The of Seattle brewery by Anheuser-Busch came as a shock to those in the beer world. Not only does Elysian make a brew emblazoned with the tagline 鈥渃orporate beer still sucks,鈥 but brewery co-owner Dick Cantwell had been a prominent voice for independence in the craft brew movement. He penned the , and in the promo video for the guide he closes by saying: 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not necessarily thinking I鈥檓 going to make the absolute best or the most profitable [brewery], but this is going to be mine.鈥
If a brewery as fiercely independent as Elysian could sell out, the craft brew media moaned, could this mark the beginning of the end of the golden era of craft beer?
And we answer: no. Macro breweries have been attempting to acquire smaller breweries for decades, and while some craft breweries have sold, others have proven to be much more resilient. (It ultimately came out that .)听 CEO Dan Kenary, for example, says that big brewers have approached him several times since he opened in 1986. 鈥淭wenty years ago it was Miller, then Budweiser, then Miller Coors and Heineken. It鈥檚 no secret that these guys have been nosing around.鈥
The real concern from the standpoint of the consumer gazing across the grocery story beer aisle will be distinguishing which beers are of the fierce indie variety and which are the products of multinational corporations. It鈥檚 already tough to tell just by looking at the label, and it鈥檚 only going to get tougher.
For example, most educated drinkers know that is an Anheuser-Busch-created 鈥渃raft beer,鈥 but with the rush of new acquisitions it鈥檚 become harder to keep track of what is craft and what isn鈥檛. , for example, is no longer craft; neither is ; neither is . Oregon鈥檚 was sold to Anheuser-Busch last year and Miller-Coors is a minority owner in Georgia-based .
鈥淚 think customers want to know about authenticity, they want to know who owns the company,鈥 says Kenary. He鈥檚 not aware of a database that lets drinkers check whether a given brewery is run by one devoted guy or a major conglomerate. To make an informed decision at the beer store, you鈥檇 have to follow the beer industry press.
We should expect to hear of at least a few more buyouts while craft beer is booming, but it鈥檚 highly unlikely corporate beer will swallow craft brew in one gulp. 鈥淚t鈥檚 going to be a moment of truth for a lot of people鈥攖hey鈥檙e going to have to think about why they got into the business,鈥 says Kenary. He and his partners changed Harpoon Brewery into an employee-owned company last summer. 鈥淥n my deathbed I don鈥檛 want to think, God I feel so great because I maximized the selling price of Harpoon. I don鈥檛 play golf, I鈥檓 not interested in retiring, and I have 200 full-time and 100 part-time employees that have built their lives around this place. Having X-million dollars in my pocket is not why I did this.鈥
We鈥檒l drink to that鈥攁nd to all the other brewery owners that feel that way.聽