps when securing other cargo.

Best Vertical Rack

Thule ReVert

Weight Limit: 55 lbs per cradle
Capacity: 6 bikes
Wheel Diameter Range: 29-in. wheels (20 – 24-in. accessory available separately)
Max Tire Width: 3 in. (4 – 5-in. wheel basket available separately)
Rack Weight: 88 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Holds up to six bikes
鈯� Easy lifting and lowering
鈯� Rear vehicle access
鈯� Protective of frames
鈯� Large and heavy
鈯� Expensive

Vertical racks have gained popularity as high school mountain bike leagues have sprouted up across North America because hauling a minivan full of kids to mountain bike practice requires a heavy-duty bike rack. Designed for riders needing to transport multiple bikes, the Thule ReVert 6 holds six bikes vertically by their front wheels.

The rack鈥檚 assisted tilting feature allows for easier loading and rear vehicle access鈥攁 rare feature in vertical racks. What also sets the ReVert 6 apart from other vertical-style racks is its hydraulic damper, which provides weight assistance鈥攎uch like the lift supports on the hatch of a minivan or SUV鈥攎aking it easier to both lower and raise the rack when fully loaded. This feature is incredibly useful because lifting a rack loaded with six bikes can be challenging.

Although the price and rack weight are both quite hefty, the ReVert 6 is an ideal solution for teams, families, and riders who need a high-capacity, user-friendly rack. Plus, the wheel baskets accommodate a wide range of tire sizes, and the padded cradles help prevent frame damage.

Best Rack For Fat Bikes

Saris Edge

Weight Limit: 80 lbs per tray
Capacity: 2 bikes
Wheel Diameter Range: 24 – 29 in.
Max Tire Width: 5 in.
Rack Weight: 65 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Can fit tires up to 5 inches wide
鈯� Easy installation
鈯� Integrated locking system
鈯� Heavy
鈯� Handles a limited range of wheel sizes
鈯� Expensive

Fat bikes demand a rack that can handle their oversized tires with stability, and the Saris Edge does just that. While many racks claim to support tires up to 5 inches wide, few do so as securely as this one. Plus, its fixed-position, spring-loaded arm avoids contact with bikes鈥� frames and forks. The included rear-wheel riser block also lifts bikes by 2.5 inches, preventing seat and handlebar interference between bikes.

The 鈥渉ollow spoon鈥� tray design does a great job of transporting skinny-tired road and gravel bikes as it does fat bikes, and its high weight capacity allows it to carry e-bikes weighing up to 80 pounds each. The tool-free anti-wobble system ensures a secure fit, while integrated locking cables keep bikes safe.

Best Swing-Away Rack Adapter

1UP RakAttach

Weight Limit: 275 lbs
Weight: 56 lbs

Pros and Cons
鈯� Sturdy
鈯� Accommodates both right- and left-sided operation
鈯� Expensive

For those who need easy access to their vehicle鈥檚 rear compartment while using a hitch rack, the 1UP RakAttach is the best swing-away adapter available. (Vanlifers, this one鈥檚 for you.) The 2.0 version retains the same hinge and clasp mechanisms as the original, but it now features the ability to flip and open toward the vehicle’s driver or passenger side, adding versatility for different setups.

The RakAttach pivots 100 degrees and has a 275-pound weight capacity, making it suitable for carrying hitch bike racks or cargo carriers. Of all the swing-away adapters we tested, the RakAttach had the least amount of sway while testing on rough fire roads. Whether you’re loading gear or accessing your trunk, truck bed, or the rear of your Sprinter van, the RakAttach extends your hitch rack away from the vehicle with ease.

How To Choose a Bike Rack

When choosing a bike rack, consider your vehicle type, bike weight, and the number of bikes you need to carry. For instance, if you鈥檙e carrying one or more e-bikes, you鈥檒l need to ensure your rack and hitch accommodate higher weight requirements. Also, consider how frequently you plan to carry bikes. If you plan to use it multiple times a week, investing in a top-quality hitch rack will pay off. If you only plan to use a rack several times a year, a more budget-friendly option, like a trunk rack, might be a better choice.

Hitch Racks vs Trunk Racks vs Tailgate Pads

Hitch racks are the most secure and convenient but require a receiver hitch. (We strongly recommend using a Class III 20-inch receiver whenever possible, as it has a higher weight limit and provides significantly more stability than 1 录-inch models.) Trunk racks offer affordability and the versatility to mount them on vehicles without trailer hitches, but they require more setup and generally don鈥檛 carry bikes as securely as platform-style hitch racks. Tailgate pads work best for truck owners transporting multiple mountain bikes.

How We Test

We tested these racks on eight different types of vehicles, including trucks, hatchbacks, SUVs, and vans. Our goal was to evaluate them based on ease of use, security, and durability. We assessed each rack in our test in real-world conditions that included quick after-work rides as well as multi-state road trips to our favorite riding destinations in Colorado, Utah, Washington, Oregon, and Arkansas. While we logged more than a thousand highway miles, we also spent time on unpaved forest roads to gauge which racks would really limit sway (and hold up to abuse).

We also tested the weather resistance of each rack by leaving them on vehicles during winter driving conditions. We took note of the time it took to assemble each rack, as well as installation and load times. During testing, we noted any issues with bike stability, usability, and degradation in performance due to wear and tear.

Meet Our Testers

Josh Patterson has been riding and wrenching on bikes for 20 years and, with a master鈥檚 degree in journalism, has been writing about the sport for more than half of that time. He鈥檚 a cycling generalist who finds joy in riding road, gravel, and mountain bikes.

Samantha Boon has turned wrenches in bike shops, worked in trail advocacy, and written for several cycling media titles. She鈥檚 an avid rider and professional communicator who is able to convey the features and benefits of the products she tests in an approachable manner.

Robbie Jackson doesn鈥檛 just ride bikes; he also builds them. In addition to being a fabricator, Jackson enjoys off-roading and overlanding, making him the perfect candidate to stress-test bike racks on the back of his Ford Raptor.

