The greatest open space in New York City may not be on land, but out on the water:听160 square miles make up the coastal waterways of the . Tidal rivers, bays, and ocean beaches stretch across the five boroughs, all connected to the heart of New York City鈥擬anhattan鈥攁nd the harbor that wraps听around it. This is all to say that the city has become听a paddling destination, and for good reason. Thanks to legislation such as the , agencies like the听Department of Parks and Recreation, and the efforts of stewardship groups, including the , the harbor waters are the cleanest they have been in 100 years. The once-dilapidated waterfront left over from past industry continues to morph into new living space and expansive public parks. But听even for expert paddlers, the strong tidal currents, waves, and heavy boat traffic of the Hudson and East Rivers are a challenging environment to navigate.
I鈥檝e lived a short ride from the city most of my life听and have听kayaked the surrounding waters for close to 20 years, yet with how fast the city changes, I听discover听new opportunities every visit. Whether you鈥檙e a Manhattan resident听or a well-versed听coastal paddler searching for your next endeavor, there is something for everyone on the waters surrounding New York City. Here are a few of the favorites I鈥檝e discovered so far.
Test the Waters Below the Brooklyn Bridge
A protected embayment in provides views of the iconic听namesake bridge and lower Manhattan for those who are new to paddling听or just looking to jump in a kayak while visiting the city. Kayaking in Brooklyn Bridge Park, a free program that expects to serve nearly 7,500 participants in 2019, is hosted by the Brooklyn Bridge Park Boathouse听and offered from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends, June through the end of September, and 5:30 to 6:45 p.m on Thursdays, June through August. It鈥檚 one of a handful of similar offerings found at community boathouses scattered around the city. Volunteers provide all equipment and听an introduction to kayaking basics听and float nearby as support boats. Paddlers are allotted a 20-minute session to roam between Pier 1 and Pier 2, sheltered from the currents and boat traffic of the East River beyond. There are no reservations for the free kayaking program, and boats are provided on a first-come, first-served basis, so it鈥檚 best to arrive early for a session. (Thursday offerings are generally less crowded.)
Take in the Midtown Skyline
Viewing the midtown skyline under nightfall is as New York听as it gets. Seeing it from the seat of a kayak on the Hudson River is an experience that Eric Stiller, owner of Manhattan Kayak + SUP, calls听鈥渟urreal.鈥 鈥檚 dock on Pier 84, at the west end of 44th Street, provides a location that makes its guided one-hour听 tour ($65)听accessible to every skill level. To Stiller, a lifelong Manhattan paddler, this is really just the beginning of what the alluring, albeit challenging, paddling the city has to offer. His mission is to progress kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders to handle anything the harbor can roll their way. The reward? Excursions beyond听Pier 84, including trips to the less developed beaches along the New Jersey Palisades to the north and south.听
Paddle the Less Traveled Side of the Island
There are more than 30 public park launch sites for human-powered craft operated by the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation. Head to Muscota Marsh, on the northwest edge of Manhattan, where Spuyten Duyvil Creek connects the Hudson to the Harlem River, to experience a waterway that鈥檚 more听sheltered and sees less commercial boat traffic听than the East or Hudson Rivers.听NYC Parks access points are open from April to December and ($15) to utilize. Paddlers with the skill level听to explore the city鈥檚 tidal waters听should visit the , where they can find educational resources on harbor safety, tides and currents, and a number of paddling groups with indispensable knowledge of the local waterways.
Circumnavigate Manhattan
Circumnavigating the island of Manhattan is the New York City Marathon of paddling. Groups such as the 听and outfitters like Manhattan Kayak + SUP听make occasional pilgrimages around the island. You鈥檒l need proven credentials (recent paddling trips of similar conditions and length, as well as the ability to self-rescue in the event of a capsize)听to partake. The 30-mile outing around the city can take eight hours or more, and the diverse legs of the journey make for an Odysseus-like quest听due to the threat of听barges, wind, waves, and听tides. No matter where you begin, you鈥檒l travel under 20 bridges (21 if you go east of Roosevelt Island), watch the city as the skyline rises and falls through each district, witness the working harbor interweave with a resurging marine environment, and, at times, realize an ironic sense of solitude that makes for the complete Manhattan paddling experience.