茂禄驴
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The East–Hail the Tower-Mounted Sno-Gun In the old-time resorts of New England, rocks and ice have gone the way of the wooden ski Skiing in the East used to require focusing more on good living than on good skiing. So what if the snow was rotten, the lines endless, the sky a peculiar dead-gray? There were other things to savor–that horse-drawn sleigh moving through the pink dusk, that lobster bisque in the candlelit dining room, that pale church steeple against the blue-black sky. And, at the very least, Things have changed. New England is no longer the hair shirt of the ski world. Forced to get creative by a series of low-snow years, the top eastern resorts can now almost guarantee good conditions, regardless of the weather. No other region has the East’s technology or vision when it comes to making, sculpting–and marketing–artificial snow. Add to that a major overhaul of STRATTON MOUNTAIN RESORT The Big Picture: Of all the eastern ski areas suffering from Vail envy, none exhibits such obvious symptoms as this swank southern Vermont resort. It has the Tirolean facades, the pedestrian village, the parking garage, the buffed wide-open runs–even the signature clock tower. And it has the ambition. New owners have a grandiose master plan that Unsung Runs: After a snowfall, scout out Upper Middlebrook, an underskied, curvaceous black-diamond run off the summit. Duck Soup, tucked in at the right of the Mid-Mountain Lodge, is a great narrow roller missed by most skiers. R&R: At the base lodge, start at the Bear’s Den, where entertainment ranges from the oom-pahing Stratton Mountain Boys to top regional rock bands. Then head to Mulligan’s in the village for folk rock and nachos. Dancing at the Red Fox, four miles away, gets going after 9 P.M. Where to Bunk: The Stratton Mountain Inn (doubles, $69- $179; 800-777-1700) is a full-service, 125-room hotel at the base village. Its sister property, the Stratton Village Lodge (doubles with kitchenettes, $79-$239; 800-777-1700), is the only ski-in/ski-out facility. Birkenhaus (doubles, $145-$175; 802-297-2000) is a cozy Austrian lodge within Local Wisdom: For advanced-level lessons, skip the clamor of the main base area and go to the small ski-school branch at Sun Bowl; few people know that many of Stratton’s top instructors are stationed there. Stratton Stats: OKEMO MOUNTAIN RESORT The Big Picture: This popular area in southern Vermont is relentlessly pleasant, from its clusters of ski-in/ski-out condos to its new summit lodge and wide, fluffed-and-buffed ski trails. Okemo caters to a well-heeled suburban New York crowd that seems to be looking harder for ways to use the Jacuzzi than for grueling physical challenges. Until Unsung Runs: Try Dream Weaver, an undulating upper-intermediate trail on the South Face with great views of the surrounding mountains. Look also for Double Diamond, a gladed trail that draws less traffic than neighboring Outrage. R&R: For dancing, Sitting Bull Lounge at the base lodge is the newest and hottest night spot; try Savannah’s at the bottom of the access road for rock, blues, and reggae. Where to Bunk: The slopeside Winterplace condominiums, some of which are ski-in/ski-out, have an indoor pool and Jacuzzi (doubles, $235-$385; 800-786-5366). The Best Western Ludlow Colonial motel (doubles, $47-$175; 802-228-8188) is on the resort’s shuttle route. The historic Winchester Inn (doubles, $49-$125, breakfast included; 800-228-9451), Local Wisdom: If you’re staying off the mountain, leave your car where it is and take Okemo’s village shuttle. It’ll drop you right at the ticket booth, sparing you the schlepp from the parking lot to the base lodge. Okemo Stats: KILLINGTON RESORT The Big Picture: This sprawling six-peak area in central Vermont is the East’s largest and hardest-partying resort. While most ski areas are tripping over themselves in pursuit of the keep-it-clean family market, Killington has steadfastly maintained its vertical-chomping, mogul-bashing, beer-chugging gestalt. But don’t get the impression that Unsung Runs: Cut last season, Vertigo, a little-known