Leather boots are like a marriage: beautiful, expensive, but built to last—unless you ignore them, in which case they’ll fall apart well before their time. But if nurtured, they’ll last until death do you part.
It’s all aboutÌýproper care. Some brands offer comprehensive kits, with most of the equipment you needÌýfor the long haul, like these from Ìý($38)Ìý²¹²Ô»åÌý ($40), but you can piece together a solid one of your own. The good news is that taking care of your boots is relatively inexpensive. Here’s the best way to clean leather boots, and how to make them last as long as humanly possible.
The Best Way to Clean Leather Boots
You’ll need several cotton cloths for the entire process. IÌýlike to use an old cotton T-shirt cut up into several pieces.ÌýUse a different cloth for every step.
First, remove the laces and take a dusting brush, like ($12), which has stiff pig-hair bristles, and removeÌýexcess dirt on the leather. Then take a damp cloth and wipe down the uppers. Wipe the outer rims of the soles and the rubber toe guards, too.
While the shoeÌýis still a little damp, use a leather cleaner to remove any lingering dirt. I like ($18), which is a concentrate that you dilute with water.
With a damp cloth, work the cleaner into the leather, rubbing it briskly until you start to see a lather, and thenÌýwork your way around the boot. Pay special attention to the tongue and crevices circlingÌýthe lace grommets, where dirt tends to gather. After you’ve cleaned the entire boot, take a new wet cloth and wipe away the cleaner. If you’ve never cleaned your boots, you’ll be amazed at how good they look after this process.
How to Care for Your Leather Boots
Conditioning
Wait until your boots are dry from the cleaning process (I just let them sit for a day). Most conditioners will add a sheen to the shoe, andÌýif you do this regularly, you’ll extend the life of your boots and won’t need to re-waterproof them as often. You also don’t need to wait until your boots are old to condition them. Brand-new boots have been sitting in a box drying outÌýfor months, if not longer, and adding a layer of conditioner straight out of the gate will help rejuvenate them.
Each company’s conditioner is slightly different, but the process is the same. ($8) is a paste that’s easy to apply and helps revive the look and feel of the leather. Apply a small amount to a clean cloth, and rub it over the entire shoe. A little bit goes a long way. Don’t worry about working it hard into the leather, which willÌýabsorb the conditioner over time; just make sure you’re coating it evenly and not missing any spots. After you’ve covered theÌýboot, let it sit for a few hoursÌýor overnight. Then take a new cloth and wipe away anyÌýexcess. Because the leather is absorbing the conditioner, your shoesÌýmight look a little darker than when you started. Don’t freak out—this is natural and will fade over time.
Waterproofing
A conditioner helps extend the leather’s waterproofing, but if you’re tough on your hikers, or notice that water is no longer beading up on the surface, it’s time to reapply some waterproofing agent. You have a few options: a silicone spray, an old-school beeswax, or a liquid-based wax.
Silicone spray is the easiest to apply, butÌýin my experience, it won’t last as long. Beeswax not only waterproofs, itÌýconditions and protects the leather as well. I opt for a beeswax treatment on full-grain leather for this reason, but if your boots have a Gore-Tex liner, you should avoid beeswax because it can impair the material’s breathability—that’s why owners of full-grain leather boots with Gore-Tex should opt for a liquid-based wax. It’s not as durable as beeswax, but it’s easier to apply and absorbs faster.
($7) is a trusted beeswax waterproofing agent that will last an entire season. Put a small amount on a cloth, and work the wax into the leather in small circles. It works best if the leather is warm. I like to put my boots under a heat lamp (just for a little while—you don’t want them hot) or let them sit next toÌýa sunny window. After applying a thin layer of the wax to the boot,Ìýlet it absorb. Repeat thisÌýprocess two or three times, until the leather stops absorbing wax. Then take a clean rag and remove any excess.
For a water-based wax, check out Ìý($9). Start with clean, damp leather, and apply the wax through the built-in sponge applicator. You should only have to do this once. It will absorb within a few minutes, and you can wipe away any lingering residueÌýwith a cloth.
Buffing
Don’t overlook this step, as it can give your newly conditioned and waxed boots the sheen they deserve. Take a horsehair brush, like from Danner ($10), and strike the leather softly in quick glancingÌýmovements, working your way around the leather until they start to shine.