Remember that high school buddy who souped up an old Datsun 510, then went looking for suckers to race? The Taku is his kind of jacket. At first glance this 2005 Gear of the Year pick is just another storm shell, but a closer look reveals a whole lotta functional horsepower.

1. The co-op deploys both “hard” and “soft” fabrics in all the right places, tapes all seams, and pulls off impressive abrasion resistance throughout. Swaths of Elements—REI’s three-layer waterproof-breathable fabric—shed Cascades-grade deluges on hood, shoulders, and cuffs.

2. An inside zipper flap shuts out drafts and keeps this jacket looking sleek, while rubberized pulls make opening and closing effortless, even with chubby gloves.

3. Thanks to stretchy, snug-fitting side panels, the Taku’s hood cinches around both your head and face for a fit that feels custom-molded. Even in the whipping wind at Point Reyes National Seashore, the hood stayed put, my peripheral vision remained clear, and I could actually hear what my friend was saying.

4. A single sidepiece, span- ning from waist to wrist, prevents the Taku from riding up when you reach, midcloudburst, to clamp your bike down on the roof rack. Near-invisible core vents, positioned out of the path of pack straps, afford full access to your base-layer pockets.

5. Go ahead, layer it with a deep-pile fleece. The Taku’s well-tailored, articulated design—seven fabric panels per facing side—won’t make you feel like you’re wearing a snowsuit.

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FLYWEIGHT CONTENDERThe seven-ounce Essence is no sissy, thanks to a tough ripstop nylon fabric. The tapered cut keeps excess fabric from flapping—but a little extra material under the arms keeps the jacket from sneaking up your torso when you go for that just-out-of-reach bolt. This two-layer, welded-seam shell is armed with a coating of waterproof polyurethane, while an inner layer of smooth silk protein fights clam-miness.

Bonus: Reflective tape lit me up at night like the Transamerica Pyramid.

Bummer: The single-point bottom hem has you working the bunched-up fabric around your hips.

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VIKING-TESTEDThis is virtually the national label of Iceland—and for good reason. When it’s raining daggers in Reykjav铆k, this two-layer piece keeps you bone-dry, thanks to an eVENT waterproof-breathable membrane that bars rain and wicks away perspiration. Soft fleece lines the collar and pockets, and a zip-off hood moves with you like it’s welded on. All that, and the tailored cut will carry you from peak to pub.

Bonus: The cuff closures were designed by someone who’s had to wrestle tabs closed with frozen fingers.

Bummer: The collar could cinch down more.

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FULLY LOADED FEATHERWEIGHTEven at a pound and some change, this bombproof feature fest is still worthy of the Lite name. Its three-layer Alchemy3 fabric repels mountaintop precip, while flexible side panels breathe and move with you. Dig the see-through watch window (no more unbundling to check your progress) and the insulating stretch cuffs that do double duty as mittens. Heating up? Ratchet open the two-way pit zips.

Bonus: Push the Wizard into the shoulder season with the integrated balaclava on the back panel.

Bummer: The chest-mounted MP3 pouch is handy—but with no clear panel on the pocket, it’s not so easy to change playlists.

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Next time you’re in Grand Teton or Yellowstone national parks, ditch the maps and try a GAPERGUIDE. Available this August, the new GPS-enabled navigator聴named after a local slang term for tourists聴sits on the dashboard and uses your exact position on any of the two Wyoming parks’ collective 378 miles of roads to select and play one of 700 prerecorded interpretive audio segments through your car’s sound system. “The parks’ roads are so simple, you don’t really need to know where you’re going; you just need to know what you’re seeing,” explains system developer Will Ferguson, 36. Along with partner Katie Lee, 27, Ferguson spent a year gathering the raw material for the guide and then hired a comic to write the script and actors to record it. With facts like “The Chapel of the Sacred Heart was originally named Our Lady of the Tetons, until church members figured out what tetons really means,” you’ll find it at least as entertaining as waiting for Old Faithful to spew. The two plan to expand into other parks, starting with Glacier and Yosemite next year. $35 per day;

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Biking//
Stefan Brinkmann, from Tarifa Bike (011-34-956-681373, ), has an encyclopedic knowledge of the mountains of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, just north of town. He also has a permit that grants access to miles of backcountry singletrack, which weaves through classic Mediterranean cork-oak forests. Try the grueling 3.4-mile ascent of 3,609-foot Pico del Aljibe. Your reward will be a view clear to Morocco. Roadies can climb through the orange and olive groves to the ridgelines of Los Alcornocales Natural Park, then snack on tapas—gazpacho, goat cheese, olives, paella, and fried calamari—while riding from one ancient whitewashed village to the next. Cortijo El Aguil贸n (doubles from $180; 011-34-637-424-251, ), a cozy country inn tucked between the rolling hills just outside Tarifa, is a five-minute spin from the best of the backcountry singletrack. At day’s end, its Turkish bath and spa will rejuvenate your weary quads.

Nightlife//
If you need an energy infusion—locals are so laid back they often don’t show up to kite until late afternoon—buy a ticket for the high-speed FRS ferry (one way, $44; ) from one of the travel agents on Tarifa’s main drag, then take the 35-minute ride across the Strait of Gibraltar to Tangier, Morocco. But don’t stop there. Book a first-class berth on the ONCF ($31; ), a train that will take you 11 hours south to the raucous markets of Marrakesh.

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STRETCHED OUT on the white sand, I watched a Spanish kiteboarding instructor run past me down the beach, yelling, “Work eet! Work eet!” into a walkie-talkie transmitting to the helmet of a tawny Swede ripping her candy–colored kite through the azure sky. Awesome conditions, I thought. I really should get out there—just as soon as I finish my nap.