Skye Peak double-black-diamond trail, is steep, narrow, and only occasionally groomed. Swirl is a skinny, old-time New England trail on Ramshead full of S-curves and funky pitches. Make it your first run after a snowfall. And set to open this season: more than 100 acres of tree-skiing R&R: Here’s the drill: Start at either the Bear Mountain Deli at the base of Bear Mountain (the deck is the place to be on sunny afternoons) or Mahogany Ridge at the Killington Base Lodge. Then head down Killington Road to choose among dancing at the Wobbly Barn, conversation at Charity’s, or $1 drafts at Pepper’s. Where to Bunk: Killington’s finest hotel is The Inn of the Six Mountains (doubles, $89-$229, including breakfast; 800-228-4676), just minutes from the main base area, with 103 rooms and an indoor lap pool; The Summit Lodge (doubles, $45-$80, including breakfast; 802-422-3535), two miles from the mountain, is on the shuttle route and has a skating Local Wisdom: Avoid the mob scene at the main base area by parking at the new Skyeship base station where, on weekends and holidays, the new, heated gondola opens a half-hour earlier than other lifts. Killington Stats: SUGARBUSH RESORT The Big Picture: Things are looking up for this two-mountain resort in northern Vermont. The place has been dripping potential since 1979, when Sugarbush acquired neighboring resort Glen Ellen. Now, thanks to an infusion of capital by new owner Les Otten of Sunday River, the two mountains, known as Sugarbush South and North, will at last be Unsung Runs: When there’s plenty of natural snow, you can’t beat Rumble, a snaky, old-time expert trail that runs through the woods just to the left of Lift Line. Intermediates should scope out Moonshine, an underskied roller sandwiched between the Valley House and Spring Fling chairs. R&R: In the evening, Waitsfield’s hot corner will keep you hopping between the Mad Mountain Tavern and Gallagher’s. Both are big, barnlike dance joints that jump from lift-closing until 2 A.M. If you don’t feel like driving into town, the Back Room in Sugarbush village is a good call for late-night music and dancing. Where to Bunk: The elegant, 46-room Sugarbush Inn (doubles, $69-$117 per person, breakfast included; 800-537-8427) serves afternoon tea, grants guests access to two fitness centers, and provides lift tickets and a free shuttle to the ski area, a half-mile away. Lareau Farm Country Inn (doubles, $60-$125, breakfast included; 800-833-0766), in a Local Wisdom: On powder days, hit Castlerock first, and then head over to the underskied Poma lift on North Lynx Peak. Ski there until about 11, then try Sugarbush North, where you’ll find untracked snow for most of the afternoon. Sugarbush Stats: MAD RIVER GLEN The Big Picture: This idiosyncratic area in one of Vermont’s prettiest valleys runs a 46-year-old single chair as a primary lift, scorns grooming and snowmaking, and operates under the philosophy that, above all else, skiing should build character. To be sure, a lot of characters have been built here, including 67-year-old Betsy Pratt, who after 23 Unsung Runs: Things don’t go unsung at Mad River. Ask anyone in the lift line what’s good and you’ll get a dissertation–maybe even an escort. R&R: Well, you could go home, hang your socks by the fire, and watch them steam. Or you could stop by the Inn at the Mad River Barn or the Hideaway to sit around and complain about the state of the sport. If you want to hear some music and don’t mind mingling with the Sugarbush glitterati, venture a few miles down the road to Waitsfield. Where to Bunk: Tucker Hill Lodge (doubles, $60-$155, some meals included; 800-543-7841) is a sophisticated country inn about four miles away. Just two miles from the ski area, the Inn at the Mad River Barn (doubles, $60-$124, breakfast and dinner included; 800-631-0466), run by the ubiquitous Betsy Pratt, has a steambath and spacious rooms. The Local Wisdom: Get up early for the Milk Run (use your season pass or buy your ticket the day before). The first 25 people who show up at dawn with the ski patrol can ride up the single chair. Mad River Stats: STOWE MOUNTAIN RESORT