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At home, hiker Jen Murphy is usually the one pushing the pace. But these treks in Europe taught her to slow down and embrace the local hospitality.

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After 10 Years Hiking Europe, These Are My 10 Favorite Treks

For years, I鈥檝e snubbed Europe鈥檚 mountains as soon as the ski season ended. For me, the Alps were long synonymous with winter: hut-to-hut ski tours in the Italian Dolomites, shots of schnapps at apr猫s in Austria, and cozy cabins and hearty meals of fondue and raclette in Switzerland.

Around a decade ago, a work assignment took me to the Savoie region of France in June. The landscape was even more dazzling when it wasn鈥檛 covered in snow. Azul alpine lakes shimmered. Vast meadows were carpeted in Technicolor wildflowers. Cows, bedecked with giant bells, grazed in the bright green pastures. And the mountain huts that warmed me in winter fueled me with cheese souffl茅s and glasses of crisp ros茅.

Yes, we have plenty of epic hiking opportunities at home in the States, but there was something special about immersing myself in a different culture at such a slow and undistracted pace. When I hike at home in Boulder, Colorado, I tend to be a mountain goat racing to the summit. But hiking in Europe has taught me how to dial it back, embrace the local hospitality, and savor the views.

I鈥檒l admit, some of Europe鈥檚 most storied hikes, such as Spain鈥檚 Camino de Santiago, and the multi-country Tour du Mont Blanc, intimidate me. If you don鈥檛 have a month鈥檚 vacation or mountaineering skills, you have plenty of other options.

The following are some of my favorite multi-day hikes in Europe. I鈥檝e chosen a mix of both mellow and challenging trails; most can be broken up in sections if you don鈥檛 want to tackle the entire route in one go. All require some planning and basic fitness levels.

Newer hikers, or those who want an assist with logistics, should consider booking a self-guided or fully-guided trip. Not only does this guarantee accommodations (mountain huts book up fast in Europe, just like campsites at America鈥檚 top parks), but it also eases your load by taking care of luggage transfers. And fully-guided trips are a great option for nervous solo transfers, or nerds like me who want to know the name of every wildflower and distant peak and understand the history of the region. Happy trails.

1. Mare 脿 Mare Nord, Corsica

Woman hikes along coast Corsica
The Mare 脿 Mare Nord trail, in Corsica, covers more than 7,700 feet of elevation over 86 miles. (Photo: Getty Images/AscentXmedia)

Distance: 86 miles
Effort: Challenging

Why we love it: A less congested and less demanding, yet equally scenic alternative to Corsica鈥檚 mythical G20 long distance hiking trail, the point-to-point Mare 脿 Mare Nord is bookended by stunning beaches in the village of Moriani on the island鈥檚 east coast and the fishing port of Carg猫se on the west. Sporty, but not technical, the trail covers more than 7,700 feet of elevation as it winds through chestnut forests, past wild gorges and natural rock pools, and to sleepy mountain villages and coastal towns steeped in tradition.

Need to know: The trail is broken into 12 stages, each taking between four to nine hours. It can typically be completed in 10 to 12 days between mid-April through November. The trail is well-marked with orange paint. Accommodation options can be found and should be reserved in advance. Local tour company offers an 11-day self-guided trip that includes luggage transfers between accommodations (a mix of hotels, mountain huts, and one night camping) as well as most meals (from $1,630).

2. The Causeway Coastal Route, Northern Ireland

Man standing on rock on sea
The Giant’s Causeway has 40,000 interlocking basalt columns. (Photo: Getty Images/Marco Bottigelli)

Distance: 33 miles
Effort: Moderate

Why we love it: While it鈥檚 primarily known as a road trip, Northern Ireland鈥檚 rugged Causeway Coast also makes for an epic hike. A series of clifftop paths and small coastal roads stretch from Belfast to Derry, taking in the raw landscapes that have served as film locations for 鈥淕ame of Thronesand 鈥淪tar Wars.鈥 The route showcases cliff top castles and wild beaches, but the UNESCO-listed Giant鈥檚 Causeway, with its 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, is the highlight.

Need to know: This relatively mellow hike is best attempted between June and October. Build in extra time for detours to friendly pubs and Bushmill鈥檚, Ireland鈥檚 oldest distillery. offers multiple variations of itineraries for this hike, including a seven-day group trip that tacks on some hiking in the craggy mountains of Glenveagh, Ireland鈥檚 second largest national park (from $3,255).

3. Laugavegur Trail, Iceland

Hiking big peaks Iceland
The drama of Iceland鈥檚 landscape is at its peak along the Laugavegur Trail. (Photo: Getty images/Julien Ratel)

Distance: 35 miles
Effort: Challenging

Why we love it: Petrified lava fields. Snow-crowned peaks. Electric blue glaciers. Tussock meadows. The drama of Iceland鈥檚 landscape is at its peak along the Laugavegur Trail. Stretching across the heart of Iceland鈥檚 southern region, the trek begins in the highlands of Landmannalaugar, an area known for its hot springs and multi-hued rhyolite mountains, and concludes in the glacial valley of Th贸rsm枚rk. Most people conquer the trek in four to five days; overachievers tack on another two days and trek over the next pass to Sk贸gar to see the nearly 200-foot Sk贸gafoss waterfall.

Need to know: Simple mountain huts (from $65) and tents (from $20) are open on the trail from June 20 to September 17, 2025 and must be . Icelandic Mountain Guides offers ($2,503) and ($1,248) treks.

4. Cortina d鈥橝mpezzo to Alta Badia: the Dolomites, Italy

Rifugio in Alps
The Dolomites are some of the most mind-boggling mountains on the planet. (Photo: Giovanni De Sandre)

Distance: 37 miles
Effort: Moderate

Why we love it: The fang-like peaks of the Dolomites provide more than a stunning backdrop for trekking. They also deliver a lesson in history, geology, culture, and cuisine. The journey between the Venetian-influenced town of Cortina d鈥橝mpezzo and the Ladin-influenced villages of Alta Badia in South Tyrol takes hikers through mugo pine and larch trees, past World War I tunnels dug into the mountainsides, around the fortress-like Sella Massif, and into the heart of Puez-Odle Nature Park. Along the way, you鈥檒l stay in charming rifugios that serve typical local dishes such as canederli (bread dumplings).

Need to know: Mid-June to early October is the best time for hiking in this region. Most people devote one week to this trek, planning for four to seven hours of hiking a day. You鈥檒l want to prep your legs for some serious ascents and descents. The Dolomites are known for their vast network of rifugios, which offer private rooms and shared rooms, home-cooked meals, and some, like (from $85 for a dorm-style room), now feature saunas. , one of the region鈥檚 most respected adventure operators, offers seven-day guided (from $4,570) and self-guided itineraries ($1,920) that include transfers, rifugios, and meals.

5. The Great Glen Way, Scotland

Hiking in Ireland
Wilderness Scotland offers self-guided trekking along the Great Glen Way, taking you past incredible scenery including Ben Nevis and Loch Ness. (Photo: Courtesy of Wilderness Scotland)

Distance: 79
Effort: Moderate

Why we love it: The West Highland Way is considered the granddaddy of Scotland鈥檚 long-distance hikes, but this shorter, tamer coast-to-coast route is a fantastic option for less experienced hikers thanks to its gentler terrain and more gradual ascents. The trail begins beneath the slopes of Ben Nevis, Britain鈥檚 highest mountain, and stretches east across the Highlands to its terminus in Inverness. You鈥檒l be properly warmed up for the second half, when the trail gradually gets more challenging as it winds up the hillsides above the famed Loch Ness. Keep an eye out for Nessie.

Need to know: Your best chance of avoiding midges (pesky, gnat-like flies) is to hike in April or May鈥攁dded bonus, the flowers will be in bloom. Summer is warmer and drier, but more crowded. The leaves are golden in fall, but the midges are still around. The trail is dotted with humble guesthouses and B&B-style accommodations. Give yourself four to eight days to complete the trek. runs an eight-day self-guided itinerary that ranges from seven to 18 miles per day and includes meals, accommodations, and luggage transfers (from $1,302).

