Kyle Dickman Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/kyle-dickman/ Live Bravely Thu, 10 Nov 2022 17:43:20 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Kyle Dickman Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/kyle-dickman/ 32 32 To Save Sequoias from Wildfire, We Must Save Them from Ourselves /outdoor-adventure/environment/sequoias-wildfire-california/ Wed, 13 Jul 2022 09:30:46 +0000 /?p=2589115 To Save Sequoias from Wildfire, We Must Save Them from Ourselves

Once thought to be basically immortal, giant sequoias are dying in droves as fires burn bigger, hotter, and longer than at any other point in human history. Protecting them is possible, but managing western woods is a Pandora鈥檚 box of tough choices.

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To Save Sequoias from Wildfire, We Must Save Them from Ourselves

It鈥檚 not like my family actually went through the exercise of picking a spirit tree for each of us, but if we had, my parents would have picked coastal redwoods. My dad grew up in Larkspur, California, on San Francisco Bay, in a house built beneath redwoods so big that he, his three brothers, and his sister couldn鈥檛 have linked arms around them. My mom met my dad in Arcata, on California鈥檚 northern coast, where they went to Humboldt State University. Poor and crafty, and anxious to prove that they could make their way in the world, both took a job with an old logger who sold restored redwood timber. My mom graded milled boards according to the clarity and straightness of the grain. My dad salvaged old-growth trees that other loggers had cut and then left behind because they were too hard to recover.

He once used a choker cable and an International flatbed to pull a log thicker than an Airstream out of a ravine. The log was so heavy that the truck鈥檚 front wheels rose off the ground, threatening to flip my dad and the whole operation ass over teakettle. When he tells the story, he pretends he鈥檚 a Looney Tunes character, driving along happy and ignorant until suddenly he realizes there鈥檚 no ground beneath him.

If my brother, Garrett, picked a tree now, it would be a sequoia.

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2022 /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/the-best-splitboarding-gear-2022/ Tue, 26 Oct 2021 18:00:27 +0000 /?p=2533110 The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2022

Kit upgrades for the climb and the descent

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2022

Twenty years ago, only the most dedicated snowboarders rode splitboards. They鈥檇 cut old fixed boards in half, glue on metal edges, fashion their own skins and bindings, climb up the mountain, then enjoy a clunky ride down. Today, the industry is flush with gear that makes skinning, sliding, and the transition between the two immeasurably easier and way more fun. The gap between in-bounds gear and the backcountry has never been slimmer thanks to this latest crop of innovations.

G-3 Pivot Backcountry Ski Poles ($154)

(Photo: Courtesy G3)

G-3鈥檚 Pivot covers the basics, with durable aluminum construction and a latch-initiated locking system. A small extension on the handle can lift the heel risers on your bindings. Each pole weighs 295 grams鈥攍ess than most jackets. Each pole weighs in at 295 grams鈥攍ess than most jackets鈥攁nd is foldable to about 16 inches, so it fits snugly in backpacks. The small size extends four feet, and the large goes up to five.


Patagonia Stormstride Pants ($399)

(Photo: Courtesy Patagonia)

The best pieces of equipment are the ones you never notice. Patagonia鈥檚 three-layer nylon Stormside pants clear that bar. At 476 grams, the Stormstride is lighter than most other pairs we tested. We also love the supple, 颅50-percent recycled nylon and PU-reinforced ankle scuff guards. On cold, wet, and warm days alike, our testers said they forgot they were wearing pants at all. High praise indeed.颅颅颅颅颅(women鈥檚 XS鈥揦L / men鈥檚 XS鈥揦L)


Arc鈥檛eryx 惭别苍鈥檚 Procline Jacket ($499)

(Photo: Courtesy Arc鈥榯eryx)

Layering is a backcountry ethos. Crucial to that is a good outer layer, like Arc鈥檛eryx鈥檚 men鈥檚 Procline jacket. The Procline鈥檚 颅颅颅wind-resistant fabric is stretchy, quiet, and clothlike, with a DWR coating that held up when snow turned to rain. A powder skirt and seven pockets round it out. (XS鈥揦XL)


Jones Frontier Splitboard ($750)

(Photo: Courtesy Jones)

Jeremy Jones makes aggressive boards to suit his big-m颅ountain style of riding. Mortals, rejoice: the Frontier isn鈥檛 like that. With a blunt nose and slashy tail, it floated in deep powder during March laps in New Mexico鈥檚 Sangre de Cristo Mountains. 颅Serrated edges improved edge hold in hard conditions, and the poplar core gives the board energy and a damp feel.


Burton AK Dispatcher 25L Pack ($160)

(Photo: Courtesy Burton)

All you need for most touring days is a hauler that can stash 颅颅颅颅extra 颅layers, water, skins, and your avy kit. This bag is just that. Side zippers and a three-quarter zip back panel get you to your gear quickly. Nice details like the bomber ripstop Cordura-Kevlar outer, helmet bra, padded goggle pocket, splitboard carry straps on the back, and safety whistle on the chest strap round it out.


Nidecker Talon Boots ($480)

(Photo: Courtesy Nidecker)

The Talon鈥檚 liner responds to your body heat and naturally molds to your shin over time, while a 颅dual-Boa system reduces pressure points. An external carbon backstay boosts precision on the way down.


G-3 Split LT Glide Skins ($210)

(Photo: Courtesy G-3)

The LT Glide鈥檚 camming plastic tail connectors clip over the back of any splitboard, while 颅additional pivoting clips fix the skins to the board鈥檚 exterior edges.


Karakoram Grizzly Split 颅Bindings ($400)

(Photo: Courtesy Karakorum)

At 840 grams, the Grizzly is the heaviest of Karakoram鈥檚 split bindings, but it鈥檚 also among the most affordable. Utilizing the same aluminum baseplates and bomber lever-style attachment system as its high-end cousins, it offers such a secure connection that it makes splitboards ride like fixed boards.


Petzl Iko Core Headlamp ($90)

(Photo: Courtesy Petzl)

At 79 grams with a baffling 500 lumens, the Iso Core is hard to justify leaving behind when you head into the backcountry. This little lamp has a rechargeable built-in battery but also takes AAAs. It burns nine hours in the standard lighting mode, which is (hopefully) more than enough to get you out of the dark should things go south. The rigid plastic headband fits snugly over hats or helmets if you鈥檙e inspired to ride under a full moon.听

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The Antibody Avenger and the Quest for a COVID-19 Cure /health/wellness/glanville-covid-19-cure/ Thu, 04 Mar 2021 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/glanville-covid-19-cure/ The Antibody Avenger and the Quest for a COVID-19 Cure

Vaccines are rolling out with increasing speed, but we鈥檒l also need effective treatments, because new coronavirus cases will be a worldwide reality for years to come. Enter Jacob Glanville, a maverick San Francisco immunologist who believes he鈥檚 found an unparalleled path to healing.

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The Antibody Avenger and the Quest for a COVID-19 Cure

Since the early days of the pandemic, Jacob Glanville, a 40-year-old skateboarding immunologist with a silver tongue and a knack for self-promotion, has been proclaiming that he would develop the world鈥檚 best COVID-19 treatment. Few competitors believed him. Most just scoffed. But Glanville, then the chief executive officer of a tiny San Francisco company called Distributed Bio, has made significant progress, successfully creating an antibody that neutralizes the coronavirus in hamsters, an animal model for humans. He鈥檚 far behind the pharmaceutical giants Regeneron and Eli Lilly鈥攂oth of听which won of antibody-based treatments in November 2020鈥攂ut his work is still important. With听a total of $9 million invested so far, his discoveries have cost only a fraction of what the big firms have spent on their research. He says his treatment will work well and be more affordable鈥攖hink $900 per dose instead of the $2,000 per that Regeneron charges. 鈥淚鈥檝e got the best-in-class therapeutic,鈥 Glanville told me recently, repeating a line he鈥檚 used often since April 2019.

Given the FDA鈥檚 approval of the first vaccine on December 11, 2020, you might be wondering why you should care about Glanville or his drug. It鈥檚 because won鈥檛 end the pandemic. That鈥檚 especially true in the U.S., where so many people see their freedom to get sick and pass it along as a basic right. The chilling truth is that, at this point, it鈥檚 effectively impossible to vaccinate enough people worldwide to vanquish COVID-19. And so, as with听the flu, the deadly virus is likely to remain resident among us, destined to cause breakouts听every year. You should care about Glanville鈥攁long with the many other drug manufacturers still pushing their creations forward鈥攂ecause, odds are, the best COVID-19 treatments aren鈥檛 available yet. If Glanville is right, he could save many lives all over the planet.

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2021 /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/best-splitboarding-gear-2021-winter-buyers-guide/ Mon, 26 Oct 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/best-splitboarding-gear-2021-winter-buyers-guide/ The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2021

One kit to conquer every slope

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2021

Weston 奥辞尘别苍鈥檚 Eclipse Splitboard ($899)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Weston)

Climbing is easier with this surfy sub-s颅even-pounder (for the 145- and 150-centimeter models). Its tapered shape and rockered tip also lend nimbleness in tight trees.


Flylow Smythe Bibs ($460)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Flylow)

Even high-performance bibs get hot on warm days. Not the slim five-pocket Smythes, which now boast a breathable, waterproof soft-shell material.听


Burton Family Tree Hometown Hero X Splitboard ($1,500)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Burton)

Burton鈥檚 lightest split was built for backcountry powder, with a wood core, directional camber, and entry rocker that kept it afloat and slashy in 颅hip-deep snow.


POC Obex BC SPIN Helmet ($250)

(Courtesy POC)

This smart helmet features an inner gel-like membrane that provides extra protection against lateral forces. Also built in: Recco (a radar reflector) and an NFC chip that sends rescuers essential health and location info, which you upload to the chip via app, in case you become incapacitated.


Leki Guide Extreme V Poles ($250)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Leki)

Leki employed carbon in the upper shaft and aluminum below for a pole that鈥檚 strong but light (nine ounces). Interior cables keep it taut when snapped into place.


Spark R&D Summit Skins ($190)

(Courtesy Spark R&D)

Spark R&D built the nylon Summits with dual-angle clips, which lasso the board with hooks both at the tip and the tail. The skins stay snug even on hot laps.


Strafe W鈥檚 Alpha Hooded Insulator Jacket ($269)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Strafe)

Polartec鈥檚 latest Alpha synthetic insulation lends this hoodie premium breathability. Its slim fit is just right for skinning in cool midwinter conditions. Bonus: an interior mesh sleeve keeps your phone warm.


Spark R&D Arc Pro Bindings ($540)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Spark)

Reinforced carbon highbacks, heavy-duty plastic straps and ratchets, steel pivot pins鈥攅very choice in Spark鈥檚 design is a testament to durability and weight savings. Invest now, ride for many years.


Vans Hi-Country and Hell-Bound Boots ($330)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Vans)

These flexible kicks feature a quick-drying liner from the North Face and removable tongue inserts for dialing in the fit.


Ledlenser MH5 Headlamp ($50)

splitboarding
(Courtesy Ledlenser)

Lights are 颅mandatory for safety. The 400-lumen MH5 features two crisp white modes鈥攍ow and high鈥攁nd a red setting, without extraneous switches. It鈥檚 airy enough (3.3 ounces) to forget about until you need it.

鈥嬧赌嬧赌嬧赌嬧赌嬧赌嬧赌

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World’s Best Kayaker Seeks Full-Time Employment /outdoor-adventure/water-activities/nouria-newman-kayaking/ Mon, 24 Feb 2020 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/nouria-newman-kayaking/ World's Best Kayaker Seeks Full-Time Employment

With a r茅sum茅 full of wins at kayaking鈥's most prestigious competitions and historic first descents of the planet's deadliest whitewater, Nouria Newman is considered one of the greatest paddlers around. So why can't she turn her passion into a sustainable career?

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World's Best Kayaker Seeks Full-Time Employment

The night before Nouria Newman nearly drowned in India, in August 2018, she used her paddle to sweep animal dung out of an abandoned stone hut. The then 25-year-old French kayaker was alone at 13,467 feet in the Himalayas. 鈥淚t鈥檚 gonna be the bedroom,鈥 she announced, whisking the space with a mix of mild altitude sickness and bliss. That day she had put on the Tsarap River and kayaked mostly flatwater through mountains too high for trees to grow. Day two would bring elevated flows and mellow rapids鈥擟lass III, she鈥檇 been told.听

鈥淚t鈥檚 beautiful. It鈥檚 beautiful. I鈥檓 so happy,鈥 Newman said the next morning, announcing her state of mind into her GoPro as she paddled through a canyon whose walls were layered like stacked pancakes. Shortly after, she heard the unexpected roar of difficult whitewater ahead.听

Paddling alone听is as rare in kayaking as free-soloing is in climbing. It鈥檚 also gaining attention. Last year, in a descent many kayakers compared to Alex Honnold鈥檚 historic ropeless climb of Yosemite鈥檚 El Capitan, Spanish paddler Aniol Serrasolses 听during the highest flows any kayaker had ever seen on the river. Before arriving in India, Newman was one of the world鈥檚 most accomplished paddlers, but she had never soloed anything significant. For her first attempt, she picked a 233-mile section of the Tsarap, Zanskar, and Indus鈥攖hree connected rivers that help form what some call the Grand Canyon of Asia鈥攂ecause she鈥檇 heard it was well within her abilities, and because she wanted time to think.

Over the previous two years, Newman had graduated from a top school in France with a master鈥檚 degree in journalism, been let go from a job in that field, and been cut by the French national slalom team. Though she鈥檇 won an individual silver medal at the 2013 World Championships and team gold in 2014, team officials had tired of her pursuit of a career in whitewater, outside the narrow confines of slalom racing.听

Throughout the two decades Newman had kayaked, she鈥檇 paddled in 46 countries and, in 2014, became one of only ten people , a formidable rapid on the Stikine that most boaters elect to portage around. She had run 80-foot waterfalls and claimed wins or top-ten finishes in nearly every noteworthy extreme whitewater competition in the world. 鈥淔or the first time ever, the world鈥檚 best kayaker is a woman,鈥 professional expedition paddler Ben Stookesberry, one of the sport鈥檚 elder statesmen, said.

Despite growing accolades, getting fired from the French team in December 2017 had left Newman feeling adrift. At the time, she was living in her mom鈥檚 apartment in the South of France and owned little more than she could pack into her perpetually damp gear bags. On a whim, she bought a ticket to India to compete in an event at the , on India鈥檚 southwest coast. She won the race, then began plotting her next move. When the police prevented her from paddling flooded rivers in India鈥檚 southeast, Newman flew north to attempt the Grand Canyon of Asia alone.

From the seat of her kayak that second morning on the Tsarap, the rapid she was approaching didn鈥檛 look like a mellow Class III. The river narrowed and slipped into a gorge, where Newman could see the tops of boulders. The rapid roared like big water, but it was too late to get out and scout. When she hit a wave forming upstream of a boulder, it broke and, like a reset typewriter, pushed Newman to the left. The view opened up. Just beneath her bow was a cauldron that sucked down through a funnel between two massive rocks. This was a siphon, where water can pull a paddler below the surface. Siphons kill kayakers.听

Newman paddled hard to the right to cross back into the main current, but it wasn鈥檛 enough. Her boat met rock, and she became wedged between the boulder and the force of the current, directly above the siphon鈥檚 mouth. For four minutes she stayed there, still upright, but with the river surging over her shoulders. Finally, she pulled her spray skirt and flung her drybag, with all the supplies she鈥檇 need to survive, onto the rock island beside her. She then leaned forward to clip a tether to her kayak鈥檚 bow, hoping it would enable her to climb onto the island, pull the boat up behind her, and scout the remainder of the rapid.