The Big Picture: Stowe doesn’t win any prizes for slickness or efficiency, yet it remains one of the East’s biggest draws. From its painted clapboard village to its worn, frat-housey base lodge and mythically steep Front Four trails, Stowe instills in visitors what other resorts will never manufacture: a genuine joie de winter. Even the heavily developed six-mile road that connects the town of Stowe to Mt. Mansfield is somehow appealing, with its hodgepodge of inns, ski shops, and restaurants–all bordered by some of New England’s best nordic skiing trails. Stowe is the kind of place where, even if you haven’t been on a sled in years, you’ll find yourself eyeing a virgin white hillside and wondering Unsung Runs: Every summer, a group of vigilante Stowe skiers gets out chainsaws and goes to work on, among others, a 62-year-old trail called The Bruce–the first run ever cut on Mount Mansfield. No longer a part of Stowe’s system, this twisty, narrow, expert trail offers sublime backcountry skiing and a chance to relive history. How to find it? Be R&R: Night skiing has dramatically altered the apr猫s timetable. Miguel’s on the Mountain, a Mexican restaurant/bar in the new Midway Lodge, kicks up around 3:30 P.M. and doesn’t fade until closing time at 10. Down the mountain road is The Matterhorn, a noisy, Jell-O shot kind of place jammed with ski instructors taking advantage of their Where to Bunk: The only slopeside lodging is at The Inn at the Mountain (doubles, $100- $170; 800-253-4754), a hotel and condominium complex that’s a chairlift ride away from the main ski area. A few miles off the access road is Edson Hill Manor (doubles, $100-160; 802-253-7371), which has inn-style rooms, some with fireplaces, on 27 miles of Local Wisdom: Nearly every morning one lift opens at 7:30 (instead of 8); call the snow report (802-253-3600) the night before to find out which one. Stowe Stats: WATERVILLE VALLEY SKI AREA The Big Picture: Just two and a half hours from Boston, Waterville attracts families that enjoy feeling safely ensconced in a private, self-contained club. The resort’s centerpiece is Town Square, a manufactured New England “village” a mile from the base area that’s saved from potential creepiness by the existence of a wonderful, refrigerated Unsung Runs: Ciao, a steep, groomed expert trail, has nearly the same fall line as the heavily used True Grit–without the under-the-lift exhibitionist factor. Tyler, Too, off the North Side double chair, is a Waterville standard but worth checking out for its new manageable mogul field for intermediates. R&R: Stop in at the World Cup Bar & Grill on the third floor of the base lodge to listen to folk guitar and watch the day’s last stragglers come down the hill. Later, there’s a younger crowd at Legends 1291, a cavelike dance club in the Town Square. Where to Bunk: The Golden Eagle Lodge (doubles $89-$199; 800-910-4499) has 139 deluxe suites with panoramic views. The Snowy Owl Lodge (doubles, $139-$169; 800-766-9969) has 83 rooms (many with Jacuzzis) and a game room. Both properties offer guests free midweek access to the resort’s sports center. The Campton Inn (doubles, $50-$70; 603-726-4449) Local Wisdom: Don’t worry about bringing along a nonalpine skier. Waterville has ice skating, 69 miles of nordic trails, and a sports center with a pool and track, as well as tennis, racquetball, and squash courts. Waterville Valley Stats: ATTITASH BEAR PEAK CRANMORE The Big Picture: The most modern and least quirky of the four ski areas in Mount Washington Valley, Attitash was also purchased by Les Otten last year. Improvements kicked in as soon as the deal was sealed. Last season the new Bear Peak area was opened; this year, Otten purchased Cranmore, the country’s oldest ski area, ten miles away. Intermediate Unsung Runs: Wilfred’s Gawm, reopened two seasons ago after years of lying fallow, is a fast cruiser often missed by the masses, conditioned over the years to head left off the Summit triple chair (Wilfred’s is the only trail on the right). White Horse is another underskied trail: From its flanks you’ll get the area’s best views of Mount R&R: For a lot