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Leonardo Fioravanti surfing in Sardinia, Italy.
Leonardo Fioravanti surfing in Sardinia, Italy. (Photo: Samo Vidic/Red Bull Content Pool)

Leo Fioravanti Paddles Back Out

A year ago, the Italian pro surfer's gnarly wipeout at Pipeline broke a vertebrae and nearly paralyzed him. He thought he'd never surf again.

Published: 
Leonardo Fioravanti surfing in Sardinia, Italy.
(Photo: Samo Vidic/Red Bull Content Pool)

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One afternoon in early December, Leonardo Fioravanti stands on the back deck of the Quiksilver House on Oahu and surveys the Banzai Pipeline鈥攖he most photographed and arguably most dangerous wave in the world. He bounces up and down like a boxer ready to enter the ring. 鈥淚t鈥檚 pumping!鈥 he yells into his cellphone. Kanoa Igarashi, another Quiksilver sponsored surfer, hastily waxes his board nearby.

鈥淎re you wearing a [wetsuit] top?鈥 Igarashi asks?

鈥淣o,鈥 Fioravanti says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 so hot, and if you get a big [camera] shot it looks way better.鈥

鈥淵eah,鈥 Igarashi replies. 鈥淵ou also get way more wrecked if you hit the reef without one.鈥

Fioravanti, 18, doesn鈥檛 need the reminder. The four silver-dollar-sized听scars on his lower back are ample proof of the consequences of听surfing over Pipeline鈥檚 jagged, lava rock reef. On January 31, 2015, during his third round heat at the , Fioravanti wiped out then got compressed against the reef. His body went numb. Everything went black. He got the wind knocked out of him.

鈥淚 have been injured before, but this was different,鈥 Fioravanti says. 鈥淚 have never experienced that much pain.鈥

Fioravanti managed to undo his leash and swim to the surface. He raised his hand for the water patrol. Within two minutes he was stabilized on a stretcher and carried off the beach. Over 7,500 miles and two oceans away in Hossegor, France, Fioravanti鈥檚 mother, Serena Martini, watched her son鈥檚 injury unfold on the live webcast. It was a little after midnight. She had just flown to France from Hawaii with Stephen Bell, Fioravanti鈥檚 stepfather and the global team manager for Quiksilver. Bell received a call. It was Kelly Slater, his good friend. Slater provided updates and then gave the phone to Fioravanti.

鈥淚鈥檓 OK,鈥 Martini remembers her son saying. She knew he wasn鈥檛. She and Bell didn鈥檛 unpack their bags. They flew back to Hawaii that morning.

At Queens Hospital in Honolulu doctors diagnosed Fioravanti with a fractured L1听vertebra. They gave him a back brace and told him he wouldn鈥檛 need surgery. But eight days later when Fioravanti returned to France and met with a back specialist in Bordeaux, he found out the vertebra was not only fractured, but had tilted and would in fact require surgery. When Fioravanti recalls the news that if his vertebra had shifted an inch or two more he would have been paralyzed, his typically ebullient tone becomes subdued.

鈥淚 thought I might never surf again,鈥 he says.

The injury was just the latest in a string of obstacles on Fioravanti鈥檚 journey to reach his dream: winning the (WSL) world title. There are 486 surfers who have registered at least one point on the WSL Qualifying Series (QS) in 2016. Fioravanti is the only Italian on the list. Born in Rome, he grew up in the town of Cerveteri and learned to surf when he was four with the help of older his brother, Matteo. Italy is hardly a surfer鈥檚 paradise. Summer months are plagued by long flat spells, and even during the fall and winter waves are fleeting in the Mediterranean.

鈥淚t is like lightning in a bottle,鈥 says Jason Baffa, who spent 108 days in Italy in 2012 filming for , which explores the country鈥檚 surfing culture and features Fioravanti. 鈥淵ou have to be in the right place at the right time and even then there are only waves for an hour or two.鈥

For Fioravanti, the meager conditions were not a deterrent, but rather served as motivation. When there were waves, his mother wrote him excuses to get out of school, and he鈥檇 surf until it was too dark to see. In the summer, he鈥檇 wait until around 6 p.m. when a ferry鈥檚 wake would create two to three waves.

鈥淭hat was the highlight of my day,鈥 Fioravanti says.

