Lawrence J. Burke Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/lawrence-j-burke-ii/ Live Bravely Thu, 12 May 2022 19:15:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Lawrence J. Burke Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/lawrence-j-burke-ii/ 32 32 Better Skiing Starts with Your Feet /outdoor-adventure/snow-sports/john-clendenin-better-skiing-starts-your-feet/ Thu, 03 Oct 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/john-clendenin-better-skiing-starts-your-feet/ Better Skiing Starts with Your Feet

John Clendenin opens up about his skiing background, the pinnacle of freestyle skiing in the seventies, and the secrets behind his unusual methods.

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Better Skiing Starts with Your Feet

Sitting behind my desk at 国产吃瓜黑料听headquarters in Santa Fe, there is a view of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains and our local resort, Ski Santa Fe. One morning last winter, while I was contemplating the year鈥檚 generous snowfall, a colleague walked in and handed me an article from Forbes.com: 鈥溾

I was intrigued. , I learned, has developed a unique teaching method to help students master deep snow, steep bumps, tight glades鈥攁ll the challenging terrain, in other words, that skiers are confronted with outside of a resort鈥檚 tame groomers. A former freestyle world champion and the author of , the instructor, who is based in Aspen, Colorado,听runs all over the world, hosting 15 to 20 skiers at a time. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e going to ski on a level you鈥檝e never skied before,鈥 Clendenin told his students in the Forbes story. 鈥淎ll conditions, all terrain, no problem.鈥

Now that sounded pretty good. As a lifelong skier鈥擨鈥檝e been at it for over 50 years鈥擨鈥檓 comfortable in powder, bumps, and steeps, but I鈥檓 always looking for ways to get better. I immediately recruited two old friends and signed up for Clendenin鈥檚 next clinic in Park City, Utah.

For three days, I soaked up the Clendenin Method, learned his quirky mantras, and got reacquainted with my feet (they鈥檙e at听the core of his teaching philosophy). By the end, I was officially a Clendenin convert. I鈥檓 still struggling with some of his concepts, but the veteran teacher is used to first-time students struggling to unlearn their standard approaches to tough terrain. 鈥淵ou have to let go of old habits to adopt new ones,鈥 he tells me.

A few months later, I caught up with my new guru鈥擩.C., as I鈥檝e come to know him鈥攁bout his skiing background, the pinnacle of freestyle skiing in the seventies, and the secrets behind his unusual methods.


Larry Burke: When and how did you decide skiing was going to be your profession?
John Clendenin: I joke when I get asked that question. I tell people that when I was 12, the only thing I wanted to do was ski and golf. Then I went through puberty and got waylaid for about 40 years, but now I鈥檓 back to just skiing and golf. Some may think听I鈥檓 living the dream, because this year I got my 40-year Professional Ski Instructor Association (PSIA) pin and my 25-year Professional Golf Association Class A card.

When did you first think of the Clendenin Method as a business?
When I got hired by the Aspen Ski Company with 1,500 other instructors, I knew I needed a niche. My experience as a golf pro actually helped, because in golf, there are lots of guys with their own methods, like Butch Harmon, David Leadbetter, and Hank Haney. In skiing there were virtually none. As a former world freestyle champion, [I thought], Why not Mogul Skiing for Adults? I started camps and brought in a couple former champions鈥 and 鈥攁nd called it Camp with the Champs.听After a few name changes and about 4,000 coaching experiences, the Clendenin Method evolved.

What is听the听most important differentiating factor between the Clendenin Method and the approach other coaches or instructors use with their clients?
We don鈥檛 teach clients鈥攚e teach feet! If you understand the kinetic chain in skiing, you realize that the body naturally aligns itself to the feet in order to maintain balance. Here is a simple test: sit, with your knees听bent, so your thighs are parallel to the听ground. Move your knees sideways back and forth, with your feet flat to the ground. Now, in the same position, try to tip your feet on edge without moving your knees. You can鈥檛. Do the same drill standing up. You will fall over if you don鈥檛 let the body bend in response to the feet going on edge. That鈥檚 the kinetic chain.

It kills me when I hear ski instructors teach body positions, because this negates the kinetic chain. These instructions force the feet to find the body, not vice versa.