6. GR92 Mediterranean Trail, Spain

Costal town Spain hike
Many hikers choose to tackle the first four stages of the GR92 Mediterranean Trail on the dreamy Costa Brava. (Photo: Getty Images/Eloi Omella)

Distance: 348 miles
Effort: Challenging

Why we love it: Spain鈥檚 answer to Italy鈥檚 iconic Cinque Terre trek, this long-distance trail is broken into that hug the Catalan coastline. Throughout parts, you can dip your toes in the sea at quiet beaches. At other points, you鈥檙e admiring the azure waters and rocky coastline from high up in the massifs of the Catalan coastal mountain range.

Need to know: The entire trail can take anywhere from eight to 16 days depending on your pace. Many people choose to tackle the first four stages (about 42 miles) on the dreamy Costa Brava. Stage one begins near the French border in the town of Portbou, which can be reached by a 2 hour 30 minute train ride from Barcelona. From there, you鈥檒l pass through the fishing town Cadaqu茅s, an artist haven where Salvador Dal铆 found inspiration. The fourth stage provides hikers a glimpse of the wetlands in Aiguamolls de l’Empord脿 Natural Park. The Mediterranean climate allows for hiking year round. Be warned, summer can get hot, even on the coast. Outfitter offers an easy, week-long self-guided itinerary on the GR92鈥檚 Costa Brava stretch (from $1,000).

7. Kesch Trek, Switzerland

Village in Alps
Bergun village sorrunded by colorful woods in the Albula region, canton of Graubunden, Switzerland. (Photo: Getty Images/Roberto Moiola)

Distance: 37
Effort: Moderate

Why we love it: Graub眉nden, Switzerland鈥檚 largest and highest altitude mountain region, is better known for its winter ski resorts, like St. Moritz, Davos, and Laax. But when summer arrives, it鈥檚 a hiker鈥檚 paradise. This classic jaunt between the Fl眉ela and Albula Passes engulfs hikers amid soaring peaks and glacial landscapes. During the hike, glimmering alpine lakes beckon hikers to cool off with a brisk dip. The trek can be completed in four days and connects to three of Switzerland鈥檚 comfiest mountain huts, including the solar-powered Kesch H眉tte, which has its own climbing garden with various bolted routes.

Need to know: The trek is accessible between July and September. Hut reservations are essential and dormitory rooms start at $55 per night. The trek鈥檚 three huts offer a bargain three-night package that includes half-board (breakfast and lunch) and optional picnic lunches for $500. The first day is relatively low-effort. If time allows, consider climbing to the 10,325-foot summit of Fl眉ela Schwarzhorn.

8. Bled to Lake Bohinj: the Julian Alps, Slovenia

A couple poses above a lake
The Alpine Association of Slovenia maintains more than 170 mountain shelters across a trail network of 6,200-plus miles. (Photo: Courtesy Macs 国产吃瓜黑料)

Distance: 42
Effort: Test-your-mettle challenging

Why we love it: The sparkling lakes of Bled and Bohinj are downright fairytale worthy, and Slovenia鈥檚 awesome hut system still flies under the radar. The Alpine Association of Slovenia maintains more than 170 mountain shelters across a trail network of 6,200-plus miles. This challenging route in the Julian Alps showcases medieval castles, plunging waterfalls, and the wild beauty of , home to seven lakes and Slovenia鈥檚 highest peak. Along the way, you鈥檒l pop into sleepy villages where locals will renew your energy with homemade brandy and schnapps.

Need to know: You鈥檒l want to mountain huts at least one week in advance during peak season in July and August (but it鈥檚 worth it to see the wildflowers in bloom). Huts start at $25 per person, per night. Note, some have limited water so showering might not be possible. runs an affordable, eight-day, self-guided trip that includes a mix of hut and hotel stays, luggage transfers, and meals (from $1,995).

9. Stubai High Trail, Austria

Alpine hut in Austria
At the Starkenburger hut on the Stubai High Trail, the hills are most definitely alive. (Photo: Getty Images)

Distance: 50
Effort: Challenging

Why we love it: Be transported to the 鈥淪ound of Music鈥 as you trek a horseshoe-shaped route high above the lakes, glaciers, and alpine meadows of the Stubai Valley. The hike has a total elevation gain and loss of just over 37,000 feet, so make sure your legs are conditioned. Eight historic connect the of the trail. Each has its own challenges and takes between four to seven hours to complete. But the warm, Tyrolean hospitality (and fresh-from-the oven strudel) that awaits at the end of each stage is motivation to keep trekking.

Need to know: Huts should be booked at least a month in advance. Most offer a mix of accommodations ranging from dorm-style rooms that require sleeping pads (from $20) to private rooms (from $55); all serve hearty, Tyrolean fare. The trail typically takes nine days. Some hikers tack on days and use the Franz-Senn H眉tte, located at stage two, to acclimate and train. Perched at 7,044 feet, via ferratas and climbing parks surround the classic Bavarian lodging, which has wifi, too. Hiking company Hut to Hut Hiking Austria has a nine-day, self-guided itinerary that includes hut reservations and most meals (from $1,585).

10. Classic Loop of Jotunheimen National Park, Norway

Fjord and mountains
Welcome to the Home of the Giants. (Photo: Getty Images/Audun Bakke Andersen)

Distance: 58 miles
Effort: Test-your-mettle challenging

Why we love it: Jotunheimen translates to 鈥渉ome of the giants,鈥 a nod to being home of the tallest mountains in northern Europe. It鈥檚 possible to loop the park, staying in historic mountain huts managed by the Norwegian Trekking Association throughout the journey. This circuit includes a strenuous ascent of bucket-list Besseggen Ridge, an 8.7-mile trail with 3,608 feet of elevation gain. Panoramic views of emerald and turquoise lakes, electric blue glaciers, and snow-crowned peaks make every step worth the effort.

Need to know: The within the park average $105 a night and should be reserved in advance; note some require to reach and those tickets should also be purchased in advance (from $7 each way). This hike is best during the summer to avoid snow or ice. Give yourself six to eight days鈥攎ore if you want to summit Norway鈥檚 highest peak, Galdh酶piggen. Ease logistics by booking a self-guided circuit with , a tour operator in the park that takes care of transfers to and from Oslo, hut reservations, meals, luggage transport, and boat crossings (from $1,930).


Jen Murphy is a regular 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor. She recently wrote about the world鈥檚 best bike tours and North America鈥檚 best surf schools. She is an avid hiker and will be trekking hut-to-hut in the Dolomites this summer.听

 

Woman on summit of climb
The author hiking and climbing in France. (Photo: Jen Murphy)



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I Survived Downhill Skiing鈥檚 Rowdiest Party /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/kitzbuhel-hahnenkamm/ Thu, 27 Feb 2025 12:08:37 +0000 /?p=2697090 I Survived Downhill Skiing鈥檚 Rowdiest Party

Our writer endured boozy days, sleepless nights in a hostel, and edge-of-your-seat racing at Kitzb眉hel鈥檚 legendary Hahnenkamm

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I Survived Downhill Skiing鈥檚 Rowdiest Party

Stepping off the train in Kitzb眉hel, Austria, feels like entering hallowed ground: one of the most famous ski towns in the Alps, chartered in 1271 by Duke Ludwig II of Bavaria. I inhaled the crisp afternoon air and began a short walk to my accommodations, passing fur boutiques and high-end ski shops, medieval churches, and brightly lit, glassed-in hotel lobbies. I came to a tiny concrete stairway one block off the main drag and descended into a snow-covered garden, where I passed a few ducks, quacking and nibbling on lettuce. I buzzed the doorbell and waited.

It was Tuesday, January 22, 2025. I had come to Kitzb眉hel to cover the baddest ski race on the World Cup circuit: the Hahnenkamm downhill, alpine schussing鈥檚 holy grail, where skiers become legends on a twisting elevator shaft of ice called the Streif. It is staged in this quaint Tyrolean hamlet of 8,000 residents, and each year attracts 45,000 paying fans, as well as celebrities and politicians who intermingle with depraved commoners like few places in the winter world.

