I had just clipped the third bolt on a warm up route at a crag called The Shire when I heard the shouting below me. The ruckus shattered the idyllic quiet of a Kentucky spring day at the Red River Gorge, one of America鈥檚 most iconic climbing areas. I glanced down to find my belayer yelling at another party. Unbeknownst to me, their dog had snuffled through our gear and eaten our lunch.
鈥淗aha, little rascal,鈥 the dog’s owner said. 鈥淚sn鈥檛 he cute? Dogs are gonna be dogs.鈥
I quickly climbed to the top of the route and clipped the chains. My partner lowered me and I began to assess the damage. Their pup had pushed over my pack so the roll top unspooled and had eaten my sandwich and all of my crag snacks. He鈥檇 chewed halfway through my friend’s quesadilla before she’d alerted the dog’s owner.
We鈥檇 driven seven hours from school for a weekend climbing trip now our day was ruined by a dog owner鈥檚 inability to be responsible at the crag. We no longer had enough food to continue to climb, and the crag was enough of a hike and a drive from our campsite that it wasn鈥檛 worth returning after a resupply. We climbed til our bellies ached and then trundled back to in search of pizza.
I鈥檝e been a climber longer than I鈥檝e been just about anything else, and I鈥檝e met every kind of聽crag dog imaginable. The sleepy ones, the hyperactive ones, the defensive ones at bouldering spots that bark until their owner returns to the ground. Here鈥檚 what I鈥檝e learned over the last 15 years: there鈥檚 no good reason to bring a dog to a crag.
Sure, I’ve met some good dogs. But the crux of the matter isn鈥檛 the dogs or their behavior. It鈥檚 the fact that I can count the number of good dog owners I鈥檝e met on one hand. Now, I鈥檓 not here to tell anyone they don鈥檛 love (or exercise) their pup enough. But almost no one trains their dog enough to expect it to behave at the base of a crag.
My Dog Knows How to Sit and Stay. What’s the Problem?
Here’s the thing: dogs can’t take pieces of information and generalize them like humans can. Training that applies to climbing doesn’t translate for dogs to skiing or hiking or anything else. Take my friend Liz Morrow, a K9 handler for King County SAR, for example. She wanted a super smart and trainable puppy to join her local Search and Rescue group, so she found a breeder that specializes in working dogs and acquired a German Shepherd who had a particularly keen sense of smell.
Morrow has worked tirelessly with her dog Lyla to train emergency recall, leash skills, and staying calm in high-stress situations. This dog can find live people and dead bodies in the woods and is the gentlest and most respectful dog I鈥檝e ever seen. She鈥檚 amazing. And Morrow, a climber herself, still leaves Lyla at home when she goes to the crag.
Training a dog to stay out of trouble at a crag is different than search-and-rescue, she told me. “I think Lyla would be a total mess at the crag.鈥 She went on to tell me that 鈥淲e’ve put in thousands of hours of training with Lyla, and if we had focused those hours on crag dog skills maybe my answer would be different.鈥 But training doesn鈥檛 cross over and cover all scenarios.
No amount of 鈥淗e鈥檚 friendly!鈥 shouts from 100 feet away will make me comfortable with your off-leash husky charging me pell mell. It鈥檚 not cute to steal food from broke college kids鈥 bags, and it鈥檚 certainly not endearing to watch your dog erode the crag or tear through crowds of belayers trying to focus because it saw a squirrel.
People who like adventure sports love being outside, and assume their dogs do too. But most folks bring their pooch along because it鈥檚 convenient, not because they鈥檙e actually focused on the dog鈥檚 needs. 鈥淚s the dog actually enjoying being there?鈥 asks Morrow. 鈥淎re the people meeting the dogs needs or is the dog suffering in the heat and overstimulated with unmet needs because it’s convenient for the owners?鈥
What Does it Take to Train an 国产吃瓜黑料 Dog?
Folks love recommending working dogs to people who hike because they are smart and have lots of energy. They can keep up with you. But dogs from the herding group are bred to be really sensitive to movement. They are genetically coded to want to control how you鈥攁nd anyone else at a crag鈥攎ove through space through barking and kettling you. A lab, meanwhile, may not even think to bark at a stranger.
And sure, you can control those behaviors through hours of intensive training, but the second you鈥檙e off your game with 鈥攂eing consistent about how you reward or discourage your dog for certain behaviors鈥攖he dog no longer has any clue what you want.
Morrow is a backcountry skier, and likes the idea of one day teaching Lyla to ski with her. But dogs can鈥檛 generalize their skills or knowledge the way people can. When she takes Lyla on trail runs, she wants the dog to stick right by her side. But for skiing, moving metal edges around quickly in 3-D space, she doesn鈥檛 want Lyla anywhere near her. 鈥淚 can put in a lot of hours into training a whole new skillset, where I am not having a good time skiing鈥擨 am dog training and I happen to be on skis,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 can develop positional commands and then generalize them to snow and proof her off movement. Or, I can leave her at home until I’m willing to do that.鈥 That鈥檚 the part that most climbers miss.
Few recreationalists seem to realize that they can leave their dog at home for a few hours while they do their outdoor sport. If you can鈥檛 for fear of what the dog might do, why would the dog behave any better at the crag?
Dogs Aren’t Just a Nuisance, They’re an Ecological Disaster
The town of Alta, where I used to live, has one of the strictest dog policies around. That鈥檚 because Little Cottonwood Canyon is an important watershed for Salt Lake City, and dog poop can poison the water supply. 鈥淔eces from dogs and other domesticated animals are washed into streams and tributaries of the watershed,鈥 reads a statement from the Town of Alta. 鈥淭hese streams and tributaries feed directly to your drinking water tap. In fact, it can take less than 24 hours for water you see in a stream high in the watershed to be treated and reach your drinking water faucet in the Salt Lake Valley.鈥
Some of the best climbing in the nation sits in gorges cut by rivers. The water that runs through the Owens River Gorge, a world-class climbing destination near my house, supplies one third of the tap water for Los Angeles. The Bishop climbing rangers about climbers not picking up after their dogs. Along with being a source for all kinds of worms and parasites, leaving dog poop on private land鈥攍ike the popular Happy and Sad Boulders, which sit across the gorge and whose parking lots are owned by the local water and power utilities鈥攃an lead to landowners revoking access.
鈥淏ut my dog is so good!鈥 I hear you. But just because you have a good dog鈥攚hich in this case would have to mean a dog that鈥檚 so lazy it will fall asleep the moment you arrive at the crag and not wake until the moment you leave鈥攄oesn鈥檛 mean there is any reason to bring it along. Building a well-rounded adventure dog that can be well behaved in a variety of environments takes many thousands of hours, hard work, and a steely commitment to a consistent regimen. To be honest, it’s far more work than most anyone will put in. That’s the reason that I, a dog lover who climbs and skis, will not adopt a pet until I know I’m ready to put in the work. So please, do me, my friends, the soil, water quality, and serenity of the great outdoors a favor and leave your dog at home.