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Nabongo exploring Kazakhstan
Nabongo exploring Kazakhstan (Photo: Elton Anderson)

Jessica Nabongo’s Lessons from Visiting Every Country

On October 6, Nabongo became the first documented black woman and first Ugandan to travel to every sovereign nation. Here鈥檚 what she learned along the way.

Published: 
Nabongo exploring Kazakhstan
(Photo: Elton Anderson)

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When her Kenya Airways flight touched down on Mah茅 Island in the Seychelles on October 6, Jessica Nabongo said it finally hit her.

鈥淚鈥檓 done,鈥 said the 35-year-old. 鈥淚鈥檝e been to every country in the world.鈥

Surrounded by her family and closest friends, Nabongo was ebullient and humble. She began livestreaming to her 130,000 .听People from six continents tuned in to watch, from the Democratic Republic of Congo to Finland.

Nabongo, who grew up in Detroit, Michigan,听and is the daughter of Ugandan immigrants,听estimates that she had already been to 105 countries when she publicly set her goal in April 2018. A dual Ugandan-American citizen, she spent time in East Africa as a child and teen, visiting her parents鈥 families. She moved abroad to teach English in Japan in her early twenties听and then got a master鈥檚 degree in international development from the London School of Economics at the age of 26. She moved to Benin, in West Africa, to work for an NGO, then landed a job in Italy as a resource-mobilization consultant for the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.

There are 193 UN听member countries, in addition to the Vatican and Palestine, which are nonmember states. That left 90听places for Nabongo to visit when she set her goal.听Over the past two years, she was on the road about three weeks a month, departing from Detroit. She supported herself through her travel business鈥攁 tour operator called Jet Black鈥攁s well as funding from听a Kickstarter campaign and help from select tourism boards for on-the-ground expenses and hotels that comped stays.

I first met Nabongo at a coffee shop in New York City鈥檚 East Village in August. She arrived wearing a turquoise and blue shirt from Studio 189, a Ghanian brand. Adorned with rings from Kenya and bracelets from Botswana, she called herself a 鈥渨alking passport.鈥 Fresh off a weekend at the听Afropunk Festival in Brooklyn, she had a few days in New York before heading back to Detroit for a week of rest.

In the previous听three weeks, she had been to Palau, South Korea, Mongolia, India, Bhutan, Oman, and Pakistan. She had four countries left: Venezuela, Algeria, Syria, and the Seychelles. Nabongo听kept听track of the countries she听visited on an app called听,听which notes each place on a list and a map. She鈥檇听filled upthree passports in the past two and a half years听with stamps from each country. Additionally, she听posted photographic evidence of every country on her .

Even as a young child, Nabongo wanted to visit every country in the world. But it wasn鈥檛 until she read about Cassie De Pecol鈥檚 for the Guinness World Records鈥 fastest visit to all sovereign nations that she learned about country counters and came up with her own goal. A small but avid group of worldwide travelers, the country-counting community is tight-knit and shares information. Nabongo estimates that there are about 150 people who have been to every country. They connect in the Facebook group .

鈥淚 am trying to change the narrative about black people in the travel space,鈥 said Nabongo. 鈥淲hen I am traveling in Delta One or domestically flying first class, people are like, 鈥極h, are you an employee?鈥 I am like, 鈥楴o, but I am Diamond,鈥欌 referring to Delta Airlines鈥 top tier of frequent fliers.

鈥淪ome people have been critical and saying, 鈥極h you鈥檙e doing it too fast,鈥欌 said Nabongo. 鈥淚鈥檝e been traveling my whole life. I almost look at this as taste testing.鈥

Nabongo celebrating her last country, the Seychelles, with friends and family
Nabongo celebrating her last country, the Seychelles, with friends and family (Christa Kimble)

Nabongo听averaged around four days in each of the last 50 countries she visited. While that might sound like breakneck speed, compared to other country counters who tag some countries in a day, it is downright slow. While Nabongo isn鈥檛 averse to solo travel, she journeyed with many longtime friends throughout.

In the country-counting community, is the de facto gold standard for verification. The organization听has 5,000 members and verifies country visits by asking for proof of a听random 20 places.听Nabongo鈥檚 efforts have been confirmed by it. (Other groups, like the Travelers鈥 Century Club, mainly rely on the honor system.)

鈥淎 lot of people ask me which countries are safe for black people to travel,鈥 Nabongo recently wrote on an Instagram post from the Seychelles. 鈥淭his question typically comes from black Americans. The U.S. has perfected racism in a way that I鈥檝e not seen in other countries, so I would urge you to travel WHEREVER you want to, no matter who you are and what you look like. I did it! And just because you hear one or two negative stories from someone doesn鈥檛 mean you should write a country off of your bucket list. We all will have different experiences and you shouldn鈥檛 allow your race to hinder you.鈥

As the celebrations in the Seychelles continued, Nabongo shared some of what she learned along the way to our reporter.

