Depending on which direction you look, the taxiing strip at northern Maine鈥檚 tiny Millinocket Municipal Airport is either New England鈥檚 most blighted runway or its most picturesque. Out the left-hand聽window of an accelerating Cessna, I see the twin smoke-stacks of an abandoned paper mill surrounded by chain-link fences and corroding storage tanks. To the right is the cambered whaleback of Mount Katahdin breaching up from the green swells of the Maine highlands. It鈥檚 like watching establishing shots for two different documentaries: on the right, a soaring, Planet Earth鈥搒tyle aerial; on the left, an image from Roger & Me.
鈥淟ook down there,鈥 says a voice in my聽headset. 鈥淵ou鈥檒l see some clear-cuts, but mostly it鈥檚 been thinned pretty聽sparingly.鈥 The voice belongs to Mark Leathers, a 53-year-old forester who manages the 74,000-acre woodland parcel spread out before us. We鈥檙e just east of Katahdin now, looking down at a seemingly untouched playground of wooded foothills and trout streams tumbling off the mountains to the west. The most dramatic of these is the East Branch of the Penobscot River. Leathers, perched in the plane鈥檚 front seat, points out a few burly-looking Class IV whitewater runs. If he and his boss, conservationist and Burt鈥檚 Bees cofounder Roxanne Quimby, have their way, this wilderness will be America鈥檚 next national park.聽
Suddenly, the Cessna takes a hard 45-degree tilt. 鈥淐heck out the moose,鈥 yells聽Leathers. Sure enough, there鈥檚 a cow wading in an聽oxbow pond below, head down, seemingly oblivious to the drone of our engine.
Technically, this Idaho-shaped chunk of land, which contains a 30-mile stretch of the International Appalachian Trail, is known as the East Branch Sanctuary. But around Millinocket it鈥檚 simply referred to as 鈥淨uimby鈥檚 land.鈥 The self-made millionaire owns it, along with 119,000 acres of other timber-company lands that she started buying up back in 2000, when Burt鈥檚 Bees was raking in about $23 million a year. Her plan was to give the property to the聽National Park Service, thereby galvanizing other donations that would eventually establish a 3.2-million-acre wilderness in the last great undeveloped region east of the Rockies.聽
But the campaign stalled out of the gate. Public land is a tough sell in northern Maine, where residents are accustomed to hunting, fishing, snowmobiling, and cutting聽timber. Many didn鈥檛 cotton to the rhetoric of a wealthy environmentalist; others feared that the proposed park would spell the end of the region鈥檚 struggling paper mills. The fact that Quimby first partnered with a Massachusetts conservation non-profit called Restore didn鈥檛 help matters. She鈥檇 managed to align herself with the three groups viewed most skeptically in northern Maine: enviros, the federal government, and Massholes.
But a dozen years and a few hundred Ban Roxanne bumper stickers later, Quimby is back with more practical ambitions. Last spring she announced plans for a dramatically reduced 74,000-acre Maine Woods National Park just east of Katahdin, carved entirely from her own property. And thanks to better diplomacy and a new emphasis on economic benefit, Quimby is beginning to win hearts and minds. In the past two years, the region鈥檚 chamber of commerce has come on board, and snowmobile clubs, logging operations, and other former opponents have lined up to endorse a special resource study鈥攁n essential precursor to the park. Alexander Brash, northeast regional director of the聽National Parks Conservation Association, calls the rebooted park 鈥渁 realistic expectation,鈥 pointing to polls that show solid majorities of Mainers now willing to entertain the idea.聽
鈥淧eople in northern Maine like living in the woods,鈥 says Quimby. 鈥淭hey like to fish and hunt and hike. But they don鈥檛 see conservation as an abstract concept that needs protection. That鈥檚 not important to them. What鈥檚 important is jobs.鈥 And in the past聽decade, unemployment in the Katahdin聽region has fluctuated between eight and 28聽percent.
鈥淚鈥檝e had a lot of experience creating economic prosperity,鈥 she continues. 鈥淣ow people in this region need that, so it鈥檚 a better story than, you know, 鈥楲et鈥檚 save habitat.鈥欌夆
Quimby's聽connection聽to northern Maine dates to the mid-'70s, when she spent a decade living in a cabin and waiting tables before launching Burt鈥檚 Bees. The daughter of an engineer and a stay-at-home mom, she was born in Massachusetts and headed west in 1969 to attend the San聽Francisco Art Institute. California鈥檚 back-to-the-land movement soon got under her skin. In 1974, armed with a bachelor鈥檚 degree, a microbus, and a few tattered issues of Mother Earth News, she and a boyfriend drove cross-country in search of a homestead. They聽landed near Dover-Foxcroft, Maine, where they bought 20 acres for $3,000. Quimby was still living in her cabin 10 years later鈥攚ith twin children but without plumbing, electricity, or the boyfriend鈥攚hen she met a beekeeper named Burt Shavitz. The pair went into the beeswax business, selling soap at craft fairs and, eventually, Manhattan boutiques. In 1991, Quimby concocted a recipe for lip balm, and within two years Burt鈥檚 Bees was moving into an 18,000-square-foot headquarters in tax-friendly North Carolina. Clorox paid $913 million for the company in 2007.
