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The Green Hills of Cunningham

If courage is grace under fire, as Hemingway once wrote, then Sandy Cunningham is as courageous as they come. From a childhood in war-torn Rhodesia to living in a tent in Kenyan lion country, the owner of a bespoke travel company sees the future of adventure travel in the globe鈥檚 uncharted corners, where travelers take control of their own narratives.

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One night not too long ago, Sandy Cunningham was home alone, asleep, when her dog started growling. Probably nothing, she thought, but in the dim light she could see that the dog鈥檚 hackles were on end. Then a motion-detector light flicked on outside. Cunningham bolted out of bed and grabbed the machete off the floor.

Cunningham and her husband, Chip, live on the outskirts of Santa Fe, New Mexico, surrounded by the dusty hills and scrublands that remind them of their years in Africa.聽There really aren鈥檛 too many places for an intruder to hide in that kind of sun-beaten country, but it was dark, and something clearly wasn鈥檛 right. She padded out toward a window for a closer look.

Cunningham has never been one to shy away from danger. Growing up in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) during the 15-year Bush War for independence in the sixties and seventies, Cunningham knew what it was like to be afraid. But she also knew how to put fear in its place, to let her curiosity flourish and journey into the unknown.

That sentiment now lies at the crux of what makes Cunningham one of the most creative adventure travel experts working with off-the-beaten track destinations around the globe today. As a co-owner of Uncharted Outposts鈥攏ow known as 国产吃瓜黑料 Go鈥擟unningham and her husband specialize in sending people to the places they鈥檝e always longed to see, in ways that are right for them. Want to climb Everest? Sure. Visit safari camps by plane or learn how to surf in Nicaragua? No problem. Cunningham can rely on her own vast library of adventures to build the right custom trip.

鈥淭he world is just such a huge oyster right now in terms of what people can do and what they can achieve,鈥 she says. 鈥淲e match people鈥檚 dreams to the experiences.鈥

Over the course of her decades-long career, Cunningham has seen adventure travel grow from a fringe product into a multi-billion-dollar industry now popular enough to risk being 鈥渃ookie cutter,鈥 she says. Companies now offer thick catalogs with nearly identical trips to Nepal, the Gal谩pagos (with a Machu Picchu extension), and Australia. 鈥淧eople are really looking for uncharted waters in the travel industry now,鈥 she observes. 鈥淭hey don鈥檛 want to 鈥榡oin鈥 a trip. They want a vested interest in crafting it. They want to be part of the design and the creative process.鈥

Cunningham was pretty invested in her own experiences from a very young age. As communists, nationalists, and thugs battled for power in British-ruled Rhodesia, Cunningham remembers ducking in the back of her family鈥檚 station wagon as gunfire peppered its side. Her father believed in the country鈥檚 future, which was torn in an epic battle between communism and freedom. Cunningham admired the ways he navigated around the uncertainties of war. 鈥淭he decision was quite simple, really,鈥 Cunningham says. 鈥淲e could stay put and never go anywhere, or we could have a life. We weren鈥檛 going to live in fear, and so we traveled. That鈥檚 what took me to the next level in life.鈥

So instead of staying put, the family would travel out of Salisbury (now Harare) in armored convoys and go on safari anyway. They鈥檇 get rooms at the elegant Victoria Falls Hotel, but on the far side of the building, which was out of range of the rebel-fired mortar rockets.

As a teenager, Cunningham followed her family out of Rhodesia to South Africa and then England to finish high school. In 1987 she took a gap year to study hospitality in Gstaad, Switzerland, where she met Chip, her husband to be. The two eventually bought tickets to the United States, loaded mountain bikes into a forest-green Isuzu Trooper, and spent three months road-tripping, mostly around the American West, on about $10 a day.

鈥淎ll Africans grow up with a desire to see the American West,鈥 she explains. 鈥淭hat frontier spirit seems so embodied there. Every single day was amazing.鈥

The couple settled briefly in Santa Fe before Chip got a work permit to be a bush pilot in Kenya. Sandy eventually found work there managing a group of restaurants and properties in Nairobi, but the city wasn鈥檛 where they wanted to be. Then one day Richard Bonham, a pioneer in the East Africa safari business and an ardent conservationist, called. His lodge, Ol Donyo Wuas, deep in Hemingway鈥檚 Green Hills of Africa and one of the continent鈥檚 finest, had burned down, and he needed an experienced bush pilot and an expert manager to help rebuild it. Would they be interested?

鈥淭his was something we could define, build, make our own and have an imprint on the world,鈥 Cunningham says. 鈥淭o come into a place and replace the managers is fun, but it鈥檚 not a challenge. Chip loved the idea of flying in and out of there, buzzing zebras off the runway. This was the Africa of Hemingway. We said yes.鈥

The two lived in a tent on the property, among some of the mangiest, fiercest lions in Africa, as workers rebuilt the lodge. Their three-legged rottweiler got taken out by a hartebeest. They were chased by ostriches and had to hide in trees. One time a lion attacked a young teenager from a nearby community, puncturing his lungs and turning his back into a sucking wound.

鈥淭here were very real and scary dangers living there,鈥 Cunningham says. 鈥淎nd yet it was magical. Terrifying and still paradise.鈥

Movie stars, Supreme Court justices, and ordinary people who鈥檇 saved up everything to make a dream come true arrived on their grass strip once the work was complete. Cunningham had talked to each of them in depth before arriving, helping to make the experience just right for them. They鈥檇 ride horses and look for rhinos or take guests to secluded spots for cocktails and a sunset. They鈥檇 wake up looking at Kilimanjaro, a purple giant on the horizon, and take parents and kids out to see their first giraffe.

鈥淎frica brings out so much in people,鈥 she says.聽So many years later, bringing that joy to people still shapes her work. Even now, back in the United States, Africa is with them every day鈥 in the landscape, the sunsets, the way they deal with danger.

It was with her that night she walked to the window wielding a machete. She peered outside just in time to see the perpetrator lumbering along a walkway: a bear. A wave of relief washed over her.

鈥淚 don鈥檛 feel the need ever to run away,鈥 she says. 鈥淭hat is what my father taught us鈥攖o believe in something and see it through.鈥


Sandy Cunningham has endured many hardships and obstacles while establishing herself as a leader in the adventure travel industry. Sandy developed the kind of character that believes fear is not what stands in our way, but how we overcome that fear is what defines us as individuals. TUDOR Watch is proudly celebrating the legacy and heritage of adventure travel. The sort of adventure that excites our imaginations and transforms our bodies into vessels of discovery. The spirit of adventure travel lives on through the TUDOR Heritage Ranger, which honors the fortitude of those who have fearlessly pushed beyond their own limits to pave the way for future generations to come.

Check out the Heritage Ranger聽.

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