A few months ago, I got an email: 鈥淗ey Wes, interested in taking this thing for a spin?鈥 One look at the attached pictures of a built-for-off-roading pickup carrying a luxury camper shell in its bed, and the answer was obvious: 鈥淥nly if I can take it to Mexico and put my dog in it.鈥 Over Easter weekend, I did just that.
But not before inviting my friend Andy. The only other time I鈥檝e used an RV, he and I rented one in San Francisco to go race electric motorcycles. My time with that RV ended when a local sheriff put me in handcuffs inside the paddock at the racetrack. His ended shortly after calling in an emergency SOS to a guy we鈥檇 just met to bring him a change of clothes after trying, and failing, to empty the sewage tank without spilling it all over himself.
While the two of us definitely aren鈥檛 pros with RVs, we are pretty good with vehicles. On a normal day here in Los Angeles, I drive a lifted Land Rover. Andy鈥檚 usual transportation back in Michigan is a school bus; he runs the . So taking someone else鈥檚 six-figure truck off-road in Mexico wasn鈥檛 altogether the worst idea we鈥檝e ever had.
Much better, for instance, than the time Andy decided to .
The truck in question was the new Nissan Titan XD Pro-4X. Powered by a 5.0-liter Cummins turbo diesel, it can tow up to 12,640 pounds and carry nearly 3,000 pounds in the bed. That鈥檚 good, because the camper installed in this one weighs 2,000 pounds before you fill it with drinking water, poop, and cases of beer.
This truck was built by suspension specialist Hellwig to show off its new that鈥檚 self-leveling and ups the capacity of the rear suspension to 2,800 pounds per side, boosting payload while making driving with a huge amount of weight in the bed easier, safer, and smoother.
Hellwig also bolted on a set of , which help keep the truck level in corners even with thousands of pounds in the bed. The company also lifted the truck three inches, fitted it with big all-terrain tires, and wrapped it with steel bumpers and rock rails to protect it off-road. This thing is as capable as it gets if you鈥檙e also trying to live in it.
Andy and I threw in a bunch of food and booze, plus Wiley, and set off for Baja. This is what we learned on the way and how it applies to any vehicle you鈥檇 want to live out of.
Wait, where鈥檚 the romantic part? Well, in addition to our decade-long bromance, Andy I both have new girlfriends, so we invited them too.
Where Should You Go?

Baja has three main attractions: beaches, hot springs, and off-roading. A weekend鈥檚 not much time on an 800-mile long peninsula, but plan your trip right, and you鈥檒l be able to spend time enjoying all three.
Thirty-five miles down a rough dirt road and just 35 miles from the Mexicali border, is an easy a place to start a Baja adventure. There, 14 private campsite are all equipped with their own hot tubs, made from the canyon鈥檚 boulders and fed by a natural hot-spring source. You need to book ahead of time, and you can pick which spring is appropriate for your group size and how much privacy you want. We stayed at El Sol, which has a nice little palapa for shade and views of the surrounding canyon and its palm tree forest.
The springs aren鈥檛 just easy to get to, they鈥檙e also an easy destination for a first trip to Baja. They鈥檙e operated by a ridiculously friendly family, there鈥檚 a gate that gets locked at night, and some limited supplies like ice are available on site, should you forget something essential. Here, you鈥檒l be safe, comfortable, and very perceptibly in Mexico.
But you鈥檒l also have other people around. Want to have the definitive whole-beach-to-yourself Baja experience? You鈥檒l need to head to the west coast. While the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula is warmer and has calmer seas, all the beaches within a day鈥檚 drive are developed with homes, resorts, and organized campgrounds. In contrast, the Pacific beaches are pretty much all undeveloped once you get south of Ensenada. And they require a good 4×4 to reach.
Camping on Baja鈥檚 Beaches

Open up Google Maps and spend some time toggling between map and satellite views. Once you鈥檝e identified a possible beach you want to camp on or near, look for tracks leading to it. If you can get to it, you can camp on it. And you鈥檒l probably have it to yourself. That鈥檚 the whole point of coming down here.
Most of the dirt tracks are relatively simple鈥攏othing that would trouble a stock four-wheel-drive pickup or SUV, or even a decent all-wheel drive crossover like a Subaru. Having said that, even an easy track will be occasionally interrupted by a very difficult obstacle like a steep climb, fallen boulder, or washed-out gulley. The more capable a vehicle you take, the bigger margin of safety you鈥檒l be giving yourself and the more you鈥檒l be able to explore. Also, getting off the track and onto a beach often involves a very steep descent on a loose surface鈥攚hich you鈥檒l need to scale back up on the way out鈥攁nd obviously you鈥檒l also need to tackle the beach鈥檚 loose sand. I wouldn鈥檛 try that in anything but a truly capable 4WD vehicle with at least a locking differential on the rear axle and a good set of all-terrain tires. Make sure you also pack at least a shovel, but preferably a set of as well in case you get stuck in the sand. And remember to park above the high tide line.
Eating Local
The best thing about Mexico is the food. The worst thing about Mexico is sometimes the food can be bad.
For our trips down to Baja, I like to bring most of my groceries along from home and add stuff I catch. On this trip, that was fresh mussels plucked off the ocean rocks, stewed in tequila and lime juice, and served on the beach for Sunday brunch. Last time, it was fresh yellowtail turned into beer-battered tacos. Research seasons and areas ahead of time, and go prepared.
You can also buy fresh fish and shellfish from roadside vendors. Be as careful about smell, texture, and color as you would at home and you should be fine.
Want to try the tacos? You should! The general rule for roadside taco stands is to stop at ones with the longest lines. The length of a stand鈥檚 line is the local equivalent of a Yelp review.
Bringing the Romance

There鈥檚 a lot to like about visiting Baja, but it also requires the right mindset. Down here, you鈥檒l often be a long way from help, so plan to be as self-sufficient as possible. Look at the inevitable roadside tire repairs as a bonding experience with your partner.
At night, the stars are incredible. South of Ensenada, there are no cities or even towns to speak of for hundreds of miles. But being way out on your own can also be intimidating, particularly in a foreign country.
The views from the roads (there are two) are incredible, but there are also few services, and guardrails are sometimes nonexistent, even next to thousand-foot drops. Other traffic and the animals that wander across the road can be unpredictable.
The vast empty spaces are most of Baja鈥檚 appeal but also its biggest challenge. Destinations are a long way apart, and travel here often takes a lot longer than you鈥檇 expect.
For those reasons, Baja welcomes those who are prepared and willing to take chances. Visit with the right mindset and the tools, plus the knowledge to use them, you鈥檒l have a great time. Without them, you鈥檒l be miserable. Is your partner actually adventurous? It鈥檇 be a good idea to figure that out beforehand, but you鈥檒l definitely find out if you go to Baja together.