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Dallas Observer editor Joe Tone's first book Bones uncovered a connection between quarter-horse racing and Mexican drug cartels.
Dallas Observer editor Joe Tone's first book Bones uncovered a connection between quarter-horse racing and Mexican drug cartels. (illustration: Nicole Rifkin)

These Farmers Have a Different Take on Big Ag

A new nonfiction book by Ted Genoways looks at the complex argument over how best to grow food in America, told from the farmer's perspective. Another good read explores how a drug kingpin made millions breeding horses.

Published: 
Dallas Observer editor Joe Tone's first book Bones uncovered a connection between quarter-horse racing and Mexican drug cartels.
(illustration: Nicole Rifkin)

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In Ted Genoways鈥檚 new book, , Rick Hammond, a corn, soybean, and cattle farmer, is preparing to hand over the family business to his daughter, 颅Meghan, and her fianc茅, Kyle鈥攖he sixth generation of Hammonds to work the land in central 颅Nebraska. Genoways, an 国产吃瓜黑料 contributor and Nebraska local, spent more than a year visiting the Hammonds, from one fall鈥檚 harvest to the next season鈥檚 planting.聽

Perhaps surprisingly, Genoways learns, Nebraska is not a natural place to farm; there鈥檚 just never been that much water. It was government policy鈥攖he 1862 Homestead Act, then agricultural subsidies鈥攖hat allowed the Midwest to become the world鈥檚 breadbasket. And at a cost: Genoways writes of the environmental damage wrought by pesticides and overwatering, the risks of genetically modified seed, and the harm of flooding global grain markets with cheap corn. American farming frequently receives tough criticism on these points. The beauty of This Blessed Earth is to understand them from a grower鈥檚 perspective. Under the current American system, environmentally sound farming is at odds with the Hammonds鈥 survival, something that few critics seem to get. 鈥淭here鈥檚 a lot of things wrong with farming now,鈥 Meghan, the idealist in the family, tells Genoways. 鈥淏ut we鈥檝e also gone down this road quite a ways, and the people who say 鈥楾his is all a brand-new development and it鈥檚 easily reversed鈥 don鈥檛 know what the fuck they鈥檙e talking about.鈥澛

The Hammonds, who have several hundred acres of land, are honest, ethical, and hardworking. In the end, it鈥檚 up to readers to decide whether the midwestern family farm is worth saving.

, the first book by former , is about another kind of family farm. In 2012, Tone learned of a DEA raid on a quarter-horse-racing track in Los Angeles and, noticing a Texas connection, began investigating. Quarter-horse racing, in which the nimble cattle horses sprint a quarter-mile, is the dominant form of racing in parts of the Southwest and Southern California. A top quarter horse can bring more than $1 million at auction.聽

As Tone reports in brilliant detail, racing quarter horses was once a favorite pastime of the Zetas, which in 2010 was the most brutal of the Mexican drug cartels. Former leader Miguel Trevino, himself arguably the most murderous of the Zetas, was a quarter-horse fanatic.聽

In Bones, Tone tells the bizarre story of Trevino鈥檚 older brother, Jos茅, a bricklayer in Dallas with no direct involvement in drug trafficking. Miguel, Tone believes, cheaply sold Jos茅 a champion quarter horse named Tempting Dash in the hope that Jos茅 would become rich off the horse鈥檚 winnings and breeding fees and provide for his family.

Relying on extensive court records and interviews with Scott Lawson, the rookie FBI agent who discovered the brothers鈥 scheme, Tone re-creates the early successes that led Jos茅 and Tempting Dash into the winner鈥檚 circle, and then the U.S. government鈥檚 crosshairs. Bones is an important addition to the literature on the U.S.-Mexico drug trade and a fascinating window into the subculture of American quarter-horse racing.聽

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