She never made it out of the kayak. When she shifted her weight, the river poured into the open cockpit, and Newman, still in her boat, flushed into the siphon. Underwater she had time enough to think, You fucking idiot. Fortunately, there were no obstacles to trap her, and she was quickly flushed downstream. After another quarter-mile of big water, six minutes after she first got pinned, Newman reached the shore. By the time she鈥檇 returned upstream for her drybag and reran the rapid, 45 minutes had elapsed. On the riverbank, she broke into sobs. Then she switched on her GoPro, snapped her skirt onto her boat, and slid back into the current. 鈥淚鈥檓 cold. I鈥檓 scared,鈥 she said between shaky breaths. 鈥淎nd it鈥檚 time to keep going.鈥澨


鈥淪orry I鈥檓 late,鈥 Newman says. It鈥檚 the end of June, and one hour after our scheduled meetup. Newman, having lost track of time while running a classic Class V gorge on the slate-gray Raundalselva River outside Voss, Norway, is slogging up the trail at the take-out. She鈥檚 in a blue drysuit carrying her blue Jackson kayak over her shoulder. A dozen or so feral-looking paddlers鈥攏early all shirtless dudes鈥攁re basking and snacking in the sun. Newman drops her boat by the VW van she鈥檚 been living in for the past two weeks and says, 鈥淎t least we didn鈥檛 have to go to the emergency room today.鈥 They鈥檇 seen two accidents in the past two days: a friend following Newman鈥檚 lead paddled an inflatable unicorn off a 35-foot drop and nearly broke his coccyx, and another boater Newman was paddling with landed on her head at the bottom of a two-tiered, 60-foot waterfall and thought she鈥檇 dislocated her shoulder. 鈥淭here were cameras there,鈥 Newman says. 鈥淵ou should never step up your paddling听because there are cameras there.鈥澨

Newman on Norway鈥檚 Myrkdalselvi River (left) and during the shooting of the YouTube video 鈥淔ollow Me鈥 in Val Sorba, Italy
Newman on Norway鈥檚 Myrkdalselvi River (left) and during the shooting of the YouTube video 鈥淔ollow Me鈥 in Val Sorba, Italy (Helge Skodvin, Dom Daher/Red Bull Content Pool)

Newman has come to Voss with , a 32-year-old French-Irish filmmaker who, like Newman, retired from a successful slalom career to pursue extreme kayaking. They鈥檙e shooting a video series for Red Bull to highlight the world鈥檚 top paddlers: Newman, Serrasolses, Dane Jackson, and Ben Marr. The fjords surrounding Voss offer rivers and creeks with an absurdly high density of waterfalls and the type of unforgiving whitewater you鈥檇 expect to see in a Red Bull flick. The town鈥檚 other draw is the , a gathering and competition that attracts top athletes in climbing and kayaking, as well as BASE jumping, cliff diving, and other fringe sports. Between shoots of her running enormous rapids, Newman hopes to claim her throne in the downriver race at the European Championship, a whitewater event听that will take place three days from now on a nearby river.听

Kayaking includes a variety of disciplines, and Newman is the rare athlete who excels at nearly all of them. She got her start in slalom racing, an Olympic event. In fiberglass boats that are as long, thin, and fragile as they are fast, paddlers race both upstream and down through a series of gates hung above the rapids. Freestyle competitions are held on standing waves or holes. In stubby plastic or carbon-fiber boats analogous to surfing鈥檚 shortboards, competitors utilize surges in the river to coax their kayaks into complex aerial maneuvers. Then there are extreme whitewater events like the one here in Voss. Boaters race heavy kayaks roughly the shape of bratwursts down waterfalls, boulder gardens, or high-volume rapids. Newman is the clear favorite.听

After changing outside Heurteau鈥檚 van, Newman peels the lid off a can of tuna and slurps the liquid off the top. She鈥檇 recently told me she was 鈥渢rying to get out of the dirtbag cycle this year,鈥 but clearly she hasn鈥檛 achieved her goal. Not that anybody really makes a stable living from kayaking these days. Two decades ago, when companies like Subaru and Nike fueled the sport鈥檚 short-lived boom, top kayakers could make six figures. But by the mid-2000s, the industry had contracted and the money dried up. Now it鈥檚 ruled by a handful of small but hearty brands that kick down gear and whatever cash they can afford, usually not more than a few thousand dollars, to the dedicated athletes who rep their products.听

Barring independent wealth, the only reliable way to paddle full-time is to attract a mainstream sponsor. For Newman, that鈥檚 Red Bull. Since 2013, she鈥檚 been sponsored by the energy-drink company, which now pays her around $13,000 a year. She makes another $8,600 or so from industry sponsors鈥擩ackson, Kokotat, Sweet Protection鈥攁nd scrapes together a bit more income from guiding and the occasional speaking gig. (In July, she delivered a motivational talk on risk to outdoor retailers in Munich for about $330. 鈥淩eally good money!鈥 she called it.) Despite the tight budget, Newman manages to paddle more days out of the year鈥攗pwards of 250鈥攖han almost anyone else in the sport. In 2018 alone, she kayaked in 16 countries. In the two months leading up to our meeting in Norway, Newman ran rivers in France, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Italy, and Iran. During that last stop, 听at the behest of the International Canoe Federation. It鈥檚 an enviable travel schedule, but lately, scrimping by has made Newman wonder how long she can keep it up.听

That鈥檚 one reason that, instead of Norway, Newman would prefer to be in the United States right now, competing in the 听in Colorado and then the 听in Idaho鈥攖wo of the sport鈥檚 biggest races. With wins there, thanks to prize money and performance bonuses in her Red Bull contract, she would nearly double her annual income. She was the heavy favorite at both events, until the State Department rejected her visa request. The official rationale was that Newman didn鈥檛 have enough money in her bank account to prove she could support herself. True enough. But Newman suspects the real reason was that , and a recent stamp from the Islamic Republic of Iran looked suspicious. Newman spent a good portion of what she usually makes in a year to hire a lawyer to reapply for a visa. Near the end of the process, she wrote to friends and associates in the States asking them to support her application.听

鈥淚 feel incredibly lucky to get to do what I love most and what I do best,鈥 she wrote. 鈥淏ut it turns out Mr. Immigration Officer is right about something. Whitewater kayaking isn鈥檛 a proper job.鈥


Newman grew up an only child in , a small village near a ski resort in the French Alps. Her father, an English expatriate, worked in tourism. Her mother, who was born in Paris, held various jobs, which included renting skis and packaging chocolate. In a small town full of skiers and hunters, Newman was an outsider. 鈥淭he other kids would bring marmot pelts to school,鈥 Newman remembers. 鈥淚 wanted a marmot pelt to bring to show-and-tell.鈥 She brought a venomous asp shoved into a bottle of liquor instead.听

Every summer, the Newman family traveled abroad, visiting Costa Rica, Thailand, or Cuba for extended periods, usually with no fixed itinerary. The one time she joined an organized tour, with her grandfather, Newman grew bored, like they鈥檇 forfeited adventure. 鈥淚 still struggle with structure and authority,鈥 she says. She recalls skidding her bike through a neighbor鈥檚 freshly graveled driveway for the sheer thrill of defying them.听

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Video by Red Bull Media House

Newman started paddling around age four, not long after seeing a plastic kayak for the first time. 鈥淚 thought it was a huge Playmobil toy,鈥 she says. 鈥淭he coolest, biggest plastic toy.鈥 When she asked her parents if she could try kayaking, they said yes, but not until she鈥檇 learned to swim. So Newman took swimming lessons. In the U.S., most paddlers are taught to kayak by family or peers. In France, the pathway is more formalized. Paddlers pay to join a local slalom club that gives them access to gear, coaching, and a competitive circuit.

Newman won her first race when she was eight. At ten, when the World Championships were held on her local course, she made necklaces with little kayaks on them. She and a friend sold several hundred to spectators, earning Newman enough to buy a playboat to use when she wasn鈥檛 slalom training. She also skied, mountain-biked, and climbed, but the river meant something more. 鈥淭aking away kayaking was the only thing that worked when my parents threatened me with discipline,鈥 she says.听

In 2006, at age 14, Newman entered the French Championships, competing against adults. The event was held 30 minutes from home, in nearby Bourg-Saint-Maurice, on a glacial river鈥攕teep, frigid, and intemperate鈥攚ith a course that Heurteau calls the world鈥檚 hardest. Newman took fifth in the women鈥檚 division.

When she was 18, Newman earned one of three spots on France鈥檚 senior slalom team. She had just moved south to start her master鈥檚 degree in journalism at , an esteemed school near one of the team鈥檚 training centers. A few years later, Newman remembers her coach telling her, 鈥淵ou鈥檙e fast. If you pull down a good run, you can be a world champ.鈥 Newman had never considered that possibility, though she was already a disciplined athlete. She structured entire practices around fundamentals, spending hours and hours on forward strokes alone. On weekends or rest days, she鈥檇 trade her carbon race boat for a plastic freestyle or downriver kayak and chase whitewater for fun. She guesses she paddled 20 percent more than her teammates. The effort paid off. In 2013, she won silver at the World Championships in Prague. The win felt good, but slalom wasn鈥檛 enough to sate Newman鈥檚 fierce appetite for paddling.

Few slalom boaters can run whitewater at Newman鈥檚 level. The athletes who prioritize the raw speed and performance required for slalom don鈥檛 typically have the stomach for the danger, unpredictability, and adventure of whitewater. But while pursuing Class V rapids away from racing, Newman started to build a community of fellow big-water diehards. The year before she moved to Toulouse, Newman met Louise Jull, a Kiwi slalom racer who also excelled in whitewater. They soon formed the core of a loosely knit, all-women international kayaking crew that would grow to seven members. Newman, Jull, and the others competed against one another in slalom or extreme races, then logged notable descents in places like Norway and Chile. Newman was thrilled to have the听camaraderie. 鈥淟ou was easy,鈥 she says. 鈥淟ike I wouldn鈥檛 see her for months, and then we鈥檇 pick up exactly where we鈥檇 left off.鈥澨

Still, Newman was struggling with her dual pursuits. 鈥淗ow do you match the hemispheres of slalom and kayaking? How do you fit all that in while trying to go to school?鈥 she says. While training for the slalom World Championships in Maryland in 2014, Newman awoke early one day for a practice session. She found a sign hanging outside the entrance to the now dry concrete riverbed: The river is closed.听

In a gesture of defiance against the rigidity of competition life, she impulsively bought a ticket to British Columbia. A day later, Newman showed up on the banks of the Stikine, where she became the first woman to kayak Site Zed. Feats such as these made her a minor celebrity in kayaking, and for a while she seemed to be thriving despite her divergent passions. She and her team claimed gold at the World Championships a couple of weeks later. Nonetheless, the French Canoe and Kayak Federation, which manages the national team, saw something in Newman they didn鈥檛 like. Her focus was drifting.听

More than any other factor, what drove Newman to trade her slalom career for the endless pursuit of whitewater was a string of devastating tragedies, starting in the fall of 2014, that forced her to recalibrate her priorities. That November, Newman was recovering from surgery on her left rotator cuff when she had a bad reaction to a routine dose of morphine, leaving her unconscious for three days. When she awoke, she learned that a friend of hers, Peruvian paddler , had died in a kayaking accident.听

Six more of Newman鈥檚 friends would die within the next 12 months, including Jull. In the spring of 2015, Jull was training in New Zealand when . The grab loop on her spray skirt caught on a log and she drowned.听

When she received the news about Jull, Newman was still regaining her strength from surgery and reeling from grief. She says she considered quitting kayaking altogether, mourning the fact that she鈥檇 missed out on so much time with friends and family. Eventually, she visited a psychologist, who she remembers telling her to let go of her regrets and focus on the things she could change. Newman realized that she was no longer compelled by the singular pursuit of competition. 鈥淚t changed my life drastically, because I always thought that getting medals was something really important,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut then I got a medal and it didn鈥檛 change a thing.鈥 Around that time, when she found an old note Jull had written her, she was struck by one particular line鈥斺淎lways remember the most important thing: fun.鈥 She had it tattooed on her forearm (though she left out the word fun, keeping the most important thing to herself).听

In May of 2015, Newman made a trip to the U.S. to paddle and to compete in extreme kayaking races. Still recovering from surgery, she won the women鈥檚 competition at the GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado, and finished an astonishing eighth overall (including men and women) in the North Fork Championship. Those were significant performances that came with financial perks, but even better were the opportunities they presented to travel. She linked up with some American extreme kayakers and maximized her three-month visa camping and paddling the West鈥檚 best whitewater.听

Newman views those experiences, along with her time in therapy, as 鈥渢he beginning of the end鈥 of her slalom career. Rather than 鈥渄oing loops on artificial courses like a goldfish,鈥 she thought maybe she should pursue whitewater full-time. In 2016, Newman graduated with her master鈥檚 degree, and the following year the French Kayaking Federation made the decision for her.听

鈥淭hey fired me,鈥 Newman says. The elite training program dictates that if an athlete fails to produce results, they can be cut from the team, and after her surgery, Newman鈥檚 results had been inconsistent. But it was more than that. 鈥淵ou quit slalom three years ago,鈥 Olympic silver medalist V谩vra Hradilek told her. Newman knew he was right; her real passion had become whitewater. Still, the dismissal left her feeling like she鈥檇 failed at the thing she鈥檇 dedicated her life to. So she responded the way she always had in hard times: she went kayaking, this time alone, on a river high in India鈥檚 Himalayas.听

Newman (left) discussing lines with a fellow kayaker in Norway
Newman (left) discussing lines with a fellow kayaker in Norway (Helge Skovdin)

After the near drowning in India, Newman had more than 200 miles of whitewater to paddle. She slowed down. She scouted rapids. A few times, fear and disorientation turned to tears. What the hell am I doing here? In the end, after seven days, Newman had paddled some 20 Class IV and V rapids, a breed of whitewater that鈥檚 like riding a fire hose through a minefield.听

鈥淚t was like one of those tribal rituals where a child becomes an adult,鈥 Heurteau says. 鈥淲hen she came off the river, something had triggered in her. She鈥檇 decided on a new path, and that path was to push harder than ever.鈥

Newman鈥檚 most ambitious goal now is to team up with Ben Stookesberry to complete China鈥檚 Tsangpo, a Himalayan river that some paddlers have called the sport鈥檚 equivalent of Mount Everest. In 2002, Scott Lindgren and a team of seven whitewater legends made a historic descent down the Tsangpo, though some controversy lingers over their accomplishment, because the team left the lower section of the river unrun. Newman and Stookesberry hope to one day make a complete descent. Money is as much an obstacle as the river itself. Including permits and transportation, the expedition will cost somewhere in the range of seven figures. Stookesberry thinks that if any kayaker can raise that sort of money in the sport, it鈥檚 Newman. The reasons, he says, have as much to do with her skills as a communicator as with her gifts as a paddler.听


Three days before the European Championship in Norway, Newman and Heurteau are collecting more footage for their Red Bull film. Newman is standing at the edge of an ice-blue creek outside Voss that鈥檚 rushing over the lip of Nosebreaker, . The current makes an S-shaped turn, bouncing left, then right, then left again, before falling some three stories into the pool below. If you approach on the outside of the S, your boat will be shoved into the right wall: broken nose. If you鈥檙e too far inside, the river will shove you left and send you flat into an eddy, with similar results.听

Having considered Nosebreaker for a few minutes, Newman appears unfazed. She describes it as 鈥渟traightforward.鈥 As Heurteau鈥檚 drone hums over the drop, Newman lowers herself into her kayak, splashes her face, and enters the rapid just left of a small V-shaped wave that marks the start of the first half-circle in the S turn. When she hits the main curler about 15 feet downstream, she leans hard into it, and the water shoves her much farther right than she鈥檇 anticipated鈥攏early against the wall. Newman disappears over the lip and lands with an empty boof.听

Newman walks back to the top of the drop to run it again. This time she makes a subtle change. She enters the rapid at the same place but angles her boat a few degrees left, then leans into the first lateral with less force. The current carries her into the strongest flow in the center of the river. After a full stroke that lifts her bow, Newman arcs out beyond the waterfall and lands in the pool below with a series of silky skips. Her hair would still be dry if she hadn鈥檛 missed her first line.

Newman drops into Tree Trunk Gorge, on New Zealand鈥檚 North Island
Newman drops into Tree Trunk Gorge, on New Zealand鈥檚 North Island (Graeme Murray/Red Bull Content Pool)

What strikes me is how quickly she makes decisions. Heurteau compares a kayaker鈥檚 ability to read a river to a musician interpreting sheet music; the art comes down to how one executes within the understood structure. 鈥淣ouria has great water awareness,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not that she鈥檚 going to stick her line every time, but she knows exactly what she will do if she doesn鈥檛.鈥澨

Perhaps because of her journalism background, Newman has the uncommon ability to translate some of this knowledge for a general audience. In Tibet in early August, she diagrammed an entire half-mile rapid in her journal and posted it on Instagram. She broke the big-water Class V into some 25 steps and annotated the lines: 鈥淜eep left on the crushing wave,鈥 鈥淪tay balanced, aware of where you are,鈥 鈥淏oof for Jesus.鈥 Though hard to read (Newman writes in chicken scratch), these dissections help dispel the persistent myth that kayaking is an extreme sport ruled by knuckleheaded adrenaline seekers who don鈥檛 think before they huck. There鈥檚 real planning behind her dangerous feats. 鈥淚鈥檓 not a stuntwoman,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 wouldn鈥檛 run these things unless I was sure I鈥檇 be OK.鈥

Newman has more than , a healthy number for a kayaker, though not extraordinary. (, another Red Bull paddler, has 139,000.) But Newman鈥檚 feed offers something distinct from the bro-brah image of risk-taking promulgated by most pro kayakers, who typically post huck shots from photogenic drops like 听or famed rivers like the Stikine and not much else. By contrast, Newman, who now posts nearly every day (because 鈥渢he data demands it鈥), features a mix of lifestyle shots, envy-inducing travel images, a few photos of terrifying rapids, and portraits of friends. Each photo includes a short but well-considered caption. 鈥淣ouria is the latest addition to a long line of exceptional female kayakers,鈥 says Mariann Saether, a professional paddler from Norway. What separates her from the rest, she says, is social media.

