Xian Chiang-Waren Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/xian-chiang-waren/ Live Bravely Thu, 12 May 2022 18:46:37 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Xian Chiang-Waren Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/xian-chiang-waren/ 32 32 Elyse Rylander Is a Trailblazer for LGBTQ Youth /culture/opinion/elyse-rylander-lgbtq-organizer-superhero/ Tue, 03 Apr 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/elyse-rylander-lgbtq-organizer-superhero/ Elyse Rylander Is a Trailblazer for LGBTQ Youth

Ultimately, she wants the outdoors to be an equitable space for queer kids to learn, work, grow, and thrive鈥攁nd be recognized.

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Elyse Rylander Is a Trailblazer for LGBTQ Youth

On a blustery afternoon late last August, members of America鈥檚 first LGBTQ youth conservation corps, traveling by kayak, found themselves momentarily stranded on Patos, an uninhabited island in Washington鈥檚 Puget Sound.

Elyse Rylander, the founder of a trailblazing organization听that brings LGBTQ youth outdoors, had hoped to make the crossing to a YMCA-run camp on Orcas Island earlier in the day. The Queer Crew鈥檚 seven teenagers and two trip leaders had spent four weeks doing conservation work throughout Washington under the programming umbrella of Rylander鈥檚 nonprofit,听, and the . This kayaking outing would听close their summer program.

They had a rare evening of rest planned on听Orcas, but as midafternoon approached, strong winds kept the group pinned down on Patos Island. Rylander deemed it too risky to attempt the crossing.听鈥淣ever a dull moment when you鈥檙e working with Mother Nature,鈥 she said.

Rylander, 27,听officially launched听OTA three years ago to fill a gap she鈥檇 noticed over more than a decade working as an outdoor teacher and guide: a lack of nature听programming geared toward LGBTQ youth. The seedling idea for OTA began years earlier, while Rylander听was an undergraduate at the University of Wisconsin; she developed her plan in a Microsoft Word document throughout her twenties. To keep the dream alive, Rylander told me she鈥檇 鈥渄onated eggs a couple of times鈥 and worked part-time jobs.

鈥淢y vision, originally, was just to have a gay Outward Bound,鈥 she says. But when OTA launched its initial programming in 2015, Rylander learned the extent to which the kids听usually craved something more than just an eight-day backpacking adventure. 鈥淭丑别re is this need to connect and to find a听community,鈥 Rylander says, noting that queer high-schoolers often feel ostracized in their schools or peer groups. She refocused OTA鈥檚 programming to be especially attuned to participant's emotional nuances, and to follow-up with groups and participants after an adventure in a way more similar to wilderness therapy than Outward Bound.听

In just a few years, OTA has grown exponentially. In 2015, Rylander ran an eight-day sea kayaking adventure with just two participants; in 2016, she ran daylong and multiday surfing, climbing, and hiking trips with several dozen kids. A turning point came in 2017, when Rylander partnered with the Northwest Youth Corps to create the nation鈥檚 first Queer Crew, providing a multiweek experience that combined outdoor education, conservation training, and individual empowerment. Youth conservation crews have been a big part of maintaining public lands since the 1970s.听The national forests and parks hire kids to groom trails. The kids, in turn, get vital job training in conservation while spending a whole summer outside.

The Queer Crew was like themultiple听other crews Northwest Youth Corps ran in Oregon and Washington last summer, but it听also made use of OTA鈥檚 expertise to boost confidence and bonding for its high school鈥揳ge members, all of whom identify as LGBTQ in some way (as did all but one of the group leaders). 鈥淲e want to get them to the point that they鈥檙e comfortable outdoors,鈥 says Jay Satz, director of Northwest Youth Corps鈥櫶齪artnerships, explaining the need for a queer-only crew. 鈥淪ometimes you have to build that without the distractions and baggage that society comes with.鈥澨齀n other words, the kids were able to focus on learning to cut trails without the constant worry that crew mates鈥攍ike society at large鈥攎ight judge them for not identifying with the gender they鈥檇 been assigned at birth.

Crew members signed up听for different reasons. Caroline Shea, 18, traveled from the Washington, DC,听area for an opportunity to work outside with other peers who identified as LGBTQ. She considered herself 鈥渙utdoorsy鈥 and spent a semester of high school at an environmental education school. But being queer and loving the outdoors had 鈥渁lways been super separate鈥 parts of her life. The programs she听participated in prior to Queer Crew were largely 鈥渄ominated by straight cisgender guys.鈥 Queer Crew gave Shea an opportunity to be outside with a group culture where she could be fully herself. An added perk? Northwest Youth Corps鈥櫶齝onservation job training meant that Shea and other crew members were compensated for their work, rather than having to pay for an outdoor adventure听through Outward Bound or NOLS.

Mel Hanby, who identified as a trans young man, said he jumped at the opportunity when a听Northwest Youth Corps outreach coordinator visited his high school鈥檚 Gay-Straight Alliance to promote Queer Crew. He is considering a career in conservation, so Queer Crew was valuable initial work experience. The openness of the group culture was also a life-changing first: 鈥淚t鈥檚 very one-foot-in-the-closet for me, in my rural little town,鈥 Handy says. 鈥淏eing out here has allowed me to identify as what I want to identify as. I want to bring that sense of safeness out into the world.鈥

Attention to details make the program accommodating to queer kids. Overnight camping programs, for instance, traditionally divide tents and facilities by gender assigned at birth; OTA does not divide tent groups by gender identity or expression. For a young person who has not yet come out to their parents, signing up for the Queer Crew or an LGBTQ-focused outdoor experience presents a unique hurdle. In response, Rylander frames OTA as programming 鈥渇or queer youth and their allies鈥 and is experimenting with encouraging self-organized outdoor group activities that OTA can incentivize听through social media.

