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Competence will lead to confidence, says extreme athlete Will Gadd.
Competence will lead to confidence, says extreme athlete Will Gadd. (Photo: Ted Hesser)
Get Schooled

It’s Never Too Early to Teach Kids Risk Management

Extreme athlete Will Gadd on why kids should develop competence over confidence

Published: 
Competence will lead to confidence, says extreme athlete Will Gadd.
(Photo: Ted Hesser)

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In the Canadian Rockies, up a narrow canyon, eight-year-old Rose sits on her pack in the snow. Next to a sled full of gear, she works the straps on her crampons听with a little help from her dad. Rose鈥檚 older sister, Marie, 11,听sits nearby and fits her own crampons. They鈥檙e in Grotto Canyon, near their hometown of Canmore, Alberta, and they鈥檙e here for the ice.

This may be a normal day out for the girls鈥攊t鈥檚 Marie鈥檚 third time听and Rose鈥檚 second time ice climbing鈥攂ut their father, professional climber听Will Gadd, certainly does not have a normal career. Despite making a living through dangerous feats听like听establishing some of the world鈥檚 hardest ice and mixed climbs, sending a frozen Niagara Falls, and setting the distance world record for paragliding (twice), he hasn鈥檛 reached the ripe听old age of 52 without knowing a thing or two about risk management. On under career highlights, he proudly lists 鈥渟urviving.鈥

Gadd and his kids try to go on one adventure every weekend, not only because they love it, but also because it teaches the girls how to assess and manage risk in the outdoors, a skill that Gadd hopes听they will carry over to everyday life. Risk management, however, isn鈥檛 about eliminating risk altogether鈥攁n impossibility in any facet of life鈥攂ut recognizing听potential hazards and mitigating听the consequences, or knowing when to bail.

With her crampons on, Rose pops up and asks her dad if she can sled while she waits to climb. Gadd replies, 鈥淲hat鈥檚 going to happen when you get in the sled with crampons on?鈥

Rose looks at the sled for a moment, and then her feet, and then back to the sled. 鈥淚 poke holes in it,鈥 she says. 鈥淚鈥檒l just go practice.鈥 She picks up a pair of ice tools听and, stomping her feet to set the crampons, duck-walks over to the frozen river to work on her swing.

鈥淥K, Rosie,鈥澨鼼add听says. 鈥淛ust keep the pointy bits away from your eyes.鈥


Parenting is a lot like guiding,and vice versa, Gadd says. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e taking care of people in the mountains, regardless of their age, you鈥檝e got to set realistic goals, keep them warm and fed, and make sure the risks you鈥檙e taking are appropriate.鈥

As for the latter, he classifies risk into three general tiers based on the potential consequences: bumps and bruises, hospital, and death. He uses the same system听whether guiding or out with his girls, but his girls were the ones who came up with the names. When they reach a hazard, like the base of a cliff, together they assess the danger. They run through scenarios鈥what would happen if this, or what would happen if that鈥攁nd then come up with ways to manage or work around those hazards. If the risk is too high for the girls鈥 experience or ability level, they鈥檒l walk away. 鈥淚鈥檓 not trying to scare my kids by pointing out there is potential for death and hospital and bruises out there,鈥澨鼼add听says. 鈥淚鈥檓 trying to get them to identify the real problems, and then they鈥檙e free to explore the spaces between them.鈥

He is Socratic in his approach. Like with Rose and the sled, Gadd rarely tells his girls to not do something听but will instead phrase a concern as a question to encourage critical thinking. 鈥淭he goal is to turn them into autonomous people, right?鈥 he says. 鈥淚 think there鈥檚 this overemphasis on developing confidence in kids, but if you develop confidence without competence, it leads to beatdowns and danger. I like to boost their competence, and I hope confidence will follow.鈥


As Marie and Rose take turns climbing laps on the ice flow, a hiker approaches the cliff to take photos. 鈥淒ad,鈥 Marie says, 鈥渢hat woman is standing in a dangerous place.鈥

Immersed in her camera, the hiker is oblivious to the fact that the top of the cliff is now in full sunlight on an unseasonably warm day. Any loose rock that had frozen in place over the winter could come unglued at any moment. The ice climb itself is protected by a section of overhanging rock, but a few feet out from the base of the cliff is a brown ring of pebbles and stones, exactly where the woman stopped. Stand there without a helmet for too long, and you might be riding the hospital train.

鈥淜ids are more capable than we give them credit for,鈥澨鼼add听says. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e pretty good at recognizing these situations听if you let them develop that skill.鈥 But he鈥檒l also admit there鈥檚 a learning curve. Kids make mistakes, they get bumps and bruises from time to time, and that鈥檚 OK听in the right circumstances. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 what they鈥檙e supposed to do鈥攖hey鈥檙e kids,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 how they learn.鈥 Finding that balance between acceptable or healthy risk and serious danger is the crux for any parent.

The day continues to warm beyond Gadd鈥檚 comfort level for ice climbing鈥攖he object hazard rises above his acceptable level of risk for his kids鈥攁nd so the team switches gears to sport number two. Gadd had hauled up ice skates in the sled. All three are itching to play on the angled and undulating ice of the canyon floor鈥攕omething they have never tried before. Rose is first out on the ice. She takes a few hesitant strides, stumbles once or twice, and then in no time is ripping around in circles with confidence well beyond her years.

鈥淗owever people want to raise their kids, right on. But for me, I think it鈥檚 important that they develop a sense of adventure and risk management at an early age,鈥澨鼼add听says. 鈥淚f I don鈥檛 teach them how to do that on their own听now, then they won鈥檛 be able to do that on their own later.

鈥淚鈥檓 hoping when, say, Marie is 16, and she鈥檚 contemplating getting into a car with somebody who has been pounding beers, she can look at that situation听and make the right decision.鈥

At the end of the day, the sled loaded with packs and Rose and Marie sitting on top, Gadd takes the reins. 鈥淗elmet check!鈥 he says. The girls both slap the top of their helmets twice with their mittens, and then they鈥檙e off, down the canyon and out of the mountains, without any bumps or bruises.

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