Within the small community of elite paddlers, Newman comes across as one of the adults in the room鈥攕ometimes the acerbic one. Stookesberry says her honesty isn鈥檛 universally popular among kayakers. In 2018, she wrote an op-ed in Kayak Session magazine that gently clowned Rush Sturges, one of the sport鈥檚 biggest names, over his conversion to veganism. 鈥淲e shouldn鈥檛 be too judgmental towards one another. We are all in between swims, vegan or not,鈥 she wrote. Her point was that all choices are justifiable but self-righteousness never is. One night while we were walking back from a party in Voss, Newman was incredulous about a top paddler鈥檚 recent career change to life coach. 鈥淗e meant extortionist,鈥 she laughed.听

Still, it鈥檚 hard to imagine an athlete with a similar collection of talents struggling to make a career in almost any other sport. No wonder, then, that Newman is irritated that she hasn鈥檛 been able to turn her passion into a sustainable career. 鈥淲hy do I get half as much as the boys when I paddle expeditions and win races?鈥 Newman asks. 鈥淚 have to be a fucking asshole to advocate for myself.鈥

Saether, who is in her late thirties and has been sponsored for twenty years, agrees that Newman deserves to earn more, but she doesn鈥檛 think gender bias is the issue. There鈥檚 just not much money to go around, she says. Newman doesn鈥檛 disagree, but she thinks women have to fight harder for their slice of a shrinking pie. She once threatened to walk away from a deal with Sweet Protection helmets if they didn鈥檛 compensate her. (They now give her about $1,665 a year.) She says that Jackson Kayaks pays some of its male athletes more than her. When I reached out to then president Eric Jackson, he conceded that a few top men make more than Newman but said she鈥檚 paid the average for their male paddlers. 鈥淲e would love to do more, but we have been making cuts at JK. Nouria鈥檚 compensation isn鈥檛 a male/female thing. Her team manager, Emily [Jackson, Eric鈥檚 daughter], wouldn鈥檛 tolerate it.鈥

It鈥檚 not just sponsors that Newman has to battle. In June, a few weeks before the European Championship, Newman was planning to enter 听race. At the time, the competition had two events, a marathon course and a sprint final, but there was no women鈥檚 division in the sprint and therefore half the available prize money. The reason for the disparity, according to the race directors, was that in prior years no women had elected to compete in the more challenging sprint event鈥攂ut they weren鈥檛 barred from entering it.

Newman showed up to the King and Queen of the Alps planning to compete in both marathon and sprint, but when she received her official registration form, it stated that only the top 20 male finishers in the marathon would be allowed to compete in the sprint final. She discussed her concerns with the directors, who proposed a solution: they would ask the other women if they wanted the chance to race in the final, and if none did, Nouria could compete with the men. In the end, three other women wanted to compete, and the company sponsoring the event ponied up 300 more euros in prize money for a women鈥檚 category鈥攖he same amount as the men. Newman won the race.

鈥淚 wish girls had more ego to stand up and show the world how good they actually are,鈥 Newman says. 鈥淜ayaking is a reflection of society.鈥澨

A few days after I watched Newman run Nosebreaker, we鈥檙e sitting in the living room of a small apartment she鈥檚 sharing with six other kayakers who are here for the races in Voss. It鈥檚 around 10 P.M. the night before the European Championship, and Newman鈥檚 phone buzzes. It鈥檚 a text from a transgender woman she recently kayaked with: Can Newman help her lobby the race directors to let her compete in the women鈥檚 division at future events? For twenty minutes, Newman struggles with what to do. At the root of the trouble, she explains, is the question of what gender means鈥攚hy it even matters. In the end, she decides to ignore the text, concluding that she doesn鈥檛 know enough about the topic to be an advocate. 鈥淚 really feel for her,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut at the same time, I鈥檝e competed enough to know that if you want to be accepted, if you want to be a part of something, maybe competition is not what will make you feel better.鈥


It鈥檚 now the final heat of the European Championship, and Newman is waiting in a pool beneath a 20-foot waterfall on Norway鈥檚 Myrkdalselvi River. She already has a several-second lead over the four women she鈥檚 competing against. Prepping for her second run, Newman pantomimes each move on the course like a downhill skier outside the starting gate. A left stroke off the right side of drop one. Down the V forming just left of the rock island. Vertical strokes through the flats. And center-left off the second drop, a 20-foot waterfall.听

There are about 100 kayakers and spectators positioned on the banks of the Myrkdalselvi. Techno music pumps from a speaker, and when competitors near a bridge doubling as a viewing platform, the crowd roars and shifts from the upstream side to the downstream side.听

It鈥檚 not just sponsors that Newman has to battle. In June, she was planning to enter Italy鈥檚 King and Queen of the Alps race. At the time, the competition had two events, a marathon course and a sprint final, but there was no women鈥檚 division in the sprint and therefore half the available prize money.

As extreme racecourses go, this isn鈥檛 an impressive one. The river level is so low that racers scrape bottom at one part of the run. But if it isn鈥檛 particularly dangerous, racing the Myrkdalselvi听today is technical. Along the half-mile course, the river drops over six distinct ledges that vary in size from a three-foot, river-wide hole to a twenty-foot waterfall that shoots kayakers into the pool below like they鈥檝e been fired from a T-shirt gun.

The emcee announces that Newman has taken the course. 鈥淲e don鈥檛 even have to watch to know who wins this. She鈥檚 too fast,鈥 says a young, shirtless spectator with dreadlocks and bare feet. Newman鈥檚 first lap, not her best, would have qualified her for the men鈥檚 final. But when her boat skips into view after the first drop, something鈥檚 off. She鈥檚 too far right to catch the fast water flowing on the left side. From then on, the mistakes pile up. She gets stuck on a rock in the flat stretch and is too far left when she launches from the听20-foot drop, causing her to land in slack water and lose time pulling herself out of an eddy. 鈥淗uh,鈥 the guy with dreads says. 鈥淭hings are getting interesting.鈥 At the finish line, Newman collapses in exhaustion.听

Despite what she called her ugliest race ever, she finished less than a second behind the eventual winner.听

Newman is gracious in defeat. 鈥淎nd the one that showed anything can happen today, Beth Morgan!鈥 says the emcee as they take the podium. Newman showers Morgan with champagne, but afterward she sounds devastated. 鈥淚 can鈥檛 believe it, I fucked up,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 started thinking about what went wrong, trying to compensate. I think it鈥檚 time to take a step back and relax.鈥

And so she does. For a whole hour and a half, Newman doesn鈥檛 kayak鈥攄oesn鈥檛 even really consider it. Then a friend asks if she wants to run something mellow close by. Oh, why not, Newman thinks. It鈥檒l be good for me.听

Before the year ends, she鈥檒l deliver the talk to outdoor retailers in Munich, teach clinics for kids at the Freestyle World Championships in Spain, notch three significant high-water descents in three weeks in Tibet and Nepal, swing through Paris to pick up a credit card to replace the one she鈥檚 worn out, then jet to Quebec for two weeks for a first descent, and finally to Indonesia for three weeks of exploratory paddling. She鈥檚 still mulling over that full-time job. But by now, she鈥檚 learned to count on something better coming along first.

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2020 /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/best-splitboarding-gear-2020/ Thu, 10 Oct 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/best-splitboarding-gear-2020/ The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2020

Because remote, untracked snow is worth the effort

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2020

Costa Cheeca Sunglasses ($259)

(Courtesy Costa)

Turns out polarized glass is nice when the water鈥檚 frozen, too. Costas excel in the mountains, with an athletic fit that helps them stay put.


Rab Microlight Summit Jacket ($325)

(Courtesy Rab)

With hydrophobic goose down, a longer cut to keep the coat from creeping up above your pack鈥檚 waist belt, and a helmet-compatible hood, the Microlight Summit sounds overbuilt. But weighing in at just a pound, it鈥檚 anything but.


Burton Flight Attendant X Splitboard ($1,500)

(Courtesy Burton)

The Flight Attendant X rode so well that one tester brought it along on a trip to Utah鈥檚 powder-filled resorts. It鈥檚 wider at the tip than at the tail, it floats over deep snow, and camber underfoot lends it pop. But what we liked best was the board鈥檚 tight, surfy responsiveness. A real joy in trees.


K2 Aspect Boots ($460)

(Courtesy K2)

With grabby Vibram outsoles and stiff construction, the Aspect can take crampons and kick steps into ice鈥攊mportant attributes in a backcountry boot. Other features we appreciated: the warm Intuition liners and the Boa system that links to cables on the shell, which made tweaking the fit easy even in gloves.


Black Diamond Ascension Splitboard STS Skins ($175)

(Courtesy Black Diamond)

BD鈥檚 patented tail clips ensure a snug fit, and the nylon bases offer exceptional glide and traction. The Ascensions are worth the time and trouble it takes to trim them to fit.


Patagonia Powder Bowl Pants ($299)

(Courtesy Patagonia)

Gore-Tex keeps them dry, mesh lining at the vents prevents snow from intruding, and articu颅lated knees boost mobility. The Powder Bowl works as well off the lift as it does on the skin track.


Karakoram Prime Connect-W Bindings ($399)

(Courtesy Karakoram)

The women鈥檚 Prime retains the machined aluminum and easy transition from climb to ride mode of all Karakoram bindings. Get the dedicated splitboard plates ($149) to mount them for backcountry use.


Jones Talon Pro Poles ($150)

(Courtesy Jones)

These collapsible sticks are made with two lengths of carbon to save weight and one length of aircraft-grade aluminum for durability.

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The Human Antivenom Project /outdoor-adventure/exploration-survival/snakebite-antivenom-tim-friede/ Thu, 16 May 2019 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/snakebite-antivenom-tim-friede/ The Human Antivenom Project

One man purposefully gets bitten by snakes to immunize himself against them. A scientist wants to turn this man's blood into a vaccine against snake venom.

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The Human Antivenom Project

It might one day be to the world鈥檚 great fortune that Jacob Glanville, a young immunologist trying to make a name for himself in the field of universal vaccines, went online and found Tim Friede, a mechanic who into his bloodstream for going on two decades. It may also prove to be yet another stroke of terrible luck for Friede.

But let鈥檚 start at the beginning. It was March 2017. Glanville, who left a to launch a startup called , had just developed a novel method for accelerating the creation of new drugs by extracting patients鈥 antibodies, the blood proteins vertebrates use to counteract the threat of viruses, bacteria, and toxins. He thought he鈥檇 apply the technique to cancer research. So one day, while sitting with a meditative view at San Francisco鈥檚 Japanese Tea Garden, he took to Google in search of a melanoma survivor. Chasing a thought, he typed in 鈥渞epeat venom survivor鈥 instead and found Friede.

Friede, who has spent 19 years promoting his quest to help researchers create a universal antivenom, takes up an inordinate amount of space on the internet. Glanville soon stumbled upon a newspaper story that described , the one he says proves his immunity to two of the deadliest snakes in existence. In the video, Friede holds the head of a Papua New Guinea taipan, one of the world鈥檚 most potently venomous snakes, against his forearm. Blood is already dripping from fang marks on his right arm, left there moments earlier by a ten-foot-long black mamba. Now the taipan bites. An attack from either snake can stop a person鈥檚 heart in a couple of hours. Other symptoms, including drooping eyelids and paralysis of the tongue, develop in seconds. But Friede calmly puts the snake back in its cage and says to the camera, 鈥淚 love it. I love it. I love it.鈥

Glanville watched this with the appropriate mix of discomfort and grim fascination. 鈥淛esus fuck, this is my guy,鈥 he said. Friede鈥檚 immune system, it seemed, was able to neutralize dozens of different toxins. Glanville wondered whether he could use his new antibody-颅extraction method on Friede to create a universal antivenom.

Tim Friede, scientist Ray Newland, and Jacob Glanville at Distributed Bio鈥檚 offices in South San Francisco
Tim Friede, scientist Ray Newland, and Jacob Glanville at Distributed Bio鈥檚 offices in South San Francisco (Peter Prato)

Friede was driving home from his factory job building military trucks in Oshkosh, Wisconsin, when he received the first call. He remembers Glanville complimenting him on his knowledge of the immune system and explaining his interest in creating an antivenom. Soon after, they made a handshake agreement. Friede would supply his antibodies, and Glanville his science, and should they bring an antivenom to market, they鈥檇 split the profits down the middle. It was a long shot, but one that could eventually net each of them millions.

It鈥檚 now early December 2018, and Friede and Glanville are meeting in person for the first time, at Distributed Bio鈥檚 new offices in South San Francisco, in a nondescript building so close to the city鈥檚 birthplace of biotechnology sign, you could hit it with a genetically modified peach. Along with four other young immunologists and Friede鈥檚 girlfriend, Gretchen Greeley, they are drinking single-malt Scotch in an office down the hall from the lab where Glanville鈥檚 team has been studying Friede鈥檚 blood. Glanville, 38, is six-foot-two, with round glasses and a round face framed by dark, curly hair. He鈥檚 wearing designer jeans and nice leather boots.

Friede, 51, is around the same height as Glanville. He has a full head of closely shaved graying hair, wispy sideburns that drip into a goatee, and a face so thin it looks blown onto his cheekbones. He鈥檚 wearing faded jeans from Goodwill and steel-toed Keens. His voice is gravelly from cigarettes, and feeling insecure in the presence of so many Ph.D.鈥檚, he plays the part of the dumb country boy. 鈥淭hat was the most terrifying few hours of my life,鈥 he says, describing what was a fairly routine flight to San Francisco. Then he proclaims, 鈥淭oday is the best day of my life.鈥 When Glanville pulls him into a fatherly side hug, Friede seems to swell.

Glanville has ostensibly flown Friede to San Francisco to plan the next steps of their multiyear antivenom project. But really they鈥檝e gathered here to meet me. Putting a new drug on the market can cost tens of millions of dollars, and Glanville knows that press can lead to funding. Having once survived a harrowing rattlesnake bite myself, I was curious whether, by some cosmic confluence of the ongoing technological revolution in immunology, Glanville鈥檚 skill set, and Friede鈥檚 unfathomable tolerance for pain, a mechanic from Wisconsin really was on the verge of becoming the dark angel of antivenom that for years he鈥檇 been saying he was.


A week earlier, I was buying Friede dinner in his new hometown of Green Bay and trying to figure out what triggered this obsession of his in the first place. A veteran of interviews, he took me to 鈥渢he steakhouse where the Packers eat鈥 and ordered a $50 rib eye. With an IPA in hand, Friede told me about his recent move from Oshkosh, where he鈥檇 lived for two years. 鈥淚 was bagging up my mamba, a big ten-foot black,鈥 he said, adding that he hadn鈥檛 injected that particular snake鈥檚 venom in several months. 鈥淎nd pop, right in the ring finger. Blood everywhere. I mean everywhere. Total accident.鈥 This was the 100th time he鈥檇 been bitten by a mamba. 鈥淪o, true story,鈥 he said, 鈥淚 walk into the kitchen and tell Gret, 鈥楪ive me 15,鈥 because normally after 15 you鈥檙e pretty good to go.鈥

鈥淲hat鈥檚 15?鈥 I asked.

鈥淢inutes. If you鈥檙e not immune in 15, you鈥檙e out鈥攄ead. So I pass out. I thought, Son of a bitch, either I鈥檓 going down or fucking shock is getting me,鈥 he said. But he had no hives. He could breathe. Five minutes later, he was back on his feet and then, wham, down again. 鈥淚 hit my head on the damn sink. Made it through that one. That was two months ago,鈥 Friede said, and then the waitress arrived with our salads.

The son of schoolteachers he never met, Friede was adopted when he was three months old and raised by a police-officer dad and a stay-at-home mom in the Milwaukee suburbs. An intense kid, he grew up hunting snakes and fantasizing about joining the Special Forces. Shortly after graduating from high school, he broke his ankle in a car accident when he flipped his VW bug. At 19, after he fractured the ankle a second time, in Army boot camp, he gave up on the military and took a job as a high-rise window washer in Milwaukee.

Still somewhat aimless at 30, he enrolled in a class on how to milk spiders and scorpions, hoping to land a career extracting venom for medical research. A few arachnid bites later, he got a pet copperhead, and it鈥檚 been all snakes ever since. That鈥檚 also around the time he first heard about self-颅immunization. The ancient practice involves escalating exposure to any harmful substance鈥攖oxin, bacteria, virus鈥攖hat the human body produces antibodies against. It sounded smart, becoming immune to his deadly menag颅erie. So in 2000, Friede began shooting himself with snake venom in small doses, at one point using some syringes acquired from his best friend鈥檚 wife, a vet tech named Karen.