The post These Are the Best Bike Racks on the Market appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

It鈥檚 that time of year, when we all become obsessed with bettering ourselves. Rather than a health-focused resolution this year, one of mine involved getting a handle on organizing my garage full of outdoor gear and simplifying the process of packing for trips.

Before diving into what I did, let me give you a little background. I鈥檝e always been a generalist when it comes to outdoor pursuits and dabble in a lot of different sports and hobbies. From bowhunting to mountain biking and backcountry skiing, they鈥檙e all pretty gear-intensive, which means I鈥檝e got a lot of equipment.

Watch: Bryan’s First Attempt at Gear Organization

Since I test gear for work, too, all that stuff tends to accumulate rather quickly, outpacing my attempts to keep things organized and leaving me with piles of stuff on shelves and in corners of my garage. I鈥檝e even documented some of my attempts at gear organization in the past, at one point creating a full pegboard wall to house gear.

Ultimately, none of the previous storage systems worked great for us and we wanted a more practical way to stay organized and simplify our lives. When my wife, Sarah, and I freed up some space in our barn last fall, we ended up with an empty room large enough to house our outdoor gear and decided to a new system.

Practical vs. Pinterest Gear Storage

I often get bogged down by wanting my gear room or garage to 鈥搇ike a climbing rack beautifully displayed on a pegboard, backpacks hanging on a wall, and each hobby having its own, well-organized corner of a space that looks more like an REI display than an actual human being鈥檚 home.

What I鈥檝e found over the years is that this method works great if you have one main hobby. But, if you鈥檙e like me and have a lot of different hobbies where the gear crosses over (think sleeping bags you use for every activity, or walkie talkies you use while backcountry skiing and hunting), it can actually make packing for trips more complicated.

Sarah鈥檚 idea was to not only get some new bins and organizational tools, but to change the way we were organizing gear. Rather than grouping things like backpacks, electronics, layers, hunting optics, camp stoves, and cutlery separately, she came up with an 鈥淎-team and B-team鈥� bin approach to each sport.

For instance, rather than having a bin labeled 鈥渟kiing鈥� that鈥檚 chock-full of both of our layers, googles, helmets and everything associated with the sport, we now have bins labeled 鈥淏ryan Ski,鈥� 鈥淪arah Ski,鈥� and 鈥淏ackup Skiing.鈥� Everything I always end up taking with me for a day of skiing, including my helmet, goggles, and outerwear, lives in one bin, and any extra items we keep on hand for when friends and family visit lives in the backup bin. This means that instead of rifling through an overstuffed bin full of every pair of gloves and goggles we own just to pack them into another bag every time we want to go skiing, we can just grab our 鈥淎-team鈥� bins and toss them in the truck.

That last point is one worth reiterating: keeping our bins stocked with exactly what we need simplifies the packing process immensely. Recently, for instance, we headed to Taos Ski Valley after work for a weekend of skiing. We tossed our skis, boots, and two bins in the van and were out the door in minutes鈥攁 process that has taken us significantly longer in the past.

Dos and Don’ts for Gear Storage

• Don鈥檛 waste your time making things look beautiful and laying out gear on a pegboard wall. Your garage isn鈥檛 an REI.
• Think hard before investing time in building your own 鈥渂in rack鈥� or other DIY setup that will take too much time.
• Keep gear organized by sport but also deploy the A- and B-team system. Put the stuff you almost always use in the A-team bin and the backup/extra things in the B-team bin.
• Pony up for nice bins.
• Don鈥檛 use see-thru bins.
• Don鈥檛 hang packs on a wall鈥攊t takes up too much space.
• Keep your bike(s) where you can access them easily.
• Pair down, but don鈥檛 Marie Kondo yourself into tossing things you鈥檒l miss one day, even if you rarely use it.
• Use whatever space you have wisely.

The Tools We Used

The Project Source Commander 27 Gallon Tote

In the past I鈥檝e used whatever bins, milk crates, and shelves I鈥檝e had on hand to organize my gear. That meant a hodgepodge of cheap, clear plastic bins that often broke or were missing lids, so this time around we invested in a new set of high-quality bins that will hopefully last.

We bought 20 of these (they鈥檙e pretty much identical to the you can find at Home Depot), which get great reviews and are, in my opinion, the perfect size. They seem tough enough to toss in the back of a truck without worry, are stackable, have very secure lids, and are large enough to house things like backpacks without getting overstuffed.

I also wanted bins that were not see through for aesthetic reasons鈥攊t鈥檚 just looks less cluttered than bins that show their contents (plus, we know what鈥檚 in each bin and don鈥檛 need to see inside).

5-Tier Industrial Duty Steel Freestanding Garage Storage Shelving Unit

We toyed with the idea of building a like the ones that have been all the rage on TikTok and Pinterest in the last few years but ultimately went with this from Home Depot. Each shelf supports 1,800 pounds and fits four of the 27-gallon bins perfectly. It was about $100 more expensive than the materials needed to build our own, but I guarantee it鈥檚 sturdier, and it took only 15 minutes to put together versus the several hours of time it would鈥檝e taken us to build one.

It might not be as Pinterest-worthy, but it鈥檚 a hell of a lot more practical鈥攖he way those bin racks are built means you can only pull the bin straight in and out to access its contents, which can make things challenging in tight spaces. But these shelves are a little wider, which makes it easier to maneuver the bins on them. We also re-used a smaller, wire-rack shelf we already had for bulky items鈥攍ike our coolers, camp chairs, and archery targets鈥攖hat wouldn鈥檛 fit in the bins.

Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage Hang Rails

To store bikes, skis and add a bit more shelving off the ground, we installed by TK. We鈥檝e used this system before, and are big fans of its versatility and sturdiness. I installed a few rails along one wall of the room and hung our bikes using the . I鈥檓 a fan of those hooks in particular because they鈥檙e rated for 50lbs, which is higher than other brands like Kobalt or Craftsman you can find at the hardware store and means you can hang e-bikes from them if you want. I also installed a couple of metal shelves for fly rods, and a that sits high off the ground for ski boots and sleeping bags. (We had issues with mice nesting in our boots when we kept them on the ground in the past.)

