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Dried kokum turns water dark red with a tart and fruity taste, and could help fight inflammation.
Dried kokum turns water dark red with a tart and fruity taste, and could help fight inflammation. (Photo: Sant)

Kokum Is the Indian Superfruit That Could Help You Recover Faster

Unpacking the buzz around the latest performance food

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(Photo: Sant)

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Dried kokum looks like bits of leather, a pile of brown husks that rattle around in the bag. Drop a few pieces into a water bottle, however, and they'll slowly stain the contents a dark red, like a natural flavor tab.

It鈥檚 almost unknown in the states, but that brew鈥攖art and fruity, almost like watered-down sour cherry juice鈥攎ight just be a boon to athletes looking to bounce back from hard training sessions. And if , a startup from Chicago, has its way, you鈥檒l be adding it to your water bottle before too long.

Kokum, the fruit of the garcinia indica tree, has been used for centuries on India鈥檚 west coast to treat digestive issues and heat exposure. To this day, kokum sherbet, a sweetened infusion made with the fruit, is a popular hot-weather drink in the region.

Kim LaPaglia, the founder of Sant, first encountered the fruit on a trip to Mumbai. While the fruit was common there, she quickly discovered that it was all but unknown in other parts of the country. “When I would travel to the north of India, no one knew what it was,鈥 says LaPaglia. When it came time to return to the U.S., LaPaglia left her belongings in India and packed her suitcases full of kokum instead.聽

鈥淜okum聽has always been a part of our traditional medicine,鈥 says biologist聽Vandana聽Panda. 鈥淧eople actually聽give a syrup of聽kokum聽to alcohol intoxicated individuals to protect the liver.鈥

Most people in the U.S. have probably never heard of Garcinia indica, but its close relative, garcinia cambogia, has earned a degree of infamy here in the states. Also known as the Malabar tamarind, garcinia cambogia landed in the spotlight in 2012, when pop-health guru Dr. Oz began promoting extracts made from the plant as a natural weight-loss supplement. It鈥檚 still a regular sight on the shelves of health-food and vitamin shops around the country.

There鈥檚 one problem however: garcinia cambogia doesn鈥檛 actually work. In a 2010 meta-analysis of clinical studies done on the supplement, researchers from Oxford鈥檚 Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine found no evidence that hydroxycitric acid, garcinia cambogia鈥檚 active ingredient, encouraged weight loss. 鈥淚t's a waste of money using these supplements,鈥 says Igho Onakpoya, the paper鈥檚 lead author.聽

Garcinia indica, on the other hand, has a growing pile of evidence on its side鈥攖hough not as a diet pill. 鈥淸Kokum] has always been a part of our traditional medicine,鈥 says Vandana Panda, a biologist at the Prin K.M. Kundani College of Pharmacy in Mumbai. 鈥淧eople actually give a syrup of kokum to alcohol intoxicated individuals to protect the liver. We have just scientifically proven and validated these claims.鈥

Panda has spent years researching the effects of kokum on the body. By and large, the results have been encouraging: a pair of studies published in 2013 found that orally-administered kokum extract was effective in treating liver damage from both alcohol abuse and anti-tuberculosis drugs in rats. A 2014 paper concluded that it was successful against ulcers as well.

Most significant to athletes, though, is the team鈥檚 finding that kokum may be effective in fighting inflammation. In another 2013 study, Panda and his colleagues found that rats who consumed an extract of the plant recovered faster from injuries to their paws than a control group. Panda theorizes that kokum鈥檚 high antioxidant content may be responsible for the results.

(Sant)

For Sant, bringing those benefits to American consumers turned out to pose its own set of challenges. In February 2014, LaPaglia returned to India to meet with suppliers, and quickly discovered that most farmers weren鈥檛 nearly large enough to provide her with a reliable supply of kokum.聽

“It's a marginalized crop,鈥 she says. 鈥淭here's no systemic way of growing it there.鈥 Most of what she could find didn鈥檛 meet American standards of hygiene, either: Indian kokum is typically sun-dried in the street.聽

LaPaglia鈥檚 planned three-week trip stretched into three months as she struggled to build Sant鈥檚 supply chain. With help from a local non-profit, LaPaglia eventually connected with four kokum-growing villages in the region that could provide the product she needed. (LaPaglia declined to provide the names of the villages, citing competition, but she would say that they were in 鈥渟outhern Maharastra.鈥)

With its first harvests in, a bag of Sant鈥檚 kokum will run consumers $10 for a fifty-gram pouch; that works out to about 30 cents a serving, depending on how many times they reinfuse the fruit. The company offers subscriptions as well: $8 for a bag per month.

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