At some point each fall, certain shoppers start looking at waterproof breathable outerwear and figuring out which permutation of the 40-something-year-old technology will get them through winter.
While some remarkable new membranes have come along since in 1969, most executions have been variations on a theme: A membrane between two layers of fabric, or a membrane between a layer of fabric and a polyurethane coating. That鈥檚 where you get terminology like 鈥渢hree-layer鈥 or 鈥2.5 layer.鈥
thinks it can change that. The Colorado startup鈥檚 new Core Construction technology, which it鈥檚 debuting this month, weaves fibers directly into a functional membrane. The result is a fabric platform that allows for additional loft or different surface textures by simply weaving in more fibers鈥攏o glue or layering required. You get a single-layer fabric with, say, the functionality of a hard shell and the look and feel of your favorite hoodie.
鈥淲e start with a functional membrane鈥攚indproof, waterproof, UV protecting, whatever鈥攖hen we build a knit around that core,鈥 says Voormi marketing director Timm Smith. 鈥淭he knit is fully in, out, and around that core. Then we can process that in various ways to either fully seal it and shut it down or leave holes.鈥

Smith describes Core Construction as a 鈥渞eset button鈥 for the industry. And while marketing directors are paid to hype, if Core Construction delivers as promised, it could indeed change your winter wardrobe in a big way.
While Voormi has worked primarily with merino wool since its 2011 founding and will be using wool in the Core Construction rollout, the tech isn鈥檛 about a specific fiber. Rather, it鈥檚 a process that can apply across the garment industry.
鈥淵ou鈥檝e got all the different kinds of fibers and yarns out there,鈥 Smith says. 鈥淲ool, cotton, nylon, aramid, fiberglass, whatever. And there are all sorts of functional cores that we can build with鈥攊nsulative batting, windproof barriers, protective barriers, textiles that have stretch and recovery, etc. So now you鈥檝e got all the different combinations. On top of that, I can make holes or not make holes to deliver different levels of protection. You can start to see virtually infinite combinations.鈥
Imagine a windproof membrane co-constructed with wool yarn to create a light, single-layer pullover鈥攜our favorite merino baselayer but with windproof core. That鈥檚 something like Voormi鈥檚 new Access Hydro, one of three garments in the Core Construction rollout. The other two are the Drift Hydro (think: soft shell) and the AN/FO 3.0 (think: -meets-).

That last one is a variation on the company鈥檚 surface-hardened AN/FO wool jacket, which Voormi creates by interlocking what Smith calls a 鈥渞azor-thin鈥 layer of wicking fibers on the inside of a wool fabric. An additional weave of nylon on the outside delivers the surface toughness full-blown outerwear requires. The result isn鈥檛 a wool-nylon blend in the way you think of, say, an 80-20 blend being consistent throughout. It鈥檚 a single fabric incorporating different yarns in different places.
鈥淭his is a move to a much more streamlined construction,鈥 Smith says. 鈥淟ook at how much sleeker things have gotten with membrane construction since the 鈥70s, with things like lamination. And what 础谤肠鈥檛别谤测虫 has been able to do in terms of streamlining all of that has been remarkable. But we thought, 鈥榃hy are we buying all these components and gluing them together? Why don鈥檛 we create one composite that does it all?鈥欌
While this is a brand-new technology from a very new operation, Voormi has an impressive pedigree in both innovation and apparel. The company was founded in 2011 by former Microsoft managing director Dan English, who left the tech behemoth in 2005 to enter the specialty apparel industry, as an executive with the hunting brand Mossy Oak. After spurring a tech-driven overhaul of that brand鈥檚 product-development process, in 2010 he lured 43-year veteran and product guru Doug Lumb out of retirement to launch Voormi.
The company didn鈥檛 start selling to consumers until late 2013鈥攁nd then only in very limited quantities鈥攂ut it鈥檚 been testing products in the field since its founding. English鈥檚 son, Dustin, managing director at Voormi, is also a guide with the . He鈥檚 spent four years putting Voormi apparel to the test on expeditions to Denali and Antarctica, providing feedback that the company can quickly incorporate into new prototypes.
Voormi does everything domestically, from sourcing wool to creating fabrics and finished products. Smith credits that with giving the company a 鈥渟mall batch, mircrobrew鈥 flexibility in terms of both prototyping and full production. Apparel brands鈥攅specially those made in Asia, as most are鈥攇enerally need several months to fill retailer orders. (That鈥檚 why all your favorite winter brands are showcasing their 2015/16 lines at industry tradeshows this month.) Voormi says it can get that lead-time down to just a few weeks.
While Voormi plans to continue creating finished consumer products, the company also has designs on being a fabric supplier to other companies. If Core Construction takes off, you could be seeing it on hangtags like Gore or Polartec.
鈥淲hat we鈥檙e going to be presenting is only the tip of the iceberg,鈥 Smith says.