Half Size Sidio Crate

In addition to the big, 27-gallon totes, I also used three Sidio Crates to house small items that didn’t fit into the A/B system. I have one for 鈥済ear repair鈥� items, one for headlamps and walkie talkies, and one for various chargers and cables.

How It’s Working So Far听

I鈥檓 sure we鈥檒l make some tweaks to this whole setup the longer we use it, but so far, we鈥檙e in love. Our new bin system is keeping us vastly more organized than before, and it has also dramatically simplified packing for trips.

The unintended benefit of all this is that it freed up a lot of room in our garage, and made it a听 much nicer space, too. I used to keep everything鈥攆rom outdoor gear to homebrewing equipment to automotive tools to yard cleaning tools鈥攊n the garage, utilizing every inch of available space. That created an area that was often pretty overwhelming to even stand in, let alone try to find the gear I was looking for.

By dedicating a space specifically to our outdoor gear, we can now even park a car in the garage鈥攜ou know, what a garage is actually for. You don鈥檛 need a big house with tons of rooms or, in my case, a barn to make this idea work. My friend turned a spare closet into his gear room, and a simple backyard shed can also work great for this.

The biggest takeaway: If you鈥檝e got a lot of equipment and your life revolves around getting outside, create a dedicated space for it, and consider mixing up how you organize all your gear.

The post How to Organize Your Gear Shed the Practical Way appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

础听听of this article originally appeared on听Pinkbike.听

It’s easy to become part of an echo chamber. Pinkbike often gets lost in the finer points of mountain bike technology, from suspension platforms to frame flex. But what kind of questions are people asking about mountain biking outside the platform? For one, what are the best mountain bikes for beginners? Below, Pinkbike’s editors offer concise answers to the ten most common mountain bike-related questions on search engines, social media, and online forums.

1. What Is the Best Mountain Bike for Beginners?

One you can afford. Don’t let the average mountain biker’s obsession with technology make you think you need all the latest features to have fun.

If you’re new to the sport, getting advice and after-sales support from a local shop can be invaluable. On the other hand, if you’re happy to take more risk and willing to do your own research, second-hand or direct sales bikes offer less daunting prices.

You may hear that you simply have to start mountain biking on a hardtail because it teaches you better skills. The truth is it teaches different skills. Hardtails are the way to go for those on a tight budget (under around $1,500 if buying new) as the cheapest full-suspension bikes are usually too compromised to be worth recommending.

If you’ve got a bigger budget, a solid trail bike with 130-160 millimeters of suspension travel and modern geometry should help build confidence (and with it, skill) faster and more painlessly than the sketchy hardtails many of us learned to ride on. Get a bike that’s appropriate for the trails you want to ride most often, but has the potential to tackle more challenging terrain as your skills improve.

2. How Much Does a Good Mountain Bike Cost?

You certainly don’t need to splash out for a top-end bike to get something that performs just as well. For a bare-bones entry-level hardtail, budget around $1,500 for one that will allow you to get stuck into some serious riding. But if you want a full-suspension bike that’s going to satisfy a keen mountain biker, the best bang-for-buck is usually around $3,000 if buying new. The more you can afford up to that amount, the better the bike you can get, but above that, the benefits soon start to plateau.

The good news is that it’s a buyer’s market right now so there are lots of good deals if you shop around.

3. How Do I Maintain my Mountain Bike?

1. Wash it when it’s dirty.
2. Clean and lubricate the chain after every ride. After washing the bike, run it through a rag to wipe off dirt and water, then lubricate it with mountain-bike-specific chain lube.
3. Check the tire pressures before every ride (see question eight).
4. Regularly do an “M-check,” inspecting for loose bolts, play, or worn parts. Starting at the rear wheel, check the brake, tire, axle and derailleur, then move on to the saddle and seatpost, then the cranks, bottom bracket and pedals, then the cockpit and headset, and finally the front wheel and brake. These five locations make a capital “M” shape, which makes it easy to remember.
5. Have the suspension serviced and brakes bled at least once per year.

4. What Are the Benefits of Full Suspension Versus a Hardtail?

The obvious benefit to a full suspension bike is that it cushions the impacts on rough terrain, making it easier to ride fast without getting bounced off-line or having your teeth rattled loose. They also offer more grip because the wheels are more consistently pressed into the ground. Most serious riders and racers use full-suspension bikes for every discipline these days, from downhill to cross country. Even gravel bikes sometimes have suspension now.

On the other hand, hardtails are usually much less expensive鈥攐r offer better parts and frame quality for the same price鈥攎aking them the go-to option for those on a tight budget. There’s less to go wrong and no pivots or rear shock to service, too. Apples-to-apples, hardtails are usually lighter and transmit slightly more of your pedal power to the ground, making them fractionally faster on smooth climbs (this is why hardtails still get used occasionally for smoother cross-country courses). Also, some (strange) people just prefer the challenge of riding without rear suspension.

5. How Do You Choose the Right Frame Size?

These days, most manufacturers provide a size guide on the geometry tab of their website; this is a reliable indicator for most people. There’s often a range of rider heights that overlap between two sizes. In this case, size down if you want more agile handling or size up if you want more stability for fast terrain.

For more on this, see our guide to modern bike sizing. If possible, try and arrange a test ride or talk to the manufacturer for a personalised recommendation.

6. What Are the Best Upgrades for My Mountain Bike?

It depends on what components your bike has, but common upgrades that make a big difference without costing the earth include comfy grips and a saddle that fit your body better; tubeless tires that are appropriate to the riding you usually do, and a dropper post if you don’t already have one. Better brakes can massively improve confidence too, but you don’t always have to spring for a whole set – bigger rotors (larger diameter or thicker) and fresh brake pads (sintered for wet weather) can boost power and consistency.