Welcome to Tarifa, home of the extreme siesta—perhaps the only place in the world where you can climb, bike, and kiteboard all in one day yet still have a hard time finding an open tapas restaurant during the collective afternoon snooze. Strategically located between the Andalusian mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, and a mere eight miles north of Africa across the Strait of Gibraltar, this little nub of southern Spain was named after Berber raider Tarif ibn Malluk, who blew through here in a.d. 710. The town has been considered prime real estate ever since, tempting everyone from the Phoenicians to the Arabs to stake a claim. But the tiny eighth-century Moorish fortress—with its population of 15,000, maze of steep cobblestone streets, and shady courtyards—has remained relatively undisturbed, thanks in part to the ruthless consistency of a blustery 20-mile-per-hour wind. But this breeze, topped off with the town’s Africanized tranquilo vibe, makes windsurfing and kiteboarding enthusiasts ecstatic—so much so that they’ve started up a small juggernaut of rental shops and boutique hotels. Here’s how to make the most of Tarifa and its mighty wind.

Kiteboarding//
Tarifa sits on the exact point where Europe splits the Mediterranean from the Atlantic and where the offshore levanter and onshore poinente winds collide. The happy result? More than 300 days (January through March tends to be rainy) of kiteable breeze. Get a lesson, a massage, and a seaside bedroom or a suite with an adjacent garden at the Moroccan-influenced Hurricane Hotel (doubles from $98; 011-34-956-684919, ), halfway along a series of linked white-sand beaches that start right in town and stretch seven miles north. If you’re already kite-proficient, launch from the table-flat Playa de Los Lances. You’ll have a clear shot all the way across the strait to Tangier. Pro rider Mark Shinn was one of the first to legally make the transcontinental crossing (landing in Morocco requires a permit), in 2001.

Climbing//
Legend has it that the gap between Europe and Africa was pushed open by Hercules—which might explain the multipitch limestone crag at San Bartolo. Check in with Girasol Outdoor Company (011-34-615-456506, ) for intel on the latest of the 250 sport routes, rated 5.6 to 5.14; time your visit to coincide with one of their monthly full-moon climbing trips. From the top of the 262-foot Placas Grandes route, you can spot Morocco’s 8,000-foot Rif range, and the ruined remains of the Roman village of Baelo Claudia are just one bay away.

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IN THE FIELD Sit around the campfire in your shell and you’ll be risking more than just molten-marshmallow stains; smoke can clog the fabric’s pores, compromising a jacket’s breathability. Your jacket’s durable water-repellent (DWR) coating will eventually need a jump start: Washing with a mild powder detergent and ironing—steam on a warm setting—will restore its effectiveness. You can redistribute a jacket’s DWR coating by tossing it in a warm dryer. Skip the Bounce, though: Fabric softeners can undermine water repellency.

IN THE FUTURE Following in the footsteps of W. L. Gore—which cut all toxic chemicals from its production lines back in the eighties—Patagonia will release the Eco Storm this fall. This waterproof shell will be made of 100 percent post-consumer polyester, with a solvent-free waterproof finish: the first fully nontoxic recycled jacket on the market—and, we hope, not the last.

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COLORADO :: ASPEN & ASPEN HIGHLANDS

FORGET THE FURS AND THE FENDI. Beyond the bling, Aspen is still America’s quintessential ski village, a funky cosmos where World Cup steeps belong to the fearless.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Where else can you sit next to Kurt and Goldie while wolfing lunchtime bratwurst, then follow the sun around Bell Mountain’s bumps for the rest of the afternoon?
NUMBER-ONE RUN: The finest float in Colorado? Atop Aspen Highlands is the 40-degree, 1,500-vertical-foot Highland Bowl. After the hike up, and before the glorious, seemingly endless descent, rest your bones in the summit swing and feast on high-octane views of fourteeners Pyramid Peak and Maroon Bells.
HOT LODGE: Chichi yet cool, luxe yet Lab-friendly, the St. Regis Aspen features s’mores in its cozy apr猫s-ski lounge, beds for beloved canines, and a spanking-new 15,000-square-foot spa-complete with a little something called the Confluence, artificial hot springs where more than the waters mingle. (Doubles from $385; 888-454-9005, )
SOUL PATCH: Tucked in the trees on Aspen Mountain are shrines to Elvis, Jerry Garcia, Marilyn Monroe, and, of course, Liberace. But Walsh’s Run, one of the steepest drops on Ajax, is where you’ll find sacred ground: The Raoul Wille shrine, a tiny shack festooned with prayer flags and elk bones, honors a longtime local who died climbing in Nepal.

NEW MEXICO :: TAOS

Taos Ski Resort

A GROOVY CONVERGENCE of Native American culture, ski-hard style, and the freest of spirits, Taos is the black diamond in New Mexico’s high-desert crown, offering steep transcendence (and lots of green chile) in the wild, wild West.
WHY WE LOVE IT: 隆Viva variedad! Park your journeyman Subaru wagon or beat Jeep CJ right next to that limited-edition Mercedes with the Texas plates鈥攖hey’ll appreciate the contrast. Then look heavenward and feast your begoggled eyes on runs so close to vertical they’ll steal your heart (or sink it, if you’re toting a prohibited snowboard).
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Longhorn, a lengthy and snaky double black, shoots between palisades of tall pines, dropping 1,900 vertical feet to a catwalk that spits you out at the base. Masochists should save it for the end of the day, when the bumps are the size of small igloos.
HOT LODGE: In the heart of town is a grand adobe abode called the Fechin Inn, built beside Russian artist Nicolai Fechin’s former home, a 1927 structure listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The elegant, Jacuzzi-equipped 84-room hotel is just a hop, skip, and a jump from the Adobe Bar, current home of wicked margaritas. (Doubles, $114-$208; 800-746-2761, )
SOUL PATCH: Dog-tired and depleted? Stop off at art-infested Taos Pizza Outback, where the cooks spin tasty sesame-sprinkled crusts, blank canvases just waiting for your own creative topping conglomerations.