The people OTA and Northwest Youth Corps select to support their shared programming are also equipped to handle emotional trauma. 鈥淨ueer folks are overrepresented in all those negative statistics of youth depression, anxiety, even homelessness,鈥 Rylander says. Several Queer Crew members referenced supporting one another through bouts of intense sadness and anxiety during the summer, 鈥渂ecause [depression鈥檚] a thing, and I鈥檝e been there,鈥 one said simply.

By the time Rylander and the Queer Crew found themselves stranded in the farthest corner of Puget Sound, they鈥檇 been outdoors with one another for weeks. They had cleared brush and stabilized trails in four different work sites across Washington. Their two transportation vehicles had been unreliable. They named the first 鈥淩achel,鈥 after Jennifer Aniston鈥檚 character on the 鈥90s sitcom Friends, because 鈥渋t kept having breakdowns鈥; the second one was 鈥淩oss,鈥澨齛nother Friends character, 鈥渂ecause he sucks.鈥They鈥檇 seen bears. Mice had gotten into their weekly rations. They鈥檇 been rained on, scraped by brambles, and pushed to their physical and emotional edges. Being stranded on Patos Island for an afternoon, at that point, was just another challenge served up by the elements that they could overcome.

Eventually, the winds changed course.听Rylander and the crew relaunched their kayaks and, before sundown, arrived at Camp Orkila on Orcas Island, where they kicked back over pizza for one of their last nights of summer together.


Rylander frequently characterizes nature as a 鈥渄isruptive force.鈥 Borrowing from the theorist , she believes nature to be a particularly orienting space for queer people, whose identities resist the 鈥渟traight and orderly鈥 and whose place can often be uncertain in a society dominated by cisgendered straight people.

Nature is full of fluid expressions of gender and sexuality鈥攆rom the ways plant and animal species behave to the fact that the trail is often literally not straight.

Nature, by contrast, is full of fluid expressions of gender and sexuality鈥攆rom the ways plant and animal species behave to the fact that the trail is often literally not straight. Plus, on a practical level, being in the wilderness can render obsolete some of the obstacles that queer young people face in their everyday lives.听鈥淲e always joke that听trees don鈥檛 care where you pee,鈥 Rylander says, referring to political controversy in some states over same-sex bathrooms.

Rylander developed an appreciation for the benefits of nature听at a young age. She was born in a small town in Wisconsin听and spent her childhood canoeing, skiing, and kayaking. Her parents were college-educated, outdoorsy, and liberal; educated at Madison, they 鈥渢ried pretty hard to create a narrative counter to the very conservative and small-town feel of the community we grew up in,鈥 Rylander says. She vividly remembers the Confederate flags and 鈥渋gnorant鈥 beliefs of some people in her hometown.

At age five, Rylander鈥攁 self-described 鈥渃lassic tomboy鈥濃攆ound herself with 鈥渁 fat crush鈥 on the pink Power Ranger听on TV. But it was not until later that she began to consider her sexuality. 鈥淓llen鈥檚 show was not on at that time,鈥 Rylander听says, 鈥渁nd there were no other queer narratives that I had access to that talked about even just being gay. I guess there was Will and Grace, but that was so far removed from my reality.鈥

In high school, Rylander began working and teaching for Rutabaga Paddle Sports, an outdoor store in nearby Madison听whose staff included听queer women. 鈥淚 was seeing these really wonderful, strong, female, queer role models,鈥 she remembers. Rylander听felt empowered by being a kayaking teacher and encountering positive queer idols for the first time. 鈥淚t just happened to be a place that was doing all the things I need it to听do.鈥

In many ways, OTA is designed to replicate the safety and empowerment that Rutabaga gave to Rylander as a teenager. Ultimately, she wants the outdoors to be an equitable space for queer kids to learn, work, grow, and thrive鈥攁nd be recognized. 鈥淲e prize people who can go out and be successful in the outdoors鈥攖he sex appeal and the badassness of folks that are guides or professional outdoor people,鈥 Rylander says. 鈥淭hat creates a lot of confidence and self-worth,鈥 qualities that can be particularly life changing for young people who are often marginalized because of their identities.


The day after the kayak stranding, atop Orcas Island鈥檚 Mount Constitution, tourists milled around a sandstone-and-steel observation tower鈥攚hich, incidentally, was built in the 1930s by听the Citizen Conservation Corps, a grandfather program of today鈥檚 youth conservation crews. Amid the swarms of chattering families in Patagonia and khaki travel pants were Queer Crew members鈥攁 curly haired youth clad in a T-shirt and beige gypsy skirt, a spry participant wearing an orange beanie and transparent black mesh tank top, another with a puff of pink hair. It was their last day together, and they gathered around Rylander鈥攖all and athletic, with close-cropped hair, orange sunglasses, and an unconscious tendency to strike a camp-counselor pose of resting hands on hips.

She led the crew in an 鈥渁ffirmation circle,鈥 a closing ritual in which everyone piled praise on one another. The young crew members fidgeted, shuffled to hug different friends, or wiped tears from each other鈥檚 eyes. They regarded Rylander with admiration verging on awe.

After each turn, Rylander resurrected an age-old camp tradition, giving each crew member a friendship bracelet made from rainbow-colored string鈥斺淰ery gay,鈥 she declared to the group.

