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Mountain Hardwear鈥檚 multiseason Ghost Whisperer jacket.
Mountain Hardwear鈥檚 multiseason Ghost Whisperer jacket. (Hannah McCaughey)

Global Warming Is Radically Changing Winter Jacket Design

How the invisible hand of climate change will shake up your coat rack

Published: 
Mountain Hardwear鈥檚 multiseason Ghost Whisperer jacket.
(Photo: Hannah McCaughey)

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Last year, a member of Stephen聽Sullivan鈥檚 design team at Jackson,聽Wyoming, outdoor-apparel brand Stio approached him about producing a heavy winter jacket. Sullivan stopped her. 鈥淚 said, 鈥業t doesn鈥檛 get that cold anymore. And when it does, it doesn鈥檛 stay cold very long,鈥欌 says Sullivan. 鈥溾榃e need to concen颅trate on midweight jackets.鈥欌

What Sullivan meant is that global warming has forced Stio to adjust its business strategy. To that end, the company has gone from producing lots of gear designed to be used in extremely cold situations to garments built for milder conditions, a move that reflects consumer demand for multiseason apparel. And companies stand to lose if they don鈥檛 adapt.

As the Oregonian reported last December, Columbia鈥檚 share price took a hit in 2015, dropping a third of its value in the fourth quarter. 鈥淲e do not believe recent stock price declines are a function of company missteps 鈥 but are instead 颅related to uncontrollable weather factors, [like] the warmest December in 55-plus years,鈥 wrote Japanese investment bank Nomura about Columbia, the North Face, and Ugg. 鈥淲hile all three have grown their product offerings in less 颅weather sensitive areas, we believe the cold-weather stigma still surrounds [them].鈥

In recent years, major 颅players such as Eddie Bauer and Mountain Hardwear have produced more season-straddling clothing. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e making versatile products that can be used in winter and also into the shoulder seasons,鈥 says Matt Powell, vice president of industry analysis for the NPD Group, which examines trends in the outdoor-recreation market.

What Sullivan meant is that global warming has forced聽Stio聽to adjust its business strategy.

The shift is evident in sales. Two years ago, when 颅heavily 颅insulated jackets and pants dominated Moun颅tain Hard颅wear鈥檚 fall line, the company earned 60 percent of its profits from winter outerwear. For the 2015鈥16 season, the number dwindled to roughly 25 percent. Meanwhile sales of mid- and lightweight jackets have grown to account for approximately half its revenue. According to Robert Fry, global director of product merchandising and design, Mountain Hardwear now moves 鈥渢ens of thousands鈥 of units per year of its jacket鈥攁 seven-ounce, 800-fill puffy designed for multiseason use. (It鈥檚 the company鈥檚 bestseller.) Similarly, two of Eddie 颅Bauer鈥檚 most popular jackets, the and, are both lighter-weight options.

Textiles manufacturers are adjusting, too. Polartec and PrimaLoft have developed thinner 鈥渁ctive insulation,鈥 a replacement for down and bulkier synthetic fill that鈥檚 also breathable. Polartec鈥檚 version, Alpha, was quickly licensed by Eddie Bauer, Outdoor Research, and Strafe Outer颅wear. PrimaLoft鈥檚, called Gold Insulation Active, is used by L.L.Bean, Marmot, Merrell, and Under Armour. 鈥淔or the past two years I鈥檝e started seasonal meetings by saying, 鈥楬ey guys, eight of the past ten years have been the warmest on record,鈥 鈥 says Fry. 鈥淲e need to keep up with people鈥檚 expectations for what they need to do outside.鈥

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