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urban climbing indoor climbing indoor rock climbing brooklyn boulders climb so ill
Amateur climber Cinque Kemp at Brooklyn Boulders. (Michael Rubenstein)

The Next Urban Sports Craze

Indoor climbing could soon replace spin class as the urban professional鈥檚 sport of choice鈥攁nd that has marketers salivating

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urban climbing indoor climbing indoor rock climbing brooklyn boulders climb so ill
(Photo: Michael Rubenstein)

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At the sprawling 18,000-square-foot Brooklyn Boulders climbing gym, the theme song from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles pumps out of a sound system next to a 12-foot-high Adidas advertisement featuring 20-year-old climbing star Sasha DiGiulian. Eighty adults, all wearing purple, bounce off walls, yell, and generally behave like overcaffeinated primates. One guy hops from a slackline onto a series of mats, trying not to touch the ground. The crowd roars and the music rocks: Mi-chel-an-ge-lo is a party dude!

1,000

People per day taking up climbing at U.S. climbing gyms.

This is 鈥 signature event, an obstacle race called the Lava Monster. The premise is simple鈥攖he floor is lava, so don鈥檛 touch it鈥攁nd the rewards are pretty good: free beer for the runner-up and, for the winner, a coveted membership to the three-year-old gym, which has become a hub for New York鈥檚 adventure-sports community. Tonight, in mid-November, a week after Hurricane Sandy blasted the city, Brooklyn Boulders (or BKB) had to turn away 30 people who had hoped to pay $15 to race up the walls. 鈥淲e brought partying to climbing,鈥 says Lance Pinn, 28, the gym鈥檚 former-frat-boy co-founder, “and voil脿.”

BKB is a leader among a new group of climbing gyms: facilities that cater in equal measure to serious dirtbags and beginners from upper tax brackets who are ready to leave Zumba behind. A half-dozen big gyms have opened in the past three years in obvious places like Boulder and Seattle, but also in Atlanta, Montreal, and St. Louis, where a group called just launched a 10,000-square-foot center in a former hospital power plant. More are coming, most notably , a high-end, 25,000-square-foot Orange County, California, facility co-owned by climbing icon Chris Sharma, and a Boston offshoot of Brooklyn Boulders equipped with saunas, a yoga studio, a caf茅, and, according to Pinn, 鈥渁 staff lounge of epic proportions.鈥 The gyms are a far cry from the urban training dungeons that sprang up in the '90s, and climbing insiders hope they鈥檙e the beginning of a national movement.

鈥淚n Boulder and Salt Lake City, everybody gets it,鈥 says Adam Koberna, U.S. sales manager for , the Bulgarian company that is one of the world鈥檚 largest manufacturers of climbing walls. 鈥淏ut these other areas, that鈥檚 where the growth is: St. Louis, Chicago, New York. The U.S. is getting ready to explode.鈥

Some think that鈥檚 an ambitious assessment. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a small industry, and we鈥檝e got a half-dozen big projects that are running this way,鈥 says Bill Zimmerman, executive director of the Boulder-based . 鈥淚s that a trend? I don鈥檛 know. I do know that there鈥檚 a buzz about these places, and people want lifestyle facilities that aren鈥檛 hardcore climbing gyms.鈥

Just how imminent the explosion is may not matter, as long as marketers can sell the sport to open-minded yuppies. Which is already happening. has a new lifestyle-oriented climbing line coming this spring, and , a spin-off of the athletic-apparel brand, recently bought the climbing-and-biking-shoe company and is supplying 26 urban gyms across the country with employee clothing.

鈥淭he outdoor-climbing market is not growing leaps and bounds,鈥 says Greg Thomsen, managing director for Adidas Outdoors. 鈥淏ut gym climbing has a very strong growth rate. Something like 1,000 people a day are starting to sport climb, according to our research.鈥

Many are inspired by a new generation of climbers鈥攖he ones pushing the sport beyond its limits鈥攚ho often train indoors, like BKB regulars DiGiulian, a Columbia University student, and 12-year-old Manhattan bouldering phenom Ashima Shiraishi.

Star power gives the sport cachet, but it鈥檚 the first-time climbers looking to try some bouldering, take a yoga class, and order a latte鈥攐r wear purple, hop off the walls, and scream鈥攖hat have entrepreneurs like Pinn thinking about franchising. Once the Boston gym opens this month, Pinn is relocating to a new city (he won鈥檛 say which) to begin scouting a third location. 鈥淣o one鈥檚 started a national climbing-gym chain,鈥 he says with a smile. 鈥淵et.鈥澨

From 国产吃瓜黑料 Magazine, Feb 2013 Lead Photo: Michael Rubenstein

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