Getting in to North Korea and Syria

North Korea and Syria are tough countries for Americans to enter. While North Korea welcomes Americans, the U.S. government bans its citizens from visiting. This is when Nabongo鈥檚 Ugandan passport came in handy.

鈥淣orth Korea doesn鈥檛 care if an American comes,鈥 said Nabongo. 鈥淭hey knew I was an American, because my Ugandan passport shows that I was born in the United States, and because when I was exiting and going to China, I entered China with my U.S. passport, so they had to have both of my passports.鈥

While in North Korea, Nabongo was astounded by some of the messages she received from her American fan base. She attended the Mass Games, an annual synchronized-gymnastics and dance festival featuring 100,000 performers. After posting some photos of the event on Instagram, some of her followers commentedthat she shouldn鈥檛 have visited the country at all. While Nabongo tries to remain apolitical about her journey, which at times causes issues with her followers, she was shocked by how many Americans were upset. After her trip, Nabongo told Nomad Mania: 鈥淚 spent six days in North Korea, and aside from some quirky things, I thought it was surprisingly normal. We saw couples sitting in the park, we chatted with some college students, saw people drinking in a local bar, kids on school field trips, and people going to work on the subway. We never really see pictures or 鈥榥ormal鈥 life in North Korea, so this was very surprising.鈥

Meanwhile, Syria was a holy grail for Nabongo. Although now relatively safe in certain government-controlled areas, the country has restricted access for Americans. (One was recently released from detainment听after entering.)

Nabongo applied for a visa using her Ugandan passport and was denied. She tried again in Pakistan using her Ugandan passport, but her contact at the Syrian embassy in Pakistan wrote down that she was a journalist. She was told that her visa request would take a long time.

In the end, in September, Nabongo visited the occupied Golan Heights鈥攚hich is recognized as Syria by the Guinness Book of World Records鈥攙ia Israel.

How to Stay听Organized

Calling herself the visa whisperer, Nabongo admits that without her hyperorganizational skills, her accomplishment wouldn鈥檛 have been possible. She used Google Docs and Google Sheets to list her remaining countries by continent, so that she could organize flights based on regions.

One tool that Nabongo recommends for travelers is . It lists all nonstop flights into every airport in the world. 鈥淵ou can get to Paris from anywhere,鈥 said Nabongo. 鈥淏ut when you鈥檙e going to Tuvalu?鈥

To acquire visa information, Nabongo recommends . The website offers an overview of visa requirements for every country based on nationality. As a dual citizen, Nabongo found it particularly beneficial, because it allowed her to compare access to a country for both her passports, noting that knowing geopolitical situations also helps when it comes to getting access to countries.

鈥淚 closed the tab today for Passport Index, and I got a little bit sad,鈥 Nabongo told me in August. 鈥淭hat tab has been open on my browser for two years.鈥

She tried to travel on her Ugandan passport whenever possible to save money on visas鈥攆or example, for an American going to Nigeria, the visa is $160, but for Ugandans it鈥檚 just $2鈥攁nd to bring awareness to the idea of Africans as tourists. 鈥淚 want people to see a Ugandan passport literally just coming for tourism and leaving,鈥 she said. Nabongo visited 42 countries on her Ugandan passport, saving an estimated $1,200.

The Top 国产吃瓜黑料 Countries

Nabongo found two unexpected adventure destinations: Jordan and Namibia. Nabongo was impressed with Jordan鈥檚 efforts to ramp up its听outdoor tourism, from camping in the beautiful desert escape of Wadi Rum听to exploring Aqaba, a port city on the Red Sea.

Describing Namibia as 鈥減henomenal,鈥 Nabongo saw the Milky Way for the first time while staying in the Namib Desert at Sossusvlei, thanks to the miniscule amount of light pollution. She also climbed the huge nearby sand dunes.

Some of her other favorite nature experiences included swimming with humpback whales in Tonga, the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park in Grenada, whale-watching in the Arctic Circle, surfing in Peru, and hanging out in the Devil鈥檚 Pool at Victoria Falls in Zambia.

Nabongo climbing Namibia鈥檚 sand dunes
Nabongo climbing Namibia鈥檚 sand dunes (Wes Walker)

Getting Around

Nabongo tried听to maximize her experiences by how she physically traversed听countries, from train rides in Uzbekistan and Austria to helicopter rides in Senegal and South Africa.

One of Nabongo鈥檚 favorite ways to explore is with a hired driver and guide. Although she鈥檚 a proponent of local group tours鈥攕he estimates she鈥檚 been on about 40 in her time as a globe-trotter鈥攕he says that having a private driver allows for independence. On a recent trip to the country of Georgia, the tourism board provided her with a driver and a guide. After a wine tasting, they decided on a whim to stop and buy locally made bread at a local Georgian鈥檚 home.