Afterward, when the affirmation circle reached Rylander, the crew鈥檚 veneration spilled out: 鈥淵ou鈥檙e just this really badass queer woman who saw something that needed to be done.鈥 鈥淵ou鈥檙e someone who leaves a lasting impression on people.鈥 鈥淵ou鈥檙e so cool!鈥 鈥淚 can see Elyse on a solo kayaking trip and she, like, breaks her arm and just keeps motoring.鈥

She wants the outdoors to be an equitable space for queer kids to learn, work, grow and thrive鈥攁nd be recognized.

鈥淚t鈥檚 interesting for me to hear you all say these things to me听and to think of how I鈥檝e gotten to where I am now,鈥 she said. 鈥淥ne, because of my queer identity, and also because of all the time I鈥檝e spent outdoors being worked by Mother Nature over and over again鈥攈aving to learn that stuff never ends up the way you want it to, but often it winds up way better than you thought it would.

鈥淎ll those tools that I have now that you all talked about,鈥 Rylander continued, 鈥淚 have because I spent time outside like you all just did for the last five weeks. You鈥檙e all on that path now as well.鈥 Soon, it was time to say goodbye. Rylander and AlecRobinson, another OTA staffer, waved as the crew piled aboard 鈥淩oss鈥 and drove toward听the Orcas Island ferry terminal.

This year will be the biggest yet for听Rylander and OTA. In Washington, Rylander will run daylong and short multiday events before she and Northwest Youth Corps launch their second Queer Crew. She has launched adult programming in Seattle. In both San Francisco and Seattle, she has launched mentorship programs听and partnered with Outward Bound to create a program that combines two weeks of hiking with a period of urban service. She is piloting an initiative in four different cities that encourages kids and their parents to self-organize adventures. (OTA provides outdoor challenge ideas and rewards鈥攐ften gear鈥攆rom its sponsors.)听

Rylander has realized that the queer kids in OTA鈥檚 programs are eager for queer outdoor role models鈥攐ne of them being her. She and her partner fronted The North Face鈥檚 first queer advertising campaign. She also launched the industry鈥檚 first in Seattle last November, with major support from the Wilderness Society, which drew 120 participants from the United States听and Canada. This year鈥檚 summit will be held in October in the San Francisco Bay Area.

鈥淲hat I feel like we鈥檙e experiencing right now is the industry as a whole kind of dipping its toe into this conversation around queer equity, and I do think we will galvanize folks,鈥 Rylander says. 鈥淧eople in the industry who are queer and haven鈥檛 been able to find a place for themselves are sort of coming out the woodwork.听And I really think we鈥檙e going to be able to bring people together.鈥

Portrait:听Clayton Boyd/The North Face

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Think James Bond Is Badass? Meet the Pilots Who Help Film Him. /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/power-couple-runs-only-helicopter-outfit-maui/ Wed, 17 May 2017 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/power-couple-runs-only-helicopter-outfit-maui/ Think James Bond Is Badass? Meet the Pilots Who Help Film Him.

Don and Donna Shearer鈥檚 helicopters get dispatched to rescues, James Bond sets, Jaws swells, and forest fires on the Hawaiian island.

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Think James Bond Is Badass? Meet the Pilots Who Help Film Him.

If you call 911 for a helicopter rescue in the contiguous United States鈥攐r, as Hawaiian islanders prefer, on 鈥渢he mainland鈥濃攃hances are the fire or police departments will arrive in their own aircraft. But if you need a helicopter to rescue you in Maui County, you鈥檒l meet a member of Don and Donna Shearer鈥檚 helicopter team.

The Shearers own ,听a helicopter company that specializes in utility work. If that makes it sound like they鈥檙e missing the action, consider this: their helicopters have hoisted cameras for James Bond movies and American Express commercials; they鈥檙e the go-to birds for filming watersports at Jaws (they appear in Susan Casey鈥檚 bestselling book , about 100-foot swells and the people who chase them); they鈥檝e detonated bombs to clear Navy testing sites; and they鈥檝e dropped Drug Enforcement Agency officers into illegal marijuana patches. And听since local fire departments and emergency-rescue departments on Maui don鈥檛 have their own helicopters, the Shearers and their staff are on standby 24/7 in case one is needed for a rescue.听

After all, it鈥檚 Hawaii. 鈥淎 lot of people come here,鈥 Donna says. 鈥淪tupid things happen.鈥


Age: Both are 58
Job: Owners and operators of Windward Aviation
Home Base: Maui
Years in the Business: 32 (27 at Windward Aviation)
TV Inspiration:
Division of Labor: Donna handles contracting and hiring. Don flies (and does the firing). 鈥淒onna鈥檚 the brains of the operation,鈥 says Don. 鈥淎nd he gets the glory!鈥 adds Donna.

How They Got to Maui

Don:听鈥淔rom the time I was a little boy I was intrigued by flight. I was born in 1958, and from World War II to the 1970s and 鈥80s, there was more progress in aviation than probably any other period of time. I would beg my mom to go to the airport so I could watch the planes take off and land. I started flying myself in 1977, the year I graduated from high school. I got my mechanics license to work on airplanes and helicopters, then one thing led to another and I was offered a job at Continental Airlines as听a pilot. At the same time, I had another job opportunity to fly helicopters in Hawaii for a tour company. I figured I could always get an airplane job.鈥

Donna:听鈥淚 moved to Maui in 1991听and did a tour on a helicopter the following year. Afterward,听I was like, Man, I鈥檇 rather learn how to fly a helicopter. And that鈥檚 how I met Don. He had a little flight school at the time, so I met him through the yellow pages.鈥

