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Conner鈥檚 ascent marks the sixth overall, and by far the youngest, free ascent of the line.
Conner鈥檚 ascent marks the sixth overall, and by far the youngest, free ascent of the line. (Photo: Jim Herson)

This 15-Year-Old Just Free-Climbed the Nose

Connor Herson makes sixth all-free ascent of the world's most famous big wall

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Conner鈥檚 ascent marks the sixth overall, and by far the youngest, free ascent of the line.
(Photo: Jim Herson)

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Over the course of three days starting on November 17,聽15-year-old Connor Herson freed聽, a sweeping polished line of piton scarred聽cracks and face climbing, with the support of his father, Jim.

Thousands of teams have aid-climbed the Nose over the years, but聽a free ascent鈥攚here gear is used for protection聽but not for upward progression鈥攊s extremely rare. Connor鈥檚 ascent marks the sixth overall, and by far the youngest, free ascent of the line.

Freeing the Nose聽is difficult because of its 3,000-foot length and steepness. Two cryptic sections make up the crux. The Great Roof, pitch number 21 of 31, requires shoving one鈥檚 fingertips under the bottom of a 20-foot right-traversing feature. This vertical section offers few footholds, forcing the climber to paste the front of their climbing shoes onto fingernail edges on the face. The even more difficult Changing Corners comes a few pitches higher, where the wall steepens and where many of the world鈥檚 best climbers have failed. Lynn Hill, who in 1993 became the first person to free climb the Nose, named the sequence required to get through here 鈥渢he Houdini.鈥

Tommy Caldwell and his then wife Beth Rodden became the second and third to free the Nose when they completed it in 2005.

Connor鈥檚 father, Jim, is a robotics engineer out of Silicon Valley with 30 years of experience climbing big walls in Yosemite. He鈥檚 held speed records on both El Cap (including the Nose) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome. He鈥檚 also freed El Cap鈥檚 Salath茅 Wall (but not in a continuous push). Connor鈥檚 mother, Anne Smith, is also a climber and works as a software engineering manager. Connor鈥檚 sister Kara, 20, also climbs and did Half Dome in a day with her father in winter at age 12 and the Nose in a day at age 14.

Kara and Connor鈥檚 first big wall was the 2,000-foot-tall聽 on Half Dome,聽which they climbed with their father before they were teenagers.

Connor鈥檚 free ascent of the Nose with his father鈥檚 help was bittersweet. The two dedicated the climb to their friends Tim Klein and Jason Wells,聽聽in an accident on El Cap.

鈥淗ere we are at the top of the Captain,鈥 says Jim, off camera, in a phone video he recorded at the top. 鈥淐onnor, what did you just do?鈥

鈥淚 just freed the Nose,鈥 Connor says, a bit bashfully.

鈥淕ood job, man,鈥 Jim says. 鈥淲as it hard? Was it fun?鈥

鈥淵eah,鈥 Connor says, 鈥渋t鈥檚 a good route.鈥

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