It only took nineteen years, countless advocates, dozens of letters,聽a bankruptcy and change of ownership,聽plus聽one particularly tenacious public official, but women鈥攆or the first time ever鈥攈ave been invited to compete at one of the world鈥檚 most famous big-wave breaks: Mavericks. After intense lobbying, political maneuvering, and negative press, the historically all-male contest has invited six female pros to compete in a single women鈥檚 heat, which will take place sometime between now and the middle of February, conditions permitting.聽
鈥淭his is a huge step forward,鈥 says Bianca Valenti, a San Francisco-based big-wave surfer slated to compete in this year's event. 鈥淔inally, we鈥檝e got a foot in the door. But we have a long way to go.鈥
The ferocious wave, off the coast of Half Moon Bay in northern California, has long been an icon of big-wave surfing. It has also become a focal point in the growing fight for gender equality in a sport with a long and colorful history of machismo. 鈥淭here鈥檚 nothing more beautiful than a well-shaped girl riding a six-foot wave with the wind blowing through her hair,鈥 wrote . 鈥淏ut one thing I can鈥檛 stand is girls riding (or attempting to ride) big waves.鈥
Flash-forward 45 years. While that attitude has eroded, it鈥檚 far from gone.
鈥淪urfing is 20 years behind other sports,鈥 Valenti says on a drive home from surfing Mavericks. 鈥淥ne day a guy told me, 鈥楾his is a man鈥檚 playground. I don鈥檛 want to see you out here, unless I鈥檓 going out on a date with you, 鈥榗ause you鈥檙e kinda cute.鈥欌
Big-wave contests have run at Mavericks since 1999, when the made fliers promoting the event and the 鈥淢en Who Ride Mountains.鈥 That was the same year that became the first woman to surf the monstrous wave, five years after bodyboarder Sarah Lucas busted the gender barrier. But competition was strictly open to dudes, who were the only ones getting invites. Contest founder Jeff Clark, a big-wave pioneer who surfed Mavericks alone for 15 years before anyone would join him, didn鈥檛 think women were good enough. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not a gender thing. It鈥檚 a performance thing,鈥 Clark told CBS鈥攊n 2016. 鈥淲omen just aren鈥檛 there yet.鈥澛燼 year after Keala Kennelly won Barrel of the Year at the WSL Big Wave聽Awards, the so-called Oscars of big-wave surfing. She was chosen鈥攐ver hundreds of men鈥攊n a season with a historic number of supersized rides, barrels, and wipeouts. In her acceptance speech, Kennelly thanked “…. Because that drove me to dedicate my life to proving you wrong, and it's been so damn fun.”
As if women aren鈥檛听补濒谤别补诲测 out there with men in the lineup for any big swell. 鈥淥n any given day, we鈥檙e competing with the men,鈥 Valenti says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not like a tennis court.鈥
The simple truth is, women have been surfing big waves for decades, despite the cultural undertow of a brotherhood that really would rather they didn鈥檛. 鈥淲omen have been expected to look good on the beach and hand the boy his towel when he gets out of the water,鈥 says Matt Warshaw, author of the . 鈥淲omen were not encouraged to go out and surf big waves during the 1960s. But there were women who did.鈥
鈥淭here鈥檚 nothing more beautiful than a well-shaped girl riding a six-foot wave,鈥 wrote big-wave surfer Buzzy Trent in 1963. 鈥淏ut one thing I can鈥檛 stand is girls riding big waves.鈥
In 1959, as Joan Cleaver was still cleaning the house in a dress and pearls, Linda Benson, who would later be called the , became the first woman聽to surf Waimea.聽Around the same time, Marge Calhoun, a mother of two who didn鈥檛 pick up a surfboard until she was almost聽30, was winning the Makaha International, on the west side of Oahu, Hawaii. 鈥淚 loved a wave that was dramatic,鈥 Calhoun said. 鈥淚 wanted something that could knock me around.鈥
In the 1970s, Margo Oberg, often credited as the original female big-wave surfer, became a regular on the monstrous winter swells at Sunset Beach on Oahu鈥檚 North Shore. She raised the ante to 15-foot waves. After winning four world championships, she fell just shy of a fifth, placing second in 1982鈥攖hree months after giving birth. Then came Phyllis Dameron, one of the most fearless bodyboarders (of either gender) in the history of the sport. She paddled into waves higher than 20 feet and bounced down them like a skipping stone, often passing the men below her. 鈥淚鈥檒l go right over them, in the air if I have to,鈥 she said.聽
