Mountaineers Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler first proved that humans could climb to听the top of Mount Everest without using supplemental oxygen in 1978. But as of 2019, only 208 individuals听have ever achieved this feat鈥2.1 percent of the more than 10,000 people听to reach earth鈥檚 tallest听peak. Only one,听, a Nepali听climber known as the Snow Leopard, has pulled it off in winter.
But these exclusive clubs might soon have more听members, thanks to climate change.听
As the world becomes hotter, the air pressure around Mount Everest is increasing, according to a 听published in the journal iScience. As air molecules heat up, they gain more energy and move around faster, creating more pressure and density and bringing the oxygen molecules closer together. Meaning:听the higher the听air pressure, the more oxygen there is to breathe there,听even at Everest鈥檚 29,029-foot summit.听The findings are part of a 2019听National Geographic expedition that studied听climate impacts on the Himalayas.
With an average global temperature听two听degrees Celsius (or 3.6听degrees Fahrenheit) warmer than that of听preindustrial times鈥攖he marker听when many climate scientists project we鈥檒l see more dangerous climate-change impacts鈥攁ir pressure is expected to increase a person鈥檚 maximum oxygen uptake by up to 4.9 percent at the top of Everest, according to the study. 鈥淚t鈥檚听like being lower in the atmosphere,鈥 says听the study鈥檚 lead author, Tom Matthews, a climate scientist at Loughborough University in the United Kingdom.
Summiting Everest without supplemental oxygen is incredibly risky. 鈥淲e always like to joke that you鈥檙e taking ten听steps per breath when you鈥檙e using oxygen,鈥 says听Peter Athans, a world-renowned high-altitude climber who was involved in the National Geographic expedition. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e not using oxygen, it鈥檚 more like ten听breaths per step.鈥
Even the simplest tasks can be exhausting at that elevation, says Sandra Elvin, who coordinated the 2019 trip.听Climbers become hypersensitive to headaches, are more susceptible to frostbite and hypothermia, and have greater difficulty making decisions.听
All of these risks are only amplified during the winter. Not only is the air pressure lower (on average it鈥檚 5 percent lower at the summit during the听winter compared to its听highest point during summer monsoon season), but freezing temperatures and high winds from the jet stream that听engulf听the mountain can make the climb nearly impossible.听
That鈥檚 why most people who reach the summit without supplemental oxygen听(nearly 82 percent, according to the study) do so in the pre-monsoon month of May, the most popular time of year on Everest, a result of听the higher air pressure and听warmer, less windy conditions. October, after the summer rains subside, has historically been the next most successful time to make such an attempt. Soon, however, climbers may be able to tackle this challenge in the wintertime as well.听
As the study found, some of the most dramatic increases in air pressure are expected during this harsh season. If temperatures rise to the 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit mark, breathing in听this extra oxygen during the winter could feel equivalent to shaving off nearly 118 meters鈥387 feet鈥攆rom your climb.听鈥淵ou can pick a day that makes it feel like you鈥檙e climbing in spring,鈥 Matthews says. 鈥淚t doesn鈥檛 have to be a difficult winter ascent in terms of oxygen availability.鈥
New climbers forgoing extra oxygen鈥攂oth in the winter and the spring鈥攚ould be joining a subset of climbers who each have their own philosophy on oxygen-less climbs. 鈥淵ou need motivation, you need something special, you need to do it for yourself,鈥 says听Spanish alpinist听Alex Txikon, who last year attempted to summit Everest during the winter without supplemental oxygen before being beaten back by bad storms. But, he admonishes, climbers shouldn鈥檛 try to break records for the sake of it. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not something you do to become famous,鈥 he says. 鈥淭he first rule is not to destroy your career, your life, just because of the ego.鈥
In addition to increased oxygen, the shifting seasons in a warmer world are further opening up opportunities to summit听Everest. When Athans first started climbing in the early 1980s, the winter season began in October. These days, he says, the monsoon season is extending and the traditional fall season is now starting later. 鈥淲e鈥檝e frequently seen in recent years that听late November and December can be excellent times to climb,鈥 he says. During the听two-month-long National Geographic听expedition, Matthews听helped install the 听on Mount Everest;听sitting at 27,650 feet, it听will听provide听precise听forecasts that can be of help to those planing an听ascent.听
There is the chance听that better forecasts and seemingly more favorable conditions could spur riskier听behavior on the mountain, according to Matthews. Having more specific weather information from the station high on听Everest听could create a sense of safety that might cause听climbers to miscalculate other critical details, like the amount of time the ascent听might take or how much bad weather听they can听endure. Still, Matthews says,听鈥淚t鈥檚听the world鈥檚 best climbers that are at the absolute forefront of their profession, that are trying to do this in the first place, and I think really what this does is it helps fine-tune those preparations.鈥澨
Panuru Sherpa, cofounder and executive director of Xtreme Climbers Treks and Expeditions, says听he has noticed a change in Everest鈥檚 air pressure and oxygen content in his 30 years of climbing (and ). But according to him, these factors听alone aren鈥檛听enough to make the mountain easier to overcome; climate change is also bringing with it new difficulties:听Glaciers are shifting and shrinking.听More crevasses are appearing higher up the mountain. The notorious Khumbu Icefall could become more treacherous to pass. And , making it harder to scramble up as snowpack dwindles. Climate change, says Panuru, has definitely made it 鈥渕ore challenging and more dangerous to climb Everest.鈥
Most experts agree. The final stretch to the summit might be a bit easier these days, says听Athans, while the bottom half of the mountain could become trickier to navigate. But听he says听that鈥檚 just 鈥渢he challenge of mountaineering鈥攂eing able to adapt to your environment, to be able to deal with whatever it throws at you.鈥