7. What鈥檚 the Difference Between Cross-Country, Trail, Enduro, and Downhill Bikes?

Cross country (XC) races are usually won or lost on the climbs, so XC bikes are designed to excel when going uphill, with minimum weight and efficient suspension. Modern examples have 100-120 millimeters of suspension travel and can weigh as little as 24 pounds. Descending is still important, especially in modern cross country, so XC bikes often have dropper posts and slack head angles, but the geometry is still less confidence-inspiring than trail bikes. Also, the handlebars are typically much lower. Almost all modern XC bikes have 29-inch wheels.

“Trail” isn’t a racing discipline, so trail bikes are designed to be fun. They should be light enough to enjoy rather than endure climbs but usually with a stronger emphasis on descending capability. They typically have 130-150 millimeters of suspension travel which makes them pretty capable when the trail gets hectic but not so much that they feel lethargic in flowy terrain. Most have 29-inch wheels, though recently many have a 27.5-inch wheel at the back or the option to run either.

Enduro bikes may look like trail bikes, but they’re designed with much more bias towards descending. In enduro racing, it’s only the descents that are timed, so climbing performance takes a back seat (although some enduro bikes climb surprisingly well). They have 160-180 millimeters of travel, tough tires, big brakes and burly components. Many enduro bikes weigh well over of 35 pounds. Some have 29-inch wheels front and rear and some have a 27.5-inch wheel at the back. Many can accept either rear wheel size.

Downhill bikes are not designed to be pedaled uphill at all. They have 200 millimeters of suspension travel or more, stiff dual-crown forks, and close-ratio gearing. Because they do not need a dropper post or wide-range cassette, they are often no heavier than enduro bikes. In recent years, most have moved to mixed wheels (29-inch front, 27.5-inch rear) though some can still accept 29-inch wheels at both ends.

Mountain bike disciplines are more of a spectrum than distinct categories; it’s perfectly possible to take your trail bike on a cross-country ride and visa-versa. There are also tongue-in-cheek sub-categories that seek to split the difference even further, such as “downcountry” (a compromise between trail and XC) or “all-mountain,” which fits in between trail and enduro.

8. What Tire Pressure Should I Run on My Mountain Bike?

This varies depending on rider weight, tire construction, terrain, and riding style. But a good place to start is to ignore the pressures printed on the tire sidewall鈥攖hey’re usually a maximum rather than a recommendation. Most riders should start at pressures between 20 psi and 30 psi. Go towards the lower end of that range if you’re lighter, less confident, or riding slippy terrain. Go higher if you’re heavier, riding hard, or the trails are rocky. It’s usually a good idea to run about 3 psi more pressure in the back tire than the front, as it takes more weight.

Use a pressure gauge to measure tire pressures before each ride and experiment to find what works for you. It doesn’t have to be a fancy gauge, but ideally, it should be the same one every time. Usually, you’re looking for the lowest pressure you can get away with before the tire starts to collapse in corners or when you start to feel the tire hitting the rim when riding over rocks.

Tubeless repair plugs can be surprisingly effective. (Photo: Richard Cunningham)

9. How Do I Repair a Puncture on a Trail?

Option 1: If it’s a tubeless tire, find the hole and push a puncture repair plug into it. Afterwards, trim the excess. When you get home, you may want to stick a puncture repair patch to the inside of the tire. This will help long term, but just be sure to do so after cleaning the tire.

Option 2: If option 1 fails or the tire isn’t tubeless, insert an inner tube to get you home. When you get home you can patch the tire or the tube with a puncture repair kit.

Option 3: If you haven’t got a spare tube, remove the tube and locate the puncture. You can do this by inflating the tube with a pump. Fix the puncture with a patch kit.

Option 4: Borrow an inner tube from a friend in exchange for future beers.

Option 5: Give up. Cry. Walk home. Get back late. Cry more.

10. How Do I Improve My Technical Mountain-Biking Skills?

• Ride more.
• Book a coaching course.
• Regularly practice a short section of trail several times.
• Get your friends to film your riding so you can see where to improve.
• Watch Pinkbike’s .
• Ride more.

The post The Internet鈥檚 Most Common Mountain-Bike Tech Questions Answered appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

As a parent and an American during an election year, I had to make all sorts of crucial decisions in 2024. The听most difficult and important of all was which bike to bring with me on my summer vacation.

Each year at the end of August my family and I travel to Adirondack Park in upstate New York, where the cycling terrain includes paved climbs, gravel roads, and and rocky trails that disappear deep into the wilderness. Every spring, I start thinking seriously about which bicycle will have the privilege of accompanying me. The optimal choice is generally a rig听wide of both tire and gearing, and past standouts have been my A. Homer Hilsen and my LWB.

This year I figured I’d probably just bring one of those two bikes yet again, but at the very last second I made a bizarre and potentially foolhardy decision. Like George Costanza buying an ’89 Chrysler LeBaron because it once belonged to Midnight Cowboy star Jon Voigt, I ultimately went with a 1998 Trek Y-Foil 77, on loan to me from the collection, a historic bike museum and shop based in Washington.

Like the LeBaron, the Y-Foil 77 was also听of highly dubious celebrity provenance, having once belonged to the late writer and bon vivant George Plimpton.

It may seem far-fetched, but Classic Cycle also to “prove” it that it was owned by the Paper Tiger author. Who am I to argue?

As a rider with traditional (some might even say old-fashioned) tastes who likes normal diamond-shaped frames made from metal and who has been one of the cycling media’s most outspoken critics of the carbon fiber hegemony, I’ve always found the Y-Foil to be absurdly outlandish. It was hard to imagine myself even riding the thing, let alone liking it.听It seemed more like a triathlon bike than a road bike, which鈥eew. Yet the more I rode it, the more I began to appreciate it.

Sure, the bike only holds one water bottle at a time, and yes, the void where the seat tube is supposed to be makes it look like a device made to bore holes in giant wheels of cheese. (The unorthodox frame design also makes sure you get every last bit of road spray should it rain.) But I rarely carry more than one bottle anyway. Despite its outrageous appearance it handles just as any well-designed road bike should, plus the beam design of the frame provides just a tiny bit of suspension which makes the ride surprisingly smooth and comfortable.

