鈥淚t felt like a golden era of trail running.鈥澨�

That quote came from Keith Byrne, a senior manager at The North Face and a UTMB live stream commentator for nearly a decade, who was talking about last summer鈥檚 UTMB World Series Finals in Chamonix, France.

The UTMB races during the last week of August last summer were, I thought, the most alluring in the event鈥檚 20-year history.

After years of being frustrated by the course, American Jim Walmsley finally put it all together for a victorious lap around Mont Blanc. In doing so he became the first U.S. man to win the race, setting a course record of 19:37:43. He and his wife, Jess, had moved from Arizona to live full-time in France to make it happen. And then there was Colorado鈥檚 Courtney Dauwalter, who won the race handily in 23:29:14 to notch her third victory and continue the strong legacy of American women on the course. The win felt extra historic because it made her the first person to win Western States, Hardrock, and UTMB in the same year鈥攁rguably the three most legendary and competitive 100-mile events in the world, and she dominated each one.

The events came off without a hitch and included record crowds in Chamonix, plus a record 52 million more tuning into the livestream.

Throughout the fall and winter, harmony and happiness seemed to give way to chaos and discontent. But a year later, as the听UTMB Mont Blanc weeklong festival of trail running kicks off on August 26, everything seems back to normal in Chamonix. What happened along the way is a tale of drama, perhaps both necessary and unnecessary, all of it culminating in course corrections by the multinational race series.

In short, what a year it has been for UTMB.

And now, hordes of nervous and excited runners from all corners of the globe are descending on Chamonix for this year鈥檚 UTMB Mont-Blanc races. Registration for UTMB World Series events is reportedly up about 35 percent year over year with even greater growth in interest for OCC, CCC and UTMB race lottery applications. There is more media coverage, more pre-race hype, and more excitement than ever before. More running brands are using the UTMB Mont Blanc week to showcase their new running gear with media events, brand activations, and fun runs. Even The Speed Project鈥攁lthough entirely unrelated to UTMB鈥攃hose Chamonix as the starting point of its latest so-called underground point-to-point relay race to try to catch some of the considerable buzz UTMB is generating.

So what happened? Did the UTMB organization do its due diligence and make amends with several significant changes in the spring? Was the angst and stirring of emotions just not as widely felt as the fervent bouts of Instagram activism claimed it to be? Have the participants and fans of the ultra-trail running world suffered amnesia or become ambivalent? Or is it all a sign of the race鈥攁nd the entire sport of trail running鈥攇oing through growing pains as it adjusts to the massive global participation surge, increased professionalism, and heightened sponsorship opportunities?

On the eve of another 106-mile lap around the Mont Blanc massif, I wanted to take a look at what happened and the current听 state of UTMB鈥檚 global race series that culminates here in Chamonix this week.

Justifiable Criticisms and Online Activism听

We caught a glimpse of what was to come shortly before UTMB last year, when the race organization announced the European car company Dacia as its new title sponsor. A fossil-fuel powered conglomerate didn鈥檛 sit well with some fans of the event, coming amid an era of widespread climate doom (even though the brand would be highlighting its new Spring EV at the UTMB race expo.) The Green Runners, an environmental running community co-founded by British trail running stars Damian Hall and Jasmin Paris, called it an act of 鈥渟portswashing鈥� and released a petition calling on UTMB to denounce the partnership. (Hall even traveled all the way to Chamonix to deliver the petition in person.)

These grumblings of discontent and others that followed exploded into a social media firestorm shortly after UTMB. In October, it became public that UTMB had moved to launch a race in British Columbia, Canada, just as a similar event in the same location was struggling with permitting. A he-said, she-said back-and鈥揻orth left onlookers with whiplash. Then on December 1, UTMB livestream commentator Corrine Malcolm announced on Instagram that she had been fired and in late January, a leaked email from elite runners Kilian Jornet and Zach Miller to fellow athletes called for a boycott of the race series. All of it, jet fuel for social media algorithms.

鈥淲e鈥檙e at a turning point in trail running, but we can keep the core values if the community stands up,鈥� the Pro Trail Runners Association secretary, Albert Jorquera, told me at the time.

In the midst of these dramas, I interviewed race founders Catherine and Michel Poletti over lunch at a Chamonix cafe. For nearly a decade now, I have met with the couple for candid conversations that helped frame online articles and magazine stories, and most recently for the book, .

I plunged headlong into two articles with hopes of explaining it all. There was so much heat swirling around the UTMB stories, and so little light.

鈥淭he very thing that made ultrarunning so bonding was being torn apart by the community itself through social media,鈥� said Topher Gaylord. A former elite runner who tied for second in the inaugural UTMB in 2003, Gaylord engineered UTMB鈥檚 first title sponsorship with The North Face and has been a close supporter of the Polletis for 20 years. 鈥淪ome players are using social media to divide the community. That鈥檚 super disappointing.鈥�

To me, it felt like the aggressive online activists were winning the day. Trail running suddenly seemed polarized, infected with the intertwined social media viruses of false indignation and close-mindedness. Twice, I deep-sixed my article drafts. Friends and editors convinced me they wouldn鈥檛 be read dispassionately. Who wants to be handed a fire extinguisher, when your goal is to torch the house?

Inside UTMB鈥檚 DNA: The Race Always Moves Forward听

Well, what a difference eight months can make. We now have some perspective and, with it, some answers.

Since its earliest days, UTMB鈥檚 volunteer founding committee believed in the values of the sport. The very first brochure produced for the race鈥攁 mere sheet of paper鈥攆eatured a paragraph on values. In later years that statement became much more comprehensive, expanding to cover a wide range of topics and the race鈥檚 mission to support and protect them.

