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Beck Weathers in Kathmandu on May 13, 1996.
Beck Weathers in Kathmandu on May 13, 1996. (Photo: AP)

The Survivor Behind Hollywood’s New Everest Flick

With a blockbuster film about the deadly storm in the works, we spoke with one of the climbers who made it out alive about the tragedy

Published: 
Seaborne Beck Weathers of Dallas, Texas, an American survivor of the Swedish Expedition, is flown to Katmandu Monday, May 13, 1996 by a rescue helicopter from Mt. Everest. Eight climbers still remained missing in unsurvivable conditions on the 29,028-foot (8,848 meters) mountain.  Weathers suffered from facial burns from high winds and severe frostbite on both hands. (AP Photo/Binod Joshi)
(Photo: AP)

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When studio executives at聽Universal Pictures were looking for source material for a big-budget adaptation of聽the 1996 storm on Everest that killed eight climbers high on the mountain, they called Beck Weathers.

Weathers, 49 years old at the time, was a client of the late Rob Hall, a well respected New Zealand guide who led a group of mountaineers, including Jon Krakauer, to the summit just before the deadly storm rolled in. Hall, like his fellow guide, Scott Fischer, and several other climbers, became trapped in the storm and died. Weathers lost consciousness on the mountain above Camp IV and was left for dead by his fellow climbers.聽Several hours later, he miraculously regained consciousness, picked himself up, and hiked down to camp, his face caked with ice.

Weathers was airlifted off of the mountain and treated for severe frostbite. He lost his nose, part of his right arm, his fingers on his left hand, and parts of both of his feet. Weathers聽recounts the horror on the mountain and his recovery back in the U.S. in his 2001 book, . The book is聽now the backbone for Universal's latest聽epic,聽Everest, starring Josh Brolin, Jake Gyllenhaal, and Jason Clarke, and聽set for release in September.

In advance of the film, 国产吃瓜黑料 spoke to Weathers about what parts Hollywood got right, what parts it got wrong,聽and how he relates to the tragedy聽nearly 20 years later.

OUTSIDE: Have you been involved in the filmmaking process?
WEATHERS: Not at all. To a certain extent I鈥檓 happy with that. You have no idea if they鈥檙e going to make a really good movie or something that's difficult to be associated with. When they started chatting with me years ago I told the guy when he came to my house, “Godspeed, John Glenn, but I鈥檝e never seen a really good mountaineering film.鈥 They always look like bunch of actors on a ski slope standing around yelling at each other.

Did they do a decent job with this one?
All in all I think they鈥檝e done a really good job. People will be impressed. You can get a great feeling from books but there鈥檚 a lot to be said for being able to see the event and feel it and experience what it was like. I wasn鈥檛 worried that the story wouldn鈥檛 hold up to the big screen, I was worried that the filmmakers wouldn鈥檛 be able to do the story justice.

You're played by Josh Brolin. That's got to be cool.
I really enjoyed Josh鈥檚 acting and depiction of my character. I was pretty stoked when I heard that he鈥檇 accepted playing me in the film since that鈥檚 probably better than I deserve. He鈥檚 also a Texan, which I聽think helps. I got a chance to spend some time with him when I聽went out to L.A. He was very down to earth and enjoyable to be around. My favorite part of his character was that he seemed to be friendly and outgoing, and I聽generally like to approach my life that way. I聽like to think i like people up front unless they give me a reason not to.

And your least favorite part?
Well聽occasionally the writing called for him to be a jerk, and no one particularly cares for that. But all in all I聽was pretty happy with Josh鈥檚 portrayal.

Why do you think it's tough to make a good mountaineering movie?聽
Mountaineering makes moviemaking extremely difficult. On Everest, you鈥檝e got every square inch of your body covered [in cold-weather apparel], and you鈥檙e not standing around chatting with each other. You spend most of the time alone. Everyone might be on fixed lines together but when you start moving higher up on the mountain you have oxygen masks on and no one is talking to each other鈥攜ou couldn鈥檛 talk to each other if you wanted to. That doesn鈥檛 allow for the interaction and development of characters that鈥檚 required to make people care about the characters. You just have to accept that the filmmakers will change some of that, otherwise it would look to the audience like a bunch of piles of laundry moving up a mountain.

