
(Photo: Adam Pawlikiewicz Mesa)
The journey that Zelzin Aketzalli is on could take 50 years鈥攐r even longer鈥攂ut she鈥檚 not daunted. In 2019, she became the first Mexican to complete hiking鈥檚 Triple Crown (the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide Trails), and the 31-year-old immediately dreamed up an even more ambitious project: developing the first national trail system in her home country. The inaugural installment is a prospective 1,300-mile trail across Baja California, which Aketzalli has mapped out across a trailless expanse of mountains, desert, canyons, and beach.
Aketzalli says helped her discover her true passion for long-distance trekking. Though she was already an accomplished athlete when she logged her first mile on the PCT, she had spent more time on a bike than on her feet.
Aketzalli grew up in Iztapalapa in Mexico City, the most densely populated neighborhood in one of the world鈥檚 most densely populated cities. From the outside, it might not seem like an ideal setting for someone who loved the outdoors, but Aketzalli鈥檚 father, a multisport athlete who had been a respected alpinist in the 1980s, trained her in several sports. Some of her earliest memories are of her father waking her at 5 a.m. to go running before he took her and her brother to school on his bike.
As a kid, Aketzalli was drawn to skateboarding, and sought her first job at the age of 11 in a tianguis, one of Mexico City鈥檚 open-air markets, to pay for skate shoes and save up money for college. She took swimming lessons, and in high school, she joined the rowing team. But her eyes were always pulled toward the mountains in the distance, the peaks of volcanoes Popocat茅petl and Iztacc铆huatl practically calling her name.
It wasn鈥檛 long before she took up mountain biking and began setting the kinds of ambitious goals that would come to define her adventuring career. She competed in a national mountain biking competition after training alone on the trails.
Aketzalli was a phenom on the bike, but she soon became aware of its limits. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e riding, you鈥檝e got to stick to where the bike can go,鈥 she says. 鈥淚鈥檇 pass all these paths that drew my attention. I always had the curiosity to go beyond, and on the bike, I couldn鈥檛 do it.鈥
Aketzalli realized that while she loved cycling, it wasn鈥檛 her passion. 鈥淚 didn鈥檛 see myself doing this day after day,鈥 she says. She graduated with a degree from the Instituto Polit茅cnico Nacional, Mexico鈥檚 most prestigious engineering school. But that, she says, was just a strategic goal: 鈥淚 hadn鈥檛 found my calling.鈥
Her calling wasn鈥檛 far away, and she鈥檇 discover it thanks to two unexpected people: cyclists from the United States who鈥檇 ridden from California to Mexico City. 鈥淚 took them out to see the city. I wanted to show them the mountains, and maybe I said something about wanting to go deeper, beyond where I could reach with my bike,鈥 she recalls. 鈥淎nd they said, 鈥楧id you know there鈥檚 a trail that crosses the whole United States?鈥欌
The encounter lit a spark in her. She鈥檇 already seen the movie Wild, based on Cheryl Strayed鈥檚 memoir by the same name, but hadn鈥檛 realized the scale of the trail it depicted. She went back to watch the film again. This time, she paid attention to the trail, its signage, the distances, and its challenges. It was November 2016. By April 2017, she was on the PCT.
Aketzalli trained in the months leading up to her first thru-hike, but her training faced lots of obstacles. She had never experienced snow before, so to prepare, she began hiking 17,159-foot Iztacc铆huatl, eager to learn how to use an ice axe and crampons. But she never got the chance: It was March, and conditions were dry. While summiting Iztacc铆huatl, she also discovered she was afraid of heights. And then, she realized she had another fear to confront.
鈥淚 wasn鈥檛 afraid of getting lost on the Pacific Crest Trail,鈥 she says, 鈥渂ut I was afraid I wouldn鈥檛 know how to ask for help if I needed it.鈥 At the time, she didn鈥檛 speak English beyond a few words.
Ultimately, none of those fears stopped her: 鈥淚 learned English while hiking,鈥 she says, thanks to a combination of Google Translate, hand gestures, and a series of notebooks, where other hikers drew maps and images of landmarks for her.
The PCT鈥攈er first thru-hike鈥攚as transformative, and by the time she finished the Sierra, she knew she had found her calling. Along the way, Aketzalli had heard hikers talk about the Triple Crown, and she decided to make it her next goal. Between 1994 and the end of 2024, only 775 hikers achieved Triple Crown status. Aketzalli soon became one of them, . She finished the last of the 7,910 cumulative miles in September 2019.

