Aspen Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/aspen/ Live Bravely Tue, 10 Dec 2024 16:02:32 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Aspen Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /tag/aspen/ 32 32 In “Terrible Beauty,” Auden Schendler Explains Why We鈥檙e Losing the Climate Fight鈥攁nd Why We Have to Keep Trying Anyway /culture/books-media/auden-schendler-terrible-beauty-q-and-a/ Sat, 07 Dec 2024 11:00:34 +0000 /?p=2690934 In

Being told we鈥檙e losing the fight against climate change shouldn鈥檛 be hopeful鈥攗nless Auden Schendler鈥檚 doing it

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In

Auden Schendler, one of the biggest climate advocates in the outdoor industry,聽doesn鈥檛 start his new book, Terrible Beauty, with any of the myriad lessons he鈥檚 learned over decades of environmental work. Schendler, who is vice president of sustainability at Aspen One (parent company of Aspen Snowmass), doesn鈥檛 drop into scare tactics, or data, or the myriad ways global warming is harming recreation, business, and our ability to thrive. Instead, he opens with a camping trip in the Utah desert with a couple of buddies, chasing down dirt devils for the sheer glee of being outside in a storm.

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The book goes on to examine the ways we need to approach environmentalism if we want to experience that joy in the future. In his 25 years heading up sustainability initiatives for one of the ski industry’s biggest corporations, Schendler has been at the forefront of climate action. He converted Aspen’s utility to renewables, convinced its tissue supplier to stop cutting down old-growth trees, and led the outdoor industry in political lobbying. But he says we need to do more. A lot more. Corporate sustainability is failing, he says, and individuals aren鈥檛 leveraging enough of our personal and political power because we鈥檝e been cowed into thinking we don鈥檛 have any. And now, the clock is ticking. According to Schendler, modern environmentalism is broken鈥攂ut he has some ideas about how to keep it moving forward.

Terrible Beauty: Reckoning with Climate Complicity and Rediscovering Our Soul is a book about citizenship, the pursuit of purpose, and uphill battles you might not win but have to keep fighting anyway. It鈥檚 a book about right now.

What do you hope people take away from this book?

I want to suck people into the joy of the universe, then give them that technical payload on climate in a way that motivates them. When you ask people, 鈥淲hat do you care about?鈥 It’s things like community and family and wild places. But when you ask them, 鈥淲hat are you doing to protect those things against this existential threat?鈥 they throw up their hands. I wanted to give people tools to figure it out. So there鈥檚 a bunch of stuff about banks and how the financial sector impacts climate change, but this is a book about the human experience. I鈥檓 trying to say modern environmentalism is failing, but what can replace it? Can it be exciting?

Let鈥檚 talk about that failure. You鈥檝e that skiing is toast, and that we鈥檝e failed on climate as a society. How do we go forward in the face of that?

When you鈥檙e in a movement that鈥檚 losing it鈥檚 not glamorous, but this is where I think there鈥檚 a connection to the outdoor world. The purpose has to come in the doing of the thing. It鈥檚 like type 2 fun. It鈥檚 not about winning or losing鈥擨 think in any human endeavor it鈥檚 very rare to be able to say,聽鈥測es, we won.鈥 Instead, we have to think about it like a practice. We鈥檙e improving the world. As much as a day in my life as a climate fighter is depressing, it鈥檚 also fascinating and weird and filled with these odd twists and turns and micro wins and crippling losses. There鈥檚 a lot of glee in getting into mischief.

You argue that the ways we鈥檝e largely been doing environmental work, particularly corporate sustainability, isn鈥檛 actually addressing the root causes of global warming. How do we change?

When we discovered that CO2 was going to be a problem in the fifties, we should have started getting off [fossil fuels], but we didn鈥檛 because we were misinformed, or because politicians were bribed, and since then we鈥檝e been working toward targets that are in line with what the fossil fuel industry would want. For instance, in my world, the outdoor world, you could say, 鈥渓et鈥檚 talk about recycled skis,鈥 but that doesn鈥檛 really move the needle. Instead, we need to be publicly lobbying our peers and elected officials on climate.

What can someone like me, who isn鈥檛 part of a big business or advocacy group, do to move the needle?

My prescription is this: You get a six pack and you get a few smart friends, and you ask each other 鈥淲here do we have power?鈥 You come up with an answer, then dismiss it if it鈥檚 not to scale.

Think about environmental activist Greta Thunberg, who said 鈥淚鈥檓 going to sit in this one spot for a year.鈥 That helped. You have to just try some stuff. The question is really: Do we want to be citizens or not? Can you go to a town council meeting and talk about the planning and zoning board? You can鈥檛 just sign an online letter and call it good. You have to do real stuff and move your body and get out into society, instead of giving into the inclination to stay in or avoid confrontation.

That requires bandwidth, and there are people who don鈥檛 have that, and that鈥檚 OK too. Revolutions don鈥檛 come from 100 percent of the population mobilizing, it鈥檚 typically 4 to 9 percent, and that can make a difference.

Bandwidth, and who has the ability to act on climate, seems like a really big part of the conversation.

When climate is forcing you into survival mode, you don鈥檛 have the leisure that humans need to thrive. You can鈥檛 just be recovering from the last fire or flood all the time. This is environmentalism writ large right now. You think I have the luxury to care about climate? I can鈥檛 feed my family or pay my health care bills. This gets to the broader question of whether we鈥檙e actually taking care of each other, and we鈥檙e not.

The tension in the book is that the thing that could destroy us is also a fundamental opportunity for change as a society. How do you walk that line?

The cover of the book meant to express that. Like, 鈥淒amn, this thing is kind of fucked up, but it鈥檚 still beautiful.鈥 I think about Tolkien’s idea of the long defeat, and how we鈥檙e in this long battle of good versus evil. We鈥檙e slogging through Mordor. I think this is humanity鈥檚 biggest project but we鈥檙e still making things better. It鈥檚 going to be uncomfortable and hard, but it can still be full of purpose and joy.

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If You Live in a Mountain Town, Get Ready for Lots of Houseguests /adventure-travel/essays/how-to-be-good-houseguest/ Thu, 29 Aug 2024 10:00:49 +0000 /?p=2678812 If You Live in a Mountain Town, Get Ready for Lots of Houseguests

Ever since I moved to a beautiful small town in Colorado, people have been coming to visit. I want to see them all鈥攁nd these are some things visitors can do to help me out.

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If You Live in a Mountain Town, Get Ready for Lots of Houseguests

They don鈥檛 call it lifestyle property for nothing. Anyone who is fortunate enough to live in a beautiful place can expect visitors and a lot of houseguests. I know because I live in a mountain town.

When I was younger and living in a shared house in Aspen, I rashly, widely urged friends to visit, to crash in sleeping bags. But then there were more and more. Someone who supposedly knew my brother from college called and asked if she and her brother could stay a few days. (It鈥檚 always 鈥渁 few.鈥) One of my housemates had a romance with a visiting British guy, who came back the next winter with two of his friends. By then she鈥檇 met someone new, and so she left the three Brits sleeping in our living room for days, until I was elected to tell them to decamp.

four friends throwing snow in air
We’re here! And on vacation鈥攚hile you’re not!聽(Photo: mihailomilovanovic/Getty)

In those days of land lines, one time when I came back from work, a visiting friend said, 鈥淚 called Russia.鈥

鈥淵ou 鈥 what?鈥

鈥淚 had to call Russia. You can tell me when you get the bill.鈥

Of course, I鈥檝e stayed in many a friend鈥檚 house, and I love having people for dinner and to visit. But early on in Aspen, my housemates and I realized we had to manage the situation. I started warning people ahead to say I would be working and couldn鈥檛 ski with them every day, nor go out every night. Guests who are on vacation and locals who are not are fundamentally at cross purposes.

Weekend fun at a mountain cabin
Weekend arrivals are much appreciated. (Photo: Jamie Kingham/Getty)

Eventually I got married, moved 30 miles down valley to Carbondale, entered many years of kids and schools, and had visitors, but not the same sort of volume. Lately, though, they are surging anew.