WYOMING :: JACKSON HOLE

DUDE, IT’S LIKE MECCA. If you take sliding around on snow seriously, you’ll eventually make a pilgrimage to the Hole. Hardcore types rightfully revere the sick Wyoming vertical, heavy powder showers, and Euro-style open backcountry. Yep, this is the place . . . to pack a shovel, transceiver, probe, and change of underwear.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Rip, rip, rip all you want: The harder and stronger you ride, the more these Tetons throw at you. And once you think you’re the master, listen for the laughter coming from the lines that have yet to see a descent.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: You’ll find the finest fall-line skiing in the country here, so steel yourself for the best run of the bunch: The Hobacks is 3,000 vertical feet of crazy steeps. Enjoy.
HOT LODGE: When legendary ski mountaineer and cinematographer Rob DesLauriers got sick of living out of his van, he built the new Teton Mountain Lodge, a premium slopeside property with rustic Wyoming written all over it. Just don’t let the high-end accommodations and dining fool you; Rob’s still a ski bum at heart. (Doubles, $149-$329; 800-801-6615, )
SOUL PATCH: The Mangy Moose remains Jackson Hole’s must-hit saloon. The bleary-eyed crew from Teton Gravity Research, pros decked out in next year’s wares, and perma-tan instructors call this place home. But don’t fear the locals; just get what they’re having.

UTAH :: PARK CITY

LIKE ST. MORITZ WITH MORMONS, Park City is not only a vast powdery playground; it’s a true ski-in/ski-out town with big-city swank. After you’ve zonked your mortal coil dropping off cornices and carving down chutes, head to town and knock back an espresso: You have to be awake to enjoy the finer things.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Oh, the mountain comes off as harmless at first鈥攚hat with those rolling hills flush with cruisers鈥攂ut it drops the hammer a couple lifts in, making for delighted schussers, from expert on down. There’s terrain-park action, and the superior lift service (14 chairs, including four high-speed six-packs) can move more than 27,000 butts an hour.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Not for the timid or the kamikaze, O-zone drops 1,000 feet off the lip of Pinyon Ridge, down a 30- to 40-degree face, before delivering you into forgiving tree trails that lead to a high-speed six heading right back up.
HOT LODGE: Right on chic Main Street is the Treasure Mountain Inn, a locals-owned lodge with a great little caf茅. This eco-minded pad has a range of homey accommodations, from simple studios to decked-out apartments, as well as a Jacuzzi and heated pool beneath the stars. (Studios, $125-$300; 800-344-2460, )
SOUL PATCH: Once a wild silver town, Park City’s gone all civilized. The high-end gastronomic fusion served up at 350 Main will have you double-checking your coordinates鈥攁nd for boozophobic Utah, the cocktails are mighty sinful.

BRITISH COLUMBIA :: WHISTLER BLACKCOMB

DOUBLY HEINOUS STEEPS mean twice the fun at Whistler Blackcomb, home to the biggest vertical in North America and an astounding variety of snow conditions. Sister peaks, these British Columbia bad girls practically flaunt their grand vert, true glacier skiing, and leg-burner runs up to seven miles long.
WHY WE LOVE IT: By virtue of the vast and varied terrain (larger than Vail and Aspen combined), this resort has always drawn a cosmopolitan crowd. The number of rowdy young immigrants will surely redouble as opening day of the 2010 Winter Olympics approaches. And the village is at only 2,140 feet, so sea-level folk can let loose without fearing hypoxia-empowered hangovers.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: These peaks have long been a favorite stop on the World Cup circuit, thanks in part to the exhilarating 1.5-mile highway known as the Dave Murray Downhill, which rolls off the south shoulder to Whistler’s base.
HOT LODGE: The Fairmont Chateau Whistler is a wonderland of sprawling penthouses and romantic turrets at the foot of Blackcomb Mountain. Luckily, there are more than two dozen bistros and nightclubs nearby to tempt you out of your mountain-view room on the stormier nights. (Doubles, $256-$446; 800-606-8244, )
SOUL PATCH: From the top of Horstman Glacier, traverse under the summit cliffs and cross the ridgeline via Spanky’s Ladder. This brings you to a trove of hidden chutes plunging through a cliff band down to Blackcomb Glacier.

CALIFORNIA :: MAMMOTH

THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA VIBE dominates Mammoth, reflecting surf culture at its most authentic. Witness the resort’s massive superpipe and meticulously sculpted terrain parks, home turf of snowboard phenoms like Tara Dakides, Shaun White, and Olympic silver medalist Danny Kass.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Rising high in the eastern Sierra, this hill is surrounded by the Ansel Adams and John Muir wilderness areas, and Yosemite’s just a few valleys north. The volcanic terrain, nice and steep everywhere you look, gets layers of prime frosting from Pacific storms that drop up to four feet of snow at a time. Otherwise, it’s clear blue skies.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: From the summit, drop off the back side and hike to fantastic Hemlock Bowl: Ski left and follow the signs (or locals), then enjoy Mammoth’s deepest shots. Afterwards, hop on Chair 14 and rest up for another hike. Repeat.
HOT LODGE: If cookie-cutter condos don’t do it for you, check out Mammoth Country Inn, a Bavarian-style bed-and-breakfast. The seven rooms feature bedding worthy of royalty, and two have Jacuzzis. Your hosts, the Weinerts, serve up home-style breakfasts, and it’s just a short scamper to the bus. (Doubles, $145-$185; 866-934-2710, )
SOUL PATCH: Geothermal springs with panoramic mountain vistas, anyone? South of town, just east of Highway 395, Hot Creek gloriously blends a f-f-freezing stream and feverish springs. (Stay out of the scalding stuff.) Sadly, panties are mandatory here. But you can drop your drawers at wilder hot spots like Hilltop and Crab Cooker.

COLORADO :: STEAMBOAT

SOMETIMES COLORADO’S I-70 is a bit, well, constipated, so head for secluded Steamboat, some two hours north. We’re talking relentless powder, some of the West’s best tree skiing, and a chill ambience鈥攐n the slopes and back at the lodge.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Located in the Park Range鈥攚here Pacific-born storms usually hit first in Colorado鈥擲teamboat soaks up heavy snow dumps that often skip peaks to the south and east. And many of the aspens are perfectly spaced, as if a gift from God. From the mountain, take a free shuttle the three miles to tiny, colorful Steamboat Springs, where you’ll find a surprising slew of kick-back bars and upscale eats.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Step into the Closet, a forested roller coaster spilling down the west side of Storm Peak, and shake off the dust. Just make sure you’ve got your turns dialed鈥攁nd wear a helmet.
HOT LODGE: Across from the gondola, the plush 327-room Steamboat Grand Resort Hotel serves up a deluxe spa, a fitness center with steam bath, an elegant steak-and-chop house, quiet rooms replete with hardwood furniture, and a cavernous stone lobby with, yep, a stream running through it. (Doubles from $159; 877-269-2628, )
SOUL PATCH: On the Grand’s spacious deck, which looks out on 8,239-foot Emerald Mountain, two truly giant Jacuzzis and a heated outdoor pool offer some of the most luxuriant apr猫s-ski lounging in the Rockies.

