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Chris Cosentino loves riding just as much as he does cooking.
Chris Cosentino loves riding just as much as he does cooking. (Photo: Jonathan Herre)

Chef Chris Cosentino Finds Balance on His Bike

The demands of being a celebrity chef forced the former professional mountain biker to abandon the sport completely, but he's back in the saddle now

Published: 
Chris Cosentino loves riding just as much as he does cooking.
(Photo: Jonathan Herre)

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Chris Cosentino hits me with a philosophical gem right out of the gate:听鈥淭here are three things you need to know how to do in life鈥攔ide a bike, shift a car, and swim.鈥

We鈥檙e maybe two minutes into our conversation when he drops this bit of wisdom on me, explaining how someone can save a life or get a job with those three skills. He鈥檚 probably right, but I think it鈥檚 an odd skill set for Cosentino to focus on considering his own success is .

The San Francisco鈥揵ased owner of four restaurantsticks off all the requirements for celebrity-chef status:听he has TV appearances, a cookbook, and multiple critically acclaimed restaurants culinary establishments听under his belt. The man was even turned into a character in a Wolverine comic book and . But Cosentino also knows his way around a bicycle, having spent听the better part of his twenties听as a professional mountain biker who made a name for himself during the rise of the 24-hour mountain-bike-race craze in the mid-90s.

Biking and cooking have tugged Cosentino in different directions during various periods of his life, and at one point, he completely abandoned the bicycle altogether. But now, at 47, Cosentino has found a way to balance his passions. He鈥檚 opening a new restaurant in Houston听and releasing a new energy bar, . He鈥檚 also riding his bike like crazy, training hard听and entering gravel, road, and mountain-bike races with support from a variety of sponsors, like and .

鈥淭here was a long period when I wasn鈥檛 riding bikes,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淎 decade where I hunkered down and worked nonstop, focusing on my career. I opened restaurants, I started doing TV and all that other crap. I wasn鈥檛 thinking clear, and I flushed cycling out of my life. I was constantly running, and I was coming unglued.鈥

Things changed several years ago when Cosentino joined听, a group of kitchen pros who banded together to get healthy while raising money to feed kids in need. Chefs Cycle has grown from a couple of smallevents on opposite sides of the country to a massive three-day, 300-mile ride that attracts more than 200 chefs and raises $2 million every summer. On a personal level, the event gave Cosentino a goal to work toward.听鈥淚t brought me back to cycling and the mental freedom that comes from being on the bike,鈥 he says.

As a professional cyclist, Cosentino had a knack for suffering. He competed in some of the toughest 24-hour mountain-bike races in the country, racing solo through the night on a singlespeed. His first race was 24 Hours of Canaan, a West Virginia event that was so brutally technical and muddy that some racers 鈥渞ode鈥 tiny kid鈥檚 cruisers so they could just carry their bikes on their shoulders and run the race on foot. His racing career probably peaked at Montezuma鈥檚 Revenge, a particularly gnarly race in Colorado鈥檚 Summit County that included route finding and climbing a fourteener in the middle of the night. Cosentino was the first singlespeeder ever to finish that race, even though he听had to spend two weeks preriding sections of the course with the race director before he was given a green light to compete without gears.

鈥淚 was racing for a living, and on a pro team, but I was basically living in my car,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淚 think I made a total of $500 as a mountain biker.鈥

But 鈥減rofessional mountain biker鈥 was more of a detour for Cosentino anyway. Cooking was always his first love. He only found cycling by accident, after a fall in the kitchen during culinary school required extensive knee surgery and a rehab stint on the bike. He loved it and started riding everywhere, commuting to work on a fixed-gear singlespeed that he said was theftproof because nobody could figure out how to ride it. He liked the simplicity of those bikes because, as he puts it, 鈥渟hifting sucks because of my dyslexia. I was always mis-shifting.鈥

During the peak of his biking career, Cosentino raced in seven different 24-hour competitions in a single season, including Montezuma鈥檚 Revenge and 24 Hours of Tahoe. He often shared a pit with adventure-bike legend and started working with a coach, endurance superstar Chris Eatough. He was all set to race the in Alaska when he found out his wife was pregnant, and that was it.

鈥淚 thought, I can鈥檛 be riding my bike in Alaska in February when I鈥檓 gonna have a kid in January,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淲hat happens if I鈥檓 stupid and get eaten?听I sold all my gear and focused on my career and family.鈥

And that career has gone extremely well. His first restaurant, Incanto, helped pioneer the whole-animal movement that makes use of the entire creature. Today听his signature restaurant, Cockscomb,听in San Francisco, continues that head-to-tail听obsession with meat. He also has Jackrabbit, a raw bar that features听house-cured cuts, in Portland, Oregon, and Acacia House, in Saint Helena, California, which focuses on ingredients and wine culled from the surrounding Napa Valley. Along the way, Cosentino won the fourth season of Top Chef Masters. His cookbook, , was nominated for a James Beard award in 2018. His newest restaurant, called Rosalie, will focus on 鈥渞ed-sauce Italian鈥 and pull from his great-grandmother鈥檚 recipes.

Each of Cosentino鈥檚 restaurants takes a different approach to food, from grandma鈥檚 spaghetti to seafood towers harvested from Oregon鈥檚 coast, but if the chef is best known for one thing, it would probably be preparing offal, the organs of the animal that most Americans discard altogether. While Cosentino doesn鈥檛 like getting pigeonholed as the 鈥渃hef who cooks with guts,鈥 he believes听offal should be a part of everyone鈥檚 menu, especially athletes.

鈥淚t鈥檚 the right way to work with animals and meat, so it should be part of an everyday kitchen,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淎nd if you鈥檙e an athlete looking for protein or creatine or iron, why not look for it in heart meat or liver instead of a supplement?鈥

Just don鈥檛 get carried away eating beef hearts after every ride.听鈥淚f I ate calf livers three meals a day, it wouldn鈥檛 be healthy, but too much of anything is bad for you,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淚f you balance your life and your choices, you鈥檒l do OK. I鈥檓 far from a perfect dad, chef, or cyclist, but I try to grow every day.鈥

Cosentino survived on Swedish Fish when he was racing in the nineties, but now听he has a more refined meal after a big ride: falafel with extra hot sauce and eggplant.听鈥淚 found that it hits all the targets, with enough spice and acidity, and it鈥檚 filling without being a gut bomb. You put in a lot of effort during the ride, so your body isn鈥檛 digesting as well as it wants to after you鈥檙e done.鈥

A desire to find balance has led Cosentino back to the bicycle. He has a trio of custom bikes from titanium-frame wizard Jeremy Sycip, and he works with a coach from Carmichael Training Systems to stay strong. This year听he鈥檚 already done three , the 300-mile Chef Cycle, his own road event through Napa Valley wine country called , and is set to ride in September. He鈥檚 also looking forward to racing the 听for the first time in his career, and he recently created that goes from San Francisco听deep into Marin County, hitting a few of his favorite food spots along the way.

Cosentino admits he doesn鈥檛 get to ride as much as he鈥檇 like to, especially when he travels, but he says the harmony between work and cycling is there in a way that it鈥檚 never been听before.

鈥淐ooking is about being hyperfocused on the moment and making someone smile,鈥 Cosentino says. 鈥淏ut cycling is like being a kid again. Remember when you got to leave your house and ride to your friend鈥檚 house down the street? Remember that freedom? That鈥檚 what cycling is for me.鈥

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