Friends are taking early retirement. Some are self-employed or have reduced their hours, and some are working 鈥渧ery part time.鈥 And there are always teachers with summers off, or just people on breaks: lighthearted, blithe.

Recently a friend said he was coming to town and asked to stay. My husband and I said sure. 鈥淚鈥檒l get there Monday or Tuesday,鈥 the next text said. He arrived Sunday morning: 鈥淥h, I thought it was Monday.鈥

Friends pass through on long road trips, with loaded roof racks and bike racks. People I haven鈥檛 seen in years write, 鈥淗ow are you?鈥 and I know what that means. People ask all the time if I can take time off or do things on weekdays. But I work full-time, and in the last month we鈥檝e had six sets of visitors. I wanted to see every one of them (and insisted on hosting some for certain events), but PTO is finite.

The other change is this: now I work at home. The pandemic. A friend who also works at home recently told her nephew sorry, no, he and his wife couldn鈥檛 come stay on a Tuesday through Thursday. Her old guest room is now her office, which she must use to work. It鈥檚 always easier to have friends on a weekend, but visitors forget, because they鈥檙e on vacation.

young people play board games
Our kids and their friends come, stay, ski, and eat all they want. I love it鈥攁nd just hope it snows. (Photo: Alison Osius)

So, a few suggested tenets for visiting friends in mountain towns and other beautiful places.

1. Ask your hosts well ahead of time if a date works, and offer an easy option to decline. I.e.: 鈥淲e can also camp, so no worries if you have too much going on.鈥 A dear friend came through last week, knew we had our son and his girlfriend here in addition to two people in a van in the driveway, and mercifully said, 鈥淐an you come meet us for dinner one night?鈥

2. It helps to keep your stay to three nights, per the old saying about fish. (An exception is family, especially our now grown kids 鈥 er, and all their friends.)

3. No one was ever anything but pleased with a thoughtful house gift. Anything鈥檒l do. And/or bring food! A cooler is good, too, so you can bring more!

4. Offer to contribute to meals and cover at least one dinner, whether it鈥檚 cooked in your host鈥檚 house鈥攖hat鈥檚 fine! that鈥檚 heaven!鈥攐r at a restaurant.

5. Please put your dishes in the dishwasher. They can鈥檛 make it there from the counter on their own.

6. On leaving, put sheets and towels in the laundry room, and clean up the bathroom a little.

7. Aim to visit on weekends. At the end of 鈥淓verybody鈥檚 Free to Wear Sunscreen,鈥 Baz Luhrmann says, 鈥淭rust me about the sunscreen.鈥 Trust me about the weekends. Midweek is tricky when people work.

8. Help me out. I work a lot. I prefer people not bang on my office door shouting, 鈥淭ime to stop!鈥 Or chide, 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not working again, are you?鈥 or ask, 鈥淲hen are you going to retire?鈥 I like my job, and I鈥檇 like to keep it.

author and her brother on the US Naval ship Mercy
With my brother, Ted Osius, in Da Nang, Vietnam, in 2016. Ted and his family lived in embassy housing in Hanoi and hosted visitors (like me) continually, with a philosophy of benign neglect. 聽(Photo: Alison Osius Collection)

Last, I practice what my brother and his husband鈥攚ho hosted me and everybody else under the sun while they were in the State Department in embassy housing overseas鈥攁lways called benign neglect. Make your own plans, come and go as you like. I鈥檓 glad to see you and will join in if I can, but mostly give you a hug and a house key.

Alison Osius, a senior editor at 国产吃瓜黑料, lives in Carbondale, in Western Colorado. Having stayed with her brother and his family in Indonesia and Vietnam, she hopes they will take her up on visiting her to ski in Colorado next spring break. She鈥檇 hit the slopes with them on the weekend.

three women in front of an A frame
The author with friends Katie Kemble and Jill LaRue, in front of the A-frame in Icicle Creek Canyon, Leavenworth, Washington, where they all once lived and hosted many wanderers. (Photo: Alison Osius Collection)
For more by this author, see:

Colorado’s Storm King Mountain Memorial Trail Takes You to Sacred Grounds

Don鈥檛 Let Altitude Sickness Ruin Your Mountain Vacation. Heed This Doctor鈥檚 Tips to Avoid It.

In 2022 A Stranger Saved Us in a Storm at Green River. Trying to Find Him, I Just Got a Surprise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Summer Work in a Mountain Town: Dreamy. The Rent: Not So Much. /adventure-travel/advice/mountain-town-affordable-housing/ Tue, 28 May 2024 10:30:19 +0000 /?p=2669006 Summer Work in a Mountain Town: Dreamy. The Rent: Not So Much.

A seasonal job in a mountain town is one of the most fun adventures there is. Our Colorado-based columnist offers proven tips on how to land lodging that you can afford.

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Summer Work in a Mountain Town: Dreamy. The Rent: Not So Much.

I want to live and work in a mountain town this summer, but finding affordable housing is proving to be near impossible. Can you give me any tips or direction so I can turn this dream into reality? 鈥擜 Frustrated Flatlander

鈥淚 came for the winter and stayed for the summer鈥 is a common mountain-town refrain. That sentiment, combined with a pandemic-fueled real estate boom, has resulted in a dearth of affordable housing, both seasonal and permanent, in mountain towns across America.

In many small western communities like Steamboat Springs, Durango, and Snowmass, Colorado; Sun Valley, Idaho; and Mammoth Lakes, California, it used to be that employees and locals lived in houses, and tourists stayed in hotels. The reverse is now true: houses are monopolized by Airbnb and VRBO rentals and second homeowners, and some hotels are being purchased by ski resorts and converted to affordable employee housing.

Sadly, more and more essential jobs are going unfilled, some with six-figure salaries, because potential employees can鈥檛 find reasonably-priced rentals. As a result, many mountain towns are shifting their focus to year-round, affordable-housing programs. In Wyoming, for example, Habitat for Humanity of the Greater Teton Area helps to fill critical nursing and teaching positions by building homes for individuals and families making between 30 to 80 percent of the area鈥檚 median income.

What does this mean for seasonal workers? Here鈥檚 my advice for finding affordable summer housing in a mountain town.

Find Towns Working on Their Housing Shortages

A family mountain-bikes downhill above the town of Whitefish, Montana, with a spectacular view of Flathead Lake.
Whitefish, Montana, a beautiful recreation hub, is making a concerted effort to woo more seasonal workers with affordable-housing programs. (Photo: Craig Moore/Getty)

Whitefish, Montana, the gateway to Glacier National Park, is one such place. Its , which supports full-time and seasonal employees, is funded in part by a added to local lodging, food, and transportation. Half of the contributions from its participants go to Housing Whitefish, a nonprofit that facilitates affordable housing.

Part of last year鈥檚 $52,000 allocation went toward a newly launched rental-assistance program, modeled after a similar one in . Over 12 months, Housing Whitefish will distribute a total of $64,620鈥攐r $5,385 a month鈥攖o 17 qualified applicants. (The money goes directly to the property owner or management company.)

The , which advocates for better options in the North Tahoe and Truckee, California communities, aims to add inventory for the local workforce through its recently launched Accessory Dwelling Unit pilot program. Homeowners are incentivized to add rental space that includes a bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen, and in return they receive assistance with building, permitting, and leasing processes.

Although the organization can鈥檛 help you find housing, it does direct prospective renters to resources through the .

Summer flowers in bloom frame a view of the mountain town of Truckee, California, with the Sierra in the background.
Living and working in a mountain town like Truckee, California (above) is a dream of many young people. According to Zillow, the median rent for a one-bedroom home in May was $2,150. At the time, 11 such properties were available. (Photo: Matt Gush/Getty)

In 2022, Breckenridge, Colorado, allocated $50 million to a five-year workforce housing plan to create some 1,000 new units. The town鈥檚 housing fund also receives money from a short-term rental fee requiring owners to pay a set amount for each bedroom they rent. The goal is for nearly half of the town鈥檚 workforce to live in Breckenridge, with a little over a third of the housing inventory reserved for locals.

