Nineteen years ago, I bought my first pair of climbing shoes鈥攖he . Ten years and a bunch of different climbing-shoe models聽later, I bought another pair of Moccasyms. Today聽you can still buy them. And for certain kinds of climbing (granite friction slabs聽and splitter cracks),聽they鈥檙e聽still one of the best shoes that exist.
You might read that and think,聽Some things never change. But when it comes to climbing shoes, you couldn鈥檛 be more wrong. Back when I bought that first pair of Moccasyms, there weren鈥檛 many brands to choose from.聽As of 2019, there were at least (and I can think of a few more now). While larger companies (Five Ten, La Sportiva, Scarpa) still dominate much of the market share in the industry, it鈥檚 great to see some interesting聽boutique companies popping up with quality offerings. Here are聽a handful of brands making a splash.
Acopa

was founded in Guadalajara by Mexican climbers Ernesto Vazquez and Dario Piana in 1997聽and brought to the States by climbing legend聽 and Steve Allen Karafa Jr. in 2003. In 2006, Acopa was well on its聽way to being one of the top shoe companies in the U.S. But en route to the airport from the Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City, Bachar lost control of the SUV he was driving, and Karafa died in the accident. Acopa lost one of its聽stars, , a year later, and Bachar died in a free-soloing accident in 2009. By 2010, Acopa had closed up shop. But ten years later, Piana and new business partner Sergio Langarica have revived Acopa, and the beloved brand聽and its聽tried-and-true shoes are back in business. One of the聽headlining models is聽 ($199, named after聽Bachar), a shoe which climbs and looks very similar to La Sportiva鈥檚 TC Pro. But before you go crying copycat, consider this: the original JB actually predates the TC Pro.
UnParallel
鈥渨as started in 2017 by Sang Lee, who handled development and production for Five Ten climbing until Adidas closed the Redlands outlet鈥 in California, according to the website . A quick glance at its聽lineup reveals that almost all of the company鈥檚聽designs appear to be modeled after Five Ten shoes. (Adidas owns Five Ten.)聽I聽听($140), and frankly, I loved it. It edged precisely, while also doing well in tough crack sizes, in a comfortable package that can be worn all day long. Additionally, UnParallel does resoles聽and, based on my experience, a good job of it. I鈥檝e tried a dozen or so shoe resolers over the years, and UP is in聽my top two or three.
Butora
I learned about during a brief stint managing the retail shop of a climbing gym in Colorado in 2016. I was impressed by some of the South Korean company鈥檚 offerings鈥攑articularly the Acro, which I wore one day to climb聽in during a shoe demo鈥攂ut honestly, I didn鈥檛 expect it聽to make much of a dent in the American market, because other Asian climbing-shoe brands have struggled to succeed it here. Boy, was I wrong. Today聽Butora not only has a devoted cadre of followers, but聽. This knowledge has led to some cool features, such as high- and low-volume options in all of its offerings instead of the typical male and female choices. Butora is taking a more gender-neutral path: all of its聽models are fairly unisex, and there鈥檚 no gender-based assumptions about foot volume. Price points are聽pretty low compared to other shoe companies. The Acro ($154)聽is hard to beat,聽and the Altura ($155), its聽high-top,聽is like $40 cheaper than other competitive high-top models from Acopa and La Sportiva. If Butora聽keeps it up, it聽may unseat some of the industry giants in the coming years.
Tulson Tolf
When I first saw this company鈥檚 glittery (yes, that鈥檚 right) , the California ($125), I thought it was a joke. Turns out,聽Tulson Tolf is actually quite serious, as evidenced by some of the names on its聽sponsored squad: Kilian Jornet, Karl Egloff, and Denis Urubko are all TT athletes, and although those guys are definitely more mountaineers or mountain runners than rock climbers, Rock and Ice magazine thought well enough of TT to give the聽sparkly shoes a . I haven鈥檛 tried them or seen anyone else wearing them, though鈥攁nd it seems like they would be hard to miss.
kN Climbing聽
First: this brand鈥檚聽shoes cost $350. Second: each pair is custom-made using a 3D scan of your foot. As such, is about as niche as it gets, which is why I鈥檓 including them here. Back in the day, nobody anticipated the rise of print-on-demand books聽or the massive explosion of self-publishing facilitated by Amazon and other companies. Could a similar model be the future of rock-climbing shoes? That depends on whether kN Climbing鈥檚 unique methodology will actually yield a significantly more effective鈥攐r more comfortable鈥攃limbing shoe. It was聽a three-week process to get the right fit dialed, have the shoes made, and then shipped, but it was totally worth it:聽my very first time wearing them, I sent a 5.12a ar锚te聽that a friend and I had recently bolted. They definitely nail the comfort-performance ratio as well (if not better) than most shoes I鈥檝e聽ever worn. In the聽few months since I started wearing them, they鈥檝e become my go-to shoe for almost everything I climb (bouldering, sport, and聽trad鈥攖he only exception being very precise edging routes, since the model I got lacks a midsole and, as such, isn鈥檛 great for edging). I can鈥檛 say how well they鈥檒l stand the test of time, but my initial impression is that kN Climbing is onto a very, very good thing that will only get better.