MONTANA :: BIG SKY

Big Sky Ski Resort

LONE MOUNTAIN ERUPTS from the Madison Range like an 11,194-foot catcher’s mitt, nabbing storms swollen with dry Rocky Mountain powder. The utter lack of lines just sweetens the pot. With almost twice as many acres as skiers, Big Sky virtually guarantees instant lift access all day long.
WHY WE LOVE IT: You can dress like a cowboy鈥攗nironically鈥攁nd then snorkel through the fresh, pausing to ogle the remote 10,000-foot summits of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness. Come night, it gets so dark you can see the band of the Milky Way splitting the sky.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Off Lone Mountain’s south face, roar almost 3,000 vertical feet down the ridiculously wide Liberty Bowl and through the Bavarian Forest, where you can bob and weave through spruce and fir.
HOT LODGE: Want quintessential Montana? Rent a log cabin with a hot tub on the deck: The Powder Ridge Cabins have woodstoves, vaulted ceilings, and a lift nearby. (Cabin with three doubles, $525-$772; 800-548-4486, )
SOUL PATCH: See what “big sky” really means: The tram up to the peak offers an eagle’s view of the resort’s most daring lines, plus thousands of square miles of wilderness. Watch a local work the Big Couloir鈥攁 50-by-1,500-foot lick of 48-degree terror鈥攁nd it won’t be just the views stealing your breath.

UTAH :: ALTA & SNOWBIRD

Snowbird Ski Resort

THESE PEAKS ARE THE ODD COUPLE of mountain resorts鈥攖hink hardcore Alta dudes and snazzy Snowbird debs鈥攂ut their souls are united by heavenly powder.
WHY WE LOVE IT: In a word, the white stuff. At Little Cottonwood Canyon, the light-and-dry goods are nonpareil. The evidence? When the Ringling Bros. circus sued Utah for using the slogan “The Greatest Snow on Earth,” the case went all the way to the Supreme Court鈥攁nd Utah won.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: A long, technical traverse perches you atop Alf’s High Rustler, a 40-degree, 2,000-foot pitch aimed straight at the Alta parking lot. Legend has it that veteran ski-school director Alf Engen once bombed the whole run, with nothing but nipple-deep powder to slow his mad descent.
HOT LODGE: Snowbird’s Iron Blosam threads the ski-lodge needle: It’s got all the perks of a high-end hotel鈥攖wo-story windows, private decks, full kitchens, and an outdoor hot tub-but it’s steeped in a laid-back atmosphere that reminds you of a family cabin in the mountains. (Doubles, $249-$539; 800-453-3000, )
SOUL PATCH: After Snowbird’s last tram heads down for the day, don’t be afraid to join the contingent of ski-crazy locals who gather at the top of Lone Pine for what is usually a low-key party, then take in the sublime view of the spectacular, canyon-framed sunset.

VERMONT :: STOWE

IT’S THE BARNS AND COVERED BRIDGES draped with snow that tip you off: You’re in classic Vermont. This historic resort hails from the hungry thirties, but you’ll be plenty satisfied. With just 4,000 or so permanent residents, Stowe’s got small-town soul galore, and the mountain tempts with wild, winding expert runs鈥攁nd a slew of less challenging ones.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Time has made Stowe a giant on the eastern ski scene, with the help of 4,393-foot Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak. You can’t beat it for nordic action: The Touring Center at Trapp Family Lodge (owned by a member of the singing von Trapp clan, of The Sound of Music fame) features excellent trails. And where would snowboarding be without a certain resident named Jake Burton?
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Test your mettle on the famous Front Four鈥擭ational, Lift Line, Starr, and Goat鈥攖he mountain’s snaking double-black centerpieces. Prepare to be humbled.
HOT LODGE: Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the sumptuously restored Green Mountain Inn pumps up the luxe with modern accoutrements like gas fireplaces, marble bathrooms, Jacuzzis, and a heated outdoor pool. Forget fatigue with a Swedish deep-tissue massage鈥攐r have hot cider and homemade cookies by the blazing fire. (Doubles from $125; 800-253-7302, )
SOUL PATCH: Get a little wacky with the locals during the Stowe Winter Carnival, in late January: Among other fun, there’s off-season volleyball, a snow-golf tournament (costume required, natch), and the chilly Wintermeister triathlon.

COLORADO :: VAIL & BEAVER CREEK

TALK ABOUT HIGH CONTRAST: These resorts may be virtually side by side, but they don’t see eye to eye. Vail is the gold standard for manicured pistes and big bowls, regularly making it one of the country’s most popular destinations, while Beaver Creek is more of a sedate escape with a profusion of secret stashes.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Via the combo of dry snow and friendly terrain, intermediates feel advanced鈥攁nd experts feel untouchable (if they didn’t already). Roughly half of the resorts’ vast terrain is taken up by the famous Back Bowls, at Vail, and Beaver Creek’s long, challenging Talons, many of which cut through the trees.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: On Vail’s Ledges, the steep bits run 300 feet, then level out and let you regain your wind, then drop another 300, and so on鈥攄escending for more than a mile, all the way home. At Beaver Creek, Harrier rolls off the west shoulder of Spruce Saddle, becoming a wide, hilly cruiseway perfectly pitched for GS turns.
HOT LODGE: The Austrian-style Hotel Gasthof Gramshammer has been au courant for 40 years. The 38 rooms are arrayed with knee-deep down comforters and traditional woodwork, game dishes are served up in the cozy Antlers dining room, and high indulgence awaits at the steam room, sauna, and two indoor hot tubs. (Doubles, $195-$245; 800-610-7374, )
SOUL PATCH: Don’t miss the Colorado Ski Museum: Dig the roots of modern snow sports and revisit such luminaries as World War II heroes/powder hounds the Tenth Mountain Division, among others.

