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The American cabin is the perfect home base.
The American cabin is the perfect home base. (David Hanson/Aurora )

An Ode to the Imperfect, 21st-Century American Cabin

We all dream of buying that secluded wilderness retreat. But what does it have to offer when the seclusion and wilderness turn out to be mostly in our imagination? Actually, a lot.

Published: 
The American cabin is the perfect home base.
(Photo: David Hanson/Aurora )

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At the end of 2015,听I had this idea that I鈥檇 toss away my life. Give up my job, break my apartment lease, disconnect my phone. I鈥檇 sell my possessions, stuff what I could into a pack, and disappear into the wilderness鈥攁way from the world forever.

This, ultimately, terrified me. What would I do about money? Where would my cat go? Could greatness be felt in a place where it was not seen? I wondered whether anyone would miss me.听

For a long time, perhaps an occupational hazard as a writer, I鈥檝e felt the need to separate entirely from the city where I'd lived for almost all my life. I had this deep love for the North Country. It was a place I鈥檇 known intimately in my youth. The smell of pine needles and late-October frost, the yowl of a loon scuttling across the lake, brought for me the same fulfillment as any professional achievement听in the city. It is that familiar loss felt on returning from vacation, wanting to be where we are not. Every time I returned from upstate to the city, I felt that I had left home and was lost in a blight of slate-grey, an unnatural silhouette鈥攈eld against my will.

Wood splintered off the siding. The porch was all but rotted. This was no frontiers cabin.

People made me feel claustrophobic and I couldn鈥檛 remember the last time I鈥檇 heard birds outside my window. I also felt like I wasn鈥檛 getting enough work done: my phone buzzed too often, I found myself aimlessly switching between browser tabs.

Perhaps, I thought to myself, I鈥檒l buy a cabin.

The phone rang twice and Pete answered. He was on the western fringe of the Adirondack Park. He was a realtor, selling hunting lodges, cabins, land. I鈥檇 seen a listing online and said I鈥檇 like to place an offer on a cabin.

鈥淒o you want to come see the property first?鈥 he asked.

鈥淣ope,鈥 I said, 鈥淣o, thank you.鈥

The listing and photos online were听enough for me: a hunting cabin, abutting state forest, on about five acres.听

鈥淚s it secluded? I mean, really secluded?鈥 I asked, as if there are degrees of seclusion.

鈥淚f you don鈥檛 want to see anyone for weeks,鈥 he said, 鈥渢his is the place.鈥

Still having never set foot on the land or seen the cabin, I closed on it in January. It would be some time before I could make it out to my land. Until the snow melted, without the use of snowshoes, the cabin was virtually unreachable.

When finally I went to inspect the cabin in spring, I came to pass a . The homes are set in a cleared field of manicured grass. Where the logs meet at the corners听and up near the roof gables听there is the distinct fit of Lincoln Logs: perfectly mated and set atop one another, the notches machine-fitted. The roofs are sometimes constructed of a lurid green, stamped metal. Some have tarpaper tiling. They are austere and inviting. But they aren't听.For me, a true cabin is swaddled in romance: a听wilting little structure, covered by a mossy roof, a battered tin stove pipe etching its way skyward, the whole of the home and its accouterments鈥攖he axe stuck in a chopping block, the saw hanging from a post near the front door, a lantern to light the way鈥攎ade perfect by its imperfections. It's a way-station, a conduit to your old life and听into the wild.

Though the origins of the cabin structure are unknown, they are believed to be the expression of American architecture, a product of Manifest Destiny and westward expansion. The designs and utilities found within the earliest, modest log cabins were adopted from听鈥擲wedes and Finns who found themselves settling along the Delaware Valley.

These were crude homes. Hacked from virgin timbers, these cabins were laid out in small squares, 15-by-15 feet, sometimes bigger, often smaller, on land cleared by families passing听through.听They were meant to be temporary. The notches were carved out with an axe, and logs were hoisted atop one another to form the walls of the family dwelling. There were no windows, and sometimes only a small loft for sleeping. Light came from the fireplace.

Long associated with the hermit or recluse, the ancestral roots of a solitary cabin dwelling did not 鈥渁ttenuate the American family,鈥 as C.A.听Weslager听wrote in听The Log Cabin in America听in the 1960s.听It instead 鈥渃ontributed to its vitality and integrity.鈥 The log cabin also became a communal project: those who could help, did. And without serious plans, a cabin could rise from local hardwoods within a week or two. Then the family moved in.