I鈥檇 planned my trip late, in mid-December, when most of the area鈥檚 lodging had been gobbled up. My options were to pay $600 a night for a room in a village four miles away, accessed by train; or $50 a night for a bed in a six-bunk room at the SnowBunnys Hostel, a five-minute walk to the race finish鈥攂reakfast included. I hadn鈥檛 stayed in a European hostel since I was 21. Now I am a 45-year-old father of two who enjoys sleep.

It鈥檚 only six nights, I reassured myself as I booked the hostel.

A few minutes after arriving at the hostel, a heavyset man named Dave with long, stringy black hair and a graying beard opened the door. I followed him upstairs to a small, stuffy quarters on the third floor. He coughed and sneezed without covering his mouth. 鈥淓veryone in the village is sick,鈥 he explained.

Dave, a Kiwi in his fifties, showed me the bathrooms: a cramped toilet stall outside our room and a fourth-floor shower with a sign that read, 鈥淥nly 2 Euros to watch!鈥 A rabbit named Rocky hopped down the hallway.

I met my roommates: Josh, 41, a wildland firefighter from Sun Valley, Idaho, who was here to snowboard; and Jake, a Toronto dad in his sixties who鈥檇 come to watch his best friend鈥檚 son compete in the Hahnenkamm. More would arrive later in the week.

鈥淥h, hey,鈥 Jake mentioned in the common room, before I headed upstairs to bed, 鈥淛osh is a bit of a snorer. I do, too, sometimes.鈥 I soon learned this was like saying Hahnenkamm racers ski 鈥渁 bit fast.鈥 Jake started snoring ten seconds after he closed his eyes. But it was nothing like Josh, whose labored breathing sounded like a semi truck using its engine brake. That night I lay awake for six hours.
The following evening, we sat around a table while Dave held court. He told us he鈥檇 left school at 14, served in the British infantry, and moved to Kitzb眉hel in 1990 with 100 British pounds to his name.

鈥淲hat brought you?鈥 I asked.

鈥淚 met a girl in Prague and she was coming here.鈥

Dave took a job at McDonald鈥檚, which improved his language skills; he spoke English, German, Bulgarian, and Japanese. Dave鈥檚 family had run the hostel for 27 years. 鈥淪ome people are so shiny,鈥 he lamented. 鈥淲e call 鈥檈m 鈥榮hinys.鈥 They complain about everything to try and get their money back. 鈥極h, my wife was allergic to chickens.鈥欌

Seeking a bit of optimism, he shifted to the week鈥檚 marquee event鈥攖he reason his hostel would be full come Friday.

鈥淣ow we have the Hanhenkamm. It鈥檚 just bullshit on bullshit. But it鈥檚 amazing how we can put 90,000 people in one little village and nobody鈥檚 shooting or driving trucks through the crowd.鈥

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I鈥檝e Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit. /adventure-travel/advice/solo-travel/ Sun, 15 Dec 2024 10:00:41 +0000 /?p=2691667 I鈥檝e Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

More people are catching onto the freedom and rewards of taking trips alone. Here鈥檚 what I've learned in two decades of wandering on my own.

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I鈥檝e Been Traveling Solo for Decades. Here Are My Pro Tips and Favorite Countries to Visit.

In traveling, I鈥檝e always chosen to go it alone rather than not go at all. Over the years, friends have called me fearless. Don鈥檛 you get scared? they ask. Very rarely. Lonely? Honestly, never, even before the days of social media. And isn鈥檛 it more expensive to travel by yourself than with others? Traditionally, yes. Solo travelers often got slapped with single-supplement, or premium, hotel and tour fees, but since the pandemic, companies have started courting solo travelers. Priceline even held its first-ever .

, safety, loneliness, and expense are the three biggest reasons people hate to travel solo. But I鈥檝e been adventuring on my own for more than two decades, and I find it freeing. I can travel at my own pace and on my own budget. I can easily score a table for one鈥攅ven at top restaurants that often require bookings weeks in advance. And I connect more with locals.

Looking for more great travel intel? Sign up for 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 .

More people are catching on to the appeal of solo travel, however, especially Gen Zers and Millennials. Google searches for solo travel have increased 223 percent over the past decade, and according to a , 50 percent of Americans planned to travel alone in 2024. And while women have led the indie trip trend in recent years, men are joining the ranks. A from the travel booking site Omio found that 30 percent of men, compared to 23 percent of women, have solo journeys planned for 2025.

Jen Murphy on a solo-travel trip in the Omo Valley in Ethiopia
On a weeklong trip, the author camped alongside the people of the Omo River Valley, in Ethiopia, and learned their history, culture, and the effects of drought. (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

If you鈥檝e hesitated to give solo travel a go, let me alleviate your concerns and suggest some of my favorite places for awesome adventuring on your own.

Always Consider Safety First

Certain destinations lend themselves to solo travel more than others. Certainly, safety is top of mind.

Cliffs of Moher, coast of Ireland
The famous Cliffs of Moher line the coast in County Clare, Ireland, which is considered one of the safest countries in the world to visit. The 220-foot Branaunmore sea stack was once part of the cliffs, which rise to nearly 800 feet. (Photo: Ted Benge)

I scan the U.S. State Department鈥檚 and avoid countries of conflict. I also browse the (GPI), an annual ranking of nations based on factors like the absence of violence or fear of violence, a nation鈥檚 level of harmony or discord, and its degree of militarization. Coming into 2025, Iceland, Ireland, and Austria are the safest three countries in the world, according to the overall GPI score.

, which also researches and ranks the safest places to visit each year, is another great resource. Rankings are based on an average of 鈥渁ll measures from [BHTP鈥檚] State of Travel Insurance research,鈥 and factor in other indices including the Global Peace Index and information from sources like , a destination database that scores living conditions. Berkshire Hathaway puts Iceland, Australia, and Canada as top three for safety, with Ireland close behind.

graphic showing safest countries
Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection ranks the safest places to visit each year. (Illustration: Tim Schamber)

In addition to its list, Berkshire Hathaway provides write-ups that touch on smart considerations to take into account in each of the high-ranking nations, from dangerous wildlife like box jellyfish in Australia to driving on the left-hand side of the road in Ireland to expensive emergency-evacuation costs in remote destinations of northern Norway.

My 6 Favorite Solo-Travel Destinations

Some of my picks are at the top of the Berkshire Hathaway and Global Peace Index lists, but I cast a wider lens to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations. In particular, such places have satisfied my craving for big doses of nature and adventure.

Portugal

the author traveling alone and surfing in Portugal with two friends she met on her trip
The author with friends she met at Noah Surf House in Portugal, which she has visited solo four times听(Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

The GPI ranked Portugal the seventh-safest country in the world in 2024. It鈥檚 also a bargain compared to most Western European countries (a draft of craft beer cost me $3 in Lisbon compared to $8 in Paris), and the effortlessly connects the northern and southern regions.

I鈥檝e visited this country solo four times and have always found the locals extremely hospitable. On my first trip, I checked out the beach town of Sagres in the southern region of Algarve and met two couples from Lisbon who offered to drive me back to the city. One of the women took off work the next day to be my tour guide, and that evening she and her husband threw a dinner party for me at their home.

I love making solo surf trips up and down Portugal鈥檚 coast. Hotels like (from $200) in Santa Cruz and (from $73), just north in the town of Peniche, have a clubhouse vibe and offer activities and events鈥攍ike rooftop music sessions鈥攖hat make it easy to meet new friends. Both places can arrange board rentals, lessons, and English-speaking guides.

If you, too, fall hard for the country, Portugal鈥檚 recently introduced makes it easy to pursue residency while working remotely.

