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US鈥檚 hatchery programs and their millions of fishy offspring are not saving salmon, but unwilding them.
US鈥檚 hatchery programs and their millions of fishy offspring are not saving salmon, but unwilding them. (Photo: Courtesy Ben Moon/Patagonia)

‘Artifishal’ Is the Movie for Our Unwilding Times

Patagonia's latest film explores the troubling takeover of fish bred by man

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US鈥檚 hatchery programs and their millions of fishy offspring are not saving salmon, but unwilding them.
(Photo: Courtesy Ben Moon/Patagonia)

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As a kid, I learned to fly-fish聽at a small limestone creek in central Pennsylvania. Its clear waters teemed with rainbow and brown trout, and no wonder鈥攁 few hundred yards away from its banks was a concrete fish hatchery, where the state bred and raised hundreds of thousands of those species to maturity every year, then released them. As I got more into fly-fishing, I volunteered to help stock this stream and others nearby, following behind a tanker truck aslosh with fish, then carrying bucketfuls of trout down to the water before releasing them with a gentle tip. A week or so later, I鈥檇 join hundreds of other anglers in catching most of those fish聽and carrying聽home full stringers of hatchery-raised fish for the grill.

A few years after I went to college, I learned that the hatchery had been closed down聽because it overflowed into the creek during heavy rains. The creek also had to be closed to fishing鈥攖he hatchery鈥檚 overflow polluted the water聽with nitrogen, creating a deadly algae bloom. I was sad, but it was OK鈥擨 had a new spot to fish, Spring Creek, near my classes聽at Penn State. It also had a trout hatchery on its banks.

My experience with fishing and hatcheries is shared by many anglers in the United States, including Josh 鈥淏ones鈥 Murphy, who produced and directed Patagonia鈥檚 latest film, , out on October 30. Murphy studied wildlife and fisheries biology at the University of Vermont, earned a master鈥檚 degree in fisheries, and went on to manage the on-campus hatchery at California鈥檚 Humboldt State University聽before shifting his attention to filmmaking. He got the directing job after Patagonia founder聽Yvon Chouinard聽pitched him the idea of a movie about the backwardness of hatcheries. 鈥淗e said, 鈥榃e are doing a film about the arrogance of man,鈥欌 Murphy recently told me. 鈥淚t was a perfect Yvon-ism.鈥

Suddenly, the human processes Murphy had taken for granted as normal鈥攖he concrete holding pools full of fry and the artificial insemination of millions of eggs鈥攕eemed unnatural, or worse. 鈥淚t all seemed normal when I was working at the hatchery,鈥 Murphy said. 鈥淥nce I started researching for the movie, I was dumbstruck. How did I play a part in this and not recognize the scale and scope? We were putting fish in so that we could take fish out鈥攏ot to make healthy rivers.鈥澛

This is the central thesis of Artifishal, which flips the ideology that both Murphy and I were taught on its head: the United States鈥櫬爃atchery programs and their millions of fishy offspring are not saving salmon, but unwilding them. Paired with the hard facts about salmon populations on the West Coast鈥攊n California, more than 45 percent聽of salmonid species are endangered鈥攊t鈥檚 a powerful argument that hatcheries do not serve nature or fish, but rather humans, and have been an outright disaster for wild salmon and the environment.

The film seems built on Murphy鈥檚 own conversion. It鈥檚 told through a blend of perspectives and watery vignettes: a fisheries manager explains why hatcheries are vital, and we watch as adult salmon are killed by hand and millions of tiny new fish are created by industrial-level artificial insemination, the sperm and eggs blown out of them with an air hose. A writer recounts the early, uninformed history of fish hatcheries in the United States; a biologist explains the 鈥渨ondrous鈥 natural life cycle of salmon聽and how hatchery fish extirpate wild salmon. A Native American explains why his tribe needs hatcheries; other Native Americans explain how hatcheries have made their traditional fish catch untenable. Another biologist unwinds evolutionary forces and fish genetics聽and explains how hatcheries circumvent nature鈥檚 genius.聽

How did I play a part in this and not recognize the scale and scope? We were putting fish in so that we could take fish out鈥攏ot to make healthy rivers.

鈥淎t first I thought it would be an easy story to tell, and that people would have very well-developed聽pros and cons, and there would be good guys and bad guys,鈥 Murphy told me. 鈥淚 thought there would be so much black-and-white. It ended up becoming really gray.鈥

From there, Artifishal ramps up into hatcheries鈥 broad-reaching effects. The film provides convincing evidence that hatcheries are built solely to support industrial and recreational fisheries, and that they are used as political pawns of the government agencies that oversee them. We learn about how struggling salmon populations endanger killer whales and Native American tribes. The 鈥溾 makes a cameo. Eventually, the film makes its way to a logical endpoint: the massive environmental impacts of salmon farming聽and hatcheries鈥 use as cover for dams, pollution, and overfishing.

The backwardness and absurdity of man鈥檚 intervention is a common thread, with pungent imagery: salmon are whacked with metal rods, frozen en masse into fish cubes that are then shattered, and disemboweled for their eggs, all in the name of industrializing what nature already does on its own.

It鈥檚 worth remembering that nature鈥檚 processes can be just as brutal. But聽like Patagonia鈥檚 other films, Artifishal聽has an agenda: spreading Chouinard鈥檚 scrappy environmentalism. Many people agree with him, myself included. But at times, the film oversimplifies. Notably, it glosses over the different types of fish hatcheries that exist鈥攕ome of which, like captive breeding programs to save dwindling species, are less problematic than others. In an email, Patrick Samuel, a program manager at the fishing conservation organization CalTrout, explained that鈥檚 the reason聽his organization did not officially endorse the film, though it did聽host聽screenings. 鈥淗atcheries cannot replace fish that are adapted to their local conditions,鈥 Samuel wrote. 鈥淭hat said, keep in mind that there are different kinds of hatcheries built expressly and designed for different purposes, so painting them all with a broad brush is inaccurate and unfair.鈥

Murphy鈥檚 counterpoint is that 鈥渃onservation鈥 hatcheries and captive breeding programs are a bandage on a gaping wound鈥攁 free pass to keep fishing聽and damming rivers聽where species are struggling. And he鈥檚 right.聽

Ultimately, Artifishal聽sets out a powerful argument against the misuse of fish hatcheries in the United States. It鈥檚 also the perfect film for our apocalyptic times. As the Amazon burns and the polar ice caps melt, Artifishal聽takes on a problem with a relatively simple fix聽and dishes out equal parts education and hope.

My fish hatchery story has a happy ending: it聽was abandoned, and local groups eventually turned the stream into a haven for native brook trout. (Though it鈥檚 worth noting that those brook trout were likely raised in鈥攜ou guessed it鈥攁 hatchery.)聽The film ends somewhat happily, too, by showing activists鈥 efforts to remove dams on the Klamath River and allow native fish populations to return and spawn, unhindered by hatcheries. Saving salmon stocks isn鈥檛 that hard, Murphy seems to say. All humans need to do is get the hell out of the way and let Mother Nature work.

Lead Photo: Courtesy Ben Moon/Patagonia

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