CALIFORNIA & NEVADA :: HEAVENLY

CAN YOU SAY GIGANTIC? Good, because that’s what Heavenly is. Plus it can claim some of the most ravishing views of any American ski hill: It rests in the limbo between the supernatural blue of Lake Tahoe and the scorched Nevada desert far below.

WHY WE LOVE IT: Nobody skis off-piste on this mountain! A private wonderland awaits those who venture into the trees or take a little hike, but if you want to stay on track, you’ll find that the sheer immensity (almost 5,000 acres) spreads out the skiers nicely. Besides, the groomers are like boulevards鈥攁nd just as smooth鈥攕o you can really dig your turns here.

NUMBER-ONE RUN: The Milky Way Bowl, a ten-minute hike up the Skyline Trail, has a steady vertical drop and an utter dearth of other souls. Continue down the chutes of Mott Canyon and have a chuckle at the expense of all the schnooks who ever turned their noses up at this peak.

HOT LODGE: Heavenly’s speedy gondola is two minutes from Lake Tahoe’s Embassy Suites Hotel, very cushy digs with a dizzying nine-story atrium, glass roof, flourishing gardens, and 400 two-room suites. (Suites from $200; 877-497-8483, )

SOUL PATCH: The spectacle of Caesars Tahoe is Disneyland for the savvy gambler. A nonstop bacchanal revolves around slot machines, top-notch shows, and the ubiquitous gaming tables鈥攂ut without that Vegas overkill. When in Rome . . .

ALBERTA :: LAKE LOUISE

JAW-DROPPING vistas of Banff National Park greet the lucky folks up top of Canada’s biggest ski area, and world-class terrain awaits below.
WHY WE LOVE IT: This place splits styles: At the south side’s terrain park, huck junkies can air their grievances with gravity while fans of pure carving hit the quieter north face to ride the bowls.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Take the SUMMIT Platter up 8,765-foot Mount Whitehorn and cruise Brown Shirt, taking in views of the Bow Valley. Or head out from the Larch area, locate Lookout Chute, and disappear into the trees鈥攋ust make sure you reappear.
HOT LODGE: From the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, gaze out at the glacier-fed namesake lake. To fight off the Canadian chill, try steaming truffle fondue at the hotel’s Walliser Stube; wash that fungus down with some ice wine, made from grapes frozen on the vine. (Doubles, $344; 800-441-1414, www .fairmont.com/lakelouise)
SOUL PATCH: With faraway Victoria Glacier as backdrop, a spin on Lake Louise’s skating rink makes for high entertainment. During January’s ice-carving competition, you can see frozen stars like Winnie the Pooh, then toast marshmallows at the braziers nearby. (Appropriately enough, the silly old bear has been quoted as saying, “Fight fire with marshmallows.”)

COLORADO :: TELLURIDE

A TRUE COWBOY TOWN where down jackets thankfully outnumber mink stoles, Telluride still caters to the glamorous. Spot a hot starlet living it up in one of downtown’s ritzy establishments? Big whoop鈥攗nless she was thrashing her guide in the steep and deep earlier.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Due to its remote setting鈥攖here’s just one road leading into this southwestern Colorado box canyon-the mountain always gets far fewer folks than it’s designed to handle. So the queues are quick, the runs pretty much empty, and the midmountain bartenders not too busy. NUMBER ONE RUN: As you float, fly, or surf down the three ridgeline miles of See Forever, looking 100 or so miles west toward Utah’s La Sal Mountains, you are permitted, though not really encouraged, to holler corny lines from Titanic, like “I’m on top of the wooorld!”
HOT LODGE: Live it up at Wyndham Peaks Resort & Golden Door Spa: Think king-size beds, homemade cookies on your pillow (if you ask nicely), and the San Juan Mountains out your window. Head to the spa and baby your fried quads by soaking them in the 102-degree mineral pool鈥攑erfect prep for a 50-minute Skier Salvation massage. (Doubles from $229; 970-728-6800, )
SOUL PATCH: Melt into an overstuffed leather chair, order a horseradishy bloody mary, and toast tomorrow in Wyndham Peaks’ high-ceilinged great room. That’s good medicine.

MONTANA :: BIG MOUNTAIN

CRAVE A COCKTAIL of wide-open groomers, perfectly spaced trees, and backcountryesque meadows? Look no further than crowdless Big Mountain. And with lots of off-piste powder stashes just waiting, it’s no wonder so many of the snow junkies here sport free heels.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Monster storms transform the mountain’s evergreens into “snow ghosts,” and locals鈥攕uited up in polyester straight out of the Carter era鈥攍ove to rip through this hoary host. And it doesn’t hurt that the skyline’s fraught with the lofty peaks of the Canadian Rockies, Glacier National Park, and the Great Bear Wilderness.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: East of North Bowl, you’ll find hundreds of feet of superb vertical, starting with the Nose, then continuing down two shots known as Performance and the Chin. Don’t look for these last two on the map, though: After hogging all that fluffy stuff, you won’t want to tell anyone, either.
HOT LODGE: The ski-in/ski-out Kandahar lodge, right off the mountain, just screams Montana. Think wooden beams, a river-rock fireplace, and rustic rooms with lofts and a bunch of primo down sleeping gear. (Doubles, $109-$309; 800-862-6094, )
SOUL PATCH: When the lifts shut down, the planks and boards stack up outside the Bierstube, where you’ll find local folks swilling pints of Moose Drool beside Seattle techniks escaping the city for the weekend. Be sure to ask your barkeep for one of the ‘Stube’s mysterious souvenir rings鈥攊t’s a surprise鈥攖hen tip at least 20 percent. But you knew that.