Costa Rica

Pura vida vibes have always made me feel welcome in Costa Rica. The State Department鈥檚 Level 2 advisory recommends that trip-goers use increased caution here, due to petty crime risks and natural hazards like earthquakes (which are common-ish here, with events of magnitude 7 about every decade). For 2025, Berkshire Hathaway Costa Rica the sixth-safest place in the world for female, BIPOC, and LGBTQIA+ travelers.

Surf towns such as Nosara and Santa Teresa along the Pacific Coast attract a lot of Americans and have small expat communities. , a hotel brand catering to digital nomads with coworking spaces as well as rooms, has eight outposts in Costa Rica, including in Nosara, Santa Teresa, and Monteverde (shared dorms from $24). These properties host music events and arrange local experiences for guests.

On the Caribbean Coast, I鈥檓 a big fan of the boutique hotel (from $365), which is part of the sustainability-focused Cayuga Collection. The hotel works with local guides and outfitters to arrange snorkeling excursions and hiking day trips in Cahuita National Park, including for solo guests. The place also offers free bike use, which I love for exploring the nearby town on my own.

Canada

Jen Murphy prepares for a polar plunge in British Columbia
The author gamely readies for a polar plunge in Whistler, British Columbia, Canada (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Canadians have a reputation for being incredibly friendly, and that as well as proximity to the U.S. and our shared language are bonuses. highlighted the country鈥檚 low crime rate and noted that wildlife like bears and moose posed some of the biggest dangers to visitors.

Vancouver and Montreal, great jumping-off points for the wilderness, ranked two and three, respectively, on a that see the most solo-travel searches on the travel site Kayak and the most solo-dining reservations on OpenTable.

Canada has 37 national parks and 11 national park reserves, as well as two beautiful coasts. I鈥檝e made friends while soaking in the swimming-pool-sized hot tub at (from $250) in Alberta鈥檚 Banff National Park. I鈥檝e also plotted solo snowboard trips to , British Columbia, to coincide with the Natural Selection Tour freestyle competition, knowing I鈥檇 meet like-minded travelers.

If you鈥檙e wary of wandering the wilderness alone, sign up for a guided trek with a local outfitter. I like the .

Another low-stress option is crisscrossing the country via rail. The Rocky Mountaineer鈥檚 from Vancouver to Banff takes just two days and is staffed with storytellers who can shed light on indigenous sites and wildlife. It offers single-berth accommodations from $1,752.

Australia

Jen Murphy in Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia
The author above Wineglass Bay, Tasmania, Australia, during a long walk with a local guide (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Australia has long been a magnet for backpackers. I spent nearly a year in my twenties backpacking mostly solo around the country鈥檚 east coast, and the biggest dangers were crocodiles, snakes, and jellyfish. Despite its resident poisonous critters, Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection scored Australia听 the second-safest place in the world to travel for 2025.

Affordable and clean hostels, like (from $140) in Queensland鈥檚 Daintree Rainforest, abound and are filled with other solo travelers. is a beach-club-vibe hostel brand with Queensland locations in Noosa, Cairns, and Airlie Beach (from $32 for a spot in a mixed dorm).

Australia is a fantastic destination for hiking. is a collection of 13 treks that you can do yourself or with a guide. I spent four days traversing the wildlife-filled in Tasmania, opting for a guide via the local outfitter the because I wanted to learn more about the flora, fauna, and culture on the island (from $1,900, all-inclusive). The first two nights we stayed in secluded, simple bush camps near the beach ($7), and the final night we were pampered in the recently renovated historic-home-turned-hotel, Bernacchi House.

If you鈥檙e sticking to the mainland, the in the state of Victoria is a very doable 27 miles over four days along the Great Ocean Road, with campsites en route. The walk is suitable for hikers of any experience and takes in the shipwreck-dotted coastline, wild beaches, and Great Otway and Port Campbell National Parks.

Austria

Jen Murphy ski touring in St. Anton, Austria
An off-piste adventure in St. Anton, Austria (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Austria is a fantastic option for solo alpine adventures. The country is ranked third on the Global Peace Index and fifth worldwide in terms of safety by the . Most locals speak English, and a great public transportation network makes it easy to travel car-free. If you鈥檙e deciding between alpine destinations, consider that the cost of living in Switzerland is higher than in Austria, and that affects tourism; in general, expect lodging and meals in Austria to cost half of what you鈥檇 pay in Switzerland.

The runs a network of more than 170 huts, where it鈥檚 easy to engage with other hikers. Most mountain resorts, such as or or have guided hiking, biking, and paddling tours that allow you to mingle with others. And many villages offer special . I met some friends on a solo trip to the , held each September.

Bhutan

Jen Murphy, author, in Bhutan on a hike with her guide
The author with one of her guides in the kingdom of Bhutan, a mecca for trekking and biking and one of the most soulful places she has ever been (Photo: Jen Murphy Collection)

Solo travel, for me, has been the perfect way to do some soul searching when I鈥檓 making big decisions or going through a transition. And one of the most soulful places I鈥檝e ever visited is the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is a place of beauty and spirituality, and travelers here are required to have a guide, which is an exceptional way to become familiar with the culture.

Six years ago, I went on assignment on a solo ten-day guided trip of this Southeast Asia nation and learned so much, including the proper way to throw a dart (this is a traditional sport in Bhutan) and about dating habits here (yes, there鈥檚 Tinder in Bhutan). I still keep in touch with my guide, who was a woman, on WhatsApp.

Bhutan is ranked 21 on the Global Peace Index, and it鈥檚 a mecca for hiking and mountain biking鈥攖he king is an avid mountain biker, and my guide and I spotted him one day on the trail. While getting there from the U.S. isn鈥檛 cheap, nor are costs within the country, visits are slightly more affordable since the kingdom halved its daily tourist fee from $200 to $100 last year.

Phil Bowen of should be your go-to logistician to find a guide, driver, and accommodations, which can range from homestays to splurge-worthy hotels. (from $550, half-board, meaning room, breakfast, and one other meal) is one of the most memorable places I鈥檝e stayed in throughout my global travels.

5 Tips for Solo Travelers, From a Pro

lone hiker Lake Ediza, the Sierra
Rita Keil quietly contemplates the view at Lake Ediza, near Mammoth Lakes, California. (Photo: Jake Stern)

Here are some tips and tricks for making the most of a solo trip.

Share Your Plans

I always email my mom my rough itinerary. It includes the contact information for any hotels I鈥檝e already booked or the names of campsites where I plan to stay. I also regularly check in with her or a good friend via What鈥檚 App or email to let them know I鈥檝e reached a destination safely and when I鈥檓 moving on to my next stop.

Eat at the Restaurant’s Bar

I absolutely love dining alone at the bar. It鈥檚 usually easy to score a single seat, and before long I鈥檓 chatting with some fascinating local characters. Bartenders are often fantastic sources of local intel and can direct you to good restaurants and the best hiking and mountain-biking trails. Finally, happy-hour specials are a great way to save a few bucks.

Watch and Post on Message Boards

If you鈥檙e craving companionship, you might post on social-media channels like Facebook and Instagram鈥攜ou never know who in your circles, or your friends鈥 circles, is headed to the same place as you鈥攐r use the Friends setting on apps like Bumble. Many hotels and hostels, and often the local grocery store, still have bulletin boards with postings for local activities, like free yoga sessions or group hikes.

Pack Meds

Being alone isn鈥檛 so great when you fall ill in a far-flung place. In many countries it鈥檚 manageable: you can walk into a pharmacy, explain your symptoms, and get what you need. But I recently suffered through a debilitating urinary-tract infection in Morocco, and now I never travel without the broad-spectrum antibiotic I needed. I convinced my doctor to prescribe one in case I get that sick on the road again.

Don鈥檛 Second-Guess Yourself

Trust your gut. If something feels unsafe, it probably is. The very few times I鈥檝e gotten food poisoning have been when actions went against my instinct. Don鈥檛 be afraid to be impolite. Once, in Varanasi, India, an elderly woman offered me a glass of sketchy looking lassi. I felt rude saying no, and all it took was one sip to give me Delhi Belly. I knew better.