He suffered his first snakebite the day after 9/11. A few days before, Karen had died in a head-on collision that would also render her two young kids comatose for six months. Devastated and depressed, Friede got good and drunk and tried to milk his Egyptian cobra. The snake twisted and sank its fangs into his left middle finger. Having begun self-immunizing the year before, he鈥檇 already injected 0.26 milligrams of cobra venom diluted in saline鈥攁 dose large enough to ensure he could survive a cobra bite. Friede鈥檚 wife at the time snapped a picture of him in his living room. He looks fleshier and happy, with a smile on his face and his bloody hand pushed up against the nose of his dog, a pit bull mix, while his beaming six-year-old son hugs the animal. It鈥檚 one of two photos on his fridge. 鈥淭hat changed everything,鈥 Friede said. 鈥淚t was the first time I beat death.鈥

The second time came an hour later. The freshly cobra-bitten Friede, feeling cocky, went back to the cages where he kept his snakes and picked up a monocled cobra with his bare hands. 鈥淣aja kaouthia,鈥 Friede recalled, using the snake鈥檚 scientific name, as he always does. The cobra perforated his right biceps. 鈥淚 was scared as hell,鈥 he said. Friede collapsed. Fully paralyzed, he could still hear when the medics arrived and discussed whether he was dead. They revived him with six vials of antivenom from the zoo, and Friede spent the next four days in a coma. 鈥淭hat one is hard to talk about鈥攁 fucking disaster,鈥 he said. 鈥淚 wish it never happened.鈥 It鈥檚 also the story he uses to answer questions about his obsession. Afterward, he made it a goal to survive two venomous snakebites in a single night, this time without requiring antivenom.

To do so, Friede taught himself enough immunology to self-vaccinate more safely. When he is bitten or injects himself with snake toxins, his B cells, , secrete thousands of different antibodies in an effort to counteract each of the many distinct proteins that make up a particular venom. At first very few succeed. Like random keys inserted into locks, they simply don鈥檛 fit. But inevitably, a few do. It鈥檚 evolution taking place directly in the bloodstream. Every time Friede receives a snakebite, his B cells make only those antibodies that address the now present toxin while at the same time constantly tinkering to improve the designs. The more venom Friede injects, the more effective his antibodies become.

What鈥檚 challenging about his approach is that each species鈥 venom is a combination of 20 to 70 toxic proteins and enzymes that kill or maim in their own special way. To survive bites from multiple species, Friede needs antibodies capable of turning off the deadliest toxins in the venoms injected, be it rattlesnake or cobra. He also needs a legion of them in his bloodstream at all times, although when he first began self-immunizing, he wasn鈥檛 really certain how many. Friede 颅decided that more was better, and the process he settled on required near constant exposure to venom. So he ordered a lot of snakes.

Friede at his home in Green Bay
Friede at his home in Green Bay (Peter Prato)

We arrived at this part of his story almost three hours after we鈥檇 sat down to dinner. The steakhouse had closed, but after we finished our meal, Friede spotted a friend, the restaurant鈥檚 baker, a cheery, pink-haired woman who loved snakes. We joined her and the rest of the waitstaff at the bar, where Friede, who is charming and funny, had them all riveted鈥攅specially when he began explaining the work he鈥檇 lined up for his antibodies tomorrow night.

鈥淪o, when I get bit by a water cobra, the most venomous snake in Africa, it鈥檚 going to be bam鈥攍ock and key, lock and key, millions of times,鈥 Friede said. Then he pivoted, explaining why his immunity wasn鈥檛 just a dubious party trick but could save millions of lives. 鈥淲hat they did in San Francisco,鈥 he said, 鈥渋s cloned all my good antibodies to mamba, rattlesnake, everything.鈥 And that, he continued, is what would become the foundation for a universal antivenom. (As it often does, his enthusiasm for the project had him getting a bit ahead of the science.)

鈥淥h, you鈥檙e a hero,鈥 the restaurant鈥檚 manager said, buying Friede a beer and a shot of whiskey in appreciation.

鈥淥h no, no, no,鈥 Friede said. 鈥淚鈥檓 not. I鈥檓 just an idiot who gets bit by snakes.鈥


Before Glanville had even heard of Friede, he was working on cures for HIV, cancer, and Alzheimer鈥檚 disease. But his real passion is the flu. As with venom toxins, the influenza virus is constantly evolving, yet with each transformation, .

鈥淓volution is ding, ding, ding, ding鈥all the time,鈥 Glanville says. 鈥淲hether that mutation survives depends on whether it鈥檚 advantageous. The part of the protein that functions the same way across all species, that鈥檚 the part that鈥檚 conserved, because it鈥檚 already working.鈥 In other words, a virus doesn鈥檛 fix what isn鈥檛 broken. This was the scientific epiphany that struck immunology a decade earlier, and it now drives all of Glanville鈥檚 work. If an antibody could be created to target that conserved portion, almost every strain of the virus could be neutralized鈥攁 universal vaccine.

Glanville grew up in Guatemala in the late eighties and early nineties, amid the country鈥檚 36-year civil war. He鈥檚 the son of American expats, his father an 鈥渁gricultural importer鈥 (a winking euphemism) and his mother an artist whose father helped develop the engines that sent the first U.S. rockets into space. To avoid stray bullets, Glanville and his younger brother, Keith, slept on the floor of the hotel their parents owned, and to get to school they rode a boat across Lake Atitl谩n. Glanville was also brilliant, cooking up nitroglycerin in the family bathtub when he was nine and finishing high school math by the time he was 11. As an undergraduate at the University of California at Berkeley, Glanville studied computational bioengineering, a new field that used math and supercomputers to solve complex biological riddles. The immune system fascinated him. 鈥淪o I figured out how to hack it,鈥 he says.

Around 2008, computational bioengineering was in its promising infancy, and Pfizer hired Glanville a year out of college. Ever since human antibodies , scientists have considered them immunological silver bullets鈥攃ells with the elusive power to theoretically cure any disease. Isolating and engineering them became perhaps the greatest quest in medicine. Over the past two decades, scientists compiled that can be genomically sequenced, allowing researchers to read the DNA of each one. Once that鈥檚 known, any antibody can be grown in bacteria and modified to target a specific antigen.

The cobra perforated his right biceps. Friede collapsed. Fully paralyzed, he could still hear when the medics arrived and discussed whether he was dead. They revived him with six vials of antivenom, and Friede spent four days in a coma.

Glanville鈥檚 major contribution at Pfizer (and the reason he was promoted to principal scientist in just four years) was writing 45,000 lines of code to optimize the process of matching antibodies to antigens. Searches that once took a team of scientists ten years to complete, Glanville says, can now be done in a week by a master鈥檚 student working alone. His software taught the computer to find thousands of matching antibodies from the tens of billions in a library. None of those matches would be perfect, but by swapping various features they share, one or a few of them could be made into something close. Glanville had developed a way to dramatically cull the number of potential candidates and then engineer the most promising ones. He transformed the search for antibody drugs from a needle in a hundred hay stacks to a needle in just one.

In 2012, at 31, Glanville took his code and left his prestigious job at Pfizer. He then founded Distributed Bio while also becoming the first Ph.D. candidate in computational immunology at Stanford University. Five years later, Glanville completed his doctorate, and business at Distributed Bio was booming. He now licenses his software and antibody library and each of nine other pharmaceutical giants for around $500,000 a year and typically receives 2 percent of the profit from any drugs developed using them. With those earnings, Distributed Bio has added a fleet of new hardware to help in the discovery, isolation, refinement, and cloning of antibodies, making his firm, which employs 20 researchers, a leader in the field.

Glanville鈥檚 baby was his flu-vaccine work, and important insights he gained during that quest would also apply to snakebites. As with the toxins in venom, influenza strains are incredibly diverse. We get flu shots every year because the virus mutates somewhere between 10 and 20 percent from one season to the next, rendering our defenses useless. To succeed with a flu vaccine, however, Glanville just needed to engineer antibodies that sniffed out the virus鈥 weak spot, that one place that doesn鈥檛 evolve even as everything around it does.

Along with his research co-lead, microbiologist Sarah Ives, Glanville bought 15 live flu viruses that were representative of the strains that had infected humans between 1938 and 2015, then locked them in cold storage. Collectively, influenza killed tens of millions of people during that span of time. Glanville wrote a computer program to identify any binding sites that were shared across all 15 viruses. And he found a region full of them, buried deep in its molecular folds. Then Glanville engineered a vaccine that would teach the immune system to produce antibodies to target that area. Back in Guatemala, at a pig farm he and his brother built on their parents鈥 property to save money on research trials, his team immunized 100 pigs (a common animal model for humans) with the designer vaccine. Then they exposed the pigs鈥 serum, the component in blood that contains antibodies, to influenza strains that the animals鈥 had never seen, those that went epidemic in humans between 2005 and 2015. The serum fought off the viruses. 鈥淭he smart money is that this is the universal flu vaccine,鈥 says Glanville. Indeed, the invited Dis颅tributed Bio to submit a grant proposal, and the company plans to go into preclinical testing at veterinary research facilities in Iowa this fall.

Given that potential breakthrough, it鈥檚 perhaps not surprising that Glanville is so confident he can succeed with snakebites, too. 鈥淲ith our tech,鈥 he told me, 鈥渂ecause of what Tim has done鈥攁s crazy as that shit is鈥攖his is an easy problem for us to solve.鈥


Glanville had only an inkling of how crazy it really was. Starting in 2000, when Friede set his mind to immunizing himself from nearly all snakes, he turned his basement into a venom lab. He insulated the walls to keep tropical reptiles warm in Wisconsin鈥檚 winters and used spent syringes to hang a world map and a letter from a self-颅immunizer he admired beside a Sports Illustrated swimsuit calendar. Every few months, new species arrived at the Milwaukee airport, where Friede would pick up the wooden crates stamped Venomous SNAKEs.

When he got home, Friede would listen to Tool and open the crates with a screwdriver. On snake hooks or in Friede鈥檚 bare hands, out came the writhing contents. Water cobras. Taipans. Mambas. He put them in cages he stacked against a wall. Friede鈥檚 rarer venom donors were wild-caught鈥攍egally or illegally, he doesn鈥檛 know鈥攁nd often stressed or sick. Some died a few months after they came in. Friede loves animals, but whether his snakes survived long-term didn鈥檛 ultimately affect his work. Once he milked their venom he could dehydrate it into a lifetime supply.

He also began taking what he calls 鈥淒arwinian notes.鈥 On December 12, 2001, he wrote, 鈥淪ince dying was no fun, took off 鈥檛il December.鈥 That day he injected himself with the venom from the same cobra that nearly killed him, and he spiked his blood every few weeks from then on. He rated pain on a numerical scale, with entries ranging from 1 to 1,000. A common symptom was 鈥3×3 swelling鈥; rarer was 鈥渟welling from knee to ass,鈥 鈥渉ives over whole body,鈥 and 鈥渁naphylactic shock鈥 (though he suffered the last of these 12 times). Within a year of starting, he was letting live snakes bite him to demonstrate his immunity. Over time he could distinguish how much venom they鈥檇 injected simply by his body鈥檚 reaction. He grew to like water cobras, because their neurotoxic venom blocked his nerve cells, making a bite less painful and 鈥渧ery easy to beat.鈥 He hated Cape cobras and rattlesnakes, whose necrotic venom dissolved his muscles.

Along the way, Friede developed a sort of stuntman-next-door persona by . Some were macho, like the one where as he films a black mamba double-nipping a sober Friede. But in most of the clips, Friede how self-颅immunization really works. He was just your average enthusiastic guy in a Slayer T-shirt, admiring nature鈥檚 deadliest snakes by letting them bite him. He recorded tagged him by surprise and to help 鈥渁 girl with a school project.鈥

Whether he put his videos on Facebook or YouTube, haters inevitably flocked to the comments. Snake enthusiasts, leading toxicologists, and online trolls attacked his efforts as useless witchcraft and labeled Friede either a fake who鈥檇 removed the snakes鈥 venom glands or an idiot. Friede says he even got death threats. 鈥淲hat was I doing? I wasn鈥檛 hurting anybody,鈥 he says.

Glanville studied computational bioengineering, a new field that used math and supercomputers to solve complex biological riddles. The immune system fascinated him. 鈥楽o I figured out how to hack it,鈥 he says.

Before long the media discovered him, too. National Geographic filmed Friede for a TV segment in 2002. The History Channel Stan Lee鈥檚 Superhumans, and the Science Channel and a number of YouTube shows. He was also in several magazines and became a regular guest on podcasts and radio. All that attention offered something he craved: affirmation. 鈥淚 was a rock star,鈥 he says. 鈥淗ell yeah, it was fun.鈥 At one point, Friede got a lawyer and an agent to capitalize on the opportunities but has since dropped both, because 鈥渋t鈥檚 never been about the money.鈥

What it has been about, Friede insists, is saving lives. As early as 2003, he believed that scientists could turn his blood into a universal antivenom, so he began to reach out. Friede e-mailed Nobel Prize鈥搘inning experts on the immune system, an Arizona State University professor who developed a technique for genetic immunization, and Stanley Plotkin, the author of , which Friede used to inform his own immunization.

The scientists got back to him with cursory congratulations, but he found few who were genuinely interested in what he was doing. He got a better reception among a more amateur crowd鈥攖he burgeoning online self-immunization community. Norman Benoit, the closest thing the practice has to a historian, 鈥渉as almost single-handedly taken the concept of self-immunizing to where it is today.鈥 That place seems to be in 2013. It now has 3,000 members around the world and an image gallery that could be sent as hate mail to a squeamish enemy. On it, Friede generally advises caution to newcomers while supporting鈥攖hough not providing advice on鈥攖heir DIY immunity efforts.

Friede wasn鈥檛 exactly cautious himself. Over time his experimentation grew bolder, if not downright reckless. 鈥淵ou鈥檝e got to make mistakes to get better, that鈥檚 part of it,鈥 he says. On November 29, 2015, he filmed the black mamba and taipan double bite that led him to Glanville. The video now has 11.5 million views on YouTube. Friede described the event in his notes: 鈥淥ne of the worst double bites I鈥檝e ever had. Swelling was 10″ x 10″. Took four days to heal.鈥 A week later, he repeated the experiment with the same two snakes and had a similar experience. 鈥淐ould not walk. Body was on fire. Fell down many times. Death was near. Learned a lot.鈥 Friede has now survived bites from two species of rattlesnake, two species of taipan, four types of cobra, all three species of green mamba, and the black mamba.

As might be imagined, Friede鈥檚 obsession has taken a toll on his personal life. His ex-wife has said that Friede鈥檚 self-immunizing ruined their marriage. Friede doesn鈥檛 argue the point. Though he still considers his ex-wife a close friend, he says with remorse that for long periods he hasn鈥檛 had a good relationship with his sons, who are now 11 and 22. 鈥淚 mean, I was working to save the world. I traded my life for all those people that snakes kill every year,鈥 he says. After a strained 20 years, he and his wife split in 2010. Friede moved out and transferred his snake lab to a property in nearby Fond du Lac, where he slept in a tent. 鈥淚 figured out how death works, then beat it,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 the only thing I鈥檝e ever been good at.鈥

By the spring of 2017, divorced and estranged from his kids, Friede felt that he鈥檇 had enough. 鈥淚 was done,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 was tired of the bites, tired of the pain, tired of not getting anywhere.鈥 So even while he kept posting on Facebook, he planned to wind down his self-immunizing.

Then Glanville called. In as much time as it took him to explain his intentions, Friede鈥檚 dream was revived. Glanville reaching out was 鈥渆verything,鈥 Friede says. 鈥淓惫-别谤测-迟丑颈苍驳.鈥


Around the time Glanville and Friede connected, their cause got a publicity boost. In June 2017, after intensive lobbying by physicians, the World Health Organization as a an upgraded classification with the heft to shake loose vital funding. Every year, between 80,000 and 130,000 people and claim 400,000 limbs through amputation.

Dozens of teams around the world first developed in the late 1890s by Albert Calmette, a French immunologist who also developed a vaccine for tuberculosis. Calmette made an antivenom to cobras by doing to rabbits what Friede has done to himself. Since then sheep and horses have become the antibody donors of choice, largely because of their abundant blood supplies. Otherwise, . Serums can expire in less than two years and are expensive ( and sometimes more), and the antibodies they produce work only against select types of venom. While that last flaw is acceptable in places like the United States, which is home to only four appreciably different venomous snakes, it isn鈥檛 in a country like India, which has 60.

As Glanville soon learned, none of the researchers working on a snakebite cure expected to engineer a truly universal antivenom. Doing so would require an antibody to turn off every toxin in every known snake venom, a financial improbability for a drug that Glanville forecasts will earn just $30 million a year. Yet, as Glanville also discovered, advances in genomic sequencing have revealed that across all 700 species of venomous snakes, the most destructive proteins belong to just 13 different families. 鈥淣ot all toxins are equally bad. We just need to cure the nastiest ones to save lives,鈥 Glanville says.

, Glanville hopes to target the protein-binding sites shared among each of those 13 families. If he can find antibodies to lock onto those vulnerable sites, a so-called broad-spectrum antivenom wouldn鈥檛 need to contain several thousand distinct antibodies. An effective number, he says, could be closer to 30.

Of the half-dozen toxicologists and antivenom experts I spoke to, not one had heard of Glanville. He hasn鈥檛 published any scientific papers on venom, though more than 30 in other areas. The most heralded work in the field is being conducted by Andreas Laustsen, a young researcher in Denmark who has dubbed himself Snakebite Jesus. Last summer, using some of the same tools as Glanville鈥檚 lab, Laustsen engineered human antibodies that when injected into mice , among the most potent ingredients in black mamba venom. But his work underscores just how difficult the challenge is. Because of the sheer complexity of venom, his antibodies were effective only when injected directly into the mice鈥檚 brains.