In 2016, Aspen Skiing Co., the town鈥檚 largest employer, purchased six 280-square-foot tiny homes for about $100,000 each and put them in the Aspen-Basalt Campground for both summer and winter seasonal employees. The project was such a success that it now offers 69 tiny homes for hires, and for the first time this year has introduced units designed to accommodate year-round employees.聽Units range from $550 to $750 a month, and summer leases are available from May 15 through October 31. The units currently have a waitlist for Aspen Skiing Company employees.

The interior of a tiny home in Aspen available to seasonal workers features a kitchen, living room with a L-shaped sofia and, accessed via stairs, a second-level bedroom with windows, a fan, and a mattress.
Aspen Skiing Co.鈥檚 tiny homes, available to seasonal workers, are comfortable, spacious, and affordable, unlike other housing in town. In May, Zillow showed that the average rent for a one-bedroom property was $5,900. (Photo: Courtesy Hal Williams/Aspen Skiing Co.)

Employers in Sun Valley, including the Limelight Ketchum hotel, have also purchased tiny homes in the Meadows RV Park, 3.5 miles away, to rent to employees. Many of these programs run on an application system and most take enrollment for summer employees in March.

Land a Job Before You Head Out

A girl serves a flight of beers at a brewery in Aspen, Colorado. Landing a job before you move to a mountain town is generally a smart course of action.
A recent search for summer work in Aspen, Colorado, showed everything from bartenders and restaurant servers to camp counselors and bike valets. Landing a job before you move to a mountain town is a smart course of action, because you can prove to landlords that you鈥檒l be able to pay. (Photo: RJ Sangosti/MediaNews Group/The Denver Post via Getty Images)

Many large employers, notably ski resorts such as Aspen Snowmass, , and , Colorado, or , Vermont, offer housing or make an effort to help you find housing after you鈥檝e been hired. Sun Valley Resort, for example, has two dorm-style buildings with free laundry and fitness centers available for seasonal employees on a waitlist basis. Two-to-four-person accommodations range from $140 to $210 per person every two weeks. There鈥檚 also an option to pay day-to-day, starting at $10 a day.

Beyond ski resorts, places like offer town employees short-term seasonal rentals, for jobs at businesses like the recreation center or golf course, as well as rental-deposit-assistance programs.

Betsy Crum, housing director for the town of Snowmass Village, notes that winter housing is typically full, while there鈥檚 sometimes more housing available for summer workers.

Montana鈥檚 Big Sky Housing Trust has housing for up to 100 seasonal residents in four- and five-bedroom dorm-style configurations. These units are leased to local independent employers. Lone Mountain Land Company, another major employer in Big Sky, offers dorm-style housing for up to 400 seasonal residents employed by their entities.

Powder Light Development in Big Sky Montana
The Powder Light Development in Montana, part of the Big Sky Housing Trust’s efforts to support affordable housing (Photo: Becky Brockie)

Check Out These Helpful Housing Websites and Social Media Sites

Due to the huge demand for housing, many landlords avoid popular rental-listing sites Craigslist and Zillow. One resident seeking a new tenant for housing she has in Carbondale, Colorado, 30 miles from Aspen, didn鈥檛 publicly post a listing because she knew she鈥檇 be overwhelmed with calls. Instead, she put the word out quietly to friends and looked at posts from people in need of housing on a local Facebook group, .

In fact, local Facebook community groups or neighborhood-focused sites like often have rental listings you won鈥檛 find on larger, public sites like Craigslist. is a free site where you can find a roommate or a room available to rent within a house.

When posting that you鈥檙e seeking housing, be clear about your employment situation, desired rental dates, and budget. Younger people should present themselves as a mature, responsible option, preferably coming in with a job already secured. (For example: 鈥淗ello, I鈥檓 coming here to work for the Solar Institute and need a place to stay from mid-June through July that鈥檚 less than $600 a month.鈥)

You might find success on , a housing marketplace for vacation towns that pays property owners to convert their homes to short- and long-term rentals for the local workforce. Mountain destinations include Woodstock, Vermont; Truckee and South Lake Tahoe, California; Wood River Valley, Idaho; East Placer County, California; and Eagle County, Colorado.

Finally, is a membership-based platform (starting at $10.75 a month) where you can find house-sitting or pet-sitting gigs.

Consider 5 More Resources

1. Look at a Town鈥檚 Website

Many communities offer housing programs or partner with local nonprofits or housing authorities, like the , to administer programs. 鈥淚t鈥檚 always worth a call to any city鈥檚 housing development and housing authority to see if they have resources,鈥 says Daniel Sidder, executive director of Housing Whitefish.

2. Embrace Camping or Vanlife

A handful of tents are pitched on a green, grassy mountainside filled with wildflowers in Crested Butte, Colorado.
Camping for the summer is an option in Crested Butte, and why not, with vistas like these? There are 聽in the area, and many are first come, first served鈥攁lthough you’d have to change sites every 14 days, the maximum stay. Additionally, there鈥檚 land for dispersed camping.聽

In Colorado, and have options for free car camping for a season. You can shower at local rec centers.

3.听Cruise the Town

Some good old-fashioned neighborhood drive-bys to spot 鈥淔or Rent鈥 signs posted outside of apartments, on community boards at grocery stores, or in coffee shops can lead to deals, too.

 

A woman scans the newspaper classifieds while making a call on her cell phone.
Old-school resources like newspaper classifieds can still pay off, with postings for work and accommodations. (Photo: Kanawa_Studio/Getty)

4. Talk to Locals

Lindsay Nohl, 46, enjoyed free communal housing in Tucson, Arizona, while working as the director of NOLS Southwest. But when the campus closed during Covid, she moved to Teton Valley, Idaho. Recently, she made her eighth move in four years, as landlords continue to increase prices or start to rent their properties on Airbnb.

Her go-to strategy for finding cheap housing on the fly? Word of mouth. Another lesson: be flexible. Even though Nohl hasn鈥檛 had a roommate in two decades, she鈥檚 now paying $1,000 a month to share a two-bedroom, 800-square-foot house so she can remain in Teton Valley for the summer.

5.听Scan Newspaper Classifieds

You might come across opportunities to pet-sit or nanny. Or working as a property manager can also lead to free or affordable housing.

Weigh Your Options

A group of people soak in a thermal pool in a field with beautiful views of Mammoth Mountain, California.
Soaking after work in the thermal waters outside the town of Mountain Lakes is a perk of living in this part of the Sierra. California鈥檚 minimum wage also pays more than many other states.聽(Photo: Courtesy Jake Stern)

The last thing you should consider, Flatlander, is which mountain towns are too pricey or too popular. For example, Steamboat, Aspen, and Telluride, Colorado, as well as Jackson, Wyoming, and Big Sky, Montana, have reputations as luxury vacation escapes, which means housing is in high demand and the cost of living will be greater there than in lesser-known but more economical mountain towns like Le Grande, Oregon, and Reno, Nevada. Or even Laramie, Wyoming, which has a lot going for it.

Many seasonal jobs pay minimum wage, which varies from state to state. In Utah and Wyoming, for example, the federal minimum wage is $7.25 an hour, while Montana pays $10.30 an hour, Colorado $14.42 an hour, and California $16 an hour.

You should also consider free services offered by the mountain town you鈥檙e considering. Aspen is expensive, but it offers free public transportation, which is another way to help save on costs.

Spending a summer working in a mountain town can be one of the best experiences of a young person鈥檚 life. I hope my advice lands you good, affordable housing. I鈥檒l be pulling for you.

Author Jen Murphy stops while mountain biking in the woods of Breckenridge, Colorado, for a photo.
The author biking in Breckenridge, Colorado (Photo: Courtesy Jen Murphy)

Travel-advice columnist Jen Murphy has scored affordable rent by offering free travel tips to her landlord, as well as volunteering to take out the building鈥檚 trash cans on garbage day and maintain the gardens.聽

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Should Wealthy Skiers Get to Buy Access to Powder Before the Lifts Open? /adventure-travel/essays/powder-skiing-early-access/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 11:00:42 +0000 /?p=2659301 Should Wealthy Skiers Get to Buy Access to Powder Before the Lifts Open?

Rising predawn to chase powder is sacred in ski culture, but an increasing number of resorts are offering early access programs for people who can afford them

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Should Wealthy Skiers Get to Buy Access to Powder Before the Lifts Open?