Quimby, now 61, tells me about her rise while seated in the dining room of her tasteful colonial home in Portland. She smiles easily, but her speech is boardroom deliberate and sprinkled with business jargon. 鈥淩oxanne鈥檚 casual appearance and style can lead聽others to underestimate the power of her insights and impact,鈥 says former Burt鈥檚 Bees CEO John Replogle, now the chief executive at eco-products titan Seventh Generation. 鈥淪he鈥檚 extremely adept in the boardroom.鈥 Despite her intent to donate the property, Quimby refers to her woodland holdings as 鈥渋nvestments.鈥 The returns, she explains, will be 鈥渁ccumulated by future generations.鈥澛
If she were motivated by conservation alone, a donation to, say, the Nature Conservancy would be a lot easier than the proposed park. Quimby, however, wants her land to attract visitors鈥攍ots of them. She feels a deep kinship with George Dorr, who devoted his fortune to help establish Acadia National Park in the early 20th century, and is an admirer of author Richard Louv, who coined the term nature deficit disorder to describe kids鈥 alienation from the outdoors.
鈥淲e have to reconnect Americans, particularly young ones, with nature,鈥 she says. 鈥淚f we don鈥檛 get people into the parks, then it doesn鈥檛 matter how much land we聽conserve.鈥 In other words, the Maine woods need protection, but they also need marketing. To hear Quimby tell it, the park service is a superior brand to a big conservation group. It is also, she insists, a quintessentially democratic institution. Quimby, a dedicated聽liberal,聽argues that there are no聽political partisans in the backcountry鈥攄espite an election year聽already seething with antigovernment rhetoric. 鈥淭o me, all that politics is just weather,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut our basic American values? Those are climate. And in America, we put a value on our public lands.鈥澛
If this sounds Pollyannaish, consider the numbers. Last year, some 280 million guests visited the national park system, which contains about 400 鈥渦nits鈥濃攅verything from parks and trails to monuments and historic sites. Tourists drop $11.3 billion each year in park gateway towns like West Yellowstone, Montana, and Bar Harbor, Maine. As聽Quimby says, 鈥淚t鈥檚 very well聽documented that park service units create jobs.鈥
There are essentially two ways to聽create a national park. The first: Congress asks the National Park Service, which is run by the Department of the Interior, for a special resource study鈥攁n evaluation of a site鈥檚 worthiness. The NPS outlines the would-be park鈥檚 boundaries and budget and sends the study to Congress, which has the final say. Congress can ignore a favorable NPS analysis or even authorize a park that the service has not endorsed, as in the case of Alabama鈥檚 Muscle Shoals National Heritage Area, which was designated in 2009 before the NPS even finished its study.
The other method is for the president to confer national-monument status by executive order. This privilege was granted聽under the 1906 Antiquities Act, which聽Teddy Roosevelt used two years later to create Grand Canyon National Monument, thwarting politicians tied to logging and mining who鈥檇聽opposed a national park for decades. Ever since, monument status鈥攚hich聽focuses on preservation rather than recreation鈥攈as been both an end run around the sticky congressional process and a training-wheels program for future national parks. But it can take a while: the Grand Canyon, for example, became a park only in 1919, after the monument鈥檚 popularity and profitability gradually won over the opposition. Six new national parks have been designated in the past 20 years, most recently Colorado鈥檚 Great Sand Dunes in 2004鈥攁nd most of these were聽already national monuments. Not since Minnesota鈥檚 Voyageurs in 1971 has a new national park been created from scratch鈥攖hat is, via the large-scale acquisition of private land.