You should also follow your intuition. When I meet strangers and feel genuine good vibes, I will accept an invitation to share a ride or join for a meal in someone鈥檚 home. These chance encounters have rewarded me with some wonderful friends and experiences over the years.

The author stops her bike ride in Romania to pose in front of a house where a muster of storks has constructed a large nest atop a building.
The author on a bike ride in Romania听(Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Jen Murphy is 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥檚 online travel-advice columnist. She has had some of her most memorable adventures while traveling solo, from dancing with a local tribe in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia to joining members of the Indian army on a run in Delhi. Her journal and a good book have always served as great companions. She has also recently written an ultimate guide to winter fun in a choice selection of mountain towns in Colorado, a guide for anyone new to adventure travel in Costa Rica, and the funniest things travelers ask their adventure guides. There are doozies.

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Building Resilience /gallery/mountain-seed-foundation-ukraine-war/ Sun, 29 Sep 2024 10:00:50 +0000 /?post_type=gallery_article&p=2683068 Building Resilience

After fleeing war in Ukraine, families find healing in the mountains

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Building Resilience

Kitzsteinhorn, a 10,000-foot Austrian peak that sits in the Alps just south of Salzburg, is not considered a draw for serious mountaineers. But to a group of Ukrainian refugees who climbed it last August, as part of a summer camp hosted by the U.S.-based , Kitzsteinhorn symbolized hope.

Filmmaker and photographer Max Lowe documented his second trip to Healing Base Camp, a weeklong program for families whose lives were upended by the violence of Russia鈥檚 invasion of Ukraine. A mix of talk therapy, art classes, and guided mountaineering expeditions, the camp is about building resilience. 鈥淎ll of these people lost someone far too soon,鈥 says Lowe, who is based in Bozeman, Montana. 鈥淭here鈥檚 beauty in the fact that they鈥檙e showing up here and learning how to move forward.鈥

Lowe first visited in the summer of 2022 for his documentary , released on Netflix in 2023. The film follows ten-year-old Milana and her grandmother Olga as they immerse themselves in camp activities. Milana, initially scared to climb, gains confidence throughout the week and eventually summits Kitzsteinhorn. Both she and Olga attended again when Lowe did. 鈥淭he difference in Milana from the year before was remarkable,鈥 he says. 鈥淪he pushed through everything and just really seemed like a changed girl.鈥

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A Talented Alpinist Died Free Soloing in Austria /outdoor-adventure/climbing/experienced-climber-dies-free-solo-fall/ Sun, 09 Jun 2024 08:00:00 +0000 /?p=2670888 A Talented Alpinist Died Free Soloing in Austria

Martin Feistl, 27, was among the most talented and bold alpinists of his generation. He died after a 130-foot fall.

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A Talented Alpinist Died Free Soloing in Austria

Martin Feistl died on Saturday, May 18, following a 130-foot fall in his native Austria, while free soloing on the steep 1,000-foot South Face of the (8,097ft). The 27-year-old ice and mixed expert was climbing the Spitzenst盲tter听up the center of the face.

While it鈥檚 unclear exactly what occurred, a 鈥攂ased on an account from a mountain rescuer on the face鈥攕aid that Feistl 鈥渓ost his footing in a steep and slightly overhanging section of the route at around 12:25 p.m. 鈥 After a free fall of around [130 feet] he hit a rock ledge at the foot of the wall.鈥 From here he slid down a steep snowfield, and eventually came to a rest in scree several hundred feet below. Although a rescuer reached Feistl quickly, his injuries were fatal. A helicopter recovered the body shortly after.

Free solo climber Martin Feistl climbs an ice pitch during a first ascent in the Italian Dolomites.
Martin Feistl follows an ice pitch during the first ascent of Aura (AI 5 M6; 3,900ft) in the Italian Dolomites. (Photo: Simon Geitl)

Feistl was a climber from a young age, and began to garner attention when he started climbing with the German Mountaineering Club鈥檚 Youth Expedition Team from 2016 to 2018. It was during this time that he met longtime friend and climbing partner Simon Gietl, who served as Feistl鈥檚 trainer on the team. 鈥淢artin鈥檚 talent and awareness of nature immediately caught my eye,鈥 Gietl said. 鈥淗e was an alpinist through and through, who loved (and lived) to feel his limits.鈥

Feistl capped off his time on the Youth Expedition Team with an impressive ascent of the West Ridge of Shivling (21,467 feet) in the Indian Garhwal, and returned to Europe to devour climbs throughout the Alps.

One of his most prominent ascents came two years later, in 2020, when he and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of the 2,600-foot Sagzahn Verschneidung in Austria. The line was establishedby the late and Peter M眉hlberger, and with better conditions Bruder and Feistl freed it. 鈥淔ortunately we encountered neither the brittle rock nor any [of the] wild techno climbing that Lama had had to deal with,鈥 at the time.

Bruder and Feistl went on to tackle a number of hard objectives together that season, most notably “Stalingrad,” a 3,300-foot route听just a month later. The effort was shortlisted for a Piolet d鈥橭r. 鈥淚 shared with Martin some of the most intense and impressive climbs of my late career,鈥 Bruder told Climbing. 鈥淲e were the young gun and the old-school man. I appreciated his commitment and technical and mental skills鈥 I guess he liked my experience and flexibility.鈥

Climber Martin Feistl prepares climbing gear in his home.
Feistl at home, preparing for his next bout with the mountains. (Photo: Simon Geitl)

Bruder noted that the pair hadn鈥檛 climbed much together in recent years, though they remained in close contact. 鈥淪ince moving to Innsbruck, Martin made another step forward in terms of frequency, difficulty, ethics, and professionalism, [into a place] I could and would not follow,鈥 Bruder said. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 the course of life, I guess. Still, we had regular contact, often about his doubts and conflicts with the professional alpinist game.鈥

Feistl was undoubtedly a rising star in the world of European alpinism, but Bruder and other close friends and climbing partners indicated that he had a love-hate relationship with the fame and visibility that came with professional climbing, as well as the media obligations of sponsorship. Bruder said Feistl never wanted to be 鈥渃limbing around the world, doing what people want to see, selling good pics, or smiles. He always wanted to be respected for his climbing performance, not his show performance.鈥

As an alpinist, Feistl led by example. Last summer, he and Felix Bub traveled by train and then sailboat to establish over in Greenland鈥檚 Mythic Cirque. Then, in January 2024, he free soloed a new 1,300-foot mixed climb on the West Face of the Hammerspitze, Austria, called “Daily Dose of Luck.” Just a few days later, he and Gietl made the first ascent of a massive route听in the Italian Dolomites.

Gietl looked back fondly on the duo鈥檚 first ascent of “Affogato” last winter and gave a bit of insight into his late partner鈥檚 remarkable daring. 鈥淢artin climbed onto a crazy ice roof with [only] a 10 centimeter screw [13 feet] below!鈥 Gietl recalled. 鈥淗anging freely, he swung himself onto the edge of the roof and was able to pull himself up using sheer strength. It was crazy and fascinating at the same time! It was so exciting to watch that I didn鈥檛 dare take a photo. 鈥 A fall would definitely have been very, very painful.鈥

Martin Feistl leads a steep mixed pitch during the first ascent of Affogato.
Feistl on the first ascent of Affogato last winter. (Photo: Simon Geitl)

Feistl offered insight into his mindsight in a about Daily Dose of Luck. 鈥淚 could have taken gear with me to self-belay,鈥 he said, 鈥渂ut somehow the idea of rope-solo climbing in winter doesn鈥檛 appeal to me at all. Everything takes too long and, anyways, on ice you just don鈥檛 fall. That鈥檚 how I [learned] to climb ice.鈥

He continued: 鈥淔or reasons that are not always entirely clear to me, this is how I鈥檝e always gone about my climbs. In general, on the vast majority of routes that I solo, I try to do without everything that can provide more security than my belief in my own abilities. Physically, but especially mentally. It鈥檚 probably one of those ego things.鈥