It seems like good technical skiing is an important part of your mission. How important is style in the finished product of a Clendenin client? You want your clients to look good, right?听
Most ugly skiers have put style in front of technique. Great technique always produces a beautiful style. Now听we have the all-important question: What is great technique? I love watching great skiers like Jean-Claude Killy and Ingemar Stenmark. They all have great,elegant technique, and that technique is what the Clendenin Method is all about. It really disappoints me to see so many instructors teaching people to ski with a wide stance and their bodies hunched over like Quasimodo.

Is there a conflict between the style you teach听and the style taught today by most PSIA instructors?
training tilts toward racing technique, highlighting high-speed carved turns and zipper-line bump skiing. Not that this approach is wrong or bad, it鈥檚 just that this emphasis doesn鈥檛 fit for CM clients. Our clients want to feel safe and look good skiing more of the mountain, off-piste and in the moguls. Racing techniques are not their focus. High-edgeangles and accelerated turns do not work well in the moguls. You can see this emphasis in younger skiers who bash straight down, slamming and thumping between bumps. Eventually, these skiers grow up and have to quit because of sore knees and backs. I鈥檝e used up all my thumps, so I coach a much softer method of bump skiing. With speed controlled and turn shape managed, you can dance with gravity.

You won two freestyle world championships. What do you feel gave you an edge?
None of my fellow competitors had my intense early technical training nor the experience of skiing on a simulator.听My Northwood prep school race ski team beat the St. Lawrence, Middlebury, and Dartmouth college ski teams. Several of my teammates made the U.S.听Olympic Ski Team. While finishing college in L.A., I taught skiing on an indoor ski simulator. Together, my technical background from Northwood and the finite sense of my edges from the ski simulator听gave me the skills to kick ass. I went on and won more cars [at competitions] than anyone.

What was the freestyle ski circuit like back in the seventies when you were champ?听
[In 1971,]听Aspen staged the first freestyle mogul contest on the planet. The event brought 100 competitors and a couple thousand spectators. Four years later, freestyle had thousands of competitors, TV coverage on ABC, and thousands of dollars in prize money鈥攏ot to mention ten听times more spectators than any event in U.S.skiing history.

So imagine this: over 5,000听people on top of Park City, lining the famous Thaynes mogul run. Everyone in the crowd at that 1974 Beconta Cup world mogul championship听had to buy a lift ticket. Sun Valley听was our next event. Picture a steady stream of over a thousand vans and trucks full of contraband and wild women pouring into town. It was like a moving tailgate party! This was the beginning of a very interesting phenomenon. The free spirit of the seventiesbegan to shake the conservative world of skiing. And I was in the middle of it! I was world champ, and luckily, I survived.

Was overcoming fear a factor in winning?
I overcame fear, but it had nothing to do with skiing. The year before freestyle took hold, I was a hang glider. I flew many ski mountains: Copper, Vail, Steamboat. My last flight was down Gunbarrel at . My outfit was a bright听red overall suit from the Barnum and Bailey Circus. I flew only on calm spring evenings, and hundreds would come to watch. I was told the听last flight looked great from the ground:听The crowd saw me bomb down the moguls, holding my hang glider just off the snow, before shooting into the air,听and then diving down andalmost crashing into the ground, then shooting straight up again. Then I landed. It was a gentle landing, but everyone could see I was in shock.

What really happened was not good. First, a tailwind created a terrifying takeoff, causing me to carry the glider a hundred yards down waist-deepmoguls before bursting into the air. Then, fromover 500 feet off the ground, an air draftdropped me out of the sky. I was crashing to my death when my kite suddenly caught fresh air and soared straight up again. I landed with what appeared to be a watermelon drooping in my pants. The crowd scattered as I ran to the bathroom. So听my point: not much has scared me after that. Freestyle was a piece of cake. When I share this story with clients, it usually helps with their fear issues.

What do your clients typically consider the most difficult part of learning the Clendenin Method?
Learning to trust their feet. We do hand-eye activities all the time. We wake up, go to the bathroom, brush our teeth, drink coffee鈥攁ll require conscious hand-eye coordination. We rarely do anything conscious with our feet. So the challenge for our program is to establish foot-eye awareness. This is why we always start with our simple Keys to the Kingdom, designed to connect the mind with the feet. When people experience this foot-eye revelation, our program becomes a revelation, too.