Trek only sold the Y-Foil for two years, in 1998 and 1999, and since then the bike has acquired a bit of a cult following鈥攑artially because they’re kind of rare and some people think they’re cool-looking, but also because of the aforementioned smooth ride quality, which is unusual for a road bike that only clears a 25mm tire. I’d never been a member of the Y-Foil cult, and so I knew little about the bike’s history, apart from vaguely recalling the design having been banned from competition or something.

So I started reading up on their history, and was surprised to learn that not only wasn’t it a triathlon bike, but it had supposedly been designed with Paris-Roubaix and the cobbled classics in mind, and early versions even听had a suspension-corrected fork. This explained the pinched-looking front end of the frame as well as the elongated fork crown, which Paul Johnson of Classic Cycle likens to a pair of high-waisted jeans.

The revelation that the Y-Foil was听designed not for triathlons but for the cobblestones of Europe was almost harder to believe than the whole George Plimpton thing. So to find out for sure I reached out to Trek, who connected me with Jim Colegrove, a now-retired engineer who worked on the Y-Foil.

In the nineties, Colegrove told me, cyclists (or at least bike companies) were having a love affair with beam bikes. Trek was also having lots of success with . So the idea behind the Y-Foil was to bring the design over to the road and to take听taking advantage of beam-maina.

As Colegrove and the team at Trek saw it, when it came to road-oriented beam bikes, 2001 model was the one to beat, though they also felt it had three fatal flaws: lateral deflection (they called it “wag”); bob (the feeling that you’re sitting on a diving board); and weight (the Zipp was quite heavy). So Trek set out to design a Y-frame听road bike that would suffer from none of those problems. At the same time, they also saw an opportunity to incorporate a , which people at Trek were convinced was “going to be a thing,” as Colegrove puts it.

Not everybody on the team agreed, and of course suspension forks on road bikes听didn’t turn out to be a thing at all (at least not until gravel happened). Still,听the 1992, 1993, and 1994 editions of Paris-Roubaix had all been won on Rock Shox forks. Trek planned to offer the new Y-frame road bike to pro teams, and so the suspension fork made it onto the bike. (Or at least the suspension fork compatibility did. Colegrove doesn’t know if anybody actually ended up using a suspension fork on a Y-Foil, and I’ve certainly never seen a squishy Y-Foil either in the wild or on the Internet.)

Alas, just as Trek launched the Y-Foil, the Union Cycliste Internationale, cycling’s governing body, ruled that road bike frames “shall be of a traditional pattern, i.e. built around a main triangle.” This rule meant the pros wouldn’t be able to ride the Y-Foil in any race under the auspices of the UCI, which is to say all the races that matter to people when they’re deciding which expensive road bike to buy.

Colegrove wonders if perhaps the UCI may have made the rule specifically to foil (see what I did there?) Trek in order to protect innocent European bike manufacturers from a big bad American company with the capability of producing futuristic aero bikes at scale. However, it’s worth noting the ruling affected European bikes too, such as, so perhaps they really did just want to uphold tradition and spare us all from a nightmarish all-recumbent pro cycling future.

Of course there was still nothing keeping you from buying a Y-Foil to race听a triathlon, or your local USA Cycling-sanctioned criterium, or just riding it for fun and enjoying the head-turning looks and aero benefits. (According to Colegrove the wind tunnel results showed the Y-Foil to be “significantly” more aerodynamic than a traditional frame.) But the bike industry doesn’t work like that, and since the Y-Foil would never be seen under the winner of the Tour de France it had limited appeal and went into, as Colgrove puts it, a “black hole.”

Despite the aero factor it wasn’t a true triathlon bike, nor would it ever have a pro cycling pedigree. While the bike did make it into production, the last year it appeared in the Trek catalogue was 1999鈥攖he same year Lance Armstrong won his first Tour de France on a stock Trek 5500 with a diamond frame.

25 years later, all of this lends the bike a certain pathos, and since I was enjoying the bike much more than I thought I would I figured I’d bring it with me on vacation as sort of a consolation prize. Just across Lake Champlain听 from New York State lies Vermont, a land criss-crossed with gravel roads, where the bike could finally taste the terrain for which it had been designed, yet few Y-Foils have ever experienced.

Road cyclists have recently embraced wider tires. With cyclists tackling roads with rougher surfaces, 25-millimeter tires鈥攚hich is the widest a Y-Foil will allow鈥攁re now considered too narrow.

However, I made it through the roughest sections without washout or pinch flat, and otherwise the bike was not only competent but smooth, the beam offering just enough flex to allow me to comfortably shift my weight onto the rear wheel. Having successfully negotiated the gravel roads of Vermont, I rolled onto the ferry to Ticonderoga, NY.

Ticonderoga is steeped in history and the things that made this country great. There’s the eponymous , the eponymous (they weren’t made there, but that’s where the graphite used to come from), and there’s the , which draws Trekkies from all over the galaxy.

At no point in our conversation did Colegrove mention the Star Fleet Insignia serving as an inspiration for the design of the Y-Foil, but I have to wonder if perhaps it crept in there subconsciously.

If you’re a fan of technical innovation you may think we lost out when the UCI banned bikes Y-Foil, and if you’re a traditionalist you probably think we dodged a bullet. I’d certainly count myself as a traditionalist. But more than anything I’m also a bike nerd. I can appreciate and enjoy this relic of what might have been.safe in the knowledge that it is no longer a threat to the supremacy of my beloved diamond frame.

The Y-Foil may not have been a commercial success, but Trek did accomplish what it set out to do, which was design a Y-shaped bike without wag, bob, or excessive weight that performs like a good road bike should. I enjoyed every ride with it on my summer vacation, and by choosing it I don’t think I missed out on a thing鈥xcept maybe that second water bottle.

