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With Kelly Slater as his chief ambassador, SoCal surf legend Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz had a plan to teach the kids of Israel and Palestine how to get barreled鈥攁nd bring peaceful vibes to the Middle East along the way. Of course that was before the Hamas supporters, the hashish, and the paparazzi got in the way.
It takes a particular kind of crazy to ride a 75-foot mountain of water鈥攗nless you鈥檙e Greg Long, a calm, well-adjusted dude who geeks out on his laptop and approaches surfing like he鈥檚 playing chess. Meet the oddly normal champion of big waves.
And that's according to some of the very athletes they're trying so desperately to woo
In the third episode of 鈥楰elly Slater: Lost Tapes,鈥 Slater travels to Bali where he learns some sad news about his friend
Denim so soft and stretchy, you won't want to take it off
Asperger鈥檚 turns social interaction into a source of suffering. 鈥淚t鈥檚 like everyone else has a bucket for dealing with people,鈥 says Clay, 鈥渁nd I only got a cup.鈥
We emailed the professional badass questions about his life in Jackson, his family, and his greatest achievements
The death of Hilaree Nelson highlights a double standard that still exists with mothers in the adventure world
For our 40th anniversary in 2017, we decided to throw a year-long party