On my drive, I may have passed many of these traditional cabins without knowing it, the last existing log and wood cabins obscured now by new construction, hidden in plan view. Travel through the North Country, the Finger Lakes听or Tug Hill regions, and know that if you look closely enough you may discern an old log home, covered now in wood shingles and aluminum siding, obscuring a verdant history.听

By all definitions, the cabin I鈥檇 bought and was driving toward wasn鈥檛 much more a听“true cabin” than the shiny Lincoln Log homes for sale off exit 20.听It wasn鈥檛 hewn听from logs, and it wasn鈥檛 originally built by settlers. But it was remote, it had no plumbing or electricity, and, for the purpose听of seclusion, it would resemble the spaces in which families, centuries before, used as stopping grounds before moving west.听

When I finally听reached the cabin, I surveyed the land. Toppled cedar and hemlock. Tall weeds and grass slithered up the sides of the building, which had been constructed sometime after the millennium. The tarpaper roof had holes visible from the outside. Wood splintered off the siding. The porch was all but rotted. This was no soulless Log Homes cabin, but it wasn't a听frontiers cabin,听either.

The American cabin, a remote parcel that echoes our ancestral passages, is the perfect听homebase听on which to build those connections.

Then the chainsaws stared. Followed by a lawn mower. An axe splitting wood. I could not escape the world. Somehow听it had followed me.

My legs hung over the porch where I sat, listening as the clamor of workers and hunters, elsewhere in the woods, simmered and died as night approached. It was only quiet for some while. Then laughter, glasses clinking, beer cans crunching. Howls and giggles came from every direction.

Damn you, Pete, I thought. I was heated. I wanted seclusion. I was set to call him the next morning, as soon as I regained cellular service. But what I didn鈥檛 know then was that the American Cabin was the essence of this familial bonding. That these people, like me, were escaping the same tired,听vexing technologies and social abrasions we faced in urban living.

The log cabin had always been a product听of community cooperation. As Alexis de Tocqueville once wrote of his time in a stranger鈥檚 cabin on the听frontier, 鈥淭he whole family comes to seek shelter of an evening in the single room which it contains. This dwelling forms as it were a little world of its own. 鈥 A hundred paces beyond it the everlasting forest stretches its shade around it and solitude begins again.鈥

Up here听in the North Country, we call these places听camps. I understood why, initially,听that meant a base camp for hunting. But really, it鈥檚 much more than that,听and it echoes a longstanding American tradition.听First, it enables us to hunker down before we move forward鈥攚hether that be on a hunt听or revitalized after a听weekend听before returning to work.听Second, the confines and intimate space of a cabin harbor deeper connections to friends and family.听

Large cities, though densely-populated, imbue anonymity. Far as I can tell, the proximity of city life is not one of intimacy听but inherent distance. You can't be tuned into a place or person that shuffles past. The cabin slows everything into knotted hardwood and fosters deeper fellowship鈥攖he kind of fellowship I'd missed in听the humdrum of urban life.听

In the morning, I woke to the frost and cozy fog that made the forest surrounding the cabin both mythical and terrifying. I listened for others but heard none, and became excited by the notion that I could bring friends and family here. I started to see the space differently: over there, a fire pit; some Adirondack chairs for every one; a hammock for my sister; a guitar for anyone who knows how to play.

It wasn鈥檛 solitude I was seeking. Not exactly. Instead what we often want in returning to the woods, a place of unencumbered solitude and holistic melodies, is the chance to be alone,听together. To share in each other鈥檚 presence, rather than juggle the distractions of workaday life. The American cabin, a remote parcel that echoes our ancestral passages, is the perfect home base on which to build those connections.

I moseyed听downstairs, ascending the ladder from the loft. I made a cup of coffee, using the wood-burning stove which fiercely crackled as it awakened. I was met by several field mice, scuttling about the upstairs loft, munching leftover tortillas.听

I was not displeased by the intrusion. I welcomed them听and watched them play for hours.

works and writes for The New York Times.

From 国产吃瓜黑料 Magazine, November 2016
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Lead Photo: David Hanson/Aurora

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