The sound of shaving ice is unmistakable. The rasp, first pressed into the ice block, tense as a spring, suddenly surfs across the berg, scraping up a spume of glittering white snow as stray flecks flutter into the air. For some it may ring harsh, but under a blistering sun it signals imminent relief.

Shikashika鈥攖hat鈥檚 how Quechua communities near the Andes describe it. It鈥檚 a sound so recognizable that street vendors use it as an onomatopoeic term for their shaved-ice desserts. Elsewhere, similar treats go by other monikers. In the Hawaiian Islands, descendents of Japanese plantation workers have sold their version鈥攕have ice鈥攄rizzled with neon syrups and condensed milk, since the 1940s. Turkish bici bici, Italian grattachecca, Filipino halo halo鈥攖he list goes on.

Long before modern refrigeration, shaved-ice desserts emerged in various places around the world, especially in warm climes with access to ice from nearby mountains. On the U.S. mainland, however, they鈥檝e never been more popular than they are now. As T: The New York Times Style Magazine recently put it: shaved ice has taken over the dessert menu.

So what counts as shaved ice? Take the snow cone. With small shards of ice doused in colorful syrup, it鈥檚 not that different from shikashika or bici bici, but snow-cone ice is more crushed (i.e., crunchy) than shaved. In contrast, Hawaiian shave ice is made with fine, snowlike flakes, placing it squarely in its namesake territory. And unlike granitas and Italian ices, it鈥檚 made from pure, unflavored water.

One of the first documented forms of shaved ice is kakigori, which can be traced back to Japan鈥檚 Heian period, from 794 to 1185 AD. An early mention of kakigori occurs in , a book of musings written by Sei Shonagon in the 990s, which describes it as ice 鈥渕ixed with liana syrup and put in a new silver bowl.鈥� It earned a spot on Shonagon鈥檚 list of 鈥渆legant things.鈥�

Nowadays you don鈥檛 need to be in Japan to enjoy kakigori. In Orlando, Florida, couple Hiep Nguyen and Tammy Truong run , a year-old pop-up business that since October has resided in a 150-square-foot shop next to the Filipino restaurant . While Kaya made recent headlines as a James Beard Award finalist for best new restaurant, Koko Kakigori鈥檚 diminutive space has kept it a humbler affair. But make no mistake, Nguyen and Truong are masters of their craft.

Before becoming culinarians, the two co-owners made art. 鈥淎ll the skills we鈥檝e been using as artists we transferred to the shop,鈥� Nguyen says. Truong, for instance, makes many of the colorful ceramic bowls in the business鈥檚 mismatched collection of dishware. The menu, usually a handful of regular and seasonal flavors and a small selection of drinks, is written out by hand and adorned in watercolor.

The kakigori itself is also a work of art. Nguyen and Truong are both of Vietnamese descent, and they grew up in Orlando eating 肠丑猫, a sort of dessert soup often served with ice. But the two were drawn to the aesthetic qualities of kakigori鈥攗sually a mountain of shaved ice, where the nearly toppling-over pile is delicately dressed with syrups, milks, mochi, and fruit. Koko combines Vietnamese ingredients with the texture and look of kakigori. 鈥淚t鈥檚 technically 肠丑猫,鈥� Nguyen says, 鈥渂ut we鈥檙e repackaging it. We get to share Southeast Asian flavors with people who wouldn鈥檛 have tried it otherwise.鈥�

The couple鈥檚 wide-ranging inspiration is perhaps most evident in the ube coconut kakigori, partly an homage to the shop鈥檚 Filipino neighbor. The treat incorporates, among many house-made components, a cream made from the ube, or purple yam; pandan-infused Vietnamese jelly noodles called banh lot; and black sesame corn flakes, a Japanese-tinged nod to the cereal鈥檚 frequent appearance in halo halo.

Nguyen and Truong鈥檚 eclectic approach mimics 办补办颈驳辞谤颈鈥�s impact beyond its native country. In fact, both Hawaiian shave ice and Filipino halo halo originated as renditions of kakigori made by Japanese immigrants. Over time the three desserts evolved to look and taste completely different.

Shaved ice has and always will be an experiment. At first it was designed for cooling off; for Nguyen and Truong, the pursuit is as much about form and flavor. And while modern conveniences have made the dessert less rarified, with the sound of every scrape by hand or machine, the ice maintains its magic.

Shave Your Own

1. Source your shaver. The key to great shaved ice is texture. The achieves a fluffy, snowlike consistency with ease, although snow-cone makers or high-powered blenders work, too.
2. Pick a liquid. Homemade syrups are how you customize your dessert. Cook sugar and water in a one-to-one ratio with your favorite fruit or herb until the sugar dissolves, then strain and let cool before use. Or go the Filipino route with evaporated milk or coconut milk.
3. Experiment with toppings. Fresh fruit brings a pop of sweetness and color to your shaved ice, while toppings such as breakfast cereal or toasted coconut provide texture and crunch. Add a scoop of ice cream or drizzle with sweetened condensed milk for a more luxurious experience.
4. Assemble with gusto. Fill a glass or bowl with the ice, then apply your syrup. How much? 鈥淵ou kind of go on feeling, but I鈥檇 say safely about three ounces,鈥� Nguyen says. Then arrange your toppings to taste. If you鈥檝e got a crowd, set out bowls and squeeze bottles for a shaved-ice bar.

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