鈥淭he parks are so loved, we assume that they were handed down by a benevolent Congress,鈥 says Dayton Duncan, writer and co-producer of the PBS series The National Parks: America鈥檚 Best Idea. 鈥淏ut when you start to turn over the rock of any national park, you find the opposite鈥攖hat Congress is the last one to the table.鈥
For Quimby, the fact that it鈥檚 been 40 years since the creation of a truly new聽national park just means we鈥檙e overdue. But she needs a majority of Maine鈥檚 four federal legislators to adopt this view before it can go before Congress and the NPS. Only one of those members, Democratic representative Chellie Pingree, has backed the essential special聽resource study. Getting the rest of the delegation on board requires support from the rural north, where constituents tend to have better relations with timber companies than with government entities.聽
鈥淚 see the discussion about 70,000 acres of federal park as a real dangerous kind of precedent,鈥 says Patrick Strauch, executive director of the Maine Forest Products Council, an industry lobbying organ.聽
Already, the post-bubble political climate has ensnared many proposed public lands in a sort of culture-war catch-22. On the one hand, the Obama administration advocates investment in parks as a step toward economic recovery. In 2009, an incoming President Obama pledged more than a billion dollars of stimulus money to the NPS. But that largesse has since dwindled, and to date the administration has added just six park units. (Bush added 12 units during his eight years in office, Clinton added 19, and Ronald Reagan, whose first interior secretary, James Watt, was vilified for his anti-conservation policies, added 17.)聽
鈥淲ith the change of administration came a real sense of excitement,鈥 says Duncan. 鈥淭hat has now collided with a new political reality in which the House is being held hostage by people who believe there is no role for government.鈥 Opponents of the Maine Woods聽National Park, Duncan points out, make largely the same arguments as those who protested the Grand Canyon a century ago: 鈥淎 philosophy is taking hold that鈥檚 very much in tune with the robber-baron era of the 19th century. Teddy Roosevelt came in and fought it then, but it鈥檚 the same philosophy today.鈥
So how do you聽win support for a national park when locals don鈥檛 want it and the political climate seems untenable? Quimby started by mending fences with sportsmen, offering an additional 45,000 of her acres to the state. This land, which is just south of the proposed park, would allow hunting, snowmobiling, and timber harvesting.
鈥淚 was her harshest critic, no question,鈥 says George Smith, who served as director of the Sportsman鈥檚 Alliance of Maine from 1993 to 2010. When Quimby asked to meet with him in 2006, Smith was flabbergasted. 鈥淏ut she changed her approach, and she did a lot to accommodate us鈥攄esignating snowmobile trails, selling back some of the land.鈥澛
Still, Quimby鈥檚 primary tactic has been to focus on potential economic perks, pointing east to Acadia, where visitor spending has helped create some 3,150 jobs. She鈥檚 pledged $40 million to get the new park off the ground鈥攈alf from fundraising, half out of her own pocket. And if her timing seems poor in Washington, it couldn鈥檛 be better in northern Maine, where paper mills have been closing at an alarming rate. Last year, unemployment in the聽Katahdin region hovered around 22 percent.聽
鈥淎t what point do you decide you鈥檇 better look elsewhere?鈥 asks Smith. 鈥淲hen you鈥檝e lost a thousand jobs? Two thousand?鈥澛
Quimby has set a goal of donating the land by 2016鈥攖he Park Service鈥檚 centennial anniversary. The odds of meeting that goal seem long, but there鈥檚 no denying Quimby鈥檚 progress: endorsing a special聽resource study are predictable supporters like the Sierra Club and the state鈥檚 Natural Resources Council, but also the聽Katahdin Area Chamber of Commerce, a few snowmobile clubs, and a logging聽empire that鈥檚 locally renowned for its role in the Discovery Channel show American Loggers. And Quimby鈥檚 plan is certainly on the Interior聽Department鈥檚 radar. She鈥檚 friendly with Secretary Ken Salazar鈥攖hey both sit on the board of the National Parks Foundation, which funnels private money to the parks. Last August, during a tour of the Northeast, Salazar and NPS聽director Jon Jarvis held an impromptu public forum in Millinocket. Salazar stressed his impartiality, but as former NPS northeast associate director Robert McIntosh tells me, 鈥淩eading the tea leaves, I don鈥檛 think Salazar would have gone to Millinocket if he wasn鈥檛 interested.鈥澛
Then, of course, there鈥檚 the presidential election. If Obama is victorious in the fall, nothing much changes, and Quimby continues lobbying for public opinion. Ironically, park supporters could benefit if Mitt Romney is elected鈥攊t would hasten the chance for an 11th-hour executive order from Obama. The truth is, national monuments are often designated during an outgoing president鈥檚聽final days in office: Clinton designated seven in his last week in office, and Bush created the 95,000-square-mile Marianas Trench Marine National Monument as he departed in 2009. Quimby, however, cares little for聽political football. She takes the counterintuitive view that local controversy bodes well for a future park鈥攕he is, after all, fighting the same slow battle that once聽created Acadia and the Grand Canyon. 鈥淚n 100 years,鈥 she says, 鈥渢he park will be there, and the聽objections will be long gone.鈥澛犅犅犅犅犅犅犅犅犅犅犅