It鈥檚 a hot June day in New Mexico鈥檚 new Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, and Sierra Club executive director Michael Brune is bouncing on his toes at the Little Arsenic Springs trailhead. Brune is a tall, fit 41-year-old, made even taller by the looming backpack cradling his eight-month-old daughter, Genevieve. He shifts back and forth from one foot to the other, doing the universal daddy dance.
Genevieve鈥檚 soft honks echo those of our companions: Rio, Diego, K2, and five more shaggy split-lipped llamas, loaded up with supplies for a switchbacking 800-foot descent into the Rio Grande Gorge. The llamas hum back and forth to one another and munch on 鈥渓lama-nola鈥濃攐ats provided by the double handful by Brune鈥檚 eight-year-old daughter, Olivia鈥攁s their keeper, Wild Earth Llama 国产吃瓜黑料s鈥 owner and wilderness advocate Stuart Wilde, gives the Brunes and a handful of local conservation activists the drill on .
鈥淪o what does my bumper sticker say, Olivia?鈥 Wilde asks. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 right: Spit happens. These guys have got a pecking order and鈥攈ey, Sebastian, come over here, buddy. Raja gets grumpy sometimes. I鈥檇 hate for you to get a faceful.鈥 Sebastian is Brune鈥檚 four-year-old son, and it would indeed be a bummer if the kid got slimed by a llama: He already sat on a cactus earlier this trip.
The Brune family is on the tail end of a great American road trip, to kick off the . Two weeks ago, Michael and his wife, Mary, piled their three kids into a silver Chrysler Town & Country minivan and chugged out of their hometown of Alameda, California, to see the West. Like the Griswolds in an enviro Vacation, they鈥檝e been driving and camping their way through Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona, stopping off at new and proposed national monuments to trumpet the recent conservation successes of wild lands in the West鈥攁nd to push for the designation of more. (To date, President Obama has used his authority under the 1906 Antiquities Act to 鈥攕ites of natural, historical, or cultural significance鈥攖o the now 108-monument total.)聽
The idea for the adventure came on one of Brune鈥檚 many transcontinental lobbying trips to D.C. “Honestly,” he says, 鈥淚 was on yet another red-eye from Washington Dulles to San Francisco, landing at two in the morning, and I thought: If I鈥檓 going to be doing all this travel for work, I should do something fun with the family. So we decided to wrap it up with the Our Wild America initiative. We鈥檙e doing the national monuments, and showing the kids.鈥
The Brune family has camped in Utah鈥檚 Dead Horse State Park鈥攈ome of a proposed Greater Canyonlands National Monument. They鈥檝e hiked with Iraq veterans along the Arkansas River in Colorado鈥檚 Browns Canyon, which Senator Mark Udall proposed as a national monument in March, and explored the new Chimney Rock National Monument in Colorado鈥檚 San Juan Mountains, created by President Obama last fall. And today they鈥檝e landed in one of the country鈥檚 newest monuments, designated in March.
The Rio Grande del Norte is 242,000 acres, a pinon-and-juniper highland cradled between the Sangre de Cristo and San Juan Mountains and cut by the Rio Grande Gorge. Local river runners, guides, farmers, ranchers, and native Americans have been working to protect this area for 50 years, not only for wildlife鈥攅lk, eagles, pronghorn antelope, even river otters鈥攂ut for traditional uses like hunting and pi帽on nut gathering. That鈥檚 important here in northern New Mexico, where rural communities, a mix of Native American, Hispanic, and Anglo, remain profoundly connected to the land.
“It鈥檚 so inspiring to me personally and to us as a family to show our kids these places with the people who鈥檝e worked so hard to save them,鈥 says Brune. It鈥檚 not often that a kid gets to fly in a small Cessna over lands splintered by hydraulic fracking or to see the effects of tar-sands mining here in the United States. Olivia and her dad flew with EcoFlight pilot Bruce Gordon over bright blue potash mining pits near the Colorado River in Utah, and over Colorado鈥檚 rig-pocked Roan Plateau. It鈥檚 one thing learning about the environment in the classroom: it鈥檚 another to see it from a tiny plane banking over red-rock canyons and forested mesas.
The Sierra Club as a whole is placing a big emphasis on youth these days. 鈥淵oung people now, they already get it,鈥 says Brune. 鈥淵ou don鈥檛 have to explain any of this to them at all. They understand environmental issues almost instinctively.鈥 He鈥檚 pushing for more twentysomethings to join the Club鈥檚 chapter leadership. 鈥淚鈥檓 gonna call on young people to occupy the Sierra Club, to run for office and take over,鈥 he says. 鈥淚鈥檓 joking maybe 25 percent.鈥
Maybe Olivia will be on that team. For now she鈥檚 got llamas to lead. Olivia and Diego are instantly tight: Diego likes to walk second in the pack, so she falls in behind Rio and me, and we descend into the canyon. Wilde, scouting back and forth up the trail in his ponytail and hat, alternates between herding his novice llama handlers鈥斺淣o, you鈥檝e got to walk uphill from them!鈥濃攁nd filling us in on the canyon鈥檚 ecosystem. Of course, we鈥檙e all too transfixed by our wooly trail buddies to fully listen, but I believe Wilde says something about the Rio Grande del Norte鈥檚 ecosystem being kinda upside-down, its shaded reaches and cool river mimicking elevation gains as we descend. We move from pi帽on and juniper down into Ponderosa pines, Englemann spruce, and Douglas firs.
With their padded feet, the llamas barely make any noise, though they jostle when they get too far from the one in front. In a tall pine grove above the river, we tie them off and hike up to gather wild watercress in Little Arsenic Springs and, for Sebastian, to rock hop in the green, cold Rio Grande. Genevieve, who kept her mom up half the night in the tent, finds a shady shelter to gurgle and snack. After lunch鈥攁 luxurious spread thanks to burly white K2, who packed in two Coleman coolers鈥攚e set off in search of petroglyphs. The river corridor has tens of thousands of them, dating back 1,300 years and more.
Wilde knows every nook and cranny of this canyon, and he leads us to a large slanted slab filled with boxy elk etched here by the Ute culture 400 to 800 years ago. Just a few feet away, Olivia discovers another petroglyph: a rounded curving bighorn sheep by the Pueblo culture hundreds of years before.
It鈥檚 a hot hike out, a mile straight up to the trailhead. Little Sebastian soldiers almost all the way up on his own before letting Mom carry him. Olivia leads Diego up and out, with Genevieve nodding in her dad鈥檚 pack. The Brunes are off to Santa Fe and then the Grand Canyon, but not before Olivia gives every last llama his llamanola and leads all eight of them, one by one, into Wilde鈥檚 livestock truck. Then the Town and Country pulls off towards the mountains, and with a wave the Brune family heads west.
For more information about proposed national monuments, check out Sierra Club’s .