CALIFORNIA :: ALPINE MEADOWS

ALL MOUNTAIN AND NO ATTITUDE, Northern California’s Alpine Meadows is designed to take maximum advantage of the spectacular terrain. Though it’s got that laid-back, down-to-earth vibe the West is known for, it’s certainly no bore; far from it. It simply lacks the attendant aggression of resorts with similarly radical steeps.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Chutes and rock bands line this High Sierra bowl, spilling out into gentle grades鈥攕o there’s something here for all skill levels. The hike-to skiing and open-boundary policy (not found at neighboring Squaw Valley) equal acres and acres of untouched snow, and the hill’s south side is enormous, wide-open, and drenched with sunshine in the morning.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Palisades, a classic double black diamond off the Alpine Bowl lift, looks skyscraper-steep once you’re staring down it, but fear not: Since it’s north-facing, the snow’s way silky.
HOT LODGE: From the lifts, it’s just a quick ten minutes to the unbeatable Resort at Squaw Creek, with its 403 fine rooms, four restaurants (ranging from diner fare to haute cuisine), outdoor swimming pool, Jacuzzis, and nearby recreation like dogsledding and sleigh rides. (Doubles, $229-$349; 800-403-4434, )
SOUL PATCH: The northern ridge, beyond Estelle Bowl, may take a quarter of an hour to hike and traverse to, but the sweet silence and enormous cedars you’ll find will make you forget the trip. As will the powder.

UTAH :: THE CANYONS

A DECADE BACK, the resort that would become the Canyons was a pretty shabby, and not too popular, locals hill. Now it’s the biggest, most unabashedly go-go resort in Utah-and, miraculously, it’s crowd-free.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Besides the sharp new base village, it’s got the real goods: Days after other Wasatch resorts are all skied out, you’ll still be finding powder stashes hidden among the鈥攃ount ’em鈥攅ight peaks.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Take the hike up Murdock Peak right off the Super Condor Express Lift, then choose from among seven tempting lines. You’re bound to find your favorite flavor: steep glade, wide-open bowl, or gnarly chute?
HOT LODGE: When NBC’s Katie Couric and Matt Lauer wanted posh digs for their two-week Olympics gig, they picked the deluxe Grand Summit Resort Hotel鈥攆or good reason. After a soak in your jetted tub, survey the scene at the heated outdoor pool below, and the rest of Summit County, from the bay windows flanking your fireplace. And, of course, there’s the supreme access: If the gondola were any closer, it would be inside. (Doubles, $279; 888-226-9667, )
SOUL PATCH: Take a snowcat-drawn sleigh to midmountain, cross-country or snowshoe it through the woods, and hit the resort’s secluded Viking Yurt for a delectable five-course Scandinavian feast. Go ahead and carbo-load鈥攁fterwards, the snowcat will drag you right back down to base.

OREGON :: MT. BACHELOR

THE U.S. FOREST SERVICE gave top skier Bill Healy, of the Army’s Tenth Mountain Division, permission to put three rope tows up the face of central Oregon’s Bachelor Butte way back in 1958. Since then, his dream come true, now known as Mt. Bachelor, has grown to 71 runs serviced by ten lifts. And for those seeking big air, there are three terrain parks.
WHY WE LOVE IT: With as much as 30 feet of snow piling up annually in the mountains of Deschutes National Forest, Mt. Bachelor is one of the Pacific Northwest’s treasures, and an agreement with the Forest Service has spurned commercial development, preserving its wild side.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Head for the Northwest Express chair and exit, if you dare, to Devil’s Backbone, a mettle-testing black diamond. Though steeper up top, it’s good and bumpy almost all the way down its nefarious spine.
HOT LODGE: The Inn of the Seventh Mountain, between Bend and Mt. Bachelor, is the place to sleep if you want first chair the next morning. The lodge-style decor鈥攚ooden beams, fireplaces, leather recliners鈥攋ust oozes cozy, and with the Cascades so close by, grand views are there for the feasting. (Doubles, $135-$195; 800-452-6810, )
SOUL PATCH: Hit the Lodge, in Bend, for pints of local 20″ Brown Ale and scrumptious buffalo burgers. Then make good and sure you patronize the McMenamins folks鈥擥od love ’em鈥攔enovators of, among others, the old St. Francis school in downtown Bend, home to a hotel with Turkish baths, a pub restaurant, and a throwback cinema.

IDAHO :: SUN VALLEY

HOLLYWOOD HOTTIES, Olympic skiers, and John Kerry may flock to sexy Sun Valley these days, but America’s first ski resort has been drawing us hoi polloi since ’36. Swaths of immaculate corduroy run for miles here, so pray your legs last. No sweat if they don’t: French chefs and other fanciness await below.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Fantastic snow- making gear, five-star base facilities, and runs so fast and long you can attempt to break the sound barrier鈥攁fter stuffing your face with beignets, of course.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: Crank the bindings and launch down Warm Springs. After a continuous 3,100-foot vertical loss on a blue groomer, your quads will glow like an Apollo capsule on reentry.
HOT LODGE: Stay in Ketchum, Sun Valley’s neighbor and the epicenter of the apr猫s action. The Best Western Kentwood Lodge, situated right in the mix, has an airy stone-and-wood lobby, big rooms, a hot tub, and a pool. (Doubles, $159-$179; 800-805-1001, )
SOUL PATCH: Clomp into Apple’s Bar and Grill, at the base of Greyhawk, and mingle with folks who packed it in after logging 30,000 feet of vert鈥攂y lunchtime. Notice all the passes tacked to the wall? You could once trade yours for a pitcher of suds. Talk about priorities.

VERMONT :: KILLINGTON

KILLINGTON’S legendarily long season stretches from October through May (sometimes into June), and with seven mountains, the resort has more acreage than any place in the East. Lately, though, Killington’s known as the town that tried to secede鈥攆rom Vermont, not the Union鈥攁 tribute to residents’ fiery, tax-evading Yankee spirit.
WHY WE LOVE IT: Behold the Beast’s 200 runs鈥攊ncluding high-altitude bumps, endless cruisers, terrain parks, and a halfpipe鈥攚hich keep legions of devotees coming back thirsty.
NUMBER-ONE RUN: You don’t have to be an ace to experience the hair-raisingly steep moguls of Outer Limits, on Bear Mountain鈥攋ust grab a pint and watch the wipeouts from the deck of Bear Mountain Base Lodge.
HOT LODGE: Nab yourself some comfy slopeside digs: The Killington Grand Resort Hotel is well worth the substantial change you’ll drop. This 200-roomer offers studios and suites鈥攁ll with kitchens, many with fireplaces鈥攁nd the views from the outdoor Jacuzzis and pool are unbeatable. (Doubles from $150; 877-458-4637, )
SOUL PATCH: It may have turned 40 last year, but the Wobbly Barn still parties like a teenager. This steakhouse-cum-nightclub has a hoppin’ happy hour, live music, and a serious boogie jones.