But maintaining those values in an organization that has gone from a singular race with a literal garden-shed office to a 43 global event series with a staff of more than 70 full-time employees is tricky at best. In an interview once, Michel Poletti paused, asking if I had seen a photo of a mutual friend that was making the rounds. He was climbing one of Chamonix鈥檚 famed needle-sharp aiguilles, one foot on each side of a razor sharp ridge鈥攁 perilous balancing act, big air on each side. It was his metaphor for trying to move ever up, while balancing business growth and heartfelt values.

Over the course of dozens of hours of interviews with the Polettis, I came to learn one thing: UTMB always moves forward up the ridge.听 In the process, UTMB corrects its course. It starts with a careful analysis after each edition, evaluating pain points in areas such as logistics, security, media, traffic, and others, discussing how they can be addressed.听 Historically, those course corrections haven鈥檛 been at the pace others might want鈥攅specially since the social unrest that developed during the Covid pandemic鈥攂ut the organization has a reliable pattern of steadily addressing concerns.

And so, not too many weeks after that lunch meeting, UTMB set to work. First came a heartfelt effort they kept under the radar鈥攖raveling around the U.S. to listen and learn. They spent two weeks in the U.S. in February, visiting with American athletes, race directors, journalists, consultants, and their Ironman partners. 鈥淲e need to learn from our mistakes and from this crisis,鈥� Michel said.

UTMB Steps Up and Makes Changes听

Methodically over the ensuing months, UTMB rolled out a series of changes. Some were aimed at directly addressing the controversies, others were overdue for what is, by any metric, the world鈥檚 premier ultra-trail running event.

鈥淢y hope is that the trail running community understands that we are human,鈥� Catherine had told me over the winter.

Four months ago, at the end of April, the race organization announced that Hoka would become the new title sponsor of UTMB Mont-Blanc and the entire UTMB World Series through 2028. It was a huge move because Hoka, one of the biggest running brands in the world, essentially doubled-down on its support of UTMB and trail running in general. The five-year deal brought benefits other than cash, too. Hoka has a strong history of inclusivity and growing representation among marginalized communities, an area UTMB听 has announced it intends to focus more on beginning this year. The deal also moved Dacia out of the title sponsor limelight, instead bringing a brand with a strong reputation in trail running to the fore.

Dacia was shifted to the role of a premier partner in Europe, and now plays an integral part in a new eco-focused mobility plan UTMB updated in July. Fifty of their cars can be signed out for use by over 70 staff and 2,500 volunteers, encouraging them to arrive in Chamonix using public transportation instead. The move is estimated to eliminate 200 vehicles driving into the valley. (The organization鈥檚 new mobility plan will transport an estimated 15,000 runners and supporters, eliminating the need for approximately 6,000 cars during the UTMB Mont-Blanc week. On average, a bus will run every 15 minutes between Chamonix and Courmayeur, Italy, and Chamonix and Orsi猫res, Switzerland.)

In May, UTMB announced a it had developed with input from PTRA. The organization committed to spending at least $110,000 per year, money that will be allocated to test all podium finishers and a randomized selection of the 687 elite athletes in attendance. The new policies will be implemented by the International Testing Association, an independent nonprofit that has also conducted two free informational webinars for the 1,400 UTMB Mont Blanc elite runners.

Not long after the announcement, Catherine Poletti suggested this was just a start. Speaking at TrailCon, a new conference held in Olympic Valley, California, on June 26, she said, 鈥淚t鈥檚 a first big step for us. And we鈥檒l continue to develop this policy.鈥� (The most important anti-doping protocol may still be beyond UTMB, however. 鈥淭he elephant in the room is that we need a coordinated approach to establish out-of-competition testing,鈥� Tim Tollefson, an elite U.S. runner and director of the Mammoth TrailFest in California, who spearheaded independent testing at his event in 2023. 鈥淚ndividually, we鈥檙e just lighting our money on fire.鈥�)

In mid-June, UTMB addressed a longtime issue with top runners鈥�. A chunk of the funding from the ratcheted-up Hoka sponsorship was directed to supporting the bigger prizes for the OCC, CCC and UTMB races in Chamonix鈥攁bout $300,000 this year, nearly double of 2023鈥攁s well as more prize money for the three UTMB World Series Majors. (The sequence was intentional. The organization wanted a new doping policy in place before increasing prize purses, since large cash awards are often thought to lead to a growth in doping.)

It鈥檚 a move that was long overdue鈥攖he most celebrated marquee event in any sport should reward its top athletes more than any other event鈥攂ut not possible without Hoka鈥檚 increased involvement. The proposal was shared with PTRA in advance of the announcement, and the group provided feedback that was incorporated into the final divvying up of the purse.听 The total amount spent on prize money across all UTMB races is now more than $370,000.

鈥淲e increased the prizes quite dramatically,鈥� said UTMB Group CEO Fr茅d茅ric Lenart. 鈥淚t鈥檚 very important for us to support athletes in their living.鈥�

Finally, just last week, UTMB announced a new department within the company called 鈥淪port and Sustainability.鈥� The group is headed by longtime UTMB staffer Fabrice Perrin. He was a driving force behind the creation of UTMB鈥檚 live coverage back in 2012. Heading up relations with the pro athletes will be longtime elite trail runner Julien Chorier.听 Nicolas LeGrange, UTMB鈥檚 Director of Operations, will be in charge of sustainability and DEI, Diversity, Equity Inclusion.

On the DEI front, UTMB is calling its strategy 鈥渓eave no one behind,鈥� and they promise new initiatives coming this fall so that, according to Perrin, 鈥渆very athlete feels a sense of belonging within our community,鈥� he says. 鈥淚 am committed to ensuring that we perfect symbiosis with the entire community of trail running.鈥�

UTMB has already begun to embrace adaptive athletes, something it was criticized for lacking as recently as last year. This year鈥檚 UTMB Mont Blanc races will feature a team of 12 adaptive athletes who will be participating in the MCC, OCC and UTMB races. Under the direction of adaptive athlete and team manager Boris Ghirardi, who lost his left foot and part of his left leg after a motorcycle accident in 2019, the race organization recruited the athletes from around the world to showcase how adaptability and resilience are key elements of the UTMB values.

