(Photo: Mt. Shasta Climbing Rangers)
Two fatal falls occurred on California鈥檚 Mount Shasta 14,179 feet in the past month, both on the mountain鈥檚 鈥渆asiest鈥 late-season route, .
At first glance, the deaths are surprising. By September, the ultra-prominent volcano is largely free of snow, often rendering the Clear Creek route a non-technical hike. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a slog of a scree slope,鈥 said Sage Milestone of the Siskiyou County Sheriff鈥檚 Office.
Yet Milestone and the peak鈥檚 lead climbing ranger, Nick Meyers of the U.S. Forest Service, told Climbing that the deaths highlight a stark reality. Even on an otherwise easy route, poor decision-making can compound into serious accidents, and even death.
The most recent death occurred on September 12. Silicon Valley executive Mat铆as Travizano, a 45-year-old Argentinian man, was descending from the mountain when he wandered off route, according to Milestone. Although Travizano had arrived at the mountain alone, he linked up with two other men hiking at the same pace, and the trio summited together. Travizano and one other man began to hike down slightly ahead of the third, who later reported the accident.
Clouds had socked in the peak and visibility was poor. As the men descended from the main summit plateau, all three veered off-route to the east.
鈥淚t鈥檚 pretty steep, and it鈥檚 all scree, so it鈥檚 easy to lose the trail, particularly with bad visibility,鈥 said Milestone. She added that no clear landmarks exist to identify the way down. At around 13,500 feet, the party realized they were off route when they reached a perennial snowfield, near the uppermost tip of the Wintun Glacier.
The men were hiking without crampons, ice axes, , or other traction equipment for traveling across snow and ice. But instead of hiking to regain the correct, snow-free route, they decided to glissade down the snow and ice to save time.
鈥淭hey didn鈥檛 want to climb back up and regain a bunch of elevation,鈥 Milestone explained. But jagged, exposed rock littered the snowfield, and it was incredibly icy due to the low temperatures. 鈥淚t was a very bad time to glissade.鈥
Chiefly, without ice axes, the men had no way to control their slide or self-arrest.
Soon after beginning to slide, Travizano lost control and gained speed rapidly. After plummeting down the slope around 300 feet, he collided with a large rock, knocking himself unconscious. Witnessing this, the second climber spent a few minutes trying to pick his way down the icy slope to reach Travizano and render aid.
He came close. But when he was roughly 80 feet up slope from Travizano, the man 鈥渞egained consciousness, tried to stand up, and just fell,鈥 Milestone explained. The 45-year-old continued to slide at an increasing rate of speed, down into the gloom and out of sight.
At this point, it also dawned on the climber who saw Travizano fall that he was stranded on the same icy slope and was afraid to move.
鈥淗e couldn鈥檛 get off, and he was having a really hard time self-rescuing from that position,鈥 Milestone said.
The third climber, who had descended more slowly from above, was the most experienced in the party, according to Milestone, and was able to coach this man off the steep slope. The two later regained the trail using and called in the accident. Travizano鈥檚 lifeless body was located by 6:45 P.M., some 2,000 feet below, according to Milestone. His body was not recovered until the following day, however, due to storms and increasingly poor visibility.
Travizano was a native of Argentina, but lived in the United States in recent years. He was the founder and former CEO of GranData鈥攁 Silicon Valley startup dedicated to data analysis and the development of new forms of artificial intelligence鈥攚hich he sold last year.
鈥淗e had been on Aconcagua and a few other South American mountains,鈥 Milestone said. 鈥淭his was definitely not his first mountaineering expedition, but it was his first time on Mount Shasta.鈥 A friend of Travizano鈥檚 as a brilliant mentor, 鈥渁 special human being,鈥 and a 鈥済reat leader鈥 with a love of nature. He is survived by his wife and son.
This season鈥檚 second fatality on Mount Shasta occurred just a month earlier, on August 16, on the same route. A pair of climbers had summited via Clear Creek, also during a stormy period and without wet-weather gear. As they descended to their camp, they became lost. It was their first time on the mountain.
鈥淭hey got on the wrong ridge, took it down to like 11,000 feet鈥攃ompletely off trail鈥攁nd couldn鈥檛 find their basecamp,鈥 Milestone said. 鈥淪o the two men split up and went looking in opposite directions.鈥
One individual found the camp, and since he had cell reception, he was able to call his partner. The man managed to communicate to his partner that he was lost, but was clearly suffering from altitude sickness. He was disoriented and borderline incoherent.