Feistl鈥檚 climbing partner, British alpinist Fay Manners, met him two years ago at a sponsorship meetup in Wales, and was immediately impressed by his purist attitude and comfort with exposure. 鈥淢ost Europeans that visit the UK for the mountains are intimidated by how bold the climbing is,鈥 she said. 鈥淢artin was fearless, strong, and talented. He was in his element climbing on sea cliffs with runout protection.鈥

Manners and her climbing partner, Michelle Dvorak, shared base camp with Feistl and Bub during their听 trip to the Mythic Cirque last year, and her favorite memories of Feistl were from this expedition. 鈥淚n the mornings we shared breakfast together in the sun overlooking the water, just talking about climbing and life,鈥 she said. 鈥淭hese memories [are] even more prominent to me than the new climbing route we opened.鈥

Martin Feistl and Fay Manners smile at a belay in Greenland.
Feistl and Manners at a belay in Greenland鈥檚 Mythic Cirque. (Photo: Fay Manners)

Manners looked back fondly on Feistl鈥檚 wry wit, as well as his unwavering ideals. 鈥淗e had quite strong views, especially when it came to ethics in climbing,鈥 she said. 鈥淗e never relinquished his beliefs and values 鈥 I was sure that he would go on to be one of the bravest and most impressive mixed climbers in the world.鈥

鈥淗is love for the sport was real,鈥 Manners said. 鈥淗e didn鈥檛 care about sponsorship or attention.鈥

Beyond his high level of risk tolerance, a key feature of Feistl鈥檚 climbing was his dedication to completing objectives in as environmentally friendly a manner as possible. Sources suggest this is largely why, after Shivling, he largely confined his climbing to his backyard in the Alps. 鈥淲hether by bike, train, or sailing ship, the main thing [for Feistl] was to climb without a car or plane,鈥 Gietl said.

Free solo climber Martin Feistl on the first ascent of a mixed climb in Europe.
(Photo: Simon Geitl)

Feistl was a vocal proponent of the movement, which 鈥渆xtends the notion of redpoint by including the approach by fair means (public transport, bike, boat, foot).鈥 When he and Felix Bub last year, they left Innsbruck by train and then sailed, resulting in carbon emissions of roughly 280 kilograms CO2 per person, which 鈥渞oughly corresponds to a single person鈥檚 car journey from Munich to Chamonix and back.鈥

Gietl shared a brief message intended for his late friend:

鈥淢artin, we had a short but very intense time together, and I was looking forward to many more adventures together,鈥 he wrote. 鈥淵ou always impressed me with your climbing skills, your purist style, and your unique sense of humor. You truly succeeded in your goal of living your life with a small ecological footprint, but Martin, your footprint in my heart is huge.鈥

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Scenes From the 2023 Hahnenkamm Downhill /gallery/hahnenkamm-austria-ski-racing/ Mon, 15 Jan 2024 11:44:08 +0000 /?post_type=gallery_article&p=2657629 Scenes From the 2023 Hahnenkamm Downhill

In Austria, ski racing is so much more than just an athletic pursuit

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Scenes From the 2023 Hahnenkamm Downhill

Every January, tens of thousands of ski-racing fans flock to Kitzb眉hel, Austria, for the Hahnenkamm Races, an event photographer and lifelong skier Kari Medig calls 鈥渢he Wimbledon of ski racing.鈥 But instead of swatting a fuzzy ball back and forth, athletes hurtle down icy slopes and through blind corners at upward of 75 miles per hour. And rather than don swanky 鈥渟mart casual鈥 attire, spectators come decked out in vintage ski gear. The downhill race is the start of a three-day spectacle that includes slalom, super-G, and sprint competitions. Integral to the scene are the crowds themselves: the events draw up to 50,000 attendees. Austria鈥檚 biggest newspaper sends a couple dozen reporters to document the frenzy, and military cadets work long days shoveling snow and prepping the courses. Growing up in British Columbia, Medig watched VHS recordings of the Hahnenkamm after days on the slopes with his local ski team. He went on to document a wide range of subjects as a photographer, but skiing has always been his favorite. So when he was given media credentials to photograph the 2023 Hahnenkamm鈥攑lacing him closer to the action than spectators get鈥攈e knew he couldn鈥檛 pass up the opportunity. It was a technical challenge shooting the skiers as they blurred past at impossible speeds, and a logistical one too, since he wanted to capture the vibe among bystanders. 鈥淭he fans and their connection to the race was so special,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t felt like a place where people love the sport as much as I do.鈥

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How Austria鈥檚 Historic Ski Resorts Are Pioneering a Sustainable Future /adventure-travel/how-austrias-historic-ski-resorts-are-pioneering-a-sustainable-future/ Wed, 25 Oct 2023 12:44:25 +0000 /?p=2648449 How Austria鈥檚 Historic Ski Resorts Are Pioneering a Sustainable Future

Can skiing be good for local communities and still be mindful of the planet? Yes, if you鈥檙e in the Austrian Alps, where the leaders of sustainable skiing are showing the way.

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How Austria鈥檚 Historic Ski Resorts Are Pioneering a Sustainable Future

At the ski resorts of the future, skiers will arrive by free trains and buses, no cars necessary. They鈥檒l ride lifts powered by 100 percent renewable energy and carve down runs groomed with machines that run on cutting-edge clean fuel. Ultraefficient snowmaking that saves power and water will supplement winter鈥檚 bounty. When skiers finally unbuckle their boots, they鈥檒l browse regional crafts and savor apr猫s food and drink sourced from local producers. It鈥檚 both inspiring and just plain fun鈥攁 better way to ski鈥攁nd you don鈥檛 have to wait for the future. It鈥檚 already possible in Austria.听

Long known for breathtaking alpine scenery, excellent snow, and a special kind of hospitality, Austria鈥檚 ski resorts are making a new name for themselves in groundbreaking sustainability. As concern over the climate crisis deepens and organizations strive to slash their carbon footprints, Austrian resorts are taking the lead in eco-friendly practices. Not only because their existence depends on reliable snow, but also because they share a deep commitment to their communities, the conservation of their stunning alpine ecosystems, and a healthier planet for all.

Ski report, Austria

Austria鈥檚 ski resorts are making a new name for themselves in groundbreaking sustainability. (Photo: Zell am See-Kaprun / Kitzsteinhorn)

Austria鈥檚 top resorts are approaching sustainability measures from all angles. Many run their buildings and lifts on renewable energy. They encourage guests to take car-free vacations with accessible and widespread public transportation options. Their snowmaking machines use new technology and data analysis to save energy and water. And resorts prioritize a sense of place, whether that鈥檚 through protecting habitat for local flora and fauna or featuring regional specialties in their restaurants and shops.听

Even better? From hassle-free travel to local delicacies, a sustainable ski experience is also a more enjoyable one. Here鈥檚 how several pioneering ski mountains are integrating sustainability into everyday operations.

Renewable Energy

Some top Austrian resorts have already moved from powering their infrastructure with fossil fuels to 100 percent renewable energy. Ski Arlberg for example is one of the largest ski resorts in the world and their ski powerhouses St. Anton and Lech Z眉rs are run on its own independent hydroelectric plant. St. Anton also has its own biomass heating plant. Lech Z眉rs heats its cable cars, ski lifts, and almost all the surrounding homes and businesses with four biomass heating plants that use regionally sourced wood chips. And all its operations, from cable cars to lifts to restaurants, run on 100 percent pumped-storage hydropower.

Austria, Ski lift
Some top Austrian resorts are using 100-percent renewable energy. (Photo: Tourismusverband St. Anton am Arlberg, Patrick-Ba虉tz)

Kitzb眉hel听also taps green energy for its cable cars and lifts, using a mix of hydropower and solar power.听Snow Space Salzburg鈥攁 collection of the adjoining ski resorts of听Flachau,听Wagrain, and听St. Johann-Alpendorf鈥攈as also moved to 100 percent renewable energy for its cable cars and snowmaking machines, part of its ambitious plan to reach carbon neutrality by the 2025鈥2026 season. At听Zell am See-Kaprun, lifts run on green energy, and the resort captures excess heat generated by several cable car motors and uses it to heat buildings. Clean energy also powers the Nordic playground of听RegionSeefeld, a frequent host of Olympic and World Cup skiing events. Solar panels and a biomass heating system supply many of its businesses and homes. Plus, street and building lighting systems often use automatically adapting LED bulbs to boost efficiency.

