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Morning canoe ride on Lake Bunyonyi.
Morning canoe ride on Lake Bunyonyi.

Africa鈥檚 Most Hidden Gem

Mountain gorillas, Pygmy guides, and idyllic lakes are hidden in southwest Uganda. And almost no one is going!

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Mountain gorillas, Pygmy guides, and idyllic lakes are hidden in southwest Uganda. And almost no one is going! Read more.

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Viewed from a hilltop, southwest Uganda聽spreads out in an emerald patchwork of terraced agriculture and primeval forest. To the north and south, in the Bwindi Impenetrable and Mgahinga National Parks, about half the global population of mountain gorillas (792聽at last count)聽call those forests home.聽

In the wet season, elephantine clouds roll in from the Congolese interior聽and the land glows with startling fecundity. In the rarer dry months, the Virungas, central Africa鈥檚 volcanic chain, make great shadows in the haze. At its heart, Lake Bunyonyi, 6,500 feet up, with its 29 hilly islands, is a jewel.聽

Populated with聽a diverse tapestry of hospitable tribal groups, it鈥檚 the sort of special place you might expect to entice hikers and wildlife聽watchers from around the world. But that鈥檚 just the problem: The few people who come to this paradise聽stay for a day or two to see the gorillas and then move on.

Mountain gorilla in Mgahinga National Park.
Mountain gorilla in Mgahinga National Park. (Gorilla Highlands Project)

Miha Logar, a 41-year-old Slovenian transplant, is trying to change that. In 2011, he founded the聽, a private-sector initiative that is working to rebrand Lake Bunyonyi and the surrounding region as a destination to rival the golden savannahs of Kenya and Tanzania,聽Uganda鈥檚 eastern neighbors. In time, Logar hopes the name 鈥淕orilla Highlands鈥澛爓ill become southwest Uganda鈥檚 de facto label. He鈥檚 taken on the responsibility of marketing the region鈥攁 job usually shouldered by a government agency鈥攆rom his straw-roofed hut headquarters on the shore of Lake Bunyonyi. 聽

A self-confessed IT聽nut with an infectious smile bracketed by a cropped goatee, Logar first came to Uganda in 1999 as a student researching the potential of computer technology to transform lives in the developing world. A year later, he moved permanently聽to the country to start the nonprofit , an organization that fosters business in the local community through tourism.聽

From the outset, Edirisa鈥檚 goal has been to nurture cultural self-respect by encouraging alternative ways of earning money in a region that鈥檚聽overreliant on farming. To Logar, tourism seemed like an obvious industry to grow. In 2003, Edirisa opened up a hostel, employing indigenous workers and offering locally led hikes and lake tours鈥攂oth incredible add-ons to the typical gorilla safaris offered in the region.

鈥淚t鈥檚 always the same: two nights, off they go. People come for the gorillas, then leave,鈥 Logar explains. 鈥淲e are trying to position this place as a destination by itself.鈥

In more visible parts of the world, that job would be easy. But here, eight hours by road from the capital of Kampala, farther still from Uganda鈥檚 adventure travel hub of Jinja, remote geography keeps visitor numbers low.

Proximity to the ever-volatile DRC and tragic聽but聽rebounding Rwanda doesn鈥檛 help. Negative perceptions have a tendency to leak over frontiers. The 聽issues warnings only聽for the DRC side of the border, noting聽that Americans traveling in Uganda聽should be aware that tensions have the potential to leak into the area聽in the form of refugees. But locals are proud to say that Lake Bunyonyi, free of bilharzia, crocodiles, and hippos, is one of the safest lakes on the continent.

There鈥檚 evidence that Logar鈥檚 efforts are paying off. Over the past decade, Edirisa鈥檚 hiking and dugout canoeing tours, run not-for-profit and providing employment opportunities for dozens of local people, have become a byword for culturally sensitive travel that goes beyond the guidebooks. Around 300 independent travelers a year, including this writer, have joined the group鈥檚 local guides to explore Lake Bunyonyi鈥檚 islands and the surrounding backcountry.聽

Batwa settlement above Lake Bunyonyi.
Batwa settlement above Lake Bunyonyi. (Gorilla Highlands Project)

鈥淲e鈥檙e not allowed to hunt in our forest, but by guiding tourists we still get benefits from it,鈥 says John Kanusu, whose community of 120 Batwa Pygmies have scratched out a meager聽agricultural livelihood since being displaced, like many of Uganda鈥檚 marginalized Batwa, from their ancestral lands by the government. 鈥淲e never expected that we would earn money from selling decorated walking sticks!鈥 For Kanusu鈥檚 tribe, and countless others living on the margins in southwest Uganda, the Gorilla Highlands Project holds the promise of dignity聽and an essential source of income.聽

Logar鈥檚 other sphere of expertise, multimedia, is also playing its part. To date, disseminating the new brand has owed much to the steady trickle of volunteers鈥攆ilmmakers, photographers, designers鈥攚ho Logar, himself an ex-journalist, has tempted to Bunyonyi. An award-winning Gorilla Highlands聽ebook, currently running to almost 400 pages, becomes more comprehensive every year. A video聽map, featuring what Logar promises will be 鈥渁mazing footage鈥 of the region鈥檚 places and people, is nearing completion.

These tools aside, the project鈥檚 success will rest on word聽of聽mouth: the everyday work of cajoling tour operators, hotels, and government agencies to adopt the Gorilla Highlands聽rubric when discussing southwest Uganda.聽

It鈥檚 an ambitious plan, but with such a bewitching part of the world on his doorstep, the Slovenian has every right to be optimistic. It鈥檚 just a case of spreading the word.

Lake Bunyonyi is located near the town of Kabale, 250 miles southwest of Kampala. To find out more about the region, you can download the for free.

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