MONTANA :: MOONLIGHT BASIN

Moonlight Basin Ski Resort

EVERY GOOD SKI AREA has a split personality鈥攑art nurturer, part dominatrix. But no resort behaves more like Jekyll and Hyde than Moonlight Basin, the one-year-old resort 45 miles south of Bozeman that shares a boundary with Big Sky. First it lulls you, then it tries to kill you.

The lull part: Moonlight is a real estate venture, and the kindly blue and black pistes that meander down the north face of 11,194-foot Lone Mountain are tailored to those looking for vacation homes. The new Lone Tree lift will fill out those offerings this winter, adding more than 500 acres of open glades and unintimidating expert runs.

Moonlight’s sadistic side? Just look up: The Headwaters is a forbidding wall striped with nine chutes pinched by bands of sharp shale and scree. Three Forks is the boast-in-the-bar run, a 1,200-foot plummet into Stillwater Bowl that nudges 50 degrees in spots. (Until a lift is built, reaching such lines requires a 25-to-45-minute hike.)

Moonlight Basin can’t yet keep you occupied for a week鈥攖he base area’s swanky lodge doesn’t even have a gear shop or ski school鈥攂ut it’s one more reason to book that trip to Big Sky.

IDAHO :: TAMARACK RESORT

THE VIEWS RECALL TAHOE. And the terrain? Call it Steamboat West. That’s the early line on Tamarack Resort, 90 miles north of Boise, which opens in December. The Tahoe analogy is plain from a 7,700-foot spot on West Mountain’s ridge: Far below, 22-mile-long Lake Cascade glistens in Long Valley. What’s more, the resort sits far enough west to rack up 300 annual inches of snow (100 more than Sun Valley), yet it’s east of Oregon’s high desert, ensuring that the bounty arrives talcum-dry.

Don’t expect Tamarack to max out your Pocket Rockets. The tree skiing in glades of aspen and subalpine fir, and the languorous blue runs that unspool down the mountain’s 2,800 vertical feet, summon Steamboat鈥攄iverting, if not exactly heart-stopping. Snowcat skiing will be offered this year on 500 acres to be made lift-accessible in the next few years. It’s all part of a $1.5 billion plan to make Tamarack a year-round resort with some 2,000 chalets, condos, and hotel rooms. (At press time, just 60 chalets and cottages were available.) For the best apr猫s-ski, head to the old logging town of McCall, 17 miles north.

:: SKI EMOTIONALLY NAKED!

STUCK IN INTERMEDIATEVILLE and dreaming of a transfer to the friendlier slopes of Advanced City? I sure was, so last winter I gambled on a four-day ski clinic in Utah’s Wasatch Range. I was up for anything that would get me closer to black-diamond bliss.

Ski to Live鈥攍aunched in 2003 by extreme queen Kristen Ulmer, at Alta and Snowbird resorts鈥攖akes a uniquely cerebral, holistic approach to improving performance on the slopes, promising nothing less than self-transformation via a cogent blend of hard carving, refreshing yoga, and an intriguing flavor of Zen known as Big Mind. No $200-an-hour therapist ever promised so much.

The 38-year-old Ulmer, veteran of countless ski flicks and former U.S. Freestyle Ski Team member, is a sensitive but sure coach, possessing an infectious buoyancy of spirit that makes every powder acolyte under her wing believe a camera’s rolling just for them over the next mogul. She says conventional instruction is too heavy on mechanics, virtually ignoring mental outlook: “Understanding yourself translates into your skiing in a big way. It’ll catapult you into a whole new level of learning.” So she does it her way. During my Ski to Live weekend, my 13 fellow pupils and I spent about as much time contemplating life in intensely reflective Big Mind sessions as we did tackling Snowbird runs like the steep straitjacket of Wilbere Bowl.

The first night, we shared our hopes (huck big air!) and fears (hairy chutes, sharks). Next morning, we fell into a pleasant rhythm: wake-up yoga; a fat breakfast; lots and lots of skiing in small groups with Ulmer or another instructor; evening sessions with Genpo Roshi, 60, who heads up Salt Lake City’s Kanzeon Zen Center and developed Big Mind; a to-die-for dinner; then profound slumber at the Lodge at Snowbird.

Under Ulmer’s tutelage, skiers and snowboarders employ mantras, which can improve focus, and learn to execute proper form, like correctly positioning shoulders through turns. (Chanting Charge! in one’s head at each turn actually does have a way of refining performance.) Throwing Roshi in the mix proves to be even more radical: He uses challenging discussions and role-playing exercises intended to help you harmoniously integrate the sometimes conflicting aspects of your personality, thus allowing you to dig out from the solipsistic center of your own little universe. It’s pretty cool.

But my defining moment came not when I face-planted right in front of the video camera (hello, embarrassing playback!) nor when I carved some relatively pretty turns in Mineral Basin; it came in a whiteout, during a three-below-zero cruise along the Cirque Traverse, at nearly 11,000 feet. Suddenly I felt fearless joy-not joyless fear-in anticipation of the double black on deck.

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You don’t need a passport to have some of the Western Hemisphere’s greatest adventures. Problem is, neither does anyone else. Whether on your own or with a guide, here’s expert advice on beating the crowds en route to a once-in-a-lifetime American adventure.

mountain biking utah

The rugged route of the White Rim Road

Mountain-Bike the White Rim Trail, Utah

The Trip: A four-day tour past a 100-mile parade of sandstone spires in Canyonlands National Park.
The Plan: This popular route along an old jeep trail isn’t technical; the tough part is scoring a coveted campsite. Call the Park Service now for remaining fall dates ($30 per trip; 435-259-4351, ) or go with Rim Tours ($695 for four days; 800-626-7335, ).
Crux Move: On private trips, volunteer to drive the sag wagon on day two. You’ll skip the gnarly ascent of Murphy Hogback Hill.
Epic Factor: 5 (on a scale from 1 to 10). The 1,000-foot climbs make you feel like you’ve earned your dunk in the Green River. But after you cool off, the low mileage (25 per day) leaves time for hikes to explore ancient pueblo granaries and hidden slot canyons.