Glanville believes Friede is the solution. His theory is that Friede has done with his syringes and snakes what Glanville had done in the lab for flu: created antibodies to sniff out the shared sites of extremely diverse proteins. 鈥淭he immune system is as lazy as the rest of us,鈥 Glanville says. 鈥淲hy make a bunch of different antibodies if you can just make one that does many jobs?鈥

Laustsen, who is supportive of any researcher working on antivenom, is nonetheless skeptical that Friede鈥檚 antibodies are anything special. Before beginning his experimentation on dendrotoxin, he worked with a self-immunizer from London. Laustsen found that his patient鈥檚 immunity was barely above background鈥攏ot worth the effort or expense to extract antibodies, and certainly not worth the headache. Danish media had taken Laustsen to task for using a self-immunizer to develop a potentially profitable drug. 鈥淭he promotion of such work carries the risk that others will start doing something crazy to get the interest of scientists. It might be a little slower to do it in the lab, but at least nobody gets hurt,鈥 Laustsen says.

Medicine鈥檚 history of human experimentation is dark enough already. But Glanville doesn鈥檛 believe he鈥檚 made Friede into a human lab rat. Friede, he says, is the rare case where scientific curiosity drove someone to voluntarily do extreme things to their own body.

Not long after Glanville connected with Friede, on a muggy July morning in 2017, a woman in a little blue car showed up at Friede鈥檚 house in Osh颅kosh, drew 20 milliliters of his blood, and shipped it to Distributed Bio in South San Francisco. Then Friede grabbed a syringe and a vial of taipan venom from the fridge and shot it into his thigh. For the next 19 days, he injected escalating doses of western diamondback, black mamba, and taipan venom, following his normal immunization schedule. On the 28th day of the experiment, the woman in the blue car returned, retrieved more blood, and again shipped it to Distributed Bio.

The two samples gave Glanville and his team before and after snapshots of Friede鈥檚 immune system. By comparing them, Glanville could tell if Friede鈥檚 antibodies were actually evolving to better neutralize the toxins鈥攁nd if they were, how well they were doing that job. Determining that would take Glanville and his team more than a year.

Glanville offered to host Friede at his family鈥檚 farm in Guatemala, but Friede owed so much money in child support that he couldn鈥檛 get a passport. 鈥極bviously, it hasn鈥檛 worked yet,鈥 Friede听says of the antivenom project. 鈥榃ill it? Yes, it f鈥攌ing will.鈥

Glanville was aware that Friede was injecting himself throughout the four weeks between blood draws. I asked him if he was concerned that his subject might be taking too many risks during a period when he was technically participating in a Distributed Bio study. Glanville was adamant that he鈥檇 never asked Tim to inject venom and that their research was strictly passive. 鈥淥ur conclusion was that Tim was continuing his routine practice of boosting that he鈥檇 be performing whether or not we had run the study,鈥 he wrote to me in a long e-mail explaining the rigorous biomedical-ethics considerations he thought through in advance of the study. 鈥淲e just took blood samples during his process. We asked him what his schedule was but did not influence it. Thus our study never exposed Tim to any new risk.鈥

Glanville also pointed out that he鈥檚 taken steps to ensure that Friede doesn鈥檛 become antivenom鈥檚 , the never compensated source of one of the most significant cell lines in medical research. From the outset, Glanville said he鈥檇 make certain that Friede would have a significant stake in any future profit from his cells, and he made that legal in April 2019 when they signed an official contract.

Although he and Friede are partners there鈥檚 a vast disparity between what they each have riding on the research鈥檚 success. For Glanville, the work on a broad-spectrum antivenom is something of a side project that, even if it yields a marketable product, won鈥檛 generate anything close to the profit his work on influenza, cancer, and HIV might someday generate.

Friede, meanwhile, has gone all in. Within weeks of Glanville鈥檚 first blood draw, Friede found reason to quit the $50,000-a-year truck-assembly job he鈥檇 held for eight years. 鈥淭here are things I know on paper that are pretty sweet,鈥 he told me. 鈥淰accine wise. Money wise.鈥 He said he thought his partner had already invested 鈥減robably in the millions鈥 and that Glanville was 鈥渂anking on stuff he knows is going to work. Otherwise he wouldn鈥檛 do it.鈥 (Glanville estimates his costs so far at closer to $30,000, compared with $300,000 he鈥檚 put into influenza.) The bulk of Friede鈥檚 income between November 2017 and October 2018, when he took a job delivering pizzas, was $6,680 that Distributed Bio paid him for 鈥渞esearch funding.鈥 After Glanville discovered Friede was broke, he offered to host him at his family鈥檚 farm in Guatemala, but Friede owed so much money in child support that the U.S. government wouldn鈥檛 issue him a passport.

鈥淥bviously, it hasn鈥檛 worked yet,鈥 Friede says, betraying a hint of remorse before washing it away with his familiar optimism. 鈥淲ill it? Yes, it fucking will.鈥


When Friede and I first talked, I had my own ethical dilemma to work through. A couple of months before meeting him in Green Bay, we discussed him being bitten by a snake for this story, something he said he was happy to do. But as we got closer to the interview date, I began to have second thoughts. What if something happened? So, the morning after we鈥檇 closed out the bar at the steakhouse, where I鈥檇 heard him boast about his big plans for a water cobra bite with me as a witness, I asked Friede not to go through with it. There was plenty for me to watch on YouTube, I explained. Friede seemed to understand and agreed.

That attitude changes over the course of our second day together. We鈥檝e just finished a late-afternoon lunch at a diner near his home, accompanied by Friede鈥檚 girlfriend of four years, Gretchen Greeley. An animal lover with a sharp intellect, Greeley works as a cook and has become something of a stabilizing force for Friede. He calls her 鈥渢he most fun part of my life.鈥

Last fall they went through a rough patch. After a year in Oshkosh, the couple moved to Green Bay, where Greeley grew up and Friede鈥檚 ex-wife lives with their two sons. They were unable to find a rental willing to take their pit bull, however, so Friede and Greeley lived at a Motel 6 for a month with their two dogs and a polydactyl cat named Wednesday Absinthe Adams. A couple of weeks ago, they moved into the 400-square-foot attic apartment where we鈥檝e been watching YouTube videos of the 鈥渕ost brutal鈥 snakebites of Friede鈥檚 career.

And we鈥檙e drinking. A pile of empty Steel Reserve tallboys and white-wine minis crowd the garbage can. An industrial-metal band that Greeley and Friede like plays on an antique-looking radio. By the kitchen sink, in a black crate that Greeley pulled out almost two hours ago, are a pair of water cobras. Wednesday Absinthe Adams and another cat are wrestling on top of the crate, and I can sense Friede, now splayed out on the couch, plotting his move.

For ten minutes, Friede pokes and prods the cobra to elicit a bite. A week ago, after 11 months without a booster shot of cobra venom, he injected a lethal dose an hour before he and Greeley were supposed to be at her parents鈥櫶齠or Thanksgiving dinner.

He takes another nip of whiskey and then stretches out his arms. At some point tonight he put on my down jacket, which is much too small for him, and he鈥檚 now making noise about keeping it in exchange for showing me what I鈥檇 asked him not to show me.

鈥淵ou didn鈥檛 come all the way out here to see nothing,鈥 he says.

I鈥檝e had a few drinks myself, and curiosity is getting the better of me. 鈥淚 do want that coat back,鈥 I say. Greeley silently fetches the crate and places it at Friede鈥檚 feet.

鈥淔ear is kind of a fucking weird thing,鈥 he says. He removes the lid, and two water cobra heads levitate above the rim to investigate, each banded black and gold. 鈥淣aja听补苍苍耻濒补迟补,鈥 Friede says, pausing for effect. 鈥淭he most venomous snake in Africa.鈥

Friede thrusts his hands into the crate and comes up holding the two snakes, each about six feet long. One cobra then slides with remarkable speed and very little aggression up the baffles of Friede鈥檚 jacket鈥攎y jacket鈥攖oward his neck. He grabs it and moves his hands beneath its belly like he鈥檚 pouring sand from one hand into the next.

鈥淚t鈥檚 almost like we know each other,鈥 he says. 鈥淪ee how gentle I am with these animals?鈥 And he is, until he starts tapping one snake鈥檚 head against his wrist. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not going to bite are you?鈥 he whispers.

For the next ten minutes he pokes, prods, pats, and pets, all to elicit a bite. If he鈥檚 afraid, you鈥檇 never know it. A week ago, to prepare for this interview, he injected a lethal dose of water cobra venom. It had been 11 months since his last booster shot, and he administered it an hour before he and Greeley were supposed to be at her parents鈥 for Thanksgiving dinner.

鈥淔uck you for that, by the way,鈥 Greeley says, reminding Friede that no antivenom exists for water cobras. She says that when she saw what he鈥檇 done that night, she cried and nearly passed out.

鈥淐ome on, hon,鈥 Friede responds. 鈥淚 just wanted to know what would happen.鈥

With the recent booster, Friede is confident that he can survive a bite from each of these cobras, but they don鈥檛 seem interested. 鈥淐ome on, bite me. Bite me,鈥 he says. Their jaws stay shut.

鈥淕et me a cup,鈥 he tells Greeley, moving to plan B. She heads to the kitchen and rummages through the empty cabinets. The scales, glass vials, and insulin syringes he usually uses when shooting venom are still locked in storage, so Greeley makes do. She grabs a plastic bag and winds it tightly around a NyQuil measuring cup. Then she gets the dirty needle Friede requested. 鈥淚t鈥檚 more hardcore,鈥 Greeley explains, passing it over the cobras to Friede.

Friede pushes a snake鈥檚 head against the bag. Fangs puncture plastic, clear venom gleeks into the cup. He repeats the procedure with the other snake, then places the cobras back in the crate. His routine thrown off by Greeley鈥檚 improvised venom receptacle, he spends the next three minutes wrestling the tightly wound bag off the NyQuil cap. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not a fucking bomb, honey,鈥 Friede admonishes, his showmanship overwhelmed by childlike frustration. Venom finally flows into the syringe. 鈥淥h yeah, that鈥檚 enough to kill me,鈥 he says.

The needle goes in just behind the round bone on the inside of Friede鈥檚 left wrist. And that鈥檚 about it. Twenty minutes pass without incident. Three cigarettes go into Friede. His pit bull curls up with him on the couch, and he starts chatting about how water cobra venom is simple to beat. 鈥淚t鈥檚 really easy for him,鈥 Greeley says, pleased with the results.

I鈥檓 suddenly overcome by that special fatigue that follows an adrenaline overdose, feeling as though the three of us have just survived something profound. Reluctantly, Friede returns my coat. Then I lower myself down the attic stairs and head into snow that has just started to fall.


In the parts of the day when Ray Newland, the 27-year-old scientist who Glanville appointed to the antivenom project, wasn鈥檛 panning Distributed Bio鈥檚 antibody libraries for clients, he worked with Friede鈥檚 blood. First he segregated ten million antibodies sequenced from it, an elevated amount for a normal adult and a possible indication that Friede really had done something special to his immune system. Newland arranged these into a searchable library and then began analyzing it for venom-specific antibodies.

One morning in April 2018, about a year into the project, Glanville and Newland pulled on biohazard suits, fitted themselves with rebreathers, and mixed saline into seven different types of dehydrated venoms that Newland had ordered online from a lab in France. Some were venoms Friede had immunized himself against and some were not. The varied sample would tell Glanville if Friede鈥檚 antibodies were working against any of the venoms present, and also if they were working to neutralize a venom his immune system had never seen before. The latter scenario would suggest the type of broad-spectrum reactivity necessary to build a new class of antivenom.

Ten million is an enormous number, so to cull the herd, Newland magnetized each of the seven venoms, then mixed them with Friede鈥檚 antibodies in a test tube. After ten minutes, he stuck a magnet against the side of the tube to pull out the venom toxins along with any antibodies that were sticking to them. Over the course of the next two weeks, Newland repeated this process three times, using DNA sequencing to count and clone some 1,200 of Friede鈥檚 anti颅bodies that had stuck to the venom. To further clarify which of these were actually targeting toxins, he then dipped them all into a cocktail of venom and other chemicals. If the antibodies formed a true bond to the toxins, that area of the plate would turn blue. Newland鈥檚 first plate did so. So did his next 12. Newland let out a scream, prompting a Distributed Bio tech to shoot footage on her phone that captured Glanville and Newland in lab coats dancing something like the Macarena.

Friede holds up one of the two photos he keeps on his fridge: an image his wife snapped with his dog and 6-year-old son just after Friede was bitten by for the first time by an Egyptian cobra.
Friede holds up one of the two photos he keeps on his fridge: an image his wife snapped with his dog and 6-year-old son just after Friede was bitten by for the first time by an Egyptian cobra. (Peter Prato)

Within a week, Newland weeded out 282 binding antibodies and had hits on all seven venoms, including ones Friede hadn鈥檛 immunized against. 鈥淭im鈥檚 blood is the best chance the world has at a broadly reactive antivenom,鈥 Newland says. 鈥淲e are light-years ahead of the competition.鈥 Instead of a single antibody that worked against one toxin but not the whole venom, they had 282 that worked, in the lab, against many toxins in whole venoms鈥攁nd millions more to look through for an even better fit.

This was the breakthrough Friede had been seeking for almost 20 years. You could imagine him printing Glanville鈥檚 results, chewing the pages up into wads, and blowing spitballs into the faces of his naysayers. How good were his antibodies? In a $500,000 screener called the Carterra LSA that tests how strongly an antibody binds鈥攁 good indicator of whether it鈥檚 neutralizing its target鈥擭ewland found one that hit a toxin in black mamba venom with, he says, 鈥渁bout three times higher affinity than any drug on the market.鈥 It was a tighter bond than any Glanville had seen or been able to manufacture.

In December, Newland hosted a meeting with a consultant Glanville had hired to help Distributed Bio secure funding for more research. The company had a proposal in with the National Institutes of Health for $400,000, which included a full-time salary of $80,000 a year for Friede. It promised to do what had never been done before in antivenom research: use whole antibodies, first isolated from a human donor, to shut down black mamba and western diamondback venom in live mice. The venom of those two species contain proteins from most of the 13 deadliest toxin families that Glanville decided would need to be neutralized by a broad-颅spectrum antivenom. The antibodies would be 颅Friede鈥檚鈥攆ully human and unlikely to induce serum sickness, a problem with most existing antivenoms. And they could be dehydrated into a thermostable powder, so they wouldn鈥檛 need to be refrigerated. Glanville鈥檚 team was pitching the idea that the product could be carried by American soldiers anywhere they traveled and stocked in the rural clinics where it鈥檚 needed most.

Still, Distributed Bio鈥檚 scientists knew that landing a grant would be just the start. Drug development has notoriously low odds of success, and despite the recent surge in antivenom research spurred by the World Health Organization鈥檚 reclassification of snakebites, drug companies aren鈥檛 exactly clamoring for a new antivenom. In fact, the current single-species products on the market have earned so little revenue that Sanofi Pasteur, the industry giant, , leaving those snakebitten in large swaths of Africa to seek cures from traditional healers.

And there was that other issue hovering in the background: the murky ethics of exploiting Friede鈥檚 self-mutilation, a factor that could scare away potential investors. It鈥檚 a point Glanville still struggles with. 鈥淚f the cure really is in Tim,鈥 he asks, 鈥渨hy should 130,000 people have to die every year from snakebites?鈥


The day after Friede first met Glanville in South San Francisco, he shows up at Distributed Bio鈥檚 offices around 2 P.M. looking rougher around the edges than usual. Following dinner and sangria at a tapas joint the night before, Glanville took Friede and me to his favorite kava bar, where we sucked down several coconut shells of mildly stimulating mud. Glanville went home, but Friede kept the party going. On the Uber ride back to his hotel, he had the driver stop at a liquor store. Now, suffering a brutal hangover, he spends the afternoon with 翱耻迟蝉颈诲别鈥s photographer having his picture taken with Glanville. (鈥淣ot my favorite thing,鈥 Friede says.)

Later that evening, he and Greeley sit on the sidewalk in front of Distributed Bio鈥檚 offices. They鈥檙e taking a break from the company鈥檚 holiday party to smoke a cigarette. Rush hour is ramping up, and the sun is setting. Friede鈥檚 mood, full of optimism the night before, seems to have deflated all at once. Just before they鈥檇 come to San Francisco, he鈥檇 been fired from his pizza-delivery job because he鈥檇 failed to pay a ticket for a seatbelt violation. Worse was the situation with their two dogs. They鈥檇 kenneled them before they came to California, and now they鈥檙e worried they can鈥檛 afford to get them out.

鈥楾im鈥檚 blood is the best chance the world has at a broadly reactive antivenom,鈥 Newland says. They had 282 antibodies from Friede that worked against whole venoms鈥攁nd millions more to look through for an even better fit.