The post I Took a Star-Trek Inspired Journey on a Retro-Futuristic Bike appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

础听 of this article, “What Exactly Is ‘Outdated’ Mountain Bike Geometry?” originally appeared on Pinkbike.听

If you’re in the market for a secondhand bike that’s been around for a few years, you might ask yourself if a modern mountain bike really handles better than an older one. A mountain bike’s geometry (the shape, angles, and size of its frame) defines how it rides more fundamentally than any other aspect of its design, and mountain bike geometry has transformed over recent years. So what exactly counts as “outdated” versus “new-school” geometry these days? And do older mountain bikes necessarily ride worse than new ones?

First off, let’s be specific about the differences between modern and “old school” geometry. The reach, head angle (HA), wheelbase (WB), and effective seat angle (SA)鈥攄emonstrated below鈥攁re the key measurements that have changed over the years.

The reach, head angle (HA), wheelbase (WB) and effective seat angle (SA) are the key measurements that have changed over the years. (Photo: Devinci Django Geometry)

• Longer Reach: Modern bikes feature a longer reach (the horizontal distance between the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube), providing more room to maneuver and making the bike feel more stable at high speeds and in technical terrain. This is usually teamed with shorter stems (40-50 millimeters) that keep the cockpit from feeling too stretched out, while also making the steering more predictable and direct. Modern trail and enduro bikes typically have a reach figure of around 450-460 millimeters in a size medium and over 500 millimeters in the largest size. Ten years ago, typical reach numbers were around 30-50 millimeters shorter.
• Slacker Head Angle: The angle of the steering axis and fork has become much less steep. Modern trail and enduro bikes have head angles around 63-65 degrees. Ten years ago, it was more like 66-69 degrees. This makes the bike more stable on descents, as it positions the front wheel further out in front and makes the steering less twitchy, reducing the risk of the front wheel “jackknifing” (turning suddenly away from straight ahead) in technical sections. The downside is it’s lazier and heavier steering at low speeds.
• Longer Wheelbase: A longer wheelbase contributes to greater stability at high speeds and over rough terrain, making the bike more confidence-inspiring and less prone to pitching. The downside is more steering input is required to negotiate tight turns.
• Steeper (effective) Seat Angle: The effective seat tube angle (the slope of a line connecting the bottom bracket to the top of the seat post) is much steeper in modern bikes. Typical angles have gone from 73-75 degrees ten years ago to 76-80 degrees today. This positions the rider more forward, improving pedaling efficiency for climbing, while making it easier to keep enough weight on the front tire to steer and balance. Such seat angles were not practical when reach figures were shorter, because they would place the rider’s hips too close to the handlebar.

How Modern Geometry Translates on the Trail

Modern bikes are designed to excel at higher speeds and on more demanding terrain than their predecessors. Their geometry makes them more stable and confidence-inspiring when tackling the kind of terrain usually reserved for downhill bikes back in the day: steep chutes, big rocks, and big air. This may come at the expense of maneuverability at slow speeds and shallow gradients, but thanks to steeper seat tube angles, modern trail bikes are more capable when pointed uphill as well as down. Overall, it’s not controversial to say that modern bikes ride better than those of ten years ago鈥攎ostly thanks to their geometry. But what about a bike from just four or five years ago?

The truth is that mountain bike geometry is still evolving. There never will come a time when bike designers say, “Yep, that’s it鈥攖hese are the numbers bikes should have from now on. Let’s all go home.” But geometry trends that were going gangbusters in the 2010s have certainly slowed down lately. The ($4,000) above hasn’t been updated in almost half a decade, but they don’t look out of place today.

If you’re in the market for a bike that’s much older than 2020, it will generally have noticeably different geometry and handling compared to a new equivalent, and the further back you go, the bigger the gap will be. There are exceptions, such as the 听辞谤听, which had similar geometry to today’s bikes (and in some ways more extreme) back in 2015. Mondraker was another pioneer, with modern reach numbers by听.

Can You Modernize an Old Mountain Bike鈥檚 Geometry?

Just because a bike has been around a while, that doesn’t mean it needs to be replaced to experience up-to-date handling. Take my other half’s 2015 Mondraker Foxy. With a 160-millimeter fork (up from the 140-millimeter stock fork), a -2 degree headset and the saddle slammed fully forward on the seatpost, its key numbers (reach, head angle, wheelbase, effective seat angle) aren’t far off what you’d find new in 2024. Sure, it still has non-Boost axles, a pair of 27.5-inch wheels and abominable cable routing. But as far as handling goes, it’s solid. Throw in an upgraded shock, tires, and brakes, and it still very much does the business.

So if you’re sitting on an older bike or considering buying one, bear in mind that you can learn from the latest crop of bikes without having to fork out for a brand new one.

The post What Exactly Is 鈥淥utdated鈥� Mountain-Bike Geometry? appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

础听 of this article originally appeared on Pinkbike.听

What do you look for in a helmet? Price, style, weight, ventilation and comfort are all important considerations, but the main purpose of a helmet is to keep your head safe when it hits the dirt. One piece of advice you’ll often hear is to buy the best one you can afford. But are more expensive options any safer? And do anti-rotation inserts like MIPS reduce the risk of concussion? Do mountain bike helmets protect your head better than road helmets?

If you want to know how good a helmet is at cushioning your brain, it’s not a good idea to experiment on yourself. Fortunately, the engineering department at听听has a state-of-the-art, independent helmet testing lab. They’ve been testing all sorts of sports helmets since 2011 and have put 235 cycling helmets including 73 mountain bike lids through their repeatable but realistic testing protocol.

How are they tested?

Virginia Tech has developed a test that’s specific to cycling helmets. You can read the full details听 but the basic version is that each tester is fitted onto a standard dummy “head” complete with acceleration and rotation sensors. The helmet is then dropped onto a hard surface such that it strikes it at six different impact locations around it. This is done at two different impact speeds (4.8 and 7.3 meters per second, or 17.3 and 26.3 kph). The lower speed is designed to replicate the most common impact speeds seen in the real world and the second is the most likely speed that results in concussion鈥攖hese numbers are derived from helmets that had been recovered from real-world crashes.

