国产吃瓜黑料

Gordon Hempton uses a sound level meter on the Hoh River Trail.
Gordon Hempton uses a sound level meter on the Hoh River Trail. (Photo: AP)

Welcome to the Quietest Square Inch in the U.S.

And meet the man who鈥檚 made it his mission to keep it that way

Published:  Updated: 
** ADVANCE FOR WEEKEND, OCT. 28-29 **Acoustic ecologist Gordon Hempton uses a sound level meter as he stands on the Hoh River Trail,  Oct. 2, 2006, in the Hoh Rain Forest of Olympic National Park, Wash. Hempton's hope is that by protecting one square inch in the rain forest from man-made sound, a much larger part of the park will reap the benefits. (AP Photo/Elaine Thompson)
(Photo: AP)

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

Reaching the quietest square inch of land in the U.S. is literally a walk in the park. Well,听a rainforest, to be precise. To find it, you hike along the Hoh River in the heart of Olympic National Park, past bigleaf maples carpeted in spike-mosses and around epiphytic ferns sprouting out of the saturated Northwest soil. Eventually you听pass through the split trunk of a Sitka spruce to enter an even muddier, mossier, more verdant nook of the forest. Look to your left and you may notice a tiny red pebble resting on a mossy nurse log, marking 47掳51'57.5″N, 123掳52'13.3″W. That鈥檚 America's听quietest wild place.

The quietest inch isn鈥檛听a sound vacuum.It represents a place with a听minimum听of human-made noise.听The discipline of听acoustic ecology, which is听dedicated to understanding the natural sounds that come through loud and clear听when we're not around,听outlines听an important听distinction between sound and noise.听The blip of water droplets from a forest canopy? Sound. The tinny din of Taylor Swift through smartphone speakers? Noise. For example, the inch, as it's often called, is exposed to flute-like bugling from Roosevelt elk, the Morse-code chirp of the American Dipper, and assertive hooting from the endangered Northern Spotted Owl. The steady rush of the Hoh River rounding the shoulder of Mount Olympus whooshes nearby, and summer snowmelt punctuates the setting with staccato听droplets. In spite of the natural sound, dense forest engulfs the inch in a hush that is, at times, below 20 decibels鈥攓uieter than most recording studios.

The red pebble was put in place in 2005 by , a 62-year-old Emmy Award-winning acoustic ecologist in Washington State who has been recording natural soundscapes for more than 35 years. He switched from merely studying sound听to actively protect quietude ten听years ago,听when he spontaneously lost his ability to hear. The lull in his ears arrived out of nowhere听and he鈥檚 still unsure of the cause, though doctors suggested it could have come from an infection or immune system issue. 鈥淚t sounded like the whole world was an AM radio station as heard from a garden hose,鈥 Hempton says. 鈥淏esides being immediately out of work, I was cut off from the world I loved. I was depressed.鈥

Hempton's hearing began to return 18 months later鈥攁gain out of nowhere鈥攁nd shortly thereafter, he made it his personal mission to visit听natural spaces in all 48 continental states in search of the quietest place he could find. Though he didn't measure decibles in every square inch of the country, he experienced enough of them to know true quiet when he heard it.听He marked his choice with that red pebble, three miles into Olympic National Park, and听named the spot 听(OSI). It鈥檚 the rare place in America that is absent of human-made noise for up to 20 minutes听at a time. OSI represents an independent research project meant to demonstrate how one spot of silence can positively impact its surroundings the same way that听constant loud noise can alter nature鈥檚 normal soundscape and disturb wildlife. Quietude is a valuable natural resource, Hempton argues.

The original red stone marking the quietest square inch in the United States, in Olympic National Park. It was stolen by vandals in 2009.
The original red stone marking the quietest square inch in the United States, in Olympic National Park. It was stolen by vandals in 2009. (Gordon Hempton)

But on the 10th anniversary of the quietest inch, noise in Olympic National Park continues to grow into a worrisome crescendo of sorts. The main offender:听aircraft soaring overhead. The low whirr of planes flying in and out of Seattle-Tacoma International Airport just 40 miles to the听east听and the intermittent blasts from fighter jets at the nearby Naval Air Station on Whidbey Island听are disturbing the area. The thunderous jet engines roll through the sky above the inch every 20 minutes on average, according to Hempton鈥檚 measurements鈥攖hat鈥檚 down from an听hour in 2005, and quickly shrinking.

Hempton admits that one inch of quiet by itself听may not be such a disastrous thing to lose, but he says听OSI represents a cutting-edge effort听to finally put a value听on natural silence.To preserve it,听Hempton has been petitioning the National Parks Service, sending letters to commercial airliners, and rallying local residents. His goal: establish a 鈥渜uiet reserve鈥 in Olympic National Park as a model for other parks to follow. These would be places free of noise from airplanes and other human-created audible disruptions鈥攕imilar to how dark sky reserves ban streetlamps. If he fails, Hempton says,听we may be sounding the death knells of natural sound for good. 鈥淯nless something is done, we鈥檒l see the complete extinction of quiet in the U.S. in our lifetime.鈥


Before the advent of the portable casette recorder in the听late 1960s, scientists who wanted to capture, say, a birdsong in the field had to come prepared with a hefty load of backup batteries, tapes, and large recording devices. The听improvements in recording technology听allowed for the growth of a new discipline of what was then called soundscape ecology in the U.S. and Europe. Nascent sound scientists were tasked with gathering field recordings of nature鈥檚 auditory ensemble鈥攆or example, the sound听of听, complete with birdsong, wind, and the trickle of glacial melt鈥攖hen using them to study the relationship between sound and functioning ecosystems.