Don and Donna Shearer with their furry copilot.
Don and Donna Shearer with their furry copilot. (Courtesy of Don and Donna Shearer)

There Is No Typical Day鈥

Don:听鈥淲e started Windward Aviation in the early 1990s. Just about every helicopter company in Hawaii does helicopter tours for starters. But with one of the previous employers, I got exposed to what鈥檚 called utility work. Utility work is where you do everything except tours. So we鈥檒l put poles in the ground and string wire for utility companies; we鈥檒l carry water to fight fires; we鈥檒l take police into marijuana patches; we鈥檒l take conservation groups, such as the and the , to save native rainforests by building fences and eradicating invasive species; we鈥檒l do movies and commercials. And we have contracts with the fire department, the police department, the state and national parks, and the military.听

Donna: On any given day, we could be on all the islands听doing all those different jobs.鈥

On Filming Movies

Don:听鈥淚鈥檓 kind of over it. It鈥檚 like, 鈥極K, fly鈥 No, don鈥檛 fly.鈥 鈥極K, fly!鈥 No, no, no, don鈥檛 fly. We鈥檙e not ready.鈥 鈥OK, fly! Go, go, go!鈥欌

On Flying at Jaws

Don: 鈥It鈥檚听听I don鈥檛 think I鈥檒l ever be able to get away from. I鈥檝e been doing it longer than anybody, since about 1990. I鈥檝e met and gotten close to many of the professional athletes that surf, kite, and windsurf there. We鈥檙e really sought-after for all the documentaries and films about Jaws.鈥

Best Part of the Job

Don:听鈥淲e鈥檙e constantly being dispatched for missing kiters, surfers, windsurfers, hikers, fishermen, plane crashes, people falling off waterfalls鈥 It鈥檚 always nice when you get out there and you can actually rescue someone. That鈥檚 a very fulfilling part of the job.鈥

Donna:听鈥淲e did a big rescue one year, of like ! There was a flash flood, and they got caught up off the Hana Highway. There have been good rescues and hilarious ones, as well as some tragic ones. But if everybody comes out alive, it鈥檚 a good day.鈥

Worst Part of the Job

Don:听鈥淭丑别 other side is when you鈥檙e picking up bodies. It鈥檚 a horrible tragedy, and you鈥檙e just providing closure for the family. That can wear on you over time. I鈥檝e been to a plane crash with 20 fatalities. I鈥檝e been to three other plane crashes with ten fatalities. It鈥檚 had a huge impact on me.鈥

Finding Time to Play

Don: 鈥My cardinal rule is to try and get in the ocean everyday. All I need is an hour of surfing, kite surfing, swimming, or a downwind run on my stand-up paddleboard. Once I get my ocean time, the business world is easily managed. Prior to that, I find myself getting too consumed and stressed out. The other outlet I have is being on the flying schedule鈥攐nce I leave the ground, my only concern is to be the most professional aviator possible. No cells phones in the cockpit! It鈥檚 totally an in-the-here-and-now kind of a moment.鈥

Donna: 鈥Don gets to fly almost everyday, whereas I do the hard part and sit at a desk for the majority of the workday, so my goal is to perform at least one type of exercise, whether it be surfing, kite surfing, running, lifting weights, or bicycling. Surfing trumps everything. I follow the forecast like a maniac鈥攊t鈥檚 my second job! Waves can now be forecasted a few weeks ahead, so I adjust my work schedule to allow myself the opportunity to surf if conditions are good. I also have a small workout station in my office, so I can exercise whenever I want to reenergize during the day.鈥

On Working with Your Spouse

Don:听鈥淲e really started working together in 2004 and determined rather quickly that we听needed to develop some ground rules. She cannot raise her voice and I cannot use cuss words. As long as we play by those simple rules, everything works fine. I have added my own new rule recently that she has no knowledge of: if I find myself getting a little upset, I remind myself听how much I love her and how special she听is to me.鈥

Donna:听鈥淢y wonderful hubby knows that I need a bit more play time each day, as I do all the hard crappy work and he gets all the glory. So it's a fair trade-off.鈥

On Spending a Life Together

Donna:听鈥淲e鈥檙e stronger together. We shine brighter together. The only thing is when he drops in on my wave鈥攖hat pisses me off!鈥澨

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Meet the Marathon Runner Designing Your Trail Gear /outdoor-gear/run/meet-marathon-runner-designing-your-trail-gear/ Tue, 02 May 2017 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/meet-marathon-runner-designing-your-trail-gear/ Meet the Marathon Runner Designing Your Trail Gear

Nancy Hoo is the woman behind your favorite Arc鈥檛eryx trail running jacket.

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Meet the Marathon Runner Designing Your Trail Gear

Have you ever wondered about the person who designed and tested the breathable vents and nifty hood of your favorite running jacket? Ever been hit by a downpour mid-run and wanted to thank her? If you run on the , you might get your chance.

Nancy Hoo, 50, is a design manager for the Arc鈥檛eryx . Hoo鈥檚 work fuses her talent for 鈥渢he technical aspect of design鈥 with her passion for running.

Her favorite part of the job? Watching buyers put her team鈥檚 clothing through the wringer. 鈥淲hen I鈥檓 outside and up in the mountains, I see gear that I鈥檝e worked on鈥攑eople wearing it and putting it to work,鈥 Hoo says.