This is repeated twice, resulting in 24 test impacts for each model. For each test, the linear acceleration and rotational velocity of the dummy head are measured, and an algorithm is used to convert these numbers into an overall score. The scoring system uses the rotation and acceleration measurements to estimate the risk of concussion for each impact, then these results are weighted depending on how common each type of impact occurs during real-world cycling. This produces a single score that is proportional to the overall risk of concussion during cycling.

The lower the score, the lower the chance of concussion.

Any score below 14 gets a five-star rating. A model has to score below 19 to get four stars and be considered recommendable by Virginia Tech.

Are More Expensive Mountain-Bike Helmets Safer?

Sort of.

Of the four helmets costing $50 or less, none got close to a five-star rating (a score below 14); of the sixteen models costing $200 or more, all but one got five stars. All of the helmets that cost more than $100 received at least four stars (scored below 19), making them at least worthy of consideration according to Virginia Tech.

More expensive options tend to be safer on average, but there’s a lot of variation and many outliers as you can see in the scatter chart.

So the old maxim that you should spring for the best helmet you can afford isn’t a bad rule of thumb, but if you start with the data from Virginia Tech you can pick a very safe model without spending too much.

Which Helmets Stand Out?

The safest mountain-bike helmet tested so far is the , a three-quarter style version which scored 8.41 and costs $270. But the biggest outlier on the price-to-safety spectrum is the , which scored 8.55 and costs just $110. Based on Virginia Tech’s testing, that’s the model I’d suggest if the style and fit suit your needs.

Are Mountain-Bike Helmets Safer than Road Options?

Not really.

Some of the best (lowest scoring) models tested by Virginia Tech are road helmets, as are some of the worst, which could reflect the fact that more road versions have been tested. Looking at the scatter chart above, there is an even weaker relationship between cost and safety in the road world, perhaps because high-end road helmets are chasing aerodynamics more than impact absorption.

Impressively, three road models costing $80 or less scored below a 10. Chapeau to Giant, Lazer and Specialized for those.

Are MIPS Helmets Safer?

According to this data, yes.

The lowest-scoring (safest) mountain-bike helmet without MIPS is the beautifully named 6D ATB-2T, which scored 10.03, putting it in 12th place for mountain bikes. It has a conceptually similar technology called Omni-Directional Suspension (ODS). The next best is the POC Tectal Race SPIN, which ranked 29th and scored 11.67. It too has a similar technology called SPIN (Shearing Pad Inside), which POC has since听 in favour of MIPS.

So, the 11 best-scoring mountain-bike helmets all have MIPS; only two of the best thirty don’t have MIPS, and both of them have something similar.

However, the vast majority of the models on test have MIPS, especially the more expensive ones, so this isn’t as surprising as it sounds. Even so, the nine poorest-performing mountain-bike helmets all lack MIPS, and five of those cost $99 or more.

Also, the Troy Lee A1 Classic MIPS scored a respectable 11.65, while the MIPS-free Troy Lee A1 Drone scored a damning 19.35.

Some have suggested that the benefit of a MIPS liner may diminished in the real world because the rider’s hair (for those who have it) creates its own slip plane which does a similar job. But even if a thick head of hair can allow the helmet to rotate relative to the skull, that’s not to say it works as well as a MIPS liner, especially in听combination with hair. According to MIPS, hair isn’t as slippery as you think once the G-forces are pressing your head into your helmet during a crash, whereas MIPS liners are designed to slide even under these huge compressive loads.

Besides, even if all that MIPS achieved was to improve outcomes for the bald, it would still be worth helmet manufacturers using it.

Are Full-Face Options Safer?

It’s not clear.

Virginia Tech isn’t testing face-on (chin bar) impacts, where full-face helmets obviously have an advantage. If you’re likely to land on your face, best to wear a full-face helmet. But when tested in the same way as open-face helmets, using the same six impact locations, the full-face helmets don’t score better. This is perhaps surprising given they are designed for downhill and enduro use, including racing.

Virginia Tech has only tested four full-face helmets so far, which isn’t enough to make broad conclusions, but they don’t stand out as you might expect鈥攖he best full-face helmet (Bluegrass Vanguard) ranks 15th among mountain-bike helmets. Having said that, all four received five stars (scored less than 14), and the average score was 12.2, slightly better than open-face mountain-bike helmets, which averaged 13.3. We would need more data to know if full-face helmets generally do better or worse on Virginia Tech’s test procedure, but the four tested so far are merely midpack.

So while full-faces offer better coverage, they’re not necessarily offering better protection when tested on the same impact locations.

Limitations and Conclusions

It’s worth underlining that Virginia Tech haven’t tested every helmet on the market and some on their database are older than others, so it’s probably not fair to make general comparisons between brands or to say that the best they’ve tested is the best there is.

As with any laboratory test, there is a tradeoff between repeatability and realism. Virginia Tech can’t simulate every type of crash, impact speed or head shape. A different test with different variables might come up with different rankings, but Virginia Tech’s is probably the best independent data that’s publicly available. How a helmet fits your unique head is important for safety as well as comfort so it’s a good idea to try a few helmets on in a real-life bike shop, then pick one that scores well and fits well.

The post How to Pick a Safer Helmet, According to Science appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

It was only a matter of time. After all, my husband and I live in Boulder County, Colorado, one of the bike meccas of the U.S. where the joke is that the bike on the back of the car is often听worth more than the car itself鈥�. Besides being a hub for mountain-, gravel-, and road biking, Boulder is also a university town and exceptionally , meaning there are a lot of people who ride and own bikes here.听In other words, its a town ripe for the picking.

Most of our friends have had a bike (or two) stolen from a public bike rack in town, off the back of their car, out of their vehicle鈥檚 trunk, or even lifted right out of their garage. My husband and I counted ourselves lucky, until we recently, involuntarily joined the ranks of the sad and pissed-off bike-less.

