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In the 50 plus days it took Larsen, a polar explorer, and Waters, a mountaineer, to reach the geographic pole, they saw firsthand what climate change is doing to the arctic.
In the 50 plus days it took Larsen, a polar explorer, and Waters, a mountaineer, to reach the geographic pole, they saw firsthand what climate change is doing to the arctic. (Photo: Courtesy of Eric Larsen)

Will This Man Be the Last to Trek to the North Pole?

On his recent trip to the top of the world, polar explorer Eric Larsen didn鈥檛 so much hike as fight, slog, and swim. He鈥檚 now convinced that his will be one of the last on-foot expeditions to the North Pole.

Published: 
In the 50 plus days it took Larsen, a polar explorer, and Waters, a mountaineer, to reach the geographic pole, they saw firsthand what climate change is doing to the arctic.
(Photo: Courtesy of Eric Larsen)

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In March,听2014, Eric Larsen and Ryan Waters set out to walk 500 miles across fields of snow and through pools of frigid Arctic water鈥攕ometimes in white-out conditions鈥攖o the North Pole. With 600 pounds of supplies in their sleds, Larsen and Waters aimed to break the world record for the fastest unsupported huff to the top of the world.听

They didn鈥檛 break the record, but in the 50-plus days it took Larsen, an听explorer who has been to the pole three times, and Waters, a mountaineer, to reach the geographic pole, they saw firsthand what climate change is doing to the Arctic.Larsen听expects it will also be the last time anyone makes it to the top of the world without assistance. The window, he says, is closing.听So he decided to write a book about his experience. 听is a surprisingly honest and open account of what it takes to march听across one of the most solitary places on the planet. The book came out Sunday.听听

国产吃瓜黑料 caught up with Larsen for the inside scoop on what鈥檚 so tough about a polar expedition, his near-death experiences, and why trekking across an ice sheet is like walking on a treadmill.

OUTSIDE: You went for the 鈥渨arts-and-all鈥 approach with this book.听
LARSEN: I wanted to tell the story in a way that鈥檚 not glossed over. I鈥檓 trying to give insights into what it鈥檚 really like, versus how I want to be portrayed. I think everybody wants to look a little stronger, tougher, more epic. But that鈥檚 never really been my thing.听

You make exploring the Arctic sound hard.
My trips are kind of the red headed step-child of adventuring: they don鈥檛 have the glamour; there鈥檚 no Olympic sport associated with it. They鈥檙e arbitrary, in one sense. They鈥檙e long, boring sufferfests with little change of scenery. I used to have a little chip on my shoulder about it鈥擨 knew they were interesting trips, but it was hard to get people interested.

(Courtesy of Eric Larsen)

You鈥檝e been on frigid expeditions all over the planet鈥擡verest, the South Pole, the North Pole twice before. Why write a book about this trip?
My line is: it鈥檚 the most difficult expedition on Earth to a place that few people understand and it may be the last in history. I wanted to do the trip in the hardest way鈥攗nsupported and unaided鈥攁nd I wanted to tell the story in a way that would get people to understand the Arctic.

I know that climate change is melting sea ice in the Arctic, but what鈥檚 to stop someone else from trekking to the North Pole? How have things changed?听
In 2006, on my first expedition there, we鈥檇 get out on an ice pan and we could ski for two hours before we hit a crack or something. And 2014, we got maybe half an hour. The ice is thinner and it breaks up easier. The surface is just rougher. It鈥檚 fractured and drifting and you鈥檙e not skiing across a flat鈥攜ou鈥檙e weaving, your progress is slower.听

Physically it鈥檚 still possible, but the problem is that听Kenn Borek, the only flight company [to run commercial flights to the pole], ceased flying operations. There aren鈥檛 as many multi-year ice pans that they can physically land the plane on. Plus, the length of the season has shortened dramatically. Our deadline was May 4 this time鈥攊t used to be June.听

There鈥檚 another team trying this spring. I think physically,听it could happen. But the success rate for North Pole expeditions is less than those on K2鈥20 percent or so. There have been 30 attempts in the last 15 years and maybe nine of those have been successful.听

Walk me through a day on the ice floes.听
The thing about the Arctic Ocean is it鈥檚 never boring. It鈥檚 hard to describe this to people because you鈥檙e traveling on a surface that鈥檚 constantly changing. You could have two people start within a couple days of each other and they鈥檙e going to experience a completely different surface. It鈥檚 these massive sheets of ice, five听feet thick, that are cracking apart, colliding together, moving. It鈥檚 just this constantly shifting surface that鈥檚 made up of a million pieces of ice and hopefully you get some flat ones. It鈥檚 like we were pulling our sleds through sand. Our legs were filled with lactic acid.