Paddle the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Minnesota

The Trip: A voyage through your pick of 1,000 portage-linked lakes scattered across a million acres of northern Minnesota. Despite its fame as America’s most popular wilderness, you’re still likely to encounter moose, black bear—or both.
The Plan: The most beloved of the 60-plus entry points can get crowded, but even in the peak of summer you can find open permits if you’re willing to shove off from a lesser-known, harder-to-reach entry point, like Trout Lake, in the western La Croix district. Check with the Forest Service for availability (permit, $10 per adult and $5 per kid; reservation fee, $12; ). Once you’re in, you can stay as long as you want.
Crux Move: You’ll have to work at balancing a week’s worth of food, bass bait, and bug juice in your tippy canoe. And get to camp early—if your planned spot is filled you may have to hunt for another one, by moonlight.
Epic Factor: 7. The challenge is in the portages. They’re measured in rods—320 to a mile. Keep that in mind when studying your must-have Fisher maps ().

Get Fresh (cont.)

organic farm vacations

At The Apple Farm : Picked Peppers

organic farm vacations

At The Apple Farm : Resident goats

organic farm vacations

At The Apple Farm : Sleep like a farmer

Cherry Hill Vineyard
Rickreall, Oregon
Budding “pinophiles,” as owners Jan and Mike Sweeney dub them, will love walking the 55 acres of pinot noir vines on Cherry Hill Vineyard’s 150-acre estate in the Willamette Valley, near Salem.
Prime Time: Spring and fall
Haute 国产吃瓜黑料: Cherry Hill’s Wine Camp isn’t like anything you remember from summer camp—instead of spinning the bottle, you’ll focus on what goes into it. Come here for a few days to crush grape samples for analysis in the lab or fill barrels with the grape juice that yields Cherry Hill’s light-bodied red wine. Or arrange for a private wine tutorial.
Sleep Easy: Unwind in a rocking chair on the front porch of one of the six log cabins or enjoy the cocktail hour in the farm-style dining hall. Pacific Northwest wine-country meals include entr茅es such as hazelnut chicken with berry sauce.
Where to Play: Fly-fish for steelhead in the Santiam River, 20 minutes away; hike the foothills of the Cascades, a half-hour drive; or ride a bike around to other vineyards to taste yet more wine. Cherry Hill will pack your lunch.
Details: Doubles cost $250 per night, including meals. (503-623-7867, )

Hollister Hill Farm
Marshfield, Vermont
The velvety green hills of Vermont’s Winooski River Valley and the family-oriented Hollister Hill Farm offer a panacea for those weary of blaring horns and the latest Dow reports.

Prime Time: Summer and fall
Haute 国产吃瓜黑料: There’s no shortage of options: Tap maple trees, gather duck eggs, preserve fruits and vegetables, feed the animals, or even muck stalls, if that’s your thing. Bob and Lee Light’s 204-acre farm produces sustainably raised beefalo (a cow-buffalo hybrid), poultry, and pork, all sold at the farm shop.
Sleep Easy: Three bright farmhouse rooms and a suite have queen beds, private baths, and a fireplace or sauna.
Where to Play: After eating Lee’s breakfasts—like cornmeal cheddar pancakes with Hollister Hill’s own bacon—postpone the inevitable food coma by hiking and biking the trails on the farm or fishing and swimming in lakes nearby.
Details: Doubles cost $90–$100 per night; the suite costs $135–$150. (802-454-7725, )

whitewater rafting, grand canyon, arizona

“What a Grand….Canyon”: The mellow side of Arizona’s famed big hole

Raft the Grand Canyon, Arizona

The Trip: Spanning up to three weeks and 277 miles, through scores of rapids and 1.7 billion years of geology, rafting the Colorado River in one of the world’s seven natural wonders is breathtaking—if you can get on it.
The Plan: Sign on early. The majority of the 169,950 user-day rafting slots go to commercial outfitters, and even with trips costing upwards of $200 a day, much of 2004 is sold out. Meanwhile, the waiting list for private trips has grown so long—more than 8,000 names and a 20-plus-year wait—that the Park Service has stopped taking names.
Crux Move: Outfitters will open up no-show slots to wait-listers, and if they can’t get fill-ins on the original date, they’ll set up an additional trip in September. Find outfitters through the Park Service (800-959-9164, ) and join their waiting lists.
Epic Factor: 6. Plan to paddle your heart out through most rapids, though the outfitters’ gourmet meals sure take the edge off the exertion.

Climb the Grand Teton, Wyoming

The Trip: This iconic peak, looming 13,766 feet above Jackson Hole in the Teton Range, is one of America’s hallmark mountaineering destinations.
The Plan: Get expert training on a privately guided climb with Exum Mountain Guides ($650–$700; 307-733-2297, ). Two days of climbing instruction—including skills such as belaying and rappelling—are followed by a two-day venture to the summit.
Crux Move: The biggest challenge: maneuvering along Wall Street, a tapered ledge. At its end the rock plummets about 1,200 feet to the valley floor.
Epic Factor: 9. Ground school will build up your technical know-how, but you can’t crash-course your quads into shape. Train at home with day hikes and a lot of mileage on a StairMaster.

Hike the Appalachian Trail, Georgia to Maine

The Trip: The ultimate do-it-yourself summer adventure through the surprisingly wild Appalachians. Knocking off the 2,170 or so miles of the classic Georgia-to-Maine route takes anywhere from three to six months.
The Plan: You don’t need reservations, and camping is free, but you do need a plan. Get a head start by beginning at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, in May. You’ll hike north with spring’s blooms, skipping the mid-Atlantic summer swelter and the August crowds in the White Mountains.
Crux Move: Dream up a good nom de voyage: Even section hikers use trail names, like White Blaze.
Epic Factor: 8–10. Burning up to 6,000 calories per day will make you fantasize about food, so spring for that ultralight cookset. For advice on how to pick a hiking companion, read Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods.

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