鈥淚鈥檓 just glad you got to see the ass part of this whole thing and the rock-star part,鈥 Friede tells me. 鈥淚 wish I had my job, my house, my kids, my life, but guess what? I don鈥檛. And if it took that to get this done, maybe it was all worth it.鈥

He presses his cigarette into the sidewalk and goes back inside to a Christmas party full of scientists and millionaires. Glanville, wearing an ironic holiday sweater, is chatting with an immunologist who is working to cure cancer. Friede orders a vodka cocktail from the bar and steps off to one side of the room with Greeley. It鈥檚 the last time I see them.

When he got back to Wisconsin, Friede sold his self-immunization kit and snake cages so he could afford to get the rest of his stuff out of storage. One day in January, he announced on Facebook that he was quitting self-immunizing. Hundreds of people liked the post or wrote encouraging comments. An era had ended. After an estimated 200 snakebites and 700 lethal injections, self-immunizing鈥檚 brightest star had retired.

Friede, now doing maintenance work at the steakhouse where we ate and still waiting for Glanville鈥檚 grant to go through, no longer has to punish his own body to save the snakebitten. With his antibodies in the hands of reliable scientists, he could do no more. When I reached him by phone in the spring, he told me he was making an effort to spend time with his kids. He would continue to do interviews for snake-themed websites, but only to promote the antivenom project and talk about how he鈥檇 move beyond self-颅immunizing. Life was starting anew, and it felt good.

But then, on March 13, he backslid when Greeley suffered a non-venomous bite from a python they were pet-sitting for a friend. 鈥淲asn鈥檛 going to post this. But had to,鈥 he wrote on Facebook. 鈥淢y GF gets nailed by a ball python. I laughed. Then I get hit by a water cobra twice.鈥 Old habits die hard.

Contributing editor Kyle Dickman wrote about surviving a rattlesnake bike in the June 2018 issue.

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Paradise Lost /outdoor-adventure/environment/camp-fire-paradise-california-wildfire/ Thu, 13 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/camp-fire-paradise-california-wildfire/ Paradise Lost

Inside the most destructive wildfire in American history, and why it will happen again soon.

The post Paradise Lost appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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Paradise Lost

Sometime before 7 A.M.听on November 8, Kit Bailey, an assistant chief with the , got a call about a new wildfire that sounded ominous. , an old Northern California gold-mining town notched into the windy and wooded Feather River Canyon.

Bailey, a 57-year-old German-Irish man with gray hair and a handlebar mustache, knew the area well. During a 39-year career that included stints as a hotshot, smoke jumper, and a chief officer on a Type 1 team, he鈥檇 fought many 鈥渟tubborn fucking fires鈥 in the canyon. Tucked into the Sierra Nevada foothills, the place had always provided ideal habitat for blazes, which could stay fueled for months by the grasses and pines clinging to the gorge鈥檚 steep walls.

鈥攏amed for a tributary of the Feather River鈥攄idn鈥檛 stay confined for long. A northwest wind blowing at 40 miles an hour pushed flames into a grassy swale on the canyon鈥檚 north slopes. Within minutes, 700 feet of hillside turned to ash. Soon the fire vaulted into a stand of ponderosa pines on the plateau north of the Feather. Smoke and heat tugged burning needles off branches. Then the wind snatched them up, and a blizzard of flaming matches was suddenly cartwheeling thousands of feet into the air. The needles landed a mile or more ahead of the main blaze, and new hot spots bloomed. The fire leapfrogged north and west, burning an area the size of Central Park every eight minutes.

Concow, one of dozens of unincorporated communities in the Sierra foothills, sits on a lake that was just four miles downwind of Pulga, and houses there were burning by 7:35 A.M. Awakened by flames in their driveways, some families jumped into the lake to survive. They spent hours on a small island, shivering through hypothermia in the reflection of burning homes. Many of the community鈥檚 700 people were severely burned听and at least eight died, including 48-year-old Jesus Fernandez. Smoke killed him outside his house, likely while he tried to catch his dog.

Meanwhile, the fire sprinted on.

鈥淕o hard,鈥 Bailey鈥檚 chief told him when he called for an update. Bailey drove north, his speedometer quivering into the nineties. His main concern was that the fire would do exactly what it was already doing: dash across the plateau where Concow sat, hurdle the west听branch of the Feather, and land in the pines听on the next plateau to the north. This area was home to Paradise, a town of almost 27,000 retirees and families. It contained 20 churches and an equal number of mobile home parks, a Kmart, a KFC, a hospital, and nine schools that served 3,500 kids鈥攎any of whom were just now climbing aboard school buses for the day.


In the months before the Camp Fire broke out, Northern California was experiencing similar conditions that led to the terrible , where wind-driven blazes destroyed 8,920听homes and killed 44 people.

Dry grass was a culprit in both disasters. On a research farm about 30 miles south of Paradise, scientists from the have, since 1978, measured how much grass or fine fuels grow every year鈥攁 critical factor in how quickly a fire spreads during dry months. Both 2017 and 2018 saw banner crops of grass, but with important differences in how they germinated and were nourished by rain.

Last year鈥檚 grass boom happened because of the wettest winter the Sacramento area had seen in 122 years. The 2018 crop emerged thanks to one damp month. Coming on the heels of a winter that provided far-below-average snowpack, March and April were warm and relatively wet鈥攑eak growing season. The grasses rioted; last spring, the U.C. Davis team harvested a bit more than 5,500 pounds of grass听per acre, almost twice the normal amount.

Then conditions worsened drastically. The last measurable rain was on May 25, and July was the warmest on record. The spring鈥檚 green grass turned brown and crispy. According to Brent Wachter, a Northern California forecaster who specializes in fire-related weather monitoring, the Sierra foothills became 鈥渁 tall mat of woven fire starters.鈥

Even before the Camp Fire, wildfires had caused historic damage. By November 7, they鈥檇 burned an astonishing 1.3 million acres in Northern California alone鈥攁bout 15 percent of the total land burned nationwide in 2018. That figure included a record-setting blaze that , along with , 90 minutes north of Paradise, , and created a little-known meteorological phenomenon known as . Those occur when the hot air lifting off flames creates a vortex when it鈥檚 hit by the prevailing breeze.

Then came the fierce dry winds. By late October, the high-pressure system that scorched California throughout the summer had drifted out over the Pacific鈥攁 seasonal trend that usually signals relief. But in the first days of November, that air slid east and south over Oregon before tucking in behind California鈥檚 Sierra Nevada on November 7. Next it shifted west. Around midnight, this huge balloon of warm, dry air bent over the crest of the Sierra and deflated, sending winds howling down the long western slope of the mountains and toward the Sacramento Valley.

The exact cause of the Camp Fire remains under investigation, but defective power lines may have provided the spark. Not long after 6 A.M. on November 8, a Cal Fire crew stationed at nearby Jarbo Gap drove into the Feather River Canyon after a fire was reported near a malfunctioning line鈥攁 common cause of wildfires, especially in extreme winds. Less than 15 minutes later, at 6:33, the crew鈥檚 captain, Matt McKenzie, was standing on a small dam on the Feather, looking north at a glowing spot on a ridge he couldn鈥檛 reach. There was no road access. The fire was already burning ten acres.

鈥淭his has got potential for a major incident,鈥 McKenzie told a dispatcher. He called for as many additional firefighters as could be found. But even if air tankers, engines, and hotshot crews had all been pre-positioned just moments away, it wouldn鈥檛 have mattered. Not in those conditions.


Gary Glotfelty, a wiry听75-year-old retired firefighter who lived on Paradise鈥檚 northeast tip, was just finishing his coffee on November 8 when his phone rang. It was the caregiver for his disabled 42-year-old son, Cody, who lived in a group home in the middle of town. They were now evacuating to the KFC, the caregiver said, a predetermined safety zone.

This worried Glotfelty. He left his wife, Rhoda, at home and rushed to pick up their son. But this wouldn鈥檛 be the usual four-minute trip. By 8:30 A.M., just two hours after the fire started, every side street in Paradise was packed with cars funneling onto the three roads that exited town to the west. The first major traffic jam was reported around 9 A.M. on Clark Road.

Most people had heard of the fire through texts or calls. Some heard about it from the police, who were driving through town, using loudspeakers to tell residents to 鈥淕et out now!鈥 Others got the word from neighbors going door to door, after they鈥檇 seen flames from their breakfast table, or when the walls of their mobile homes became too hot to touch.

Glotfelty turned left, edging his Ford 150 truck into traffic that was slowly inching forward. Then he saw fire behind the Christian Missionary Alliance Church, near Paradise鈥檚 town center. After 50 years in the field, Glotfelty had seen more destructive fire than almost anybody on the planet. Now he was a sitting duck in a traffic jam, stuck between the 200-foot flames of the main blaze鈥攔ipping toward town from the West Branch of the Feather River鈥攁nd a spot fire in the middle of town.听

The Camp Fire entered Paradise鈥檚 eastern edge at around 8 A.M. and kept riding the wind to the northwest. Swarming embers landed on pine needles piled on lawn furniture or in gutters of the trailers in Pine Grove Mobile Home Park, near where Glotfelty had first seen flames. Those embers glowed to life and, soon, one trailer in a park of 76 was burning. The radiant heat bubbled the siding on the mobile homes next door, and those caught fire, too. Within two minutes, entire rooms were engulfed. Winds gusting into the fifties blasted overhead, flinging embers from new fires downwind toward buildings and trees. It didn鈥檛 seem to matter how well-prepared a home was for fire. The Gross family lived on an immaculately cleared compound in homes built of stucco and concrete. The embers poured through the vents. They fled with their houses burning behind them.

As Glotfelty sat in his truck, the skies went black. Headlights blinked on. People started honking, pounding their steering wheels, but where could they go?


The Camp Fire catastrophe was 150 years in the making, and the reasons behind it are both complex and simple. The West is hotter and drier than it was a century ago. There鈥檚 more fuel to feed the flames, and more people living in places that are more prone to burn than at any point in American history.

Back before California gained statehood, , creating, at Paradise鈥檚 elevation, a forest of widely spaced pines that shaded native grass. California鈥檚 Native American inhabitants intentionally started most of those burns to manage undergrowth. When the tribes were conquered around the time of the 1849 California Gold Rush, so were most of the flames.

Lightning, of course, still started some fires, as it always had. Usually accompanied by rain from thunderstorms, lightning sparked smoldering fires that were relatively easy to deal with when the state of California first organized a wildland firefighting force in the 1940s. Meanwhile, that 鈥淥nly You Can Prevent Forest Fires.鈥 Over time, the annual acreage burned shrank to a fraction of the historic norms. But the forest didn鈥檛 stop growing. Without regular fires, places in the foothills near Paradise have grown dense with as many as 400 pines per acre听where a century ago only 40 pines per acre would have stood.

While the forests thickened, California boomed. The slapdash villages that 49ers built atop ridges to support the Gold Rush have long since been transformed into towns like Paradise. Engineers turned mining trails into highways. They plugged the state鈥檚 wild rivers with 1,500 dams and connected turbines to the great coastal cities, using 210,000 miles of power lines strung from the mountains听over pine forests, grasslands, and chaparral. This year, all that fuel was dried by and .

Until recently, California鈥檚 public utilities were often held liable for the damages caused by their equipment, scattered through all that fuel. , after the 2017 fires in Sonoma, those damages could total $15 billion for , the utility that provides power to all of Northern California.

The burden was so great that lawmakers and PG&E stockholders began to fear bankruptcy. But on September 21, 2018, the state government propped up the utility with . This was a case of听lawmakers trying to make the best of a听grim situation. Northern California couldn鈥檛 let its sole utility provider fail. Nor could it allow PG&E to keep increasing rates just to rebuild the cities that utility lines had caused to burn. So SB-901听said that wouldn鈥檛 have to shoulder the financial burden of repairing the cities ravaged by fires started by power lines. At least not alone. Instead, after power lines cause a disaster, the state would conduct a stress test to see how much of the damages the company could pay and still remain solvent. The amount left would be rolled into state bonds and sold on the open market. Lawmakers also added the stipulation that PG&E do a better job preparing for wildfires, including some things the utility was already doing.

In the past few years, the company has hired its own private firefighting forces to tamp out the flames its lines start, as other utilities in California have done. It also dedicated to forecasting wind and heat events. When such weather phenomena appeared, PG&E could power down before the winds peaked.

That didn鈥檛 happen before the Camp Fire, though.


Kit Bailey felt like a salmon swimming upstream. Still in the flats in the northern Sacramento Valley, he hit a thousand cars pouring bumper-to-bumper in both lanes down Clark Road. The fire column ahead was massive, eerily black, and bent parallel to the ground as it billowed smoke over the valley in volumes that would damage the state鈥檚 air quality for weeks. Bailey could see the fire rearing up. He leaned on the horn, then he ramped his truck onto the sloping shoulder to bypass traffic. By now, it was clear that recon was no longer his primary mission. He was driving to Paradise to save lives.

By the time Bailey made it to Paradise, at 9 A.M., the town was midnight-dark from smoke. On Pearson Street, one of the three streets that cross the town, a man wearing a black leather jacket, black jeans, and long hair flagged him down. He鈥檇 pulled his RV into a side street because his battery had died. He said his wife was sick inside.

Bailey grabbed a flashlight from behind his seat and jumped out, embers and debris whipping through the smoke, in winds of 48 miles per hour. He attached jumper cables. The RV鈥檚 engine turned over, coughed, and never fired.

鈥淵ou鈥檙e out of gas,鈥 Bailey yelled to the driver. The man had a gas can. 鈥淔ind some,鈥 Bailey said, pushing the can into his hands. 鈥淪iphon, steal, do whatever you need to do, but get gas. I鈥檒l be back to check on you in an hour. I鈥檝e got to get other people.鈥


The people of Paradise took fire safety more seriously than many in the Sierra foothills. Since recordkeeping started in 1911, wildfires have burned almost half of Butte County, which contains the city. Some years were worse than others. In 2008, on Paradise鈥檚 northern edge. The town evacuated and learned something scary in the process: with only four roads leading into and out of Paradise from the south, it took three hours for people to flee, and every evacuation road caught fire.

After 2008鈥檚 near miss, the two local , chapters of a statewide group formed after , redoubled their efforts to make Paradise safer. They started programs to help residents upgrade their vents so that embers were less likely to drop through them and burn homes. They raised money to thin the forest on the town鈥檚 perimeter, mailed reminders citywide telling people to pack before a fire struck, and conducted evacuation drills. Everybody knew that the roads woefully underserved a town of 26,000. But with a tax base tied to a median home value of $205,500鈥攃heap compared with the state鈥檚 $443,400 median鈥攗pgrading evacuation routes wasn鈥檛 realistic. Paradise鈥檚 residents would have to do what they could.

One improvement was a new evacuation system. In an attempt to limit the number of cars on roads, evacuation orders were staggered geographically. But the phone-based system could only contact people who had shared their numbers with fire departments. Fewer than 8,000 people had done so, and on November 8, when the city issued its first evacuation orders shortly before 8 A.M., only a fraction of those people got the notices, because officials only called the eastern quarter of town.


It took more than an hour for Gary Glotfelty to reach his son at the KFC. Cody was standing beside his caregiver in the smoky dark. Their greeting was brief. 鈥淐ody, get in the truck, We鈥檙e getting out of here,鈥 he said. By then, Glotfelty couldn鈥檛 go back up Clark Road because of traffic going south. So he looped back on side streets. West on Billie to Oakway. North on Oakway to Wagstaff. East on Wagstaff to Clark鈥攕till jammed. On Wagstaff, houses were ablaze. His wife was still at home, much closer to the main fire than they were. Walking was faster than driving. He parked his truck at the Cypress Meadows nursing home on Clark. Cody used to be a track star in the Special Olympics, so they ran. On the shoulder of stop-and-go traffic on Clark, dragging behind a suitcase that his son鈥檚 caregiver had packed for the evacuation, a 75-year-old man and his disabled boy ran home with fire closing in on both sides.

By this time, just after 9:30 A.M., most of Paradise鈥檚 electrical and communications infrastructure had blinked out: lights, land lines, internet, cell service. By evening, firefighters would completely drain the city鈥檚 water supply. The wind knocked down trees and power lines, which fell across side streets and main roads. Cars, idling for hours, ran out of gas and blocked or slowed traffic.

The town鈥檚 hospital, which sits on the canyon rim above the west听branch of the Feather, was especially vulnerable. Engine crews had prioritized protecting it. While they hosed down the hospital, nurses evacuated patients into ambulances. One ambulance caught fire as it fled. The patient inside survived only because passengers were pulled from the flames by an off-shift doctor. He wheeled the patient into a garage that firefighters had turned into a makeshift clinic. But the nurses couldn鈥檛 get everybody out of the hospital. The critical patients had to remain behind, and nurses volunteered to stay with them. One wing of the hospital caught fire and collapsed. By a miracle of great effort and good luck, firefighting stopped the blaze before it spread to the main building.

Paradise would burn for more than 24 hours. People took refuge in the parking lots at churches and听Kmart, in a football field, in antique stores, and in school buses packed with terrified and disoriented children. Some people died in flames, having never left their homes. Others died in the streets from inhaling smoke and the poisonous gases venting off houses and businesses. Others died when their cars caught fire. In the traffic jams, which vehicles burned and which didn鈥檛 was pure happenstance.