Also, it鈥檚 all pushing you south.听

The thing about the Arctic Ocean is it鈥檚 never boring. It鈥檚 hard to describe this to people,听because you鈥檙e traveling on a surface that鈥檚 constantly changing.

That鈥檚 crazy. How do you deal with that?听
It鈥檚 like you鈥檙e on a treadmill. Our last day we went three and half miles in over eight hours. We would reach a crack in the ice, swim across it, and we鈥檇 get to other side and we鈥檇 be farther south than we were before.听The whole thing is moving south that fast. We watched our GPS distance from the Pole just tick up. It was nuts.听

You swam across cracks in the ice?听
Yeah, we鈥檝e got dry suits鈥攊ts fairly protective, you鈥檙e fairly buoyant.

That sounds terrible.
It isn鈥檛 terrible because we鈥檇 practiced it enough. But you get in some situations. You鈥檙e already tired, you know? There was this one time where I was unable to get out of the water on the other side and it was very scary to me. I was drained for the next couple days. Crossing each one of those takes half an hour to an hour. And your margins of safety鈥攚hich are already very thin鈥攇o down even further being in that water. It鈥檚 easy to have water go down where your face is. Your body core temperature drops.听

Recovering from each of those and dealing with that kind of greater physical threat鈥攁s well as the overall idea that the progress is being slowed and the ice is breaking up. It鈥檚 a perfect storm of crap. It鈥檚 never easy. There鈥檚 was never a time like, 鈥淲e鈥檙e just gonna swim across.鈥 You鈥檝e done it 50 times, but the 51st time is still a lot of stress. You鈥檙e still on edge. You do it, but it鈥檚 because you have to.听

(Courtesy of Eric Larsen)

Was this harder than everywhere else you鈥檝e been? Even harder than Everest?听
The Himalayas are an intense environment, but overall it鈥檚 relatively dry. Cold temperatures with humidity, like in the Arctic, destroy听everything. Plus, the physical aspects of this trip鈥攚hen you make a mile of progress after eight to ten hours of the hardest thing you鈥檝e ever done鈥攚ere brutal.听

That鈥檚 a hard thing to physically deal with, but the mental aspect of managing all these unknowns and uncertainties and your fear, that becomes a bigger priority than your physical condition. You can deal with physical discomfort or pain, more or less, but this mental thing鈥攊t became a physical weight on us all the time. Every decision has a direct impact on our ability to live and survive.

And the South Pole?听
Antarctica, without trying to be too stupid, is the polar opposite. It鈥檚 true. Antarctica is a continent. All the snow and ice on Antarctica is on land. You can stand on the ice in the Arctic Ocean and see it move.听

Antarctica is also a desert, so it鈥檚 very dry. And you鈥檙e there in summer, you get in a tent at night and it鈥檚, like, comfortable. I always say that鈥檚 Antarctica鈥檚 dirty little secret. There鈥檚 times when the sun鈥檚 out and you鈥檙e sleeping on top of your sleeping bag. Of course, it gets cold and windy and it's intense in its own right, but it鈥檚 very terra cognita. That route has been done. For me, even going up Everest, I knew that so many other people had been up there, and just thinking that I鈥檓 on this route people know, that provided me with a lot of strength. It didn鈥檛 make me as nervous. It鈥檚 the same in Antarctica.听

Ryan, my partner up听there, is a hardcore dude. He did the longest unsupported crossing of Antarctica in history. On our North Pole trek, he was like, “I feel like I鈥檓 in kindergarten out here.”听It鈥檚 such an intense environment.听

You said you felt a pang of sadness when the plane landed to extract you鈥攖hat you鈥檇 miss the isolation. How hard is it to go back to the normal world after two months living like this?
It鈥檚 a really unique place. Going through those intense moments and coming out on the positive side, it makes you feel really good and strong. Being able to be somewhat comfortable in one of the harshest environments on the planet, that鈥檚 pretty empowering.

Afterwards, I said there鈥檚 no way I鈥檓 going back to that place. It鈥檚 too crazy. At a certain point, you鈥檙e like, what am I getting out of this? This is shit. My wife, Maria, she鈥檚 stressed because she has to be on solo-mom duty. But it doesn鈥檛 take too long before it seeps back. It鈥檚 hard to describe that pull.

(Courtesy of Eric Larsen )

One last thing. You say in the book that you hate being cold. That seems ridiculous.
I don鈥檛 like being cold. I think I鈥檓 like a lot of people. I feel bad for people in New York when they have to go outside in the winter. Cold is a painful thing. It hurts. I like being warm in the cold. I think that鈥檚 the challenge.听

Lead Photo: Courtesy of Eric Larsen

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