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Nguyen climbs slick limestone over the waters of Cat Ba Island in Ha Long Bay.
Nguyen climbs slick limestone over the waters of Cat Ba Island in Ha Long Bay. (Photo: Dave Lucas)

Meet Vu Nguyen, the World鈥檚 Best Barefoot Climber

The climbing guide is pushing limits with the soles of his feet

Published: 
Nguyen climbs slick limestone over the waters of Cat Ba Island in Ha Long Bay.
(Photo: Dave Lucas)

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When you talk to Vu Nguyen about climbing, you鈥檒l quickly notice two things: first, he鈥檚 very shy, and second, about every few words out of his mouth is 鈥渟trong.” Nguyen is slim, muscular, and nimble, with coiffed hair and a quiet demeanor. Sitting on a beach just off Vietnam鈥檚 Ha Long Bay, he explains how he scrambled up a 5.13 limestone route and dangled by the hook of his heel for several minutes over the water with ease鈥攚ithout climbing shoes.

Nguyen digs his聽toes dig into small crevices and grinds his heels against the pockmarked stone, moves that would make most other people grimace in pain, but he doesn鈥檛 seem to mind. 鈥淚t hurts a little bit,鈥 he admits in his limited English, explaining that the direct contact with the rock, although grating, actually creates a more secure hold. 鈥淏ut no shoes鈥攎ore strong.鈥

The 24-year-old, who hails from Hue in central Vietnam, is a climbing guide at . However, recently he鈥檚 become better known as one of the best climbers in the country, and one of the best barefoot climbers in the world. To be fair, the climbing culture is just developing among Vietnamese, and barefoot climbing isn鈥檛 especially trendy. There are no official barefoot climbing competitions, and most climbers will tell you that shoes allow you to grip the rock and stick your feet in cracks and crevices that would be incredibly painful in bare feet.聽

Lynn Hill, an American climbing pioneer and one of the first Western climbers to bolt routes in Ha Long Bay鈥攁 popular climbing and vacation spot鈥攊n the late 1990s, says many climbers like to boulder or climb barefoot casually, for the sake of simplicity, but she doesn鈥檛 know anyone who does it regularly and to the degree of difficulty that Nguyen does. 鈥淚鈥檝e never heard of anyone climbing something as hard as a 5.13 barefoot,鈥 Hill says. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 think I could do that, because I鈥檓 so used to wearing shoes all the time.聽

鈥淗owever, I could see how climbing barefoot could be an advantage,鈥 Hill adds. 鈥淥ur movements are based on sensory inputs, and if you鈥檙e wearing shoes, that鈥檚 mainly through your eyes and your hands. You can see the appeal of having your feet on the rock as well.鈥 Ha Long Bay鈥檚 intimidating spires offer plenty of small rock hooks that would favor a single bare toe over an entire shoe鈥攂ut it鈥檚 limestone, which really tears at bare skin, Hill says.

(Dave Lucas)

Asia Outdoors is based on Cat Ba Island just off the bay. The dramatic, craggy cliff islands that dot the bay boast 100-feet high limestone routes and cracks on ominous-looking white and gray walls. It鈥檚 an area famous for deep water soloing (climbing above water with no rope or harness, where a climber can fall safely), and is an emerging climbing Mecca. It鈥檚 Nguyen鈥檚 playground, and whether he鈥檚 guiding a group or off duty, when he climbs, all eyes are on him.

Casually, Nguyen chalks up his fingers and toes and hops onto Hawaii 5-O, a 5.13-rated deep-water solo route. He crawls onto the main wall with a series of difficult bouldering moves, and in about a minute has scaled about a hundred feet up on the towering cliff like a monkey would. He鈥檚 in his usual: no shoes and baggy sweatpants. At the top, instead of jumping into the water like everyone else, Ngyuen swiftly climbs back down and hops into a waiting boat. 鈥淚 don鈥檛 like to jump. I like climbing down,鈥 he says.

Nguyen started climbing when he was 18, having taken a job with Asia Outdoors, a company where his brother and sister previously worked as office staff and guides. He took to it naturally. For him, guiding simply seemed like a better prospect than the motorbike mechanic shop where he鈥檇 been working. Plus, he has seven siblings聽and he wasn鈥檛 going to pass up good work.

鈥淏efore I worked here, I thought I鈥檇 come here to make some money to help my family back in central Vietnam. But then I thought climbing was so interesting, and I wanted more climbing challenges. It made me feel happy and accomplished, and I couldn鈥檛 get enough,鈥 said Nguyen through a translator. He remembers realizing he had exceptional talent four years ago when he was guiding a group of elite climbers. He noticed he was completing some very difficult routes while others weren鈥檛. It was an amazing feeling, he says. Nguyen began pushing his abilities, training daily, and even building a bamboo training gym of his own design on the roof of his apartment building.

As for climbing barefoot, it is just the way Nguyen has always done it. He remembers putting climbing shoes on for the first time. They were uncomfortable and hurt his toes. He decided to climb barefoot, and soon made a habit of going shoeless on the rock. 鈥淣ow, I prefer to climb without shoes because I am able to feel every detail of the rock with my toes, and I love feeling so close to nature,鈥 he says.聽

Plus, he鈥檚 exceptional at it.

Nguyen once tried wearing shoes for a bouldering contest he entered, but struggled to adjust to the cramped footwear. After the competition, frustrated, he took off his shoes and flashed the final route as everyone stared. 鈥淲hen people see him (climb barefoot), other people inevitably want to try. No one does it at the level that Vu does, though,鈥 said Asia Outdoors general manager Chris Johnson.

Barefoot climbing gained some brief popularity in the 鈥70s, most famously done by German climbing great Bernd Arnold. Chris Sharma appears in one segment of the movie 聽messing around with no shoes, but as Hill points out, few people climb this way at a high level. Nguyen, however, climbs tough 5.14 routes in Ha Long bay鈥檚 Butterfly Valley in his bare feet.聽

鈥淚 personally do not know of anyone that climbs routes that that hard barefoot鈥攅specially on limestone (which is more slippery than sandstone to granite) on a regular basis,鈥 said the USA Climbing team鈥檚 head coach Claudiu Vidulescu. 鈥淣evertheless, it鈥檚 an amazing feat.鈥

Nguyen has dreams of climbing professionally around the world, and getting the chance to test his limits for the first time on a 5.15. For now, he鈥檚 only ventured as far as Vietnam, China, and Thailand. However, he sees his most important role as an ambassador for the sport in his home country. He may get a chance to climb in front of Vietnam as part of his latest challenge, which isn鈥檛 on the rock, but as a competitor in Vietnam Ninja Warrior. He completed the preliminary rounds in November and hopes to return to Hanoi for the show in February.

鈥淢ost Vietnamese people don鈥檛 know much about climbing. They think it鈥檚 something for foreign people, but not for Vietnamese,鈥 he said, adding that it even took a while for his parents to appreciate what he does. 鈥淚 want to be a good, good climber, go everywhere in Vietnam and put up more routes. Maybe more people will discover climbing, want to try it, and find it as fun as I do.鈥

Lead Photo: Dave Lucas

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