of Attitash skiers, apr猫s means downing a hot chocolate at Ptarmigan’s Pub in the base lodge, then heading back to the condo to put on the pasta water. But you can find dancing and general mayhem at the Red Parka Pub in Glen. If you’re staying in North Conway, you’ll wind up eventually at Horsefeather’s bar. Where to Bunk: On the mountain, Attitash Mountain Village (doubles, $85-$109; 800-862-1600) has motel rooms and one- to three-bedroom condominiums, some with Jacuzzis, and an outdoor skating rink. Two miles east in Glen there’s the Bernerhof Inn (doubles $69- $139, breakfast included; 800-548-8007), with nine antique-filled rooms and one of the Local Wisdom: Don’t forget your yellow-lensed goggles: Because its trails face north and northeast, Attitash is notoriously dark. You’ll get the best light if you start your day on Bear Peak and then work your way over to Attitash. Attitash Stats: SUNDAY RIVER SKI RESORT The Big Picture: Fifteen years of aggressive expansion by wunderkind owner Les Otten has transformed this once-sleepy locals area in western Maine into the quintessential nineties mega-resort: Now there are hundreds of slopeside condos, a vast network of logically laid out supertrails, a slick base hotel, and the requisite microbrewery. This season Unsung Runs: Wildfire, off Lift 9, is an intermediate cruiser often overlooked by skiers automatically heading for the popular Cascades. Experts should scout out Crossbow–ungroomed, uncruisable, unsunny, but unbeatable just after a storm. R&R: It’s a toss-up between the Sunday River Brewing Company at the base of the access road, where you can drink Pyrite Golden and listen to a regional rock band, or the Suds Pub at the Sudbury Inn in Bethel, a wood-paneled tavern where the music is bluesy and the pizza is surprisingly good. Locals prefer the no-frills Backstage, where they can Where to Bunk: In the base village, the deluxe, 230-room Summit Hotel has its own health club (doubles, $109-$310; 800-543-2754). The Snow Cap Lodge and Ski Dorm is an on-mountain ski dorm (bunks, $25-$35; 207-824-7669). The Sudbury Inn (doubles, $75-$185, breakfast included; 207-824-2174), on Bethel’s historic main street, is a restored Victorian Local Wisdom: You want untracked two days after a storm? Ski Last Tango. But instead of staying mostly in the center or on the right with everyone else, watch for your opportunity to duck left about 200 yards down the trail: The cache is in there. Sunday River Stats: SUGARLOAF/USA The Big Picture: This hulking, 4,237-foot, dome-shaped mountain in the heart of northwestern Maine’s timber country has managed to combine superb skiing and a cosmopolitan base village without losing its unique, edge-of-the-world appeal. That pumps Bostonians up during the sometimes arduous four-hour drive–and brings families back year after year. Unsung Runs: Off the King Pine lift is Rip Saw, a narrow, curvy expert run in the uncrowded King Pine Bowl that relies entirely on natural snow. Cruise for more than a mile on the uncrowded West Mountain trail, but not after 3:30 P.M. if you parked elsewhere–you could end up having to take a shuttle back to the base village. R&R: The Bag is a no-nonsense bar where ski instructors and locals gather to recap the day. The Widowmaker is a rowdier scene, where live bands warm up the crowd day and night. Both are in the base village complex. In the evening take a shuttle bus to the new Sugarloaf Brewing Company, a restaurant and brew-pub. Wednesday is reggae night, an Where to Bunk: The base village Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel (doubles, $99-$175; 800-527-9879) has 120 deluxe rooms, including one- to three-bedroom suites with kitchens ($160-$245). For budget slopeside rooms, check out the Sugarloaf Inn Skiers Quarters (doubles, $89-$112, including a ski lesson and use of the health club; 800-843-5623), bare-bones Local Wisdom: Get a jump on the crowds by parking at the under-utilized West Mountain chair (take a right off the access road and follow signs for the golf course), then ride the lift up to Bullwinkle’s mid-mountain restaurant for breakfast. Sugarloaf Stats: |