鈥淚 proposed this program to make a concrete action around adaptive athletes and the inclusion policy, and to prove that it was possible,鈥� he said this weekend. 鈥淚f you really get everyone working on this,听 you can change the game.鈥�

Now Is a Golden鈥揵ut Delicate鈥揗oment

And with that, UTMB Mont-Blanc 2024 is underway, resuming the golden era status that Byrne raved about last August. Starting this past weekend, banners have been unfurled over Place du Triangle de l鈥橝miti茅 in the heart of Chamonix, kicking off the carefully choreographed trail running Super Bowl that is UTMB. The excitement begins on August 26 and culminates as the race for UTMB individual crowns reach a tipping point on August 31. (The golden hour of the final finishers on September 1 will be something to behold, too.)

鈥淚t鈥檚 like wrapping the Tour de France, Burning Man, and the biggest industry trade show into one giant, week-long festival,鈥� Gaylord says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 an amazing week for our sport, one of the biggest showcases we have.鈥�

The aura of Chamonix and the opportunity to run a race there is drawing as much or more interest than ever before. It is perhaps the essence of what will keep the UTMB World Series afloat into the distant future. Runners will continue to chase Running Stones at qualifying events around the world, knowing the carrot of running one of the races around the Mont Blanc massif is second to none.

Trail running is booming on a global scale, and it鈥檚 not just UTMB shouldering the burden or reaping the benefits. The Golden Trail World Series, Spartan Trail Running, Xterra Trail Running鈥攁nd even the World Trail Majors, Western States 100, and dozens of other more prominent trail races鈥攁re all trying to get a bigger piece of the pie, either by way of money or relevance.

UTMB Mont Blanc, as trail running鈥檚 most important race, is at the very beating heart of it all. And trail running is a soul sport, so when change and growth happen, it can feel threatening to all of us whose lives have been changed for the better by time spent with dirt underfoot and blue sky above. UTMB is big enough now that it鈥檚 urgently important that it make changes judiciously and preemptively.

As the world鈥檚 most significant trail race, the consequences of UTMB鈥檚 choices will ripple throughout the ecosystem. UTMB understands this.听 鈥淒o we owe something to trail running? Yes, of course we do,鈥� Michel Poletti once told me.听 That鈥檚 truer than ever now.

At TrailCon in June, Catherine Poletti summed up UTMB鈥檚 challenge. 鈥淭rail running is changing around the world. We鈥檝e seen that evolution over 20 years. We need to adapt, to find a good balance, to accept different models and ways of organizing.鈥�

Back in August 2021, I wrote an article here called, 鈥淯TMB, Don鈥檛 Break Our Hearts.鈥� It came the summer after the organization announced its investment from the Ironman Group. Change鈥� big change鈥� was everywhere. Could the race around Mont Blanc maintain its soul and passion amid talk of multinational sports marketing, we all wondered? Michel Poletti closed the interview by saying, 鈥淣ous prenons un rendez-vous dans trois ans.鈥� Simply translated: 鈥�We鈥檒l schedule an interview in three years.鈥�

Three years is now, and both UTMB and trail running鈥檚 landscape have changed dramatically, if not literally then certainly figuratively. We鈥檝e seen UTMB adjust its rudder this past year, responding to concerns. Perhaps not at the pace any individual or specific group would like, and not to the extent some would wish. But it鈥檚 happening, and for that we should all breathe a cautious sigh of relief. Because if you love trail running, you have to care about what happens at the world鈥檚 biggest trail race.

As I write this in Chamonix very early on the morning of August 26, overcast skies are parting and blue skies are in the offing. The forecast for the week ahead is for bright sun with a few clouds. It鈥檚 a workable enough metaphor for trail running鈥檚 future. But one thing has to happen for it to come true. The race that changed running needs to continue to listen to its stakeholders around the world, and engage with them as it grows and develops in the days ahead. If that happens, Byrne鈥檚 vision of the golden age of our sport just might linger on. I can hope.

The post Opinion: UTMB Is Having a Golden Moment. But It鈥檚 Delicate. appeared first on 国产吃瓜黑料 Online.

This trek has it all: three countries, endless views of Western Europe鈥檚 highest peak鈥�15,771-foot Mont Blanc鈥攆resh-baked treats at high huts you stay in along the way, and views of climbers clinging to improbable spires. While downright decadent at times, thanks to the gourmet food and drink en route, the Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB), 103 miles of hiking that circles Mont Blanc and passes through France, Italy, and Switzerland, is no pushover. It comprises more than 32,000 feet of uphill hiking and descending. It offers gorgeous stretches of warm, summer Alps weather, yet full-on big-mountain storms can still descend on trekkers.

The Beautiful Mount Blanc Region

The Mont Blanc region of the Alps is huge, encompassing 155 square miles, with 60 square miles of glaciers and eleven summits over 13,000 feet. Ten thousand years ago, nomadic tribes gathered here, living off deer and chamois on the land and fish from the rivers. In time, they began herding animals, moving them to higher pastures in the summer, creating the annual Alpine rhythm called transhumance that persists to this day. Those paths created an intertwined network of trails around the massif. In the last 60 years, local communities worked on the ancient routes, upgrading them for modern use by active travelers. In the 1960s, old huts were updated, inns sprang up in the valleys, and the TMB took on its present form.

Starting and finishing in the adventure-crazed alpine town of Chamonix, France, at the base of Mont Blanc, the TMB is perhaps the world鈥檚 most famous pedestrian loop and definitely one of its most entertaining, passing through three countries and the resulting variety of cultures. Along with the lively hut scene, Michelin-star dining options en route, and stop-dead-in-your-tracks views, you may also see the world鈥檚 best trail runners breezing past.

