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Bryan Davis' earliest scale prototype during the aging process.
Bryan Davis' earliest scale prototype during the aging process.

The Case for Drinking More Young Whiskey

Aged booze will always rule the top shelf, but a new crop of local distillers thinks youth can be a virtue

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As a booze writer, I鈥檓 supposed to be up for trying everything. But I always had a strict rule against sampling young whiskey, also known as white whiskey or moonshine鈥攊n other words, anything that鈥檚 never touched oak. A few years ago, a white whiskey with notes of stomach acid and antifreeze made its way into my glass. That spirit holds the distinct honor of being the only thing I鈥檝e ever spit on an innocent bystander.

This year, I鈥檓 giving the stuff another shot for two reasons. First, I adore many other unaged spirits. If you鈥檝e ever ordered a silver tequila or a clear rum, you know what I鈥檓 talking about. 鈥淧eople order these spirits all the time without realizing they鈥檙e the down-market version,鈥 says Colin Spoelman, master distiller at in Brooklyn, New York.

Secondly, demand for whiskey is up and for the next few years. Makers didn鈥檛 forecast this demand 15 years ago, and to meet it, some are buying premade whiskey (mostly from the MGPI Distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana) and bottling it with their own label. Others are simply blending 15-year-old booze with newer stuff and quietly redesigning the label so it no longer boasts the whiskey鈥檚 age.

But some distillers are choosing a third option: proudly making unaged whiskey and convincing buyers to fall in love with it. Here鈥檚 why you should drink the stuff鈥攁nd where to start.

It鈥檒l Put More Local Options on Shelves

Innovation is a bold move in an industry that loves tradition. 鈥淏ecause we鈥檝e always done it that way鈥 seems to be the message of every other whiskey marketing campaign. 鈥淧eople are really stuck in the past in the beverage industry,鈥 says David Kyrejko, the founder and master distiller at Brooklyn鈥檚 Arcane Distilling, which, despite its name, is leading the way on modern distilling practices.

Getting into the whiskey business is an expensive endeavor. According to , you鈥檙e looking at $350,000 to $1 million in startup costs for any sort of distillery. And this is before you can even start to age your product. 鈥淭he biggest boon to young whiskey is that it can turn around fast, so new distilleries can pop up and come to market. And new distilleries won鈥檛 need to buy, bottle, and sell from established distilleries for the first five to ten years, as has been common practice,鈥 says Arch Bernard, a longtime New York City bartender and spirits industry insider. 鈥淭his will bring fresh ideas to whiskey.鈥

It Reduces Waste

Most whiskey barrels are made from American white oak, but that lumber source may not be around in a few generations. Although plenty of American white oak currently makes up the canopy (the big trees at the top of the forest), that could change. 鈥淚n many of the Eastern hardwood forests, the understory trees are not oak. They鈥檙e maple and beech,鈥 says Clint Patterson, a forester at Berea College in Kentucky. Those two species grow quickly, outpacing white oak seedlings and crowding out light. This means that the large American oaks we have now may end up being the last of their kind. Even though whiskey barrels make up a tiny portion of logging needs, this is bad news for whiskey makers.

(Juliet Frew/Courtesy of Lost Spirits Distillery)

Barrels can鈥檛 be made out of just any old white oak, either. 鈥淭hey can only use perfectly straight-grained boards, otherwise it鈥檚 too weak,鈥 says Bryan Davis, co-founder of , a Los Angeles鈥揵ased distillery. Traditionally, this has translated to a fair amount of waste, as cooperages discard what won鈥檛 work. But Davis鈥 proprietary process doesn鈥檛 require a barrel at all. It uses wood, but they simply commingle the booze and the wood in a tank, so the shape and strength of the wood doesn鈥檛 matter. Davis now buys scraps from cooperages. 鈥淎t the moment, we鈥檙e a wood-neutral process,鈥 he says, meaning his distillery doesn鈥檛 cut a single additional tree.

You鈥檒l Be a Smarter Taster

There鈥檚 an easy way to fake being a whiskey expert: walk up to the bar and order the oldest bottle you see. 鈥淔or so long, too much focus has been on age as a factor for making whiskey great, when there are so many other factors too,鈥 Spoelman says.

Here鈥檚 the thing: aging can make just about any spirit taste good. Stick a crap whiskey into a barrel for 15 years and鈥攙oila!鈥攄rinkable stuff. But if you don鈥檛 age your spirit, you have to be much more careful about how you manage the distilling process. 鈥淭here are spirit-focused distilleries and aging-focused distilleries,鈥 Spoelman says. The first takes a superior understanding of chemistry to navigate well. The second just takes money and lots of time.

Of course, there鈥檚 no reason to ban aged whiskey, rye, and bourbon from your bar cart. (If you do, please send those bottles to us.) Young whiskey and old can live in harmony, says Bernard. The more you familiarize yourself with both, the more you鈥檒l come to enjoy and understand each one.

Even better news: the stellar young whiskeys of today will be killer aged whiskeys in a decade or two. 鈥淭he best whiskeys are definitely yet to come,鈥 says Spoelman.

They Don鈥檛 Taste as Bad as You Think

Young whiskey can take on a range of flavor notes, depending on the ingredients it鈥檚 made from. When whiskey is distilled from corn, you鈥檒l often get a sip that deceptively tastes like fresh summer corn on the cob or even roasted popcorn. When it鈥檚 made from barley, you鈥檒l get caramel finishes and hints of malt. Young whiskey made from beer often has hoppy notes, which is actually nicer than it sounds. The last few times I鈥檝e tasted young whiskeys, there were no spit takes鈥攊nstead, I鈥檝e been surprised by the firepower of some and the smoothness of others.

Here are the most interesting young whiskeys to taste first.

Lost Spirits

Co-founder Bryan Davis taught himself chemistry to save money on his whiskey startup in 2010. Within five years, he was making spirits that have the same chemical signature as aged booze but are , not years.

Try It: Lost Spirits鈥 Abomination is a heavily peated malt. It鈥檚 set to hit shelves any day now, and you can preorder it .

(David Kyrejko)

Arcane Distilling

Arcane Distilling鈥檚 , distilled from beer in a glass-vacuum still, never touches wood. 鈥淚t actually tastes like sawdust if you age it in wood. I tried it as an experiment once,鈥 says Kyrejko. His unaged stuff is 鈥渢ransparent, delicate, smooth. You can taste the hops and the malt in it, but the character is totally different from the beer it was made from,鈥 says Bernard.

Try It: Lone Wolf is tough to find outside New York City, but if you see a bottle, which retails for $75, grab it. What you taste from month to month might vary鈥擪yrejko teams up with local New York brewers to distill different local beers into Lone Wolf.

King鈥檚 County Distillery Moonshine

This is nothing like the stuff your friend tried making in a homemade still in college. Made from New York鈥揼rown corn and English- and Scottish-grown barley, it鈥檚 smooth and drinkable neat but also lovely in a cocktail.

Try It: King鈥檚 County is currently available in . A 375-milliliter bottle goes for $35.

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