Greener Transportation

Much of a ski resort鈥檚 carbon footprint comes from the transportation its guests use to travel to and from the slopes. By making it easy for people to leave their cars at home and use cleaner public transit instead, Austria鈥檚 resorts are slashing emissions.听Kitzb眉hel听boasts the largest free ski transit network in the Alps, with buses (many of them electric) connecting all the valley stations in the area. (There are also electric-vehicle charging stations in its parking lots.) Similarly,听Zell am See-Kaprun听promotes car-free vacations鈥攁nd from spring through fall even offers free train and bus travel throughout the region via its Mobility Card program. Travelers can also use a single guest card to take advantage of听Region Seefeld鈥檚 buses and trains. The Blue Fleet at听Lech Z眉rs听includes free ski buses, and additionally they offer e-bikes for rent, and an e-garage for guests to charge EVs.听St. Anton听is another easy car-free destination, thanks to its connection to the international rail system and regular buses.

public bus in Austria, skiing
Ski resorts in Austria are prioritizing green transportation. (Photo: Snow Space Salzburg / Salzburg-Verkehr)

Better Snowmaking and Grooming

Many resorts must augment natural snowfall with manmade flakes鈥攈istorically an energy- and water-intensive operation鈥攂ut听Kitzb眉hel听employs innovative technology to maximize snowmaking efficiency. The resort has analyzed its runs, considering factors like elevation and slope exposure, to determine exactly how much snow each area needs. Then, it measures snow depth using GPS data to make sure its snowmaking machines produce only as much snow as necessary, saving energy and water. And at Kitzsteinhorn at听Zell am See-Kaprun, a small pumped hydroelectric plant can make snow in winter; when the weather warms up, that snow鈥檚 meltwater is transformed into hydropower for the area. Snow grooming also requires significant energy, so clean tech makes a big impact. Starting this season, the glacier lifts in Zell am See-Kaprun will operate its snow groomers entirely with a renewable HVO100 fuel, a fossil-free diesel substitute made from natural waste products such as used cooking oils and, according to the manufacturer, releases 90 per cent less carbon dioxide. And Snow Space Salzburg听debuted a one-of-a-kind hydrogen-powered groomer in January 2023, paving the way for mass production by 2025.

Regional Focus

Across Austria, restaurants and hotels are becoming increasingly focused on offering regional cuisine and locally sourced ingredients. A global leader in organic farming, Austria is home to more than 24,000 certified organic farms鈥攚hich make up 22 percent of the total farms in the country.

You鈥檒l also find plenty of outstanding local ski, equipment, and fashion brands while browsing stores in the the pedestrian-friendly ski towns. Some of the most iconic brands鈥攍ike Hannes Strolz ski boots in Lech, or Frauenschuh fashion in Kitzb眉hel鈥攃ome with a multi-generational legacy and history. There are also several noteworthy start-ups, such as Innsbruck-based SPURart, which makes completely customized, handmade skis and snowboards. SPUart even offers visitors the opportunity to design and create their own gear during weekend-long workshops. Overall, this regional focus on production and supply chain reduces the carbon impact of shipping goods across long distances while also protecting Austria鈥檚 cultural heritage and creating a strong sense of place for travelers and locals alike.

Cooking

Resort restaurants in Austria source fresh, local ingredients for dishes. (Photo: Lech Z眉rs / Daniel Zangerl)

Community Legacy

The origin and evolution of Austria鈥檚 ski industry makes it special. Over the last century, its resorts have grown organically out of small communities centered around farming, trade, and mining. Today, many of the resorts鈥 听top hotels, restaurants, shops, and businesses remain under the loving care of the families that established them. This legacy stands in contrast to the trend in the United States and elsewhere, where corporate giants manage resorts. Instead, Austria鈥檚 ski destinations are intertwined with the community鈥檚 lifeblood, and this deeply rooted connection has spurred a commitment to tackling today鈥檚 challenges head-on.

Greener, great food and culture, and easy travel: Austria is showing the way to a better future for all skiers. your Austrian ski adventure.


The (ANTO) is Austria鈥檚 national tourism organization. Since 1955, the main objective has been the promotion of Austria as a vacation destination. To learn more about ANTO or what to explore in Austria, visit .

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What We Can Learn from This German Walking Tradition /culture/essays-culture/volksmarching-german-hikes/ Mon, 08 Jun 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/volksmarching-german-hikes/ What We Can Learn from This German Walking Tradition

For the author, the German tradition of "volksmarching" is rife with nostalgia.

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What We Can Learn from This German Walking Tradition

Those familiar with American distance-running lore have probably heard the story. When future marathon great Meb Keflezighi was in middle school, his PE teacher made the class run a mile and promised an A to anyone who could do it in under six minutes and 15 seconds. Keflezighi ran 5:20鈥攁uguring big things to come.

In the revisionist history of my own early youth, which I spent in Germany, there was a moment when I also showed a glimmer of Keflezighian potential. As a fifth-grader, I won a cross-country race that was held in the woods behind my school. It was a devastating upset for several of my classmates, who, thanks to the early onset of puberty, were already lethal forces on the dodgeball court. They were incredulous that a scrawny guy like me could be better than them at something. So was I. At the time, genetics was still too abstract a concept, but I had another way to rationalize my unexpected success, one that I could also blame on my parents: despite my tender age, I was already a veteran of the volksmarsch.

The word鈥攚hich waltzes off the tongue with characteristic German euphony鈥攖ranslates to 鈥減eople鈥檚 march鈥 and refers to that began popping up in Central Europe during the 1960s. A volksmarch is essentially a more formalized version of a hike, in which participants check in at the start and proceed along a prescribed route鈥攗sually ten kilometers, or 6.2 miles. Most events are put on by an organization known as the (IVV). There is no official start time, but there are checkpoints along the trail where walkers can get a cup of tea and receive a stamp to prove they aren鈥檛 cutting the course. Not that there would be any incentive to do so鈥攖hese events are emphatically noncompetitive. They are an excuse to wander for a few hours and then have a beer at the end. Sometimes there鈥檚 a band. There are worse ways to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Martin Fritz Huber (left) as a seven-year-old, walking with friends during a volksmarch in Germany.
Martin Fritz Huber (left) as a seven-year-old, walking with friends during a volksmarch in Germany. (Courtesy Martin Fritz Huber)

My mother and father certainly felt so. We lived in central Germany, in a hilly, densely forested section in the state of Hesse, whose sylvan enchantments were largely lost on me at the time. (Fortunately, the same can鈥檛 be said of the Brothers Grimm, who were born nearby 200 years earlier.) During the warmer months, there were regional volksmarches pretty much every weekend. I did my first one in 1987, the year I turned five.

I still have the small statuette of a grape harvester that I received for my efforts that day. Typically, you paid a small fee to take part in a volksmarch, and, for a few deutschmarks more, you could also prepurchase a prize to be received on completion. My nostalgia is probably doing a lot of work here, but to me, these small mementos had an idiosyncratic charm that puts the average marathon finisher鈥檚 medal to shame. It was, essentially, souvenir store kitsch. A porcelain plate with a gold-painted rim. A beer mug in the shape of a hiking boot. A garishly oversized pin with an obscure coat of arms. For a few years, these were my most sacred possessions.

I wish I could say that I was an enthusiastic walker from day one鈥攁 mini Thoreau鈥攂ut my parents usually had to make an appeal to my materialism. Walking ten kilometers can be tough, or, at the very least, kind of tedious when you鈥檙e barely taller than a coffee table. The prizes were a big motivator. Napoleon allegedly once said that a soldier will fight long and hard for a bit of colored ribbon. That was my mentality when I first started volksmarching: the struggle was worth it, so long as it was rewarded with a novelty shot glass.