My Great Awakening

The powder snow of Japan is so light, so iconic, it has a name: Japow. Born of cold Siberian air streaming over relatively warm ocean water toward Hokkaido, Japow has inspired face-shot aficionados to fly halfway around the world for it. I have been to Niseko and, like the airborne snow crystals sent into a frenzy with every turn, was blown away. Last January, a friend skiing there told me about an offering that reserves the first hour of that incredible snow for VIP customers. I couldn鈥檛 believe my ears, so I looked it up.

The travel website Japan Snowtrip Tips says: 鈥淭rust us, it never felt so good to have a line of shocked powder junkies collectively stare-a-hole right through us as we came cruising back to the lift covered in blower pow from empty early morning Hanazono slopes, only to slide right past them, hop on the chairlift and do it all over again (three times) before anyone else could access the goods.鈥

The subject was Niseko Hanazono Resort鈥檚 first-tracks powder-skiing program, an add-on to its guided backcountry and sidecountry tours. The cost? About $750 lets your group of four chew up fresh powder for an hour before the lifts open, followed by another six hours of guided skiing. I pictured myself as the seething sucker waiting in the lift line.

Two things in skiing are sacrosanct: cherishing powder and honoring the commitment of the ski-bum (snowboarders included) lifestyle. The first because powder is rare and sublime. The second because all true devotees are ski bums or ski bums at heart. This program was an affront to both.

This matters because skiing, already expensive and out of reach for many, is becoming increasingly so, and now, with most of these programs, wealthier people have first dibs on one of its greatest joys.

I knew my hometown area, Aspen Mountain, had a program that had started informally nearly 40 years ago when ski instructors let clients tag along before the lifts opened to practice their skills for certification tests. About 20 years ago, I participated in another version at Aspen, free for anyone who wanted to ride the lifts early. During the 2020-2021 season, the program became an exclusive pre-lift-opening powder and fresh-corduroy experience. I thought the program was an 鈥渙nly in Aspen鈥 thing. The Niseko news made me furious鈥攁nd curious.

On a powder day in early 2023, I arrived at the Aspen Mountain gondola early enough to be among the first dozen in the lift line. As our gondi bucket rose above Copper Bowl, I looked intently down to see it almost completely skied out already. The joyful anticipation ebbed into gloom. Aspen Mountain鈥檚 pay-extra-for-powder group, which can be up to 180 people, had already had 45 minutes to ski Copper.

I grew up when those in the know who had a great desire to ski powder rose early and raced to the lifts to be first in line. Powder days have always been a heady reward for hearty devotion. With this new approach, though, something significant is being taken from the regular skier and rider.

Why does this matter? As with any love affair, the explanation is complex. It matters because the sport, already expensive and out of reach for many, is becoming increasingly so, and now, with most of these programs, wealthier people have first dibs on one of its greatest joys. Many skiers are unaware of the proliferation of these first-access add-ons, but some in the know aren鈥檛 happy about the concept, and a few have even made pleas to a U.S. senator to halt a similarly conceived program called fast tracks, whereby skiers can cut lines during normal lift hours.

The preferential powder forays are expanding. Recently, Aspen Skiing Company announced it will now offer pre-opening guided powder tours through its AspenX luxury brand for groups of up to ten on the locally hallowed ground of Highland Bowl, at Aspen Highlands. The AspenX website notes the tour as $2,500 per person (four-person minimum) with a gourmet breakfast included. The experience is currently offered only on Wednesdays and Fridays and is not available on peak-season dates.

Jeff Hanle, Aspen Skiing Company V.P. of Communications and a passionate skier, told me in an email that the skiing business is fun but challenging. 鈥淩unning ski areas is an expensive and capital-intensive undertaking, so we look for opportunities where you can test new programs and diversify our business to offset headwinds,鈥 he said. When I asked how he would feel about these programs as a 25-year-old powder hound, he said, 鈥淏uilding these potential ancillary offerings for customers does almost nothing to change the experience of the customers who don鈥檛 sign up for them.鈥

Others feel differently. Mikey Wechsler, a legendary Aspen local who skis 160 to 170 days per year (he says he has only missed four skiing days over the last 20 seasons), told me, 鈥淚鈥檓 pissed! Isn鈥檛 skiing elitist enough already? Bottom line is, some things should be earned. You want first tracks? Get up early and be first in line!鈥

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An Armed Man Was Found Dead at a Mountaintop Theme Park in Colorado /outdoor-adventure/hiking-and-backpacking/an-armed-man-was-found-dead-at-a-mountaintop-theme-park-in-colorado/ Wed, 01 Nov 2023 14:50:23 +0000 /?p=2651423 An Armed Man Was Found Dead at a Mountaintop Theme Park in Colorado

Authorities believe the man may have been planning an attack at the Glenwood Caverns 国产吃瓜黑料 Park

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An Armed Man Was Found Dead at a Mountaintop Theme Park in Colorado

A Colorado mountain town is reeling after a local amusement park became the target of an apparent armed attack.

On Saturday, October 28, authorities in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, of a man at the Glenwood Caverns 国产吃瓜黑料 Park, a local theme park located on a mountaintop above town. According to cops, the man was armed with semi-automatic rifles and handguns, plus multiple loaded magazines鈥攈e was carrying improvised explosive devices. The man was also clad in body armor that appeared to resemble law-enforcement garb and a ballistic helmet.

鈥淗e was dressed in black colored tactical clothing, bearing patches and emblems that gave the appearance of being associated with law enforcement,鈥 the Garfield County Sheriff鈥檚 Office said in a statement on Monday.

Sherrifs identified the body as Diego Barajas Medina, 20, a resident of the town of Carbondale, which is located 15 miles south. The Garfield County Coroner reported Medina was found with a suspected self-inflicted gunshot wound to the head. Park officials discovered Medina鈥檚 body in a women鈥檚 bathroom before the park opened for the day.

The Aspen Times that Medina鈥檚 body was found next to writing on the wall, which read, 鈥淚 am not a killer, I just wanted to get into the caves.鈥 Along with rides, Glenwood Caverns also hosts features cave tours. The park is home to the state鈥檚 largest show cave鈥攁 cavern that is open to public visits.

Authorities have not said whether or not they believe Medina intended to harm park visitors with his weapons. But the grisly discovery comes just days after a 40-year-old man killed 18 people at a bowling alley and restaurant in Lewiston, Maine. And, just last week, police in Idaho thwarted a man鈥檚 plan to shoot multiple rock climbers at a climbing festival.

The Glenwood Caverns 国产吃瓜黑料 Park is the only amusement park in the U.S. that is only reached by gondola. Due to the remote nature of the adventure park, Grand County Sheriff Vallario said that it would have been extremely difficult to respond to an emergency if Medina had created a worse-case scenario.

鈥淗e could have done a tremendous amount of damage. You have to take a gondola ride up there. And you’re on the top of a mountain, there’s a lot of people, it’s hilly, its terrain,” Vallario said. “If he had gone through with the worst case scenario, it could have been devastating.”

Sheriff Vallario stated during a press conference that the guns Medina carried were unlicensed ghost guns鈥攖hey were assembled from a kit and not purchased from a licensed outfitter. Among his arsenal was an AR-style rifle.

鈥淲hile this investigation is still ongoing and very active it is important to realize that given the amount of weaponry, ammunition, and explosive devices found, the suspect could have implemented an attack of devastating proportions upon our community and first responders,鈥 a news release from the Sheriff鈥檚 Office stated.

Park officials believe Medina snuck into the park after hours; they think he arrived via a service road.

Authorities said the Federal Bureau of Investigation will examine Medina鈥檚 social media and phone records to determine a motive behind his actions. Glenwood Caverns 国产吃瓜黑料 park will remain closed as the sheriff鈥檚 investigation continues.