Name: Nancy Hoo
Age: 50
Job: Designer for the Arc鈥檛eryx trail running and base layer collections
Current City: Vancouver, British Columbia
Hometown: Hong Kong (Hoo came to Vancouver when she was three.)
Years on the Job: Eight. Hoo freelanced for Arc鈥檛eryx for six years while raising her three children; she鈥檚 been in Arc鈥檛eryx鈥檚 BC-based headquarters full-time for two years.
Must-Have Apparel Item: 鈥淎 really great jacket. I鈥檝e always liked outerwear!鈥
Outdoor Passion: 鈥淚鈥檝e always been a runner.鈥
Design Area of Expertise: 鈥淚 specialize in formfitted products with stretch materials. I鈥檝e worked in areas from run to swim to bike that have allowed me to learn about body form and movement. Knits and stretch wovens work well in allowing the body to move without hindrance.鈥
Favorite Piece of Arc鈥檛eryx Gear: 鈥淢y go-to is , short-sleeve or long-sleeve. I can wear it all season and use it for everything from long runs to skiing and hiking. I听never chafe in it. It鈥檚 amazing.鈥
Favorite Piece of Non-Arc鈥檛eryx Gear: runners. They are super-bright pink with a bit of blue, and I am definitely not a pink girl. It was the only color they had, but they felt so good that I had to have them. They are lightweight, give me amazing grip on the trails, and have a wide toe box with a good fit at the back heel.鈥

What She Loves About Design: 鈥淚鈥檝e always loved clothing and how it鈥檚 put together. It鈥檚 amazing that you can make something starting with 2-D patterning, and then be able to sew it up. I鈥檝e always been driven by material and texture, how fabrics feel and what you can do with them. When I got out of school at Kwantlen Polytechnic University, I went straight into the technical aspects of fashion (design, patterning, construction) and kept on going.鈥

Certification/Education Needed for Her Job: 鈥淎 degree in fashion arts and technology will encompass an understanding of patterning, body form, sewing construction, textiles. And it鈥檒l give you some computer applications like Photoshop and Illustrator. I live in the world of for my job.

鈥淭丑别re are a lot of people here [at Arc鈥檛eryx] with industrial design backgrounds, too. It comes at it a different way, from a design point of view, and it looks at using materials for product needs and intended use. It鈥檚 very purposeful.鈥

A Typical Workday: 鈥淚 get to just build really cool stuff! I get to talk to athletes. I talk to the [outdoor-oriented] people around me to see what they have a need for. Then I look at materials. I look at patterning. I look at different production details. And then I put it all together to build a collection that is small and precise and purposeful for the consumer. We also look at fits and the logistics of what it takes [for a garment] to be feasibly made and go into production.鈥

Her Area of Focus: 鈥淚 do , which is trail running apparel. It鈥檚 hard to make a . Since you鈥檙e working super-hard when you鈥檙e running, your temperature goes up. You鈥檙e building condensation in your garments. You鈥檙e just sweaty! We want the jacket to be waterproof so you can run in all kinds of weather, but waterproof material has a membrane that has low air permeability, so you get a lot of condensation in the jacket.

鈥淭丑别 is one of the pieces I鈥檓 most proud of. We have these really cool vents鈥攖here are no zippers, since we鈥檙e trying to make it lightweight, and pit zips are just too cumbersome to deal with underneath when you鈥檙e trying to work hard. We used in-house feedback; colleagues would come up and talk to me or send us feedback through email after trying out a prototype. We were thinking of how to create more air circulation to the jacket without adding weight, so we reduced it by not putting in pit zips and incorporating these vents under the arm, so it doesn鈥檛 leak in water but allows for circulation.鈥

The Arc'teryx Norvan SL Hoodie Jacket is one of Nancy Hoo's designs.
The Arc'teryx Norvan SL Hoodie Jacket is one of Nancy Hoo's designs. (Courtesy of Arc'teryx)

Incorporating Athletes鈥 Feedback into the Clothing: 鈥淲e were aware that some people will go out for a two-hour run or not a super-long run as part of their training, and they wouldn鈥檛 necessarily carry a pack. We thought of what you鈥檇 need to carry while trail running. A lot of people carry a phone, a wallet or ID, gels. So Arc鈥檛eryx created the and the . The Soleus has a five-pocket system: There鈥檚 a center mesh pocket that鈥檚 large enough to house our light jackets. Then we have a zipping security pocket that you can put your phone in, a stash pocket for gels and bars, and front pockets. In the Nera, we have a three-pocket system. The front is big enough for your phone, and there are two stash pockets.鈥

Workspace Setup: 鈥淲e [designers] have a worktable right beside us that we can do patterning on听and that we can play and manipulate things on. Sewing machines are close by, so I can go sit on a sewing machine and do a quick mockup of something to see if it works听before I bring it to our pattern technicians to make it prettier and initiate a product with them.鈥

How to Get a Foot in the Door of Outdoor Apparel Design: 鈥淧eople ask me, 鈥楬ow do I become a designer?鈥 I say gain all the knowledge you can. Pattern making is super important; you need to understand how patterning works because fit is so integral to a fantastic product. If you don鈥檛 have fit, you won鈥檛 have a very good product. Learn about sewing construction, the sequencing of how to put your garment together. Gain knowledge about different machines, stitches, and what textiles are available and by what means you can put a garment together. Textiles are a huge part of outdoor apparel鈥攖extiles and materials are so integral to your design that you need to understand how they work and what their benefits and limitations are. Also, computer applications. You鈥檙e looking at Photoshop or Illustrator or InDesign to be able to communicate your designs and taking that to your product developers to be able to understand and read. That鈥檚 all knowledge you gain in school and internships.