In the 1990s, Layne Beachley聽and聽Sarah Gerhardt became tow-in pioneers. After mastering 20-footers at a North Shore break called Phantoms, Beachley聽had a Jet Ski sling-shot her into 25-foot waves in Todos Santos, in Baja California, and 国产吃瓜黑料 Log Cabins, in Hawaii. She became the first woman to conquer the 鈥渄eath slab鈥 barrels at a freakish Sydney break, which pounds into a rocky shelf.聽
Yet during all that time, invite-only contests were closed to women. Finally, in 2010, Oregon鈥檚 Nelscott Reef Big Wave Classic became the first major event to invite聽women to compete. But even then there was a catch: it was only an exhibition,聽. Three women surfed聽in a one-hour heat, in conditions that blew out one male competitor鈥檚 eardrum and sent him staggering to shore, warning about the conditions. Keala Kennelly took home the win鈥攁nd a prize purse of…$0.聽
Finally, in 2016, the first paying women鈥檚 division was added to a big-wave contest. The Peahi Challenge, one of three stops on the , invited women to compete on the 30-foot-plus waves at the Maui break聽Jaws. It was a bona-fide division: 12 women, plus six alternates, competing in three heats鈥攖wo semi-finals and a final. Hawaii鈥檚 Paige Alms, who does construction and ding repair to supplement her pro-surfer income, landed air-drops in the howling wind and became the first women鈥檚 big-wave champion. She won . (The men鈥檚 champ bagged .)
The world of big-wave surfing appeared to be shifting, with many male pro surfers expressing support for their female counterparts. But the Mavericks door remained slammed shut. It took a politically savvy local official to pry that one open.
Jeff Clark, a big-wave pioneer, didn鈥檛 think women were good enough to surf Mavericks. “It鈥檚 not a gender thing. It鈥檚 a performance thing,” he said.
Sabrina Brennan, an elected member of the San Mateo County Harbor Commission, which also grants event permits, teamed up with several female pros, including Bianca Valenti and Keala Kennelly, to form the . She argued that public resources could not be used for discriminatory activities鈥攁 key legal point. In response to their lobbying efforts, the California Coastal Commission required Titans of Mavericks to include women competitors as a condition for renewal of the event's permit.
Here鈥檚 how Titans founder Jeff Clark responded to that news in a TV interview: 鈥淚 understand what the Coastal Commission wants is more women involved in Mavericks. We鈥檝e had women judges, we鈥檝e had women in our water patrol, and water rescue鈥︹ Actually, no. They want to see women on the board鈥攏ot the board of directors.
The contest organizer, Cartel Management, grudgingly responded by agreeing to 鈥渞each out鈥 to female pros and allow them to compete鈥攚ith the men, if they qualified. Four women made the 56-person first cut. Days later, not a single woman made the 38-surfer second cut, selected by an all-male committee. Calling B.S. on Cartel鈥檚 pseudo-meritocracy, the Committee for Equity in Women鈥檚 Surfing demanded that women compete against women, as they do in pretty much every other sport. They asked for a standard women鈥檚 division: six women, three heats.聽
To make a long story short, Cartel was then sued by sponsors and . The 2016-2017 Titans of Mavericks never happened.聽The next season, the event was picked up by the World Surf League, which invited six women to compete鈥攁gainst each other鈥攊n the 2017-2018 contest, renamed the Mavericks Challenge. This added a second women鈥檚 contest鈥攁nd a fourth event鈥攖o the Big Wave Tour. 鈥淭he timing was right,鈥 says CEO Sophie Goldschmidt, who has held executive roles with the NBA, Adidas, and several mainstream sports. She expects the WSL to add more women鈥檚 big-wave surfing events鈥攇radually. 鈥淲e鈥檙e not going to rush. We鈥檙e going to be very thoughtful about this. Over time, I expect us to add further events as the women and the sport are ready for it, from a performance and a safety standpoint.鈥
The female pros say they鈥檙e stoked to compete at Mavericks, but they wish it was a legitimate multi-heat division. It鈥檚 six women and one heat鈥攐ne golden hour on the waves. Compared to the three-heat, 24-man contest, it feels to some like a footnote. What they鈥檇 like to see is a multi-heat competition, where women have to surf against one another to make it to the finals.聽As聽it is, 鈥渋t鈥檚聽a token,鈥 Brennan says. 鈥淪ix women, one heat? That鈥檚 nowhere near equality.鈥
Given the sport鈥檚 history of machismo, that should surprise no one.聽