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Aspen Ski Resort Co-Owner Dies in Speedway Crash /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/aspen-skiing-co-owner-dies-in-speedway-crash/ Tue, 27 Jun 2023 17:17:55 +0000 /?p=2637322 Aspen Ski Resort Co-Owner Dies in Speedway Crash

James Crown was the patriarch of the family that bought the resort in 1985 and partnered with Alterra Mountain Company in 2018

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Aspen Ski Resort Co-Owner Dies in Speedway Crash

Sad news out of Aspen this weekend, as the Crown family patriarch James Crown was killed in a crash at in nearby Woody Creek on Sunday, June 25. The part-time Aspen resident hit an impact barrier at the member-owned track that races go-karts and race cars. Which type of vehicle he was operating at the time hasn鈥檛 been shared. He was 70 years old.

Crown, who was on the board that operates the ,聽 a think tank that aims to solve complex societal issues, was in town for the Institute鈥檚 annual . 鈥淭he Aspen Institute is deeply saddened by the passing of our dear friend and former Board Chair Jim Crown,鈥 the Institute shared on its website. 鈥淲e love and admire Jim and the Crown Family. Jim was a friend to so many and a consequential member of our Board of Trustees.鈥

Jim Crown was involved in myriad organizations aimed at bettering the world, including the Aspen Institute. (Photo: Jared Siskin/Patrick McMullan/Getty)

Crown, who was currently serving as a managing partner at Aspen Skiing Company, was involved with the ski area since his family purchased half of it in 1985, then the other half in 1993. Despite his many other responsibilities, including chairman and chief executive officer of securities firm Henry Crown and Co., lead director of General Dynamics Corp., and director of JPMorgan Chase, Crown remained rooted in the ski industry. after a big renovation and was involved in the hiring of several executives after former Ski Co. CEO Mike Kaplan stepped down at the end of the season.

国产吃瓜黑料 of the ski industry, Crown, who spent most of his time in Chicago, was dedicated to cleaning up his home city. Just earlier this month, Crown announced an initiative with the Civic Committee of the Commercial Club of Chicago, a nonprofit on which he was a member,聽 to raise money to reduce crime in the city.

Crown is survived by his wife of 38 years, Paula, four children, two grandchildren, and his parents.

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Our Picks for the Best 国产吃瓜黑料 Destinations This Summer /adventure-travel/advice/where-to-travel-this-summer/ Thu, 01 Jun 2023 10:30:45 +0000 /?p=2633966 Our Picks for the Best 国产吃瓜黑料 Destinations This Summer

Here it is June and you鈥檙e still turning over travel plans? Come along with us, as we head out to see wolves, test our mettle on Tour de France ascents, trek across one of Colorado鈥檚 most photographed mountain passes, and generally get outside in big, bold ways this season.

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Our Picks for the Best 国产吃瓜黑料 Destinations This Summer

Summer is on. And this is the summer to beat all summers, as millions of American travelers attested over Memorial Day weekend, taking to the roads and skies to kick off the season in record numbers. 国产吃瓜黑料 staffers have plenty of their own exciting getaways planned, including hiking from mountain town to mountain town in Colorado, pedaling and cork-popping in Provence, road-tripping to visit wolves and see iconic high-desert scenery in the American Southwest, and more. You, too, can go聽big.

Reveling in Rocky Mountain Highs and Pies

A summer view of Maroon Creek Valley, Colorado, with wildflowers and an alpine lake
Maroon Creek Valley (Photo: Getty Images/SeanXu)

I take full advantage of my birthday each year by forcing my friends鈥攁 group not quite as adventurous as聽me鈥攖o come along for activities they鈥檇 usually roll their eyes at. This year we鈥檙e hiking in Colorado from Aspen to Crested Butte, an 11-mile day trip over 12,500-foot , with some 3,000 feet of elevation gain. (My friends must truly love me.) We鈥檝e tapped one friend,聽who I couldn鈥檛 convince to trek with us, to drop the rest of us off and pick us up,聽though that service is also offered locally聽by Dolly鈥檚 Mountain Shuttle and Alpine Express. While I鈥檓 most looking forward to gorgeous lakes, vibrant wildflowers, and expansive views of the Elk Range, my pals are excited to spend a night in the towns on each end. We鈥檒l be fueling up on caffeine and pastries at Local Coffee House in Aspen on the front end and celebrating our accomplishment with pizza and beer at Secret Stash,聽my favorite spot in Crested Butte. The decor feels like an Indian restaurant and a Red Robin collided, with a distinctly ski-town vibe, and the weird and wonderful pizzas are to die for. 鈥擬ikaela Ruland, associate content director at National Park Trips

Recreating on the Jersey Shore

Stone Harbor, New Jersey, whose summer sands have drawn big crowds for more than a century
A busy beach in Stone Harbor (Photo: John Greim/LightRocket)

I’ll always be a defender of the Jersey Shore, particularly Stone Harbor, located on Seven Mile Island. This East Coast beach town is home to tons of wildlife, soft sand, and the best seafood. It’s the perfect spot for large families to gather. I’m looking forward to my seaside runs and bike rides along the path that extends the entirety of the island. It鈥檚 also fun to kayak the marsh along the bay side or head just over Gull Island Thorofare Bridge to check out the Wetlands Institute. When you鈥檙e looking for a respite from the bustle, stroll down Second Avenue聽to the Stone Harbor Bird Sanctuary. I鈥檝e never considered myself much of a birder, yet I always love walking the sanctuary鈥檚聽trails. A mile north is Springer鈥檚, which makes the best homemade ice cream in the world. On summer nights, the line for a cone can wrap around the block. Other can鈥檛-miss establishments include Quahog鈥檚 Seafood Shack and Bar for dinner, and Coffee Talk for your morning caffeine fix (it鈥檚 the famed establishment where Taylor Swift once performed acoustic shows). 鈥擡llen O鈥橞rien, digital editor

Wheeling About Provence

The Provincial town of Venasque, France
The historic village of Venasque, France (Photo: Getty Images/John S Lander/LightRocket)

At some point in planning this summer鈥檚 adventure, I recalled a favorite saying from Oscar Wilde: 鈥淚t is what you read when you don鈥檛 have to that determines what you will be when you can鈥檛 help it.鈥 How true. Every morning I open to peruse the latest highlights from the European cycling scene, and most evenings I consult The New York Times鈥 cooking section for an interesting recipe. Blend those reading habits, add a dash of Francophilia, and鈥攙oil脿鈥擨 find myself heading to Provence. For cool temperatures, zero crowds, and the glorious light of autumn in the Luberon Valley, my wife and I will spend a week exploring back roads and high peaks by bike in the department of Vaucluse. Each morning we鈥檒l stock up at a local patisserie before rolling out of the tiny medieval town of Venasque, whose untouched Gallo-Roman architecture and clifftop views earned it the designation of one of the 126 most beautiful villages in France. We鈥檒l pedal until hunger or a vineyard beckon, with an ascent of Mont Ventoux (an iconic Tour de France climb) as the week鈥檚 big goal. Come evening we鈥檒l meander alongwinding country roads in search of a quiet bistro, perhaps in another village, like Carpentras or聽Roussillon, for a Proven莽al feast of bouillabaisse or black truffle omelet, paired with a bottle of the ros茅 for which this region is famous. For dessert we鈥檒l hope for a slice of clafoutis, a traditional flan-like tart loaded with plump apricots or black cherries sourced from a nearby orchard. All of which merits another maxim, this one from聽the聽legendary 19th-century gourmand Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. 鈥淒is-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es,鈥 he said, which translates to 鈥淭ell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.鈥 Would it come as any surprise that Brillat-Savarin was French, born just a few hours up the Rh么ne River from Venasque? 鈥擩onathan Dorn, senior vice president of strategy and studios

Rafting Down the Rogue

A natural bridge along the Pacific Ocean near Gold Beach, Oregon
A natural bridge near Gold Beach, Oregon (Photo: Getty Images/MBRobin)