Bailey kept driving. He picked up a Latino man who was barefoot, who was holding his pants up because he didn鈥檛 have a belt, and moving along using a walker. 鈥淕et in!鈥 Bailey yelled, then he whipped the truck through debris and past engulfed mobile home parks toward the Ace Hardware on Clark and Pearson, which had become an impromptu drop point. Firefighters had used their engines to form a blockade around the parking lot and were hosing down flames closing in from all directions. Along with other first responders, Bailey was scooping people up wherever he found them and dropping them at the Ace, where police could shuttle them out of the city.

During one of his laps around town, Bailey found a young Asian woman who spoke broken English. She was outside the fire鈥檚 edge on Clark Road, hiking into Paradise in nice jeans, open-toed shoes, and a short-sleeve blouse.

鈥淲hat are you doing? Everything OK?鈥 Bailey asked. She was crying and kept saying, 鈥淢y parents, my parents.鈥 She got in. Bailey took her a mile closer to Paradise, where her parents lived on the edge of town. They drove through wind-driven fire, big and aggressive. They passed a lifted white pickup truck that had driven through an iron gate and rear-ended a Prius.

When they pulled up to the gate of her parents鈥 house, her mother, who looked 80, was in smoke beneath an oak tree, raking smoldering grass by her fence. The daughter got out. The mother and daughter hugged and cried. Then the mother yelled at her daughter to get the hell out of there. The mother stayed behind with her Rottweiler, two cows, and a rake, while Bailey took the daughter back to her car. When he drove into Paradise to collect others, a power line fell across the road and broke his windshield. He jumped out, cut it with bolt cutters, and drove on.

Eventually, he made it back to the RV where he鈥檇 met the man in a black leather jacket that morning. He had no way of knowing if he and his sick wife had escaped, but the RV hadn鈥檛 moved. It was now ash and melted metal.


When Glotfelty and his son made it to their house, they could see 30-to-40-foot flames curling up behind the structure to the northeast. Glotfelty鈥檚 neighbor had already laid out the fire hoses that Glotfelty kept in a shed since 2008, when that year鈥檚 fire had nearly destroyed the place. His wife rushed out the door. Glotfelty looked left. Fifty-foot flames were now standing up in four acres of blackberry bushes near the house. Fire was burning the mobile homes visible out their back door, and it was burning oaks visible out their front door. 鈥淕et him out of here!鈥 Glotfelty said to his wife about their son. He was staying. The last thing she saw in the rearview mirror was Glotfelty igniting his drip torch and laying a strip of fire鈥攁 final stand鈥攁round their home.


Late in the night of November 8, the winds began to die and the Camp Fire slowed in the grass and flats outside of Chico. By then, 55,000 acres had burned in a pattern that looked like a windsock. The blaze had spread 17 miles from its ignition point outside Pulga. Paradise was the biggest of the communities that burned. Concow, Centerville, Magalia, Irish Town, and Hell Town were also devastated and mostly gone.

The toll from that day is staggering. Cal Fire initially estimated that 2,000 structures had been lost and that nobody died. Since then, the numbers have climbed daily. It鈥檚 now at . Cadaver dogs, which are the best means for finding cremated bodies, have had to sniff through every burned structure or vehicle. So far, , many of those in or next to cars on evacuation routes, but most in their homes. With people still missing and hospitalized, the death toll will continue to climb.

for many of the more than 50,000 people displaced by the Camp Fire. Refugees spent their Thanksgiving eating meals of donated food, then retired to tents pitched on blacktop.

On a cold morning three days after Paradise was lost, Bailey and his staff gathered in an operational trailer parked at the incident command post at Chico鈥檚 fairgrounds. Some 3,000 firefighters were already on the job. Bailey looked exhausted. He鈥檇 spent his past year living like a deployed soldier. He fought the North Bay fires in October 2017 that killed 44. He鈥檇 also fought , which burned 1,063 buildings and a then record 280,000 acres; the Carr Fire in August in Redding, which razed 1,604 buildings, killed three firefighters, and sent eight townspeople to their graves; and at least seven more 鈥渕onster megafires鈥 in between. Now there was the Camp, deadlier and more destructive than all of those combined.

The Camp Fire is the blaze that experts have been warning about for a generation. When search and rescue teams finish collecting the dead, the closest comparison will be to fires like . But for students of fire like Bailey, the Camp Fire isn鈥檛 a relic; it鈥檚 the present and the future. Each of the . More than half of those burned since 2015.


At the same time the Camp Fire leveled Paradise, another urban-interface firestorm鈥攁s Bailey has started to call this new breed of blaze鈥攔ipped through Malibu. . That morning, about these fires being wholly preventable through better forest management. Yet once the Camp Fire was burning, no management could have prevented disaster. Paradise is ash because a mat of grass, dried out by climate change鈥167-plus days with no rain鈥攃aught fire during a sustained 40-mile-an-hour wind.

President Trump was right that forest management is part of the fix. As is rewriting building codes so that all new construction is fire wise, tightening and diversifying regulations on greenhouse emissions, and modernizing the insurance industry so that homeowners are incentivized to harden their houses against fires. Lighting more prescribed fires to decrease the intensity of the burns that do go rogue will also help. But even a vigorous combination of these measures would only slow the damage caused by megafires, not stop it. Like coastal cities facing rising seas, the reality is that 39 million people now live in a tinderbox that鈥檚 only getting more flammable.

Bailey, like many firefighters, thinks the best way to limit the damage is to limit ignitions, particularly during peak winds. That means fixing the power-line problem, which will be a long and expensive challenge. After the disaster on November 8, PG&E faced insolvency. If its lines are found to be the source of the Camp Fire, as they were in last year鈥檚 Tubbs Fire that burned Santa Rosa, the utility could be staring at an additional $15 billion in liability鈥攂ringing the total up to $30 billion in just two years. The company鈥檚 insurers would pay only 10 percent of that. On November 7, PG&E鈥檚 stock was steady at $50 a share. A week after the Camp Fire, .

Then, on November 15, by declaring that it would be using the authority provided by Senate Bill 901 to pass any potential costs to taxpayers. If PG&E鈥檚 power lines caused the Camp Fire, its customers will pay to fix or clean up Paradise. Many firefighters view this as a criminal bailout. But what choice did California have? PG&E is the state鈥檚 largest utility. If it failed, the Bay Area, the state听capital, and five million homes could go dark.


In the trailer, Bailey and three more chiefs from California鈥檚 Office of Emergency Operations began to list other towns they considered just as vulnerable as Paradise, including Wrightwood, Idyllwild, Devore, Placerville, Nevada City, Santa Cruz, Scott鈥檚 Valley, and San Luis Obispo. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e everywhere, and not just in California,鈥 Bailey said, before taking a moment to look at his boots.

That afternoon, he drove back to Paradise to check on Glotfelty. When Bailey pulled up to the house, a PG&E utility truck was moving a power pole that had fallen and blocked the driveway. Smoke was puffing up from what had been blackberries, and a California quail shuffled beneath a burnt oak and bobbed its head.

Glotfelty鈥檚 house and that of his neighbors survived. They were the few standing buildings in a city that looked like Dresden after it was bombed in World War II. Glotfelty鈥檚 backfire-and-nozzle work had protected the houses, and he鈥檇 survived the firestorm in the safety of the burned fuel it had created. 鈥淲e saved the insurance company $700,000 in houses,鈥 Glotfelty told Bailey, but he was already regretting his heroics. Services wouldn鈥檛 return to Paradise for years, and they may never come back. Yet he now owned a home here that he couldn鈥檛 sell, and听without money from insurance, he couldn鈥檛 afford to buy another somewhere else. 鈥淚鈥檓 too old to start over again,鈥 Glotfelty said.

After three days in Paradise without a phone, he鈥檇 just learned that his wife and son made it out alive. Cal Fire had caught and corralled them and 140 others in a parking lot on the corner of Skyway and Clark. For the rest of the day, they huddled in the smoke, shivering in winds up to 40 miles an hour. Cody, an Eagle Scout, had handed out the clothes his caregiver had packed in his evacuation bag so that people had something to hold over their faces.

Glotfelty was now off to Orville to see his son and wife. Before he left, he pulled from his pocket a silver dollar he鈥檇 saved from his days pumping gas in Reno in the sixties. A small gift, he said, pushing it into Bailey鈥檚 palm. 鈥淭o remind you of this event,鈥 Glotfelty said and he headed out of Paradise.

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What We Learned from the Yarnell Hill Fire Deaths /outdoor-adventure/environment/what-we-learned-yarnell-hill-fire/ Tue, 30 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/what-we-learned-yarnell-hill-fire/ What We Learned from the Yarnell Hill Fire Deaths

One of the worst tragedies in the history of firefighting prompted little change to a culture that regularly puts young lives at risk. A few seasoned veterans are working to fix that.

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What We Learned from the Yarnell Hill Fire Deaths

Around 4:00 p.m. on June 30, 2013, a 30-year-old hotshot named Christopher MacKenzie pulls a camera from his pocket and shoots a short video. Downhill from him are ten firefighters, all members of the Granite Mountain Hotshots. In the background, the Yarnell Hill Fire sweeps toward the 650-person town of Yarnell, Arizona. On the radio in the background is the voice of the crew鈥檚 superintendent, Eric Marsh. He鈥檚 somewhere nearby and hints at playing witness to coming disaster. 鈥淚 was just saying I knew this was coming,鈥 he says. 鈥淲hen I called and asked you what your comfort level was, I could just feel it鈥攜ou know, too bad.鈥

鈥淚 copy,鈥 says Jesse Steed, the crew鈥檚 second in command. 鈥淎nd it鈥檚 almost made it to that road we walked in on.鈥

In that moment, the fire was exploding with a fury most of the several hundred firefighters battling the blaze remembered only as 鈥渦nprecedented.鈥 One called it 鈥減andemonium.鈥 MacKenzie and his crew were watching this unfold from the safest place on the fire: in the already burned brush high on the same ridge where lightning had started the blaze two days earlier. Less than 50 minutes later, MacKenzie, Steed, Marsh, who had rejoined the crew, and 16 other hotshots were dead in a canyon a mile and a half away, burned to death a short walk from the safety of a ranch on the edge of Yarnell.

The death of 19 Granite Mountain Hotshots, which I wrote about for this magazine and, later, , marked the worst wildland fire disaster in almost 100 years. In the hours after, the Arizona State Forestry Division commissioned a report to find out what happened. Why had the men left the safety of the ridge? For three months, a team of 18 interagency investigators combed over any shred of evidence they could find. They interviewed every firefighter of consequence working the blaze. They took Granite Mountain鈥檚 sole surviving member, Brendan 鈥淒onut鈥 McDonough, back to the knoll where he last saw his crew. They scoured dispatch records, weather and fuel data, photos, social media posts from firefighters on the blaze, and accounts from civilians. MacKenzie鈥檚 partially melted camera was found, having survived a fire that burned hotter than 2,000 degrees. All of the information the investigators collected went into a 116-page record of the tragedy that they hoped could be studied to avoid similar incidents. Yet the investigation felt incomplete. After MacKenzie鈥檚 video, the record went spotty for the critical window between when the hotshots left the safety of the ridge and when they reappeared in the canyon minutes before their deaths. Nobody can say for certain why they left.

鈥淎ll of a sudden, all this other chaos happened. The clarity, the certainty,鈥 says Brad Mayhew, tossing his hands up like he鈥檚 throwing confetti. He served as the lead investigator on the report commissioned by the state forestry division immediately after the fatalities. This fall, he agreed to meet me in Yarnell and walk the hotshots鈥 final steps. It was late afternoon and 100 degrees on September 11. We sat where MacKenzie had shot the video, looking out at the long valley. In the years after the fire, the valley has regrown green but is not yet shaggy. Surrounding us were pyramids of small rocks stacked atop bigger boulders. Mayhew, who is 38, with a salted black beard and a voice that鈥檚 deep like that of James Earl Jones, pulled up MacKenzie鈥檚 video on his phone to confirm our location. It immediately became clear that somebody had piled the rocks to mark where the ten hotshots had sat or stood in MacKenzie鈥檚 final video. 鈥淚t鈥檚 somber,鈥 he mustered.

For most of an hour, we sat among those stones, eating nuts while talking with a big view of the landscape where the tragic fire burned. All the unknowns surrounding Granite Mountain鈥檚 deaths bred distrust and blame, and all that emotion soon translated into lawsuits from the some the hotshots鈥 families. Collectively, they sued the state for wrongful death, settling for $670,000, which was divided among the aggrieved. The fire community clammed up after the lawsuits. 鈥淛ust talking about Yarnell became radioactive,鈥 Mayhew says. A warm wind was pulling up from the desert and blowing across our backs. 鈥淗ow can this profession make progress if people aren鈥檛 comfortable talking about it publicly?鈥

Most fire fatalities have forced significant safety and cultural changes to wildland firefighting. In an age when fires are getting more dangerous and the need to fight them more pressing, what, if anything, has changed after Yarnell?


In January 2014, 11 veteran firefighters from the nation鈥檚 biggest fire agencies鈥攖he vanguard of fire, as they were described to me鈥攎et in Yarnell. They hiked along the route the hotshots had likely taken from the ridge into the canyon where the 19 died seven months earlier. They arrived at a startling conclusion. 鈥淲e could see ourselves making the same decision they鈥檇 made,鈥 said Travis Dotson, a member of the , a federally funded organization that helps firefighters improve their performance. Around the time of the field trip, Dotson and others formed an underground group called Honor the Fallen. Included in its couple dozen members were some of the highest-ranking firefighters from the various agencies in the wildland fire business: the Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management, and the Park Service. Their goal was to make sure Yarnell Hill, the most publicized event in wildland firefighting history, forced some much-needed changes to the job鈥檚 outdated culture. Three years later, they tried to spark 鈥渁n age of enlightenment鈥 in wildland fire. As Dotson distilled the shift in mindset, 鈥淏efore Yarnell, it was about getting better at fighting fire. After, it鈥檚 been about getting better at accepting death.鈥

Some context is needed here. Since 1910, more than 1,100 wildland firefighters have died on the line. 鈥淭here has never been a fire season that we鈥檝e escaped with no deaths, and many years reach well into the double digits,鈥 says Dotson, who used to be a smokejumper. 鈥淢aking it through a fire season without a death is a statistical impossibility.鈥 Historically, fire agencies responded to fatalities with investigations that sought to understand what happened. Since 1990, when a blaze killed six firefighters on an inmate crew, those investigations seemed intent on proving that dead firefighters broke rules鈥攕ometimes in ways that were criminal. This fervor peaked in 2001 in Washington state, when a fire killed four and the incident commander was charged with involuntary manslaughter. Traditionally, the agencies used the investigators鈥 conclusions to develop new learning tools, scientific labs, and, mostly, rules. Fatality fires spawned the 鈥18 Watch-Out Situations,鈥 the 鈥淭en Standard Firefighting Orders,鈥 and the ever-growing 118-page Incident Response Pocket Guide that most firefighters keep in their pockets today. Need a reminder on unexploded ordnance safety? That鈥檚 on page 27. A refresher on the alignments of patterns for dangerous fire behavior? Page 73. Best practices for a media interview? 111. It鈥檚 an astonishing document that matches problems to solutions, but it鈥檚 also something like the pamphlet a scout leader might hand a Boy Scout before dropping them into the Alaskan bush. Over time, the relationship between tragedy and rulemaking sewed into the culture the belief that firefighters die only when they break rules.

From the outset, the members of Honor the Fallen understood that Yarnell was unlikely to result in any official change. For one thing, Mayhew鈥檚 investigation was of a new wave that borrowed from the military鈥檚 tradition: They tried to understand what the firefighters knew in the moment rather than seeking fault in behavior. Instead of chasing 鈥渢he instant gratification of new rules,鈥 as Mayhew put it, they put the onus of making change on the fire agencies at large. But the approach seemed to fall flat. Granite Mountain was the rare unit operated by a municipality, and the big wildland firefighting agencies did all they could to publicly distance themselves from a tragedy that wasn鈥檛 their own. 鈥淲e treated this whole thing different because Granite Mountain had a different color blood,鈥 Dotson says.

Yarnell did prompt a modest update to the fire shelter, the flimsy aluminum heat shields the hotshots had died under, and the development of a new phone app that helps firefighters get weather updates in real time. But as Honor the Fallen predicted, it led to no significant policy changes.

In an age when fires are getting more dangerous and the need to fight them more pressing, what, if anything, has changed after Yarnell?

