Erik Weihenmayer Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/erik-weihenmayer/ Live Bravely Thu, 12 May 2022 18:18:41 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://cdn.outsideonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/favicon-194x194-1.png Erik Weihenmayer Archives - 国产吃瓜黑料 Online /byline/erik-weihenmayer/ 32 32 鈥淒on鈥檛 Make Everest the Greatest Thing You Ever Do鈥 /outdoor-adventure/climbing/dont-make-everest-greatest-thing-you-ever-do/ Thu, 09 Jun 2016 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/dont-make-everest-greatest-thing-you-ever-do/ 鈥淒on鈥檛 Make Everest the Greatest Thing You Ever Do鈥

Surviving the world鈥檚 tallest mountain takes a lifetime, even if you come down unharmed. It leaves an indelible mark on your soul that one can only cope with.

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鈥淒on鈥檛 Make Everest the Greatest Thing You Ever Do鈥

May 25 marked 15 years since I became the first blind climber to summit Everest. It is still what I am most famous for, but in many ways the most influential moment of that trip happened after my descent.聽

When you get down from Everest, you鈥檙e worked. Your legs feel like rubber bands that have been stretched too many times, you鈥檙e coughing, you鈥檙e totally wind-burned and sunburned. I even remember my tongue was swollen. People dream of different things in those situations, but as a blind guy, I was dreaming of smooth sidewalks鈥攋ust being able to walk down a smooth sidewalk and not trip over a rock.聽

On my way down, at the bottom of the Khumbu Icefall, I stepped over the last little rivulet of water, and someone handed me a beer. I just stood there, thinking, Wow, everything鈥檚 good. And that鈥檚 when our team leader and guide, Pasquale 鈥淧V鈥 Scaturro, sat me down and said, 鈥淒on鈥檛 make Everest the greatest thing you ever do.鈥澛

I thought it was really inopportune timing. 鈥淲hat the heck? Let me go enjoy the sunshine in Colorado and lay in the park and hear my daughter,鈥 who was one year old at the time, I thought. I just wanted to relax.聽

When you come home from Everest there鈥檚 a lot of fanfare. I was the grand poo-bah at our town parade in Golden. You get a lot of attention. But the whole time, I was thinking about PV鈥檚 words and trying to figure out what he meant. Soon after my return, PV and I went climbing together in Clear Creek Canyon. He was belaying me, and I asked him about what he鈥檇 told me. He said, 鈥淭he biggest problem with Everest is that you finish and you get all your awards and pictures, and you put them up in your room, and then that room sort of becomes a museum鈥攐r, at its worst, a mausoleum鈥濃攚here your life dies afterwards. He was telling me not to stop living just because I reached the top of the world.

The real summit is when you come home and take the gifts you earned by struggling on Everest and use them to do something meaningful.

At first I didn鈥檛 know what I wanted to do after Everest. I kept climbing and went on to finish the Seven Summits in 2008. People were writing me letters, saying, 鈥淗ey, I鈥檝e got this great thing for you to do, I鈥檓 going to shoot you out of a cannon.鈥 But I didn鈥檛 just want to be the blind guy finding the next stunt; I wasn鈥檛 going to live my life as the blind Evel Knievel.聽

Then I got a letter from a blind German lady who was living in Tibet named Sabriye Tenberken. She was running a training center for blind kids who got spit on and were seen as the scourge. A lot of times society doesn鈥檛 know what to do with blind people. In Tibet, they can鈥檛 watch the yaks or do some of the physical labor, so they fall to the bottom of the caste system. But these kids were some of the most educated kids in Tibet.聽

Sabriye invited me over to spend time with the kids, and I organized a climb on the north side of Everest. I took six of them up a 23,244-foot peak called Lhakpa Ri. We almost got to the summit, but it didn鈥檛 really matter. Then I got home and somebody said, 鈥淭hat鈥檚 really cool, but what about people with challenges right here in America?鈥 So I started No Barriers USA with Mark Wellman and Hugh Herr, and we鈥檝e grown tremendously. We have 30 staff members and we work with thousands of people: youth, folks with physical disabilities, veterans, as well as people who are just lost and looking for purpose. We try to give them a map for how to rebuild your life after you get beat down, which happens in lots of different ways.

国产吃瓜黑料 took many different forms for me after Everest. I started kayaking when I was 40, and in 2014 I kayaked down the Grand Canyon. I鈥檓 47 now. I鈥檝e been back to the Himalayas probably 10 times since 2001 to climb. Seven years ago, my wife and I adopted a little boy from Nepal, Arjun Lama Weihenmayer. Now I鈥檓 working on my third book, No Barriers,聽which is coming out next February, and pondering PV鈥檚 wisdom all over again.聽

Everest still feels like it happened a moment ago. I鈥檓 glad I summitted at 32; I wasn鈥檛 so young and had more perspective to fall back on when I got home. The mountains are a beautiful place of solace, you get this great adventure and adrenaline, but they can also be an addiction, a way to avoid life. You keep thinking, How do I top this? But if you鈥檙e thinking it in the wrong way鈥攍ike, What can I put on my resume next?鈥攊t sends you down a very dangerous path. And I don鈥檛 think that leads to fulfillment.聽

The Sherpas always tell you the summit of Everest is only the 鈥渉alfway summit.鈥 鈥淔ull summit鈥 is when you鈥檙e back down at Base Camp. I think of it like this: the summit was an incredible place, but the real summit is when you come home and take the gifts you earned by struggling on Everest and use them to do something meaningful.