Still, he and his family realized that for him to get noticed, they would have to venture outside of Italy. The Fioravantis started spending summers in Hossegor (where Leo now lives with Martini and Bell) and entered contests all over Europe while Leo was still in grade school. After a junior contest in Portugal, Quiksilver offered him a sponsorship. He was nine. Soon, he was traveling to Hawaii, Australia, and Indonesia with big name riders like Slater, Jeremy Flores, and Dane Reynolds. When Fioravanti told other surfers he was from Italy, he always received the same response: 鈥淎re you sure there are waves there?鈥 Although Fioravanti speaks five languages, he let his surfing answer those doubts. He was the European Junior Champion in 2013. The next year, his first on the QS, he finished 28th and was one result away from qualifying for the world tour. He appeared poised to reach his goal in 2015.

Then the injury happened.

After Fioravanti鈥檚 surgery on February 14th that required two titanium rods and four screws, Martini wanted to hug her son. She couldn鈥檛. She was afraid she would hurt him. 鈥淗e could move a little bit,鈥 Martini says. 鈥淏ut he needed assistance with almost everything.鈥 Helping Fioravanti into his brace was a two-person job.

In March, Fioravanti started his recovery at the (CERS), one of the best rehabilitation centers for athletes in Europe. He trained seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. He got his brace off after six weeks, and had some added motivation. He could see the peeling waves at Capbreton outside the large glass windows of the gym.

鈥淲hen you are that age you think you are indestructible,鈥 Christiaan Bradley, Fioravanti鈥檚 shaper, says. 鈥淏ut after it was all taken away from him, he realized how much he needed surfing in his life. He went at it with all his effort.鈥

Bradley shaped Fioravanti a retro-style 6鈥0鈥 single fin board, painted red, white, and green like the Italian flag, to help ease the transition back into the ocean. Fioravanti rode the board his first surf back, three and a half months after the injury. He still had the rods and screws in his back. On his first wave, Fioravanti and screamed鈥ith joy. 鈥淚 felt like I had won something,鈥 he says. Five months later, after a second surgery in June to remove the hardware, after two-a-day surf sessions and yoga classes to regain his form and flexibility, he did win. He took first place in the ISA World Games U-18 Championship at Oceanside Pier in California.听

But Hawaii and the Pipeline still loomed. Fioravanti鈥檚 first event this year? The Voclom Pipe Pro. Martini tried to dissuade her son from entering. 鈥淗e listened but said he had to go [to Hawaii],鈥 she says. 鈥淗e said this is my life.鈥

鈥淭he North Shore is where you prove yourself in front of everyone,鈥 Fioravanti says. 鈥淚t is the place where you have to step up and show you can hang with the big boys.鈥

Although he put on a tough demeanor for his friends and family, Fioravanti confided that he was 鈥渓ittle scared鈥 and 鈥渘ot very confident鈥 for his first surf back at Pipeline in November. Despite catching some of the standout waves of the winter, those worries persisted. The night before the Pipeline Pro, he could hear the waves pounding from his bunk bed in the Quiksilver house. Fioravanti tried to block out the recurring dream he鈥檚 had since the injury. He鈥檚 underwater and everything is black. He can鈥檛 move. He hits the reef and it shatters into a million pieces.

During his first heat, he displayed no fear. He caught the two best waves and won by 9.33 points.

鈥淟eo always charges,鈥 says Roberto D鈥橝mico, Fioravanti鈥檚 friend and one of only the handful of other Italian pro surfers. 鈥淗e is a gladiator.鈥

But during his third round heat, Fioravanti waited 12 minutes before he took off on a wave. It closed out. He couldn鈥檛 escape and slammed straightforward.

鈥淗oly shit,”听Bradley thought watching the webcast. 鈥淗e鈥檚 done it again.鈥

鈥淚t felt like d茅j脿 vu,鈥 Fioravanti says. But this time, he didn鈥檛 hit the reef. This time his 6鈥10鈥 board didn鈥檛 break. This time he swam to the surface and when water patrol jet ski approached, he didn鈥檛 wave his hand. Instead, he shook his head and said he was 鈥渁ll right.鈥

He paddled back out.听听

Lead Photo: Samo Vidic/Red Bull Content Pool

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