Then 2015 happened. That year, more acres burned than at any point in recorded history, and the Forest Service lost seven firefighters. That agency is one of many in today鈥檚 ballooning wildland fire business, but as the oldest and largest, it sets the industry鈥檚 culture. The chief at the time, Tom Tidwell, responded as tradition dictated. 鈥淗e said, 鈥業 don鈥檛 want another fire season like 2015,鈥欌 says John Phipps, director of the Forest Service鈥檚 . Tidwell had called him at home in Colorado late one November night and said, 鈥淚鈥檓 directing you and the leadership team of the Forest Service to come up with a way that we don鈥檛 have that kind of a season ever again.鈥 He gave Phipps鈥檚 team six months to come up with a way to stop firefighters from dying on the line. 鈥淲e have 10,000 firefighters,鈥 Phipps remembers thinking. 鈥淲ell, gee, what can we do in five to six months, get it deployed, and have it make a difference so that everybody goes home in 2016?鈥

They called it the Life First Initiative. It focused on 鈥渞educing the amount of unnecessary risk鈥 to firefighters鈥 lives. Tidwell鈥檚 directive reinforced that the Forest Service 鈥渁ccepted no loss of life鈥 and suggested 11 more rules. (A couple examples: 鈥淯nder no circumstances will mop-up be allowed under snags or fire-weakened trees.鈥 鈥淔irefighters are prohibited from working alone without radio communications or easy access to emergency medical skills.鈥) It provided firefighters no tools to assess risk or determine how much of it was necessary.

Because of swift internal backlash, these rules fell short of implementation, but they set the initiative鈥檚 tone. From the moment Life First came out, Honor the Fallen considered it a relic. The initiative didn鈥檛 mention that over the past three decades, the Forest Service鈥檚 fire force had mushroomed from 6,000 employees in 1998鈥攁bout a third of the agency鈥檚 workforce鈥攊nto a seasonal army that now gobbled up half the agency鈥檚 $4 billion鈥損lus annual budget and then spent hundreds of millions more in emergency funding. It didn鈥檛 mention that wildland firefighters鈥 primary job was no longer to save publicly owned trees for the timber industry to cut, but to place themselves between watersheds, infrastructure, cities, and often uncontrollable fires like Yarnell Hill. And most damning, it failed to acknowledge what the agency鈥檚 scientific arm openly states: that because of climate change, sick forests, and explosive population growth, every trend points to firefighters being asked to take bigger risks more often. The year after Life First鈥檚 release, 15 more firefighters died.

Honor the Fallen responded immediately after Life First鈥檚 release. 鈥淭hey attempted to deal with increased complexity with more rules, some of which just show a total disconnect from the reality of today鈥檚 wildland fire environment,鈥 says Mark Smith, a consultant for , a company with a 20-year history of advising the Forest Service on leadership and culture. 鈥淚f you accept that zero fatalities is unachievable, why would you establish it as an objective?鈥 On behalf of Honor the Fallen, Smith penned an essay called 鈥,鈥 in which he slaughtered the sacred cow that we could fight fires without firefighters dying. It was time to move the profession out the 1970s and into the 21st century, he argued. In other words, it was time for management to ignore the politics and accept that fighting wildland fire is a dangerous profession.

According to Smith鈥檚 calculations, at the start of each season, every wildland firefighter has a one in 1,600 chance of ending up in a coffin by year鈥檚 end鈥攁nd that doesn鈥檛 factor in serious injuries or near misses. With an average of 19 deaths a year, the job is roughly as dangerous as a soldier in training, a career where recruits sign a will when they walk into boot camp. (Because of Honor the Fallen鈥檚 work, some crews now ask their firefighters to do this.) The strange thing, Smith says, is that the Forest Service鈥檚 official policies still insist that more rules, or following existing rules better, would keep everybody alive.

Smith calls this paradigm a 鈥渓awyer鈥檚 dream,鈥 where the agency has unintentionally created 鈥渁 cover your ass鈥 environment by requiring that its firefighters follow rules that simply cannot all be simultaneously followed. While these rules are well intentioned and do indeed save lives, he says they also impose a false sense of control in a wildly chaotic environment. My favorite line of Smith鈥檚 from 鈥淭he Big Lie鈥 is this: 鈥淭here is nothing low risk about a 19-year-old hotshot driving an ATV loaded with fuel mix down a burning mountain at dusk after working a 12-hour day.鈥

Using formulas developed in the military, Smith, a former Army Ranger, calculated that the vast majority of firefighting operations exist in the medium- to high-risk zone. In other words, there鈥檚 a relatively high probability that a tree eventually crushes you, you step on a bee nest, grab the business end of a chainsaw, or get burned. Yet somehow, most firefighters Smith polled believe they work in a low-risk environment鈥攕omething more like a factory floor. He says that in the special forces, if the Rangers found it too dangerous to take an objective, they came up with a new plan. That鈥檚 not always the case in wildland fire.

鈥淚t doesn鈥檛 matter if it鈥檚 one house or one community,鈥 Phipps says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not part of our protocol to say, gee, we鈥檒l risk less here because it鈥檚 only one house.鈥 Put another way, under the current paradigm, the agency regularly risks the same number of firefighters鈥 lives to save an outhouse as they do the city of Denver.


When I asked Smith how a job as obviously dangerous as wildland firefighting came to be seen as safe, he reached back to 1910, when the Big Burn ripped a 3 million鈥揳cre hole into rich timber lands, killed approximately 76 firefighters, and kicked off the Forest Service鈥檚 100-year transition from a land management agency to one of the world鈥檚 largest fire departments. He says that back then, the firefighters were militias of men rousted from bars or ranches, and the public wasn鈥檛 all that concerned when they died. But die they did, and in great numbers: 25 in California near Griffith Park in 1933; 15 near Cody, Wyoming, in 1937; 11 in the Cleveland National Forest in 1943. In some ways, not much has changed. 鈥淯ntil now, there鈥檚 been this insidious cultural legacy where the belief has been if we can just get these low-paid resources to follow the rules, nothing bad will happen,鈥 Smith says.

The backbone of the fire service remains young men and women. Wildland firefighting is a seasonal job with a starting base pay of about $1,920 per month. An Army private makes slightly more than that, and their meals are paid for, plus all their lodging, retirement benefits, and 100 percent of their dental, medical, and vision insurance. Basic training for a soldier is three months. A rookie firefighter can battle blazes as intense as Yarnell if they can pass a week鈥檚 worth of online classes and heft a 45-pound pack over three miles in less than 45 minutes.

One reason young men and women might embrace the risk of firefighting is that the job promises big adventure. At least that was true for me when I was in my early twenties and fought fire. But it鈥檚 also true that slim budgets and great societal expectations drive risk onto naive kids. The entire Forest Service鈥檚 budget is a fingernail on the arm of the military鈥檚鈥$4.7 billion versus $717 billion. Yet every time a fire starts in a town鈥檚 backyard, politicians and the public demand an immediate and forceful response. Smith鈥檚 worry is that if the Forest Service admitted the incredibly high chance of death their people are exposed to, their firefighters鈥攐r maybe their families鈥攎ight demand fair compensation. And what land management agency can afford to pay that?

After writing 鈥淭he Big Lie,鈥 Smith followed up with another piece called 鈥淲hen Luck Runs Out.鈥 In it, he argued that not measuring risk or reward is completely at odds with the military (including the Coast Guard), commercial diving, or almost any other high-risk industry where accidents are accepted as an inevitability. He developed a chart that explained how wildfire agencies might adopt the technique. At the bottom, recreation lands and roads justified a low level of risk. Domestic animals and critical watersheds justified a medium risk. Smith felt a high risk was acceptable if they were working to mitigate threats to regional employment centers and human life. And undertaking extreme risk was OK in only one case: 鈥渧iable and saveable human life in imminent danger.鈥 It鈥檚 widely assumed that describes Granite Mountain鈥檚 intent on Yarnell Hill.

This type of risk assessment isn鈥檛 yet being done on the fireline. 鈥淚 see these changes taking ten years, maybe 15,鈥 Smith says.

But there鈥檚 reason to be encouraged. Independent of Life First, the Forest Service鈥檚 research arm is developing new ways to assess risk. Think of it as the Moneyball of firefighting. The project is led by Dave Calkin, an economist and numbers geek who works for the Forest Service in Missoula, Montana. Calkin is controversial in the fire service. His previous work has shown that the best tactic to take with fires burning under extreme conditions, like that spun up a tornado of flames and killed six people last July, is to treat them like a hurricane and get the hell out of the way. Lately, Calkin鈥檚 been applying economics to weigh the potential of tragic outcomes against the values firefighters try to protect. Quantifying these variables, he says, is the future of wildland firefighting. To sum up his work, Calkin quotes another Forest Service rule about when to fight a wildfire: 鈥淭he right place, the right time, the right reason. Up until now, the right reason has been left to firefighters to determine,鈥 Calkin says. 鈥淭hat should be a decision made by leadership.鈥

The entire Forest Service鈥檚 budget is a fingernail on the arm of the military鈥檚. Yet every time a fire starts in a town鈥檚 backyard, politicians and the public demand an immediate and forceful response.

Ideally, his work will help leadership decide when firefighters should be sent in and when they should wait. Models by Calkin and his team rely on layers of overlaid data. His maps show roads, ridges, rivers鈥攁ll the typical things found on a map. But they also show vegetation types (forest, brush, the density of dead trees compared to live ones), the perimeters of historic wildfires, and any perceived value at risk鈥攐wls, watersheds, towns. His team inputs current and forecasted weather for any given fire. The computer then determines the characteristics of the places where historic fires have stopped and where they haven鈥檛 and translates that information into a sort of paint-by-numbers risk map: red where a fire鈥檚 most likely to be most dangerous, green where firefighters have the best chance of stopping it, and yellow where they don鈥檛. His models use computers to scout fires and, by doing this, help remove emotion from risk assessment. So far, Calkin hasn鈥檛 run a simulation on the Yarnell Hill Fire鈥攖here鈥檚 no need to since the fire has already burned. But had they run the model on June 30, 2013, it almost certainly would have computed the risk as extreme and the likelihood of success at low to none.

鈥淲hen we commit firefighters, we want to make sure that the value a firefighter is protecting is worth the investment of the risk they鈥檙e exposed to,鈥 Calkin says. That鈥檚 not happening, yet. Currently, big agencies fight single fires for months on end, and the public seems content to fund the effort. But nobody is asking if it鈥檚 working. That鈥檚 because it鈥檚 hard to quantify the impact firefighters have on fires. How much bigger would California鈥檚 460,000-acre , now the biggest fire in state history, be if $100 million hadn鈥檛 been spent trying to control it? Would more than 9,000 homes have burned in last year鈥檚 Sonoma and Napa Valley fires if 11,000 firefighters hadn鈥檛 tried to stop them? Would they have killed fewer than 42 people? Calkins says too often, regardless of how the fire鈥檚 behaving, the assumption is yes. And that means big agencies keep shuttling hordes of firefighters toward the flames without knowing if they can actually do anything to stop them.

Last summer, Calkin鈥檚 tool was first put to the test in Arizona鈥檚 Tonto National Forest, where the Forest Service let a wildfire burn outside the small town of Globe based on his model鈥檚 predictions. It provided recommendations on where they could catch it should they need to, thereby allowing the agency to actively manage the fire while not necessarily fighting it. In the end, it burned 9,000 acres of fire-adapted forest, restoring health to the woods while thinning out some of the excess vegetation that may have otherwise put Globe and the firefighters sent in to protect it at greater risk should a fire spark on some dry and windy day in the future. That project was a dust fleck on the lens of forested lands that need restoration, but it represents a completely different approach to risk mitigation: one that prioritizes maintenance and calculated risk over a reactionary policy of total suppression.

鈥淲e鈥檙e trying to change a proud tradition,鈥 says Chris Dunn, Calkin鈥檚 colleague, who works at Oregon State University. 鈥淲hat we ultimately want to do is help firefighters become fire stewards.鈥


Back on the ridgetop, Mayhew plays the video MacKenzie shot here five years ago. There鈥檚 a moment where the video jumps that looks like an edit. 鈥淧eople seized on that and said we鈥檇 doctored the clip,鈥 says Mayhew, shaking his head. 鈥淭hey discounted the entire investigation because they thought they鈥檇 caught us in a lie.鈥 In fact, it was two separate but complete clips edited into one. Many firefighters don鈥檛 trust investigations. History gave them good reasons. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 because for a long time they went out and created reasons to blame workers,鈥 Mayhew says. As an independent contractor, he has made investigating fireline accidents his career.

The team鈥檚 reaction to Mayhew鈥檚 investigation was particularly strong. He thinks that鈥檚 because their investigation did what few others have before. They acknowledged that firefighting is high risk and people sometimes die doing it. In the final report, they didn鈥檛 cast blame, which made it harder to learn from the deaths and angered many people.

Around the time that Mayhew鈥檚 investigation was released, in the fall of 2013, online discussion boards cropped up that attracted fire professionals and hobbyists. One blog still active today has tens of thousands of comments. Too many of them are overseasoned with vitriol or dedicated to conspiracy theories鈥攕omebody ordered the men to leave the ridge; a backfire sparked by a homeowner killed the crew; the hotshots were amateurs. These commenters often accuse Mayhew of being a conspirator in a government coverup. He calls the accusation patently false. But what bothers him is that some of those ideas have infected the fire culture, and he鈥檚 constantly having to correct dangerous misperceptions. 鈥淚t鈥檚 comforting to think, 鈥業 never would have done that. I鈥檓 not like them,鈥欌 says Mayhew, who was a hotshot and still works as a firefighter. 鈥淭hey were just firefighters, and we鈥檙e just firefighters.鈥

Mayhew and I left the overlook and began hiking when the sun slipped below the Weaver Mountains and the peaks鈥 shadows stretched into the valley below. We followed the thin road that Granite Mountain took to their deaths. It was steep and rutted, and we both kicked rocks that tumbled downhill. We soon reached the point where the hotshots opted to drop off the ridge, through the canyon, and toward the ranch. We stood there for a moment. A turkey vulture rotated overhead. 鈥淒oesn鈥檛 it look like it鈥檚 right there?鈥 Mayhew asked of the ranch we could see at the head of the canyon. 鈥淟ike you could be there in five minutes?鈥

The uncertainty behind what drove those men, in view of that terrifying fire, to drop into a wickedly steep box canyon has generated the conspiracies that still haunt wildland firefighting today. In hindsight, it鈥檚 a hard decision to fathom. For his part, Mayhew tries to stay out of the swirling theories. He thinks the way to learn from Yarnell is to ask firefighters to put themselves in Granite Mountain鈥檚 boots and ask what could have lured them to make the same choice. On this point, he鈥檚 bullish. 鈥淭hey were trying to save lives,鈥 Mayhew says. 鈥淭hey knew people were threatened down there. That must have weighed on them.鈥

Whatever it was that pulled them off that ridge, after years of making necessarily risky decisions on the fireline, Granite Mountain missed something on Yarnell Hill. And the numbers simply caught them. Mayhew grunted and set off down the hill, hiking toward 19 crosses five minutes from a ranch.

The post What We Learned from the Yarnell Hill Fire Deaths appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2019 /outdoor-gear/snow-sports-gear/best-splitboarding-gear-2019/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/best-splitboarding-gear-2019/ The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2019

Because boot-packing takes too long

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The Best Splitboarding Gear of 2019

Because boot-packing takes too long

(Courtesy G3)

G3 Alpinist Plus Glide Skins ($184)

G3 tweaked the mohair-to-nylon ratio in its Alpinist skins to suit a variety of conditions and terrain. Our favorite: the 70 percent mohair, 30 percent nylon Glide. It鈥檚 downright zippy on low-angle tours.

(Courtesy Arc'teryx)

Arc鈥檛eryx Beta SL Jacket ($299)

A quality shell is a must on any backcountry mission, even if it mostly lives in your pack. Arc鈥檛eryx鈥檚 Beta SL tips the scales at less than 11 ounces. And with its cinchable hood, slim fit, and two-layer Gore-Tex, we were more than happy to bust it out when necessary.

(Courtesy Salomon)

Salomon Pillow Talk Splitboard ($800)

Terrible name, killer deck. Salomon took its women鈥檚 all-mountain Pillow Talk, cut it in half, and gave it a new core. The flex is on the soft side, but the board handled well in mixed conditions.

(Courtesy Dakine)

Dakine Poacher R.A.S. 26 Pack ($210)

With a whistle on the sternum strap (smart), a hydration sleeve in the main pack (nifty), and a rear-entry zipper (essential), the Poacher is full featured. But what we liked most is compatibility with Mammut鈥檚 top-end R.A.S. airbag ($490).

(Courtesy Salomon)

Salomon Speedway Splitboard ($900)

鈥淪uper fun, super light, very maneuverable,鈥 said one tester. With a wide nose that gives it great float in soft snow, the Speedway is ideal for beginner or intermediate splitboarders who focus on powder.

(Courtesy Black Diamond)

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Ski Touring Pants ($199)

These touring pants are made of four-way-stretch soft-shell material. They give in all the right places, and they鈥檙e breathable while still providing insulation. The tailored fit is a plus: call us hipsters, but we don鈥檛 like tangling our crampons in our pant legs.

(Courtesy Burton)

Burton Hitchhiker Bindings ($460)

The Hitchhiker is a collaboration between Spark, arguably the first name in split bindings, and Burton, arguably the first name in the fixed kind. The aluminum baseplates are light but durable, and the lever that releases the toe to switch to ride mode is glove-friendly.

(Courtesy Vans)

Vans Verse Boots ($390)

With a customizable insulating liner and a waterproof zipper shroud, the Verse is luxe. Hardy inserts can be removed to soften the boots for the climb up and replaced to stiffen them for the ride down.

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