You have a great way of describing getting rid of bad habits: 鈥淥ld habits want to protect their turf from the new habits you want to acquire鈥濃攐r something like that.
Most of my recent study has been on how people learn and how to deal with bad habits. I had a few bad teaching habits myself. When I started 20 years ago, I was screaming instructions, thinking no one was listening. Then I learned that habits are like little demons, and they have a life of their own. They tell their host, 鈥淒on鈥檛 listen to this creep and get confused鈥攚e already have a move that works.鈥 So I screamed and yelled, thinking I had to kill their听habits. I was the high priest with the silver sword. Not many clients were happy with my teaching style.

Then I learned about the Alexander Technique听[developed by acting teacher 听in the 1800s]鈥攁 guy who specialized in curing habits. He taught coaches to simply take people out of the environment that created the habit and give them a step-by-step procedure to replace it. Rather than work backward听to get rid of the old, move forward with the new! This revelation changed my approach, and now we have consistent results鈥攁nd a mellower John. Now I鈥檓听positive, not negative, and the business has grown.

You also endorse the use of mantras throughout your teaching. If you had to leave your clients with just one, what would it be?
Mantras work wonders. Hearing clients ski down a run while repeating their mantra is music to my ears. The Clendenin Method听is based on four words: 鈥渄rift center,鈥 then 鈥渢ouch tip.鈥 As campers progress, each word takes on more meaning. Just learning the four words improves most campers. Together, they are all you need to know.

As skiers advance, we have more specific mantras for every phase of the Clendenin Method. The best mantra depends on the level of a client. For example, you, Lorenzo, are an advanced CM skier learning to embrace the Epiphany Pad鈥攖he little-toe edge of the foot鈥攁s a new functional habit for your bump skiing. So a simple but accurate mantra that works for you is: 鈥淭ouch heel, touch heel.鈥 We can only use this mantra if you are already doing a number of things correctly, like parallel turns with a tight unit. On your level in bumps, we don鈥檛 have time for a mantra with more words. This two-word mantra worked great for you.

Campers are not in our program long before they learn that the fastest way to great skiing is to ski slow on groomed terrain and practice the basic Keys to the Kingdom. We tell them, 鈥淚f you can鈥檛 do it here, you鈥檙e sure as hell not going to do it up there.鈥 With respect to gravity, our best skiers warm up slow with this mantra: 鈥淭ouch to the love and squeeze.鈥 You have to take a camp to know what that means.

How many camps do you envision establishing, and what would be your locations of choice?
Ski teaching is a billion-dollar business, and I only want one-tenth of it. In the U.S., the Clendenin Method is like a boutique shop in the big PSIA mall. We currently do camps in Aspen, Steamboat, Beaver Creek, and Park City. We are looking at other franchise possibilities. Europe allows multiple ski schools in all major resorts. We鈥檝e already held camps in a couple famous resorts like 听and . The potential for CM is limitless鈥擨 only wish I had figured this out 20 years ago!

Lawrence J. Burke is the owner and founder of 国产吃瓜黑料. For more information on upcoming Clendenin Method clinics, visit .

Sick of feeling like a mediocre skier who struggles with bumps, steeps, and speed? Check out our 听online course on , where 国产吃瓜黑料+ members get full access to our library of more than 50 courses on adventure, sports, health, and nutrition.

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Learning to Surf at Age 73 /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/learning-surf-age-73/ Thu, 07 Jul 2016 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/learning-surf-age-73/ Learning to Surf at Age 73

国产吃瓜黑料 owner and founder Larry Burke takes on the waves in Costa Rica at Surf Simply. Because it鈥檚 never too late to master a new sport.

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Learning to Surf at Age 73

I am in Nosara, a small, sleepy village on Costa Rica鈥檚 northwest coast, with my wife, Gabrielle, to try something I have only scant experience with and which she has none: surfing.

Which is why we are听at , a seven-day intensive surf camp. I found out about this place from a good college friend we call Digger, who had read a story about Surf Simply听by Mary Turner, the deputy editor at 国产吃瓜黑料. Mary said it was the best surf instruction she鈥檇 ever gotten, and so did Digger. In an email to me, he wrote that it was the Otter Bar of surfing. That is high praise indeed. I went to the kayaking camp听in northern California every summer for ten years to paddle with the company鈥檚 outstanding guides.