Getting to Know the Tour du Mont Blanc

I began hiking and trail running the Tour du Mont-Blanc 15 years ago in sections鈥攁 day here, two days there. It wasn鈥檛 until seven years ago that I did the full loop in one continuous push. It was September 1, 2017, and 2,200 fellow trail runners joined me in the 14th edition of the iconic Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc, or UTMB. Held each year at the end of August and easily the world鈥檚 most famous trail race, UTMB is one part of the reason the TMB (walking version) has become so popular.听听

I鈥檝e lived in Chamonix full-time for five years, spending five summers here before that, and founded and am part-owner of the trail-running tour company The UTMB race is intense. Far more typical is the leisurely eight-day TMB hike I took with my two brothers and a cousin last September. My relatives booked a total of 11 days for the trip, which included their arrival and departure days, a day in Chamonix to adjust to Central European Time, and a rest day in Courmayeur.

We meandered around the range, napping in alpine meadows, chatting with shepherds, and snarfing up lunches at huts and inns all along the way. We started around 8:30 each morning, right after the continental breakfasts, and dropped our bags with the hotel for the pre-arranged transport to the next destination. (Pro tip: Skipping the baggage transfer to save money is a dubious trade-off. You do not want to lug the extra weight over the high passes.) With an organized start time, we鈥檇 arrive at our next destination mid-afternoon, usually in time for a shower, a post-hike beer, and a nap before dinner. Our weather was perfect: blue skies, temperatures in the 60s, and a light breeze, day after day.

I鈥檝e hiked or run the TMB a dozen times now, and here鈥檚 my advice for beginners on how to do it right.

Tour du Mont Blanc Guide – Quick Links

How to get to the TMB | How Hard is it to Hike the TMB? | How Long Does it Take to Hike the TMB? | The Best Time of the Year to Hike the TMB | How to Book Your TMB Trip | Is the Trail Easy to Follow? | Lodging Options Along the TMB | Should I Plan My Own Trip or Go With A Guide? | Do I Have to Hike the Whole TMB Trail? | What to Pack to Hike the TMB | TMB Etiquette | The Best Piece of Advice of All |听 Resources

1) How to Get to the TMB

Nearly all TMB travelers fly in and out of Geneva, Switzerland, which is just about 90 minutes from Chamonix, the traditional start and end point of the loop. There are multiple shared shuttle services, which typically cost about 鈧�35 (about $38 as of August 2024) and should be scheduled in advance. At Run the Alps, we use Mountain Dropoffs. They鈥檙e reliable, they track your flight, and their drivers are well trained and always courteous.

2) How Hard Is It to Hike the TMB?

Most fit hikers will find the TMB to be within their abilities, especially if they opt for a luggage transport service between huts and hotels, leaving them to hike with light daypacks. But the trail is a big undertaking and can be challenging.

The longest day is usually about 20 miles, with roughly 4,500 feet of climbing and descending. Most days total around 15 miles, with between 4,000 and 5,000 feet of climbing. The highest point you鈥檒l reach is 8,323 feet, and you work naturally up to it, so altitude is generally a non-issue, though concern about it is a common misconception about the TMB.

A lot of hikers and trail runners will find the TMB to have a good bit of 鈥渧ert鈥� (vertical gain) along the route. There are almost no truly flat sections, and depending on how you plan your route, you can do up to or even more than 33,000 feet of climbing during the trip. To train beforehand, find a nearby hill, get the pack you intend to use, load it up, and head uphill. If your local terrain doesn鈥檛 lend itself to TMB training, sign up for a few months at a gym with treadmills that go up to a 20 percent incline, and start hiking, doing your best to ignore the looks of gym rats when they see your pack on your back.

Old-school hiking boots are fine but, increasingly, TMB hikers are switching to sturdy trail-running shoes, from brands like Hoka, Salomon, or Merrell. No matter what you bring, wear them in well in advance鈥攚hich means a few weeks of daily use, then at least a half dozen hikes, to make sure they are broken in and fit comfortably.

3) How Long Does It Take to Hike the TMB?

Depending on your jet-lag coping skills and your interest in rest days, plan on anywhere from a week to 12 days. The TMB breaks down nicely into village-based stops, and the most common itinerary looks something like this: Chamonix, France (add a rest day in for the day after you arrive); Les Contamines, France; Les Chapieux, France; Courmayeur, Italy (add a rest day in here); La Fouly, Switzerland; Champex-Lac, Switzerland; Trient, Switzerland; back to Chamonix (add in a rest day or two here before flying out). Bingo, that鈥檚 the loop.

4) The Best Time of Year to Hike the TMB

Be forewarned: midsummer is busy. The trail is getting popular. Even before COVID, there was a notable uptick in TMB usage, and last summer saw by far the biggest visitor numbers yet. An estimated 200,000 hikers, mountain bikers, and trail runners travel some sections of the TMB each year.

As of now, no permit is required to hike it, but you do have to book huts and hotels. The regional government has been talking with several nature reserves through which the TMB passes about implementing a permit system. Initially, at least, these permits would be both free and unlimited. The goal is to use the registration process to educate guests and track user numbers better鈥攁nd hopefully to mitigate crowds.

As a result of the surge in use, the gens du pays鈥�the local people who live and work along the TMB鈥攁re scrambling 24/7 during July and August. If you must go then, you鈥檒l need to plan well in advance to secure bookings and will pay top dollar. Many tour operators stop taking midsummer reservations for the TMB by mid-winter.

If you have a flexible schedule, I鈥檇 suggest booking during the second half of June, or after the UTMB race at the end of August, when things quiet down again.

In the shoulder seasons of June and September, bookings will be easier and refuge staff will have more time to visit with guests and perhaps even share a beer. On the front end of the shoulder season, the last two weeks of June, high passes might still be holding onto their snowfields, and you鈥檒l need to use caution if the slopes are frozen solid. Bring hiking poles with carbide tips and microspikes for traction, and always check conditions locally with tourist offices before striking off.