鈥淔or me on the mountain, when it came to actually dying鈥擨 had to get up and move or stay there and accept it鈥擨 just really wasn鈥檛 ready.鈥

Are you concerned about the facts of the event making the final cut?
They pointed out to me early on that this is not a documentary, it鈥檚 a movie. As such, they make decisions about what鈥檚 in there, what鈥檚 not, and how to cast the good guy and bad guy. You have to respect their problem of having to make those judgments.

But there are things in there that are jarring for me to see because they are put in there just to advance the story. Some things have been dramatically shifted from what my perception was, but that鈥檚 probably true of everyone鈥檚 perception.

(Courtesy of Beck Weathers)

What kinds of things?
Part of the story in the film is the story from 国产吃瓜黑料 and Into Thin Air, which was about inexperienced climbers who shouldn鈥檛 be on Everest showing up in droves. That鈥檚 pushed a little hard in the film. There鈥檚 an interaction in which I bitch out Rob Hall because we鈥檙e having to wait around, and I tell him, 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 spend this money to stand around at Walmart.鈥 It was obviously put in there to illustrate the rich client showing up unprepared, and I get to be that individual. On a practical basis, if I were to have yelled at Rob I could have expected to get a long walk back to Kathmandu. That wasn鈥檛 exactly our relationship.

They were also a little tough on Scott Fischer. They present him in a somewhat unflattering light. I think that鈥檒l be difficult for [his widow] Jeannie and his family to see. That bothered me. There are things like that. But you have to put it in context. You have to accept that they won鈥檛 make the film in the ways that I saw the event or that other people saw it. It鈥檚 how the screenwriter saw it and how the director puts it together all these years later.

It's been almost 20 years since the event. Why do you think Hollywood has waited this long?
The movie waited around for years because they didn鈥檛 have the technical ability to pull it off. The only film that could give you a real sense of what Everest looks like is the [1998] . That鈥檚 the only one I鈥檝e seen that gives you a sense of the scale and makes it look real. Everything else is just a sheet of white. But nowadays they can render anything. That鈥檚 pretty incredible: it鈥檚 not a mountain, it鈥檚 the mountain.

Isn't it kind of ironic that it takes computer-generated imagery to accurately portray聽of one of the most impressive natural features on Earth?
I understand the deception involved in using the computers and green screens to recreate it but I don鈥檛 think they had any choice. There鈥檚 no way they could possibly have filmed on the mountain. With the number of people that would have to be there and acclimate and have mountaineering experience, moving equipment around would be completely impossible. There鈥檚 no way to physically manage that. On Everest, you鈥檙e physically exhausted鈥攖hat鈥檚 your normal state of being on the mountain.

Were there any parts of the movie that were difficult for you to watch?
Certainly one of the most heart-wrenching parts is the call between Rob and [his widow]聽Jan. You鈥檇 have to be made out of stone not to be moved by that. Also the interactions between Rob and the folks down in Base Camp when they know the storm is coming and that Rob is trapped and that they鈥檙e helpless to alter the course. That鈥檚 pretty difficult to watch.聽

The part of the movie where my wife, Peach, has received the news about me, and she tells our children that their father is never coming home again, that鈥檚 tough. Both Peach and I were pretty seriously moved.

Has your view of the tragedy changed over the years?
As time passes you gain a different perspective on Everest. You get some distance, and life becomes calmer and simpler. At one point, it would have been the most important event in your existence, but that importance fades over time. I鈥檓 certainly a lot more at peace with myself than I was 20 years ago. It seems not that long ago to me.

I've聽worked for a number of years part-time as a keynote speaker. In essence, every time I do a job I relive the event. I think because of that it鈥檚 like my Groundhog Day鈥攊t seems very immediate. So while my life has gotten a lot more mellow, my interaction with the story remains extremely vivid. Surprisingly it still affects me emotionally and viscerally like it happened yesterday.

Do the speaking jobs help you cope?
They reinforce the lesson that comes out of such an experience, which is to understand what鈥檚 important in your life. I love climbing, but I realize that a lot of climbers die young and leave a good-looking corpse. For me on the mountain, when it came to actually dying鈥擨 had to get up and move or stay there and accept it鈥擨 just really wasn鈥檛 ready. That perspective on the importance of the people that you love and those relationships, how that ultimately overrides everything in your existence, is the takeaway I keep with me.

How do you relay that message to people in the audience?
I tell them that my Everest experience, as dramatic as it was, was only three days. The hard part is what you do when you get back home. That鈥檚 when the story really begins. And that part generally is never told.

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