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Denver, Colorado
Catch a Rockies game (and a fly ball) at Coors Field

Breaking with Convention

The DNC horde has left and Denver is its old relaxed self again. Use it as your launchpad for a weekend in Grand County.

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Denver, Colorado

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Ride

Step one: Land in Denver. Step two: Make like the Democratic National Convention gadflies and get out of town. The 60鈥搈ile drive from downtown Denver to Grand County takes an hour and change; once you roll over Berthoud Pass on Highway 40, you could stop to ride the 28 miles of free鈥搑ide trails at Winter Park ski resort, but you’d do better to head another ten minutes to the town of Fraser, near the Arapaho National Forest. Check in to a private cabin at the Wild Horse Inn (doubles, $245; ). The owner, John Cribari, is a former trainer for Trek, Cannondale, and Gary Fisher who knows all of the 600 marked trails in the area. For an epic, have Cribari send you from the Fraser Valley floor to the High Lonesome Trail (average elevation: 10,000 feet), where you can ride a 30鈥搈ile loop while gasping at the mountain views in every direction (rentals from $50 at Totally Wired Cyclery, in Fraser; 970鈥726鈥6923).

Hike

The Indian Peaks Wilderness is like a satellite office of the Alps that few know about: The 76,000鈥揳cre wilderness stretches north from the Grand County line all the way to Rocky Mountain National Park. For a warm鈥搖p, hike from Junco Lake Trailhead, seven miles north of Fraser, to Columbine Lake on a mellow, six鈥搈ile trek. If you want something a little more brawny, try the 20鈥搈ile, 2,000鈥搗ertical鈥揻oot out鈥揳nd鈥揵ack hike from the Monarch Lake trailhead (about 15 miles from the intersection of U.S. 34 and 40 in Granby) to the incisor鈥搇ike peaks along Lone Eagle Cirque (maps available from Totally Wired Cyclery). From the tops of 12,000鈥揻oot Apache and Navajo peaks鈥攐r anywhere else in the range鈥攜ou’ll feel like you can touch the planes heading to and from Denver.

Heckle

Back in town, catch fair weather鈥攁nd fair-weather fans鈥攁t Coors Field. A miracle like the Rockies’ 2007 World Series run is unlikely this year, so you probably won’t see a game with playoff implications. But you will see next year’s hot pros鈥損ects playing in the National League’s most spectacular natural setting; the peaks on the horizon may trump the on鈥揻ield action. Walk up to the park just before the first pitch and grab sub-$10 seats in the centerfield bleachers with rowdy Coors鈥搒willers (). Post鈥揼ame, check in to the Curtis, about ten blocks from the stadium, a new hotel with a hip鈥揻or鈥揇enver bar and pop鈥揷ulture kitsch in the hallways鈥攖he ninth floor is an homage to big鈥揾air bands (from $180; ). Next up: Platte Street, a quiet retail鈥揳nd鈥搑estaurant ‘hood. Fill up on thin crust at Proto’s Pizzeria Napolatana (), then walk down the street to My Brother’s Bar, an unpretentious den that’s perfect for grousing about the home team (303鈥455鈥9991).

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