The September shoulder season is arguably better, thanks to snow-free passes and good odds of blue skies. Most refuges and public transportation are open and running until about mid-September. This late season on the TMB is a wonderful time, with fewer crowds and a bit more wildness. Warmer gear is a must, though, as nighttime temperatures drop to the 50s and lower, and be aware that snowstorms might shut down travel for a day.

July and August are the high season. If that鈥檚 your vacation window, booking a year ahead will help you get the hotel you want. (Pro tip: Ask your hotel to pack a bag lunch for you the night before, so you can enjoy lunch from a quiet pasture, rather than waiting to place an order with overworked hut staff.) Huts usually don鈥檛 allow picnicking at their facilities, but if you pass by before or after the lunch rush, you can always enjoy a cafe au lait with the view.

Even if it鈥檚 busy, it鈥檚 still the TMB. If you don鈥檛 mind sharing vistas with fellow travelers, the fundamentals are pretty darned spectacular. You鈥檒l need a thesaurus when texting home, because hackneyed travel adjectives like spectacular, stunning, amazing, and jaw-dropping will all sneak into your writing. For once, they won鈥檛 be overstatements.

5) How to Book Your TMB Trip

You can set up the whole circumnavigation yourself, go with a guide, or use a tour operator to book everything in advance for you. Whatever you choose, set things up as far ahead as possible. 鈥淵ou need to be planning 10 months in advance to secure space if you want to get into all the hard-to-book places,鈥� says Troy Haines, owner of Alpinehikers, a guided and self-guided hiking tour operator that has been leading trips on the TMB for two decades.

There is good news, though, for those with an open approach. 鈥淏eing flexible in your thinking really helps,鈥� says Haines. 鈥淚f you have a range of dates that work, or are happy with a dorm one night or a fourth-choice hotel, or even taking a taxi to a nearby village, then there is almost always something we can do to put together a trip.鈥�

If you鈥檙e planning your own TMB hike and working on the logistics in late winter or spring for the coming summer, you may need to get creative in at least one overnight destination and possibly several. Look for hotels and inns in adjacent villages, and schedule Taxi Besson, a service that gives hikers rides to and from trails, to meet you at a specific location and time and return you to the trek the following morning. Places that traditionally get booked out along the trail include: Les Chapieux, France, and La Fouly and Trient, Switzerland. Instead, taxis can take you to the Savoie town of Bourg St. Maurice or quiet, atmospheric villages like Beaufort or Ar锚ches. If La Fouly is full, take the Swiss Post bus to Orsieres and then Champex-Lac, skipping ahead a day. If Trient is full, look to Finhaut, Switzerland, or Vallorcine, France. Consider the switch-ups an adventure, and a chance to explore villages a bit farther afield.

6) Is the TMB Trail Easy to Follow?

Whenever you go, the TMB is one of the easiest trails in the world to follow. No matter whether you鈥檙e hiking in France, Italy, or Switzerland, the signage is clear, with distances marked. (Predictably, Switzerland wins for best and most accurate signs.) Many junctions are named, with elevations shown on the signposts. The TMB trail itself is well-worn, so even if visibility is poor, you should have no problem staying en route.

7) Lodging Options Along the TMB

There may be no multi-day trek in the world that offers such an array of overnight options. Some guests are rolling out sleeping bag liners in shared dorm space, while others are sipping pricey Burgundy wines amid the five-star, red-carpet treatment at high-end hotels in Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Champex-Lac. (See the Resources section below for my favorite hotel options along the route.)

For those looking for a sky filled with thousands of stars, camping is an option, but with the recent proliferation of tents popping up around the range, it鈥檚 increasingly frowned upon by many of the guides on the trail and staff at nearby huts. If you want to camp, follow good Leave No Trace practices and be as unobtrusive as possible. Regulations vary widely along the TMB. Camping is usually permitted outside of nature refuges after sunset and before sunrise. If you鈥檙e overnighting near a hut, drop in during the afternoon and ask permission of the hut caretaker or guardian. Commercial camping businesses exist in all of the key towns around the TMB. Because of the convenient alpine villages sprinkled around the route, however, the TMB is a great choice for anyone who wants to leave the tent and camp stove at home.

Because the TMB passes through three countries, camping regulations along the trail vary. Below is a quick overview of the regulations.

In France, camping is allowed under the following conditions:

• In the proximity of a refuge, with the permission of the guardian.
• 国产吃瓜黑料 of the Contamines nature reserve, you can pitch a tent between sunset and sunrise (7 P.M. – 9 A.M.). In the Contamines nature reserve, you must pitch your tent in the designated area near the Refuge de la Balme.

In Italy:

• Camping is not allowed under 2500m of altitude.
• In the Val Veny and Val Ferret zones, camping is only allowed in a designated campsite.

In Switzerland:

• Camping is allowed above tree level, but not within nature reserves.

8) Should I Plan My Own Trip (DIY), Self-Guide, or Go With a Guide?

A) DIY

If you鈥檙e a planner, the TMB is made for you. You鈥檒l get to cruise around on hotel websites in three countries, poring over photos of standard, superior, and deluxe rooms.

Stephanie Lefferts, the tour manager at my company, Run the Alps, who works with more than fifty hotels, has three tips for DIYers:

• Book directly through a hotel鈥檚 website, if possible. You鈥檒l often get a better rate and terms, and more money goes to the hotels, which are often family run.
• When in doubt, go for the half-board option, which includes dinner. As Lefferts points out, 鈥淚t’s really nice to walk downstairs for dinner after a long day on the trail and not have to wander the town searching for somewhere to eat.鈥�
• You guessed it: 鈥淏ook early!鈥�

Over the years, a number of planning sites have emerged for the DIYer鈥搒ee our suggestions below and grab a copy of the venerable TMB bible, by Kev Reynolds. The most recent edition was released in 2020. Be sure to get the IGN Tour du Mont-Blanc map as well.