鈥淭he way they make the bread was similar to how I saw it made in Yemen,鈥 recounted Nabongo.听She showed the Georgian woman a video of a man making bread in Yemen.

The Most Challenging Experience

Most of the trouble Nabongo听ran into happened with immigration officers, like in Pakistan in September, where she was searched for drugs as she was trying to leave the country. Although she鈥檚 careful to note that she loved her visit to Pakistan, describing it as 鈥減leasant and fun,鈥 the immigration experience at the end left her traumatized. 鈥淚 have more racist issues occur with immigration than with people [in the countries] themselves,鈥 she says.

The Easiest Place to Be a Woman Traveler

Throughout her travels, Nabongo said that she found Muslim countries the easiest to be a woman tourist. 鈥淚 felt very comfortable as a woman in Pakistan as compared to India,鈥 Nabongo said.

鈥淎mericans don鈥檛 realize how conservative Americans are compared to the rest of the world,鈥 she added. 鈥淓verybody wants to talk about how Muslim women are oppressed because they have to cover their heads, and I鈥檓 like, Look at the gender pay gap in America.鈥

The Thing She Never Leaves Home Without

Compression socks. Describing them as essential to her self-care,听she rarely flies without them.听She also loves Allbirds walking shoes and Flight 001听packing cubes.

The Merits of Learning听a Few Local Phrases

In Japan, Nabongo prided herself on her basic language skills. She also speaks French, which has proven useful in her travels.

Everywhere she went, she tried to learn at least how to say hello, goodbye, please, and thank you.

But she wasn鈥檛 always able to communicate, especially in places with different alphabets. Still, Nabongo said,听鈥淚 feel comfortable communicating with people, even if we can鈥檛 speak the same language. In Uzbekistan, we had a great time听even though we couldn鈥檛 speak [the language]. This one woman, we had a conversation. We were not using words either of us understood, but I still understood the meaning of what she was trying to tell me:听that I need to get married very soon, because when I get old I will be very ugly, and that I should have children soon. I was like, OK, thank you.鈥

Her Favorite Airline听

After years on the road, Nabongo鈥檚听favorite airline is Delta, because she says it has听the best frequent-flier program and consistently good customer service.听Now that she usually flies out of Detroit, a Delta hub, her allegiance to the airline is even stronger. She has Diamond Medallion status.

How to Extend a Layover

Nabongo has always been a layover hacker. The key, she says, is to plan.

鈥淟ong layovers are really great鈥 to get a taste of what a country has to offer, she says. 鈥淲hat if you fly somewhere, you鈥檝e spent all this money, and you don鈥檛 love it?鈥

National airlines often offer free extended layovers. Specifically, she recommends airlines like Emirates, Etihad, and Qatar, as well as Iceland Air.

鈥淒uring the booking process, call the airline and just ask them for a free stopover,鈥 said Nabongo, explaining that a stopover is usually one to two days. 鈥淎 lot of airlines allow for it.鈥

Read the Reviews

鈥淚 read reviews, reviews, reviews before I pick anything,鈥 Nabongo said. 鈥淵ou can cross-reference Google Reviews and TripAdvisor.鈥

Find a Good Meal

鈥淭he problem with guides is sometimes they want to take you to 鈥榯he best restaurant鈥 that tourists love,鈥 Nabongo said. 鈥淎nd I鈥檓 like 鈥楴o, I don鈥檛 want to eat where other tourists eat. I want to eat where you 别补迟.鈥欌赌

The Most Difficult Place to Travel

鈥淥h my God. The South Pacific is a logistical nightmare,鈥 she said. 鈥淣o one island-hops in the South Pacific, and it is therefore incredibly expensive to fly, and flights are super infrequent. But there are definitely some gems there. Like, Tonga is phenomenal, swimming with the whales. It was a humpback whale and me. It was just right there.鈥

What鈥檚 Next

After seeing so many local marketers around the world flooded with made-in-China听goods (a notable exception was in Vanuatu, where the government mandates that all goods sold in the main market must be produced on the island), Nabongo wants to create an online store for select, locally produced goods from around the globe.

Calling it the Catch, she plans on launching it this fall. She also wants to sell sustainable goods, like collapsible cups for airport travel.

Nabongo is also galvanized to tackle the world鈥檚 plastic problem, after seeing its effects during her travels. Pointing out that the travel industry is one of the worst culprits, she wants to consult with hotels and airlines to help create solutions to the environmental nightmare.

鈥淭his is a single planet. Forget about national borders,鈥 she said. 鈥淚f you drop a plastic bottle in the water, it can end up anywhere in the world.鈥

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