Surf Simply seemed like the perfect way for Gabrielle (who goes by Gabe) to get her feet wet and for me to reignite my anemic efforts at surfing over the years.听

But I鈥檓 getting off to a rough start. After a few good waves during the afternoon session our first day, I somehow overlook a couple of kids playing with their mother in waist-deep water. When I hop off the board a little too close to them, the mother scowls at me, her eyes saying, 鈥淚t鈥檚 a five-mile shoreline, you jerk, why are you ten feet from us!鈥 Still focused on the tots, I reach down to grab my board when a wave suddenly flips it up into the onshore wind. The board鈥檚 rail slaps hard into my face, slicing my inside upper lip and knocking out my two front teeth. 鈥淲hat the fuck!鈥 I yell. I had totally forgotten an important part of Surf Simply co-owner and instructor Harry Knight鈥檚 advice about not letting the board get between the wind, the water, and me.

Luckily, my two teeth are floating in my mouth, so I spit them into my hand before carefully placing them in the side pocket of my board shorts. I feel my lip swelling and the blood dripping down my chin as Gabe and some other Surf Simply guests gather around me.

Burke after knocking out his two front teeth.
Burke after knocking out his two front teeth. (Gabrielle Burke)

It just so happens a local doctor is on the beach. He takes a look at my mouth and tells me he can stitch up my lip. 听鈥淯h, no thanks,鈥 I say. Then Rick, a Surf Simply guest who is an endodontist chimes in. 鈥淵ou鈥檒l probably need a root canal,鈥 he says. I don鈥檛 want to do that, either. Finally, Davin, another Surf Simply guest and an ultra-positive guy, offers up something I can get behind: 鈥淵ou look badass, man.鈥

We all head back to the Surf Simply resort for apr猫s-surf beers, and I have a chance to check out the damage. I send a photo to my daughter, Frankie, who lives in Los Angeles. She replies, 鈥淥MG, is that for real?鈥 She鈥檚 remembering kayaking at Otter Bar when we would goof around with fake bubba teeth.

My new look shouldn鈥檛 have come as a surprise. Gabe and I were both a little off balance after a rocky start to our trip, arriving in Nosara a day late and exhausted after a series of canceled flights in Denver on our way here. We missed the first day of surf instruction. I hate missing the first day. Day one always sets the tone and rhythm of a place. You meet the other surfers, instructors, and staff over drinks. Maybe you even get some swag. Best of all, you get introduced to the ocean and surf at the same time as everyone else. You鈥檙e not psychologically and in reality playing catch-up.

The temperature is 96 degrees when Gabe and I finally arrive at the white stucco archway entrance to Surf Simply. We are immediately greeted by Harry Knight, who has worked with Ru Hill, the inspirational founder and co-owner of Surf Simply, for 15 years, going back to their humble beginnings in Cornwall on the English coast. Harry is six-foot-one, with the tapered, sinewy-strong build typical of watermen. He will be our instructor for the week.

The other ten guests are arriving back at the resort from their first day surfing, pumped with stories of waves ridden, waves missed, attempted poaches, near collisions, and spectacular crashes. Everyone is busy putting their boards in the racks, showering off sand near the pool, grabbing beers from the fridge, and watching surf videos, which play close to 24 hours a day.

Other than John, a savvy car designer from Detroit, Gabe and I seem to be the only Surf Simply first-timers. Other guests include Mark, a ski instructor in Park City and Snowbird, Utah, who has been here seven weeks in the past 12 months. Mike, a private equity investment banker from Boston who grew up surfing on the East Coast and in Southern California, has also been here before. Most of the guests are men in their late twenties to mid-forties and definitely Type A鈥檚. Hannah, who has a string of star tattoos running up her spine to her neck, is the only woman other than Gabe, and she is definitely Type A. She is here with her boyfriend, Rick, the endodontist.听

The friendly bantering among the guests suggests everyone has already bonded in the space of 24 hours鈥攚hich makes me even more aware of having missed the first day.

The Surf Simply team is as special as Digger had reported. They鈥檙e all genuinely thrilled about being where they are and doing what they do, and it is immediately infectious. The instructors鈥擩ess, Prado, Derek, Asher, Ollie, and Harry, who will soon become 鈥淪ir Harry鈥 to us鈥攁re big personalities and talented athletes who exude a reassuring confidence. Being in the publishing business I can鈥檛 help but think they are all magazine cover-worthy.