B) Find an Outfitter Who Sets Up Self-Guided Trips

This means that a company will book everything for you in advance so that all you have to do is show up and hike. Most TMB outfitters know the better inns and hotels along the route. And if you need to spend a night off the trail, they鈥檒l schedule taxi transport for you. You鈥檒l also get route descriptions for each day along with supporting materials that can save hassle and confusion. Most companies will also arrange for transport to and from the airport and baggage transfer during your hiking days.

C) Go With a Guide

In the Alps, so-called 鈥渕iddle mountain鈥� guides (meaning hiking rather than climbing guides) are a common sight, leading hikers and trail runners along paths throughout the region. The English designation is called IML, for International Mountain Leader. In French, it鈥檚 accompagnateur for a male guide and accompagnatrice for a woman. Guides in the Alps go through a rigorous training and testing process, and their knowledge runs deep on topics from mountain safety to flora and fauna to local customs and more. The additional cost of going on a guided trip can be well worth it, particularly if you鈥檙e busy and would like to just show up and follow a competent and friendly leader.

If you鈥檙e going on a guided trip, be sure to confirm that your company uses only licensed guides. Mountain police, Europe鈥檚 equivalent of a forest ranger toting a police badge, often check a guide鈥檚 paperwork, and more than one hapless group has had its TMB trip stalled by the presence of non-licensed guides.

If you use a commercial company for either a guided or self-guided tour, remember that not all companies offer the same tier of service. The cost difference can be thousands of dollars, and your overnight accommodations might range from a stuffy dorm room to a 600-thread-count king-sized bed with a mountain-view terrace. Read the fine print carefully to see what costs are covered, and if items like airport shuttles and in-country transport are included on your way back.

9) Do I Have to Hike the Whole TMB?

The TMB is well set up for hikers with limited time. Transportation around the region is relatively straightforward. There are multiple buses each day between Chamonix and Courmayeur through the Mont Blanc tunnel, and France鈥檚 SNCF passenger trains coordinate with Switzerland鈥檚 SBB rail system, which in turn dovetails with the country鈥檚 Postbus system. All of which means, getting around is easy. If you鈥檙e short on time, try some day hikes. These are my places to stay for dramatic day hikes around the region: Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Champex.

10) What to Pack For Your TMB Hike

Most summer days on the TMB are luxurious, with zephyrs rustling the pastures, blue skies, and great hiking temperatures. But any given day can be downright brutal. Hope for the best, but be ready for the worst. Here鈥檚 a typical packing list:听

• Warm and waterproof clothing for cold days, including a waterproof jacket and pants, a thermal top, and hat and gloves.
• Dry bags or a waterproof cover for your pack.
• Hiking boots or sturdy trail running shoes. Go for at least a few long hikes beforehand to make sure they are a good fit.
• Hiking or trail-running poles are a common sight on the TMB, and for good reason. The slight shifting of weight from legs to arms will reduce fatigue later in the day, and the third point of contact will make steep terrain safer.
• Sunglasses and sunscreen.
• A large water bottle or hydration pack that can hold at least two liters.
• First-aid kit including a mix of bandages and blister aids.
• About 200 euros, even though many of the mountain stops and most mountain refuges accept cards.
• A cell phone with an international plan. It鈥檚 a good idea to store the emergency numbers in your contacts. In France and Italy, the number is 112. In Switzerland, it鈥檚 114. Calls to emergency numbers are free. Rescue fees vary from free to pricey throughout the Alps. Here鈥檚 on the details. (TLDR? Get a membership in the Swiss nonprofit REGA, make sure your health insurance is up-to-date, and buy travel insurance from a reputable company, like IMG.)
• Bring your ATM card鈥搕here are ATMs at every stop except Les Chapieux and Trient. Just call your bank first to make sure the card is authorized for France, Italy, and Switzerland. Though Switzerland uses the Swiss Franc, euros are generally accepted around the loop.
• If you鈥檙e staying at mountain huts, most require a sleeping bag liner, which you鈥檒l use in combination with wool hut blankets that won鈥檛 see a good washing until the close of the season. You can buy cotton, which has more bulk, or silk, which costs more but stuffs into about the size of a rolled washcloth.
• While most huts provide Crocs or flip-flops for indoor use, it鈥檚 not a bad idea to bring your own that are actually comfortably sized to you instead of whatever is in the hut shoe cubby.
• Ear plugs if you鈥檙e sharing overnight accommodations.

11) Learn the TMB Etiquette

As with many long-distance paths, there are rules to the road. On the TMB, they are well-established, thanks to the long history of the route.

At refuges:

• Shoes and poles in the boot room only.
• In shared rooms, try to be quiet at night, and don鈥檛 turn the light on if someone is sleeping. Turn cell phones off or to Airplane Mode.
• Use an indoor voice. (Yes, it really is true: Americans tend to be among the loudest.)
• A small tip is appreciated鈥損erhaps a euro for a snack and cafe au lait, a few euros for a meal.

On the trail:

• Remember that there might be bikers, runners, or faster walkers who want to get past, so be ready to step aside.
• Share a 鈥淏onjour鈥� when passing fellow hikers.
• Please, don鈥檛 play music out loud. Grab the earbuds.
• Evidence is starting to mount that swimming in lakes has a negative impact on their ecosystems. Please minimize or avoid it, especially if you鈥檙e wearing sunscreen.

12) My Top TMB Advice: Treat Yourself!

The TMB has to be the hiking path with some of the tastiest aid stations en route. While you鈥檒l burn over 4,000 calories a day, if you鈥檙e not adding it all back, well, you鈥檙e missing out.

This is ten years of in-depth culinary research in a handful of short paragraphs, but rest assured, the pleasure was all mine.

On one of my first TMBs, circling the Mont Blanc massif in four days as part of a trail-running mini-vacation, our group kept a literally running tally of the number of tartes aux myrtilles (blueberry tarts), pain au chocolates, and cafe au laits we had. We quickly lost track, though.