Every summer my family and I go on vacation where I grew up, on the southern coast of Oregon. Gold Beach, a town of some 2,000 people, is nestled between timber-covered mountains and the mighty Pacific, with the mouth of the Rogue River serving as its northern edge. As an outdoorsman, I鈥檝e always loved going back, but I appreciate it more and more each time I return. There are three amazing ways to experience the Rogue. One is rafting the 32.4-mile Wild Rogue section of Class III鈥揑V rapids, a trip that can be tackled in three or four days; it requires a hard-to-get permit or a guide setup, but you鈥檒l never forget floating through this remote section of canyon. The second way to see it is with , a jet-boat operator whose charming staff grew up in the area and are super knowledgeable about the flora and fauna you鈥檙e likely to see, including river otters, black bears, bald eagles, and ospreys. If you have the time, take the company’s Wilderness Whitewater Tour, which stops at Cougar Lane Lodge, famous for its BBQ. The third option, if the bite is on, is to go Chinook salmon fishing in the mouth of the river, preferably with local legend and guide Helen Burns. If you鈥檙e staying in town and want to be close to the beach and amenities, book the Beach Pea Suite at the new 鈥攊t has a glorious soaking tub. Good eats are plentiful in the area, and some of my favorite places are the Barnacle Bistro, Tu Tu Tun Lodge, and the award-winning Redfish Restaurant in Port Orford. For beer, you can’t go wrong with anything from Arch Rock Brewing Company, but the Pistol River Pale is outstanding. You also shouldn鈥檛 miss the short hike down Cape Sebastian: It starts from an overlook about 800 feet above the ocean, giving you views for miles in any direction; from there you鈥檒l descend just shy of two miles through Sitka spruce, salmonberry bushes, and ferns to the beach, where waves break powerfully against sandstone cliffs, even during the summer. Check out the tide pools before the climb back out. And finally, if you have kids, don鈥檛 miss Prehistoric Gardens in Port Orford, where 23 life-size dinosaur replicas are hidden in the old-growth forest. The quiet and solitude of this moss-covered grove is spectacular. 鈥擶ill Taylor, group gear director

Roaming Around Historic Annapolis

A drone view of the city of Annapolis, Maryland
Annapolis (Photo: Getty Images/Greg Pease)

Annapolis, Maryland, on the Chesapeake Bay, is where I come from and where I return every year. For one thing, they have flowers鈥攂ursting tulip magnolias in rows, and lilacs鈥攊n spring when scraps of snow still cover my hillside in Colorado, and now the hydrangeas, snapdragons, magnolias, and peonies should be out, with the locust blooms just finishing. In my friend Molly鈥檚 family, the locust blooms are a sign that soft crabs are running. The best time to go is summer, because there are so many things to do. We kids grew up swimming, sailing, windsurfing, and water-skiing. We went crabbing in dinghies with trotlines or by roaming around docks and pilings with crab nets in hand. The historic town (Annapolis was the nation鈥檚 capital from 1783 to 1784) is built around two brick-paved circles; the State House, where the Maryland legislature meets, and St. Anne鈥檚 Church are set in, respectively, State Circle and Church Circle, to symbolize separation of church and state. Near both is the harbor, where the oyster boats used to dock, and the Market House, housing many concessions, where my siblings and I worked. (I scooped ice cream, gaining a mean right arm.) You can buy crab cakes, oysters, soups, cheese, and fruit there, and walk across the street to a statue of Alex Haley, the author of Roots, reading a book to children; it commemorates the shameful fact that his forebear Kunte Kinte was sold here at the City Dock. You might also visit St. John鈥檚 College (established in 1696) and the adjacent Naval Academy. Don鈥檛 miss the clam chowder at Middleton鈥檚 Caf茅 (which dates back to 1750) or the fun scene at McGarvey鈥檚, a tavern where my grown sons now go get beers. On a beautiful day, hike (it is intermittently closed, but you can still walk around the area), looking out at the Chesapeake and the four-mile Bay Bridge, or take the loop trail in Quiet Waters Park on the South River. 鈥擜lison Osius, senior editor

Off-Roading in Iceland

The Fjadra River cutting through Fjadrarglufur Canyon located off Iceland's Ring Road
The Fjadra River cutting through Fjadrarglufur Canyon, just off the Ring Road (Photo: Getty Images/Arctic-Images)

My husband and I are beyond stoked: we鈥檙e headed to Ireland and Iceland for a two-week adventure. He hasn鈥檛 been to Ireland, but I lived there as a kid, so I鈥檝e got that country dialed. It鈥檒l be a whirlwind coastal tour, with a climb up Croagh Patrick, near my old cottage on the west coast. Iceland, however, remains untapped for us both. We love a thermal-springs soak after hard hikes and trail runs, and prefer to dodge crowds and drive less, so this smallish outdoor mecca was a no-brainer addition. We鈥檒l play it fast and loose, but here鈥檚 how I think our trip will go down: After we fly into Reykjav铆k, the capital, we鈥檒l pick up our rented Dacia Duster 4X4 camper van with a rooftop tent ($900 for five days, it鈥檚 tricked out with sleeping and cooking essentials and a hot spot for GPS; for more information, visit ). We鈥檒l hit the B贸nus grocery store鈥攊t鈥檚 the cheapest option on the pricey island, according to a seasoned buddy鈥攖o stock up on supplies, and then we鈥檒l head northeast on the Ring Road, a.k.a. Route 1, to the fjords, vales, and 4,000-foot summits of the Tr枚llaskagi Peninsula. Along the way, we鈥檒l take offshoot F-roads (F for 蹿箩盲濒濒, which means 鈥渕ountain鈥 in Icelandic), summer-only gravel tracks restricted to four-wheel-drive vehicles. By crisscrossing over central peaks, we鈥檒l access remote terrain rich with waterfalls, lava fields, alpine valleys, and camping spots that most of Iceland鈥檚 seven million annual tourists don鈥檛 explore. We鈥檒l circle back south to scrub away our dirt and sweat at the geothermal Blue Lagoon ($64 for day tickets) before聽departing. All told, it鈥檒l be an unscripted, abbreviated blast, and I consider this a reconnaissance mission for next time. 鈥擯atty Hodapp, interim digital director

Road-Tripping Through the Native Southwest

 

This summer I’m focusing on road trips, and luckily I live in Santa Fe, New Mexico, a good place to launch from. I’ve been so dismayed by recent delays and cancellations from plane travel that I don’t feel like spending any more time than I have to in airports. Which is fine, because I’ve had a Southwest bucket list that I’m excited to finally make a dent in. Near the top of my list is a guided tour of the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary in western New Mexico, near El Morro National Monument. The sanctuary takes in both wild and domesticated wolves and protects them for the rest of their lives. Rumor has it that author George R.R. Martin, also a Santa Fe resident, has supported the sanctuary, and some of the wolves are named after his Game of Thrones characters. From there I plan to head west to visit some important Native sites. I want to go to Canyon de Chelly, in northeastern Arizona, and take a Navajo-led horseback tour. Canyon de Chelly, often called a mini Grand Canyon, is part of the Navajo Nation. Evidence of human occupation there dates back 4,000 years. It’s also the tragic spot where Kit Carson forced out the Navajo in 1863. Then I’m going to head to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, on the Utah border. Also a part of the Navajo Nation, this stunning landscape and its spectacular sandstone buttes show up on my Instagram feed聽every so often, and I want to learn about the history on a Navajo-guided tour and experience the awe and grandeur. 鈥擬ary Turner, deputy editor and travel director

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To Save the Soul of a Mountain Town /podcast/save-soul-mountain-town-aspen-skiing/ Wed, 01 Mar 2023 10:55:59 +0000 /?post_type=podcast&p=2621821 To Save the Soul of a Mountain Town

In Aspen, Colorado, and other alpine communities, the future depends on making sure the weirdos and oddballs are still welcome

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To Save the Soul of a Mountain Town

In Aspen, Colorado, and other alpine communities, the future depends on making sure the weirdos and oddballs are still welcome. That鈥檚 what gets concerned locals the most animated: any suggestion that their neighborhoods are becoming exclusive playgrounds for the rich, forcing out the gonzo characters that help make them so special. What鈥檚 needed, according to planning experts and many longtime residents, are smarter growth strategies that include affordable housing, increased transportation options, and forward-thinking management of public lands. For this episode, we take a walk around Aspen and ask what it鈥檒l take to get such things done.