鈥淭he guy was trying to explain where he was at, but then they lost service,鈥 Milestone said.
Storms, which had been brewing on the peak all day, quickly worsened.
鈥淚t started raining, heavy cloud cover came in,鈥 Milestone recalled. 鈥淪iskiyou Search and Rescue, CHP [California Highway Patrol] Air Ops, and the climbing rangers all searched through the night on that one, but they couldn鈥檛 find him.鈥
The man was later discovered at the bottom of a steep cliff band, 鈥渨edged between an ice sheet and the cliff.鈥 He had sustained significant head trauma and was found alive but unconscious. He died in the hospital two days later.
鈥淧eople have a very lax view of this route,鈥 Milestone said of Shasta鈥檚 Clear Creek. 鈥淲e see a lot of accidents this time of year on that route, because it attracts the least experienced folks, who want to take a stab at climbing Shasta in a non-technical way. Then you get some pretty gnarly weather, or just lack of experience, and bad stuff can happen.鈥
Just a few days before this fatality, on August 10, another serious but non-fatal glissading accident occurred. An unnamed climber lost control while glissading down another route, Avalanche Gulch, tumbling several hundred feet down the mountain. The climber was injured, but was successfully rescued.
In total, Milestone said there have been nine rescue operations on Shasta this season.
The Forest Service鈥檚 Nick Meyers is Shasta鈥檚 lead climbing ranger, with 22 years of experience working the peak. He also manages the Mount Shasta Wilderness Program and serves as director of the .
鈥淲e try hard to spread the gospel of safe mountaineering practices, but you can鈥檛 hit home runs all day long,鈥 Meyers told Climbing.
Shasta usually sees between one and three fatal accidents and a dozen rescue operations each year, so the two deaths and nine calls so far in 2025 don鈥檛 exceed average incident levels. According to Meyers, prime climbing season on Shasta begins, snowfall depending, in late April. The season continues through May and June, tapering off after early July, when snow starts to deteriorate.
Although Clear Creek is generally a safe, non-technical route, Meyers adds that it鈥檚 still a long, steep slog, with extensive elevation gain. If parties stray off course, anything can happen. When the route experiences good conditions鈥攁nd is followed correctly鈥攖he route is what Meyers and his rangers recommend for late-season climbs.
The fact that the men involved in the September 12 accident were not carrying crampons or axes wasn鈥檛 necessarily indicative of poor decision-making.
鈥淲e鈥檒l even go so far as to say, you don鈥檛 need to bring an ice axe and crampons for Clear Creek in good conditions,鈥 Meyers said. 鈥淭his is granted鈥攊n all capitals鈥攖hat you stay on the route. Don鈥檛 get Casual Day Syndrome. Don鈥檛 treat it as just a hike.鈥
Rather, the September 12 incident resulted from not just one, but multiple bad decisions, Meyers added. The men climbed despite weather reports forecasting poor conditions later in the day, leading them to summit in a whiteout. This poor visibility, coupled with inadequate navigation, contributed to their party becoming off-route during their descent and arriving at the top of the glacier. The decision to glissade, instead of retrace their steps, was another apparent blunder. For one, the men had no axes, and the terrain was in particularly poor condition.
鈥淭his time of the year, the snow is so nasty,鈥 Meyers said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 dirty and icy鈥攁 total cheese grater.鈥
Shasta is one of the few glaciated 14,000-foot peaks in the contiguous United States, and among the most topographically prominent summits on the continent. Like many 14ers, it can morph from a day hike into a serious objective, depending on season, conditions, route choice, and fitness and experience.
Under ideal late-season conditions, Clear Creek can feel like a straightforward hike (this author ran the route in trail shoes in a morning last September). But the weather can change in an instant, and staying on course is crucial. Checking can also help anyone vying for Shasta鈥檚 summit plan their trip more safely.
鈥淩emember, a route description is for that route,鈥 Meyers said. 鈥淚f you get off route, you very likely will encounter different conditions.鈥
The climbing ranger鈥檚 final piece of advice?
鈥淒o not climb into a whiteout or storm. Check the weather. Use navigation tools. Be prepared. In a lot of the accidents we see, folks are checking boxes that are pretty easy to avoid checking.鈥