My brothers, cousin, and I repeated a version of this game last fall. In fact, counting tartes and other treats is a classic TMB tradition. Thanks to those baked mountain goodies and endless big views, the miles pass quickly. Before you know it you鈥檒l be back on the steps of the centuries-old St. Michel Church in Chamonix, celebrating with beers from Big Mountain Brewery and looking forward to a fromage-filled celebratory dinner at La Caleche.

Here are some of my favorite stops en route.

• Refuge Plan de l鈥橝iguille: While not on the TMB, this high hut above Chamonix is well worth a visit. So, book a jet-lag recovery day in Chamonix, and head here for a TMB warm-up. Claude and his staff make what is widely considered the best tarts in the Chamonix valley, fresh each morning. The typical spread is wild blueberry, strawberry, lemon, and raspberry. (Take in the Midi tram, the world鈥檚 second-longest, on the same day.)
• Chalet Miage: Stop for lunch at this rustic mountain farm before the French village of Les Contamines and order anything on the menu. Really. It鈥檚 that simple.
• Alpage Ville de Glacier: If you鈥檙e not taking Col des Fours, look for this farm just outside the hamlet of Chapieux and stock up on local Beaufort and S茅rac cheese directly from the farmer.
• Refugio Elizabetta: Time your wanderings to stop in for their traditional Italian lunches like hearty bowls of polenta, and all for a good price.
• Courmayeur, Italy: This TMB stopover town has a wide array of great restaurants, so schedule a rest day here. Get a gelato or an ice cream at the Gelateria in the center of town, and sneak down a side alley for focaccia at Pan per Focaccia. Pro tip: ask your hotel to book a taxi to the QC Terme roman spas at Pr茅-Saint-Didier. If you end up wanting more, the same company has a new facility waiting to ease the end-of-trip aches and pains in Chamonix.
• Alpage de Bovine: Switzerland is all about comfort food, and the grated potato and cheese Rost茂 at this high Swiss farm stop will persuade you that all is well with the world. Save room for an apricot or blueberry tart.
• Refuge Col de Balme: Wrap your hands around a thick hot chocolate as you look down to Chamonix and eye the last ten miles of your loop around Mont Blanc.

Sant茅 et 脿 bient么t!

13) Important Resources for the Tour Du Mont Blanc

Helpful Sites for DIY Planners

is a one-stop online planning site, with links to key huts and other services along the way.

offers paid support for DIYers who want a hand building their own trips.

: Taxi Besson is the go-to company to shuttle your bags around the TMB. They work with most major hotels in the region. Drop your bag by in the morning after breakfast, and it will be waiting for you at your next hotel that evening. (In my outfit鈥檚 ten years of using them, they鈥檝e never once failed us.) Pro tip: Follow the weight-limit guidelines, ask at the hotel desk exactly where to leave your bag, and don鈥檛 tie anything to the outside.

transfers between Geneva and the Chamonix valley.

: With nearly 37,000 members, this Facebook group is lively, filled with useful information. Ignore the know-it-alls, and you鈥檒l find tons of good intel.

If you鈥檙e going on your own, Emily Geldard, a longtime resident and the Run the Alps assistant manager, has created a handy summary of options to shorten many of the days, in the event of inclement weather or injury. 鈥溾€� offers information on bail-out options, plus a list of ways to extend each day if yesterday鈥檚 pastries have you energized for bonus terrain.

Outfitter Recommendations for Guided and Self-Guided Hiking

, , and are highly regarded tour operators who offer both guided and self-guided trips on the TMB.

Outfitter Recommendations for Guided and Self-Guided Running

is an Alps-based company with U.S. roots. (The author is the founder and part owner.) Run the Wild and Tracks and Trails are two other good options.

If You Need a Doctor

If you have an emergency, use the emergency numbers or ask your accommodation host to call a local doctor. Les Contamines, Courmayeur, and 础谤驳别苍迟颈猫谤别 have pharmacies.

Apps

A handful of apps make the TMB easier to navigate, including which also contains weather data. is often used for weather.

(Gaia is owned by 国产吃瓜黑料 Inc., the company that owns 国产吃瓜黑料.)

Learn Some of the Local Language

French / Italian:

• Hello = Bonjour / Ciao
• Thank you = Merci / Grazie
• Breakfast = Petit Dejeuner / Colazione
• How much is it? = 脟a co没te combien? / Quanto costa?
• Do you speak English? = Est ce que vous parlez anglais? / Parla inglese?
• Where are the toilets? = O霉 sont les toilettes? / Dove e鈥� il bagno?
• This way? = Par ici? / Da questa parte?
• It hurts here = 脟a me fait mal ici / Sono ferito qui
• Mountain hut = refuge de montagne / rifugio di montagna
• I need help = J鈥檃i besoin d鈥檃ide / Ho bisogno di aiuto听

Great Side Trails to Explore

One of the best features of the TMB is that there are plenty of side trails to hike along the way. You can truly do your own hike, mixing the standard route with wilder variants, or hopping a local bus to skip sections. Hiking what we call a variant trail can be a great way to get away from crowds and find solitude. Here are a few of my favorites.

