It鈥檚 been a long fall for Quiksilver from the heady days of the 1990s and early 2000s, when the Australian-born brand rode a tidal wave of popularity in surfwear among people who had never set foot on a board.聽
The iconic brand鈥攆ounded in 1969, now based in Huntington Beach, California鈥攂ecame the first publically-traded surfwear company in 1986.聽Earlier this week it was trading below聽50 cents, and was suspended from聽the New York Stock Exchange. On Wednesday, the company 聽that it鈥檚 declaring bankruptcy, and that the Los Angeles-based investment firm Oaktree Capital Management will gain a majority stake in the business as part of its turn-around effort. 聽
The company and its chief brands鈥擰uiksilver, Roxy women鈥檚 wear, and DC shoes鈥攚ill continue operating. But store closures are expected, continuing a pattern of contractions that began two years ago as the company tried to stem mounting financial losses. (The bankruptcy doesn鈥檛 affect the company鈥檚 European or Asia-Pacific units.)聽
Before the wipeout, this was the dream: Board shorts and T-shirts emblazoned with surf-brand logos would be a lasting trend. But fashion-fickle youth have shifted away from the look, says Mitch Kummetz, a senior analyst at the investment bank B. Riley & Co., who has followed the Quicksilver Company since 1998. In women鈥檚 wear, cheaper 鈥渇ast fashion鈥 has gained marketshare in the wake of the recession. More traditional sportswear from companies like Under Armor has also grown more popular, he says.聽
Key retailers聽were put off by strategies like direct sales to customers that would bypass surf and skate shops, says Kummetz. They also cut back on spending on competitions and athlete sponsorships.
The number of Americans actually surfing doesn鈥檛 appear to have changed much. Participation has grown from 2.2 million in 2007 to 2.7聽million in聽2013, according to studies by the Outdoor Foundation, a non-profit arm of the outdoor industry. But this could be beside the point, since many of the people buying into the look aren鈥檛 actually picking up a board, says Kummetz.
That shift in cultural currents was compounded by a series of business missteps. The biggest was the company鈥檚 ill-fated foray into winter sports. In 2005, Quiksilver bought the Rossignol company, which included Rossignol, Dynastar, Look, and Lange brands. It 聽three years later for $147 million, less than half of what it paid.
That failed deal eventually cost the company nearly $1.3 billion and 鈥渓eft us with a huge amount of debt,鈥 according to a letter from Quiksilver CEO Pierre Agnes and President Greg Healy to U.S. employees explaining the bankruptcy.
The two also wrote the problems were compounded by 鈥減oor management decisions that yielded a failed strategy and poor operational execution.鈥澛
In the wake of the Rossignol debacle, the company in 2013 brought in former Disney and Nike executive Andy Mooney to serve as CEO. But under his tenure Quiksilver alienated key retailers, who were put off by strategies like direct sales to customers that would bypass surf and skate shops, says Kummetz. They also cut back on spending on competitions and athlete sponsorships, he says. Kelly Slater, a surfing legend and longtime Quiksilver mascot, left in 2014 to start his own line of clothing. Other companies were quick to pounce on the dissatisfaction.
鈥淭hey did not pull punches in going to retailers and saying, 鈥楾hese guys are not 鈥渃ore鈥澛燼nymore. We're 鈥渃ore,鈥 鈥 鈥澛燢ummetz says.
Mooney was replaced earlier this year.
It鈥檚 not clear how the bankruptcy will spill over into the sport. The company is the title sponsor of several stops on the World Surf League鈥檚 Championship Tour, and lists 24 men and 9聽women sponsored by Quiksilver and Roxy.聽
Surf League spokesman Dave Prodan declined to discuss any detailed conversations with Quiksilver about future sponsorship, but says 鈥渁ll the events that have support at the moment we've been assured have support moving ahead.” A source close to the company says Quiksilver plans to continue sponsoring athletes and events, but it鈥檚 not clear at what level.
Despite the grim news, the two company leaders struck an upbeat note about the company鈥檚 future in their letter to employees.聽
鈥淥ur reorganization will provide the opportunity for a fresh start, and while there is much work to be done, we are confident Quiksilver is moving in the right direction and will emerge a stronger business, better positioned to grow and prosper into the future,鈥 they wrote.聽