At approximately 8:30 on a sunny Tuesday morning, someone rode up to our house on a black Huffy mountain bike, walked into our open garage while my husband was in the house, helped themselves to his hanging off a wall-mounted rack at the back of the garage, then pedaled off to god knows where.

The only signs of a crime were a bike hook torn out of our garage wall and the Huffy abandoned in our driveway.

We spent very little time in the denial stage of our loss鈥攁gain, this is sadly commonplace in Boulder County鈥攁nd instead jumped right into problem-solving. If there鈥檚 one good thing about living in a place where bike theft is the norm, it鈥檚 that everyone has helpful advice for what to do to try to recover your bike or recoup the financial loss. Here鈥檚 what we learned.

Tips for Reporting a Stolen Bicycle听

File a Police Report

The very first thing you should do when your bike is stolen is file a police report. Cities have different instructions for filing reports of theft, so be sure to check your city鈥檚 instructions online. In Boulder, you can file a police report online and there鈥檚 even a to fill out if the report involves a stolen bicycle. Alternatively, you can call your city鈥檚 non-emergency police dispatch line to file the report by phone.

Be sure to have your bike鈥檚 manufacturer, exact model name, model year, and serial number on hand, along with other helpful details like frame color, specifications, etc. If you bought your bike new from a shop, you can get most of this info from your sales receipt. If you no longer have the sales receipt, call the shop where you purchased your bike to see if they still have a record of the sale; if they do, that record will include the details of your bike.

Once you file a police report, temper your expectations. Chances are your local police department has their work cut out for them dealing with more serious crimes than bike theft. Don鈥檛 expect them to dust your car or garage door for prints to find the perp. Unless your stolen bike falls into their lap while dealing with another incident or crime (which does happen, so don鈥檛 give up all hope), there鈥檚 little the police can or will do about it.

The main reason for filing a police report is because it鈥檚 a requirement for filing an insurance claim (more on that below).

Register Your Bike on Bike Index

If you haven鈥檛 already, register all of your bikes on , a website run by a non-profit that helps users locate stolen bicycles with the help of other users and police departments across the country.

You can register your bikes on the site as soon as you acquire a new bike, or retroactively when you have a bike stolen. All you have to do is create a free account and add your bike details like manufacturer, serial number, frame color, and a photo.

Once your bike is in the system, you鈥檝e essentially created a dog tag for it. If it gets stolen, you mark it as lost or stolen on the site and post about your bike across Bike Index’s social media platforms. If other Bike Index users or partners (like police departments, bike shops, etc.) locate your bike, they can notify you via the site.

Create Alerts on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, and eBay

Often, expensive bikes are stolen for the purpose of making a quick buck. Bike thieves might try to sell your stolen bike on popular online marketplaces like , , or . You can create alerts for new postings on these marketplaces that match your bike description.

You鈥檒l need to create a free account on each, but from there, type in your search term (e.g. 鈥�2023 Santa Cruz Tallboy鈥�) and hit the notification icon to sign up for email notifications to let you know when posts matching your search term go up.

Spread the Word

Remember, there鈥檚 strength in numbers. In this day and age, there are many ways to enlist your community to help you find your bike. You can stop into local bike shops and second-hand gear stores to give them a heads up about your stolen bike鈥攊t might turn up in their shop for service or for sale.

You should also post about your stolen bike on , , , , etc. to get your community to help keep eyes and ears open for you. Talk to your neighbors IRL to let them know about the theft鈥攜ou never know whose home security cameras might have caught some valuable footage.

How to Recover the Financial Loss

File an Insurance Claim (If It Makes Sense)

I hate to say it, but chances are, you won鈥檛 recover your stolen bike. The odds just aren鈥檛 in your favor: According to the of the 646 bicycles reported stolen within in the city in 2023, only 54 were recovered (that’s 8.7 percent). It’s been three weeks since our bike was stolen, and so far, no signs of it.

We know of only one lucky friend who was able to recover a stolen bicycle after pedaling around his neighborhood and just happening upon the thief riding his easily-recognizable custom bike. After confronting the thief on on the spot (a risky approach that police advice against), the thief abandoned the bike and ran for it. Like I said, this friend was one of the lucky few.

So if your bike was stolen from your home and you have homeowner鈥檚 or renter鈥檚 insurance with a low deductible, go ahead and file an insurance claim as soon as you鈥檝e filed a police report.

Generally, both homeowner鈥檚 insurance and renter鈥檚 insurance cover the theft of personal property, but that鈥檚 not a guarantee that you鈥檒l be able to recoup the value of your stolen bicycle. Our homeowner鈥檚 insurance (through State Farm) covers theft of personal property, but our annual claim deductible is $3,800鈥攁bout $800 more than the Santa Cruz Tallboy was worth brand new.

In our case, it made no sense to file a claim since there would have been no insurance payout. It鈥檚 also worth noting that many insurance policies will only pay out the actual cash value of your bike, not the total cost of replacement. So unless your bike is brand new, expect the insurance company to account for depreciation. Some insurers also have a sub-limit for bikes, e.g. $1,500.

The lesson we learned here: We should buy more expensive bikes (#bikemath).

Consider Additional Personal Property Insurance听

While our homeowner鈥檚 insurance policy wouldn鈥檛 cover our stolen bike, we learned that many insurance companies offer supplemental coverage for personal property (or 鈥溾��), which includes sports equipment.

There鈥檚 an additional premium for this coverage鈥擲tate Farm quoted us $300 annually for $5,000 worth of coverage鈥攂ut there鈥檚 generally no deductible. Plus, your gear is insured wherever it is, so if your bike gets stolen outside of your home, that theft would be covered by personal property insurance.

Considering our lifestyle and the number of bikes and skis we own, the extra $300 per year is probably worth it. I always did fork over for every insurance policy known to man when I played the board game Life鈥攁nd I always won.

Read More

The Best Gravel Bikes of the Year
Our Favorite Trail Bikes听
The Best Road Bikes of 2024

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