鈥淎nd then, just really having passion for the activity you鈥檙e building for. If you don鈥檛 know how to use it and what the intentions are, you won鈥檛 be able to understand it. If you have a passion for it and know the activity, that has an impact on your design as well.鈥

(Courtesy of Arc'teryx)

What People Don鈥檛 Understand About Her Job: 鈥淒esign is only half your job as a designer. There are a lot of logistics. You have to understand how your product can get to market. You have to look at product-line planning to make a concise collection. You don鈥檛 want to overwhelm your buyer. You want to design a collection that addresses their needs but doesn鈥檛 have a lot of pieces. I don鈥檛 need to have 25 different T-shirts; I need to address [buyers鈥橾 needs. It鈥檚 about product knowledge, how to make things feasible, and how to communicate it. And there鈥檚 a lot of product testing.鈥

Minimizing Deskwork/Maximizing Outdoor Time: 鈥淭丑别 outdoors is such big part of our brand and product. At work, we鈥檙e all big users of our product. If we don鈥檛 go out and use it, we just don鈥檛 get the understanding we need to build useful gear. We鈥檙e surrounded by mountains. In Vancouver, you can be up in the mountains skiing, come back down and go for a bike ride around the creek, and then go on a lower trail run. All three things in one day. 鈥

Three Personal Bests: 鈥淚 backpacked the ! It was amazing. The views were spectacular. It made me realize that, wow, I really live in a beautiful part of the world.

鈥淎nd I did the New York Marathon. It wasn鈥檛 about the race; it was just about the people. [The crowds of onlookers] are so excited. They cheer you on every step of the way. They are so loud! I usually run with music, but I couldn鈥檛 hear it. I took my music out and put it away, and they were there for me. That was the best race I鈥檝e ever been in.

鈥淎lso, my kids. My kids are the biggest highlight of my life. I have three, and I think they make you realize what life really means. I am just constantly learning from them.鈥

On Loving Her Job: 鈥淚 always tell my kids, when you choose your path, you should love it. Work is a huge, huge part of your life. It鈥檚 not just a small part of it. It takes up so much of your time here on this earth. So, when you wake up, you should just love where you鈥檙e going.鈥

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Being a Pro Dog Photographer Is Even More Fun Than You’d Think /culture/love-humor/dog-photographer/ Mon, 13 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/dog-photographer/ Being a Pro Dog Photographer Is Even More Fun Than You'd Think

In dog-friendly Denver, a climber turned photographer carves his niche.

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Being a Pro Dog Photographer Is Even More Fun Than You'd Think

Two years ago, Sagar Gondalia sold his medical billing business in Denver and moved into the back of his Toyota FJ Cruiser with Voo, his Bernese mountain dog. Around the same time, he drew one of the National Park Service鈥檚 rare permits to journey down the Colorado River in Grand Canyon National Park, unguided. 鈥淪o, I figured I should buy a camera,鈥 Gondalia deadpans.

After traveling to the Grand Canyon with seven friends, Gondalia听took Voo听road-tripping听around the United States, crashing at friends鈥 homes. 鈥淲e鈥檇 flip through photos of our dogs and talk about them like they鈥檙e our kids.鈥 Of his newly married friends, only a few had children. The rest had dogs that felt like their children. 鈥淭en years ago, all these people were paying professional photographers to take pictures of their children,鈥 Gondalia says. 鈥淣ow those same people have the same amount of money and care about these dogs the same way.鈥 Currently settled in Denver鈥攁t least until next summer鈥擥ondalia鈥檚 is picking up steam.

Age: 30
Hometown: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Current City: Anchorage, Alaska
Office: 鈥淎 cluttered mess on a desk, with a couple monitors, a laptop, and a lot of dog hair.鈥
Job: Dog photographer
Favorite Breed: He won鈥檛 say, but admits to being a 鈥渂ig-dog person.鈥
Favorite Climb: The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon

Training: Totally self-taught. 鈥淚鈥檝e learned most of what I know from the advice of friends, YouTube, trial and error, and a shit-ton of Instagram,鈥 Gondalia says. 鈥淎 big revelation for me was probably that although YouTube has an absolute wealth of info, sadly the people making YouTube videos about photography tend not to be the people whose work I admire鈥hose people tend to be out taking photographs.鈥 For those looking to take up photography, Gondalia鈥檚 tip is to 鈥渞everse engineer鈥 great photographs, like the ones you admire on Instagram鈥攁nd always keeps a camera on hand in case inspiration strikes. Advances in digital photography help ease the learning curve: 鈥淚 couldn鈥檛 have gotten nearly as competent as I have in the time period I did if I were still working in film.鈥

The Best Settings: Gondalia never shoots in a studio. 鈥淒ogs are so context dependent. My shoots have all been in-house, in backyards, at dog parks, on the owner鈥檚 typical walk鈥攑laces the dog is going to feel comfortable and excited.鈥

What His Week Looks Like: 鈥淚 tend to be shooting Saturday and Sundays鈥攎ost people are working Monday through Friday and aren鈥檛 around to let me hang out with the dogs. I like to shoot natural light with dogs, which means early mornings and early afternoons are key. Monday through Friday, I鈥檓 able to be out skiing in the morning. By afternoon, I鈥檓 back at my computer and catching up on editing. I鈥檝e worked as a guide, where every day is really different and every day you鈥檙e outside playing, and that鈥檚 the kind of life I want to live. Being a photographer definitely facilitates that.鈥

What Makes a Professional Dog Portrait Special: 鈥淓verybody can take great shots of dogs: you take the derpiest photo of the derpiest dog and people will love it! But what I really like to do is capture moments that owners really appreciate and owners will really see, because they spend 24/7 with these animals. Being able to get that level of emotional conversation with a dog in a few hours is hard. You have to work with the dog to figure out where in the house it likes to hang out, and where it likes to go in the yard, and what it likes to do鈥攇et it really comfortable and put it back in its natural habitat to get the shots.鈥