Eventually, however, I began to look forward to these walks as a weekend ritual. Before I knew it, I had more than 500 kilometers鈥 worth of volksmarches in my tiny legs, as documented by the small, stamp-filled booklet that functioned as a kind of hiker鈥檚 passport. I don鈥檛 know if they still do this, but at the time, the IVV awarded you a certificate and pin to commemorate certain benchmarks: 100K, 500K, 1000K, and so on. I was envious of the old-timers, ancient men in Tyrolean hats, which casually flaunted their accomplishments. These guys were the alphas of an extremely un-alpha scene. I wanted to be like them. Anything for a ribbon.

As for the actual experience of hiking hundreds of kilometers through the German countryside as a child, all that remains are sensory echoes. Beech trees in the afternoon. The peculiar sweetness of the tea they would serve at checkpoints. I spent a lot of time climbing on trailside piles of felled timber (not recommended), bewitched by a vague notion that what I was doing was kind of dangerous. I remember the unnerving slickness of the bark after it had rained.

It鈥檚 been more than a quarter-century since my last volksmarch; in the summer of 1994, the year I turned 12, my family moved to Vienna, Austria, and that was pretty much that. The Brothers Grimm landscape was supplanted by a city of 1.5 million people. In hindsight, the timing seems fortuitous. I was entering adolescence and less interested than ever in countryside constitutionals with my parents. Vienna had one of the world鈥檚 best public transportation systems. The night became dangerously accessible. Bring it on.

But it cuts the other way, too. Those volksmarching years in Hesse are now synonymous with a romanticized version of my vanished childhood. Don鈥檛 tell anyone, but sometimes, usually in a state of mild inebriation, I鈥檒l go on Google Maps and stare at aerial shots of my former home in the hope of triggering a Proustian reverie. This hasn鈥檛 really worked. Instead, I might have to force my two-year-old son to come on a volksmarch with me in a few years. He鈥檒l thank me for it later.

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Backcountry Skiing Under the Full Moon /video/backcountry-skiing-under-full-moon/ Sat, 04 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /video/backcountry-skiing-under-full-moon/ Backcountry Skiing Under the Full Moon

Most skiers click out of their bindings to kick back for a cold one when the lifts stop swinging for the day鈥攂ut not these guys

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Backcountry Skiing Under the Full Moon

Most skiers click out of their bindings and kick back for a cold one when the lifts stop swinging for the day. But in Full Moon, from filmmaker Philipp Becker, skiers and Jochen Mesle celebrate the endless light and bottomless snow with a nighttime ski tour in Austria鈥檚 Montafon valley.

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5 of the Most Incredible Fly-Fishing Trips /adventure-travel/destinations/5-most-incredible-fly-fishing-trips/ Wed, 18 Sep 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/5-most-incredible-fly-fishing-trips/ 5 of the Most Incredible Fly-Fishing Trips

The best spots to catch and release.

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5 of the Most Incredible Fly-Fishing Trips

Scouting for the best location to fly-fish is just as important as choosing the right fly or perfecting the art of presentation. After all, the stunning backdrop to that trophy-fish听photo will set the mood of your home. The character of the place,听along with any culinary delights or natural phenomena,听will offer allthe sensory details you鈥檒l need to tell the most memorable tale. There’s still plenty of action to be had in the fall, when the crowds fade, making it a great time to hit streams too.

Here are听our picks for some far-flung catch-and-release spots worth the trip.

Nefji Waterfall, Iceland

(Nicolas Mathys/iStock)

Fish: Arctic char and brown trout

Imagine trying to stand your ground at the base of one of the most dramatic waterfalls in the highlands of Iceland, the largest undisturbed natural area in Europe. To counterbalance an overhead cast, you have tobrace yourself against the current of the River Kaldakv铆sl, which churns听beneath your feet like a racehorse. If you slip on the rocks, you could get swept downstream鈥攚here slower waters also afford excellent fishing鈥攂ut that鈥檚 part of the excitement. Things are pretty much unpredictable here, except that听you won鈥檛 see anyone else on the river. leases fishing rights from the landowners,听ensuring that no one听hang outhere except its customers (and only four people per day are allowed). Day passes start at $615, which includes a local guide who knows all the secret spots, will bringthe gear you鈥檒l need, and will pick you up from your hotel听in Reykjav铆k.

Rio Palena, Patagonia

(Jmedranoo/Wikimedia Commons)

Fish: Rainbow trout, sea-run brown trout, brook trout, king salmon, Pacific salmon

November and December鈥攕pringtime in the Southern Hemisphere鈥攁re great months听to hurl streamers at trophy browns in the 149-mile Rio Palena, which runs through听Chile and Argentina,听whileJanuary and February鈥攕ummertime鈥攁re perfect for skating and twitching large dries. March brings lower levels of water and more concentrated fish, allowing you to mix dries, streamers, and nymphs.

Treat yourself to an all-inclusive angling trip at (from $1,050), a seven-suite property that opens in October听on the banks of the river.听Wade or float-fish in the freestone waters听right out听front, or sign up for a heli expedition to a remote stretch of river, as directed by your local guides, who听know where to fish the best hatches and how to maximize your time on its听banks.

Getting there isn鈥檛 easy: visitors typically fly into Santiago and then听catch a two-hour regional flight to Puerto Montt before transferring to another 35-minute flight to Chait茅n听and driving three hours to the lodge. But most would argue that the feeling of having the river all to yourself is worth it.

Rock Creek, Montana

(jmaehl/iStock)

Fish: Westslope听cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, cut-bow trout, brown trout, brook trout, bull trout, Rocky Mountain whitefish, Arctic grayling

The 52-mile-long Rock Creek is a blue-ribbon trout stream east of Missoula, Montana, between the Sapphire and John Long Mountains. It has the highest fish counts in the statewithin its fast currents, deep pools, and undercut banks, all easily accessible by wading.

Four miles of Rock Creek runs throughthe,听a luxury dude ranch located on 6,600 acres. While the five-star property has a no-expenses-spared vibe, you鈥檒l find a casual crowd that comes for the Old West spirit and knowledgable guides who can show you the best places to fish and share their secrets on which fly or presentation works best. And because most of Rock Creek flows through Lolo National Forest, anglers have easy access to the stream, as well as campsites and cabins听if you want to go that route. Hiking, mountain biking, and other activities offer a听break from catching fish.

Gauley River, West Virginia

(Ken Thomas/Wikimedia Commons)

Fish: Trout, smallmouth bass, walleye, muskellunge

West Virginia is home to New River Gorge National River, Gauley River National Recreation Area, and Bluestone National Scenic River, but the Gauley has more fish than the other two because of its unique ecosystem and remoteness. The river drops 668 feet through 25 miles of rugged terrain, with steep gradients and treacherous chutes that also make it a world-class whitewater destination.

Bobby Bowers, the owner of , personally designs every trip to each customer鈥檚 specifications, with rates starting at $150. He can get you close to high-yield spots,soall you鈥檒l need to do is a simple roll cast from the raft鈥檚 swivel seat. Stay in a cabin (from $65) or rent a campsite (from $15) at . Besides fishing, the outfitter听also offers rafting, stand-up paddleboarding, mountain biking, and rock climbing.

Horlachbach, Austria

(michaklootwijk/iStock)

Fish: Rainbow trout, brown trout, char

In an area of eastern Austria called 脰tztal, a scenic valley surrounded by 10,000-foot peaks, fly-fishers enjoy deep, clear, oxygen-rich mountain streams like the Horlachbach, a tributary of the 脰tztaler听Ache听Riverthat鈥檚听dotted with waterfalls. Locals claim the relative lack of brush growing along these waterways makes it听ideal for fly-fishing. Stay in tepees, lodges, or double rooms at (from $46) along the high-volume waterway. The area also hasclimbing, caving, canyoneering, and rafting听to fill the time when you鈥檙e not standing in the stream.

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