What鈥檚 the greatest thing I鈥檝e ever done? I honestly don鈥檛 know. Maybe it鈥檚 ahead.

*As told to Devon O'Neil

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A Blind Ascent: Summiting Everest Without Sight /outdoor-adventure/climbing/blind-ascent-summiting-everest-without-sight/ Mon, 14 May 2012 00:00:00 +0000 /uncategorized/blind-ascent-summiting-everest-without-sight/ A Blind Ascent: Summiting Everest Without Sight

ERIK WEIHENMAYER made headlines when he reached the top of the world's tallest mountain in 2002, and we recently included that expedition on our list of the greatest moments on Everest. But he wanted to remind us that such successes are often impossible without support.

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A Blind Ascent: Summiting Everest Without Sight

国产吃瓜黑料 recently published an article called “The 10 Greatest Moments On Everest.” Naturally, the list includes Tenzing Norgay and Ed Hillary鈥檚 first ascent and Reinhold Messner鈥檚 solo ascent. But my ascent is fourth on the list! That鈥檚 quite an honor to be included with those greats, as well as Tom Hornbein, Willi Unsoeld, Apa Sherpa, and G枚ran Kropp.

However, it鈥檚 important to remember that I couldn鈥檛 have reached the summit without my dedicated teammates. Being blind, I knew that no matter how good of a climber I had become, I wasn鈥檛 going to get to the top of Everest alone. After an ascent of Denali, I was fortunate to meet Pasquale 鈥淧V鈥 Scaturro at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Full of bravado, PV is a modern-day swashbuckler. He approached me and said, 鈥淚鈥檝e heard about you. Have you ever thought of climbing Everest?鈥 And in the next breath he asked if I wanted him to lead the expedition.

Assembling the rest of the team required careful selection of climbers with the right background and a high level of trust. We turned down a couple of amazingly talented climbers who we felt would interfere with team cohesion.

Once the final selections were made, we decided to climb Ama Dablam to test our skills and build our team strengths in a real Himalayan environment. From the start, our climb was plagued by terrible weather. Though we got close to the summit, we ultimately decided to retreat.

During the descent, Eric Alexander took a 150-foot tumble that banged him up badly. Although we were all good climbers, as yet, I didn鈥檛 have any indication that we were prepared for Everest. But when Eric fell and went into shock, the team really stepped up. First, our laid-back doctor, Steve Gipe, kicked into gear, retrieving the cache of oxygen bottles we had set aside for emergencies, racing back up to Eric, and slowly nursing him down the mountain. The rest of us, much higher up, worked through the storm carrying down loads. Without any prompting, different team members took turns guiding me down the icy ridge in the darkness and wind, and around 1:00 a.m. we straggled into Base Camp thoroughly spent. Surprisingly, that crisis didn鈥檛 shut us down. Instead it catalyzed us, from a group of individuals into a real team.

A month before we were ready to leave for Everest, Eric was still having lung problems from his injuries that had developed into pulmonary edema. He hadn鈥檛 been able to train most of the year. He told me I should kick him off the team. 鈥淓ric,鈥 I said, 鈥減eople have been counting me out my whole life. If I did that to you, what kind of hypocrite would that make me?鈥 He thought a moment and said, 鈥淒amn. Then I guess I鈥檒l go. I don鈥檛 think I鈥檓 strong enough to get to the summit, but I know I鈥檓 strong enough to help you get there.鈥

On our summit day, two of my teammates, Brad Bull and Jeff Evans, were out in front and were faced with a dilemma. At the base of the South Summit, they looked up to see two sets of fixed lines. On the left was a relatively easy route for sighted climbers, but climbing jumbly, unconsolidated rock is a lot harder for me. The snow slope on the right would be a lot easier for me, but that rope was buried a foot under from a recent storm. Instead of ascending the rock, Brad and Jeff spent two backbreaking hours pulling the ropes free, exhausting work at 28,000 feet.

For me, what was even cooler than my reaching the summit was the fact that 19 of 21 of my teammates reached the top that day, the most climbers from a single team to reach the summit in a single day. Lots of 鈥渆xperts鈥 said my climb was a big mistake and would result in a disaster. Instead, we made history. Guys like PV, Eric, Brad, Jeff, and all the rest of my friends stepped up in a hundred different ways that made the difference. More than 10 years later, I still look at this team as the best I鈥檝e ever been a part of.

And by the way, each team member has used that experience to do great things in the world. Luis Benitez went back to climb Everest six more times. PV rafted the Blue Nile from source to sea. Our base camp manager, Kevin Cherilla, led a quadruple amputee to the top of Kilimanjaro. Others have climbed Himalayan peaks with blind Tibetan teenagers who were ostracized in their society because of their blindness. Right now, teammate Charley Mace, is attempting Everest鈥檚 West Ridge as part of a team sponsored by First Ascent. Go get 鈥榚m, Charley.

Last year, we all got together to celebrate our 10th anniversary by taking a team of soldiers injured in Afghanistan and Iraq up Lobuche, a 20,000-foot peak near Mt. Everest. We鈥檝e just recruited another team of injured military to take part in the second Soldiers To Summits program. You can learn more about this work at .

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