鈥淲hen you shoot portraits of people, the person stands still. Dogs don鈥檛 care!鈥

A Typical Shoot: Gondalia often spends three to four hours with a dog per shoot. 鈥淚 think it takes at least an hour, an hour and a half to get the dog where I want them to be,鈥 he says. He never starts with the lens cap off while the dog, usually fascinated by this new person, works through its initial excitement. 鈥淚 bring all my equipment in. I leave it in a corner鈥ventually, the owner gets bored and leaves me alone, the dog will calm down, and at that point the cameras come out.鈥

The key to getting a successful shot, Gondalia says, is 鈥渟pending time with the dog to learn its habits and patterns. That way, you can construct shots, and then sit around and anticipate those moments. You have to be really patient about waiting for dogs to be in the right place with the right expression at the right time while you have everything set up correctly. It takes a lot more patience than people realize.鈥

Embracing the Unpredictability: 鈥淲hen you shoot portraits of people, the person stands still. Dogs don鈥檛 care! When I鈥檓 shooting with multiple lenses, when the dog is [near] me I have one lens. Then the dog runs across the yard and I need a different lens. Then the dog鈥檚 in the light, but by the time I get the right lens in the camera and everything鈥檚 focused, the dog is gone.鈥 Gondalia brings multiple lenses and studies each dog鈥檚 movements to anticipate good shots.

There's More Where This Came From.

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Making It in the Saturated Market of Photography: 鈥淭en years ago, you could be a good climber or a good skier and a great photographer and make your way in that world. But these days, you need to be on the level of professional athletes to be photographing. You need to be on participatory climbing trips and participatory skiing adventures that allow you to get those shots that people will pay for. I鈥檇 like to keep climbing as a thing where I don鈥檛 have to be really strong and I don鈥檛 have to be really good at it every day just to support my livelihood.鈥

Seasonal Gig: Gondalia returns to Wyoming each summer to guide at Devil鈥檚 Tower, mentored by climbing legend Frank Sanders. 鈥淚鈥檝e been working for Frank a couple of years, and this last season I had this great, really long lens. From the [Devil鈥檚 Tower Lodge] deck, you can see the top of the tower, and I could see there were a lot of people standing there鈥 started taking pictures of clients when I wasn鈥檛 guiding, and people loved them! I started selling them. I ended up making more from those photographs than from guiding.鈥

Building a Business: Gondalia advertises his work only through word-of-mouth, his website, and his company鈥檚 Instagram, . 鈥淚 feel like I鈥檓 inventing a market. I鈥檓 selling people a product they don鈥檛 realize they want yet. I鈥檓 at the point where people are getting prints of dogs up on their walls. My hope now is their friends will come over and have that a-ha moment: 鈥極h, this is something I want.鈥欌

Another Use for All Your Dog Photos: 鈥淚 have an unreal number of pictures of my dog. At this point, I feel bad for my friends because I don鈥檛 use emojis anymore. I just have emojis of every expression of my dog. It鈥檚 a little embarrassing.鈥

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Today’s Toughest Dream Job: Environmental Attorney /outdoor-adventure/environment/what-its-be-environmental-lawyer-about-take-trump/ Wed, 08 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/what-its-be-environmental-lawyer-about-take-trump/ Today's Toughest Dream Job: Environmental Attorney

Janette Brimmer works for the nonprofit environmental law firm Earthjustice, which has already started planning challenges to the new administration.

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Today's Toughest Dream Job: Environmental Attorney

The lawyers at the nonprofit law firm have been behind countless , representing, pro bono, indigenous nations and local governments to powerhouse environmental organizations like the Sierra Club and the Natural Resources Defense Council. So what did Earthjustice attorney Janette Brimmer think when Trump was elected? 鈥淚鈥檓 going to be honest,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 look at the change of administration coming in, and I think, 鈥極h my god. This is going to be really hard.鈥欌

Brimmer鈥檚 litigation largely focuses on the Clean Water Act. Along with the rest of Earthjustice鈥檚 Pacific Northwest office, she鈥檚 spent an outsized amount of time in recent years fighting the coal, oil, and natural gas transportation and infrastructure projects cropping up in the region since North Dakota鈥檚 Bakken boom. Despite the major challenges in defending those regulations in the Trump administration, Brimmer remains passionate about her work. 鈥淭his is a dream job,鈥 says the lifelong outdoors enthusiast. 鈥淲ho goes to law school and gets to do this?鈥

Job: Staff attorney at Earthjustice
Age: 55
Hometown: Madison, Wisconsin
Current City: Seattle, Washington
Legal Specialties: Clean water; national parks and wilderness protection; coal export terminals.
Weekday Hours: 7:30 a.m. until 5 p.m. (Unless she鈥檚 in court, which happens at least every few months.)
Caseload: Four to five active cases at any given time, plus another five or so on the back burner.
Favorite Flower: Monkshood
Favorite Place to Hike: The North Cascades, with her partner and their dogs. 鈥淲e prefer less-visited, more-rugged places.鈥
Major Hobby: Gardening
Hero Environmentalist: Aldo Leopold. (Brimmer went to Aldo Leopold Elementary School as a kid.)

Outdoor Roots and Precocious Activism: 鈥淚 grew up in a very blue-collar, working-class family. I was the first person to go to college in my family, on either side. My family was into the outdoors: a strong hunting and fishing tradition, a very strong camping tradition. We had this little shack in the woods鈥攔eally, nothing more than a shack, no plumbing and no lights鈥攖hat I adored. I spent all my childhood vacations camping. It was just a part of me from day one.

