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Larry Olmsted's new book is equal parts foodie chronicle and investigative expos茅.
Larry Olmsted's new book is equal parts foodie chronicle and investigative expos茅. (Hannah McCaughey)

Is Your Olive Oil Really Olive Oil?

Larry Olmsted's new book reveals the surprising truth about counterfeit foods.

Published: 
Larry Olmsted's new book is equal parts foodie chronicle and investigative expos茅.
(Photo: Hannah McCaughey)

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A decade ago, scary books about food were trendy. Eric Schlosser鈥檚 taught us about the nasty business of greasy chain fare, while Michael Pollan鈥檚 examined industrial production. At the time, those books were necessary. The disconnect between factory and plate was far greater than it is now. These days most consumers have a better understanding of food. Still, much of what we think of as quality actually isn鈥檛.聽

Larry Olmsted鈥檚 聽($28, Algonquin) turns the lens on the way products are sold and the obfuscation still present in the industry. The book is equal parts foodie chronicle and investigative聽
expos茅. Olmsted, a travel writer by trade, 颅reveals some of the worst culprits of faked goods鈥攚ine, tea, and seafood鈥攙ia firsthand nar颅rative reporting. These include everything from 颅rip-offs of specialties like extra-virgin olive oil and Kobe beef to dangerous additives like sawdust and twigs. To temper the muckraking, Olmsted includes recipes that feature real food at the end of each chapter. (Try our favorite below.)聽

Unlike the works of Pollan and Schlosser, Real Food/Fake Food is less treatise than guidebook, showing readers how to navigate an increasingly complex food system. We spoke with Olmsted to get the SparkNotes.聽

Meat Is Complicated聽

Grass-fed beef is better for you than grain-fed, but as Olmsted explains, a lot of the beef sold as grass-fed is actually finished on grain. If you鈥檙e unsure how your beef is finished, Olmsted recommends buying bison, which is always raised free-range, and New Zealand lamb, which is all grass-finished.

True Olive Oil Is Harvested聽

Extra-virgin olive oil is high in antioxidants聽and aids with digestion. Unfortunately, a lot of what Americans consume isn鈥檛 extra-virgin at all. Some reports estimate that 80 percent of EVOO doesn鈥檛 qualify鈥攊t鈥檚 often diluted with less expensive or lower-grade olive oil, or with old oil that wouldn鈥檛 pass the extra-virgin standard after bottling. The easiest way to tell if your olive oil is extra-virgin is to look for a harvest date. Also, Chile and Australia have the strictest standards for weeding out adulteration.聽

Get Real

Only Parmigiano-Reggiano from the town of Parma, which European law classifies as a 鈥減rotected designation of origin,鈥 qualifies as the cheese you think you know. Everything else is a crude imitation. Wine, balsamic vinegar, and hundreds of other specialty foods also fall prey to mislabeling, duplicitous marketing, or poor production. But the authentic stuff, when you can find it, is amazing.

Restaurants Lie

Organic, free-range, natural鈥攖hese terms are backed by USDA and FDA regulations聽to ensure the integrity of various storebought foods. Restaurant fare, how颅ever, is 鈥渁lmost entirely absolved of these protections,鈥 says Olmsted. 鈥淲hatever adjec颅tives they use can be lies without breaking any laws.鈥 And high-end restaurants are just as likely to defraud you as a fast-food joint.聽Unfortunately, the best advice Olmsted is able to give: 鈥淏e skeptical.鈥

Never Eat Shrimp

It鈥檚 the most popular seafood in the United States, but it鈥檚 also one of the nastiest things you can eat. 鈥淭he vast major颅ity of the shrimp we get is farmed and imported, of nebulous geographic origin, and very likely raised in disgusting conditions with lots of drugs that aren鈥檛 approved for human consumption,鈥 Olmsted says.聽

Bistecca聽alla聽Fiorentina Recipe

A classic Tuscan dish. Florentines will insist it requires a steak from the local聽Chianina聽cattle breed, but any good聽beef will go with any great olive oil.

Serves 2 to 4
  1. Pick out a quality two- or three-pound, two-inch-thick porterhouse or 颅T-bone聽steak. Let it come to room temperature for 45 to 60 minutes.
  2. While preheating the grill to high, season the steak liberally with coarse sea salt and fresh-ground pepper.
  3. Cook for five minutes on each side for rare (the Tuscan way) or seven to eight minutes per side for medium-rare to medium. The outside should be well crusted.
  4. Slice both sides of the steak off the center bone, then carve into perpendicular slices, about聽a half-inch thick.
  5. Drizzle generously with extra-颅virgin olive oil (Olmsted likes聽) and serve.
From 国产吃瓜黑料 Magazine, July 2016 Lead Photo: Hannah McCaughey

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