By the time she reached the AT, Aketzalli was already contemplating another project: building a national trail system in Mexico. When she talked to people in Mexico, 鈥淚 could see they were as amazed as I had been that trail systems existed 鈥 and I felt there was a need to have that in Mexico,鈥 she says. 鈥淚 just had to figure out where and how.鈥
As she hiked, Aketzalli thought back to an earlier trip she鈥檇 taken to the Mexican state of San Luis Potos铆 when she was 18 years old.
鈥淚 saw this mountain that really called my attention and I wanted to go there,鈥 she says. But upon arriving, she learned that she鈥檇 have to pay someone from the community to guide her. 鈥淚 was self-confident and I was a student, so I didn鈥檛 have money, so I said, 鈥業 can go on my own.鈥欌 The community was clear: no guide, no hike. At first, it frustrated her, but the experience led to a life-changing conversation that鈥檚 shaping the way she thinks about the national trail system she鈥檚 now designing.
鈥淭he man told me, 鈥楳y kids left here for the city because they didn鈥檛 like the country 鈥 They don鈥檛 want anything to do with this place because there鈥檚 nothing here,鈥欌 Aketzalli recalls. 鈥溾楤ut this is my heritage, it鈥檚 my land.鈥欌 He explained to Aketzalli that most people don鈥檛 want to leave their communities, but they don鈥檛 have a way to support themselves. She suddenly understood the need for paid guides leading visitors like her.
鈥淚 understood that it was important to create income in this community,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ecause I鈥檓 from a poor background, that stayed in my mind.鈥
In 2020, as Aketzalli was mapping out the route for the first trail in what she envisions as a national system, that experience kept coming back to her. She wants to be sure that the trails she designs benefit everyone, especially Mexicans and Latin Americans, particularly 鈥渢he ones who can鈥檛 come to the U.S. to do trails.鈥 But the other main goal is to ensure that the trail supports local communities, so that rural residents鈥攅specially those that are Indigenous鈥攄on鈥檛 have to leave their land.
This month, Aketzalli will begin formally scouting the new trail. She says that it could be decades before the route is complete.
鈥淭here鈥檚 nothing right now where this trail will be,鈥 says Aketzalli. The trail will cross 1,300 miles of terrain, featuring ocean, mountain, and desert landscapes, and it will run from the Mexico-U.S. border in Baja California Norte all the way to the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula. 鈥淚t鈥檚 all wild. It鈥檚 bush-walking,鈥 she says. 鈥淲e are starting from zero, from nothing. It鈥檚 a long process.鈥
If designing and building a trail is a massive undertaking in any country, it is a project that faces unique challenges in Mexico. For one, Aketzalli notes, thru-hiking as a concept is not part of the country鈥檚 collective consciousness, and importing an idea and a term that originated in the U.S. is fraught, particularly in this political moment.
Furthermore, Aketzalli wants to ensure that visiting hikers treat communities along the trail with the utmost respect.
鈥淭hese people have lived here for generations,鈥 she says. 鈥淭hey have so much culture, and we want the route to highlight their culture, but always with the idea that we [hikers] are there to learn from them, not we鈥檙e there to teach them something. This is a key part of the trail鈥攖o learn about the history of Mexico and to learn from native communities.鈥
In addition to cultural immersion, Aketzalli鈥檚 trail will feature what every thru-hiker lives for: physical challenges and access to nature.
鈥淲hen one talks about Baja, they think of the beach,鈥 she says. 鈥淏ut Baja is so much more than that. It has It has snow-capped mountains. It has canyons. It has desert 鈥 It has so much nature and animal life that exists nowhere else.鈥
So far, in her initial scouting expeditions, Aketzalli has garnered support from communities where the proposed trail will pass through. It鈥檚 a route she mapped out during the pandemic and one she intends to walk in full this fall. She understands that, at the end of the day, it will inevitably look much different than her vision. For one, she says, communities may change their minds about whether and how they want to be involved, and she will always respect their wishes. For another, there are the usual obstacles associated with trail-building anywhere in the world: permits, land use rights, logistics, money.
But for now, Aketzalli says, this project is all about putting one foot in front of the other and overcoming obstacles as they appear, just as she did on the Triple Crown. Her goal this fall is to prove that building Mexico鈥檚 first national trail鈥攈owever far in the future it may be鈥攊s within reach.
鈥淪o many people say it鈥檚 impossible,鈥 she says. 鈥淲e have to demonstrate that it is possible. I want to see more Mexicans thru-hiking. I believe wholly that a trail changes lives. I want to change the history of Mexico.鈥