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A Skier鈥檚 Guide to Aspen鈥檚 Best Restaurants /food/a-skiers-guide-to-aspens-best-restaurants/ Fri, 06 Jan 2023 15:37:55 +0000 /?p=2616881 A Skier鈥檚 Guide to Aspen鈥檚 Best Restaurants

Aspen鈥檚 winning combo of four ski mountains (all on one ski pass!) also extends to its restaurant scene. From fine dining to grab-and-go, there鈥檚 something for everyone.

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A Skier鈥檚 Guide to Aspen鈥檚 Best Restaurants

While Aspen itself isn鈥檛 very big, per capita there鈥檚 about one restaurant for every 10 residents. That means answering the inevitable question of 鈥渨here to eat鈥 can be overwhelming. Our shortcut guide will save you time (better to focus your energy on the slopes anyway) and deliver a bevy of good eats no matter what you鈥檙e craving. P.S. Reservations are pretty much a must in this town.

DINNER

In recent years, it鈥檚 gotten more and more difficult to find a reasonably priced meal in Aspen proper. Amid the glut of uber-fancy restaurants, what are the standouts and what about the everyman and everywoman?

During the pandemic, chef-owner C. Barclay Dodge transitioned Bosq鈥檚 Spanish-inspired 脿 la carte format into a four-, five-, and seven-course chef鈥檚 tasting menu. The carefully curated multi-course experience is the best way to shine a light on Dodge鈥檚 immense talent and true dedication to the very best (and often local) ingredients. If you can nab a table here, you won鈥檛 leave disappointed.

Don鈥檛 miss: Chef Dodge has a way with duck and several cuts often make their way onto the menu. If you have to choose just one for your tasting, make it the duck liver mousse with buckwheat crisps.

For those nights when you鈥檙e looking for a place to disappear, Ellina is queen. The grotto-esque space creates the perfect cozy hideout, especially because the menu is as sun-drenched as the Italian countryside. Seek owner and sommelier Jill Carnevale鈥檚 expertise and you won鈥檛 leave hungry or thirsty. Plus, locals know that Ellina offers one of the best (and last) good bar menus.

Don鈥檛 miss: You can make a meal out of the braised artichoke with lemon-thyme aioli, one of the housemade pastas, and a glass of G茅rard Boulay Sancerre-Chavignol from the Loire Valley.

If you鈥檙e willing to leave Aspen鈥檚 core, make your way to Mawa鈥檚 Kitchen where James Beard-nominated chef Mawa McQueen envelopes you with her warmth and hospitality. McQueen works her magic breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but it鈥檚 at dinner that her African heritage shines with dishes like yucca gnocchi, merguez sausage, fonio fried rice, and West African gumbo dot the menu. There鈥檚 a lot of French influence in McQueen鈥檚 cooking and sitting at her table is both a global and delicious journey.

Don鈥檛 miss: Also visit Mawa鈥檚 for breakfast. If you鈥檙e in a hurry, choose a slice of banana bread with maple butter, or the Parisienne omelet with Boursin and farm greens if you鈥檙e not.

There鈥檚 something about Italian food that invites the party鈥攁nd that鈥檚 Campo through and through. The food (rich pastas, tender risottos, long-roasted meats) and extensive wine list never disappoint, and neither does the cacophony of energy swirling through the place.

Don鈥檛 miss: Never skip past the tricolore salad. This deliciously bitter combo of dressed arugula, radicchio, and Belgian endive is finished with shaved Grana Padano.

 

While most tourists flock to (the very good) Matsuhisa, those in the know make their way to Keniche. The sushi staple has been going strong since 1991, and recently opened an outpost in Snowmass and an izakaya in Carbondale. It feels extra special to dine in the glossy original (cue the mood lighting) and even better if you can secure a seat at the sushi bar.

Don鈥檛 miss: You鈥檇 be remiss not to order the signature yellowtail sashimi with聽basil yuzu soy and聽just a blush of truffle oil.

With locations in Steamboat Springs and Breckenridge, Aurum gets the ski town vibe鈥攁nd understands what hungry skiers want after (or during) a day on the slopes. When the restaurant opened in Snowmass last winter, it debuted with an all-day menu that鈥檚 an elevated catchall: French onion burger, Korean fried chicken, honey-glazed shrimp, vegan tomato soup, and more. Plus, the bar shakes and stirs a mean cocktail.

Don鈥檛 miss: You鈥檒l be fighting to the last crumb when you order warm chocolate-chip cookies with milk jam, cookie dough (yes!), and whipped cream.

If you鈥檝e got kids in tow, 叠谤耻苍别濒濒别蝉肠丑颈鈥檚 should be at the very top of your list. The family-friendly spot is right downtown and has a menu of DIY items that鈥檒l please even the pickiest eater. The make-your-own pizza, pasta, or mac and cheese options are kid magnets, meanwhile, the adults can order glasses of wine and share a hefty wedge of lasagna.

Don鈥檛 miss: The roasted veggie panini is often overlooked at dinner but it shouldn鈥檛 be.

LUNCH

The mid-day meal can be a condo sandwich, but wouldn鈥檛 you rather go out and explore?

Meat & Cheese鈥檚 come-as-you-are vibe is all about being a gathering place. The dishes are thoughtful and farm-inspired spins on dishes like biscuits with shaved ham, rotisserie chicken with roasted potatoes, and most definitely the best salads in town. You can dine for lunch or dinner, but the camaraderie of the place during the day will draw you in.

Don鈥檛 miss: Pop into the farm shop for a selection of specialty items such as cheese, honey, and artisan bread. Take an armful back to the condo for gourmet snacks at the ready.

 

This beloved lunch spot is so well known it doesn鈥檛 need a website or an active Facebook page. It started with wraps鈥攁nd huge ones at that鈥攂ut over the years has expanded its menu to include聽salads, tacos, breakfast burritos, soups, and smoothies. Unless you are borderline starving, two of you can share one $10 wrap.

Don鈥檛 miss: The To Thai For wrap with grilled chicken (or tofu), peanut sauce, rice, black beans, and confetti slaw in a chile tortilla. The beans might sound weird in the mix but leave 鈥榚m in there.

This vegetarian and organic food and juice bar feels oh so L.A., oh so NYC, oh so鈥spen. While in truth Spring Cafe recently opened a New York location, the restaurant began in Aspen and was a hit from the get-go. Fresh salads make up a hunk of mid-day lunch menu but there鈥檚 also a healthy spin on many of your favorite lunch items: avocado tempeh reuben, sweet potato-white bean burger, nachos with cashew cheese, even spinach-mushroom enchiladas.

Don鈥檛 miss:聽The chickpea tuna pita sandwich, which comes jammed with all kinds of veggies.

Bear Den鈥檚 all-day menu means you can lap up a spirulina smoothie bowl, tuck into eggs Benedict with house challah, or bite into a Wagyu burger anytime between 8:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. The space is as cute as can be so only dine when you鈥檝e got time to sink into the experience.

Don鈥檛 miss: Add smoked feta to the Green Pearl salad鈥擣rench lentils, arugula, roasted beets, red onion, fresh herbs, and walnuts鈥攁nd your day is made.

It鈥檚 been fancied up a bit since Hunter S. Thompson used to hang out at the bar (let鈥檚 just say ceviche wasn鈥檛 on the original menu), but the Tavern is still an Aspen valley treasure. Go for the burgers, the margaritas, and the onion rings.

Don鈥檛 miss: The polaroids, the bumper stickers, the 鈥淭hompson for Sheriff鈥 poster are a piece of old Aspen鈥攖ake a gander.

ON MOUNTAIN

Between the four mountains, there are a number of dining options. These are the best.

聽(Located on Aspen Mountain, at mid-mountain.)

The word is out on this local鈥檚 secret, and although聽we聽hate to further increase the deluge that already descends upon 叠辞苍苍颈别鈥檚 every morning, the pancakes are that good. To be clear, these are oatmeal聽pancakes the size of dinner plates and they go down perfectly with a mimosa ordered from the tiny bar.

Don鈥檛 miss: If you get there so much as one minute past 10:45 a.m., you鈥檙e out of luck. Moral of the story: Don鈥檛 be late.

聽(Located at the base of Aspen Mountain.)