• France: Col de Fours: from Les Contamines to the must-see rustic lodge of Les Mottets, this is a direct variant that detours around Les Chapieux. It is a mere 350 feet of additional climbing鈥搕hough much more technical than the norm鈥揳nd a bit more than a mile shorter. It includes one of the highest points on the TMB (which should be avoided in bad weather). Best of all, there鈥檚 a high likelihood of seeing ibex.
• Italy: Val de Sapin: From Courmayeur to Bonatti Refugio, this adds an additional 1,300 feet of climbing and about a mile of distance. It is a wild and quiet valley, and you are likely to see ibex.
• Italy into Switzerland: Petit Col Ferret: Next to the Grand Col Ferret, this is an alternate route to La Fouly. It is the same distance and elevation, but the rocky descent is more technical. The trail is much quieter than the traditional route.
• Switzerland: Fen锚tre d鈥橝rpette: from Champex to Trient, this variant adds about 1,300 feet of elevation, and is a bit less distance, but it is a lot more technical and time-consuming. Because of the high altitude and slippery rock, it should be avoided in bad weather and certainly during the early season. The route鈥檚 steep and icy snowfields linger into early summer and have led to a fatal slide every few years. The scenery is wild and other-worldly, and the trail is usually quiet.
• Switzerland into France: Les Tseppes: From Trient to 础谤驳别苍迟颈猫谤别, France, this variant adds a few hundred feet of elevation and about a mile of distance. The start is steep and daunting, but worth the challenge. The trail is quiet, and you are treated to wide-ranging views of the Vallorcine valley and Mont Blanc.

The Author’s Lodging Recommendations Along the TMB

Chamonix

• High End: If you want modern and plenty of amenities, Heliopic is your go-to. Want authentic French? Head to the Hameau Albert 1er.
• Middle: Le Refuge des Aiglons is modern, with a nice spa, pool, and outdoor seating. For something more rustic, head down the street to Hotel Oustalet, which features a large yard that鈥檚 somehow quiet, despite its central location.
• Rustic: La Boerne is located out of town in the tiny collection of chalets known as Tr茅-le-champ. It鈥檚 a ten-minute walk to the local train, which is 20 minutes from Chamonix. There鈥檚 also bus service from 础谤驳别苍迟颈猫谤别, a 15-minute walk away.

Les Contamines

• High End: H么tel La Chemenaz. Spacious private rooms and suites, with an outdoor swimming pool and spa.
• Middle: Gai Soleil. Family-run by passionate staff, this converted farm has been hosting tourists since the 1920s. The private rooms have a cozy, alpine feel.
• Rustic: Chalet Refuge de Nant Borrants. Set on the TMB trail, a little outside of Les Contamines, this refuge is secluded and traditional. The dormitories are clean, with just six to nine people in each room.

Les Chapieux

• High End: Taxi to Bourg St-Maurice and stay at Hotel L’Autantic or Hotel Base Camp Lodge des Arcs.
• Middle: Chambres du Soleil. Family-run, with excellent food cooked by the husband. There are woodburners in the dining rooms, and blankets in the bedrooms made from local wool.
• Rustic: Refuge Les Mottets. The food is hearty mountain style using local cheeses, and the dining room is decorated with historic farming equipment. A refuge staffer often plays music at dinner time on the player piano in the dining room.

Courmayeur

• High End: Grand Hotel Courmayeur. Modern and stylish rooms, with an indoor pool and spa.
• Middle: Bouton D鈥橭r. Traditional, alpine decor, and a fantastic breakfast buffet that is all homemade. The fruits in the breakfast tarts are grown in the kitchen garden.
• Rustic: Cabane du Combal. A secluded location in the mountains, on the TMB but outside of Courmayeur.

La Fouly:

• High End: Take a taxi to Verbier and stay at La Cord茅e des Alpes. Modern rooms with alpine decoration.
• Middle: L鈥橦么tel Edelweiss. Clean, modern rooms that have been recently renovated.
• Rustic: G卯te Alpage de La Peule. This is an active dairy where you can buy the products, and see how different cheeses are made.

Champex:

• High End: H么tel Alpina. A husband-and-wife partnership with Michelin-standard food cooked by the husband. The building is small and has a private, family feel.
• Middle: H么tel Splendide. A historic and grand hotel built in the 1930s. Think high ceilings, stained-glass windows, and creaky wooden floorboards.
• Rustic: Relais d’Arpette. A traditional mountain auberge on a variant taking you a 20-minute walk off the TMB, on the F锚netre d’Arpette, in a secluded valley outside of Champex. Fantastic views.

Trient

• High End: Take a taxi to 础谤驳别苍迟颈猫谤别 and stay at the H么tel Les Grands Montets. Access to a spa and indoor swimming pool. The rooms are cozy and comfortable with alpine deco.
• Middle: La Grande Ourse. Clean, modern rooms and friendly staff.
• Rustic: Refuge Le Peuty. Excellent food served in a yurt with homemade, artsy decorations.

础谤驳别苍迟颈猫谤别

• High End: H么tel Les Grands Montets. Access to a spa and indoor swimming pool. The rooms are cozy and comfortable with alpine deco.
• Middle: With an old standby, the H么tel de la Couronne, newly sold and under renovation until at least December 2023, middle-of-the-road accommodations are thin in Argenti茅re. A good alternative is to take public transport or a train to Chamonix or Vallorine, and double up your nights in one of your last hotels.
• Rustic: La Boerne. Another traditional auberge that is right on the TMB trail. It is in a quiet, secluded spot with a beautiful terrace. The building is full of character, with wooden beams and bunkbeds.

If You Get Shut Out of the TMB This Year

Troy Haines of Alpinehikers likes to point clients toward other, quieter destinations in the Alps, such as the Haute Route between Chamonix, France, and Zermatt, Switzerland; Switzerland鈥檚 Bernese Oberland; or Italy鈥檚 Dolomites. 鈥淎ll of them, TMB included, are simply stunning,鈥� Haines says. 鈥淵ou really can’t go wrong.鈥�

How to Be a Conscientious Traveler

While the are not specifically called out along the TMB, they are excellent guidelines, particularly as the TMB or any other place becomes busier. Learning a few phrases of the local language is always a nice icebreaker and shows respect, and please be patient with busy hut and innkeepers. When passing through the huts, follow the simple protocol of removing and storing boots and poles. Protocols are often posted right inside the doors.

Doug Mayer is the founder of the trail-running tour company . He lives in Montroc, France, 100 yards from the TMB, where he often trail runs with his labradoodle, Izzy. His new book is The Race That Changed Running: The Inside Story of the UTMB.

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