We settle into our two-bedroom villa with a deck surrounded by palms and tropical vegetation. It feels just right for a tight 12-person dance party while still intimate.

At 6 p.m., we go as a group to the La Luna restaurant on the beach for sunset margaritas, fish tacos, ceviche (caught five minutes earlier), and thin-crust pizzas. The sun is setting brilliantly red over the Pacific as the ocean puts her long day of perfect waves to sleep for the night. It鈥檚 almost too good to be true.

The next day, the first in the water for Gabe and me, we are up by 6 a.m. After a few shots of espresso, everyone is on the beach with their instructors by 6:30. Harry begins working with us on the beach. We are lying down next to our boards, placing our bellies on the horizontal line of a T we have drawn in the sand. We鈥檙e going over the stages of getting up and where to position ourselves on the board鈥攏ot too far forward and not too far back鈥攂ecause inches can make a difference. We鈥檙e reviewing how to paddle with fingers spread wide for greater efficiency and how to put more energy into our stroke behind our hip. When we鈥檙e ready to practice popping up, Harry tells us to place our hands on the deck and slide the knee that will be forward between our arms and turn our front foot perpendicular to the board, which isn鈥檛 easy to do with my damaged knees from years of climbing, skiing, horseback riding, and other adventure sports. Then, with knees bent, we raise up with our arms relaxed and spread like the wings of a bird out over the rails or in an archer鈥檚 pose. 鈥淟ook where you want to go,鈥 Harry emphasizes, 鈥渘ot down at the board.鈥

Soon enough Gabe, Harry, and I are out in the water to ride the foamy whitewater of waves that have already broken. I鈥檓 relaxed and expecting to get up and ride in on my first attempt. Surprisingly, I do, though that will be the last time it feels so natural. It was a bit like winning the lottery the first time you buy a ticket. After that a hormonal cocktail of too much testosterone infused with an overdose of adrenaline would plague me for the next several days.

Meanwhile, Gabe is taking the instruction patiently, step-by-step. By the afternoon session, I鈥檓 struggling to implement what I know in my head but cannot seem to translate onto the water.

The third day, on Wednesday, Surf Simply guests have the option to do something other than surf if they鈥檇 like. But to catch up on our lost day, Gabe and I spend the morning in the whitewater reviewing technique with Harry, using slight adjustments with body weight in conjunction with the rails to turn, get up, slow down, speed up. I still can鈥檛 seem to get my mojo going; I need to be less tense in my feet, hands, and shoulders.

Burke practicing the Surf Simply technique.
Burke practicing the Surf Simply technique. (Surf Simply)

Much of surfing is counterintuitive, like most adventure sports. Because of the years I鈥檝e spent sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, and skiing, I feel like surfing should come more easily, and so I become frustrated. I keep reminding myself to relax and slow things down, a concept my nature is not programmed for. That and being patient have always been a challenge for me. I need to be both today.

By noon on Wednesday, Gabe and I take a break. My knees and elbows have been rubbed raw from contact with the board and need relief. Daniela, one of Surf Simply鈥檚 owners and a mixed martial artist offers to drive me into Nosara to see a local dentist named Dr. Laura. After 90 minutes and $300, I walk out of her office with two perfect front teeth in place.听

Later that afternoon I learn in one of the theory classes taught by Jess, the head instructor, that when we are held down by a wave it will seem longer than it actually is. A hold-down is usually not more than three to five seconds, even though it may feel like your lungs are exploding. We do breathing exercises and realize most of us can hold our breath for up to two minutes. It鈥檚 a much different mental experience when you鈥檙e getting trashed underwater and must teach yourself to stay calm, Jess emphasizes. She informs us that it is a scientific fact that if a person passes out underwater, our body鈥檚 survival mechanism closes our throats and won鈥檛 allow water into our lungs, and that a reserve of untapped oxygen will give us another eight minutes to be rescued. Comforting indeed.

By Thursday, my right shoulder starts to bother me. Luckily, one of the Surf Simply guests has a prescription drug for just this sort of thing. I鈥檝e never heard of it, but I鈥檒l try anything that will allow me to stay on the water with Harry and the rest of our small surfing family. I don鈥檛 want to miss a second of playing in the 82-degree waves.