There鈥檚 a lot of lore behind truffle fries鈥 origins but surely,聽surely, Ajax Tavern was on the front end of the indulgent fry trend. The truth is, the fries pretty much put Ajax Tavern on the map鈥攖hat and the fact that the restaurant sits at the base of Aspen Mountain and becomes a daily collection point for the see-and-be-seen crowd.

Don鈥檛 miss: Obviously the truffle fries, along with the mussels.

聽(Located at the base of Buttermilk.)

Although not technically an on-mountain restaurant, Home Team sits just steps from Buttermilk鈥檚 base (you can see it from the Summit Express lift line) and it鈥檚 worth your while. The menu is deep with pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey, ribs, and all the barbecue fixings. Even the salads get special treatment here.

Don鈥檛 miss: The tots, with harissa mayo and rosemary, are a revelation.

聽(Located on Snowmass at the top of the Village Express lift.)

Plain and simple: If we didn鈥檛 know how to ski, we would learn just to dine at 厂补尘鈥檚. The restaurant sits like a snow globe at the top of 厂补尘鈥檚 Knob with unobstructed views of the Elk Mountains. Enjoy the panorama with slippers on your feet and a Negroni spritz in-hand. The hearty Italian menu (pastas, arancini, eggplant parmesan) will set you right for the rest of the day. The only bummer is putting your ski boots back on post-lunch.

Don鈥檛 miss: Share a number of items, like the warm ricotta with honey and the beef tartare, from the top of the menu.

BREAKFAST

Fuel up quickly or take your time鈥攚hatever your morning speed, there鈥檚 something for you.

Even if you鈥檙e in a rush to get to the gondola, there鈥檚 always time for Jour de F锚te鈥檚 takeout window. This family-run staple is the beating heart of Aspen and it鈥檚 heavily populated by locals trading good mornings and snow reports. The breakfast burritos and sandwiches are easily wrapped to go but if you鈥檝e got a few minutes, stay a while and order the huevos rancheros or an omelet.

Don鈥檛 miss: Go back for lunch and ogle the hot and cold sandwich board. The pan bagnat is a favorite.

When you want something clean and healthy, JUS delivers with the likes of protein balls (try the Snickerdoodle), fresh-pressed juices, and green smoothies. There are also smoothie bowls, sammies, and breakfast quesadillas. The price tag might make you gulp but your energy level will be tip-top.

Don鈥檛 miss: The Road Runner (almonds, alkaline water, espresso, honey, and pink Himalayan sea salt) revs you up better than the strongest cup of joe. Buy a Ginger Greens juice (kale, cucumber, celery, spinach, romaine, parsley, lemon, and ginger) for later.

Most folks think of Element 47 for dinner (which is magnificent) but we go for breakfast. The polished hospitality makes you feel like royalty, even if you鈥檙e just ordering coffee and toast. The menu is small but mighty and well-balanced between sweet and savory.

Don鈥檛 miss: We鈥檝e firm believers that the lemon souffl茅 pancakes are the fluffiest, dreamiest breakfast on the planet.

Whether you鈥檙e headed skiing, shopping, or ice skating in Snowmass, the Crepe Shack delivers the right amount of savory and sweet with its lengthy crepe menu. Eat there or take your treat to go in a walkabout cone.

Don鈥檛 miss: The High Alpine with prosciutto, potatoes, Gruyere, Swiss, and caramelized onions hits the brunch note just right.

The post A Skier鈥檚 Guide to Aspen鈥檚 Best Restaurants appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Aspen Has Been Overrun by Zillionaires. Has the Town Lost Its Gonzo Soul? /adventure-travel/essays/gonzo-aspen-overrun-by-billionaires/ Thu, 05 Jan 2023 11:00:10 +0000 /?p=2614240 Aspen Has Been Overrun by Zillionaires. Has the Town Lost Its Gonzo Soul?

Aspen has been as celebrated for its original characters as much as for its beauty, steep skiing, and epic powder. But with a billionaire on every corner, can a place stay weird?

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Aspen Has Been Overrun by Zillionaires. Has the Town Lost Its Gonzo Soul?

The death of Bob Braudis, Pitkin County鈥檚 six-term elected sheriff from 1985 until 2010, was no shock. He was only 77, but color had drained from his cheeks; he talked more slowly, breathing heavily between words; and he had begun walking with a cane. Bob was a friend, but not a tight friend. We exchanged emails over local columns I wrote, and usually talked at gatherings where we both happened to be. There was no apparent reason for feeling heartbroken, but when I heard the news I sighed deeply and rubbed my eyes to hold back tears. Bob鈥檚 memorial service drew hundreds to the Benedict Music Tent on the famous Aspen Institute campus. Nobody has that many close friends. Only those who create widespread connections attract such congregations.

Bob, a long-haired, six-foot-six gentle giant, was the epitome of an Aspen character. Joe DiSalvo, his close friend and successor as sheriff, told me a story that captured Bob鈥檚 free, exuberant spirit, from years ago when ESPN was 鈥渋nterviewing Aspen鈥 to see if it was a worthy locale for the X-Games.

鈥淏ob and I went to meet some ESPN suits at Highlands. One of the execs shook Bob鈥檚 gigantic hand. The exec asked, 鈥楪eez, where鈥檇 you get those hands?鈥 Bob replied, 鈥楾hey came with my dick.鈥欌 Aspen has hosted the ESPN Winter X-Games for two decades running.

Sheriff Bob Braudis and former Aspen mayor, Stacey Standley, horsing around on the gondola plaza, 1990.
Sheriff Bob Braudis and Stacey Standley, Aspen mayor starting in 1973 (when as a 28-year-old bartender he prevailed in a crowded election and then served three terms), horse around on the gondola plaza in 1990. The two were judges for a contest called Maestro for a Minute. (Photo: /Durrance Collection)

The sadness I felt was for certainly, but it was also over the loss of the wacky individualism he took from this world and, more acutely, the town. Bob was the latest on a long list of original Aspen characters now gone, from the truly famous, like John Denver and the gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson, to local oddballs like the serial letter-to-the-editor author Pete Luhn, who wrote almost daily, seemingly only to provoke fights with other readers, and lesser-known old-timers today immortalized by eponymous local landmarks. Puppy Smith Street is the namesake of Harold Smith, a career City of Aspen streets-department employee who once remarked to a couple of kids that the puppies they were selling for a dollar each were so ugly they鈥檇 have to pay him to take one, at which point they handed over a pup and a buck. No Problem Bridge is named for Joe Candreia, who was known for a front-yard junk collection next to his garden, where he claimed he could grow anything, 鈥渘o problem.鈥 The ski run called Felip鈥檚 Leap on Highland Bowl honors a local waiter, Henry Felip, who drove a 1948 Willy鈥檚 Jeep Truck, electing to wear goggles instead of sunglasses, and took all dares to ski any mountain chute or kayak any section of a river, which ultimately resulted in his death on a stretch of whitewater rapids on the Crystal River called Meat Grinder during spring runoff.

Both DiSalvo and his former brother-in-law, Michael Buglione, who were in the midst of a heated sheriff鈥檚 election, were at the memorial. While the two rivals appeared to be similar in their commitment to upholding Aspen鈥檚 historically progressive and humane approach to illegal drug use鈥攚hich basically posits that adults can decide for themselves, we have to protect kids, and addicts shouldn鈥檛 be put in jail鈥攖he election was essentially about convincing voters who was most like Braudis. Also at Bob鈥檚 service was Mick Ireland, Aspen鈥檚 quixotic one-time-or-another mayor, reporter, county commissioner, attorney, distance runner, city councilperson, cyclist, and columnist. DiSalvo had somehow gotten crosswise with Ireland during the campaign, and the loss of his support was probably what would cost him the close election.

Slumped on my front porch that afternoon waiting out a thunderstorm, I wondered how the Aspen Times journalist Mary Eshbaugh Hayes would have viewed Braudis鈥檚 passing. Renowned for her keen observations, Hayes covered Aspen society for 45 years, until her death at 86 in 2015. She wrote about everything without aiming to please anyone. She was an Aspen iconoclast who could distinguish between phonies and free spirits. Hayes could have told me what I really wanted to know: Is anyone coming to replace the characters Aspen is losing?

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