鈥淚 was a kid in the 1970s, the environmental decade. I was in school when the first Earth Day happened. Honest to god, when I was in third grade, I organized some of my friends in a sleepover to do anti-pollution signs and buttons, and then took them to school and said to the teacher, 鈥榃ouldn鈥檛 it be a great idea if the whole class wore these? And picked up trash on the playground?鈥欌

The Early Wave of Environmental Law: Though major environmental laws like the Clean Water and Air Acts were passed in the 1970s, the practice of environmental law didn鈥檛 pick up steam until the early 鈥90s. 鈥淭丑别re weren鈥檛 any environmental law classes when I was in school in the mid-鈥80s! There was one that the antitrust professor taught to be a good guy,鈥 Brimmer says. As environmental law has expanded its scope and the frequency of courtroom challenges has increased, Brimmer says that lawyers have seen 鈥渕ore of a backlash from industry than we did earlier.鈥

Her Typical Workday: 鈥淎 lot of emails! Unless I鈥檓 in court that day, I鈥檓 probably writing something. And, like any law job, doing legal research, keeping up on what鈥檚 happening. If I am going to court, I do mock arguments in the office. My colleagues are probably harder on me than any judge has ever been. We just go for it. They play judge, and I have to get up there and argue and answer really hard questions. They just keep throwing it at you for two-hour stretches. We hire some of the top lawyers, and we have to be the best when we go to court. We don鈥檛 want anyone to think less of us because 鈥極h, gosh, they work for free,鈥 or 鈥極h, it鈥檚 those lefty-enviro types.鈥欌

鈥淚鈥檓 going to be honest, I look at the change of administration coming in, and I think, 鈥極h my god. This is going to be really hard.鈥欌

Finding a Work-Life Balance: 鈥淵ou may not be able to avoid doing a lot of work, so you might as well care a lot about what you do. When you go through periods where you鈥檙e eating and breathing what you鈥檙e doing, you start to feel like that鈥檚 normal. Then you get to a time when you can finally take a breath, and you think, I don鈥檛 have enough work to do.鈥

Taking on Challenges: 鈥淲e know that the hard, protracted cases are the ones where it鈥檚 more difficult for people to find lawyers, so we purposefully take those on. But that sometimes means that your success rate鈥攚ell, it can be a grind. In fact, we have amazing success, and that鈥檚 great, but the ones you don鈥檛 [win], that鈥檚 a hard day.鈥

Brimmer and her colleagues also work on issues with effects and urgency that are not always immediately apparent. 鈥淚t鈥檚 easy to see a clear-cut forest. People can understand that,鈥 she says. But air pollution is a different story. Brimmer recently argued , a coal plant that she says obscured air quality and visibility in 11 national parks and wilderness areas. 鈥淵ou might not know that if you鈥檝e never visited Grand Canyon, and you don鈥檛 realize that you鈥檙e supposed to be able to see rim to rim on most days, and you think you鈥檙e seeing something amazing because you have no basis for comparison鈥攂ut in fact, it鈥檚 obscured by pollution.鈥

On Facing the Next Four Years: 鈥淭丑别re are days that you just want to crawl under your desk, because it鈥檚 so emotionally and intellectually difficult when you care about it that much. It鈥檚 hard. It鈥檚 an uphill battle.鈥 The good news is that Brimmer has observed Earthjustice receiving an uptick in positive feedback鈥斺攕ince the election. And that鈥檚 making a difference. 鈥淒efinitely, support groups that you think are doing good work, that may feel indirect, but it is a big deal in terms of getting the work done,鈥 Brimmer says. Among the organizations that Brimmer supports are the National Resources Defense Council, Audubon, Puget Soundkeeper Alliance, Trustees for Alaska, Oregon Wild, and the Minnesota Center for Environmental Advocacy.

What Ordinary People Can Do (Besides Donate): 鈥淏e informed, show up, and be heard. Many environmental decisions and policies require public comment. Be informed ahead of time, and submit written comments or comment at a hearing. (I think written comments are more effective.) Make sure your legislators at both the state and federal level know. Stay informed on Earthjustice or other organizations鈥 websites, as they often have information you can use to make informed comments. And finally, be a good steward yourself鈥攖hose little everyday things can add up.鈥

How She Unwinds: 鈥淟ast summer, after spending five weeks at trial鈥攚hich came on the heels of an already busy year鈥擨 went backpacking in the Cascades for two weeks, which really helped. But it doesn't always take a big ol鈥 backpack trip. It can also be spending time with my dogs in a city park or gardening. I鈥檝e been living in Seattle for close to nine years, and the fact that I can see the Olympic Mountains on my walk to my bus stop is freaking amazing. I will still get enjoyment from walking my dogs at dusk in the wintertime, when the sky happens to be purple, if it鈥檚 clear like it is right now, and the moon is out. That alone can make me feel really good.鈥

On What It Will Take to Protect Our Environment: 鈥淭丑别 law is an incredible tool. It is something that the powers-that-be tend to wield鈥攁nd wield very well. We need it to fight back.鈥 But the law, Brimmer says, is not the only tool environmentalists and outdoors enthusiasts need to tap to save the planet. 鈥淚 am one of those people who believes we have to bring all the resources to bear. That includes communications, education, DAPL protests, the public saying hell no, lobbying. It鈥檚 going to take all of them, in a mix, to keep ensuring that the environment is there for generations in a way we can all appreciate and be healthy in.鈥

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