I take the little white pill and go to my appointment with Crystal, the masseuse at the resort. The drug kicks in. I鈥檓 super relaxed and wrapped in a towel that I can barely hold up. My legs feel only limply connected to my glutes as I weave along a narrow stone path until I arrive at the massage studio. I need to lie down鈥攊mmediately. How is it possible to get this beat up in the water, I wonder? I doze off within seconds of Crystal beginning her expert bodywork.

Later that day, Gabe questions whether I should go out for the afternoon surf session, but I grab my rash guard, neoprene two-millimeter vest, my one knee pad, and head toward the beach with the rest of the surfers and instructors. Once there, I start waxing my board. Sir Harry asks how my shoulder鈥檚 doing. 鈥淚ffy,鈥 I reply. 鈥淕ood, let鈥檚 have a go and see how it feels,鈥 he says. I catch three or four little waves in a row and grab some water off the right rail and make a slight cut back to the left, a breakthrough for me. Then, while practicing guiding the board to a 30-degree angle, the rail digs into the wave and the board pops up out of the water. I instinctively try to hold onto it, which jerks my right shoulder outward and behind me. After that, I can鈥檛 reach forward to paddle or press my palms down to stand up. I鈥檓 temporarily beached, so Harry takes Gabe to the outside, beyond where the waves break, as I watch from shore.

Gabe is a natural, and I鈥檓 convinced that women have a kind of patience and natural ability for some things that men have to learn the hard way. On the waves, just like when we鈥檙e competing on quarter horses back home in Santa Fe, Gabe is balanced, poised, and patient. She鈥檚 loving it, and it thrills me to see her having so much fun with a new sport. She is handling the bigger surf very well, riding over the swells and turtle-rolling through breaking waves. She practices throwing the board away should all else not be an option. She is out there paddling around with the better surfers. She picks her wave and paddles to catch it. She does and goes straight down the face. Gabe gets to her knees, ready to pop up, but instead puts her hands on her hips, keeping her knees on the deck and enjoying the ride of her life just where she is. She is soaking up the rush, patient and poised, and then raises her arms like Rocky racing with the wave toward shore. I鈥檓 jumping up and down on the beach yelling, 鈥淲ay to go, honey! AWESOME! OH YEAAAH!鈥

Gabrielle Burke riding in.
Gabrielle Burke riding in. (Surf Simply)

On Friday, I鈥檓 anxious to get out on the water early. We鈥檒l all be on the outside today while the video crew records our performance. Ru is in deeper water with a large, glass-enclosed camera. The wave sets are delivering six-footers, maybe even a seven-footer here or there, with ten or twelve seconds between them. Nice. The tide is transitioning, and there is a sweet offshore breeze. It鈥檚 an exquisite day.

I鈥檓 catching my breath after the paddle out, sitting back on the board鈥檚 tail to spin around efficiently when it鈥檚 time to go. All of a sudden, Harry says, 鈥淗ere it is. Let鈥檚 have a go.鈥 I line up with the wave and start paddling, a few strokes to get positioned, then harder to catch it. I manage to catch the wave in the perfect spot, just over the breaking crest. I feel remarkably stable. I get to my knees, set to pop up at the top of the face. Miraculously, I get my front foot up on the board where it didn鈥檛 previously want to go. I stand up, keeping slightly bent at the knees and forward to maintain speed. I remember to look up and toward the shore mark I had set, not down at the board. Damn, I鈥檓 thinking, I love this. I ride the wave all the way into the whitewater, not wanting to let go of this feeling for anything. I know in that moment that this is just the beginning.

Gabe is now up on another wave, coming straight down the face as she gets her knee forward between her long arms and patiently stands up. Her forward arm is extended and her back arm is in an archer鈥檚 pose. She is bent at the knees, being aggressive and looking beautiful, like a real surfer girl having the time of her life.

On my paddle back out, the sun is low and the silvery crests of breaking waves are glimmering when I notice a surfer riding in, bouncing back and forth over the small curling crests. He鈥檚 on a board no longer than forty-eight inches and shaped like a blunt-nosed snowboard. It鈥檚 Ru.听

He pops off the tiny board, and as we squint into the sun I tell Ru that Gabe and I will be signing up for another week before we leave in the morning. And we do.

; from $3,380 per week, all-inclusive

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