As interest in constructing a vast library of sounds grew, the concept of charting noise pollution was also gaining attention. A groundbreaking detailed听its horrifying effects on wildlife: when a military jet flew over a zoo, animals ate 23 of their own babies as a protective response. (Those affected included Siberian tigers, foxes, and lynxes.)Studies have since shown that animals carve out sonic 鈥渘iches鈥 in order to hear mainly the information they need for mating, navigating, hunting, and not being hunted. 鈥淭o interrupt that information flow, even for a few brief seconds, is dangerous,鈥 Hempton says. When exposed to sudden bursts of unfamiliar noise, they revert to survival instincts. In wild areas where noise persists, animals have been known to drop in numbers.听According to a 2006 report from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the Northern spotted owl, an endangered species found in Hoh Rainforest, to neglect feeding its young, or even to eject eggs and juveniles from the nest, when 鈥渉arassing鈥 noises like passing trucks or electric tools听are present.

Hempton at the base of a western hemlock in the Hoh Rainforest.
Hempton at the base of a western hemlock in the Hoh Rainforest. (AP)

Though noise pollution isn鈥檛 quite so life-or-death for humans,听research increasingly presents it as a public health risk. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not unlike the scientific developments we saw in terms of air or water pollution,鈥 says Karen Trevino, chief of the National Park Service鈥檚. 鈥淭he attention has turned to more insidious effects from low-level exposure to noise.鈥澨齌he human body still perceives jarring noise as a danger cue, which triggers a stress response鈥攅ven during sleep, and even in people who have lived in noisy environments for years. When exposed to short, intermittent noises during sleep, study subjects experienced heightened heart rate, blood pressure, and stress hormones. Long-term exposure is even associated with .

The solution is simple: Go outside,听to the most remote natural spaces you can find. The part of the brain that processes sound is 听to the kinds of amplitude and pitch fluctuations found in nature, so even listening to recordings of natural sounds can , improve memory and focus, and lower blood pressure. As Hempton puts it, 鈥淨uiet is quieting.鈥


Earlier this year, scientists with听the National Park Service's Natural Sounds and Night Skies Division produced听a first-of-its-kind set of 鈥noise maps鈥 that showed average sound levels around the U.S. It was听the result of 1.5 million hours of sound recorded听at 600 park sites.听High-decibel hotspots on the maps demonstrated what sound scientists have observed for decades: quiet places are dwindling. As 国产吃瓜黑料 reported when the NPS noise maps first emerged, the researchers who made the maps found one common noise,听even in the backcountry: aircraft.

The National Park Service has 听mandating natural sound preservation, but must work with the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) and the Department of Defense to . The sheer volume of air travel makes carving out no-fly zones a monumental task. According to NOAA, there are more than 87,000 flights over the U.S. daily. Hempton has sent three airlines recordings of their planes flying over OSI, asking them to divert their flight paths from the sky above Hoh Rainforest. 鈥淚n many cases it saves jet fuel,鈥 he says. His efforts were听not as听successful as he'd hoped.听Between 2005 and 2007, all three airlines agreed to divert only their unscheduled flights鈥攖he kind that celebrities or wealthy travelers can request for last-minute trips.听This is because the average commercial flight typically stick to the FAA鈥檚 , which are essentially the traffic lanes of the sky. Defaulting to this does keep air traffic running normally,听but much to Hempton's distress,听some routes听still pass over Olympic National Park.听

Noise from military flights听above the park is another major concern. The U.S. Navy has been flying noisy Prowler and听Growler planes over the Olympic Peninsula since 1942. But a 2014 proposal would increase its听electronic warfare training program听and听would up the number of flights by about 10 percent听from the current number of three flights a day, according to听the Navy. Residents on the Olympic Peninsula鈥攊ncluding created specifically to fight the proposal鈥攕ay military jet flybys register above 100 decibels. 鈥淭he noise levels of these operations will cause a noise impact [to wildlife and human health] that I expect would easily take decades to repair,鈥 Hempton says.

A quiet trail in Olympic National Park.
A quiet trail in Olympic National Park. (Gordon Hempton)

As U.S. Representative Derek Kilmer (D) wrote in a in May, the Navy鈥檚 proposal and environmental assessment lack two key pieces of information: a realistic estimate of the increase in flights over Olympic National Park (the current estimate is an extra 130 flights yearly), and the real-life impact of Growler noise on wildlife and human health. In early June, Hempton received a letter from Kishore Rao, the director of UNESCO鈥檚 World Heritage Center, requesting the latter as well. Olympic National Park is a World Heritage property, and though UNESCO outlines no explicit protection for the area鈥檚 soundscape, Rao indicated concerns that the operations would hurt the wildlife and natural resources that brought it to UNESCO鈥檚 attention in the first place. Navy officials say they will cooperate with the request for more studies, though they haven't given a specific timeline for doing so. A decision on the Navy's proposal has been delayed until 2016 due to these requests as well as a louder-than-usual听citizen response.

In the meantime, Hempton is working on his pitch to the parks service for preserving听quiet. If OSI became the nucleus of the world鈥檚 first quiet reserve, Hempton says, 鈥淲e鈥檇 be the Yellowstone of sound ecotourism.鈥 If Hempton is听successful, OSI听would be the first natural area with zero noise pollution, which Hempton says would be a goldmine of information for sound scientists, not to mention a more natural habitat for animals in the area听and a more听serene experience for visitors.

“I'm optimistic that we can preserve silence, but if it doesn't happen then noise will continue to intrude听until we come around,鈥 Hempton says. 鈥淭here's no alternative to quiet. It's one of those things that keeps us sane in life鈥攍ike clean air, it just takes some smog to remind us why we need it.”

Popular on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online